Blue Devil And Other Head Gasket Sealers - How They Work, When They MIGHT Work, When They Can't
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- Опубликовано: 20 ноя 2023
- When we determined that our Jeep's 4 Liter was suffering from a blown head gasket, many viewers suggested we try one of the common products advertised to plug and seal that type of damage.
The issue here is that these "mechanic in a can" cures only work on certain specific types of head gasket damage, and even though they are advertised as being permanent, the truth is they only hold under very rare circumstances.
Here's a rundown of how they do the job, and when they have no hope at all.
#bluedevil #usedcars #stopleak #engines
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Come on Unc ! Not another " Wasted my hard earned cash on Snake Oil " video . Fix the Jeep !!
Where did you get the idea I was going to use this stuff???
@@UncleTonysGarage He missed the part about tossing some in to squeeze a little more life or time in the engine before replacing or repairing...
@@UncleTonysGarage If you had a car in good condition but had really high mileage. Could it be a good idea to add a brand thats known to work before you start have any problems?
On my 93 S10 4.3L V6 I thought I had a slight headgasket or radiator leak because my coolant kept getting low. So I figured I'd better add some HG/radiator repair before it got worse.
Turns out it was a bad radiator cap. Allowing some coolant to evaporate off. But the HG/radiator repair #1 didn't hurt anything #2 after adding it, I never got any HG or radiator leak. I drove the truck over 200k until it was rotted out, engine was worn/low compression & transmission was close to dying.
@@matthewronson5218Did you even watch the whole video? Go to 8:30 and listen to what he says
Electrician here. A good preventative method to avoid coolant electrolysis is to measure the coolant DC voltage to ground with the engine running. Over 0.4VDC indicates damaging electrolysis where the coolant needs to changed in iron blocks. 0.15VDC for aluminum.
That’s a very useful tip! Thanks!
A coat hanger can also be used as an antennae
@@funone8716and a bungy cord to hold down the battery!
They sell sacrificial anodes to put in cooling systems
@@Sjmartin666made of what? Zinc? Do you just drop one in the radiator?
My dad put that Blue Devil in my moms 92 Caprice back in 2008 and the car is still on the road today
Rings in a jar for the motor, bands in a can for the transmission and head gaskets in a bottle for the cooling system.
Yep, all snake oil
Mechanic in a can
And fiberglass for holey floor pans, just as bad.
Sodium silicate was also the active ingredient in the "clunker bomb" stuff that was added to the oil to destroy the engines in all the cars taken off the road under the "cash for clunkers" program.
FJB and his clot shot for cars. He was the lead strawman behind that. Now they want to eliminate gas appliances. Idiocracy has no limits.
Ca used a liquid glass down the intake on running engines.
@@Freedomquest08 fjt too! Same up here
In Florida they put it in also
Wow wtf!!!!!
I’ve actually used this sort of oatmeal stuff a couple times before and it worked! They were last ditch attempts to save the engines for folks who really didn’t have the money for a car in the first place; but I continue to check up after the work and they report that the engines are working fine.
We have a 2001 Camry with head gasket sealer, it's been working for a couple years now but the car doesn't get used much or drive far. It would be in the junkyard if it didn't work, the car isn't worth doing a job that big. Cylinder one was getting so much coolant i had to remove the spark plug and let the water out, twenty minutes later it was "fixed." I'd definitely call it a win this time.
It’s more of a band aid for a shotgun wound.
Chris Fix did a really good video showing it CAN work, but depending on how severe the issue is, your fix mileage will vary. Some products also incorporate other "fillers" in to help strengthen the repair.
Ultimately I am with you, if you need a bit more time in your clunker what have you got to lose. But it you can afford to fix it right, do it!
I'm a used car dealer, I'm all for "financially constrained repairs". Having said, after numerous experiences (mostly fails), I won't try liquid head fix. I will use smaller amounts of less aggressive liquid sealant for less severe leaks after certain repairs, mainly intake gaskets on engines with a V configuration, because I've had numerous fresh gaskets leak from surfaces with an imperfect that's just enough to drip over time. But even then, I'm still replacing the gasket, just using the sealant in conjunction. I'd have to find the TSB, but Ford recommends a certain coolant sealant (essentially Prestone brand) in combination to gasket replacements. Having said that, I agree with you, if the car is soon to be scrapped, there's isn't much to lose.
I think that was GM and there Northstar engine and BarsLeak factory use.
@@Scott.Newmaster, you're right, I forgot GM was also recommending Bar's type coolant sealants, so with manufacturers turning to them for minor, low pressure leaks, I suppose they (sealants) do have a place in a mechanic's arsenal.
@@vivillagerFord specified using organic tablets to help small leaks from the factory during the 90s.
Like the transmission fix additive....yeah it puts the friction material back on the clutches, metal back on the steel parts........
Used a similar product to get home in a pinch, from a long road trip. It did the job, but as the coolant still got a bit low for a while, it found air at the top of the heater core and sealed that up really well.
GM dealers used to sell some type of 'stop-leak' in pellet-form (two big pellets in a blister-pac) for any time cooling system work was done on their aluminum engines.
i remember those...looked like a suppository from hell. reminded me of the old joke where the patient finally admits to the doctor he's been swallowing them all this time, and when the doctor slaps his forehead in shock, the patient asks angrily
"well, WTF did you WANT me to do with these suppositories...stick 'em up my ass?"
:)
That stuff is supposed to be edible, made of some kinda nut shell
I am 30 gm mechanic and that only stuff I will us for coolant seeps it does work
From experience here: 4 years ago I had blown head gasket in my 1962 impala Lowrider. Cloud of white smoke out tailpipe, the oil looked like gew and milky all built up on the lid.
Used a bottle of this as last resort Hail Mary attempt. Which was a success. I have been driving it every single day for 4 years since then. And it’s doing better than ever
Tony you know your onions m8. U live in truth logic and authenticity & at the current time those 3 things are desperately DESPERATELY! missing. 30yr mechanic myself & in past 15yr i knew this stuff only worked between water & combustion but didn't i no exactly y. I thought it reacted tp combustion gasses hydro carbons etc. Anyway good lad, keep on keeping on
Electrolysis! What a headache. If you have an issue with it, you might try splicing a short piece of galvanized pipe into a radiator hose. The zinc in the galvanization can act as an anode to help prevent further erosion. YMMV
Tony, how did the old bars leak stop with those black pellets work? When I was a teenager I bought an 83 Mustang with a 3.8 sight unseen. I had to drive it back 3 hours. I got it running and the guys driveway, when I went to fill it up with water I found out the freeze plug in the back of the head was completely missing. So I jammed one of those rubber ones in there and filled it up with water, in a few minutes I found out it had a bad head gasket. So we threw three bottles of the bars with the black pellets in there and started driving home after about 15 minutes the car settled down and actually drove great. So of course 19 year old me got cocky and went to go past someone and blew it all apart all over again. The most amazing thing was when I shut the car off the engine spun backwards.... we put another two bottles in it on the side of the turnpike, and I made it home. When I tore it down I found out cracked the heads.
Similar to any of the various Catalytic convertor cleaning products. They may work to shut the dash light off for a short while but they don't fix the actual problem and the dash light will come back on eventually anyway. There's no free lunch and rarely an 'easy' fix.
Ive thought about trying that liquid head gasket fix on my jeep, but i figure the radiator and the rest of the system would then be forever compromised (probably cause more trouble in the long run).
Always been told not to do this unless the vehicles (or engine) is already on the way to the junkyard.
tried "Stop Fix" once and it went straight to the heater core under the dash. but in the good ol' days, guys would crack a raw egg in or load up with ground black pepper. it would get 'em home, and then to unplug the mess, pour in some laundry detergent and run the engine--that would act like a washing machine and clean out the organix plug. then you had to flush it all out and accomplish the real repair
I've sold a bunch of different products over the years, personally my favorite was Bars Leak (which claim to fame was used to fix a leak in the USS Nauilius which was the first nuclear sub to travel under the North Pole) and K Seal. Bars Leak fixed my $300.00 78 Malibu. Used K Seal on a friend's car that was driven dry. After 2 applications it sealed the head gasket (lasted 6 months before it gave up the ghost--300K motor). It's worth the gamble and K Seal comes with a money back guarantee!😆
Used K seal a few times, it seems to work great.
Used “Thermalweld” on my 4.6 North Star with a blown HG. In 5 min the smoke was gone and have been driving it daily for almost 1 year with no issues so far.
Now, if we could only keep it from leaking oil. heh.
@@vilefly this one is in a bonneville GXP. It only has approx 127k on the odometer. No fluid leaks so far.
@@Dirtypretzleman That sounds like a rare oddity. They put a northstar in a bonnevile? Or is it a custom job?
I've used this stuff three times. Worked two times. I don't know why. I think flushing the radiator helps before using it though. I figure it is worth a try at 75 dollars a shot rather than tearing down the engine without trying.
Worst thing about head gasket in a can is getting it out of the cooling system after you've tried it and it didn't work
Yep, anywhere there's a hot spot, you'll get a clump of it. Once you've torn down an engine that stuff's been used in, you''ll forever cringe at the very sight of the bottle. Also, God help you if any sneaks into the oil.
@sometimesleela5947 Any kind of stop leak is a death sentence for a 6.0 powerstroke the engine suffers from clogged oil coolers by simply no changing the coolant often.
I used k-seal with the metal flecks. It was a water passage on the head gasket. It lasted about 8 months. I rebuilt the motor and nothing was blocked up. It flushed out of the radiator very easily. In My case it bought me some time until I was ready to rebuild the motor.
@DocZoidberg549 I like the silver bars leak in certain applications like a pinhole in a radiator or heater core. I would never use it in an engine that has factory issues with clogging passages.
I LOVE bars leak because it RUINS EVERYTHING
I have used this for my trade in car to a car lot once .
For cooling system leaks including cooling system leaks in head gaskets, heater cores, radiators, cracked heads or blocks, the best stop leak repair I have found is going to sound strange. I use regular evaporated milk that is used for baking. It's cheap and works better than any of the stop leak products sold. It is the only one that is accepted by John Deere for use in their equipment that will not void their warranty. It won't plug anything except for the leaks so won't mess up heater cores so you will still have a working theater too. I've used it in cars and after 7 years it's still working fine.
I never had any luck with this stuff on head gaskets......sometimes you could buy some time on a radiator or intake gasket tho. Personally I liked the old Barr's Stop Leak that looked like brown pellets in a slush.
yup...!...Barr's worked..!..u had 2 follow the directions to the letter..but it workd...!
Rock their world,
Uncle T.
🤙🏻💯🤔
As a kid, I was dubious about these products. I took the time to understand the chemistry, and was shocked to see this stuff can work. I have personally seen the stuff work on minor leaks of the head gasket and even a radiator. I have seen these products stop surprisingly big leaks too. Thing is, most of the time, the folks I know, including myself, have used these as a temporary band-aid till fixing things correctly. In my case a few years ago, I used a bottle of stuff to seal my head gasket. It had to last me just a couple months while I got the stuff ready to do the job right. And, it held up. I am glad that it happened in the summer so I could run straight water for that time. I also see people try to use these as permanent fixes and.... I have yet to see it end well.....
I've seen it work permanently in one instance. When I was a young kid, my father decided to get this old Nissan Rented going again so he could get something with good gas mileage. He used some of the magic sauce, followed the instructions on the bottle, and it's been running without the head gasket leak for over a decade now. The engine has never been dug into.
There ya go buddy. Did you read that story? It’ll change your thought process. Been driving my 62 impala for 5 years since putting this in my car. Never driven better
Good info! I generally stay away from the "Liquid Mechanic" or "Head gasket in a can" type of stuff. It's usually better to just fix the problem the right way and be done with it. Sometimes that gunk will work, but cause other issues, such as clogging up the radiator, etc.
Bullshit. If you flush it veery well, not a fake flush and follow the advices well, you can save over a thousand $. Have done it to old cars and trucks. Dont make a poor family junk their cars or get more in debt with crappy lies. They work for over 10k if you are not stupid and step on gas. My jeep has it for 8,000 miles, no coolant used yet. No more steam from exhaust either.
I tried a radiator stop leak and it worked for eleven years and approximately 80k miles. I don’t think I’d try head gasket stop leak
This stuff has made me so much money over the years lol.
Interesting , Thank You . As to towing with the Cherokee , When I was farming I towed 10,000 lbs (10 Miles) even with 220,000 miles
Hey Tony,
Tim here, I've used it b4, and it DID work, but I knew I didn't have a break between 2 cyl......you know how it will be.....GREAT vid of explaining how this elixir works, Joe shmoe got no idea.....nice way to try to educate!!!.....keep us normal needs posted!!!....PEACE!!
as pt barnum says, there is a sucker born every minute!
Great for those overly warm heater cores too!!
yep, my very first car I ever owned was a scam covered-up with that from a private seller. Didn't do too bad. Got a used engine and found a decent mechanic to replace it cheap. Learned a lesson.
I was in retail auto parts and the sales rep for products like this explained exactly like you did....same idea with air conditioning stop leak....
The real question to ask is not will it fix the issue, but will these additives cause damage elsewhere. Professional mechanics tend not to use stop leak unless it's a factory additive (read: Cadillac), because we've dealt with the aftermath. Some of the good (bad) ones are: fix a flat, A/C leak sealer (which gums up refrigerant recovery equipment), engine flush, etc. Tony, you should mention the 2000-2001 Jeep 4.0 COP engine that is known for cracking heads. All the ones I've seen have cracked right below the oil cap in the valve cover.
People don't believe me when I say the xj can tow well, so I'm glad to hear thats what you're going to try. interested to hear your thoughts. I've towed a car long distance with mine, about 4500 pounds total I think. I just kept it out of overdrive, and it handled it just fine at 70 mph. I have a transmission cooler and HD springs. It never got hot and I never had to slow down besides for one large hill. The 4.0 makes peak torque at 3000 rpm, exactly the rpm you sit at doing 70 mph in 3rd. Great at towing for what it is.
Dear Uncle Tony: A while ago I recall a story about the Genesis of the Plymouth Duster. You said that, to accommodate Disc brakes, the front Wheel base was an inch wider than the rear. This, in spite of the fact that it could have been rectified by a readily-available off-the-shelf Mopar rear axle that is one inch wider than the Duster's." It'll bolt right up!" But Mopar elected not to do it for some strange reason! If so, let's do it! .We could have the world' s ONLY Duster with an equal track front and rear. The first one! (might have been Steve Magnante)
Oh, actually it wouldn't be the first. Actually its the best way to put those factory rallye wheels on. But all you really need to do is pick some wider wheels for the rear with more dish and effectively about the same offset inboard. So, yes, staggered setup. Fills those extra wheelwells nicely (Maybe roll the inner fenders a bit if you go nuts, but I ran like 245/60s on my Duster, wasn't too radical but looked and ran right, and does a perfectly fine job of increasing your track in the rear, basically. )
Another fix that's even easier: wider tires and wheels on the back with the standard back spacing on the wheels.
I have always looked at the Duster rear end like a free from the factory narrowed rear end.
@@clembob8004 (That's basically what I was saying if I was unclear. :) )
@@OllamhDrab Yep, you're right. I was actually replying to the original thread (about changing axles) and I must have accidentally replied to your post instead.
Used CRC Heagasket Repair as a hail mary on our beater 2006 Honda Pilot. Was burning up a gallon of coolant every couple hundred miles. Has held for over a year put several thousand miles on it since then no more coolant loss.
How many miles was on the car when head gasket started leaking???
@@michaelbrinks8089 like 286k something like that. It's in the 290s now.
You're the best Tony! I've been a subscriber for a while cause I immediately noticed you're old school tricks of the trade and "forgotten" knowledge upon stumbling on your channel, but as the new owner of an '84 Dodge B250 van with an old 318 LA and a 2bbl I'm scouring your uploads for all the info I can gather to keep this big bitch running mint and roasting the tires lol. I'm a GM guy and have a '99 Firebird but I fell in love with Mopar with my old 1994 B2500 van and desperately needed another small block Chrysler in my life so I bought this rust free (in New England!) van a few days ago for a song and dance, less than a grand...
I did blue devil on a old Subaru. Was steaming out the exhaust, dropped the exhaust and a cracked exhaust port about a 1" with a drip . Did blue devil and saw that Subaru on the road for years after.
Put some of that in my 4.0 when I had a leaky radiator and while it worked for a few months, it eventually gunked up the radiator so bad the motor would overheat under load. Had to replace the radiator, but by that point I did it myself and it was a great learning experience
With dissimilar metals you also get expansion creep [because aluminum and cast iron expand at vastly different rates] which shears off any paper/fiber/silicone/teflon material eventually.
Had an Austin American that left a London fog behind it but ran fine otherwise.I mean this was an insane amount of steam. No water in the oil, no water in the cylinders, no residue in the radiator and we could not figure out what it was. Turned out the water jacket had a crack in it above the exhaust valve in the head and the exhaust gas was flashing the coolant into steam. We flushed the cooling system and put some sodium silicate in and ran it. Magically the fog began to disappear right before our eyes....LOL
I used that stuff in my 1997 bmw 328i after over heating it. The head ended up being cracked between the coolant jacket and intake valve and it would hold for a year or So, I beat the crap out of that car every day too. It would eventually fail and I’d put more in the coolant and it was good for another year. Got me by for like 3 years till I eventually swapped a rebuilt engine in it.
Most times liquid sealers work like "Bondo" applied over rust. May work for a while but the underlying deterioration will continue. Better to perform a proper permanent repair rather than that band-aid type approach. Many old-timers used to carry a vial of pepper for emergency temporary stoppage of minor engine and radiator coolant leaks. Too much would cause clogging and overheating. Again, better to perform a proper permanent repair.
K1500; small water leak at cylinder head. "Steel seal" (cost $100) has worked for the past 10 years and still going. (Thanks Scotty Kilmer)
I got some green head gasket stuff and, to my shock and awe, it ACTUALLY WORKED!!!
AND ITS STILL working!!!
Can't remember the name of it, but its in a slime green round bottle with a weird radiator-cap shaped lid.
Admittedly, the kind of head gasket issue you have, NOTHING but a new head gasket [and maybe some milling of the head to flatten it, and the deck as well] will fix that.
What a cool guy and resource of useful knowledge! Thanks, I had no idea how that worked, assumed it didn't and did the proper repair.
I'd gone my whole life never seeing one of these products work until I was introduced to K-Seal and saw it work the first few times in a row but nothing is gonna save a blow where you've got it.
K-Seal is really good at sealing up GM truck radiators where the crimps onto the plastic tank leak and not messing anything up just being in there
I fixed my Nissan 720 Ute engine here in Oz back in the 90s to get me through until I could pull the alloy head - the block was cast iron. It worked so well I just bought another bottle of it and carried plenty of water if it let go again. It did many months later and I treated it again. Went for much longer, like a year. In the end I just kept renewing it every time it would overheat. I sold it on cheaply in the end - it had done its duty well.
I have seen some of those head gasket sealers lock up the engine.
If I go to the trouble of draining the cooling system, I would just replace the head gasket. Nothing I hate more than wasting my time, and doing it again, just get it done right the first time.
I used some of that kind of stuff once. I was just trying to get a few miles out of my 2.0L Pinto to make sure I liked the car. It kept the coolant from burning while the engine was running, but it was still getting into the oil. Once I pulled the engine, I found a crack in the number one cylinder right behind the water pump.
You liked a Pinto?
Something wrong with you
2 years ago I put K-Seal in a 02 ford escort that had a cracked head on cylinder number 1 and had the guy drive the car because following the directions on the can didn't fix it after running 20 minutes but him driving it back and forth to where he worked at which was 24 miles both ways fixed the crack and he is still running the car 2 years later with no cooling issues, so I recommend K-Seal
I had a Saturn that was pissing a stream out the back of the motor. Drained it, filled it with water and the gasket fix(eagle1 or eagle something) I watched it slow more and more till finally it stopped. Drain the fluid left the hoses off overnight and drove that car 15k then sold it to my brother. The repair outlasted the suspension on that car.
“Mechanic ina bottle”😂 Great info and video thank you!
This stuff just saved my stepsons pos 305 plow truck.
New engine next spring.
It works.
Not a good repair
But a repair none the less.
Blue devil is by far the best temporary stop leak product on the market. I bought a bottle of hydraulic stop leak 4 years ago to hoping to fix an old hydraulic pump on a 50 year old tractor. Hasn't leaked a drop sense. Best $30 I've ever spent. I also used it in an old 3 ton craftsman car jack that was leaking down under load. It's still holding strong too.
The company I'm with has a whole fleet of late 90s early 2000s Ford's. Unfortunately with aluminum heads that definitely don't hold up like the 300 inline 6s we used to have. I do most of the repairs on them and we use blue devil yellow label pretty frequently. It does a great job most of the time. The really cool thing about the blue devil company is they really truly do stand behind the product. Any time we use it and it doesn't work we just fill out the refund form with the receipt and they either refund our money or send us more product.
About to do this on my '66 Cadillac CDV
I've had k seal in my truck with a bad headgasket for like 2 years and I haven't been easy on it. Just a few days ago I dragged a large shed with it. 🤷♂️ So I would say it definitely works.
I used the bars leak on my 5.7 hemi about 15,000 miles ago and it’s still going strong. I was losing coolant and adding about once a week before, haven’t added any since. The instructions had me put it in and run it for 15 minutes. Then turned it off and let it cool and run it again for 15 minutes. Leave it in and drive it
Great information, very interesting!!
Have the same issue with my extension housing/tail shaft bushing. Lift gate started rattling at around 60mph. Pulled the driveshaft out & could clearly see the bushing was out of round at 11 0'clock. My 2WD XJ takes a 38mm (ID) '96 4.0/AW4. There are a few different sizes, so check application first. Consensus states it's because of the left motor mount that wears prematurely & changes the torque geometry down the line. Don't know if this is true, but my left mount "was" shot. Have the bushing & case to extension housing gasket ready to go.
I must be lucky twice. Had a 1971 360 F100. Had some engine fluttering and extra moisture coming out the tail pipe. Put some block and gasket seal in it and after about a week of short drives, straightened right up. Same thing in a 1980 302. Seems good to go.
I used a similar product on my '98 Jeep TJ with a 2.5L. I use an oil catch can with mine and it was filling up with coolant and I was having to dump it every hour while driving on the highway. The stuff I used worked but to me, its only a temporary fix. Lucky for me, I have another 2.5L engine that I am rebuilding due to a broken piston skirt and have been using Your First Engine Job playlist as a guide to help me. My plan is to swap engines and also tear down the 2.5L with the bad head gasket.
Thank you very much for this video and that helpful play list!! I also just hit the subscribe button👍
I'm currently dealing with the aftermath of headgasket sealer on my 03 Nissan.
Previous owner didn't maintain the car and overheated it and blew a head gasket. They poured head gasket sealer in (not sure what brand) and drove it until they sold it to me with a broken off spark plug in the head. I repaired the plug and then blew the head gasket again 2000 miles later.
Long story short:
EVERY PART OF THE COOLING SYSTEM was damaged in some way. (Block, head, and radiator full of concrete-like sealer, all rubber parts swelled and degraded).
I'm replacing all hoses, thermostat, waterpump, the radiator and I dissasembled the block to chip away all the sealer and then sent it off the be hot tanked at a machine shop (engine is getting rebuilt because they also didn't change the oil on time).
There might be some brands that actually do the job without destroying everything, but I definitely have my doubts after this.
I had a ford 300 straight six that i over heated & cracked the head. It would go down a cylinder & run choppy & just blow white smoke that would fill a entire walmart parking lot! 😅!! But i didnt have the money to get a head to fix at the moment so i bought some of that stuff. I was able to drive it another two yrs on that cracked head with that stuff! It would sometimes break open & it would run choppy for a few miles & blow white smoke but after some run time it would seal itself back up & clear up & then run on all 6 again. It got me by! I did eventually buy a head from a junk yard for $100 bucks & change it. Still runs today. Over 250k miles! Loose as a goose! I did have to change timing gears at one point. But never a rebuild to date.
Happy thanks giving to you all
Thank you for the tutorial .
I've never been a fan of these "snake oil" things. A friend recently asked what I thought of Seafoam and I told him that I've heard both good and bad but honestly, I've never tried it.
On the other hand, many years ago (back in the early 90s), my dad had a 78(?) 3/4 ton Dodge cargo van. The 318 had God knows how many miles on it and had developed a slight rattle on cold starts, as well as a flickering "oil" light at warm idle. It really wasn't worth rebuilding the engine but, a can of Engine Restorer (from NAPA) and a bottle of Slick 50 (remember that stuff?!?), along with an oil/filter change gave him 2 more years of daily service from the old van. I only used them that one time and, I'm not saying that either one or both "fixed" it but, they certainly didn't hurt anything. I actually expected the engine to grenade within a few more weeks but, the van went to the junkyard still running pretty well. Northwest Ohio rust is what finally took it.
ty for that knowledge! i am looking forward to wwatch your xj build
I have a 2000 and most likely have a head gasket issue too. Burns alot of coolant. Would you recommend doing the blue devil hack?????
Sodium silicate was used as an additive to cemenatious grout to rapidly set up the grout to stop leaking dams and such...
I used to drive in demolition derbies. One night unloaded a car and a fresh radiator sprung a pretty good leak. Couple pinches of copenhagen later and she held water until the front stub went sky high.
I remember as kid my dad using stuff called Bars Leaks. It was this liquid with pellets made up of coconut husk from memory. It always fascinated me watching the liquid go from chocolate brown to white when water hit it.
13 Escape small head gasket leak, coolent to cyl, small puff of white smoke occasionally!
Blue devil worked!! traded it in the next week😂
HG replacement isn't difficult on a pushrod motor. The overlooked 2.5 four is a good motor
Nice! I did not know about the tailshaft vibration fix.
We used to stop at McDonalds and toss a packet or two of complementary pepper if we had a coolant leak, usually from a radiator tube joint.
In my situation with a cadillac 4.6 it did not work but it was blown a long time before I got it. Love the vids
The old Caddy 4100 Hook & Tow motor had it added from the factory because GM decided to skimp on the gaskets.
I Had a friend with a 2000 GMC Denali with a small but steady external leak (water) and he needed to get home to Michigan from Phx. I used the very brand your showing and followed the instructions VERY CAREFULLY and it worked!!! He got home to Michigan with no problem. But it's certainly not a long term fix. Would I use it in one of my vehicles? No!! I would have rather my friend bought a plane ticket! But hey, whom am I to judge?
Electrolysis can't happen with proper coolant, because the coolant corrodes the metals to protect them. Just change the coolant if it's gone bad.
Hey Uncle Tony
There is a business in Australia called Liquid Intelligence.
The break between the cylinders that the head gasket repair won’t fix.
Peter from LI has a product which fills that gap and then repairs it.
Did mine more than two years ago, still going strong and it’s a 2.8 turbo deisel Delica 👌🏽👌🏽👌🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
The blue devil one is the best it’s the only one I’ve seen work long term. But it has be the one that requires you to drain coolant and remove thermostat there are 2 formulas. My friend’s daughter(16 years old)first car a little Nissan blew the head gasket. I blue deviled it and she drove it through college no problems.
Not sure why anyone would say "try blue devil in there" to you. As you are the type of guy that could easily take apart an engine and put it together again.
Good video. I especially liked the Turkish prison reference. Don't hear that one very often.
A time you're exactly right about everything you said about the Blue table except I believe it has ceramic dust, yes I've used it last 2 years but not on a compression the compression leak 🤠🚩
You are the best thank you so much.
My experience YES it did work. 98 expedition and 97 cobra. Better the prep better the outcome. Remove thermo, flush LOTS of fresh water thru engine while idling. Then let engine cool overnight. THEN add product add water , idle 45 min. Replace thermo. 8k miles and cobra 6k redline no probs.
I "fixed" a BAD head gasket leak on a turbo Volvo with Blue Devil. I consider it preventative maintenance in a Subaru, every cooling system flush lol.
Tony I've worked on many of these 99 to 01 XJ's... Almost all of them that fail between 3 & 4 is due to a bad 0331 head casting. This is likely a cracked head, look it up.
Interesting but what Tony has failed to share is that these can’o’fix options wreak havoc on the rest of your cooling system and your for sure gonna be in deep if you choose this route.
Great information!!
My dad bought a really nice Cadillac sedan deville, early 2000s model for $500 and it had the notorious North Star head gasket problem, he dumped some mystery juice in and drove it for about a year before it showed signs of letting loose
Instead of Blue Devil, use the Bar's product. It's compatible with all antifreeze and the thermostat doesn't need to be removed either. It's a no-brainer to try. There are RUclipsrs who claim it has lasted for over 30,000 miles. And you can leave it in the cooling system.
The vibration could be a worn chain in the transfer case
AWESOME vid UT. MOPAR 4 EVER.