@@soarkraft This is great news! I ended up ordering direct as local could only get the combo. I have zero reason to print multicolor. Everything will be primed and hand finished.
Thx for the good info. With my Bambu Lab X1 Carbon I am printing with eSun LW-PLA. I use your Config. files.V3. I think the print result is just sufficient. When this print roll runs out I will try PLA-Aero. Hopefully with a better result. Greetings from the small country of Belgium
Im on my 3rd roll of Bambu Aero... it seams better than eSun, actually white, and about the same price. The eSun stuff is out of stock everywhere... same with the new SainSmart stuff. Colorfabb stuff is hard to get in the US and pricey.
I got my A1 last week and i LOVE IT. I've also got the smooth cool plate and also their liquid glue. I got vision miner nano, but I haven't tried it yet. Ill try the new orca 1.9 👍
Thank you very much for another great video. I already have a P1S, purchased the files for the Juicy DS and printed it. But didn't found the time for building it 😞
It is good... it has a little bit more z-wobble with the foaming materials than the coreyXY style like the P1P if you print at the exactly the same speeds, but you can slow it down a little, a little slower accel, and get the same quality. Great for TPU too... which prints a little slower.
I have not tried it, but all the other foaming LW-PLA material seam to work, and I have tried Bambu Aero, ColorFabb, ESun and SainSmart. They all use about the same settings.
Hey! Thanks for the great work! Any plans on adding modifications to support fuselages with popular flight controllers (speedybee f405 wing or Mateks) and/or fpv systems (o3 or walksnail)?
I have a couple of new models coming that are bigger, have more room and some other power options. I have a year old DJI air setup and it fits easily... but I don't know about the other flight controllers. There are too many combinations to design to fit one... and then in a month there is something new. The FPV systems are fun, but I get woozy and fly better without... also adds another level of complexity to my joy of just just flying on the slope.... which does not allow power planes or Lipo batteries.
@@soarkraftHey! Thanks for the answer. Any plans on making them compatible with existing wings? For the flight controller, kinda "standard" for airplanes are Matek Wing or speedybee f405 wing. Most of other FCs for airplanes have similar dimensions/connections. Also, great thing is to have gps/compass for Return to Home functionality in case of signal/orientation loss. For FPV systems common practice is to have a canopy, that can be modified for different fpv systems.
@@OlegBovykin Sure, you can use that... you can do whatever you want. These controllers are tiny and will fit within the fuse. More space in models coming.
Work, yes absolutely. The bed slingers without vibration compensation can do a good job printing fly-able parts, and Prusa Slicer works well. I have three Sidewinder X1/X2s, they were my GO-TO printers for the past 5 years, Blue tape is an easy solution for the glass surface, sticks awesome during printing and alcohol removes. Stiff PLA parts give the best quality. The foaming LW-PLA wiggles if you have any z-wobble and gives you the layer mismatch as the part gets taller, this is the only issue I had. Slowing printing down helps too. There are several videos on youtube on how to check for this z-wobble and make it better... but the new gen printers fix this automatically. You can add Klipper to a Sidewinder and get this improvement, but it is a project.
Hey, I'm a bit lost. I'm using eSun PLA-LW for drones and have a P1S printer. which config file should I use? i'm a bit of a beginner, especially with this filament. i hope youll answer 🙏🙏🙏
Hi. I'm a newbie to 3D print but have purchased an Bambulab A1 printer. I imported the lightweight config files from the website into the orca slicer using "file>import" but when I select user presets from the dropdown lists, they are not there. So, what am I doing wrong?
Did you import the A1 specific configuration files? they are a little farther down the page. If you did then make sure you are using the .4mm nozzle config for the printer. These .json files should import into ether Bambu Studio or Orca Slicer... and they are sort of shared so you only have to do it in one program or the other and they will show up in both.
No, my designs are optimized for performance… specifically airfoil shape and wing strength / weight. Vase mode is easy for CAD and slicer, but limiting for many, many reasons. I love the method, very simple way around the problem, but the aerospace engineer in me wouldn’t settle for the results…. will need to do a video about it.
@@soarkraft I was just curious mostly because of additional model weight compared to vase mode parts. However, consider that there are some tricks to simulate multiple walls and infill with vase mode (but its a bit tricky to optimize such model in CAD). I think YT-er "Nerys" made video about that.
I will have to look that up. I know you can split a part and do multiple setups in the slicer... still don't get what I want, and another level of difficulty. I do all of the heavy work in CAD so my files are easy to print.... import - slice - print... anything more than that is too much for most users.
Advice for removing a part that has stuck too well to a printbed. After flexing the bed in both directions try twisting the part off instead of pulling it off. the twisting should hopefully shear the part off of the bed. I think the part should be stronger in that direction.
Sort of, this is single wall printing and this foaming PLA is only 25% the stiffness of regular PLA. It does not handle twisting much either, will buckle instead... which would make the part unusable. Simple layer separation is easily fixed with CA (glue).... but now that we can print soo much faster I usually just print another.
Cool. I waited a long time to get into 3d printing. Picking up a1 today I hope. Not a fan of the multi feed, but that is all that is in stock.
It’s a good printer and can print nice quality parts fast, especially with PLA. I was also surprised at how well it prints TPU.
@@soarkraft This is great news! I ended up ordering direct as local could only get the combo. I have zero reason to print multicolor. Everything will be primed and hand finished.
Great tips and strategies. Happy printing makes for happy flying.
I have a p1S convert, and an A1 mini.. it IS nice to have another fast accurate printer.. that just works 😊
im sooo exited seeing the edf version :)
Thanks, happy flying
Thx for the good info. With my Bambu Lab X1 Carbon I am printing with eSun LW-PLA. I use your Config. files.V3. I think the print result is just sufficient. When this print roll runs out I will try PLA-Aero. Hopefully with a better result.
Greetings from the small country of Belgium
Im on my 3rd roll of Bambu Aero... it seams better than eSun, actually white, and about the same price. The eSun stuff is out of stock everywhere... same with the new SainSmart stuff. Colorfabb stuff is hard to get in the US and pricey.
@@soarkraftAre you using bambu labs factory settings for aero?
BTW I didn't watch the video. Just seen some comments.
I got my A1 last week and i LOVE IT. I've also got the smooth cool plate and also their liquid glue. I got vision miner nano, but I haven't tried it yet.
Ill try the new orca 1.9 👍
Like that build plate aligning tip.
I would love to see a longer wing for thermals! Plz think about it 🙏
I hope so too !!!
Awesome! This was exactly what I was looking for.
I kinda want to start printing planes now
Thank you very much for another great video. I already have a P1S, purchased the files for the Juicy DS and printed it. But didn't found the time for building it 😞
Thats OK, now that it only takes ~ 23 hours to print usually have to wait for the servos and carbon to deliver anyway.
@@soarkraft I already printed it some weeks ago. But my own RUclips Channel takes to much time 🥴
@@SchattenPV funny how that happens
Is the Mini A1 any good for this kind of thing? It's so cheap now that it's inside my budget.
It is good... it has a little bit more z-wobble with the foaming materials than the coreyXY style like the P1P if you print at the exactly the same speeds, but you can slow it down a little, a little slower accel, and get the same quality. Great for TPU too... which prints a little slower.
Will a scaled down version of the parts work on a Bambu a1 mini??
I absolutely can't stand the cold plate, I'm going to have to try again with your style of glue use
Is it possible to use 3D Lab Print LW-PLA on this printer?
I have not tried it, but all the other foaming LW-PLA material seam to work, and I have tried Bambu Aero, ColorFabb, ESun and SainSmart. They all use about the same settings.
Hey! Thanks for the great work! Any plans on adding modifications to support fuselages with popular flight controllers (speedybee f405 wing or Mateks) and/or fpv systems (o3 or walksnail)?
I have a couple of new models coming that are bigger, have more room and some other power options. I have a year old DJI air setup and it fits easily... but I don't know about the other flight controllers. There are too many combinations to design to fit one... and then in a month there is something new. The FPV systems are fun, but I get woozy and fly better without... also adds another level of complexity to my joy of just just flying on the slope.... which does not allow power planes or Lipo batteries.
@@soarkraftHey! Thanks for the answer. Any plans on making them compatible with existing wings? For the flight controller, kinda "standard" for airplanes are Matek Wing or speedybee f405 wing. Most of other FCs for airplanes have similar dimensions/connections. Also, great thing is to have gps/compass for Return to Home functionality in case of signal/orientation loss. For FPV systems common practice is to have a canopy, that can be modified for different fpv systems.
@@OlegBovykin Sure, you can use that... you can do whatever you want. These controllers are tiny and will fit within the fuse. More space in models coming.
Hi, what sort of range can I expect from your models. Also is the fuselage made from PLA or LW -PLA
Another A1 owner here trying to dial in LW PLA, thank you for the videos which have been very informative
Glad to help, first layer sticking vs heat deforming was the biggest hassle.
Would the Artillery sw2 work with the Prusa slicer and give good results in LWPLA?
Work, yes absolutely. The bed slingers without vibration compensation can do a good job printing fly-able parts, and Prusa Slicer works well. I have three Sidewinder X1/X2s, they were my GO-TO printers for the past 5 years, Blue tape is an easy solution for the glass surface, sticks awesome during printing and alcohol removes. Stiff PLA parts give the best quality. The foaming LW-PLA wiggles if you have any z-wobble and gives you the layer mismatch as the part gets taller, this is the only issue I had. Slowing printing down helps too. There are several videos on youtube on how to check for this z-wobble and make it better... but the new gen printers fix this automatically. You can add Klipper to a Sidewinder and get this improvement, but it is a project.
Hey, I'm a bit lost. I'm using eSun PLA-LW for drones and have a P1S printer. which config file should I use? i'm a bit of a beginner, especially with this filament. i hope youll answer 🙏🙏🙏
Hi. I'm a newbie to 3D print but have purchased an Bambulab A1 printer.
I imported the lightweight config files from the website into the orca slicer using "file>import" but when I select user presets from the dropdown lists, they are not there.
So, what am I doing wrong?
Did you import the A1 specific configuration files? they are a little farther down the page. If you did then make sure you are using the .4mm nozzle config for the printer. These .json files should import into ether Bambu Studio or Orca Slicer... and they are sort of shared so you only have to do it in one program or the other and they will show up in both.
Wayne, you want a second opinion on whether or not you are crazy?? :) Miss the slope....
Are your models optimized for vase mode? If not, what is the reason
No, my designs are optimized for performance… specifically airfoil shape and wing strength / weight. Vase mode is easy for CAD and slicer, but limiting for many, many reasons. I love the method, very simple way around the problem, but the aerospace engineer in me wouldn’t settle for the results…. will need to do a video about it.
@@soarkraft I was just curious mostly because of additional model weight compared to vase mode parts.
However, consider that there are some tricks to simulate multiple walls and infill with vase mode (but its a bit tricky to optimize such model in CAD). I think YT-er "Nerys" made video about that.
I will have to look that up. I know you can split a part and do multiple setups in the slicer... still don't get what I want, and another level of difficulty. I do all of the heavy work in CAD so my files are easy to print.... import - slice - print... anything more than that is too much for most users.
Advice for removing a part that has stuck too well to a printbed. After flexing the bed in both directions try twisting the part off instead of pulling it off. the twisting should hopefully shear the part off of the bed. I think the part should be stronger in that direction.
Sort of, this is single wall printing and this foaming PLA is only 25% the stiffness of regular PLA. It does not handle twisting much either, will buckle instead... which would make the part unusable. Simple layer separation is easily fixed with CA (glue).... but now that we can print soo much faster I usually just print another.
I don't need anything on bed for pla or lw-pla..