Using Bambu X1C to Print Planes - SoarKraft Models - good crashes at the end
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- Опубликовано: 27 июл 2024
- This video is about 3D printing the SoarKraft radio controlled gliders and powered gliders with a Bambu Lab X1C.
More information available at:
soarkraft.com/
This hobby and 3D printing is continuing to change at a fast pace with new ideas, machines and software. This video shows using the Bambu Lab X1C to print light weight designed airplane parts to build a flyable radio controlled glider. Our designs and our CAD modeling is different from other files available, but the same ideas apply. This printer is new and has some qualities that some users may question... well we try to answer some of those questions.
Find test parts and slicer config files and settings here:
soarkraft.com/pages/how-to-an...
Thanks to Ruben Bicknell for the video:
Hand catching his SoarKraft Pika made with LWPLA
Also flown - Juicy DS printed in regular PLA - a speeds over 100 mph... and yes it is a glider, no motor, dynamic soaring at Jones Pass and Mt Zion.
Thanks for watching - please support the channel by liking / subscribing.
If you really want to help please buy the 3D printing files for these parts.
Or click on the material links below.
I am not sponsored by any of them, but I do get a Amazon Associate link credit if you buy them.
Prusa Slicer - www.prusa3d.com/page/prusasli...
Bambu Studio - bambulab.com/en/download/studio
Orca Slicer - github.com/SoftFever/OrcaSlicer
Cura Slicer - ultimaker.com/software/ultima...
Simplify3D Slicer - www.simplify3d.com/software/f...
PLA - amzn.to/3CDjGlH
eSun Foaming LW-PLA - amzn.to/3ScKrTE
ColorFabb LW-PLA - www.matterhackers.com/
Polymaker LW-PLA - amzn.to/3TyeSoF
00:00 Intro
01:14 Bambu Who?
02:22 Q & A
05:18 X1C Setup
06:24 Working with Bambu Studio Slicer
08:03 Hooked
08:42 Print - Fly - Crash - Repeat
#prusaslicer
#3dprinted
#rcairplane 
Хобби
You are doing what I have only dreamed of doing.
It only takes time, effort and money
Thank you so much. This was the video I've been looking for. Just ordered a P1S, cant wait for arrival 😂
I've got a P1S coming in tomorrow and want to try some DIY RC planes. Thanks for the video! I'll keep that site favorited, $15 isn't bad for a tested design.
Would love to see more Videos from you!!!
More to come!
Great video! I just got a P1S and even though I'm loving it (amazing prints, scary fast and beautiful quality), I'm having a hard time with slicer settings to use with Eclipson models. This will really help me. Thanks!
Great videos mate. U have a funny way of acting suspicious naturally 😂😂
I enjoyed the video, Thanks...... I have been trying to decide between a Prusa MK4 and the Bambu P1s and I have watched most of the review videos out there, but this is the first one using a Bambu to print plane parts. And since printing planes is my reason for a 3d printer, this was helpful. You have some nice designed planes I am looking forward to.
Glad I could help.
There have been certain non rc related prints that I wasn't quite sure about using with Bambu Studio, and sending through the cloud, so this is all really great info. I found this channel because of my struggle with active foaming lw pla. Going to try some of your settings and see if I can clean any of my thin wall wing prints up. I came from using S3D for the last 5 years, and cannot get used to the UI of Cura. I don't know why. Hoping to get it figured out between Orca and S3D now. I am still kind of shocked that Bambu Studio doesn't have some sort of "prime after retract" function yet, while Orca seems to have it. Anywho, thank you for your explanations and print settings. Definitely going to be watching this channel like a hawk.
Can't wait to try that out on my X1C. Could you show what your settings are for printing PLA and the other materials? Would really appreciate it. Subbed....
I love my P1P but I'm still getting better prints with Simplify3D than I do with Bambu Studio...at least for single walled airplane parts.
Trying a slicer comparison now with the foaming stuff, and been testing the pre-foamed Polymaker stuff.... which works well. So far I do like the Simplify3D results for printing a single part.... multiple parts it is terrible... but you don't usually do that with the foaming stuff. Been hoping to get the pre-foamed stuff to handle multiple part printing, less oozing, but have not figured it out yet.
Many thanks !!! Now i want Babulab :( !!! ;)
Well Bambu Lab did just announce there A1 product (update - 180 x 180 x 180 is not big enough.. bummer) an inexpensive bed slinger with similar speed and control capabilities.... may not be able to print Nylon or PC perfect, but I bet it can do a good job with printing foaming LW-PLA faster... and has to be better than an Ender3. Not available yet.....
@@soarkraftdon't forget that it has smaller print dimensions. Your parts are to big for it!
If you don't want to spend so much money, perhaps a P1P or P1S is also a very good choice
o'well... when I was looking on the Bambu website when it first posted they did not have the spec sheet up... 180 x 180 x 180 is too small. I was hoping it was the same size as the others, now I dont want one.
While I like the Bambu products - keep in mind bambu did not invent any of the awesomeness at work here - and you can get it without the hype or markup.
Very cool! I have a very similar printer (Qidi X-Plus 3) that runs Klipper - I am going to give fast printing a shot! Looking at your config it looks like ~ 200 mm/s should work!
I am wondering why you say "avoid crossing perimeters" is crucial. My parts seem to turn out better with that setting off than with it on. I would like to understand the reason it should be better.
Depends on what you are printing.
The short answer is retractions and Cura 5.0+ lack of a working ooz control.
My designs have multi thicknesses, 1 2 and 3 wall in the same part, and use retractions rather than "vase mode" style designs.... prints the whole outer wing surface in one extrude, then goes back and prints the internals. Did this to get the best airfoil print possible, clean skins without crisscross "trip" lines or sag from how the "vase mode" parts print. Up to Cura 4.13 the "combing mode" worked great... Prusa / Bambu / Orca /Simplify3D can all do much better, clean parts with retractions even with the oozy foaming materials.
Oh I see that makes sense - also I bet it works better when you are printing several parts on one plate - thanks @@soarkraft! I am printing a Pika right now!
Great video, I am printing your test part now on my P1P although I did have to slightly modify your config files as both did not list the P1P as a compatible printer so those user presets did not show up. I am printing it with different filaments - Bambu PLA Matte, ColorFabb LW-PLA (active foaming), PolyLite LW-PLA (pre-foamed) and 3dLabPrint's PolyLight 1.0 LW-PLA (active foaming). Do you have any expected weights for this part ?
Great video. What setting are you using to prevent stringing between the multiple parts printing in one print session? Are you not using vase mode?
Multi-part prints are with PLA, PLA+, PETG, PC, etc. that are not stringy... I do one part at a time with the foaming materials for best quality. I am not using vase mode, all of my parts use retractions. Vase mode parts are a really cool way of designing parts, but have some major limitations.
Your video is very interesting ! I own a heavily modified Ender 3: Duet2wifi board, direct drive extruder, trianglelab hotend... But I can't seem to achieve something flawless !
Banding, stringing, rough surfaces... The Bambu Lab X1C seems to be the solution... But for the price, it doesn't seem so perfect... I don't care about speed, by printing more slowly and with very fine layers, can we achieve something truly flawless where the layers are invisible ?
Have you used the Bambu Aero PLA, the Bambu web site say`s that it is a foaming pla. I found your comments on the X1C interesting and am now considering if I should try and find the money to buy one for myself.
I have a roll of the Aero coming, but I am guessing it is similar to the others. I have been printing a bunch of eSun material... seams to be working well, but you can still only print one part at a time and slower. If you are wanting to print just this foaming stuff all the time the P1P or some of the lesser Klipper based machines might be less money for similar performance, but if you just want something that works without building or fiddling the X1C is pretty nice.
Any update on using PLA Aero? Been a few weeks since this comment and curious if you have noticed any difference in the profile setting required... Enjoyed the video! @@soarkraft
I've just started printing with Bambu Aero. I haven't done much yet but I can say that I've been using Colorfabb for the last couple of years and it is different. I haven't worked out if it's a good or bad thing but it's softer and more flexible on the roll and feels less brittle. It prints nicely but I'll have to do more printing to be definitive. I'm looking forward to an entire project. @@Hotrodclint
Curious as well..@@Hotrodclint
@SoarKraft hey is it possible to print the model 30% larger? that you get a span of 1600mm? or would that increase the profile of the wing too much? LG
You can try whatever you want, but the design does not work like that... everything is precisely engineered to fit at 1 - 1 scale. There are carbon rods for support and servo pockets.... you can try it.
I tried printing some parts in LW PLA - and I am wondering about the live hinges on flaps and ailerons - do they hold up?
They do fine, better in LW-PLA than in most other materials, but can be reinforced. They do break when you crash.
The regular PLA is more brittle, but I print and fly these hinges with regular PLA too... without reinforcement.
Reinforcement is easy... I use silicone or "Quick Grip" (like quick dry silicone), spread a thin layer on each side - run a finger along hinge line - let it dry for 15 min - flex both ways - let it dry ~ 4 hr - fly. I have a video about it. Good for crash repair. AND way easier than printing a bunch of additional parts like a lot of the other planes use.... too me.... and I designed what I wanted, I am my most important user.
The silicone hinges are very durable. Check out my videos of my Juicy DS plane... 100+ mph with the same hinges.
There are a few printers that can easily outperform the x1c but not at the same ease of use and price point.
For a similar price there are a few diy printers that (if built correctly) can go way faster, for example the VZbot. If you are willing to spend a lot more there are industrial machines that don’t even compare.
those crashes (-8