Awesome video. I might just have to try making an LW PLA pika now. I printed a pika in ASA and it flies so well. The fact that a total beginner fixed wing pilot like myself was able to do 3 flights, about 5m each, with 2 crashes and 1 “landing”, and still go home with a flying plane, is a testament to the great design. Also fun fact about the design, if you print two whole planes in different colors, you can mix and match the parts to create two planes with cool inverse color schemes 😂
Having struggled with foaming PLA (Aero), I gave your configs a try and got much nicer parts. Your infill at 15% seemed a bit heavy so I experimented all the way down to 3% gyroid and the part still seems strong. Your config has 2 walls but you stated 3. I tried both and didn't see much of a different in strength, only weight. Thanks for the helpful information! I had almost given up on foaming PLA.
This is a great video, I have been using Orca to slice my planes, I'm learning little by little and every bit helps! So many questions and so many settings but I'm making headway. I've been looking at your planes and will end up with one, it will have to be motorized as I have no terrain for slope sorers. Thanks so much for sharing with us!
Being new to 3d printing 'I'm still in the "experimenting level" so tried using your settings to print your test piece with varying results. Firstly, I printed it using a low budget PLA filament with the Orca slicer and then again using the Bambulab studio slicer. (I have the Bambulab A1 printer) Both prints were of low quality and would require a lot of sanding but I expected that result due to the budget filament and both weighed exactly the same at 8 grams. I them carried out the same experiment using Esun e-PLA Lite filament and while the quality was somewhat better, I was surprised to learn they weighed exactly the same 8 grams as the cheap PLA. I don't know what I'm doing wrong but the end result was confusing.
ASA-AERO from QIDI? I have seen LW-ASA from ColorFabb. Have not tried ether. I do not have issues with the LW-PLA and sun or heat with the white material, and it prints easily and I can get to 45% weight of regular PLA without too much trouble. It prints similarly (according to the info) but mentions warping... probably needs a good enclosure to print and it should be fine.
Why such a high sparse infill? Surely 100% is way to high? Most of the planes I have printed have been between 3% to 5% cubic subdivision. Is it just the way your planes are designed? The wall direction trick is awesome, going to update orca right now lol, very cool addition
Some planes are designed for "vase mode" or 0 infill, mine are not. I use single and multiple walls and some small solid sections in the same part... "vase mode" cant do that... and adding any infill to these "vase mode" parts total hoses the reason for "vase mode" and adds travel paths that are completely undefined by the design. There are many other reasons I did what I did, but this is one of them
thank you soo much i order some polymaker lw pla and could get it to work until i watch your video 3 time and finally got it thank.I don"ttruly understand it yet,but when i do order planes
No, these are not "vase mode" designed parts. There are retractions and travel moves, but the parts are designed to reduce the amount of travel. With the right setting the perimeter is printed in one long extrusion then the internal structures is printed second, including a second wall on the front 1/8 of cord to the leading edge for a strong d-box structure and a perfect airfoil.... or at least that is my intension. There is oozing and defects occasionally, but controlling it.
Foaming One way to tell if from the recommended temperatures. Foaming is 230-270 pre-foamed is 190-220 Foaming - best results at 250..... ~45% the weight of regular PLA different temp = more / less foaming Pre-foamed is always 68%ish the weight of regular PLA regardless of temp... also Prefoamed usually comes in 800g spool - another way to tell. Overture Prefoamed LW-PLA is the only one I have found that sells a 820g roll.... its about as much as a roll can hold.
I bought last year a Soarkraft model but only comes the stl files which is impossible to make minor changes. I would like to reduce the diameter of the carbon tube of the wings but it is impossible.
Impossible? you did not try hard enough. In the slicer you can use modifiers... or add a secondary part with the diameter you want. And there are other ways depending on what you want to customize... do a search, there are lots of videos. Customization is up to you, but its not impossible.
Thanks so much for your reply. I had the .config files downloaded for the X1C but your reply prompted me to watch the video once again when I was able to see my error. I've found your other videos very helpful as well. Your style of teaching is commendable and I wish other RUclipsrs would offer the same kind of support to their subscribers.
@@ericmac564 yes, and even with an X1C it is very finicky... and not able to get below .6 flow ratio, and brittle .... and I have tried the other brands, same...
I miss slope flying. California has many issues but great slope flying.
Power Pods are fun too.
Thanks for the guidance wayne - I'll give it a try
Awesome video. I might just have to try making an LW PLA pika now.
I printed a pika in ASA and it flies so well. The fact that a total beginner fixed wing pilot like myself was able to do 3 flights, about 5m each, with 2 crashes and 1 “landing”, and still go home with a flying plane, is a testament to the great design.
Also fun fact about the design, if you print two whole planes in different colors, you can mix and match the parts to create two planes with cool inverse color schemes 😂
Having struggled with foaming PLA (Aero), I gave your configs a try and got much nicer parts. Your infill at 15% seemed a bit heavy so I experimented all the way down to 3% gyroid and the part still seems strong. Your config has 2 walls but you stated 3. I tried both and didn't see much of a different in strength, only weight. Thanks for the helpful information! I had almost given up on foaming PLA.
This is a great video, I have been using Orca to slice my planes, I'm learning little by little and every bit helps! So many questions and so many settings but I'm making headway. I've been looking at your planes and will end up with one, it will have to be motorized as I have no terrain for slope sorers. Thanks so much for sharing with us!
There is a power pod
Being new to 3d printing 'I'm still in the "experimenting level" so tried using your settings to print your test piece with varying results.
Firstly, I printed it using a low budget PLA filament with the Orca slicer and then again using the Bambulab studio slicer. (I have the Bambulab A1 printer)
Both prints were of low quality and would require a lot of sanding but I expected that result due to the budget filament and both weighed exactly the same at 8 grams.
I them carried out the same experiment using Esun e-PLA Lite filament and while the quality was somewhat better, I was surprised to learn they weighed exactly the same 8 grams as the cheap PLA.
I don't know what I'm doing wrong but the end result was confusing.
This is Awesome just came across this. Have to ask what's the differences between LW-PLA and ASA-AERO
ASA-AERO from QIDI? I have seen LW-ASA from ColorFabb. Have not tried ether. I do not have issues with the LW-PLA and sun or heat with the white material, and it prints easily and I can get to 45% weight of regular PLA without too much trouble. It prints similarly (according to the info) but mentions warping... probably needs a good enclosure to print and it should be fine.
Why such a high sparse infill? Surely 100% is way to high? Most of the planes I have printed have been between 3% to 5% cubic subdivision. Is it just the way your planes are designed? The wall direction trick is awesome, going to update orca right now lol, very cool addition
Some planes are designed for "vase mode" or 0 infill, mine are not. I use single and multiple walls and some small solid sections in the same part... "vase mode" cant do that... and adding any infill to these "vase mode" parts total hoses the reason for "vase mode" and adds travel paths that are completely undefined by the design. There are many other reasons I did what I did, but this is one of them
thank you soo much i order some polymaker lw pla and could get it to work until i watch your video 3 time and finally got it thank.I don"ttruly understand it yet,but when i do order planes
So is this printed using vase mode or not? I am slightly confused. Thanks.
No, these are not "vase mode" designed parts. There are retractions and travel moves, but the parts are designed to reduce the amount of travel. With the right setting the perimeter is printed in one long extrusion then the internal structures is printed second, including a second wall on the front 1/8 of cord to the leading edge for a strong d-box structure and a perfect airfoil.... or at least that is my intension. There is oozing and defects occasionally, but controlling it.
@@soarkraft ok great stuff thank you 🙏
Do these settings work with plane print planes? Their profiles are for cura using an mk3 or at least they used to be. Never did like cura.
Plane Print planes can only be printed with Cura.... otherwise they fly upside down ;)
@@soarkraft Yeah. I tried the big bobber from plane print using their cura settings and only ended up wasting a lot of filament.
Would Bambu pla-aero be considered foaming or pre-foamed?
Foaming
One way to tell if from the recommended temperatures.
Foaming is 230-270
pre-foamed is 190-220
Foaming - best results at 250..... ~45% the weight of regular PLA
different temp = more / less foaming
Pre-foamed is always 68%ish the weight of regular PLA regardless of temp...
also
Prefoamed usually comes in 800g spool - another way to tell. Overture Prefoamed LW-PLA is the only one I have found that sells a 820g roll.... its about as much as a roll can hold.
@@soarkraft thank you very much for this information. Very useful to know.
Any experience with ColorFab's LW-PLA HT?
not yet but on the list, LW-ASA also... rolls of both coming
@@soarkraft Well then, you've earned my subscription....
I bought last year a Soarkraft model but only comes the stl files which is impossible to make minor changes. I would like to reduce the diameter of the carbon tube of the wings but it is impossible.
Impossible? you did not try hard enough. In the slicer you can use modifiers... or add a secondary part with the diameter you want. And there are other ways depending on what you want to customize... do a search, there are lots of videos. Customization is up to you, but its not impossible.
@@soarkraft for me it would be easier to work with step files that I can easily modify on Fusion 360.
Can I use these setting for a .6 nozzle
You can try anything you want, but these setting were tested with a .4mm nozzle
Titan Dynamics have very diffirent print settings from yours. Especially, infill is mostly 3%, and 5-8% for fuselage.
I imported the config files but they're not appearing.
Maybe I'm using an updated version of the Orca slicer.
Anyone?
Do you have a bambu lab X1C or P1S printer selected... and it probably has to be the .4mm nozzle? Otherwise they will not show up.
Thanks so much for your reply.
I had the .config files downloaded for the X1C but your reply prompted me to watch the video once again when I was able to see my error.
I've found your other videos very helpful as well.
Your style of teaching is commendable and I wish other RUclipsrs would offer the same kind of support to their subscribers.
Have you printed with Bambu asa aero? I just started testing with it. Very finicky.
@@ericmac564 yes, and even with an X1C it is very finicky... and not able to get below .6 flow ratio, and brittle .... and I have tried the other brands, same...