When modifying an entire part like at 11:20 it's not necessary to add a cube modifier. Just ensure only that part is highlighted in the object menu and adjust the settings as normal.
Hello, thank you for the great video. I just wanted to point out an issue with wall loops. When you set different wall quantities for general and modifier areas within the same object, the slicer adds extra walls at the intersection faces, as shown at 11:00. This can make the part more fragile in most cases. For example, at 11:00, the affected part is more fragile than before because the walls are stuck back-to-back. You might even be able to break it with your fingers..
I've been using Orcaslicer for a short time, I still have a lot to learn, this use of modifiers is awesome! it will be very useful to me!! thank you from Florence Italy 😊🤗
Very nice video Sir, and one that I learned something from and I'm ALWAYS appreciative of that. I am already applying a couple of your suggestions as I type this on a couple of projects that are humming away...but the seed you have now planted in my brain is; how to apply the specific infill density to specific LAYERS of the overall print. I'll be working on that but if you have a suggestion, I'm all ears.....
Awesome question! I just tried this with success. I loaded a test part into Orca slicer. A simple cylinder, added a modifier. Adjusted the size of the modifier so that it covered the diameter of the cylinder and was about 25% of the cylinders height. I then moved the modifier up in the Z direction. I set my infill for the print at 15%, went to "Process" and selected Objects. Click the modifier and set the infill density. I set it to 50%. Sliced and viewed and I had 15% infill until it reached the height of the modifier then it switched to 50% infill. When it reached the end of the modifier it went back to 15% infill. Short version, just move the modifier up to the layers you want to modify. I hope this helps! Let me know how it works out! Thanks for watching!
@@pushingplastic7445 Howdy pard', I appreciate that, and most glad it was a question that rated a solution. I'm happy that you found an answer so quickly and obliged for your efforts. What you did was kinda along the lines of what I was thinking, to add some additional strength at pivot/stress points without necessarily having to maintain the high infill % throughout the print. I will be experimenting with this almost immediately for a couple of projects I'm working on of late. Now all I need to do is figure out how to utilize 'Selective Cuts' in Orca like it is used in Bambu Slicer (right click to remove specific selections on the side of the Cut you don't want to be Cut or removed permanently). The right-click option does not work (at least for me) in Orca unfortunately and the use of 'Negative' cuts seems to not allow saving the 'cut' portion...or maybe at my age I'm just missin' the snake bite... ; - )
@@gordonrain7152 See, you can teach us old dog new tricks! I'll have to do some research on Selective Cuts before answering this one!! Thanks for the kind words!!
Orca is a great slicer, you can do a lot with it! It might be confusing at first, but after a while it becomes second nature! Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching!
I've been using Orca Slicer, though still falling back to Cura since I feel comfortable there. The modifiers you demonstrate here would be quite useful to me. I'm going to experiment with them. Thank you!
It never hurts to use more than one slicer! I get better results on my K1 Max with Orca. I still use Cura for my other printers, well except for the Bambu.
Thank you for the informative video. I've never used Orca Slicer only Cura. I need to learn it because I just got a QIDI Q1 Pro 1 and Orca Slicer is the recommended slicer. Thank you again for the tips.
Thanks for the tips, very useful. Been using Orca Slicer now for a few months and really like it. Don’t yet know how I’d use the tips, but I’m sure they’ll find a place in my 3D printing. Got a new subscriber! ❤
Awesome! Thank you for subscribing! I do videos for Cura, Creality Print and Orca Slicers as well other 3D Printing related topics! I hope to hold your interest!
Dude you just solved an issue I have been trying to deal with for 2 weeks now. These mounting holes I was printing were way too small and I didnt want to print the model at 50% infill just so the infill can hit the screw hole. Added a modifier around the 4 holes added extra walls and its printing right now Thank you
Thank you for this tip. It came at the right time. I’m printing some gifts and I needed to remove some of the texts in some areas of the print. It would have been so much more work for me. Thank you.
I've been having the issue where if I'm using a modifier at 11:05 the parts are now separate and causing noticeable lines. Any info on how to avoid that? I've checked on Cura and I don't seem to see the same issue where it causes the object to be separated.
I believe it is wall loop mismatch. Under strength, I changed wall loops to the same number (3 in my case) for all objects and also global. It appears when they have a different wall loop count they get treated as a separate object within the part and draw a wall around the modifier.
@@lloydfulcer what is even the point of a modifier if I can't locally modify the wall loop counts, lol. I understand I can change infill without causing issues but wall count is much more important for strength.
@@KToMmi agreed. I used a modifier to increase infill density for greater strength at a corner. It generated the “box” because I had different wall count. This actually generated a weak point that the part broke at, rather than strengthening it. I know there’s a ton of code in the background to make this work out automagically, so hopefully it’s on somebody’s list for future improvements.
I'm not sure I'm understanding your request but I'm going to make a guess so please, correct me if I'm wrong. If you bring a model into orca and it's not laying flat, use the "Lay on face" feature. In the top menu, it's the icon that looks like rotate but has a line below it. Select the model you want to lay flat, then click the Lay on face tool. You'll see some odd shaped semi-transparent shapes on the faces of the model. Click on the one that you want to lay flat on plate. I hope this helps and again, if this isn't what you are looking for, let me know. Good luck!
@@pushingplastic7445 yea I know about that I was asking after using that and the item not 100% flat on the bed I use fusion and i can find anything wrong it’s flat so I use the same face to lay down on the bed but it seem to be printing in the air for some parts of the model My question is is there a way to correct that other than cut in orca ? I tried cut and it worked but I was wondering if there is a better way than cut in orca
@@pushingplastic7445 yes because it was the whole part and not a section of the part like the others. But any way I do like yours videos of settings and improvements of the print
How would you go about adding Fuzzy skin to certain areas of the geometry while leaving other areas alone for mating with other parts? I have tried everything I could think of, but fuzzy skin always gets applied to the surface even after using a modifier or a negative.
"...adding Fuzzy skin to certain areas of the geometry while leaving other areas alone..." SUPERB question pard'! I too would like to figure this out and discover the answer...
@@pushingplastic7445 thanks for putting it out, I got my first printer last week and if it wasn’t for channels like this that printer would be burning at the bottom of a fire pit hahah
@@pushingplastic7445 just an Ender 3v3 KE. Got it 40% off so I thought it was worth taking the leap. I’m over that hump of things not quite working and everything is dialed in and printing fantastic. So now it’s the fun part of making more than just benchys and cubes 😜
Occasionally, for a quick, no frills print, I'll still use Creality Print. But I mostly use Orca Slicer. I can control more aspects of the print with Orca, like variable layer height, the supports and things like that. I hope that answers your question, if not, just reply and I'll try to do my best to answer it. Thanks for watching!
Interesting question. I've never tried, but I wouldn't think that it would work. Having said that, since I've never tried it I couldn't be 100% sure that it wouldn't work. I'm going to have to try this at some point! Thanks for watching!
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
When modifying an entire part like at 11:20 it's not necessary to add a cube modifier. Just ensure only that part is highlighted in the object menu and adjust the settings as normal.
Thank you sir. That saved me about 150 g filament and 4 hours of runtime on one Print and will more in future.
Nice!!!! Glad to hear it helped! Thanks for watching!
Hello, thank you for the great video. I just wanted to point out an issue with wall loops. When you set different wall quantities for general and modifier areas within the same object, the slicer adds extra walls at the intersection faces, as shown at 11:00. This can make the part more fragile in most cases. For example, at 11:00, the affected part is more fragile than before because the walls are stuck back-to-back. You might even be able to break it with your fingers..
I also noticed this moment. Is there a way to reflow/merge the outer walls as it was previously?
I've been using Orcaslicer for a short time, I still have a lot to learn, this use of modifiers is awesome! it will be very useful to me!! thank you from Florence Italy 😊🤗
Thank you! Glad it helped. I need to get back to doing more Orca Slicer videos! Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching!
This video is absolutely amazing, informative, slow for the tough learners: and every step was shown. Keep up the amazing work my friend.
THANKS for your wisdom , may all your printing be WONDERFUL !
Very nice video Sir, and one that I learned something from and I'm ALWAYS appreciative of that. I am already applying a couple of your suggestions as I type this on a couple of projects that are humming away...but the seed you have now planted in my brain is; how to apply the specific infill density to specific LAYERS of the overall print. I'll be working on that but if you have a suggestion, I'm all ears.....
Awesome question! I just tried this with success. I loaded a test part into Orca slicer. A simple cylinder, added a modifier. Adjusted the size of the modifier so that it covered the diameter of the cylinder and was about 25% of the cylinders height. I then moved the modifier up in the Z direction. I set my infill for the print at 15%, went to "Process" and selected Objects. Click the modifier and set the infill density. I set it to 50%. Sliced and viewed and I had 15% infill until it reached the height of the modifier then it switched to 50% infill. When it reached the end of the modifier it went back to 15% infill. Short version, just move the modifier up to the layers you want to modify. I hope this helps! Let me know how it works out! Thanks for watching!
@@pushingplastic7445 Howdy pard',
I appreciate that, and most glad it was a question that rated a solution. I'm happy that you found an answer so quickly and obliged for your efforts. What you did was kinda along the lines of what I was thinking, to add some additional strength at pivot/stress points without necessarily having to maintain the high infill % throughout the print. I will be experimenting with this almost immediately for a couple of projects I'm working on of late. Now all I need to do is figure out how to utilize 'Selective Cuts' in Orca like it is used in Bambu Slicer (right click to remove specific selections on the side of the Cut you don't want to be Cut or removed permanently). The right-click option does not work (at least for me) in Orca unfortunately and the use of 'Negative' cuts seems to not allow saving the 'cut' portion...or maybe at my age I'm just missin' the snake bite... ; - )
@@gordonrain7152 See, you can teach us old dog new tricks! I'll have to do some research on Selective Cuts before answering this one!! Thanks for the kind words!!
Very very interesting and valuable. I'm putting it to immediate use. Thanks!
I hope it helps! Thanks for watching!
Great video! Clear and concise. Nicely done. New to 3D printing and just switching from Creality slicer to Orca. New subscriber too! Thank you!
Orca is a great slicer, you can do a lot with it! It might be confusing at first, but after a while it becomes second nature! Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching!
I've been using Orca Slicer, though still falling back to Cura since I feel comfortable there. The modifiers you demonstrate here would be quite useful to me. I'm going to experiment with them. Thank you!
It never hurts to use more than one slicer! I get better results on my K1 Max with Orca. I still use Cura for my other printers, well except for the Bambu.
Thank you for the informative video. I've never used Orca Slicer only Cura. I need to learn it because I just got a QIDI Q1 Pro 1 and Orca Slicer is the recommended slicer. Thank you again for the tips.
It's an awesome slicer with a lot of features packed into it!
Thanks for the tips, very useful. Been using Orca Slicer now for a few months and really like it. Don’t yet know how I’d use the tips, but I’m sure they’ll find a place in my 3D printing. Got a new subscriber! ❤
Awesome! Thank you for subscribing! I do videos for Cura, Creality Print and Orca Slicers as well other 3D Printing related topics! I hope to hold your interest!
Dude you just solved an issue I have been trying to deal with for 2 weeks now. These mounting holes I was printing were way too small and I didnt want to print the model at 50% infill just so the infill can hit the screw hole. Added a modifier around the 4 holes added extra walls and its printing right now
Thank you
Greate tips! Thank you.
What else except the infill and walls the modifiers can do ?!
Great way to strengthen parts in select areas without having to use the setting/settings on all of your print or parts.
It sure does save time and material! Thanks for watching!
@@pushingplastic7445 My plesure and thanks for posting great content!!!
Thank you for this tip. It came at the right time. I’m printing some gifts and I needed to remove some of the texts in some areas of the print. It would have been so much more work for me.
Thank you.
I'm glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
I had no idea this was possible! Like having TinkerCad right in the slicer. Very helpful.
I needed this today. Thank you for your time. :)
Very helpful information!
Tks Sr. for the excelent explanation.
Thanks for the kind words & thanks for watching!
Ty, exactly what i needed.
It's amazing what you can do with the modifiers! Thanks for watching!
I've been having the issue where if I'm using a modifier at 11:05 the parts are now separate and causing noticeable lines. Any info on how to avoid that? I've checked on Cura and I don't seem to see the same issue where it causes the object to be separated.
Same here. Have you found a solution?
I believe it is wall loop mismatch. Under strength, I changed wall loops to the same number (3 in my case) for all objects and also global. It appears when they have a different wall loop count they get treated as a separate object within the part and draw a wall around the modifier.
@@lloydfulcer what is even the point of a modifier if I can't locally modify the wall loop counts, lol. I understand I can change infill without causing issues but wall count is much more important for strength.
@@KToMmi agreed. I used a modifier to increase infill density for greater strength at a corner. It generated the “box” because I had different wall count. This actually generated a weak point that the part broke at, rather than strengthening it. I know there’s a ton of code in the background to make this work out automagically, so hopefully it’s on somebody’s list for future improvements.
Thank you for the information!!!💟
Awesome vid!
Thanks for those kind words and thanks for watching!
can you show us in a video if a part not 100 % flat on the plate how to fix it in orca , thanks
I'm not sure I'm understanding your request but I'm going to make a guess so please, correct me if I'm wrong. If you bring a model into orca and it's not laying flat, use the "Lay on face" feature. In the top menu, it's the icon that looks like rotate but has a line below it. Select the model you want to lay flat, then click the Lay on face tool. You'll see some odd shaped semi-transparent shapes on the faces of the model. Click on the one that you want to lay flat on plate. I hope this helps and again, if this isn't what you are looking for, let me know. Good luck!
@@pushingplastic7445 yea I know about that I was asking after using that and the item not 100% flat on the bed
I use fusion and i can find anything wrong it’s flat so I use the same face to lay down on the bed but it seem to be printing in the air for some parts of the model
My question is is there a way to correct that other than cut in orca ?
I tried cut and it worked but I was wondering if there is a better way than cut in orca
nice it help me a lot, but at 11:45 you didn't had to use modifier just you could do settings as individual part
Could've
@@pushingplastic7445 yes because it was the whole part and not a section of the part like the others.
But any way I do like yours videos of settings and improvements of the print
Wish the Orca had an align to object tool
Very useful, thanks!
Thanks for watching!
Great video! thank you!!
Thanks! Hope it made life easier!! Thanks for watching, it's very much appreciated!
Thanks, you just saved my bacon!
Everything is better with bacon! Thanks for watching!
When removing the text, would it be possible to add different text ?
How would you go about adding Fuzzy skin to certain areas of the geometry while leaving other areas alone for mating with other parts? I have tried everything I could think of, but fuzzy skin always gets applied to the surface even after using a modifier or a negative.
"...adding Fuzzy skin to certain areas of the geometry while leaving other areas alone..." SUPERB question pard'! I too would like to figure this out and discover the answer...
when i do thew modifyer and add walls and infill it shows on the final layer of the print
that's really cool!
It is! Thanks for watching!
@@pushingplastic7445 thanks for putting it out, I got my first printer last week and if it wasn’t for channels like this that printer would be burning at the bottom of a fire pit hahah
@@DrGeta666Nice! What printer did you get?
@@pushingplastic7445 just an Ender 3v3 KE. Got it 40% off so I thought it was worth taking the leap. I’m over that hump of things not quite working and everything is dialed in and printing fantastic. So now it’s the fun part of making more than just benchys and cubes 😜
@@DrGeta666 I wish I would've got that printer! And 40% off! Wow, nice deal!!
Thank You Bill!
Thank you and thanks for watching!!
for your k1max are you exclusively using orca slicer? have you tried comparing a creality print model vs your orca profile?
Occasionally, for a quick, no frills print, I'll still use Creality Print. But I mostly use Orca Slicer. I can control more aspects of the print with Orca, like variable layer height, the supports and things like that. I hope that answers your question, if not, just reply and I'll try to do my best to answer it. Thanks for watching!
Good info!
appreciate you. thanks
THanks for that and thanks for watching!
can you print the first layer (base) with 15% infill, and the rest of the model on spiral mode? it is possible?
Interesting question. I've never tried, but I wouldn't think that it would work. Having said that, since I've never tried it I couldn't be 100% sure that it wouldn't work. I'm going to have to try this at some point! Thanks for watching!
@@pushingplastic7445 thanks for your awesome videos!
@@lucasfernandez3653 Thanks for those kind words and of course for watching!
Works great
That's what I like to hear! Thanks for watching!
Pushing P...plastic. Nice!
Thanks! Those kind words are very much appreciated! Thanks for watching!
Thank You!
THANK YOU SO MUCH