That override feature is one of my favorites in Orca,. It's so useful to tune between different filaments, even on the same brand sometimes colors need that extra tune.
The seam painting got me, now I know what my results have been all over the place, Thanks! I'll be at it awhile with my Ender 3V2 Neo, it has been making things fuzzy.
Thanks for the note. If you're still struggling with stringing, double check a couple of items for the offending filament. I've got a couple of rolls that string with default temps. Dropping temps by 5 or 10 degrees seems to help calm down the fuzz, also if it's a part that has lots of hops/travel moves maybe see if you can turn off z-hop. z-hop typically promotes stringing.
Thank you! Of all the videos I watched to solve my thread and gap problem, your video was the one that helped me the most. I started using Orcaslicer but at the same time I changed the mouthpiece and other things, a big mistake of making many modifications together... I couldn't adjust the retraction because it didn't disable the z-hop. I subscribed to your channel, greetings!
I could not for the life of me figure out where to set it in the filament settings as haven't had to mess with it until I started printing in TPU. Thanks for the assist! Great video.
From my experience, I have to paint it because 'aligned' positions the seam on the left post as a spiral that wraps around while the right post has all the seams in a line.
I'm not sure if you are going to see this question at this point, but first, thank you for the video. My question, however, is at what point you recommend doing this calibration. Should it be before the flow rate? After? Or better yet, is there a best recommended order of operations for all of the recommended calibrations?
Thank you for such short and informative videos. lts always pleasure to watch. Can I ask to explain another topic wich is how to cut big models? There are planty of videos on internet but they all talking about "fat" models like statue. In my case, I modeling a lightbox, that is shalow box with 2 mm wall. How to cut on 2-3 pieces in a way it will most unnoticed on the face. Thanks.
Just rebuilt an ageing cr10s pro v2 with a new 4.2.7 board with a lot of help from Victor Bared's great video but was really struggling the get the stringing under control I run a BMG direct drive (clone) which was producing good quality prints prior to the rebuild. Just ran the retraction test and bingo string cured!! Many thanks for great tips - looks like I will have to go back to school on this new slicer. Are you intending to do a series of Orca yt's
hey man, i did the orca slicer retract calibration and it gave me great results, the stringing was gone after 0.5-.6mm. however, when i try the other stringing calibration models from thingiverse it doesn't give me the same result. if i print a whole model using the setup that was working with the calibration model from orca - it would be fine at the bottom, where the widest part of the cone would be, but at the top - it would string soooo bad, and the stringing looks like silk and not like a "rigid stringing" i've been trying to fix this for a week, can't get great results, please, can you give me any tips?
@@fischer3d "Basic stringing test" by Loohney and "Ultrafast and economical stringing test" by s3sebastian. On the first one the stringing is present throughout the whole model, and on the other one - it only shows at the top 20-30 layers
Do you happen to know if the Bambi studio version of this yes works in reverses? I thought it was a direct copy but of orca but it looks like it does the retraction setting in reverses (starts at highest retraction and ends on lowest). I’m a bit lost
@@fischer3d Thank you for the reply. I re did the test with different settings and it looks to have worked correctly this time? The orca github calibration docs specified to start at 1mm for bowden tube setups but it seems my machine doesn't string between 1mm - 3mm of retraction but will string horribly at anything above that which threw me off because it looked to be working opposite of the documentation. I thought more retraction would leave incomplete seams rather than blobs and stringing?
That does sound a little weird to me. If you're running a bowden setup typically less retraction = more stringing. Are you running too hot? is z-hop distance too much? maybe a couple of other things to look at.
So I’m breaking in a new extruder and the stringing is bad, and when I run this, the stringing gets worse as the retraction increases. Can’t imagine why or how that happens.
strange. This is the second comment i've seen like this in the last couple of days. I'm wondering if there is a bug in the retraction test introduced in one of the latest releases. What version of orca are you running? also... what temp is your nozzle and is z-hop on or off?
Too much retraction could potentially cause under extrusion and clogging. If the filament is retracted too far inside the nozzle for too long you risk the filament cooling a bit and clogging the nozzle. In my opinion, retraction should be looked as reducing pressure in nozzle during travel moves. Since the plastic in the nozzle is already melted you aren't really retracting what's already melted, rather relieving pressure pressure from the feeding filament in the extruder.
hello and thanks for your video, im new at this, a week ago i bought an ender 3 v3 es ,and i am about to quit and sell it, please help me, ive done lots of tests, including this one, and i got the same ammount of strings on every single level, is there anything you can tell me to fix this please.
Gotcha. What are your retraction min/max settings for the test? also, do you have z-hop enabled? You likely want to make sure z-hop is off for that test on that machine.
@@fischer3d i have done two test, first one was . Start - 0 End - 6 with step being 2mm then second test was start - 2 end - 10 with step 2. Had thick stringing on both , z-hop has been set to normal
For everyone with the same Prolem as me: Deactivate Z-Hop in the Filament settings And Deactivate it in the Printer settings. Otherwise it will stay activated
so strange. you're like the 3rd or 4th person this week to mention it. what version of orca are you running? what type of printer? I'm wondering if the latest release has a bug in the test print. conversely, i just reran the test and have 0 stringing even at 0 retraction. my spider-sense says something in the sw is broken.
@@fischer3d latest version and anycubic vyper I'm thinking I might have to clean hotend was happening with bambu studio as well. Thought it was the filament it's MH silk
hmm. ok, please let me know how it goes. i'm looking through the gcode generated by the test to see if i can notice anything. i've noticed orca likes to bump default temps pretty high too while printing. excess heat can contribute to stringing.
I have a Vyper as well, dunno how current the firmware is because we only use an SD card on int instead of connecting it to a computer. Anywho, having a similar issue to this on our printer, with the additional problem that any code I export from Orca will set the printer's hot end temp to 0° unless I preheat the filament, even though I have the temp I want set up in orca itself.
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
That override feature is one of my favorites in Orca,. It's so useful to tune between different filaments, even on the same brand sometimes colors need that extra tune.
THANK YOU!!!! Ive watched a couple other calibration videos for orca and they did not mention the seam or turing off zhop. THUMBS UP!!!
Very helpful, short and sweet, and to the point. Much appreciated.
The seam painting got me, now I know what my results have been all over the place, Thanks! I'll be at it awhile with my Ender 3V2 Neo, it has been making things fuzzy.
Thanks for the note. If you're still struggling with stringing, double check a couple of items for the offending filament. I've got a couple of rolls that string with default temps. Dropping temps by 5 or 10 degrees seems to help calm down the fuzz, also if it's a part that has lots of hops/travel moves maybe see if you can turn off z-hop. z-hop typically promotes stringing.
Thank you! Of all the videos I watched to solve my thread and gap problem, your video was the one that helped me the most. I started using Orcaslicer but at the same time I changed the mouthpiece and other things, a big mistake of making many modifications together... I couldn't adjust the retraction because it didn't disable the z-hop. I subscribed to your channel, greetings!
Thanks so much for your tutorials! You explain everything very clearly. Definitely helping me get up to speed with Orca Slicer, thanks!
Well I was using the retraction test completely wrong. Thanks! Way more useful now!
I could not for the life of me figure out where to set it in the filament settings as haven't had to mess with it until I started printing in TPU. Thanks for the assist! Great video.
Holy cow! "Seam painting?!?" I had no idea. I will be using that!
you telling me lol things i did not know
really useful, going through your videos on orca now, thanks for them
Thanks! - One thing to mention is that this menu is disabled if your orca slicer is busy printing. :D
On this test it is easier to just set "seam position" to "aligned" as this will make the seams face each other, no need to paint it.
From my experience, I have to paint it because 'aligned' positions the seam on the left post as a spiral that wraps around while the right post has all the seams in a line.
This is the way
Its deffiently helps. Thanks a bunch. Have a great week.
Exactly what I wanted. Thank you!!
this was incredibly helpful Thank you.
I'm not sure if you are going to see this question at this point, but first, thank you for the video. My question, however, is at what point you recommend doing this calibration. Should it be before the flow rate? After? Or better yet, is there a best recommended order of operations for all of the recommended calibrations?
So this test is only to check for strings between the two towers? It has nothing to do with the print quality of the actual towers?
What about speed adjusting it ?
Thank you for such short and informative videos. lts always pleasure to watch.
Can I ask to explain another topic wich is how to cut big models?
There are planty of videos on internet but they all talking about "fat" models like statue.
In my case, I modeling a lightbox, that is shalow box with 2 mm wall. How to cut on 2-3 pieces in a way it will most unnoticed on the face.
Thanks.
Sure thing. I'll give it a shot. What program are you using to model the lightbox?
@@fischer3d Fusion.
drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Xt8gCDDlG00_lFFUksgebDY9zKYpp_7B?usp=sharing
Great. Thanks. What model printer do you have?
@@fischer3d :) I dont have it yet. Dreaming about Bamboo lab x1c. :)
You dont need to mark manually seams positions, just select "align" and is exactly the same.
What if my results were opposite? I have little to no stringing on the bottom of the towers but a lot up top.
Then it's probably good to go
mine was stringing at 0.8 and turned out that 0 was the setting with zero stringing. What does that mean? PETGHF on P1S with Hardened 0.4 Hotend.
Just rebuilt an ageing cr10s pro v2 with a new 4.2.7 board with a lot of help from Victor Bared's great video but was really struggling the get the stringing under control I run a BMG direct drive (clone) which was producing good quality prints prior to the rebuild. Just ran the retraction test and bingo string cured!! Many thanks for great tips - looks like I will have to go back to school on this new slicer. Are you intending to do a series of Orca yt's
Glad it helped. I've got several on orca out there already. I have a playlist for orca under my channel if you're looking for more.
I didn’t notice that at the time I replied I will go take a look thanks again
Nice one. Direct and no fuss.. Cheers
The retraction count is missing in that slicer and this could be a problem.
tky its a really good video!!!
if possible to use .8 Nozzle? if possible Please upload video how to do full configuration .8 Nozzle setup
hey man, i did the orca slicer retract calibration and it gave me great results, the stringing was gone after 0.5-.6mm.
however, when i try the other stringing calibration models from thingiverse it doesn't give me the same result. if i print a whole model using the setup that was working with the calibration model from orca - it would be fine at the bottom, where the widest part of the cone would be, but at the top - it would string soooo bad, and the stringing looks like silk and not like a "rigid stringing"
i've been trying to fix this for a week, can't get great results, please, can you give me any tips?
Which model from thingiverse are you trying?
@@fischer3d "Basic stringing test" by Loohney and "Ultrafast and economical stringing test" by s3sebastian. On the first one the stringing is present throughout the whole model, and on the other one - it only shows at the top 20-30 layers
Do you happen to know if the Bambi studio version of this yes works in reverses? I thought it was a direct copy but of orca but it looks like it does the retraction setting in reverses (starts at highest retraction and ends on lowest). I’m a bit lost
Which version of BS are you running? I'm not seeing it at all in my version, but can update and test on my end.
@@fischer3d Thank you for the reply. I re did the test with different settings and it looks to have worked correctly this time? The orca github calibration docs specified to start at 1mm for bowden tube setups but it seems my machine doesn't string between 1mm - 3mm of retraction but will string horribly at anything above that which threw me off because it looked to be working opposite of the documentation. I thought more retraction would leave incomplete seams rather than blobs and stringing?
That does sound a little weird to me. If you're running a bowden setup typically less retraction = more stringing. Are you running too hot? is z-hop distance too much? maybe a couple of other things to look at.
So I’m breaking in a new extruder and the stringing is bad, and when I run this, the stringing gets worse as the retraction increases. Can’t imagine why or how that happens.
strange. This is the second comment i've seen like this in the last couple of days. I'm wondering if there is a bug in the retraction test introduced in one of the latest releases. What version of orca are you running? also... what temp is your nozzle and is z-hop on or off?
thank you! great video
What's the effect of too much retraction? How does that manifest in a print?
Too much retraction could potentially cause under extrusion and clogging. If the filament is retracted too far inside the nozzle for too long you risk the filament cooling a bit and clogging the nozzle. In my opinion, retraction should be looked as reducing pressure in nozzle during travel moves. Since the plastic in the nozzle is already melted you aren't really retracting what's already melted, rather relieving pressure pressure from the feeding filament in the extruder.
@@fischer3d Gotcha. Thanks! I have a day of tuning coming up. I have way too many brands. That has to change.
hello and thanks for your video, im new at this, a week ago i bought an ender 3 v3 es ,and i am about to quit and sell it, please help me, ive done lots of tests, including this one, and i got the same ammount of strings on every single level, is there anything you can tell me to fix this please.
sure thing. I'll do my best. Do you have z-hop turned on? What temperature are you printing at? What is your standard retraction distance?
I do not have the Extruder Tab in Orca... 🙁
Turn on advanced settings, maybe?
Nice video, thanks for the extra tips ! Could do with louder audio next time please. Liked and sub already :)
thank you for this video!
i cannot get this tuned in, i have muliple test at different retract speeds to but still stringing
what kind of printer are you running?
@@fischer3d I am running an Ender 5 pro
Gotcha. What are your retraction min/max settings for the test? also, do you have z-hop enabled? You likely want to make sure z-hop is off for that test on that machine.
@@fischer3d i have done two test, first one was . Start - 0 End - 6 with step being 2mm then second test was start - 2 end - 10 with step 2. Had thick stringing on both , z-hop has been set to normal
I would suggest setting your z-hop distance to 0 and rerun the test.
Unfortunately, my printer still seems to Z-hop even after i told it to turn off z-hop... Weird.
👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
Stringing gets worse with higher retraction values on Sovol SV08 Core XY printer. Strange.
For everyone with the same Prolem as me:
Deactivate Z-Hop in the Filament settings
And
Deactivate it in the Printer settings.
Otherwise it will stay activated
No matter how much retracton i put still hairy very frustrating
so strange. you're like the 3rd or 4th person this week to mention it. what version of orca are you running? what type of printer? I'm wondering if the latest release has a bug in the test print. conversely, i just reran the test and have 0 stringing even at 0 retraction. my spider-sense says something in the sw is broken.
@@fischer3d latest version and anycubic vyper I'm thinking I might have to clean hotend was happening with bambu studio as well. Thought it was the filament it's MH silk
hmm. ok, please let me know how it goes. i'm looking through the gcode generated by the test to see if i can notice anything. i've noticed orca likes to bump default temps pretty high too while printing. excess heat can contribute to stringing.
I have a Vyper as well, dunno how current the firmware is because we only use an SD card on int instead of connecting it to a computer. Anywho, having a similar issue to this on our printer, with the additional problem that any code I export from Orca will set the printer's hot end temp to 0° unless I preheat the filament, even though I have the temp I want set up in orca itself.
Just ignore the model errors, it will be fine! This is why we can't have nice things, or trust things you say.
dood, you gonna turn on dark mode before you blow your eyeballs up, lol