It's a delight to listen to your straightforward commentary as you get on with the job and instruct without grandstanding. Your focus is on the job, not yourself. No egomania here!
Interesting take on the oil change, as someone who has been working on cars for 14 years or so I’ve always been dubious of the dipstick drain method. One issue you will find is that deposits and general sludge builds up towards the bottom of the pan and that won’t get sucked up by the small tube, it’s generally recommended to drain via sump as you can change the washer too in order to prevent any leaks. Also the fill via oil filter method is unnecessary as it won’t make a difference to oil distribution in the engine, that comes from the oil pump as the oil actually drains very quickly into the sump! You can fill an engine, check level and start the engine and usually within a minute check level again and fill up to level so leaving it 15 mins is a bit overkill. Also a great top tip is most modern cars if you start the engine with the throttle fully down it will cut ignition and you can crank it to build oil pressure without starting the engine so everything is fully lubricated. All in all a great job as always, overly cautious maybe but nothing wrong with that if it gives you a piece of mind! If all mechanics took things that seriously less stuff would go wrong one supposes :)
You'd disconnect the fuel pump or something to crank it over to build oil pressure but it's not necessary as he hasn't just rebuilt the engine and before it was serviced it was fine so fill it up and start up. Stop check oil. Job done. I agree with the others things you say
I was waiting for a sludge comment, in the 14 years you've been working on cars how many times have you seen sludge come out of a drain plug? Modern cars use synthetic oil that doesn't sludge up. If you did see sludge coming out then something is seriously wrong and you need to take the oil pan off, since most of the sludge would still be inside. I've been using an oil extractor for years on both my cars. My TDI is 15 years old with 134,000 miles on it. I've done every oil change in the last 50,000 miles through the dipstick. The car still runs fine with it's original turbo. But each to their own, if you wouldn't feel comfortable using one that's fine. I'd feel very uncomfortable trying to get under my car to undo the the engine covers let alone the oil plug.
Mercedes is using the suction method for years. They seem fine. I use it to. Just be sure you change your oil at the right interval. I do mine ever 15k
There is one reason to not use drain plug - I have bought same Jeep CRD and till now it was always serviced in original Mercedes service. They always use suction method to change oil. Now - after 10 years it is prety impossible to release drain plug. I have tried several times to release them, but torque up to 120Nm does not help. More I dont have courage to try, because pan is aluminium based and this can lead to demolished thread. So I use the similar method with electrical oil pump, oil flush additives before chane and change oil more often - after 8000 km. May be sometimes in the future I will take off the pan and clean all manually, but now I am fine with this.
Also some cars have a mesh screen for the oil pick up, Kia Sorento 2.5crdi have an issue with stuff building up on that overly fine screen and reducing oil pressure causing an oil pressure warning light to show on the dash. I'm not sure if sump draining or sucking out is better to remove this crud. Ideally you need to get to the screen and manually clean it but it's a fairly big job. But if you aren't having problems then just change oil more frequently and use flush. Sump draining is probably better because of gravity and crud build up on bottom of the sump imo.
Lifting the front end to get to the oil drain plug also has the advantage of tilting the sump back towards the drain hole to get the last of the cr@p out. Suction pumps are just a lazy way of doing it. Jacking up the front also enables you to get the front wheels off for a good look at the brake lines, drive shafts etc and to check that those pesky caliper slides have not jammed (again).
I'm ecstatic that you did a vehicle in your videos! From what I've seen you do a little bit of everything! Keep it up Vince! Very enjoyable and informative.
that engine is made by mercedes benz and is found in their class of 320 cdi cars from that era really good engine that has enough power and really really reliable is really quiet aswell for 3.0L diesel engine
I have decided I like this video. I know people are arguing about pump vs drain but I guess looking at it from a beginners point of view this may be the way they would want to go. To be honest, given the choice I think I might try and do this myself using a pump next time. We just had our car serviced and it cost £150 so just doing it once would most probably recoupe the price.
Well Vonce and Vinces brother what a neat device, that oil sucker uperer, never seen one before so I looked it up on ebay quite cheap really. One problem some newer model cars are now coming out without a dipstick, but they are a rarity I certainly don't have one. I love these videos its so nice to watch you do this with your brother he sounds very polite like you. Yes Vince a great informative video, great to see these types of video always a pleasure to watch these diversified videos showing off other talents, keep up the great videos, you have an extremely diversified subject matter.
MB engine glow plug control module is a black box in engine bay. Cost £££££££’s from MB used or pattern part. Remove use Dremel to to open and inside will be 6 fuse links. Replace links as req’d using appropriate awg wire seal box back up with silicon then check glow plugs not shorted replace any that are, refit control module job done👍
Im sorry but why wouldn't you use the drain plug to change the oil... it's at the lowest point for a reason, all the crap that the oil has "Washed" off the engine builds up at the drain plug and get flushed out when you unscrew it....just use the drain plug ffs
res1492 hi rest I agree re deposits being near the sump plug but I know in the U.K. Most garages use the pump it out method then fill with an oil flush run it to wash it out then pump that before refilling with oil
I thought that as well but I dont think Vince likes to get dirty and it can be a messy job and akward. I think I have also heard people have stripped the bolt (not sure if this is true) causing a major problem. If it was metal and at the bottom it would be held by the sump plug so wouldnt be going anywhere anyway and he did run it before emptying so most would be suspended in the oil and then taken out.
Sorry Pat but I have to disagree with you...the oil wash is another step in a service that the garage will not take unless you pay them, 98% of decent garages have a car lift and its easier for them to throw it up in the air and whip the plug out. If your garage is telling you your engine needs an "oil flush" every service then your being ripped off, i worked for "Lookers The Car People", booking services and used to get paid commission if we sold oil flushes on top of regular services
When you run the engine it thins the oil and suspends all the partials, so when you pump it out most all the particles are removed. In the marine environment most all engines need to be pumped out using this method as they don’t have a drain plug for environmental reasons (hard to get to, and a possibility of spilling gallons of oil in your bilge). The drain plug method is ideal, but this will work fine too.
Not bad. Getting on the ground and removing the drain plug is the hardest and easiest/best way to drain the old oil. I don't think I would recommend using the suction method unless you have something like a golf cart where you can't get to the drain plug. And it only has a couple of quarts of oil so it should take too long. Some downsides of not draining the oil out the bottom is you can't see if there is any metal bits in there. And you have to measure the oil. If comes out the bottom you can be sure its all out. Filling the oil through the oil filer is a good way to make sure you don't spill any. If it was better flowing it would be perfect to fill. I always seem to spill some. I'm guess its a diesel. Don't see many is the states. I have the 5.7 Hemi. Its a tamed beast. Glad to see you guys working on your own cars. Makes you feel good and you get bragging rights.
Hi Vince, I was watching a few of your fix-it videos, and I realized something you should know. I think you should look into getting an Electrostatic discharge wrist strap if you work a lot with chipboards/motherboards, or really anything electronic, it's extremely easy to fry things even with a fraction of the amount of static electricity we generate. And you are on a carpeted floor which makes it easier for you to create static electricity, so be careful, and look into getting that ESD wrist strap, or if you don't want to buy one, make sure you ground yourself before touching anything, by touching something metal, like the case, before you touch motherboards, chips, etc. And not a lot of people know or do this, but practicing this is for the best if you want to be safe.
if it's truly overfilled then it's time to check the injectors mate! when they get stuck they'll seep diesel into your engine oil. and filling through the return line of the oil filter housing is exactly the same sump or passage as through the fillercap so no need for that. only thing that can be slightly beneficial is if you fill the feed port to the oil filter housing.
TBH when you change your oil either by dropping the oil through the sump plug or by the suction method the sump will still have quite a bit of oil left in the pan and the only way to really empty all the gunge would be to drop the sump and give it a good clean out you could also give it a good check for any metal swarf in the pan and the oil pick up but its only something i would do at a major service interval . There are people saying the sump plug way is the better way because the sump plug will show any metallic bits which in some cases may be a point but i have noticed that many car manufacturers do not actually put the magnetic sump plugs in their vehicles maybe because they more commonly use aluminum for engine building which of course isnt magnetic . With the use of multigrade oils if serviced at regular intervals of 10.000 miles the vacuum extraction method is as good a way to use as dropping through the sump plug and you dont need to exchange plug washers every service either .personally i drop the oil through the plug as i put the cars on the ramp undo the plug and its faster for me .if i didnt have access to a ramp and had to do it outside my house on the roadside like many motorists do at the weekends or i was getting a little old to be climbing under cars with a washing up bowl it would be possibly safer to use the vacuum extraction as far as i see it really its which ever way you want
Just had the injectors replaced on mine I don't think they were letting diesel into the oil as the level didn't go up but she was smoking on start up. The injectors cost me £1800 to replace which maybe worth considering when buying one of these for three or four grand. A great car though, the injector specialist test drove it and said he loves them too
As a mechanic not the best way to change the oil. There is still bad oil in the oil pan. For the Error there is one or more Glow plug faulty. But you can diagnostic this. you need a multimeter. You have to measure the resistance of the glow plugs must be between 0,5ohm to 10ohm. But you see this exactly with comparing all. Just one tip to Minus Pol (Car Mass) and the other to the glow plug. Hope I could help you
The oil level may have been high due to fuel dilution, where in a compression ignition engine an amount of diesel passes the pistons etc and drains down into the oil raising the level.
I have to agree with a lot of comments here, I would never change the oil in my motors this way. Opening the drain plug and letting all of the crud out that way is definitely the way to go imo. Only in differentials and gearbox you have to sometimes empty the oil with a pump because there is no drain plug.
that oil is beyond dirty, i don't usually recommend flushes but i would with that engine it's proberbly had a lazy owner at some point also no need to worry about circulating the oil just floor the accellerator and turn the key the ecu will cut ignition that way you circulate the oil. great vid as usual
My girlfriends car takes 4.5 litres of oil so what i do is drain the old oil then with the drain plug still removed pour the spare half a litre of new oil in the filler hole and let that drain through the engine. This seams to just pull through any big blobs of sludge and seems to work so well that the new oil tends to look clearer for longer.
Great video. I have the same Jeep and the same problem with the extraction pipe being too short. Can you tell me where you bought the extra length of pipe/tubing. Cheers 👍
Great video. This car has the V6 om642 mercedes engine. Does the Jeep have a DPF because if so the oil spec should be MB 229.31/51/52. In case of no DPF then you are okay withthe MB 229.5.
IF you put the new oil half into the Dipstick side and the other half into the filter side, doesn't it make sense to also use the Oil suction pump on both sides when removing the old oil out?
wrong oil vince.. the 3.0 CRD WH/WK uses MB 229.51 not .5 meaning its 5w30 not 5w40 also RN0720 the 229.51 is for DPF engines and 229.5 without. this is important because of the egr system burns some excessive oil via intake. This is important for life of the diesel particle filter should max mark new oil change. new oil thin in first 1k
Thank you for your helpful video, I have a 2007 JEEP Commander with the OM642 engine too, but I cannot find the deepstick to check the trans. fluido level. Do you know where is it?
I would have drained it from the sump as that's where all the crap gathers so you've not really done a full oil change and got all the crap out of the bottom of the engine. A lot of these engines also have a magnet on the sump bung to catch metallic debris that needs cleaning at an oil change.
Just get a Halfords advanced one lifetime warranty and you can buy loads of different size sets.. I don't think vince does much car stuff so his set is perfect for the hobbiest
Hello Vince....I am looking for a Hose Heater Supply and return for a 2008 Grand Cherokee 3.0L diesel. Would you know anyone who can supply this part or has this in supply? Chrysler no longer makes this part anymore. The part number is 55038855AC. I am looking for the entire assembly if possible. This is going to be a major issue for anyone driving our model jeeps.
Any one doing a oil change use engine flush :) might as well for a extra few quid.!!And dump it out the sump don't use some stupid vacuum, you want to make sure you remove all of the deposits and most of them will be in corners of the sump.
Its ok. On chryslers come on all the time !!!!! Well this has a MB engine. Cant be better than cherokee inline 6 4L, but 90s and up chrysler in general looks like pain in the a$$
Do not buy a jeep what is older than five-year-old in the UK as their main dealers Will not work on them as they say they do not have the diagnostic equipment for vehicles older than five years old and the independent garages do not have any software for Chrysler Jeep
It's a delight to listen to your straightforward commentary as you get on with the job and instruct without grandstanding. Your focus is on the job, not yourself. No egomania here!
Interesting take on the oil change, as someone who has been working on cars for 14 years or so I’ve always been dubious of the dipstick drain method. One issue you will find is that deposits and general sludge builds up towards the bottom of the pan and that won’t get sucked up by the small tube, it’s generally recommended to drain via sump as you can change the washer too in order to prevent any leaks.
Also the fill via oil filter method is unnecessary as it won’t make a difference to oil distribution in the engine, that comes from the oil pump as the oil actually drains very quickly into the sump! You can fill an engine, check level and start the engine and usually within a minute check level again and fill up to level so leaving it 15 mins is a bit overkill.
Also a great top tip is most modern cars if you start the engine with the throttle fully down it will cut ignition and you can crank it to build oil pressure without starting the engine so everything is fully lubricated.
All in all a great job as always, overly cautious maybe but nothing wrong with that if it gives you a piece of mind! If all mechanics took things that seriously less stuff would go wrong one supposes :)
You'd disconnect the fuel pump or something to crank it over to build oil pressure but it's not necessary as he hasn't just rebuilt the engine and before it was serviced it was fine so fill it up and start up. Stop check oil. Job done. I agree with the others things you say
I was waiting for a sludge comment, in the 14 years you've been working on cars how many times have you seen sludge come out of a drain plug? Modern cars use synthetic oil that doesn't sludge up. If you did see sludge coming out then something is seriously wrong and you need to take the oil pan off, since most of the sludge would still be inside. I've been using an oil extractor for years on both my cars. My TDI is 15 years old with 134,000 miles on it. I've done every oil change in the last 50,000 miles through the dipstick. The car still runs fine with it's original turbo. But each to their own, if you wouldn't feel comfortable using one that's fine. I'd feel very uncomfortable trying to get under my car to undo the the engine covers let alone the oil plug.
Mercedes is using the suction method for years. They seem fine. I use it to. Just be sure you change your oil at the right interval. I do mine ever 15k
There is one reason to not use drain plug - I have bought same Jeep CRD and till now it was always serviced in original Mercedes service. They always use suction method to change oil. Now - after 10 years it is prety impossible to release drain plug. I have tried several times to release them, but torque up to 120Nm does not help. More I dont have courage to try, because pan is aluminium based and this can lead to demolished thread. So I use the similar method with electrical oil pump, oil flush additives before chane and change oil more often - after 8000 km. May be sometimes in the future I will take off the pan and clean all manually, but now I am fine with this.
Also some cars have a mesh screen for the oil pick up, Kia Sorento 2.5crdi have an issue with stuff building up on that overly fine screen and reducing oil pressure causing an oil pressure warning light to show on the dash.
I'm not sure if sump draining or sucking out is better to remove this crud. Ideally you need to get to the screen and manually clean it but it's a fairly big job. But if you aren't having problems then just change oil more frequently and use flush. Sump draining is probably better because of gravity and crud build up on bottom of the sump imo.
Lifting the front end to get to the oil drain plug also has the advantage of tilting the sump back towards the drain hole to get the last of the cr@p out. Suction pumps are just a lazy way of doing it.
Jacking up the front also enables you to get the front wheels off for a good look at the brake lines, drive shafts etc and to check that those pesky caliper slides have not jammed (again).
I'm ecstatic that you did a vehicle in your videos! From what I've seen you do a little bit of everything! Keep it up Vince! Very enjoyable and informative.
Can you fix brexit in your next video.
Good idea.
@Zyzzyzus maybe 50 vinces with full time can do the world free
Hello. I think you're in the wrong channel.
@ lol true
thats yer own fault kants :P
that engine is made by mercedes benz and is found in their class of 320 cdi cars from that era really good engine that has enough power and really really reliable is really quiet aswell for 3.0L diesel engine
Its actually unbelievable how you get to fix stuff, great videos man. xD
I have decided I like this video. I know people are arguing about pump vs drain but I guess looking at it from a beginners point of view this may be the way they would want to go. To be honest, given the choice I think I might try and do this myself using a pump next time. We just had our car serviced and it cost £150 so just doing it once would most probably recoupe the price.
I really like the fact you always talk about the price, makes the videos really worthwhile :-)
Well Vonce and Vinces brother what a neat device, that oil sucker uperer, never seen one before so I looked it up on ebay quite cheap really. One problem some newer model cars are now coming out without a dipstick, but they are a rarity I certainly don't have one. I love these videos its so nice to watch you do this with your brother he sounds very polite like you. Yes Vince a great informative video, great to see these types of video always a pleasure to watch these diversified videos showing off other talents, keep up the great videos, you have an extremely diversified subject matter.
MB engine glow plug control module is a black box in engine bay. Cost £££££££’s from MB used or pattern part. Remove use Dremel to to open and inside will be 6 fuse links. Replace links as req’d using appropriate awg wire seal box back up with silicon then check glow plugs not shorted replace any that are, refit control module job done👍
now you've done it!!! vince has fixed it for you and youuu
Im sorry but why wouldn't you use the drain plug to change the oil... it's at the lowest point for a reason, all the crap that the oil has "Washed" off the engine builds up at the drain plug and get flushed out when you unscrew it....just use the drain plug ffs
res1492 hi rest I agree re deposits being near the sump plug but I know in the U.K. Most garages use the pump it out method then fill with an oil flush run it to wash it out then pump that before refilling with oil
I thought that as well but I dont think Vince likes to get dirty and it can be a messy job and akward. I think I have also heard people have stripped the bolt (not sure if this is true) causing a major problem. If it was metal and at the bottom it would be held by the sump plug so wouldnt be going anywhere anyway and he did run it before emptying so most would be suspended in the oil and then taken out.
I agree
Sorry Pat but I have to disagree with you...the oil wash is another step in a service that the garage will not take unless you pay them, 98% of decent garages have a car lift and its easier for them to throw it up in the air and whip the plug out.
If your garage is telling you your engine needs an "oil flush" every service then your being ripped off, i worked for "Lookers The Car People", booking services and used to get paid commission if we sold oil flushes on top of regular services
When you run the engine it thins the oil and suspends all the partials, so when you pump it out most all the particles are removed. In the marine environment most all engines need to be pumped out using this method as they don’t have a drain plug for environmental reasons (hard to get to, and a possibility of spilling gallons of oil in your bilge). The drain plug method is ideal, but this will work fine too.
Not bad. Getting on the ground and removing the drain plug is the hardest and easiest/best way to drain the old oil. I don't think I would recommend using the suction method unless you have something like a golf cart where you can't get to the drain plug. And it only has a couple of quarts of oil so it should take too long. Some downsides of not draining the oil out the bottom is you can't see if there is any metal bits in there. And you have to measure the oil. If comes out the bottom you can be sure its all out.
Filling the oil through the oil filer is a good way to make sure you don't spill any. If it was better flowing it would be perfect to fill. I always seem to spill some.
I'm guess its a diesel. Don't see many is the states. I have the 5.7 Hemi. Its a tamed beast.
Glad to see you guys working on your own cars. Makes you feel good and you get bragging rights.
So it seems like you fix everything, can you fix my relationships?
Vince my man you’ve out done yourself
Fair play man 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
MY MATE DAVE!
Hi Vince, I was watching a few of your fix-it videos, and I realized something you should know. I think you should look into getting an Electrostatic discharge wrist strap if you work a lot with chipboards/motherboards, or really anything electronic, it's extremely easy to fry things even with a fraction of the amount of static electricity we generate. And you are on a carpeted floor which makes it easier for you to create static electricity, so be careful, and look into getting that ESD wrist strap, or if you don't want to buy one, make sure you ground yourself before touching anything, by touching something metal, like the case, before you touch motherboards, chips, etc. And not a lot of people know or do this, but practicing this is for the best if you want to be safe.
if it's truly overfilled then it's time to check the injectors mate! when they get stuck they'll seep diesel into your engine oil.
and filling through the return line of the oil filter housing is exactly the same sump or passage as through the fillercap so no need for that. only thing that can be slightly beneficial is if you fill the feed port to the oil filter housing.
TBH when you change your oil either by dropping the oil through the sump plug or by the suction method the sump will still have quite a bit of oil left in the pan and the only way to really empty all the gunge would be to drop the sump and give it a good clean out you could also give it a good check for any metal swarf in the pan and the oil pick up but its only something i would do at a major service interval . There are people saying the sump plug way is the better way because the sump plug will show any metallic bits which in some cases may be a point but i have noticed that many car manufacturers do not actually put the magnetic sump plugs in their vehicles maybe because they more commonly use aluminum for engine building which of course isnt magnetic .
With the use of multigrade oils if serviced at regular intervals of 10.000 miles the vacuum extraction method is as good a way to use as dropping through the sump plug and you dont need to exchange plug washers every service either .personally i drop the oil through the plug as i put the cars on the ramp undo the plug and its faster for me .if i didnt have access to a ramp and had to do it outside my house on the roadside like many motorists do at the weekends or i was getting a little old to be climbing under cars with a washing up bowl it would be possibly safer to use the vacuum extraction as far as i see it really its which ever way you want
Brilliant. I have never used an oil extractor before. I will def invest in one.
Hey Guys! VinceFix here! (the new chrisfix)😂 Love all your videos Vince❤ Love from London
Excellent video, very clear and the right pace. Thanks
I need a longer dipstick. The current one isnt long enough as there no oil on it.
Used to be a mechanic many years ago and can attest to all the sludge being at the bottom,best to drain it from the sump bung especially a diesel.
Brilliant, jeep servicing, great stuff, can't wait for the laser eye surgery video soon lol
Just had the injectors replaced on mine I don't think they were letting diesel into the oil as the level didn't go up but she was smoking on start up. The injectors cost me £1800 to replace which maybe worth considering when buying one of these for three or four grand. A great car though, the injector specialist test drove it and said he loves them too
My Mate Vince deserves more subcribers
Great video vince and dave, but changing the oil that way seems not so good idea to do in my opinion thank you for your amazing work
As a mechanic not the best way to change the oil. There is still bad oil in the oil pan. For the Error there is one or more Glow plug faulty. But you can diagnostic this. you need a multimeter.
You have to measure the resistance of the glow plugs must be between 0,5ohm to 10ohm. But you see this exactly with comparing all.
Just one tip to Minus Pol (Car Mass) and the other to the glow plug.
Hope I could help you
Great service video Vince.
Thanks for a great video. Very helpful. 👍
I think it's always best to drain out the sump plug, That way it guarantees you get all the old oil out instead of guess work.
The oil level may have been high due to fuel dilution, where in a compression ignition engine an amount of diesel passes the pistons etc and drains down into the oil raising the level.
Wow you know how to fix/do everything.. haha more cars videos please !
I have to agree with a lot of comments here, I would never change the oil in my motors this way. Opening the drain plug and letting all of the crud out that way is definitely the way to go imo. Only in differentials and gearbox you have to sometimes empty the oil with a pump because there is no drain plug.
that oil is beyond dirty, i don't usually recommend flushes but i would with that engine it's proberbly had a lazy owner at some point also no need to worry about circulating the oil just floor the accellerator and turn the key the ecu will cut ignition that way you circulate the oil. great vid as usual
My girlfriends car takes 4.5 litres of oil so what i do is drain the old oil then with the drain plug still removed pour the spare half a litre of new oil in the filler hole and let that drain through the engine. This seams to just pull through any big blobs of sludge and seems to work so well that the new oil tends to look clearer for longer.
Was your brothers jeep reliable??? Thinking of buying one myself
Very Very useful and Helpful video. thanks a lot
In this case you didn't change the washer in the oil drain plug ?
Do more car videos really enjoyed this one 👍🏻
Motivation to do my 2006 CRD 300C TOURING
I bought those ramps where you drive your car onto and doing oil changes is a breeze. The car is also at an angle so the oil rushes out.
Wright oil it is MB 229.51 for the DIESEL low SPAsh.
Nice one vince I wish that you can like do another video of fixing cars at your other friends house
Great video. I have the same Jeep and the same problem with the extraction pipe being too short. Can you tell me where you bought the extra length of pipe/tubing.
Cheers 👍
Great video, I'm going to do this next week. Do you know what the size removal tool I need for the oil filter cap? Tried finding online but can't.
Great video. This car has the V6 om642 mercedes engine. Does the Jeep have a DPF because if so the oil spec should be MB 229.31/51/52. In case of no DPF then you are okay withthe MB 229.5.
IF you put the new oil half into the Dipstick side and the other half into the filter side, doesn't it make sense to also use the Oil suction pump on both sides when removing the old oil out?
your brother sounds almost the exact same as you just with a slightly deeper voice
what would happend incase yiu didnt put oil in the oil filter case and only filled the 9.1/2q to the oil tank🤔
wrong oil vince.. the 3.0 CRD WH/WK uses MB 229.51 not .5 meaning its 5w30 not 5w40 also RN0720 the 229.51 is for DPF engines and 229.5 without. this is important because of the egr system burns some excessive oil via intake. This is important for life of the diesel particle filter
should max mark new oil change. new oil thin in first 1k
Thanks for the info. I will pass it onto my brother :-)
It's a Sealey vacuum liquid pump. It's on amazon and eBay for about £55
I go go Europarts for my parts to I wish my oil filter was that easy to get to though!
Thank you for your helpful video, I have a 2007 JEEP Commander with the OM642 engine too, but I cannot find the deepstick to check the trans. fluido level.
Do you know where is it?
You need to buy one online. Or use a long wire sinca you need to measure the oil at the end
i would like to know why you did not fill the oil to the max line???
Where did u get that oil suction gizmo from ? Take oil out engine
is the o rings nessecary for the oil filter or can i use the old ones
I have the same model. Where the hell is the paint codes on these things can't find anywhere
Hi. Contrary to some comments the MB229.5 oil is fine for this Engine. They have no DPF so the oil used in the Vid is OK.
Are there no DPF's in all pre-2009 WK Jeep Grand Cherokees?
@@BlLLIONAlRE You are UK? Mine is a late 2008 facelifted model and has no DPF.
Need to use an oil flush before fresh oil, and use the sump plug to get out the most crap if you are not flushing...
Good vid👍❤️
Shame they didn't have an V8 Edelbrock Power unit. You actually get a unit that works with an associated app on your mobile phone.
Overfilling with oil can burn the valves
I would have drained it from the sump as that's where all the crap gathers so you've not really done a full oil change and got all the crap out of the bottom of the engine. A lot of these engines also have a magnet on the sump bung to catch metallic debris that needs cleaning at an oil change.
Whats the oil pump called or have you a link too it?
Brilliant
Am I right in saying the 5 speed auto in this car is also sourced from Mercedes?
That's correct
Hi what's the MPG Like. Cheers
Anybody any ideas why a 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee would have a wet passenger seat??
Any answers would be grateful.
if you have a sunroof, it could be that the drain channel is blocked. It can be unblocked by blowing compressed air down it
Hi great vid what brand is the socket set? Many thanks
A cheap one lol
@@oakesiii3412 it looks decent he has everything in the set
Just get a Halfords advanced one lifetime warranty and you can buy loads of different size sets.. I don't think vince does much car stuff so his set is perfect for the hobbiest
Hello Vince....I am looking for a Hose Heater Supply and return for a 2008 Grand Cherokee 3.0L diesel. Would you know anyone who can supply this part or has this in supply? Chrysler no longer makes this part anymore. The part number is 55038855AC. I am looking for the entire assembly if possible. This is going to be a major issue for anyone driving our model jeeps.
I came here because the mysterious cabin filter was mentioned. Turns out there isn't one, as I thought. Maybe they only fit them in dusty countries.
My last car was a 3.0ltr V6...Bit too costly on fuel for my liking :(
Any one doing a oil change use engine flush :) might as well for a extra few quid.!!And dump it out
the sump don't use some stupid vacuum, you want to make sure you remove all of the deposits
and most of them will be in corners of the sump.
Have you ever tried to fix a PS3 or Xbox 360 before?
Change the engine oil every 5000 kms if you want the engine to last .
Must admit never seen changing engine oil that way.
Hey Vince :-)
21:39 I find funny and I allowed to vote and have mortgages and stuff. Nice vid tho!
At 11:11 you could mark both the cap and housing and retighten to same (".)
Think that actually dropping the oil would have been much, much easier.
Cool
I still really hate euro oil filters
Next vid: Fixing international space station
Vince has gone all Chris fix. Wrong gloves bro.
Vinces friend has a accident in his house. "repairing a 32 year old human man" bare in mind that hes not a trained professional.
forgot to mention that the parts for the repair cost him £7.13
Can i dm u on Instagram my xbox one controller dont turn on
Check ChrisFix channel if you’d like to learn more about cars
Watch chrisfix XD
That's a different way of doing it but if you ask me just seems kind of girly
nicht ab pumpen ihr last den satz in der wanne geht lieber robin spezial fummeln
If the check engine light isn't on you're wasting your time.
Its ok. On chryslers come on all the time !!!!! Well this has a MB engine. Cant be better than cherokee inline 6 4L, but 90s and up chrysler in general looks like pain in the a$$
Do not buy a jeep what is older than five-year-old in the UK as their main dealers Will not work on them as they say they do not have the diagnostic equipment for vehicles older than five years old and the independent garages do not have any software for Chrysler Jeep