Although that is a thing, for a couple of decades folks have been "casting" new gears at home for exactly these types of failures. ABS in particular is pretty cast and not as likely to shrink and crack as the nylon the originals are made out of.
My fave was the window cleaner as well👍! Satisfying to see the process of it getting fixed and then being used afterwards. (Signed again by: the ergonomic phone case owner😅)
that heat shrink split in two you can see into the crack when you push it down there is metal and the band of heat shrink moves down but the rest pops out the top.
I agree. I would have put larger heat shrink around the OUTSIDE of the cracked spindle (?) of the vacuum wheel to stop the crack from spreading. Maybe even multiple layers of heat shrink to hold it.
I agree. I would have tried to close that gap/crack on the impellor. I have used wire, wrapped around the plastic shaft and twisted tight. Volume control knobs ,on old radios used a spring clip round the outer bit, for the same purpose.
I'm pretty sure you cut the lower part of the heat shrink that was around the pin and pushed it down while the loose end was pushed out through the top. Great vid as always!
21:09 Vince, you absolute mad lad! Even though it was unsuccessful in the end, that was a heck of a job soldering that many wires in such a small space! I've done some longer runs with some 0.1mm enamel wire before, and absolutely despise it. The risk of accidentally desoldering the wires around it in such a close space with such small wiring is too much for my anxiety-driven brain! Well done for giving it a go.
IDK how or if at all that chip is still integral when powering the Pi through the GPIOs. But may be something to consider. Also, if failing the video test, it may still be worth testing the network response as there is plenty use cases without display. A 4 with memory in the lower end 1-2 G is for example perfect for a smart home controller Z-wave Zigbee etc. Anyways, even if the patient was left in a coma, that sure was some operation. Would have made a great surgeon. 😸
1:22:25 nice fix with the heat shrink. I had a simmiliar problem with a desk fan, fixed it with a zip tie on the stud. The zip tie holds the crack so it can't crack any more than it did, and it's still working fine years later :)
I recon the zip tie is a better solution, because it moves stress from the impeller itself onto the zip tie. By just adding something like heat shrink on the rod, it stresses the plastic more and the crack may propagate further, potentially making it loose again over time.
On that Karcher repair. I rekon the heatshrink sheared off into two parts, the bottom part slid down the motor spindle and the top bit pushed out the end. The motor spindle and the fan hub sheared it off.
That Frankenstein Pi you created is my favorite thing I’ve seen this year so far. That should be recreated as a trophy to be given to mad lad techies like you. As always, very entertaining. Much love from IndianaLand USA!
@1:21:34 you can see where the heat sink got split in half by the fan shaft hole as it was pressed on causing the bottom half of the shrink tube to stay at the bottom of the fan blade, but the rest of the tube stuck at the top of the shaft hole in the fan blade. The motor shaft is clearly visible in the split section of the shaft hole.
One piece of advice when it comes to testing any OS on a raspberry pi is that you can never hot insert an SD card while the pi is running. That is because the bios tries to do a post and cannot find the SD card hence it will not boot. I always had to unplug the pi, plug the SD card in and then boot up the pi. Also notice that when the correct OS (and yes, there is a difference between a raspberry pi 1 OS to one of a raspberry pi 2, 3 or 4) will boot up in a way where the red LED will instantly light up and stay lit for a while (depends on the model and the OS used) , followed by a long blink of the yellow led indicating the POST initialization was successful and the OS can boot.
Hi Vince. Love your videos, BUT with the Karcher repair, sorry to burst your bubble but I do not think it will last too long, for this reason:- Time line 1:20:13 if you look carefully you can see the crack on the fan/turbine open up and:- Time line 1:20:19 there is further evidence of the crack in the dome just under the protruding heat shrink. The mystery of the extra heat shrink. It is my guess the heat shrink split in half at the end of the shaft when the fan/turbine was pushed in place, the lower half sliding down the shaft and top half being bushed by the shaft through the hole at the blade side. All that been said I enjoy the way you work out a fix to things like this and like other comments 3D printed gear replacements could be a whole lot of fun for you. Keep up the GREAT work.
On the monster machine I'm pretty sure the motor gear wasn't engaging with the axle because there should have been another brass spacer / bearing on the axle similar to the one the spring pushed against. The spacer would have compressed the spring and moved the gears into mesh with the motor. The missing bearing might also be partly responsible for the lack of power.
regards the heat shrink on the shaft ..... the one heat shrink you put on split in two, if you watch again as the piece slides down you can see the steel shaft in the opening crack so the upper piece that was left came out the top, both parts were from the one piece of heat shrink you put on
Great video vince. You need to get yourself a hot stapler. It does exactly what you did but it's ready made and built for it. I use mine all the time. Also, if you do ever go down the path of getting a 3d printer for making parts, resin printers are better than FDM for functional parts. I have both and they're both good for different tasks
Hi Vince, I agree, my favorite fix is that window vacuum too. The problem could be heard from the beginning and I was expecting you to find something scraping against the propeller one way or another. And I am really amazed the control circuitry senses when something is blocking the motor and so shuts the device off. But it is even more clever than that (as I was able to hear when you tested it out after the fix): normally, when you block the suction side of a vaccuum cleaner, the propeller has much less air resistance (as you block the incoming air) and so the motor starts screaming and overturning and if you do it long enough, the motor overheats and burns out. With the device you fixed however, as soon as the air resistance decreases (as you block the suction side), the control circuitry senses this and the motor, after spinning up very briefly, slows down again to prevent overturning. Never noticed that with another vaccuum cleaner! Anyway, very nice video overall, as usual; it suited my needs perfectly after some turbulence at work today. :-)
Karcher window vac, the fan hub should have had some form of spring to squeeze it tight onto the motor shaft, either like a small hose clip, or a short length of extendible (pull) spring that is tight enough to break your fingernail when pushing it on. Unless a stainless spring, these would, of course, be susceptible to corrosion, so going the cheap cop-out route with a bit of plastic tubing was passed by the accountants!
Always enjoy the challenges you take on. I have had very good luck remaking gears exactly like the many cracked gears you feature in these videos. PET-G and Nylon are now easy to print with modern printers. I just make the shaft hole slightly small and place them in boiling water before I slide them onto the shaft.
Gotta leave it to the Raspberry Pi people to replace one essential component for one that breaks easier and cannot be replaced. That whole "going public" thing is really making them wonders.
@1:21:26 What I am thinking is the heat shrink was 'cut' by forcing the compressor wheel over the metal rod of the motor. Leaving one part on the top and moving the other part down like on the first attempt. No way they used some piece of heat shrink to make things fit...
Brilliant mixture Vince I really enjoyed it I can’t wait for the next instalment, I agree the window vac was the best, you get a lot of them that are water damaged and fans that are fouling on the cowling too they’re designed to fail.
Cool items and nice fixes 👍 Interesting that car racing game, never seen one before with detachable display. Always nice to see 80's toys getting fixed as well. Can't remember seeing an ad of it, but maybe I was a bit old for this toy anyway, turned 12 in 1986.
Well done on the Karcher vac. Good fix. Enjoyed it. Looking forward to the next one. Enjoy your window cleaning. It's really good for spills, when your washing machine next as a problem or your freezer defrosts. 😂
An FDM printer would likely be unsuitable for small gears which undergo stress on two of their axis's (axes ?) The layer style of printing would cause one of the axis's of the print to be unsuitable for shearing stress due to inherent weakness of the layers. I would imagine the only strong solution would be a resin printer.
The shrink tube on the window vac split in half. You can see silver in the 'crack' as you're pushing it down, indicating that the shrink tube ripped in half.
For the window thingy, I would have put the heatshrink on the center piece with the crack so that the heatshrink would squeeze the center on the shaft causing more friction... I don't know how the plastic would have reacted to heat, but maybe localized with the iron, the heatshrink would have shrunk nicely. adding to the shaft will only make the crack bigger.
Should get yourself a small plastic welder kit... like they use to repair cracked car bumpers small pieces of metal melted into the plastic I'm sure you could find a smaller version giving you the best chance of repairing the broken gears... just a thought love the content
When you talk about whether there was a sleeve inside the fan on that Karcher window cleaner. I think there definitely is. Look at your close up of the crack and you’ll see what appears to be a circle inside the hole the rotor slides into. No idea why it has a crack in it like the fan body. Makes me think it was hard plastic as well.
I might be mistaken but, in the case of the Raspberry Pi, could you use a razor to cut the pads where they're extending in to the ground plane on the replacement chip? They're connected on the other side so trimming the excess shouldn't be an issue, provided you do it neatly. That way, you could solder the replacement IC on without having to run 32 jumpers.
Spider, spider on the wall, who is the craziest fixer of them all? It's my mate Vince, with nerves of steel, long may last his copper reel! Though a tip for the master I have one, get together with PCBWay and design a tiny interconnect PCB for all the broken Raspberry pies. (PCB > PCB > Chip)
The heat shrink rips in half when you push the fan blade on. The other half ended up sticking out of the top of the fan. If you look closely you can see the heat shrink tear in 2.
Vince, two things I thought while watching the video about the toy truck - seeing the plastic apparently bent and the parts were farther apart then they should, you could have use a heat gun or hair dryer to bring them closer again. Now, if because of the angle and repaired gears the truck lost traction, you could increase the power. Two suggestions - use a modern lithium battery or better yet, there are some tiny DC to DC converter boards that you could use. I guess they are not that expensive coming from China and if I’m not wrong, some are even adjustable. Of course I know it’s just a toy and it makes no practical sense, I’m just thinking about the problem-solving aspect.
Hi Vince, could you tell me what Emissivity you use on your Flir please, and whether you added an additional lens to it? I have a Hikmicro version and I know very little about thermal cameras. Thanks, excellent vid as usual
My son drove us crazy for a monster machine truck for Christmas in around 1986, I think he was about 6 at the time, (he is 44 now, (blimey makes me feel old) I just phoned him to watch your video and he said that even when they were new it didn't climb, or even work all that well, the motor stalled easily, nothing like the graphics shown on the box advertises. He said it packed in within a month when he attempted to drive it down our staircase It wouldn't drive up them, so being a kid, why not let it go down landing in a dozen pieces at the bottom.. He didnt let on until now that he did it though
I was most amused to research that the "Game Kid' was produced by a company called "Intendro". They also produced a console called an "IES" and other Nintendo type rip offs. The Tomy truck thing probably is down on power as old cheap motors use permanent magnets that lose their magnetism over time. The model train boys have to re-magnetise the magnets in old models as they lose most of their power after 30+ years. Great fix-a-thon!
For the Pi MXL7704 you could check all the Vout pins 8 (1.5 to 3.6V), 25 (3 to 3.6V), 9 (1.3 to 1.9V), 32 (0.8 to 1.5V), 19 (0.6 to 1.4V), though these PMICs include I2C and I don't know whether the processor is controlling them (probably). Edit - on further reading it appears that the firmware checks for the presence of the DA9090 and, allegedly, won't work with anything else Love, Jealousy, Touch, Forever, Intense, Passion, Vince Obsession (0:35).
Vince, get yourself a 3d printer and test your skills at designing plastic gears to replace these nylon gears. You can even get a printer that prints nylon. Some will print a carbon fiber nylon for strength. Couple that with a pair of digital calipers for measuring and I'm sure you can work it out. Your a smart guy that has an inclination for this type of stuff. (From what i can tell from your videos)
Wow, you have spent so much energy to create this wire spider on Raspberry Pi. I would be extremely surprised if it would work, but even if it would ,it would be terrible in terms of EMC emissions. This chip is complex multiple DCDC converter. And for them the layout of the board and placement of inductors and capacitors is crucial. They have to be really close, so you have very small loop area for switching current. And this switching can be even more then 1 MHz and currents can be really big. With such a long wires probably it will not work at all, if it works voltages generated can be unstable and noisy and it will emit lots of radio interferences... In most datasheets for such chips you get the recommended layout and you really should follow it unless you really know what you are doing. And usually they say to place inductors and capacitors as close as possible.
You can buy a heat gun, looks like a soldering iron with twin nozzles (plastic welder) that comes with staples designed to do that job. Might be a bit big tho.
There is a product out there that does exactly the job of your "copper staple". I believe it was Big Clive that I saw do a video on it a while back. May be worth checking out with all the gears you keep coming across.
There are many of those products available. I got a $22 one that I use for remote control truck parts. I have a camber link with holes on both ends that pop into metal ball joints. The tolerance is off on the ball joint and when you pop the plastic end of the camber link onto the ball joint, it gets a crack right at the top. This is a mobile part that helps hold the tire on and moves with the suspension. Super glue doesn't hold it. A hot staple on both sides of the cracked end was the perfect solution. It's only an $8 part that I'm repairing, but it's a better solution than grinding down the metal ball joint and possibly grinding down too much and having a fit that's too loose. The device is usually called a hot stapler, or sometimes a plastic welder, which is a misnomer because a plastic welder is more like a soldering iron with a spade-shaped tip used to heat plastic, which you then melt a wire mesh into.
I have one of those, the staples are 0.8mm which is way too thick for those little gears. Maybe you can get thinner staples ? I haven't shopped around.
I, too, was a child of 1976 yet I have no idea what that “Monster Machine” rig is. Granted, I was a Southern California beach brat but still thought I was in the know when it came to the toys of the day. Unless it’s linked to some buried childhood trauma. Hopefully I just aloof . That being said, fire up the 3d printer and update the gear box(es). Have fun!!
For the Pi, cay you not obtain the datasheets for the pinouts of the blown chip & the potential replacement? That should help enormously with figuring which trace should go where (& assorted bridges if necessary). Also, you said originally you had 2 boards: one you bought as a replacement (which you cannibalised); is the other board still around to act as another potential donor? WRT the GameKid you /may/ be able to cut down a really small triangular 'bulldog' clip to restore the cartridge clip, tho I'm unsure how you'd affix it to the plastic body Always with mechanical devices, noise indicates inefficiency. Excess noise is usually easily identifiable even with human ears (eg a fan rubbing or a bearing grating, or underpowered/overpowered motor), so an easy (& satisfying) fix (or simply diagnosis if parts aren't available) there :) As always, well done!
Hi Vince, a Pi will not display anything without a micro SD card having the software installed off the Pi site, the bios looks for the correct boot sequence or it goes to sleep. the same is for most of the other micro boards too, try it again with Pi OS installed first, it will take a while as it sorts its self out. Use Balena Etcher or Pi install to setup the micro SD card correctly as you have to write an image file to it.
Vince,there is a tool that welds shaped metal into plastic ! but can't remember where i saw it ! think it it would be ideal for you,but if i put a link on here youtube will just delete it,like they have done to me in the past ! plastic welding kit sold on the famous shopping place that i can't seem to mention on this platform ! begins with a
Maybe you couldn't print a gear with a 3D printer, but you could print a new back for that Game Kid handheld complete with hook. What an interesting little device.
I am no Pi expert but as far as I know they don't come with software, that's stored on the SD and I didn't hear you mention if you had the software installed on the SD. Revisit Vince. PS Love the channel, especially the Rolls videos.
@44:00 noice catto-pesterer.... Be glad you're not dealing with Phillips electronics's 'Red Leicester Cheese' gears.... We would've put a spring around that fan (bearing? shaft?) or wrapped a mini-paperclip around it because putting heat shrink around the motor's drive shaft will just cause more damage.
I know this for a fact. A Rspberry Pi 4 needs a proper power supply. I think it could be a 4 amp . I had two and as soon as it was connected it went dead. As soon as I bought the original ones they worked flawless.
For the raspberry pi try using a official raspberry pi power supply I know it may sound crazy but if you did then the raspberry pi would have booted up
The madman finally did it. He fixed everything.
Can't wait for your first "3d printing my own darn gears" video.
Although that is a thing, for a couple of decades folks have been "casting" new gears at home for exactly these types of failures. ABS in particular is pretty cast and not as likely to shrink and crack as the nylon the originals are made out of.
@@michaelkrenzer3296 ABS is not abrasion resistant. That is why the gears are made from Nylon (also because it is self lubricating).
@@TylerDurden-pk5km I am aware but it also shrinks, as mentioned, which is fun when printing it but much worse when casting.
once he prints out his first custom piece his world is going to change when he realizes the possibilities that exist
@@Ismcant IKR, he might have to start a separate 3d channel.
My fave was the window cleaner as well👍! Satisfying to see the process of it getting fixed and then being used afterwards. (Signed again by: the ergonomic phone case owner😅)
Hahaha Naomi, nice to see you here. I hope that phone case is treating you well!!! Cheers for commenting.
that heat shrink split in two you can see into the crack when you push it down there is metal and the band of heat shrink moves down but the rest pops out the top.
I agree. I would have put larger heat shrink around the OUTSIDE of the cracked spindle (?) of the vacuum wheel to stop the crack from spreading. Maybe even multiple layers of heat shrink to hold it.
I agree. I would have tried to close that gap/crack on the impellor. I have used wire, wrapped around the plastic shaft and twisted tight. Volume control knobs ,on old radios used a spring clip round the outer bit, for the same purpose.
I'm pretty sure you cut the lower part of the heat shrink that was around the pin and pushed it down while the loose end was pushed out through the top. Great vid as always!
21:09 Vince, you absolute mad lad!
Even though it was unsuccessful in the end, that was a heck of a job soldering that many wires in such a small space! I've done some longer runs with some 0.1mm enamel wire before, and absolutely despise it. The risk of accidentally desoldering the wires around it in such a close space with such small wiring is too much for my anxiety-driven brain! Well done for giving it a go.
Yeah, it is a real pain, I have to remember I'm right handed and start from the correct side as one twitch and boom 4 previous wires come off 😂
@@Mymatevince Hi, Vince. There's no oil in nylon, just water. Hot water for a couple of hours will fix them (not the cracks).
IDK how or if at all that chip is still integral when powering the Pi through the GPIOs. But may be something to consider.
Also, if failing the video test, it may still be worth testing the network response as there is plenty use cases without display. A 4 with memory in the lower end 1-2 G is for example perfect for a smart home controller Z-wave Zigbee etc.
Anyways, even if the patient was left in a coma, that sure was some operation. Would have made a great surgeon. 😸
1:22:25 nice fix with the heat shrink. I had a simmiliar problem with a desk fan, fixed it with a zip tie on the stud. The zip tie holds the crack so it can't crack any more than it did, and it's still working fine years later :)
I recon the zip tie is a better solution, because it moves stress from the impeller itself onto the zip tie. By just adding something like heat shrink on the rod, it stresses the plastic more and the crack may propagate further, potentially making it loose again over time.
On that Karcher repair. I rekon the heatshrink sheared off into two parts, the bottom part slid down the motor spindle and the top bit pushed out the end. The motor spindle and the fan hub sheared it off.
That Frankenstein Pi you created is my favorite thing I’ve seen this year so far. That should be recreated as a trophy to be given to mad lad techies like you. As always, very entertaining. Much love from IndianaLand USA!
I've never heard of 9 violets but I really like that song. It's very familiar and has some Beatles sounds mixed with 90s alternative rock. I love it.
Lovely compliment. Many thanks
@1:21:34 you can see where the heat sink got split in half by the fan shaft hole as it was pressed on causing the bottom half of the shrink tube to stay at the bottom of the fan blade, but the rest of the tube stuck at the top of the shaft hole in the fan blade. The motor shaft is clearly visible in the split section of the shaft hole.
One piece of advice when it comes to testing any OS on a raspberry pi is that you can never hot insert an SD card while the pi is running. That is because the bios tries to do a post and cannot find the SD card hence it will not boot. I always had to unplug the pi, plug the SD card in and then boot up the pi. Also notice that when the correct OS (and yes, there is a difference between a raspberry pi 1 OS to one of a raspberry pi 2, 3 or 4) will boot up in a way where the red LED will instantly light up and stay lit for a while (depends on the model and the OS used) , followed by a long blink of the yellow led indicating the POST initialization was successful and the OS can boot.
Hi Vince.
Love your videos, BUT with the Karcher repair, sorry to burst your bubble but I do not think it will last too long, for this reason:- Time line 1:20:13 if you look carefully you can see the crack on the fan/turbine open up and:- Time line 1:20:19 there is further evidence of the crack in the dome just under the protruding heat shrink. The mystery of the extra heat shrink. It is my guess the heat shrink split in half at the end of the shaft when the fan/turbine was pushed in place, the lower half sliding down the shaft and top half being bushed by the shaft through the hole at the blade side. All that been said I enjoy the way you work out a fix to things like this and like other comments 3D printed gear replacements could be a whole lot of fun for you.
Keep up the GREAT work.
On the monster machine I'm pretty sure the motor gear wasn't engaging with the axle because there should have been another brass spacer / bearing on the axle similar to the one the spring pushed against. The spacer would have compressed the spring and moved the gears into mesh with the motor. The missing bearing might also be partly responsible for the lack of power.
I thought so too.
or maybe gears are repaired good enough that they have friction to "hold" on to axle but when torque is needed they start to slip
regards the heat shrink on the shaft ..... the one heat shrink you put on split in two, if you watch again as the piece slides down you can see the steel shaft in the opening crack so the upper piece that was left came out the top, both parts were from the one piece of heat shrink you put on
Great video vince. You need to get yourself a hot stapler. It does exactly what you did but it's ready made and built for it. I use mine all the time. Also, if you do ever go down the path of getting a 3d printer for making parts, resin printers are better than FDM for functional parts. I have both and they're both good for different tasks
Hi Vince, I agree, my favorite fix is that window vacuum too. The problem could be heard from the beginning and I was expecting you to find something scraping against the propeller one way or another. And I am really amazed the control circuitry senses when something is blocking the motor and so shuts the device off. But it is even more clever than that (as I was able to hear when you tested it out after the fix): normally, when you block the suction side of a vaccuum cleaner, the propeller has much less air resistance (as you block the incoming air) and so the motor starts screaming and overturning and if you do it long enough, the motor overheats and burns out. With the device you fixed however, as soon as the air resistance decreases (as you block the suction side), the control circuitry senses this and the motor, after spinning up very briefly, slows down again to prevent overturning. Never noticed that with another vaccuum cleaner! Anyway, very nice video overall, as usual; it suited my needs perfectly after some turbulence at work today. :-)
excellent as always.... i take apart a few small items now fixed a few ...recycled a few (not fixed) ....all because i watch your videos...
Karcher window vac, the fan hub should have had some form of spring to squeeze it tight onto the motor shaft, either like a small hose clip, or a short length of extendible (pull) spring that is tight enough to break your fingernail when pushing it on. Unless a stainless spring, these would, of course, be susceptible to corrosion, so going the cheap cop-out route with a bit of plastic tubing was passed by the accountants!
1:17:28 "It looks like a very nice crack", steady on Vince!
Always enjoy the challenges you take on. I have had very good luck remaking gears exactly like the many cracked gears you feature in these videos. PET-G and Nylon are now easy to print with modern printers. I just make the shaft hole slightly small and place them in boiling water before I slide them onto the shaft.
Your commitment to the bodge is astounding. Viva la rat'sberry pi.
Vince little tip for you when the sprockets crack glue some metal washers on the side that’s what I do on my retro remote cars works well
Gotta leave it to the Raspberry Pi people to replace one essential component for one that breaks easier and cannot be replaced. That whole "going public" thing is really making them wonders.
Those karcher window vacs are the best. I absolutely loathe cleaning windows, but that thing makes it fun and satisfying. Great fix!
You're the best Vince! Thanks for all the years of entertainment!
@1:21:26 What I am thinking is the heat shrink was 'cut' by forcing the compressor wheel over the metal rod of the motor. Leaving one part on the top and moving the other part down like on the first attempt. No way they used some piece of heat shrink to make things fit...
Brilliant mixture Vince I really enjoyed it I can’t wait for the next instalment, I agree the window vac was the best, you get a lot of them that are water damaged and fans that are fouling on the cowling too they’re designed to fail.
To repair plastic parts I normally insert staples through the plastic, insert with a soldering iron and bend the backs over. It works well.
Vince you are the bodge master, well done 😀
Cool items and nice fixes 👍 Interesting that car racing game, never seen one before with detachable display. Always nice to see 80's toys getting fixed as well. Can't remember seeing an ad of it, but maybe I was a bit old for this toy anyway, turned 12 in 1986.
Well done on the Karcher vac. Good fix. Enjoyed it. Looking forward to the next one. Enjoy your window cleaning. It's really good for spills, when your washing machine next as a problem or your freezer defrosts. 😂
Vince, You need a 3D printer so you can print new gears! It's really easy to design and print them and it works so well!!!
I've heard in one of his previous videos that he already has one 3d printer but in a box because he could not get time to set it up.
An FDM printer would likely be unsuitable for small gears which undergo stress on two of their axis's (axes ?)
The layer style of printing would cause one of the axis's of the print to be unsuitable for shearing stress due to inherent weakness of the layers.
I would imagine the only strong solution would be a resin printer.
The shrink tube on the window vac split in half. You can see silver in the 'crack' as you're pushing it down, indicating that the shrink tube ripped in half.
For the window thingy, I would have put the heatshrink on the center piece with the crack so that the heatshrink would squeeze the center on the shaft causing more friction... I don't know how the plastic would have reacted to heat, but maybe localized with the iron, the heatshrink would have shrunk nicely. adding to the shaft will only make the crack bigger.
Should get yourself a small plastic welder kit... like they use to repair cracked car bumpers small pieces of metal melted into the plastic I'm sure you could find a smaller version giving you the best chance of repairing the broken gears... just a thought love the content
Wow Vince!!! So much fun boss.
When you talk about whether there was a sleeve inside the fan on that Karcher window cleaner. I think there definitely is. Look at your close up of the crack and you’ll see what appears to be a circle inside the hole the rotor slides into. No idea why it has a crack in it like the fan body. Makes me think it was hard plastic as well.
An obstacle course with a hammer, having fun repairs dremel tool, a smelly slipper, a mug and a bunch if bananas interesting combination Vince 😂😂😂😂
1:17:42 The bushing is a rolled bit of steel. The plastic has broken along that seam.
I might be mistaken but, in the case of the Raspberry Pi, could you use a razor to cut the pads where they're extending in to the ground plane on the replacement chip? They're connected on the other side so trimming the excess shouldn't be an issue, provided you do it neatly. That way, you could solder the replacement IC on without having to run 32 jumpers.
enjoyed it all Vince 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
love these mixed fix ( attempts )videos , i still think the fan mounting on the karcher motor could have been designed better.
Karcher window vac was for sure the best fix.
MMV invented heat staples!
Definitely waiting for you to begin resin printing new gears.
Well played with the song choice on the RPi 😄
Spider, spider on the wall, who is the craziest fixer of them all? It's my mate Vince, with nerves of steel, long may last his copper reel! Though a tip for the master I have one, get together with PCBWay and design a tiny interconnect PCB for all the broken Raspberry pies. (PCB > PCB > Chip)
😂😂 Cheers Marcel!
@@Mymatevince You are very welcome mate :-D
The heat shrink rips in half when you push the fan blade on. The other half ended up sticking out of the top of the fan. If you look closely you can see the heat shrink tear in 2.
I liked embedding the metal into the gear, but I wonder if you should clamp the gear tight first? So it won't slip on the axle.
Really been enjoying these fix everything video's
Vince, two things I thought while watching the video about the toy truck - seeing the plastic apparently bent and the parts were farther apart then they should, you could have use a heat gun or hair dryer to bring them closer again.
Now, if because of the angle and repaired gears the truck lost traction, you could increase the power. Two suggestions - use a modern lithium battery or better yet, there are some tiny DC to DC converter boards that you could use. I guess they are not that expensive coming from China and if I’m not wrong, some are even adjustable. Of course I know it’s just a toy and it makes no practical sense, I’m just thinking about the problem-solving aspect.
I agree ! your ideas reasonably quick to try. :)
8:00 there is a resistor instead of your shorted cap on the other one?
Hi Vince, could you tell me what Emissivity you use on your Flir please, and whether you added an additional lens to it? I have a Hikmicro version and I know very little about thermal cameras. Thanks, excellent vid as usual
My son drove us crazy for a monster machine truck for Christmas in around 1986, I think he was about 6 at the time, (he is 44 now, (blimey makes me feel old)
I just phoned him to watch your video and he said that even when they were new it didn't climb, or even work all that well, the motor stalled easily, nothing like the graphics shown on the box advertises.
He said it packed in within a month when he attempted to drive it down our staircase
It wouldn't drive up them, so being a kid, why not let it go down landing in a dozen pieces at the bottom..
He didnt let on until now that he did it though
Hahaha, brilliant! The guilty secret revealed 38 years later 😂😂😂
About the Pi… could have used solder mask to cover the pins a little and then put the other IC on.
I was most amused to research that the "Game Kid' was produced by a company called "Intendro". They also produced a console called an "IES" and other Nintendo type rip offs. The Tomy truck thing probably is down on power as old cheap motors use permanent magnets that lose their magnetism over time. The model train boys have to re-magnetise the magnets in old models as they lose most of their power after 30+ years. Great fix-a-thon!
Stuart getting two shoutouts in one section a new record.
😂😂
What a great fix on that Tyco!
For the Pi MXL7704 you could check all the Vout pins 8 (1.5 to 3.6V), 25 (3 to 3.6V), 9 (1.3 to 1.9V), 32 (0.8 to 1.5V), 19 (0.6 to 1.4V), though these PMICs include I2C and I don't know whether the processor is controlling them (probably). Edit - on further reading it appears that the firmware checks for the presence of the DA9090 and, allegedly, won't work with anything else
Love, Jealousy, Touch, Forever, Intense, Passion, Vince Obsession (0:35).
-Vince tries to fix a POPstation
-Ashens walks in: Are you mad mate!!!
Vince, get yourself a 3d printer and test your skills at designing plastic gears to replace these nylon gears. You can even get a printer that prints nylon. Some will print a carbon fiber nylon for strength. Couple that with a pair of digital calipers for measuring and I'm sure you can work it out. Your a smart guy that has an inclination for this type of stuff. (From what i can tell from your videos)
Wow, you have spent so much energy to create this wire spider on Raspberry Pi. I would be extremely surprised if it would work, but even if it would ,it would be terrible in terms of EMC emissions. This chip is complex multiple DCDC converter. And for them the layout of the board and placement of inductors and capacitors is crucial. They have to be really close, so you have very small loop area for switching current. And this switching can be even more then 1 MHz and currents can be really big. With such a long wires probably it will not work at all, if it works voltages generated can be unstable and noisy and it will emit lots of radio interferences... In most datasheets for such chips you get the recommended layout and you really should follow it unless you really know what you are doing. And usually they say to place inductors and capacitors as close as possible.
17:10 Why not inject 3.3v and maybe other voltages this converter is generating straight on the coils
You get one of those window vacuum thingies in the game House Flipper. I had no idea it was a real thing.
Epic soldering! But I note that at 4.00 min the board is drawing 8 to 10 mA, the same as after soldering at 21.51.
The heat shrink broke as you pushed in it by the looks of it you can see the shiny shaft through the crack 😮
"you can see the shiny shaft through the crack"
That's what she said. I guess she saw a naked robot ?
Love these videos Vince, keep them coming treir better then tv 👍🏻
You can buy a heat gun, looks like a soldering iron with twin nozzles (plastic welder) that comes with staples designed to do that job. Might be a bit big tho.
what's the black glue he used to tack down the ic?
There is a product out there that does exactly the job of your "copper staple". I believe it was Big Clive that I saw do a video on it a while back. May be worth checking out with all the gears you keep coming across.
There are many of those products available.
I got a $22 one that I use for remote control truck parts.
I have a camber link with holes on both ends that pop into metal ball joints. The tolerance is off on the ball joint and when you pop the plastic end of the camber link onto the ball joint, it gets a crack right at the top. This is a mobile part that helps hold the tire on and moves with the suspension.
Super glue doesn't hold it.
A hot staple on both sides of the cracked end was the perfect solution.
It's only an $8 part that I'm repairing, but it's a better solution than grinding down the metal ball joint and possibly grinding down too much and having a fit that's too loose.
The device is usually called a hot stapler, or sometimes a plastic welder, which is a misnomer because a plastic welder is more like a soldering iron with a spade-shaped tip used to heat plastic, which you then melt a wire mesh into.
Monster machines were great 😊 as well as micro
I couldn’t believe my eyes 😂😂😂 when I saw all of those wires 😅
That is dogged determination. It was worth a try Dr. Frankenstein.
I had one of those game kids and I loved it
Did you install the correct operating system on the sd card for the raspberry pi? And it may need to have a power button to turn on
A Frankenberry computer!! Best wishes from the USA!
car bumper repair gun and staples is what you want viniboy
I have one of those, the staples are 0.8mm which is way too thick for those little gears.
Maybe you can get thinner staples ? I haven't shopped around.
"That looks like a very nice crack, doesn't it" Yes🤣
Just the kind of video I needed today. 😊
I wasn’t bought up on computers, what is a raspberry pi ? Another great video 👌
Can't you get circuit board to add the old board on and plug into pi4 😊😊
I, too, was a child of 1976 yet I have no idea what that “Monster Machine” rig is. Granted, I was a Southern California beach brat but still thought I was in the know when it came to the toys of the day. Unless it’s linked to some buried childhood trauma. Hopefully I just aloof .
That being said, fire up the 3d printer and update the gear box(es). Have fun!!
For the Pi, cay you not obtain the datasheets for the pinouts of the blown chip & the potential replacement? That should help enormously with figuring which trace should go where (& assorted bridges if necessary). Also, you said originally you had 2 boards: one you bought as a replacement (which you cannibalised); is the other board still around to act as another potential donor?
WRT the GameKid you /may/ be able to cut down a really small triangular 'bulldog' clip to restore the cartridge clip, tho I'm unsure how you'd affix it to the plastic body
Always with mechanical devices, noise indicates inefficiency. Excess noise is usually easily identifiable even with human ears (eg a fan rubbing or a bearing grating, or underpowered/overpowered motor), so an easy (& satisfying) fix (or simply diagnosis if parts aren't available) there :)
As always, well done!
Do you have a ebay page where you sell what you fix
Hi Vince, a Pi will not display anything without a micro SD card having the software installed off the Pi site, the bios looks for the correct boot sequence or it goes to sleep. the same is for most of the other micro boards too, try it again with Pi OS installed first, it will take a while as it sorts its self out. Use Balena Etcher or Pi install to setup the micro SD card correctly as you have to write an image file to it.
The older pi's dont have a bootrom indeed! But the pi4 and pi5 do. They just show a "no os" screen with a qr code when powered
The Raspberry Pi PMIC would have been such a great opportunity to pick up a JLPCB sponsorship ... by designing a small two sided board.
If anyone can fix everything, it's Vince! Please Vince, fix EVERYTHING!
Vince,there is a tool that welds shaped metal into plastic ! but can't remember where i saw it ! think it it would be ideal for you,but if i put a link on here youtube will just delete it,like they have done to me in the past ! plastic welding kit sold on the famous shopping place that i can't seem to mention on this platform ! begins with a
Maybe you couldn't print a gear with a 3D printer, but you could print a new back for that Game Kid handheld complete with hook. What an interesting little device.
I am no Pi expert but as far as I know they don't come with software, that's stored on the SD and I didn't hear you mention if you had the software installed on the SD. Revisit Vince. PS Love the channel, especially the Rolls videos.
Hi I always lv your video and interest in the games and gadgets I found this one for sale I read this a bootleg version of the game boy
@44:00 noice catto-pesterer....
Be glad you're not dealing with Phillips electronics's 'Red Leicester Cheese' gears....
We would've put a spring around that fan (bearing? shaft?) or wrapped a mini-paperclip around it because putting heat shrink around the motor's drive shaft will just cause more damage.
I think the heatshrink broke when you pushed the fan blade down the shaft.
1:22:50 I think that crack is not part of the design and needs some glue as well as a dot on the top where the heatshrink poked through.
NO WAY, 100% BINGEING THIS
I know this for a fact. A Rspberry Pi 4 needs a proper power supply. I think it could be a 4 amp . I had two and as soon as it was connected it went dead. As soon as I bought the original ones they worked flawless.
A channel that upgrades them nylon gear toys would do well I think
There is a resistor on your old pi 4 board instead of a capacitor on the new one.
Loving that thumbnail and title
For the raspberry pi try using a official raspberry pi power supply I know it may sound crazy but if you did then the raspberry pi would have booted up