Nice video mate, FYI the little minus that you mentioned is actually the indicator for the TPS, it should be sat in the middle which means that yours need slight adjustment down, a simple fix though.
Thanks for the feedback. I don’t currently have a bike that needs that sensor replaced. It is located under your main seat and battery. Very easy to replace.
Mr Passionbuilt, have you had smoke coming from under the seat while the bike was idling and the smell of burning plastic ?? It happened after id had the tank up to replace my coolant reservoir.
Hey there. I’ve never had that issue with my bikes. I highly recommend pulling your seat and checking your battery and starter relay to make sure nothing touched that shouldn’t be touched. The common issue for smoke arising from under the seat / fairings is usually a failing rectifier. I would honestly check the rectifier first. If it smells burnt or has melted wiring. You will need to replace it. Hope this helps you figure out your issue.
@@PASSIONBUILT thank you for the response I've been at it all morning and I found the culprit! One of the hoses with making contact with the header of the rear cylinder. I'm going to check on the rectifier but I've already ridden it and everything is fine. No other symptoms
Awesome. Glad you were able to figure it out! Make sure you keep all wires and hoses clear of the headers. The headers get extremely hot and will melt / burn anything that touches them. Glad it was an easy fix for you though. Ride safe!
Great video, but my problem seems to be intermittent. On start up, if the FI light is flashing, it won't start. If I turn it off & on, it might take a few times, but the blinking will stop and I can start it. This occasionally, and only, occurs at start up. I feel like putting it into diagnostic mode won't tell me anything UNLESS it is blinking, which is unpredictable.
You’re gonna have to keep trying to put it in mode. If it’s really that intermittent. I would also check your green connector coming off the ignition switch. Common problem on these bikes. Google “green connector of death”.
Are you eliminating the pair system or repairing it? If you block the pair system, I don’t think there is a way to turn off the code. If you’re repairing it. It should turn off the code once repaired and functioning.
I was installing SpeedoHealer. And lifted up the tank... But I forgot it was full so I noticed something smelling like fuel. And it leaked out somewhere near the battery ... It's a 2020 SV650. You think it'll dry out and work? Because I wanna ride the bike after the install! Where is this sensor located btw?
LOL I found the problem!!! I had the ECU and (unknown to me) the sensor hanging by the side of the bike to have better access to the wires for splicing... So yes of course now it makes sense, if the sensor is dangling by the side the bike thinks it fell over!
Hey there. The FI light is a warning indicator for fuel injected bikes that are having issues that may impede the bikes fuel injection system from operating correctly. While at the end of the day it technically is a “fault indicator” light. It actually stands for “fuel injection”. It’s like a check engine light on a car. It doesn’t actually mean you need to check your engine. It means that something with the vehicles emissions system is not functioning correctly.
I was in an accident riding my 2007 SV650. I am trying to get it back on the road. It’s been sitting for almost two years. I did the bypass to try and find out why it wasn’t starting. I can hear the fuel injection winding up but nothing happens when I push the start button. The only code I get it c 00. Battery is new and fully charged. All fuses good. Lights, turn signal, and horn work. But nothing from my starter and no other codes. Any hints?
@@PASSIONBUILT Sorry, I’m an idiot. I did not see a response. I was able to figure out that it was the clutch switch. Which I disassembled cleaned the contacts reassembled and now it’s perfectly. Thanks again for your reply.
Messaged you on IG but I’m going to answer this to help out the community in the comments section. C00 means no fault The dash ( - ) in front of it is your TPS (throttle position sensor) indicator. If it is up it means that you need to adjust your TPS sensor down. If it is down that means your TPS needs to be adjusted up. Once you’ve adjusted it in the correct position. You will just have the C00 code on the screen with no dash ( - ) in front of it. Hope this helps 🙂👍🏼
Throttle position sensor. If the dash is in middle followed by letter C and zeros is the correct position. If the dash is on top or bottom then it needs to be adjusted.
@@PASSIONBUILT agradezco tu apoyo, ya valido con el manual de servicio y se cambio el relay pero el problema persiste, quizá como dice el manual mi problema sea la centralita. Saludos!
How does one identify the model code for which year an sv650 is? Ps: i know that this doesn't relate to the video, but I'd really appreciate help on this
@@PASSIONBUILT The haynes manual has a thorough description of the differences in Gen 1 & 2 model years. If you can find the original paint, that's a big help also, because there might be 2 different yellows but one would have an aluminum color frame and the other a black, etc. With Gladius, do the VIN.
No problem at all. Hope it helps you figure out whatever is wrong with your SV! If you haven’t subscribed to the channel. Please subscribe. It really helps 🙂
I have a 2003 sv1000 n rn I’m having trouble finding out why it keeps flashing the FI light when I’m cruising around, it’ll make the bike die until I hold the clutch in and give it gas. I’ve ran the codes many times and it just shows -c00. If someone could help it’d be very appreciated.
You need to adjust your TPS. The dash before the C00 code indicates the TPS being off. You can put it into dealer mode while adjusting it and it will go away when the TPS is in the correct position. I believe Kevs Shed made a video on that.
If you have several error codes they will pop up one after another on the cluster. The codes will erase themselves after the issue has been corrected. If they do not. You could remove the jumper wire, disconnect your battery for 60 seconds, reconnect the battery and then reinstall the jumper wire to see if the codes have disappeared.
In the case of the bike from this video. No. The bike was not in running condition until the sensor was replaced. I have heard of people mentioning that the FI light had popped up on their bike and they continued to ride it but have never had a personal experience with a running bike having the FI light illuminated.
My SV1000 doesn't start anymore. I get all the lights/power but the fuel pump doesn't prime. I also can't get the bike in 'dealer mode' anymore, when I still could I got a C42 error. Anyone have an idea what it could be?
C42 usually anti theft. Possibly the ignition switch being faulty or you may have a case of the “green connector of death”. If you have an aftermarket ignition switch. That may be the cause. But I would check the connector from the wiring harness from the ignition switch. That connector tends to overheat and melt causing “the green connector of death” resulting in this issue. Let me know what you find.
@PASSIONBUILT Thanks for the quick reply! Ignition switch seems fine, green connector is good. The switch measures 100ohm resistance. And I've measured continuity to the ecu. Strange thing is that I cannot get the bike in dealer mode anymore.
Interesting. Check your clutch switch. Make sure it’s functioning. Check your fuses and relays. If all is good. I’d suggest checking wiring. Maybe something got in there and chewed up your wiring. Hopefully your ECU isn’t fried. It isn’t common but can happen.
@@PASSIONBUILT I've found the problem. In my case the problem was corrosion in the connector for the right clip on. This was on the pins for the killswitch. Cleaned it a little and the bike works again.
If you have a NON-OEM ignition switch. That could be your problem. Also another very common issue with the OEM ignition switch is the connector that attaches the ignition switch to the main harness melts. The connector is green in color. Google “SV650 green connector of death” and it can give you more details as to why the connector melts and such. Hope this helps. 👍🏼
yes I tried and this with the green one yes it's not even burned. I don't know what it has it could be a relay I don't know what it has, It started and after a meter two meters it stopped and hasn't started since then could you help please
Thanks! Helped me find out my tip over sensor was upside down!
Love to hear it! Glad you got your bike back up and running. Ride safe! 😎🏍️
Nice video mate, FYI the little minus that you mentioned is actually the indicator for the TPS, it should be sat in the middle which means that yours need slight adjustment down, a simple fix though.
Thanks Kev! A couple of people pointed out that I missed that. My mistake 😅
Is this the same codes for sv 1000 ?
Hey. Great video!
Can you do a tutorial how to fix this please? Cus i have tip over error too.
Thanks for the feedback. I don’t currently have a bike that needs that sensor replaced. It is located under your main seat and battery. Very easy to replace.
Mr Passionbuilt, have you had smoke coming from under the seat while the bike was idling and the smell of burning plastic ?? It happened after id had the tank up to replace my coolant reservoir.
Hey there. I’ve never had that issue with my bikes. I highly recommend pulling your seat and checking your battery and starter relay to make sure nothing touched that shouldn’t be touched. The common issue for smoke arising from under the seat / fairings is usually a failing rectifier. I would honestly check the rectifier first. If it smells burnt or has melted wiring. You will need to replace it. Hope this helps you figure out your issue.
@@PASSIONBUILT thank you for the response I've been at it all morning and I found the culprit! One of the hoses with making contact with the header of the rear cylinder. I'm going to check on the rectifier but I've already ridden it and everything is fine. No other symptoms
Awesome. Glad you were able to figure it out! Make sure you keep all wires and hoses clear of the headers. The headers get extremely hot and will melt / burn anything that touches them. Glad it was an easy fix for you though. Ride safe!
Thanks for your time and help. Gaz 😊
Thanks for watching!
Great video, but my problem seems to be intermittent. On start up, if the FI light is flashing, it won't start. If I turn it off & on, it might take a few times, but the blinking will stop and I can start it. This occasionally, and only, occurs at start up. I feel like putting it into diagnostic mode won't tell me anything UNLESS it is blinking, which is unpredictable.
Exactly what is happening to me. Just tried this trick and didn’t get a code.
You’re gonna have to keep trying to put it in mode. If it’s really that intermittent. I would also check your green connector coming off the ignition switch. Common problem on these bikes. Google “green connector of death”.
Thank you sir! That deserves a follow 👍🏼
Appreciate you watching!
Does this diagnostic procedure work on the sfv650 Gladius? Thank You!
I’m not too sure if it’s the same. I’ve never worked on a Gladius. All Suzuki’s do have a dealer mode procedure though. Good luck 🙂👍🏼
yes it does, My problem is it only turns on after riding for a while, can I hook up the jumper while the bike is running to throw up the code?
Will the red light turn off after addressing the code 49 (pair valve) ?
Are you eliminating the pair system or repairing it? If you block the pair system, I don’t think there is a way to turn off the code. If you’re repairing it. It should turn off the code once repaired and functioning.
Hi, Wich cable color do I have to put the jumper on sv1000 2005? Thx in advance.
Btw, for anyome with ABS, its under the rightside of the tank
This sv1000s is showing something like 002 code.. Cant see the first.. Sounds like running on one silinder.. No v twin sound anymore and don't idle..
Do you have a 180 rear tire on your sv 650?
No
What if you have multiple codes. Do it cycle thru on its own?
I believe so. It’s been a while since I’ve had a bike come in with multiple codes.
I was installing SpeedoHealer. And lifted up the tank... But I forgot it was full so I noticed something smelling like fuel. And it leaked out somewhere near the battery ...
It's a 2020 SV650. You think it'll dry out and work? Because I wanna ride the bike after the install!
Where is this sensor located btw?
LOL I found the problem!!! I had the ECU and (unknown to me) the sensor hanging by the side of the bike to have better access to the wires for splicing...
So yes of course now it makes sense, if the sensor is dangling by the side the bike thinks it fell over!
I thought it was a “fault indicator” light not “fuel injection” light.
Hey there. The FI light is a warning indicator for fuel injected bikes that are having issues that may impede the bikes fuel injection system from operating correctly. While at the end of the day it technically is a “fault indicator” light. It actually stands for “fuel injection”.
It’s like a check engine light on a car. It doesn’t actually mean you need to check your engine. It means that something with the vehicles emissions system is not functioning correctly.
Does this work for the 3rd gen as well?
Honestly. I’m not sure.
@@PASSIONBUILT After a quick google search, it turns out it is, so anybody reading this, yes, it works the same on a 3rd gen ! Thanks for the video :)
I was in an accident riding my 2007 SV650. I am trying to get it back on the road. It’s been sitting for almost two years. I did the bypass to try and find out why it wasn’t starting. I can hear the fuel injection winding up but nothing happens when I push the start button. The only code I get it c 00. Battery is new and fully charged. All fuses good. Lights, turn signal, and horn work. But nothing from my starter and no other codes. Any hints?
Is there a dash mark ( - ) in front of the c 00 code?
@@PASSIONBUILT Sorry, I’m an idiot. I did not see a response. I was able to figure out that it was the clutch switch. Which I disassembled cleaned the contacts reassembled and now it’s perfectly. Thanks again for your reply.
Hello, I don't seem to be able to get my into dealer mode, any thoughts? Followed the procedure to the t but to no avail
Are you sure your jumper wire made contact?
@@PASSIONBUILT Yeah, I bought the dealer mode switch to be sure. I'm not getting any FI on the LCD display, just the little oil can. Any thoughts?
Hey man have a question could you tell me what the fi light code -c00 on a 2007 sv1000 can't find info anywere
Messaged you on IG but I’m going to answer this to help out the community in the comments section.
C00 means no fault
The dash ( - ) in front of it is your TPS (throttle position sensor) indicator. If it is up it means that you need to adjust your TPS sensor down. If it is down that means your TPS needs to be adjusted up. Once you’ve adjusted it in the correct position. You will just have the C00 code on the screen with no dash ( - ) in front of it.
Hope this helps 🙂👍🏼
Throttle position sensor. If the dash is in middle followed by letter C and zeros is the correct position. If the dash is on top or bottom then it needs to be adjusted.
The white plug on mine had a metal cap with 6 pins going into each hole. Is that supposed to be there?
Interesting. Never heard of that. Please send a picture of it to sales@motopartssource.com
I would like to see what you’re talking about.
@@PASSIONBUILT Never mind that was the wrong plug
Lol okay. I was really interested in what modification was done to that plug. But glad you figured it out.
I have a C40 error coming up on my 2004 sv650 K4. Have you any idea how to clear it?
Have you removed your air box recently?
Hello good Morning
I have a problem in my sv that I have not been able to solve, it marks Fi and when scanning
What code does the bike show when it is put into dealer mode?
the bike shows code C41
At the end of the video I have all of the codes and what they stand for. C41 is for the fuel pump relay. Check that first.
@@PASSIONBUILT agradezco tu apoyo, ya valido con el manual de servicio y se cambio el relay pero el problema persiste, quizá como dice el manual mi problema sea la centralita.
Saludos!
is this the same for 2007 models
Yes it is.
How does one identify the model code for which year an sv650 is?
Ps: i know that this doesn't relate to the video, but I'd really appreciate help on this
What year SV650 do you have?
@@PASSIONBUILT I've got the sfv650 but no idea which year it is. That's what I am trying to find out
Look up your vin number. SFV otherwise known as, Gladius, wasn't produced many years so I'm sure it will be easy to figure out.
@@PASSIONBUILT The haynes manual has a thorough description of the differences in Gen 1 & 2 model years. If you can find the original paint, that's a big help also, because there might be 2 different yellows but one would have an aluminum color frame and the other a black, etc. With Gladius, do the VIN.
Thanks buddy, peace!!
No problem at all. Hope it helped you figure out what’s going on with your SV. Please subscribe to the channel if you haven’t already 🙂
Nothing changes and I get no code, why could that be? I have a 2003 sv650n
Exactly what I needed! Thanks!!!!
No problem at all. Hope it helps you figure out whatever is wrong with your SV! If you haven’t subscribed to the channel. Please subscribe. It really helps 🙂
Me it displays CHEC ??
I have a 2003 sv1000 n rn I’m having trouble finding out why it keeps flashing the FI light when I’m cruising around, it’ll make the bike die until I hold the clutch in and give it gas. I’ve ran the codes many times and it just shows -c00. If someone could help it’d be very appreciated.
You need to adjust your TPS. The dash before the C00 code indicates the TPS being off. You can put it into dealer mode while adjusting it and it will go away when the TPS is in the correct position. I believe Kevs Shed made a video on that.
brilliant!
i have code c42 how can i solve this problem
What if you have several errors? How to switch to the next code? And how to erase the error?
If you have several error codes they will pop up one after another on the cluster. The codes will erase themselves after the issue has been corrected. If they do not. You could remove the jumper wire, disconnect your battery for 60 seconds, reconnect the battery and then reinstall the jumper wire to see if the codes have disappeared.
Hey my problem is c17 but I dont see the solution please help me
Diagnosing over the internet is never fun. Check out the SVRiders forum. There are a few posts regarding that code. Good luck 👍🏼
So the bike will run and drive fine even if the light came on?
In the case of the bike from this video. No. The bike was not in running condition until the sensor was replaced. I have heard of people mentioning that the FI light had popped up on their bike and they continued to ride it but have never had a personal experience with a running bike having the FI light illuminated.
@@PASSIONBUILT Yup, that's me
lol sometimes you just gotta keep going! Hope you get your FI light taken care of. Please subscribe to the channel. It really helps it grow 🙂👍🏼
Hello, my problem is that the whole screen turns off, it doesn’t turn on anything, only the directional lights, the high light
Your instrument cluster LCD display isn’t working at all?
My SV1000 doesn't start anymore. I get all the lights/power but the fuel pump doesn't prime. I also can't get the bike in 'dealer mode' anymore, when I still could I got a C42 error. Anyone have an idea what it could be?
C42 usually anti theft. Possibly the ignition switch being faulty or you may have a case of the “green connector of death”. If you have an aftermarket ignition switch. That may be the cause. But I would check the connector from the wiring harness from the ignition switch. That connector tends to overheat and melt causing “the green connector of death” resulting in this issue. Let me know what you find.
@PASSIONBUILT Thanks for the quick reply!
Ignition switch seems fine, green connector is good. The switch measures 100ohm resistance. And I've measured continuity to the ecu.
Strange thing is that I cannot get the bike in dealer mode anymore.
Interesting. Check your clutch switch. Make sure it’s functioning. Check your fuses and relays. If all is good. I’d suggest checking wiring. Maybe something got in there and chewed up your wiring. Hopefully your ECU isn’t fried. It isn’t common but can happen.
@@PASSIONBUILT I've found the problem. In my case the problem was corrosion in the connector for the right clip on. This was on the pins for the killswitch.
Cleaned it a little and the bike works again.
That’s awesome. Glad it was an easy fix! Ride safe my friend!
Bravo! Tk
Hoped this video helped you! If it did, please subscribe to the channel. 🙂👍🏼
Thanks man
No problem at all. Love your user name btw. Big DragonBall fan 😎👍🏼
It was -c23 for me too, and then I realized the plug isn't plugged in. Otherwise -c23 = tip over sensor.
Gr8 help bro
Glad it helped. Please subscribe to the channel and check out my other SV videos. Tons of helpful content here 😃
Meanwhile my bike cranks well, fuel pump primes, I have spark, and it absolutely will not start. No codes at all, just cranks and backfires.
Same
I'm assuming this works on SV1000?
Yes it does.
anti-theft ignition switch how do you fix this ??? tsk
If you have a NON-OEM ignition switch. That could be your problem. Also another very common issue with the OEM ignition switch is the connector that attaches the ignition switch to the main harness melts. The connector is green in color. Google “SV650 green connector of death” and it can give you more details as to why the connector melts and such. Hope this helps. 👍🏼
yes I tried and this with the green one yes it's not even burned. I don't know what it has it could be a relay I don't know what it has, It started and after a meter two meters it stopped and hasn't started since then could you help please
I don't know if I could send a video of how it works and what doesn't work
why that annoying background music? Better without it.
Sorry bud 🤷🏻♂️