In my experience they all deal with them boost issues, I the tq limiter to limit fuel not the smoke maps, as the PID doesn’t go nuts then. Over 60mg you usually have to touch the n75 maps as the turbo just saturates. Anyway great videos, it’s so hard to piece all of this information together when you start.
@@kovacspis specifically the gt1646 used on most pd105’s, you see in the logs the spike of 1.3-1.4 bar of boost and then it struggling to follow request, this is PID control cutting in. I honestly found using the TQ limiter solves by accident, but I’ve since heard (not checked) but the PID controller uses torque input. So by using the smoke maps to maintain afr although simpler when tuning actually creates this issue. Not had the issue with 17 frame and up turbos so could simply be a saturation issue I’ve found a bodge around. But like anything tuning do your own tests and find out as a lot of factors play into these results. I run these turbos at peak 1250mbar of boost and get an intial spike of 1300mbar and then will stay within 100mbar of request for the entire rev range.
Love this series you got going, keep them coming! I learn a lot, Im coming from a aftermarket tuning "world" and I just started taking the time to reading up on OEM tuning and bought ols licens and I'm vacuuming yt/forums etc for useful information. Thank you very much for making these! I've have a couple of question if you could answer I would really appreciate it How long have you been remappning/tuning oem ecus? Do you have any useful advice for a beginner just started? Do you also tune aftermarket ecus? If not why? ( I've asked other tuners, and the majority haven't, I find it fascinating why that is) Do you ever use any other software other than winols for ex ghidra for reverse engineering and finding maps, doing "custom" setups etc?
Hi bud, Thanks for the comment! Ive been working with oem ecus longer then i know myself haha, and yep i came from working with aftermarket ecus before i started on oem ecus, most go in the other way round. Id say its best to start at the aftermarket and learn about engines and engine setup first, then come into oem. I use ghidra quite alot, also have some more oem level software that I have to use too, winols was always the hobby level but its turned into the back bone of the business since I started doing this for other companies etc.
Yes sure, I’m abit rough on this subject, I rarely use one on or off the dyno, regularly flash cars out and about while on development too, most new cars only have a long first flash to patch the ecu, then it’s sub 50sec flashes
@@Vincent-cc8xo gys flash is a good choice, I currently use the snap on charger but you basically want anything that can hold around 60amps for the bmw models
My current bsu is only 50 amps thinking I'm safer either benching it, or removing the fan relay, or unplug it if I can get to it for now until I get the gys
In my experience they all deal with them boost issues, I the tq limiter to limit fuel not the smoke maps, as the PID doesn’t go nuts then.
Over 60mg you usually have to touch the n75 maps as the turbo just saturates.
Anyway great videos, it’s so hard to piece all of this information together when you start.
Was this specific to the pd his car has (gen, valves, ecu, elements, etc), or generic knowledge/experience?
@@kovacspis specifically the gt1646 used on most pd105’s, you see in the logs the spike of 1.3-1.4 bar of boost and then it struggling to follow request, this is PID control cutting in.
I honestly found using the TQ limiter solves by accident, but I’ve since heard (not checked) but the PID controller uses torque input. So by using the smoke maps to maintain afr although simpler when tuning actually creates this issue.
Not had the issue with 17 frame and up turbos so could simply be a saturation issue I’ve found a bodge around.
But like anything tuning do your own tests and find out as a lot of factors play into these results. I run these turbos at peak 1250mbar of boost and get an intial spike of 1300mbar and then will stay within 100mbar of request for the entire rev range.
Just a pd105 currently!
Love this series you got going, keep them coming! I learn a lot,
Im coming from a aftermarket tuning "world" and I just started taking the time to reading up on OEM tuning and bought ols licens and I'm vacuuming yt/forums etc for useful information.
Thank you very much for making these!
I've have a couple of question if you could answer I would really appreciate it
How long have you been remappning/tuning oem ecus?
Do you have any useful advice for a beginner just started?
Do you also tune aftermarket ecus? If not why? ( I've asked other tuners, and the majority haven't, I find it fascinating why that is)
Do you ever use any other software other than winols for ex ghidra for reverse engineering and finding maps, doing "custom" setups etc?
Hi bud,
Thanks for the comment!
Ive been working with oem ecus longer then i know myself haha, and yep i came from working with aftermarket ecus before i started on oem ecus, most go in the other way round. Id say its best to start at the aftermarket and learn about engines and engine setup first, then come into oem.
I use ghidra quite alot, also have some more oem level software that I have to use too, winols was always the hobby level but its turned into the back bone of the business since I started doing this for other companies etc.
Thank u😊
A great video series. To confirm, OEM setting was to use MAP sensor for load, not MAF?
Yeah this one was set to map, usually maf so took me by surprise!
Any chance you could do a quick video on battery support units and what is the bare minimum of amps you need to safely flash a car thanks
Yes sure, I’m abit rough on this subject, I rarely use one on or off the dyno, regularly flash cars out and about while on development too, most new cars only have a long first flash to patch the ecu, then it’s sub 50sec flashes
@@Phil-cooper much appreciated was thinking about the gys flash etc
@@Vincent-cc8xo gys flash is a good choice, I currently use the snap on charger but you basically want anything that can hold around 60amps for the bmw models
My current bsu is only 50 amps thinking I'm safer either benching it, or removing the fan relay, or unplug it if I can get to it for now until I get the gys
Could you Mr Muscle treat the old turbo and film and show how it's done anyways? Sounds shady but I assume it works if done correctly.
Yeah sure! Turbo is off now so I’d have to show it on the bench but can be done!
@@Phil-cooper Sure, would work also. Just include a snippet of how it's done in the next video ;)