How To Repair or Replace a P-Trap or Sink Drain Pipe
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- Опубликовано: 31 окт 2018
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Maxx shows you how to replace a P-Trap or drain pipe on your sink if it's leaking. It is so easy to do, do not call a plumber! For $3 you can have this fixed in 10 minutes. Just watch my video and follow along.
Be sure to take your old piece along, so you can match it up at the store, don't end up making 2 trips.
I may have put the plastic seal on the wrong direction for the pipe that attaches to the wall, so be sure to check your orientation on that part before tightening. If not, you'll have to pop it back out and spin it around.
P-Traps are so easy to fix, and very important to prevent sewer gas from creeping up the drain, but they are prone to rust out. So when yours starts dripping, replace it easily.
Try not to laugh too hard at my fumbling, it's tough to record and do this stuff at the same time. :)
Any repairs are made at your own risk, video is for informational purposes only
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Thank you. Easy once you use the correct tool.
TY for doing this vid. Now I feel confident about tackling it myself instead of calling a handyman or plumber when I don't have the $ to spare. I also appreciate how your vid is direct, to the point & very easy to understand. Kudos to you!
I've had a few opportunities over the years to make this repair, but today, I will be teaching my son to do it at our place, and this is a perfect primer to begin the lesson with. Subscribed, and thank you.
Thanks! I'm glad to be helpful.
Helpful thanks - and your heavy breathing made me feel like I did all the work!
It looks pretty simple. Thanks.
Now take it all apart and put the wall hole cover on the pipe that sticks into the wall first, then the nut, then the washer. That's the way it usually goes, it happens about every time. You forget to put a piece on in the proper order and then have to take it all apart again. We've all done it.
I’m having trouble getting the wall cover off.
Yeah that cover is missing , haha. Also, is there any way to glue it to the tiles for better looks and insulation?
Exactly where mine was leaking! Thank you!
Bruh mine just fucked up too
Thanks a lot. I had the exact same problem
Thanks lot I really appreciate your video help me and give me confidence
This was very helpful! Thanks for sharing!
Great video. Now I can fix my problem without having to pay someone else to!
Always good to dhoe e hug at you are doing on camera. Great to hear of another person who rents but still takes care of minor repairs. One of the reasons I rent is because it's not my responsibility to do this.....but it's hard to find responsible, trustworthey owners & property management people. Easier to just repair and maintain myself.
And they take forever to get anything done. Like you said, easier to do it yourself.
To That one 77: If you have the tools then do it.
Life saver! Thank you
Glad it helped!
Thanks for doing this video
Dude just saved 500 hundred dollars!
Thanks! Super helpful!
Hey this helped me out with a different problem.
Just moved in to a new place and without warning the sink trap fell off and water got everywhere. Luckily I had a pipe wrench and was able to twist those whatcha ma call its to secure it to the rest of the pipe.
Tools and equipment are the problem solver.
Thank you! Your video will definitely help me complete this task. I'm renting and the restroom sink trap is metal and leaking, making a mess. I like the plastic option best because the metal parts are $42 just for the two bottom trap pieces.
Same reason I went with plastic, the metal is nice, but much more money, and certainly not to replace on a rental, if it's out of your pocket. I'm glad the video helped.
Thank you 🌞
Nice Bro! Thanks!
Thanks, man! Your video encouraged me to fix my clogged sink. There was a huge nail in there from the previous owner probably trying to clear another clog. Anyway, just removed the nail and the gunk and put it back together like new.
It's not magic, it's not mysterious. It's just metal and plastic. Some people think they can't do it for whatever reason, but simple stuff just about anyone can do themselves. I'm glad this video helped you to get your sink working again!
Thank you!
Your the best,Bro
Thanks Internet dad!
It was the water in the previously intact U-bend keeping the sewer gases out. With that hole in the bottom, there's no water because it just drains out immediately. With a empty P-trap, it doesn't matter whether you leave disassembled or not, the gases can get in anyway. Just fix it as soon as possible.
What is the technical terms for the brass hardware shown here?
Your bathroom looks exactly like mine down to the sink and wall tile color.
Same man, wtf lol
That's that 1950's ish style.
Just a quick question. If its just a small crack in the p-trap pipe,could i possibly just use a sealant?or would that not work
As long as it's not on the bottom bend, you could probably even just tape it up, but understand this will still leak, you'll still want a bucket under it and depending on where the crack is, may allow sewer gas to come out. I'd not suggest doing this, however it's probably better then nothing until you can get it fixed.
Nine: Use a good putty. Check the putty videos.
this is a good video except my bathroom sink at the end goes from a p trap into a a j trap (if thats a thing) and then into the pipe. the j trap is metal and for some reason the last plumber didnt use the slip joint nut but a Hose Clamp. I have cleaned out the entrie pipe but im having problems retaching it with the hose clamp. it just keeps falling out or severly leakinging. The slip joint nut i have in reserve from home depot is plastic but the j is metal. I've tried downgrading to plastic but the slip join nut just wont tighten up into the j.
need help
That's a tough one, without seeing a photo, I'm not sure how to advise. But I wouldn't think you should ever see a hose clamp on a sink drain. That may be one where you need to get a professional, because it's possible it can be reconfigured and eliminate some of it. Maybe another viewer/subscriber will be able to help you more. Best of luck.
I dropped my toothbrush down my bathroom sink drain. I looked at the j trap and there’s no space to remove the j trap because of the shelf in my vanity. Any ideas? Should I cut out part of the shelf where the j trap is?
If you dropped your toothbrush down the drain, I'm going to assume you probably don't have a drain stopper. So, maybe you can fish the tooth brush out with a "2-in-1 Magnetic Pickup Tool". If you don't know what that is, google it. Harbor Freight sells them for $4, or amazon probably has them too. If that won't work, I'd take a few minutes to really study sink, check it from all angles, someone installed it in there, so it has to come out somehow. If you're not seeing it, sleep on it and look again the next day. If all else fails, you can always cut the shelf, but I bet there is another way of doing it, that you're not seeing. Best of luck with it, let me know if you get it.
Silly question but in the end, the fox looks crooked. Any reason not to push it more against the wall to make it all straight?
So, I did push it back flush with the wall after the video. So that's a great question. But sometimes on older places, without custom cutting things it may be a little off like the end of this video, just make sure it doesn't leak and it'll still be functional though, just not aesthetic.
@@LarpMix well I guess if it works even though it looks crooked then I guess thats fine. Idk why RUclips autocorrect whatever I said to "fox"
@@LarpMixYeah, just cut an inch off the end of that long pipe and it will go in further. Then you can straighten it.
6:16 how/why does the white pipe stay connected to the grey pipe without it being threaded just by tighting it ? mine just started falling down do I need a new gasket ?
There is a hard plastic piece inside the screw on part, held on by compression. Yours should have one. At 5:40 in the video, you can see me holding it. I hold that helps.
A question ？
I found the The leaking right between the sink base and rubber gasket, which has already hardened of aging. As the waste seats are all metal, I have tried hard but couldn't remove the nut and the tube underneath away from the pipe. It seems all rusted together. Is there any way to get the nut and the pipe unscrewed and taken apart？
Thx.
You could try spraying it with something like PB blaster or a 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid to loosen it up, let it sit for awhile when you do this. If it's all metal, like you say, you could also try a blow torch on it, to heat it up a bit, but be very mindful of stuff that can melt and how hot you're actually getting it or whatever. it's doesn't need to be glowing to loosen up. Try tapping it with a hammer also, but not too hard. If none of that will work, get a good hacksaw and saw it off. You'll probably have to go to the store and buy a who new sink base, and all that stuff, be sure to get some plumber's putty also for when you install it. There are videos online for all of that. If it seems like more than you're comfortable with though, this could be one of those times to call a plumber or handyman. Good luck!
@@LarpMix
Thank you so much for the info and for your dedication!
I didn' t expect someone would answer my question 🙏
For the love of god, please tell how me how to get the top gray pipe to stay tight, I took it off to clean it and now it wont stay on, I dont even know how it would stay put in the first place because the only think between the sink and the pipe is an o-ring, how does that make it stay?
You should just be able to tighten it up, hold the top nut in place and twist the pipe part. If you took the drain out though when you were cleaning, the plumbers putty may need redone in the sink, so you can reseat the drain. I hope that helps...
That's wonderful. But what if the one you are repairing is 60 years old and the pieces literally collapse in your hand like aluminium foil and the part screwed into the pipe is rusted tight as if welded?
If it's metal, you can try using something like PB Blaster on it, to see if it'll come loose. You can also try to heat it up with a blowtorch, but only if you have enough room, ventilation and feel comfortable with it. You could also try hacksawing just the nut part off. At the very least, I'd put some penetrating lube on it, to see if it can get loose. It's really hard to offer suggestions without seeing it, but if you feel comfortable with any of my suggestions I made, give it a try, but it's certainly at your own risk if you decide to try. If you feel your in over your head, it may be time to call a plumber. Try to get a few free quotes though if you can, plumbers can vary immensely in price.
@@LarpMix thanks a lot.
dady no it doesn't drop off, i removed both washer and i cant get it off.. its a 50 yo house so and also the closetest but least used sink tot he water heater so i expect build up
but help.. how do i get it off?
Same
I'm doing this tomorrow. Mine's metal and I own, but I'm STILL getting the plastic.
I hope it works out for you!
I COULD NOT TWIST OFF THE NUT THAT HOLDS THE P TRAP TO THE WALL. ANY IDEAS?
Give it a good spray of something like PB blaster and let it soak in. If it's metal and tile you could try a little heat from a blowtorch. You could also probably carefully hacksaw it off, if there is space. If you're not re-using it, it only matters that the pipe is not harmed, don't worry about the nut. Good luck with it, a dremel with a cutting head or anything similar could do the job too, but take it real slow, don't get into the pipe.
@@LarpMix I MANAGED TO GET IT LOOSE WITHOUT ANY SPRAYS WITH A PIPE WRENCH.
Nothing is as easy as this appears to be when it involves me. The pipe going into the wall has disintegrated and is broke flush with the fitting in the wall. What would one need to reem out the pipe within a piece of pipe ? There is nothing protruding to get a hold of.
Someone else may know better, but to me that sounds like you'll have to dig into the wall a bit and it might be a bigger job. If it's on the first floor and your basement has an open ceiling, you might be able to access it from underneath and replace a larger section to make it easier and less invasive. But once again, that's getting into a lot more work. Good luck with it, but that might be time to call a handyman or plumber.
You've likely already solved your issue, but for anybody else reading this with a similar problem (the same thing happened to me) my fix was to liberally spray CLR into the pipe and let it sit for a bit, a few times, to eat away at the gunk holding the piece of broken-off pipe inside the other pipe, then I just went at it with a large screw driver with a motion as to extract the broken piece out (not push it further in). The broken piece broke further, in half, and the extraction was actually very easy.
How big is the channellock?
I'm not sure exactly, you'd have to try to gauge based on my hand size in the video. But I'd think a middle-sized one should open big enough. It should say on them what size, I believe these p-traps are 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 inch, so a channel lock that can handle that size should be fine.
Nice video but I like to use the sch 40 pvc p traps.
The drain needs to be lined up properly. The end going into the wall needs to be set in further. No need for thread tape, the seal is created through the taper locks.
My personal experience with the plastic/pvc pipes is after a few months of use the drain emits a gross smell.
Do you have to shut off the water to do this
No, this is just the drain side, you shouldn't have to shut anything off unless you're nervous the faucet might get bumped on while you're working on it. Some water will come out of the p-trap when you pull it off, so have some towels.
@@LarpMix Thanks, it's fixed. Thank goodness it was only tissue stuck in the stopper🙄🥴😬👍😂
In 2020, you cant find disposable latex gloves. You just have to get your hands dirty.
Wouldn't it be beneficial to clean the threads of the part in the wall to help seal it better? I'm asking, not trolling.
If they're dirty for sure. But it wouldn't hurt either way, you definitely want it to seal well.
Well I wished you would have showed the wrapping of the tape!
Sorry I didn't show that part. You want to wrap it the opposite direction that you would be turning to tighten it. You wrap the male end or part that screws in, on the threads. I usually wrap it 3-4 times and then tighten. If it seems like it's coming off or loose while tightening, that means you need to wrap it the other way. Once you get it, it's pretty easy to do. There are definitely videos out there showing how to do this, if you want to check those out also.
Thanks Internet dad
Its called a U bend... because it's shaped like a u.
What if you can’t get that whole pee trap out of the wall? Mine is rusted in there?
You could try spraying it with something like PB blaster or a 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid to loosen it up, let it sit for awhile when you do this.
Turn the water on before you end the video please!
I can appreciate the trust issues, but I can assure you, 5 years later there has been no issue with this repair.
At 2:29 minutes: It's all about the tools, equipment, and proper sizing: It may look simple; but the attachments (nuts and threads) need to be *perfect* or you'll fart and frig with disappointment.
We got the Trap off but the Joiner has snapped off and something is inside the threads
I hope you figured it out, but if something broke, you should easily be able to get a replacement for it. A wire brush is good for cleaning threads up.
@@LarpMix thanks so much you're very thoughtful to answer. Whoever worked on the plumbing last used one inch pipes instead of one and a half inch pipes and they welded the pipe together with the nut
Well that explains it, I guess. I hope you got it all sorted out though.
@@LarpMix you're so nice! Once we get the vanity sorted, fixtures ordered and a new sink, we will have a plumber install the pipes. We have had many bazinga moments in this old house, reverse engineering other people's non standard solutions and we don't want it to leak or break off in the wall 😉
Now do it where the entire drain and p-trap is behind a pedestal sink 5 inches from the wall where it's impossible to get your hand, much less channel locks onto it....
That really sucks. Save yourself the frustration though, just move the whole thing out of the way to start with. Might be a good time to just get a new sink set up.
The wall portion, I just couldn’t figured out how to take it out, please help.
It should just pull out. There may be a cap that pops off, then you can either unscrew the pipe, or it may just pull out. Sorry for the late reply, I hope that helps. Don't force anything thought, you don't want to break a pipe off in your wall.
@@LarpMix ours was welded by the former owner. It looks like it's plumber time. It's hard to trust those guys. The last one who is here Twisted the pipe inside the wall and had to cut open the wall to replace it. The ones before destroyed the plumbing trying to snake a toilet they refuse to go on the roof as I directed. $1,600 and opening up the wall again.
"I rent this house so I don't care." As a landlord I totally agree with you! Just you replacing it makes me happy.
Slumlord
I have the same ugly green tile in my shower.
Haha, it's actually blue... That's just how bad/old it is. A bathroom remodel has been on my to do list for a while.
He should've let it leak on. He's renting the house. He's said
You know, I really could have just put a bucket under it, or probably sprayed flex seal all over it. Definitely an option.
My wife has eye issues and she accidentally pooped in the sink and got a huge hair clog in there from how hairy she is. Had same issue. Got a little in my mouth when the trap let loose. All replaced now thanks to you bro! Thanks great video
Hairy, poor eyesight, tall enough to poop in a sink ... are you sure a bear isn't sneaking around in your wife's pajamas?
See, it’s called a P trap. And you shouldn’t use the tape. It CAN “hurt.”
Only if you tighten it with tools
DON'T USE TAPE ON PVC