Carrier Infinity or Bryant Evolution ECM inducer motor tear down
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2015
- Carrier Infinity inducer motor tear down
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Good video. Enjoyed
I just replaced a bearing on that same motor, only to find out that it was totally fine. Because the motor is so heavy, it started sagging causing the fan wheel to touch the inside of the assembly when spinning. I lifted the motor less than a 1/4 inch and the rattle disappeared. Hope this helps some people out there. An HVAC guy wanted to replace the assembly for $1,400.
I have the same unit that makes noise when it ramps up and has do this since day one (2008). Have tried to oil the bearings but hard to get into the spaces. Guess I will just live with it till it gives up.
How did you raise the motor? I have shimmed it, but it still makes noise during part of the ramp up cycle. It seems very sensitive to how it is adjusted. Thanks.
@@andrewsnider4098 it IS very sensitive. It took me a few tries. I found out that it is better to raise the motor itself, not the bracket.
Like your videos. Very informative. Thanks.
I attempt test the motor without furnace control board, so I connect 24v to 1 of the signal wire and burnt the PCB of this motor. Just wondering to take it apart and try my luck. This video is helpful
Great video
The rubber washer are actually isolators, to prevent sound transfer and the shims are basically ballast for vibration and also help to reduce noise. The concept is the vibration is reduced because instead of being able to throw a light fan motor around, it now has to move a mass of weight making it much harder to vibrate. If you wanted to do an experiment run the blower with & without the weights and you will be able to see the difference. You could also intentionally un-balance the impeller by removing or adding weight and observe the results..the weights actually do work.
Dont really know much of these ecm vent motors but i had a trane TUYD80R9V3VS give me an inducer error code of 3 flashes. Seems like the same assembly and ecm motor. Is the flame suppose to shut off with the pressure switch hoses off? If I remember correctly they had a tee to the gas valve and burner assembly
My guess is the sane as Nicholas, the plates minimize the resonant noise on the plastic housing.
Do you have a part# for the rubber isolators? My fan makes a scraping noise but it goes away when I push up on the inducer motor. Thanks.
How did you remove the wheel. I can’t get mine off. It’s cracked and I have the extra fan to replace it just can’t get it off? There’s an Alan key on the side but that doesn’t do anything.
These shaded pole motors with bushings get noisy when the bushings become worn or lack lubrication. The motor still works, and there's nothing wrong with the control electronics, the noise is coming from the bushings/shaft. Ours is doing it intermittently now, mostly near the end of a heating cycle, and my plan is to pull the unit out so I can get a few drops of heavy oil into the bushings. Also, lightly tapping on ours quiets it down. Oiling it might give us another year, maybe two, before we have to drop $350 on it. Good to see how it looks apart, although the actual dismantling of the motor housing was what I tuned in for. Mine's a GE, says it was made in the USA, fwiw.
Hi, just wondering if yours is still working. How oiling work? Ours is starting to have the same problem and tapping quiets it down too.
The noise in mine, appears to be an alignment problem. By physically adjusting the alignment the noise disappears. Are there replacements for the bushings?
i like it. i take random parts off all day long then throw them away. i guess i should be cracking some of these things open, but when i get home at night im ready to sit down. keep doing these videos so i dont have to. LOL
I have rhe same motor on my carrier furnace. Had ducts cleaned. And upon cleaning the insides of the furnace the inducer motor was oily and a bit of smoke waa coming off of it. The couple blk capacitors on the back of the board are super hot and smoke was coming from thst area. Any idea about the oil present and if the capacitors or resistors are supposed get that hot. Motor turns freely. And quiet. Thanks.
Most likely the caps busted. The whole assembly needs to be replaced
Can u replace just the ecm motor without the housing or is it sold as a whole kit?
Have to replace the assembly
Do you know what the replacement is for a HC23CE116? I think I have a bad motor and cant find a new one to put in. has this part been replaced by something else? Great video! Huge help!
Nice tear down. I think they are using those metal plates as a heat sink to keep the motor cool. Not the best design and could be an afterthought.
Another thought is motor noise. ECM motors make a bunch of weird noises and vibrations. They can usually be quieted down by changing the motor mass which moves the resonant frequency.
@@jima3129 My understanding is it's a two or three speed ECM motor, not true VS. It's used for the efficiency number.
I have this exact same inducer and found out today it's $1000 to replace. >< I'm going to order HC23CE116 from amazon and use the ECM motor (exact match) from that and put it on the current housing and fan. Save $300 at least.
So if the motor spins and has not failed, what makes the noise in the unit when the noise starts?? Can a little bit of zoom oil or triflow fix the problem (as in maintenance??).
It could be worn out bearings or it could be water in the bottom of the fan housing. I had a problem with water in the bottom of the fan housing.
I used an Allen ranch to take the key out but still having issues taking off the wheel without cracking it. Any suggestions?
Probably too late now, but I had the same problem. I put some penetrating oil on the top of the shaft and it seems to have helped. I used some wooden shims, similar to paint stirs, under opposite sides of the wheel, and slowly worked it up. I did find a bit of rust on the shaft after getting the wheel off.
Can you buy the motor/control board separately or even just the control board??? I believe something on the control board fails due to heating up. I have two motors and both run for a short length of time but error due to something over heating on the board.
@@drlava641 What was wrong with the coupler and how did you fix it?
Hello, my inducer wheel broke and it’s stuck to the shaft. Any recommendations on how to remove it?
Disregard.. I sprayed some WD-40, let it sit for 2 hours and gently tapped it down and then used a vise grip to pull it off.
How do you remove the motor & circuit board from the housing without cracking the plastic???
It comes apart very easily. There is an allen key in the fan side of the shaft.
I wish I knew, I cracked mine. But only a little.
Heat up the solder and using desoldering wick suck up the solder on the 3 areas that connects the circuit board to the motor. Don't force it when the solder is melted it and out of those places it will slowly come off.
Is there a way to test these with a regular meter? Or with a tech mate ?
This is the answer for you. ruclips.net/video/wYHD8R5KFRE/видео.html
Those shim plates act like a radiator for either the motor shaft or motor by drawing heat away
I need one of these motors, where can I get a used or cheap one.
Try the internet
What error do you get?? 42. I just replaced mine with a local used one and now my furnace is running well.
I need that fan wheel. Wanna sell it to me?
So my inducer is making an awful sound and the furnace tech tried to shim it to no avail. I am looking to just get the genteq motor part itself, but you mentioned replacing the rubber isolators. Where could I reliably source these? Also that seal on the motor shaft between the motor and blower that you mentioned has a small air gap, is there a replacement for that available too? I appreciate any help. Thank you.
Hi Stephen. Just curious if you found the part# for the rubber isolators? If I push up on the motor the scraping noise goes away. I assume the fan wheel is rubbing intermittently. Thanks.
About 45 years in the residential HVAC biz . Even in the Chicago area not one person will ever recoup the money they spend on these modulating BS. The first cost is almost impossible to recoup. Now add in a thousand buck repair out of warranty.
Modulating is for comfort, not saving energy. The near continuous operation when properly sized and controlled.
Ya i wouldn't recommend buying one because of the repair costs. Not only that, you need a $500+ proprietary thermostat to fully take advantage of these furnaces.
2-stage with a psc or shaded pole inducer is the highest i would ever go. And not a carrier, their parts are way too expensive.
These things are so noisy! (Vibrations ... bbrrrrrrrRRRRRRRRRR...)
Ours hasn't broken yet, it's got to be like 15 years old. But it's always been noisy.
Okay, yup, it just broke recently.
Sadly the values were burnt off some of the SMD resistors so I was unable to fix it. There was also a small SOT23 size component (transistor?) that was cracked in half.
It appears that, somehow, condensation got inside and caused a flashover.
It was way too expensive to replace the inducer unit, so we replaced the entire system! (The system was 18 years old, so it was liable to have other failures soon enough anyways. Didn't want to waste money.)
Also, as of note, although the whole unit looks the same, the part number is different than the one you show, and the control board is slightly different. It only has one large capacitor, compared to two on yours.
Do you have the water shed tray over the control board housing??
Would be more helpful if you actually knew anything about how it works. Anyone can take it apart.
I do refrigeration, ammonia etc. I install furnaces on the side. Look into the new goodman 98 %. I have done 20 plus Infinity's,That goodman aint no joke. I have never ever herd a furnace as quit as that goodman. My friend works for a Trane dealer, helped me install two of them this weekend. His jaw dropped. And they don't have that ECM bullshit either. Ill make a video.
Over Charger I think you have inhaled too many refrigerants to say Goodman is quite lol 😆
ECM is no joke. I run 24 hrs a day and my bill has reduced by $35 AVG/mo in electricity. May have to replace the control module eventually but heck over 15-20 years THAT PAYS FOR A BRAND NEW FURNACE AND AC...OVER $6000!!!!!