Hello, I'm installing an Ecobee onto my Carrier Infinity (same control board). Previously was wired to ABCD, I'm rewiring from ABCD to standard terminals but still not sure on the SW1 settings. Should I match what you have in this video for the standard terminal settings? My current SW1 settings are the same EXCEPT SW1-3 is ON (yours is OFF). However, from your talking points it sounds like I need to turn SW1-2 to ON and SW-4-2 to ON for the Ecobee? I've been reaching out Carrier, local guys and haven't had any help, really appreciate your time and this video!
Go with the Connex/Infinity control in every case, if you have one of the nice units or high efficiency. There are functions the Ecobee cannot control that the Carrier themostat can.
I know I'm late, but you should do two things 1. set your ecobee to use the HVAC for fan control 2. Set switch 1-3 to ON so the thermostat can control 2-stage heating That's pretty much all you need. Just know you'll miss out on things like adjusting fan speed, calculating static pressure, and some other advanced features of your communicating system.
At 6:56 it says "SW 3 cannot be set for airflow higher than SW 2" Can you explain why that is? Is it just a recommendation or does it really not work to set SW 2 higher?
SW3 is not only for continuous fan, but also for cooling stage 1. Stage 2 cooling needs to be more airflow than stage 1 cooling for the evaporator will likely freeze up (and even if it does not, the dehumidification would be poor).
Hi, I have a Carrier Infinity 96 Model 58MVB080. This unit operates on propane since the original install. My air temperature at a vent closest to the furnace when the furnace is running on high is only 105 degrees F. Even if you wait until all the tin has heated up, it doesn't go any higher. I've had a service guy tell me this is normal. Shouldn't that temp be higher? My flame color is good. Very blue with no yellow. Also... new heat exchanger two years ago. Any thoughts? Thanks
There are a lot of factors involved. The first question would be what is the heat rise across the furnace? You need to measure the temperature of the air right before it enters the furnace and then also measure it right as it exits the furnace (not all the way downstream by the vents). The answer to that heat rise question will generate follow-up questions.
@@TECTubefilms Ok, thanks for the response. I will try and take those measurements asap... My basement access is restricted somewhat because I have an occupied suite.
I am trying to increase humidity as much as possible since I live in Denver and it is so arid. We sit between 9-16% of humidity every day. Are there any tricks to increase the humidity, turn off any de-humidification functions or any tips or tricks? Just as a note, we are having an Aprilaire humidifier installed in a few weeks, but would love more humidity in our system and maybe for other readers who find this.
Hello, I have a new 59TP6 100k btu furnace installed. I'm running a ecobee tstat. The installer left the DIP switches in the factory preset positions. How do I know if its actually using both stages of gas vavle and variable blower speed? Thank you Thank you
IF your installer wired both W1 and W2, then in the ecobee stat you can use the check-out mode to force it into stage 1 heat. Measure the duct temperature. Then once the temp is fairly stable and no longer increasing, you can then force it into stage 2 heat and see if the duct temp raises significantly. If the installer only wired W1 and the furnace is handling the staging, then you cannot test from the ecobee.
i had to come to yourube after 3 -4 techs not knowing whats the error is... heres the symptoms furnace had a power surge and everything dead except blower on all the time weither calling for heat or not. 1.inducer, ignition and safety wires going to connectors on gas valve 2. tested the saftey circuts all good to and from connector on gas valve 3. theres power on the main board going everywhere fuse is not blown 4. no power coming into inducer motor from gas valve connector but theres power from main board to gas valve connector 5. i took off wires to pressure switch .. tested both blue wires dangling in the air and both in and out have 15 volts 6. the diagnostic error light on gas valve used to flash a trouble code of "bad limit circut" but now no light at all
Need some help getting the humidfier control to work. FYI the outdoor unit is non-communicating, i.e. has no OAT sensor, and right now there is no OAT hooked up to the main board (I have an OAT sensor on order). Under this condition there is no OAT displayed on the UID (no surprise), I am given no option on the UID to set heating humidifier control to AUTO, and I never see the HUM terminal provide 24 VAC. Must an OAT be installed to set humidification to AUTO and to activate the 24VAC HUM terminal ? I have an OEM OAT sensor on order but in the meantime i connected a trim pot across the OAT terminals on the main board but the communicating thermostat (Bryant Evolution) still displays only __ for OAT. Is there some reason the OAT wouldn't start reading with a resistance across the OAT terminals? Do I need to power cycle something after connecting up the OAT sensor before the control board and UID will start reading OAT? Another question in this area: Does the communicating UID actually measure humidity, or does it simply infer humidity (and generate calls for heating humidification I suppose) based on other parameters such as OAT?
If you have a thermistor with the correct curve (10k Type II) or a resistor simulating an appropriate resistance in the acceptable range, then it should display on the stat.
Everything appears good, may have been a bad connection on the control board. The model plug was switched over, but appears not to be reading the make/model. When I do a system install it only reads Furnace 75 kbtu out. Any ideas?
That is a odd one. If you are a contractor, we would suggest contacting the local Carrier/Bryant technical support number for your area of the country. If you are a homeowner, we would suggest you contact your dealer who can then reach out to tech support, if needed.
I had a Carrier Infinity model 59 TN6B060C171114 furnace installed with the Carrier Thermostat Infinity System Control. When the Heat cycle begins, the Thermostat displays a "System fault, 126-High Heat Cycle Active" message. The technician told me that the problem is communication with the Motherboard and they have already requested a new Motherboard. I'm not convinced that's the problem. On the internet I found it to set the Furnace to "Efficiency" and turn it on "Low Heat Rise". But this last option does not have it to activate in my Thermostat. What do you think should be checked to correct this fault?
This is a relative new error code that was added to the software last year. There are lots of things that could cause it, but it essentially means your furnace is running too hot. Likely causes include insufficient airflow (which itself can have multiple causes) or high gas pressure.
The two settings you mentioned are in the installer setup screens and they are "band-aids" to increase airflow to avoid this alert message without solving the actually root issue.
I have a Carrier Performance 96 59TP6 and no techs in my area know anything about them. For 3 years in the winter the low speed fan is too low so have freezing parts in the house. I have been through the service manual 40 times trying to figure it out. Do you know what dip switches?
Although it is sort of weird no one in your area services these furnaces. What about the tech who installed it originally? Where do you live... maybe we can recommend someone.
Normally you want the airflow as low as possible. Lower airflow means less sound issues and lower energy. And for cooling mode specifically, lower airflow means better dehumidification. There are reasons to use higher airflow also such as poor duct distribution system, oversized equipment, or desert climate zone.
On "Full High" my furnace has a static pressure of 0.77+ inches. Well above what it's supposed to be. 😞 :-( ... Have to set it lower to get a compromise.
You first need to determine if the lack of airflow through the heat exchanger is due to the fan speed being set too low or if it is due to a ductwork issue that is obstructing the airflow. If this is a brand new install, then the fan speed may be too low. If this in existing system that ran fine in prior winters, then the issue is likely an obstruction.
I have an issue where I get a limit fault from the furnace overheating. How do I increase my CFM Maxes out at 1288? This is assuming that ductwork is sized correctly and also gas pressure is good.
Each issue can be causes by a multitude of root causes so it would not be prudent for us to guess at your issue. If you are building owner, we suggest you call the installation contractor for them to troubleshoot. If you are the contractor... and in Chicagoland and NW Indiana, please call our Tech Support team. If you are in other regions, please call the Tech Support team of that local distributor and they can walk you through troubleshooting steps.
My Carrier Infinite CFM maxes out at 1288 as well. I'm getting a Limit Fault Error-33. Running the test without a filter, I still get the error. Did you ever solve the problem, increase CFM? thank you.
I was working on a 2.5 ton 5 stage a/c unit the other day and from the infinity controller it says in 5th stage I about 930 CFM. Is that the proper amount for 5th stage Also does the blower give off the same amount of CFM whether its in single or 5th stage of a a/c unit? If not how would you know to properly adjust it for each stage And even if you have an infinity controller can you still adjust the dip switches to adjust fan speeds for a/c?
No, all of the dip switches (except the test switches) are disabled when you connect an Infinity controller. Airflow needs to be adjusted from the controller in the service screens.
It sounds like you have the CFM set fairly high. You may want to consider putting it back on the default setting of "COMFORT." That will be 300-325 CFM per ton. You are probably set at EFF or MAX right now and why you are getting 372 CFM per ton. There are reasons to have a high CFM setting, such as air delivery to the "longest" duct run. However, if you take it off of COMFORT, it disables the dehumidification routine, it increases energy usage, and it increases sound. Use COMFORT when you can and only increase it on projects when you have to.
hi, so how would i tell the furnace control that i have a 3 ton ac unit that requires 1200 CFM? setting sw1-5 ON and sw4-3 OFF only tells the furnace 400CFM/ton. thank you.
The 8-10th digits of the Bryant furnace model and the 15-16th digits of Carrier indicate the "tonnage" of the blower. If you are going to use a condensing unit of less tonnage than the blower can handle (such as putting a 4 ton A/C with a furnace that has a 5 ton blower), then you would refer to table 7 of the book to fine tune the CFM as related to static pressure. Alternatively, if you use the Bryant Evolution or Carrier Infinity wall controller, then no dip switch settings are needed at all and the controller knows the tonnage of the outdoor unit via communication cable.
@@TECTubefilms Thank you for this video. This is helpful, at the same confusing based on my settings. I have the infinity furnace 59mn07 with infinity touch. I added the variable ac 19vs one year later. The dip switches are completely different in mine and I wonder whether it is correctly setup. SW1, everything is ON except SW1-8 is off. SW4, everything is OFF. SW2 & SW3 - everything is ON. Am I correctly setup?
I am trying to increase humidity as much as possible since I live in Denver and it is so arid. We sit between 9-16% of humidity every day. Are there any tricks to increase the humidity, turn off any de-humidification functions or any tips or tricks? Just as a note, we are having an Aprilaire humidifier installed in a few weeks, but would love more humidity in our system and maybe for other readers who find this. I am personally installing the Aprilaire 700 Automatic model. Do you have any help on the best wiring setup for best performance year around? Yes, it will run all year on Automatic mode connected to the blower more call.
No reason to turn dehumification mode off. Just set it for 54% like we do in other climates. If it is not above that, it won't use the dehum mode anyway. This way it could still run it occasionally in the summer or other months if you do get a humid stretch in your climate due to rain, etc.
For HEATING season (aka winter), your only mechanisms to increase indoor humidity are to seal the building envelope tighter so dry air does not leak in as much and to install a humidifer.
Are you also having issues with dryness in the summer? If that is the case, you could increase cooling mode blower speed to 350 or 400 CFM/ton. Set dehum drain on 0 minutes. Use a higher cooling setpoint such as 77 degrees.
@@TECTubefilms Actually that is pretty inaccurate, a humidifier is what we use to combat dryness in all seasons of the year. I installed an Aprilaire 700 automatic model but the 800 is better but I have a duct board return air duct. I am a licensed HVAC business owner and do home performance for a living. I was asking about specific equipment from Carrier / Bryant and disabling any dehumidification in the Infinity/Connex controller specifically as some of my clients cannot afford to install a humidifier. AC's naturally add humidity, but the thermostats dehumidify as most states need the opposite of us.
@@TECTubefilms We use humidifiers, i am talking about for customers outside of my service area and those who cannot or do not have a humidifier on their furnace or air handler. Raising the CFM can only go so far. Most 2-5 ton units will not do more than 400 CFM and that is the default out of the box. We are not going to turn up our air temperature to 77 as a way to fix and add humidity. Have you even been to Colorado before? Changing the temperature will do nothing but make you uncomfortably hot.
SW1-2 and SW4-2 Off allow Modulation with a single stage thermostat. Does this work the same as if I had a Bryant Evolution Control? (I am using a Nest thermstat). What am I missing out on?
If you have an Evolution control, the dip switches are not used at all. In this scenario, those same settings are handled by the controller instead of the dip switches.
The furnace will not fully and properly modulate with a standard 2-stage thermostat like nest. It will only fire at 2 rates, although the first stage will change its capacity each run cycle. It is slightly better than a 2-stage furnace but not much better. If some wants to use a regular stat like nest, they should save money and must purchase a mid-tier 2-stage furnace. No reason to pay for a top of the line modulating furnace and then put the regular stat on it to dumb it down to 2-stage.
@@TECTubefilms My furnace is a vintage 2011. So far it looks like all the same dip switches and set up. I'm looking to replace the Infinity controller with a Honeywell Vision Pro 8000 in order to have wifi accessibility. That's the only reason for changing it. Am I really missing out on significant efficiency by doing so? I believe the Vision Pro also has adaptive recovery. I noticed you skipped S1-3. That is one I want to turn on for increased airflow. Thank You!
@@tomacquilano1304 What is the model number of the Infinity state? 2011 is when Infinity stats switched to ones that have Wi-Fi. Is yours not touch screen? If so, you might have one of the last ones of that vintage.
@@tomacquilano1304 The amount of lost functionality will depend a lot on your model of equipment. You will lose the dirty filter sensing ability. If you have a 59MN7 modulating gas furnace, you will lose the modulation and essentially dumb it down to a 2-stage. If you have Infinity zoning, then Honeywell not work. If you have a 25VNA0 heat pump combined with your furnace, it will also not work.
I have an ecobee 4 with room sensors in a number of rooms in my house. Is it better to let my carrier furnace automatically control it's stages using adaptive heat mode, or is it better to connect the ecobee 4's W2 wire and use the thermostat to control the second stage because it can see the different temps in multiple rooms?
The installer indicated that if you were not using the Infinity Touch Control then they don't set any other thermostat to operate in 2 stage mode and always let the furnace handle it. Is this because this is really better, or they just don't want to mess with thermostats they don't sell because they don't want the liability/responsibility of troubleshooting it?
I have a Bryant Evolution natural gas system, I was plagued with Communication errors for years. After rewiring the spliced float switch (the installer did) I was communication error free for about 15 days. I then went into the thermostat did a factory default restore and reinstalled the equipment to clear all the past codes. I am now back to communication errors and the model number and serial number is blank for the furnace. How do I properly load the equipment into the thermostat? I feel like I am doing something wrong?
Your question is a bit off topic for this discussion but the short answer is the the model and serial numbers are embedded into the "model plug" hardware that is physically plugged into the furnace circuit board.
We are not sure what a "spliced float switch" is. Is this a condensate overflow switch for a pan under the furnace in an attic maybe? It should not be "spliced" into anything. It also should not be wired to drop power to the furnace. The best way to wire it would be using the Auxiliary G Input.
Thank you for the reply. I was having issues with Communication errors and zone 2 no sensor data. I ran shielded cable and ultimately fried my furnace circuit board. I've since changed the furnace circuit board with a brand new one and wired the float switch to the g terminal. I went 15 days with no communication faults, then reset factory settings on the UI and did a system reinstall to clear past codes. Now I am back to communication errors.
@@josephconetta4834 When your technician replaced the damaged circuit board the "model ID plug" from the old board should have been inserted into the slot on the new board.
Just had an infinity 96 put in 2 days ago and my blower fan stays on 24/7....even with the thermostat set to auto and OFF instead of heat or cold. I watched this to try to figure out why the fan blows constantly and im still lost
@@TECTubefilms the fan setting is set on auto and the heat/off/cold is set to off. And the fan still runs. Only way it stops is to cut power to the furnace by flipping the kill switch (light switch to furnace's power)
@@dunkcards7901 Have the installing contractor come back to investigate. There are things that could keep the fan on when it should be off, such as error code on furnace (for purge reasons), a different zone on Infinity (if you have zoning), your schedule overriding your manual setting for fan mode, an input wired to the alternate G terminal and configured for fan instead of shutdown or alert.
off = up position, if your board is positioned in the same orientation as this video. In this video you will notice the word "ON" (albeit upside down) to the bottom right of each switch.
I have a Infinity 98 with a infinity thermostat . Once it goes on 100% heat rate it will not come of it. Any help . Carrier has replaced mother board and thermostat still no change.
Do you mean that it keeps heating forever irregardless of how warm the house is? For example, if you set it for 70 degrees and it is 69 in the house, it turns on and heats... eventually ramps up to 100%, hits 70F, and then keeps heating to 71, 72... 75?
Once it is 100 % mode it does not ramp up any more i.e. it comes on at 100% and then stays on at 100% till it hit!s the set temp. The only way I get it to ramp up is turn the power off/on then it ramps up for 3 to 4 hrs then goes back to 100% mode.I think it is the gas modulation may not be operating right . Carrier will not give me any support
How to set infinity furnace fan to high speed for cooling, customer recently replaced infinity thermostat with regular thermostat! And fan is not blowing strong and it causing system to freeze. I wants to increase the air flow. And I already turn 4 to off position
This video specifically addresses how to make adjustments to airflow for an Infinity furnace without an Infinity wall control. We doubt we could type it out better than Dave showed it in the video. Sorry.
@@malventano When they said "regular stat" that did not imply a network connected stat in our mind. But in either case, if you already own the Infinity stat, we would not swap it with a a more common brand of networked stat. The Infinity stat is already connected to Wi-Fi and supports integration with 3rd party tools like Alexa, etc.
@@malventano Plus if you remove the Infinity stat and replace it with an ecobee, nest, Honeywell, Venstar or other networked thermostat, then your 5-stage A/C or heat pump (if you have those models) will be limited down to just 2 stages and your modulating gas valve (if you have that model furnace) will be dumbed down from 61 stages to 2 stages.
No. A 38 series would be an outdoor A/C or heat pump model. Furnace, like shown in this video, are indoor units and would start with a 58 or 59 model number.
Hey Dave glad to see u found your. Nich go for it
I was looking for info to increase the airflow of my 59TN6A080V171114 . This video explained well how to do. thanks.
Why do you want to increase airflow?
To compensate for few additional supply grills at basement level.
Hello, I'm installing an Ecobee onto my Carrier Infinity (same control board). Previously was wired to ABCD, I'm rewiring from ABCD to standard terminals but still not sure on the SW1 settings. Should I match what you have in this video for the standard terminal settings? My current SW1 settings are the same EXCEPT SW1-3 is ON (yours is OFF).
However, from your talking points it sounds like I need to turn SW1-2 to ON and SW-4-2 to ON for the Ecobee?
I've been reaching out Carrier, local guys and haven't had any help, really appreciate your time and this video!
Go with the Connex/Infinity control in every case, if you have one of the nice units or high efficiency. There are functions the Ecobee cannot control that the Carrier themostat can.
I know I'm late, but you should do two things
1. set your ecobee to use the HVAC for fan control
2. Set switch 1-3 to ON so the thermostat can control 2-stage heating
That's pretty much all you need. Just know you'll miss out on things like adjusting fan speed, calculating static pressure, and some other advanced features of your communicating system.
thanks very informative
The thermostat is a Carrier Infinity Touch Control In stalled 6 months ago.
great video good info
At 6:56 it says "SW 3 cannot be set for airflow higher than SW 2" Can you explain why that is? Is it just a recommendation or does it really not work to set SW 2 higher?
SW3 is not only for continuous fan, but also for cooling stage 1. Stage 2 cooling needs to be more airflow than stage 1 cooling for the evaporator will likely freeze up (and even if it does not, the dehumidification would be poor).
Hi, I have a Carrier Infinity 96 Model 58MVB080. This unit operates on propane since the original install. My air temperature at a vent closest to the furnace when the furnace is running on high is only 105 degrees F. Even if you wait until all the tin has heated up, it doesn't go any higher.
I've had a service guy tell me this is normal. Shouldn't that temp be higher? My flame color is good. Very blue with no yellow. Also... new heat exchanger two years ago. Any thoughts? Thanks
There are a lot of factors involved. The first question would be what is the heat rise across the furnace? You need to measure the temperature of the air right before it enters the furnace and then also measure it right as it exits the furnace (not all the way downstream by the vents). The answer to that heat rise question will generate follow-up questions.
@@TECTubefilms Ok, thanks for the response. I will try and take those measurements asap... My basement access is restricted somewhat because I have an occupied suite.
I am trying to increase humidity as much as possible since I live in Denver and it is so arid. We sit between 9-16% of humidity every day. Are there any tricks to increase the humidity, turn off any de-humidification functions or any tips or tricks?
Just as a note, we are having an Aprilaire humidifier installed in a few weeks, but would love more humidity in our system and maybe for other readers who find this.
Can you do a video for speed adjustment on a carrier performance series?
We did a video back in July for speed adjustment of PSC and ECM blowers. Check out the middle section of ruclips.net/video/O_Q1_iTymfQ/видео.html
What about SW1-3 and SW4-1
Hello, I have a new 59TP6 100k btu furnace installed. I'm running a ecobee tstat. The installer left the DIP switches in the factory preset positions. How do I know if its actually using both stages of gas vavle and variable blower speed?
Thank you
Thank you
IF your installer wired both W1 and W2, then in the ecobee stat you can use the check-out mode to force it into stage 1 heat. Measure the duct temperature. Then once the temp is fairly stable and no longer increasing, you can then force it into stage 2 heat and see if the duct temp raises significantly. If the installer only wired W1 and the furnace is handling the staging, then you cannot test from the ecobee.
i had to come to yourube after 3 -4 techs not knowing whats the error is... heres the symptoms
furnace had a power surge and everything dead except blower on all the time weither calling for heat or not.
1.inducer, ignition and safety wires going to connectors on gas valve
2. tested the saftey circuts all good to and from connector on gas valve
3. theres power on the main board going everywhere fuse is not blown
4. no power coming into inducer motor from gas valve connector but theres power from main board to gas valve connector
5. i took off wires to pressure switch .. tested both blue wires dangling in the air and both in and out have 15 volts
6. the diagnostic error light on gas valve used to flash a trouble code of "bad limit circut" but now no light at all
Need some help getting the humidfier control to work. FYI the outdoor unit is non-communicating, i.e. has no OAT sensor, and right now there is no OAT hooked up to the main board (I have an OAT sensor on order). Under this condition there is no OAT displayed on the UID (no surprise), I am given no option on the UID to set heating humidifier control to AUTO, and I never see the HUM terminal provide 24 VAC. Must an OAT be installed to set humidification to AUTO and to activate the 24VAC HUM terminal ?
I have an OEM OAT sensor on order but in the meantime i connected a trim pot across the OAT terminals on the main board but the communicating thermostat (Bryant Evolution) still displays only __ for OAT. Is there some reason the OAT wouldn't start reading with a resistance across the OAT terminals? Do I need to power cycle something after connecting up the OAT sensor before the control board and UID will start reading OAT?
Another question in this area: Does the communicating UID actually measure humidity, or does it simply infer humidity (and generate calls for heating humidification I suppose) based on other parameters such as OAT?
It measures indoor relative humidity. Indoor humidity cannot be inferred from indoor temperature and certainly not outdoor temperature
If you have a thermistor with the correct curve (10k Type II) or a resistor simulating an appropriate resistance in the acceptable range, then it should display on the stat.
Everything appears good, may have been a bad connection on the control board. The model plug was switched over, but appears not to be reading the make/model. When I do a system install it only reads Furnace 75 kbtu out. Any ideas?
That is a odd one. If you are a contractor, we would suggest contacting the local Carrier/Bryant technical support number for your area of the country. If you are a homeowner, we would suggest you contact your dealer who can then reach out to tech support, if needed.
You skipped switch 1 #3
I had a Carrier Infinity model 59 TN6B060C171114 furnace installed with the Carrier Thermostat Infinity System Control. When the Heat cycle begins, the Thermostat displays a "System fault, 126-High Heat Cycle Active" message. The technician told me that the problem is communication with the Motherboard and they have already requested a new Motherboard. I'm not convinced that's the problem. On the internet I found it to set the Furnace to "Efficiency" and turn it on "Low Heat Rise". But this last option does not have it to activate in my Thermostat. What do you think should be checked to correct this fault?
This is a relative new error code that was added to the software last year. There are lots of things that could cause it, but it essentially means your furnace is running too hot. Likely causes include insufficient airflow (which itself can have multiple causes) or high gas pressure.
The two settings you mentioned are in the installer setup screens and they are "band-aids" to increase airflow to avoid this alert message without solving the actually root issue.
How do I decrease the AC airflow speed ?
It was covered in this video for systems without an Infinity stat. Please re-watch at minute 3:15 and minute 5:45.
I have a Carrier Performance 96 59TP6 and no techs in my area know anything about them. For 3 years in the winter the low speed fan is too low so have freezing parts in the house. I have been through the service manual 40 times trying to figure it out. Do you know what dip switches?
This video is for Carrier Infinity series furnaces, not Performance series. We do not have a video specific to the 59TP6.
Although it is sort of weird no one in your area services these furnaces. What about the tech who installed it originally? Where do you live... maybe we can recommend someone.
is there any reason why you'd want to DECREASE your airflow? Wouldn't you want the airflow higher always?
Normally you want the airflow as low as possible. Lower airflow means less sound issues and lower energy. And for cooling mode specifically, lower airflow means better dehumidification. There are reasons to use higher airflow also such as poor duct distribution system, oversized equipment, or desert climate zone.
On "Full High" my furnace has a static pressure of 0.77+ inches. Well above what it's supposed to be. 😞 :-( ...
Have to set it lower to get a compromise.
How much would this board cost to replace?
Out of warranty about a thousand dollars installed and set up. However I’ve not seen many of this version fail. Only one in about the last five years.
How can I increase the air flow in heating operation? The air flow not enough so the high limit tripped
You first need to determine if the lack of airflow through the heat exchanger is due to the fan speed being set too low or if it is due to a ductwork issue that is obstructing the airflow. If this is a brand new install, then the fan speed may be too low. If this in existing system that ran fine in prior winters, then the issue is likely an obstruction.
I have an issue where I get a limit fault from the furnace overheating. How do I increase my CFM Maxes out at 1288? This is assuming that ductwork is sized correctly and also gas pressure is good.
Each issue can be causes by a multitude of root causes so it would not be prudent for us to guess at your issue. If you are building owner, we suggest you call the installation contractor for them to troubleshoot. If you are the contractor... and in Chicagoland and NW Indiana, please call our Tech Support team. If you are in other regions, please call the Tech Support team of that local distributor and they can walk you through troubleshooting steps.
My Carrier Infinite CFM maxes out at 1288 as well. I'm getting a Limit Fault Error-33. Running the test without a filter, I still get the error. Did you ever solve the problem, increase CFM? thank you.
Can I use the Infinity System Control on a Keep-Rite furnace?
No, it is not compatible. You will want a very similar control called Ion.
Up is on down is off? I know that’s dumb but I’m working on one of these today haha
it should say on the little red box which direction to turn it.
I was working on a 2.5 ton 5 stage a/c unit the other day and from the infinity controller it says in 5th stage I about 930 CFM. Is that the proper amount for 5th stage
Also does the blower give off the same amount of CFM whether its in single or 5th stage of a a/c unit? If not how would you know to properly adjust it for each stage
And even if you have an infinity controller can you still adjust the dip switches to adjust fan speeds for a/c?
No, all of the dip switches (except the test switches) are disabled when you connect an Infinity controller. Airflow needs to be adjusted from the controller in the service screens.
No, 1st stage and 5th stage do not have the same airflow. The CFM modulates as the cooling capacity modulates.
It sounds like you have the CFM set fairly high. You may want to consider putting it back on the default setting of "COMFORT." That will be 300-325 CFM per ton. You are probably set at EFF or MAX right now and why you are getting 372 CFM per ton.
There are reasons to have a high CFM setting, such as air delivery to the "longest" duct run. However, if you take it off of COMFORT, it disables the dehumidification routine, it increases energy usage, and it increases sound. Use COMFORT when you can and only increase it on projects when you have to.
This video series may help you - ruclips.net/p/PLoR_O4JRNc27j4f0sdFYQJSZ-f6BhSD7i
hi, so how would i tell the furnace control that i have a 3 ton ac unit that requires 1200 CFM? setting sw1-5 ON and sw4-3 OFF only tells the furnace 400CFM/ton. thank you.
The 8-10th digits of the Bryant furnace model and the 15-16th digits of Carrier indicate the "tonnage" of the blower. If you are going to use a condensing unit of less tonnage than the blower can handle (such as putting a 4 ton A/C with a furnace that has a 5 ton blower), then you would refer to table 7 of the book to fine tune the CFM as related to static pressure. Alternatively, if you use the Bryant Evolution or Carrier Infinity wall controller, then no dip switch settings are needed at all and the controller knows the tonnage of the outdoor unit via communication cable.
@@TECTubefilms Thank you for this video. This is helpful, at the same confusing based on my settings. I have the infinity furnace 59mn07 with infinity touch. I added the variable ac 19vs one year later. The dip switches are completely different in mine and I wonder whether it is correctly setup. SW1, everything is ON except SW1-8 is off. SW4, everything is OFF. SW2 & SW3 - everything is ON. Am I correctly setup?
Hi. Do you know how to ajast blower speed in bryant 820ta.
Thanks
ruclips.net/video/O_Q1_iTymfQ/видео.html
I am trying to increase humidity as much as possible since I live in Denver and it is so arid. We sit between 9-16% of humidity every day. Are there any tricks to increase the humidity, turn off any de-humidification functions or any tips or tricks?
Just as a note, we are having an Aprilaire humidifier installed in a few weeks, but would love more humidity in our system and maybe for other readers who find this.
I am personally installing the Aprilaire 700 Automatic model. Do you have any help on the best wiring setup for best performance year around? Yes, it will run all year on Automatic mode connected to the blower more call.
No reason to turn dehumification mode off. Just set it for 54% like we do in other climates. If it is not above that, it won't use the dehum mode anyway. This way it could still run it occasionally in the summer or other months if you do get a humid stretch in your climate due to rain, etc.
For HEATING season (aka winter), your only mechanisms to increase indoor humidity are to seal the building envelope tighter so dry air does not leak in as much and to install a humidifer.
Are you also having issues with dryness in the summer? If that is the case, you could increase cooling mode blower speed to 350 or 400 CFM/ton. Set dehum drain on 0 minutes. Use a higher cooling setpoint such as 77 degrees.
@@TECTubefilms Actually that is pretty inaccurate, a humidifier is what we use to combat dryness in all seasons of the year. I installed an Aprilaire 700 automatic model but the 800 is better but I have a duct board return air duct. I am a licensed HVAC business owner and do home performance for a living. I was asking about specific equipment from Carrier / Bryant and disabling any dehumidification in the Infinity/Connex controller specifically as some of my clients cannot afford to install a humidifier. AC's naturally add humidity, but the thermostats dehumidify as most states need the opposite of us.
@@TECTubefilms We use humidifiers, i am talking about for customers outside of my service area and those who cannot or do not have a humidifier on their furnace or air handler. Raising the CFM can only go so far. Most 2-5 ton units will not do more than 400 CFM and that is the default out of the box. We are not going to turn up our air temperature to 77 as a way to fix and add humidity. Have you even been to Colorado before? Changing the temperature will do nothing but make you uncomfortably hot.
SW1-2 and SW4-2 Off allow Modulation with a single stage thermostat. Does this work the same as if I had a Bryant Evolution Control? (I am using a Nest thermstat). What am I missing out on?
If you have an Evolution control, the dip switches are not used at all. In this scenario, those same settings are handled by the controller instead of the dip switches.
The furnace will not fully and properly modulate with a standard 2-stage thermostat like nest. It will only fire at 2 rates, although the first stage will change its capacity each run cycle. It is slightly better than a 2-stage furnace but not much better. If some wants to use a regular stat like nest, they should save money and must purchase a mid-tier 2-stage furnace. No reason to pay for a top of the line modulating furnace and then put the regular stat on it to dumb it down to 2-stage.
@@TECTubefilms My furnace is a vintage 2011. So far it looks like all the same dip switches and set up. I'm looking to replace the Infinity controller with a Honeywell Vision Pro 8000 in order to have wifi accessibility. That's the only reason for changing it. Am I really missing out on significant efficiency by doing so? I believe the Vision Pro also has adaptive recovery. I noticed you skipped S1-3. That is one I want to turn on for increased airflow. Thank You!
@@tomacquilano1304 What is the model number of the Infinity state? 2011 is when Infinity stats switched to ones that have Wi-Fi. Is yours not touch screen? If so, you might have one of the last ones of that vintage.
@@tomacquilano1304 The amount of lost functionality will depend a lot on your model of equipment. You will lose the dirty filter sensing ability. If you have a 59MN7 modulating gas furnace, you will lose the modulation and essentially dumb it down to a 2-stage. If you have Infinity zoning, then Honeywell not work. If you have a 25VNA0 heat pump combined with your furnace, it will also not work.
I have an ecobee 4 with room sensors in a number of rooms in my house. Is it better to let my carrier furnace automatically control it's stages using adaptive heat mode, or is it better to connect the ecobee 4's W2 wire and use the thermostat to control the second stage because it can see the different temps in multiple rooms?
The installer indicated that if you were not using the Infinity Touch Control then they don't set any other thermostat to operate in 2 stage mode and always let the furnace handle it. Is this because this is really better, or they just don't want to mess with thermostats they don't sell because they don't want the liability/responsibility of troubleshooting it?
I have a Bryant Evolution natural gas system, I was plagued with Communication errors for years. After rewiring the spliced float switch (the installer did) I was communication error free for about 15 days. I then went into the thermostat did a factory default restore and reinstalled the equipment to clear all the past codes. I am now back to communication errors and the model number and serial number is blank for the furnace. How do I properly load the equipment into the thermostat? I feel like I am doing something wrong?
Your question is a bit off topic for this discussion but the short answer is the the model and serial numbers are embedded into the "model plug" hardware that is physically plugged into the furnace circuit board.
We are not sure what a "spliced float switch" is. Is this a condensate overflow switch for a pan under the furnace in an attic maybe? It should not be "spliced" into anything. It also should not be wired to drop power to the furnace. The best way to wire it would be using the Auxiliary G Input.
Wire a condensate overflow switch similar to this - ruclips.net/video/FUyZCvzsHy8/видео.html
Thank you for the reply. I was having issues with Communication errors and zone 2 no sensor data. I ran shielded cable and ultimately fried my furnace circuit board. I've since changed the furnace circuit board with a brand new one and wired the float switch to the g terminal. I went 15 days with no communication faults, then reset factory settings on the UI and did a system reinstall to clear past codes. Now I am back to communication errors.
@@josephconetta4834 When your technician replaced the damaged circuit board the "model ID plug" from the old board should have been inserted into the slot on the new board.
Just had an infinity 96 put in 2 days ago and my blower fan stays on 24/7....even with the thermostat set to auto and OFF instead of heat or cold. I watched this to try to figure out why the fan blows constantly and im still lost
Do you mean have the fan set to AUTO/OFF or you have the heat/cool set to AUTO/OFF? These are separate selections.
@@TECTubefilms the fan setting is set on auto and the heat/off/cold is set to off. And the fan still runs. Only way it stops is to cut power to the furnace by flipping the kill switch (light switch to furnace's power)
@@dunkcards7901 Have the installing contractor come back to investigate. There are things that could keep the fan on when it should be off, such as error code on furnace (for purge reasons), a different zone on Infinity (if you have zoning), your schedule overriding your manual setting for fan mode, an input wired to the alternate G terminal and configured for fan instead of shutdown or alert.
@@dunkcards7901 ruclips.net/p/PLoR_O4JRNc27j4f0sdFYQJSZ-f6BhSD7i
Hi is up or down off on the switch?
off = up position, if your board is positioned in the same orientation as this video. In this video you will notice the word "ON" (albeit upside down) to the bottom right of each switch.
I have a Infinity 98 with a infinity thermostat . Once it goes on 100% heat rate it will not come of it. Any help . Carrier has replaced mother board and thermostat still no change.
Do you mean that it keeps heating forever irregardless of how warm the house is? For example, if you set it for 70 degrees and it is 69 in the house, it turns on and heats... eventually ramps up to 100%, hits 70F, and then keeps heating to 71, 72... 75?
Once it is 100 % mode it does not ramp up any more i.e. it comes on at 100% and then stays on at 100% till it hit!s the set temp. The only way I get it to ramp up is turn the power off/on then it ramps up for 3 to 4 hrs then goes back to 100% mode.I think it is the gas modulation may not be operating right . Carrier will not give me any support
@@rodneyplatt1521 Still not sure what you mean. It will never "ramp up" more than 100%. And why are you turning the power off then on?
@@rodneyplatt1521 If you local Carrier Dealer is unable to support you, call 1-800-CARRIER
Have your service tech watch our series on Infinity thermostats and make sure it is setup correctly. ruclips.net/video/hesq8TMhznQ/видео.html
How to set infinity furnace fan to high speed for cooling, customer recently replaced infinity thermostat with regular thermostat! And fan is not blowing strong and it causing system to freeze. I wants to increase the air flow. And I already turn 4 to off position
This video specifically addresses how to make adjustments to airflow for an Infinity furnace without an Infinity wall control. We doubt we could type it out better than Dave showed it in the video. Sorry.
Why would the customer downgrade their Infinity wall control to a standard thermostat?
@@TECTubefilms probably for better integration with other devices when using more common network connected thermostats.
@@malventano When they said "regular stat" that did not imply a network connected stat in our mind. But in either case, if you already own the Infinity stat, we would not swap it with a a more common brand of networked stat. The Infinity stat is already connected to Wi-Fi and supports integration with 3rd party tools like Alexa, etc.
@@malventano Plus if you remove the Infinity stat and replace it with an ecobee, nest, Honeywell, Venstar or other networked thermostat, then your 5-stage A/C or heat pump (if you have those models) will be limited down to just 2 stages and your modulating gas valve (if you have that model furnace) will be dumbed down from 61 stages to 2 stages.
Is this for 38CKC060300?
No. A 38 series would be an outdoor A/C or heat pump model. Furnace, like shown in this video, are indoor units and would start with a 58 or 59 model number.