I like my straight cool with 10kw heater. 15 years old and only replaced the Dual capacitor about 3 years ago. And did a coil clean. still going strong.
I like two stage more as a reserved cooling capacity on hot days than for dehumidification. In other words size it right in first stage and have the second stage be oversized for the space to maintain the setpoint even on the hottest days. Also use the Y Low terminal and set the CFM to 450. Using the BK as Trane states causes too much air flow in first stage keeping the humidity around 50% VS 45 which is more comfortable.
That's the exact opposite of what you want. You want the first stage for mild 80-85° weather and the 2nd stage for 85-95°. It'll help bring down indoor humidity and maximize comfort.
You have solved the issue for me, as my new S9V2 (February) was giving me this same problem when I turned on Cooling for the season, and the installer did not believe me that there was an issue. I had to set the Menu to 3 tons for my 1.5 ton unit to get the proper CFMs, as indeed it was running on low speed. This meant no lower speed for the fan at 50% setting. After 3 weeks of waiting and having been told that nothing was wrong, and that I should contact Trane directly, I searched for info and found your video. The installer had indeed forgotten the jumper. He did not and would not come to my home to see what might be wrong. Thanks so much.
Love ur accent first. Love ur yellow truck second i drive one for the last 10 yrs.....in the field for 30. And 3rd ur troubleshooting skills are priceless. Be blessed Cool Guy😀
Completely agree on two stage cooling for low seer resi equipment. Only really useful running two equal zones. Dehu is best done with dedicated equipment or solving other problems.
Yeah my Goodman has little dip switches to alter the fan speed, I'm guessing you do that via those menu buttons in the center. So now the computer thinks y1 and y2 are being energized!? Probably fry the board.
Not sure you are right. It should connect to Y2 in furnace, otherwise the blower always run at slow speed (y1). Maybe different machines have different setting?
so that was your retrofits did the installers forget to RTFM? lol shouldn't the t-stat and condenser be on Y1 with jumper remaining from Y1 to O, nothing on Y2, then set any blower ramp delays through the board menu.
Y1 or Y2 In my experience there is a limit for cfm/fan speed on each of these, but not sure how this particular unit works. Depending on max from each and size of outdoor unit, or dual stage, you connect to the appropriate terminal(s).
How do I test if my VFD it’s running at full speed? I know by fact that a degraded fan signal that results in the fan speed being lower that the board is requesting. For example, at fan only 50% fan signal should be 30 HZ on the VFD. At 100% fan signal (full cooling) the VFD should be running 60 hz. If you see something different, the board may need to be replaced.
What could be causing my blower speed to fluctuate a lot but mostly run at very low speed during cooling season? This is a problem I’ve been having during a recent spell of hot weather, no issues otherwise since install 7 years ago. Usually turning the system from cool to off for several hours fixes the problem and then it’ll work fine again for a day or two. If I leave the system off but the fan on, it seems to blow at the expected medium speed.
Love the channel. It is my go to before I call and bug you in person. Here trying to figure out how to increase fan speed on a Trane 80% , in fan only it is running on very low. Works fine in heat and cool. It is Pepe's house. In your old neighborhood. May be calling you..
Trane Serial 23481lpmgh@@TedCookHVAC If that is not right I will get it tomorrow. I am amazed you responded, you have to be busy as hell. I took his packet with all the info back to him today. The code is COF Component overload. Maybe the fan was not full stop when we set the fan speeds.
I just put one of these in yesterday longest part was programming the board for while checking static pressure. I love the height of this new furnace but thats about it.
most likely specified in the building plans by the "stooge architect", so that all mechanical's and piping are at one location, that's seen the least.... nothing out front of house, nothing visible above roof-line/peak and all out the wall with least amount of windows. which is often narrow adjoining side yards, with a fence smashed between and poor airflow. shall I mention the homes all being too close together and neighbors having their noses up each others butts 24/7
I'm with on the single , let the thing run cool the house down , shut off and save electrical cost , if u are that concerned about humidity ,they make dehumidifiers.
most likely the builder has their own installers that does every home they build. chock full of shortcuts, nonsense and often right in the plan at architect level.
Hey Ted, in the upper left-hand corner of that board there's a little square with an "FP" in it at the (3:00 min. mark) and it says "flame current" right above there. It looks like there are 2 little solder pin positions there. Is that where you take is that where you take the uA for the flame sensor reading at on that board?
So are you saying either get a single stage or go to a variable 18-20 seer unit? Isn't that a huge price difference? So 2stage to you has no real benefit over single? I ask because I'm replacing 2.5 ton 14 seer single stage unit soon sq 1,450 ft home. I think i would have to move up to a 3 ton unit to get any kind variable stage units.
According to many HVAC techs here on RUclips, the dual stage condensers are less reliable. If you check the AHRI documentation, the 18 SEER 5 ton dual stage condenser is not any more
Anti DIY, if you were to replace a 3 ton single speed 13 SEER heat pump, ICP Heil, what today would you go with for best longevity and reasonably high SEER 16-20? Even considering a mini split cassettes with multi zones. Thx~
cross your fingers and pray to the almighty nonexistent hvac god of long equipment life :)) you should quickly arrive at my opinion about all equipment on the market........ today, tomorrow and handful of decades back ;)
dehumidification mode? yes yes.. its a residential area so on a turn invert the speed limit number.. 15 has become 51🏡🚘🏎 👍 airflow is the 1st place to start. clean coils & blower wheel collapsed vent line
Please speak up when you are recording yourself. When you mumble we can’t hear you a lot of us are sitting in our trucks on our downtime trying to learn more but there’s road noise around us. But thank you I appreciate your content.
I am so caught up watching how you troubleshoot the problems. From obvious to the inobvious! Awsome work!
I like my straight cool with 10kw heater. 15 years old and only replaced the Dual capacitor about 3 years ago. And did a coil clean. still going strong.
I like two stage more as a reserved cooling capacity on hot days than for dehumidification. In other words size it right in first stage and have the second stage be oversized for the space to maintain the setpoint even on the hottest days. Also use the Y Low terminal and set the CFM to 450. Using the BK as Trane states causes too much air flow in first stage keeping the humidity around 50% VS 45 which is more comfortable.
That's the exact opposite of what you want. You want the first stage for mild 80-85° weather and the 2nd stage for 85-95°. It'll help bring down indoor humidity and maximize comfort.
You don’t need to jump it. Move the wire to Y1. Go into the menu and check the settings.
You have solved the issue for me, as my new S9V2 (February) was giving me this same problem when I turned on Cooling for the season, and the installer did not believe me that there was an issue. I had to set the Menu to 3 tons for my 1.5 ton unit to get the proper CFMs, as indeed it was running on low speed. This meant no lower speed for the fan at 50% setting. After 3 weeks of waiting and having been told that nothing was wrong, and that I should contact Trane directly, I searched for info and found your video. The installer had indeed forgotten the jumper. He did not and would not come to my home to see what might be wrong. Thanks so much.
Thank u. Made my day. 3 previous trips to my customer.
Nice concise video, also very good explanation of 1 stage cool & 2-stage heat.
S9V2 notorious for inducer seal leaking right onto the board
Great work Ted. Charge looks good to me as well. Thanks for the tip as well for the furnace
Love ur accent first. Love ur yellow truck second i drive one for the last 10 yrs.....in the field for 30. And 3rd ur troubleshooting skills are priceless. Be blessed Cool Guy😀
Completely agree on two stage cooling for low seer resi equipment. Only really useful running two equal zones. Dehu is best done with dedicated equipment or solving other problems.
I thought you just wire to y1 and set in the control board that it is single stage, the outdoor tonnage and the cfm per ton.
Yep...that's exactly right. Have installed and serviced 100s of the s9v2s. Love them
Yeah my Goodman has little dip switches to alter the fan speed, I'm guessing you do that via those menu buttons in the center. So now the computer thinks y1 and y2 are being energized!? Probably fry the board.
That's exactly how we do it!
Not sure you are right. It should connect to Y2 in furnace, otherwise the blower always run at slow speed (y1). Maybe different machines have different setting?
so that was your retrofits did the installers forget to RTFM? lol
shouldn't the t-stat and condenser be on Y1 with jumper remaining from Y1 to O, nothing on Y2, then set any blower ramp delays through the board menu.
Y1 or Y2
In my experience there is a limit for cfm/fan speed on each of these, but not sure how this particular unit works.
Depending on max from each and size of outdoor unit, or dual stage, you connect to the appropriate terminal(s).
Only needs Y1 with a single stage thermostat.
the installers didnt do anything but open the valves and go...the charge is right on due to short line set.
How do I test if my VFD it’s running at full speed? I know by fact that a degraded fan signal that results in the fan speed being lower that the board is requesting. For example, at fan only 50% fan signal should be 30 HZ on the VFD. At 100% fan signal (full cooling) the VFD should be running 60 hz. If you see something different, the board may need to be replaced.
What could be causing my blower speed to fluctuate a lot but mostly run at very low speed during cooling season? This is a problem I’ve been having during a recent spell of hot weather, no issues otherwise since install 7 years ago. Usually turning the system from cool to off for several hours fixes the problem and then it’ll work fine again for a day or two. If I leave the system off but the fan on, it seems to blow at the expected medium speed.
Love the channel. It is my go to before I call and bug you in person. Here trying to figure out how to increase fan speed on a Trane 80% , in fan only it is running on very low. Works fine in heat and cool. It is Pepe's house. In your old neighborhood. May be calling you..
The only way to speed the fan up is to add compressor. Meaning when the green only is energized, it runs at a very low speed usually 35 to 50%.
Send me the model number to the furnace. Sometimes there are circulation speed adjustments.
Trane Serial 23481lpmgh@@TedCookHVAC If that is not right I will get it tomorrow. I am amazed you responded, you have to be busy as hell. I took his packet with all the info back to him today. The code is COF Component overload. Maybe the fan was not full stop when we set the fan speeds.
I just put one of these in yesterday longest part was programming the board for while checking static pressure. I love the height of this new furnace but thats about it.
Why do so many builders put the dryer vent right next to the a/c condenser?
most likely specified in the building plans by the "stooge architect", so that all mechanical's and piping are at one location, that's seen the least....
nothing out front of house, nothing visible above roof-line/peak and all out the wall with least amount of windows. which is often narrow adjoining side yards, with a fence smashed between and poor airflow.
shall I mention the homes all being too close together and neighbors having their noses up each others butts 24/7
Is that not where they go?... maybe it just grew there like moss on a tree, dryer vents appear next to condenser.🤔
@@13ryanheartbreaker27 Closest to coi as possible, last line of defence.
I'm with on the single , let the thing run cool the house down , shut off and save electrical cost , if u are that concerned about humidity ,they make dehumidifiers.
Why wouldn’t you leave a note on a panel when it was put in and initials of the installer or on a sticker with your company info
I've had that same though for years. My only guess would be unlicensed installers or the company not wanting to take any liabilities.
most likely the builder has their own installers that does every home they build.
chock full of shortcuts, nonsense and often right in the plan at architect level.
Hey Ted, in the upper left-hand corner of that board there's a little square with an "FP" in it at the (3:00 min. mark) and it says "flame current" right above there. It looks like there are 2 little solder pin positions there. Is that where you take is that where you take the uA for the flame sensor reading at on that board?
Yes it is
Good video Ted. Thank you for all the recommendations of what equipment you recommend pairing together.
That's good for cool. How to make the blower speed run high on heat?
Correct .6 oz per foot. Itchy Mee-shee has a diff charge gang. Read the book cause the many circuits may change what we do.
One question and what can we check if the blower ecm motor not stop working????
Hi I like your video
So are you saying either get a single stage or go to a variable 18-20 seer unit? Isn't that a huge price difference? So 2stage to you has no real benefit over single? I ask because I'm replacing 2.5 ton 14 seer single stage unit soon sq 1,450 ft home. I think i would have to move up to a 3 ton unit to get any kind variable stage units.
According to many HVAC techs here on RUclips, the dual stage condensers are less reliable. If you check the AHRI documentation, the 18 SEER 5 ton dual stage condenser is not any more
Anti DIY, if you were to replace a 3 ton single speed 13 SEER heat pump, ICP Heil, what today would you go with for best longevity and reasonably high SEER 16-20? Even considering a mini split cassettes with multi zones. Thx~
cross your fingers and pray to the almighty nonexistent hvac god of long equipment life :))
you should quickly arrive at my opinion about all equipment on the market........ today, tomorrow and handful of decades back ;)
Any idea how to make this unit run dehum mode? Can i just get hunidistat and working?
There is a good use @ reasonable cost for two stage cooling. When you have a two or three zone system this can be very efficient and affective.
sir: my heat pump package ECM blower will only work when its fan is set to ON. In auto, it stops
Where can I buy the pressure gauges you use?
dehumidification mode? yes yes.. its a residential area so on a turn invert the speed limit number..
15 has become 51🏡🚘🏎 👍
airflow is the 1st place to start. clean coils & blower wheel collapsed vent line
All this computer sh#@t makes me sick . But at the same time we Maint and HVAC guys have to understand how this stuff works. Great Video Ted 👍👍
2 stage beats single stage all the time, 2 stage cooling saves more electricity. Gas is cheap....
Looks good. Grommet missing on the right side of where float switch is going in. Just busting your chops bud. Lol
Thanks for the vid!
Good one Ted, thanks!
So what happened when you were a kid ? You can't just edit that part out you know second 15 bro.
Here again!
Please speak up when you are recording yourself. When you mumble we can’t hear you a lot of us are sitting in our trucks on our downtime trying to learn more but there’s road noise around us. But thank you I appreciate your content.
Hey answer me right now
Ok