I bought two electronic testers for the 16 pin and the the other X13. I just plug them to the 24 volt and if it runs we know the motor is good. Have to do some of the checking you reccomended here. Good job on the video.
Keep an old wire harness remove all wires except 1 and 3 and 12 and 15 and remove molex plug from one end. Now take the red and blue wires and connect to pins 1 and 3 and 12 and 15. You now have a go no go tester for free.
A squirrel cage blower is not a positive displacement type air pump. Ergo, it should not draw more current due to duct restriction, but should draw less as it is doing less work, moving less air. Put an ammeter on the blower motor and restrict its duct...see what happens.
My tetco geothermal has a 4 pin molex going to the ecm board. Is this a DCV signaled board to module? Diagnostics for a 4 pin available? I get 12v DC from Red to other 3 pins. What should I be measuring?
After replacing the module thermister, a year later my main blower motor (GE 1/2 hp 08/22/00 CNO2 011DH7) is making a intermittent high pitched whine (g#5 note) when on first stage. I "think" it's related to the module, but not sure. Anyone?
The board sends a 24v signal to the thermostat then just like a light switch it routes the 24v from the board through the thermostat back to the corresponding terminal on the board.
16-pin connector may have various definitions, I wonder. I followed this video ruclips.net/video/lKsIgjEJDII/видео.html made a set (a copy of TecMate Tool), worked for some ECM, but when it comes to Carrier infiniti, it didn't move. Carrier actually using only 4 out of 16 wires. 1+15 in this vid works. Now you show us another version of tester, 3-button tester. :-D If we can get the wiring of the 3-button tester we can make one for our own. Thanks
One of my AC units quit working. I troubleshot the blower motor and I’m having the back and forth rocking but it never starts. All my voltages are good. I ohmed out the blower and am getting 11 ohms at each wire. I didn’t ohm to ground. In the video he mentioned replacing the blower motor but doesn’t specify whether you should replace the blower only or the entire assembly, motor and ecm. Does anyone know what I should do?
Walk in the door, go to thermostat and turn fan to on, if you hear a blower you know you have 24v, 110v, red wire from tstat is good, green wire is, fan relay on board is good and fan motor works. If nothing happens flip the tstat to heat, if heat goes then 24v is present and white wire is good, red wire is good, you have both 24v and 110v also. No need for a multi tester yet. NOW got o furnace and start testing, much much faster.
hi, my ge ecm 2.3 1/2 hp motor is continuously running on a low speed, when we turn off the ac, it switches from normal speed to low speed and keeps running, any help would be appreciated.
I checked the motor with an ohm meter at the three pin connection and everything checked out good, you say if it checks out, the motor is good, Yet when I hook everything back together the motor rocks back and forth but does not spin you say the motor is bad, which conflicts with the ohms test, Could you please advise if further tests can be performed to help diagnose the problem, Thank you.
+Pee Dee If the motor is rocking back and forth, then the module is looking for direction. If it continues to rock and not run, it cannot find the proper direction due to an issue with the module. The module is bad and will need to be replaced. We do not replace just the module. We will need to replace the motor and the module.
+Technical Services I had the same problem December 2013 and replaced the module but not the motor, could this be the reason why the module failed, I have read other posts on line, advising that the module can be replaced if the motor checks out good, Thanks
+Pee Dee We used to be able to replace the module or the motor depending on which was bad. At this time we cannot get just the motor or just the module. They now come as a pair. It should not affect it if one was replaced and not the other. The only reason we change both is that it is how they are sold to us.Thanks!
Are there any more details you can provide regarding motor rocking back and forth? Is it the only course of action to replace both the fan control module and the fan too?
We would be happy to look into this. Please provide your contact information and unit serial number to customerrelations@enertechusa.com so that we can determine the best way to address your questions.
Great video! A question about rocking back and forth and NOT being the module?... My blower motor will, once in a while, continue to rock back and forth without turning on completely. This has caused my coils to freeze and my limit switch to pop while in heat. Most times, however, the blower will turn on completely! When calling for fan only, I receive 24 volts from the thermostat at "R" and "G". However, when going from the 16 pin header on the control board (ECM 2.3) the "G" pin (#15) only sends 15 volts to the motor module. The harness is fine as it shows continuity for all lines. Is the 15 volts that leaves the control board and goes to the motor module the issue causing my blower motor to sometimes stay rocking back and forth without turning on completely? Or would you assume it's the motor module and the 15 volts out of the control board is not the problem?
Hi there! Thanks for the comment. When the blower wheel rocks back and forth, the module is trying to find proper direction. If it continues to do that then the module will need to be replaced. As far as the voltages go, if there is at least 14 volts to the module then the module will recognize that as a call and should start the motor. Again, if the module rocks back and forth that is not a voltage issue but a module issue.
@@EnertechUniversity Great! Thanks. Any videos on repairing ECM modules or what to look for? I've seen a couple talking about swapping out thermistors but mine does not look damaged.
I bought two electronic testers for the 16 pin and the the other X13. I just plug them to the 24 volt and if it runs we know the motor is good. Have to do some of the checking you reccomended here. Good job on the video.
Keep an old wire harness remove all wires except 1 and 3 and 12 and 15 and remove molex plug from one end. Now take the red and blue wires and connect to pins 1 and 3 and 12 and 15. You now have a go no go tester for free.
Excellent training tutorial. Top notch.
Every single ecm motor I have come across was fucked up. ECM motors are worthless
Most of the time they fail due to power surges or voltage spike. Ecm modules don't like dirty voltage
Over time, Insufficient air flow will also fry the module.
A squirrel cage blower is not a positive displacement type air pump. Ergo, it should not draw more current due to duct restriction, but should draw less as it is doing less work, moving less air. Put an ammeter on the blower motor and restrict its duct...see what happens.
Take an amp draw to the motor (black or white wire), this will the amp draw. This will tell us if it’s over current or not.
My tetco geothermal has a 4 pin molex going to the ecm board. Is this a DCV signaled board to module? Diagnostics for a 4 pin available? I get 12v DC from Red to other 3 pins. What should I be measuring?
After replacing the module thermister, a year later my main blower motor (GE 1/2 hp 08/22/00 CNO2 011DH7) is making a intermittent high pitched whine (g#5 note) when on first stage. I "think" it's related to the module, but not sure. Anyone?
So to add power to test, do I make the jumper and tie to 1-3 for and 12-15 for power?
The #1 & #3 terminals are common, the #12 terminal is power & #15 is the "G" fan call. So yes
Is this the same across all ecm makes?
Hi Ambrose! No, some brands have a DCV signal going to the module. Let us know if you have any more questions.
@@EnertechUniversity I have a gentech eon with a strange transformer looking thing wired to it, is that the dcv you speak of ?
I Always thought the board sent 24v to the T-stat.
The board sends a 24v signal to the thermostat then just like a light switch it routes the 24v from the board through the thermostat back to the corresponding terminal on the board.
I cant seem to find the "Pin Designations" technical handout you mention from geothermal university...any chance you have a link?
I do not have a link. However, if you email training@enertechgeo.com we would be happy to send a PDF
16-pin connector may have various definitions, I wonder. I followed this video ruclips.net/video/lKsIgjEJDII/видео.html made a set (a copy of TecMate Tool), worked for some ECM, but when it comes to Carrier infiniti, it didn't move. Carrier actually using only 4 out of 16 wires. 1+15 in this vid works. Now you show us another version of tester, 3-button tester. :-D If we can get the wiring of the 3-button tester we can make one for our own. Thanks
One of my AC units quit working. I troubleshot the blower motor and I’m having the back and forth rocking but it never starts. All my voltages are good. I ohmed out the blower and am getting 11 ohms at each wire. I didn’t ohm to ground. In the video he mentioned replacing the blower motor but doesn’t specify whether you should replace the blower only or the entire assembly, motor and ecm. Does anyone know what I should do?
The windings are good so the motor itself is fine if none measure ohms to ground.
Walk in the door, go to thermostat and turn fan to on, if you hear a blower you know you have 24v, 110v, red wire from tstat is good, green wire is, fan relay on board is good and fan motor works. If nothing happens flip the tstat to heat, if heat goes then 24v is present and white wire is good, red wire is good, you have both 24v and 110v also. No need for a multi tester yet. NOW got o furnace and start testing, much much faster.
Would love to see a similar video on ecm 3.0 motors
hi, my ge ecm 2.3 1/2 hp motor is continuously running on a low speed, when we turn off the ac, it switches from normal speed to low speed and keeps running, any help would be appreciated.
I checked the motor with an ohm meter at the three pin connection and everything checked out good, you say if it checks out, the motor is good, Yet when I hook everything back together the motor rocks back and forth but does not spin you say the motor is bad, which conflicts with the ohms test, Could you please advise if further tests can be performed to help diagnose the problem, Thank you.
+Pee Dee If the motor is rocking back and forth, then the module is looking for direction. If it continues to rock and not run, it cannot find the proper direction due to an issue with the module. The module is bad and will need to be replaced. We do not replace just the module. We will need to replace the motor and the module.
+Technical Services I had the same problem December 2013 and replaced the module but not the motor, could this be the reason why the module failed, I have read other posts on line, advising that the module can be replaced if the motor checks out good, Thanks
+Pee Dee We used to be able to replace the module or the motor depending on which was bad. At this time we cannot get just the motor or just the module. They now come as a pair. It should not affect it if one was replaced and not the other. The only reason we change both is that it is how they are sold to us.Thanks!
Yes, you can change 'just' the module. Then, the next month you can go back when it all fails and change both. Get an extra service call, too. lol
Thanks. looking forward to next video about using PSC Motor on the blower.
What about blow motor won’t turn off number 4
How is current measured for an ECM motor to make sure that it is not over current?
Are there any more details you can provide regarding motor rocking back and forth? Is it the only course of action to replace both the fan control module and the fan too?
We would be happy to look into this. Please provide your contact information and unit serial number to customerrelations@enertechusa.com so that we can determine the best way to address your questions.
Good video
excellent video well presented
Thanks- very helpful.
Great video! A question about rocking back and forth and NOT being the module?...
My blower motor will, once in a while, continue to rock back and forth without turning on completely. This has caused my coils to freeze and my limit switch to pop while in heat. Most times, however, the blower will turn on completely!
When calling for fan only, I receive 24 volts from the thermostat at "R" and "G". However, when going from the 16 pin header on the control board (ECM 2.3) the "G" pin (#15) only sends 15 volts to the motor module. The harness is fine as it shows continuity for all lines.
Is the 15 volts that leaves the control board and goes to the motor module the issue causing my blower motor to sometimes stay rocking back and forth without turning on completely? Or would you assume it's the motor module and the 15 volts out of the control board is not the problem?
Hi there! Thanks for the comment. When the blower wheel rocks back and forth, the module is trying to find proper direction. If it continues to do that then the module will need to be replaced. As far as the voltages go, if there is at least 14 volts to the module then the module will recognize that as a call and should start the motor. Again, if the module rocks back and forth that is not a voltage issue but a module issue.
@@EnertechUniversity Great! Thanks. Any videos on repairing ECM modules or what to look for? I've seen a couple talking about swapping out thermistors but mine does not look damaged.
@@3000Marc Same here. What was your fix?
You said "If the motor continues to rock and does not start it must be replaced," but you didn't explain what causes that problem.
The program data inside motor screwed. And we don't have any tools to recover it.