How to tell if an Inducer Motor is BAD: Explained Step by Step
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- Опубликовано: 26 июл 2024
- How to Tell if an Inducer Motor is BAD: Explained- Troubleshooting the Inducer Motor step by step. This is the first thing to turn on during the sequence of operation for 80% to 95% efficient Gas Furnaces. Supervision is needed by a licensed HVACR Tech while performing tasks as Experience and Apprenticeship garners Wisdom and Safety.
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I am working on the same brand furnace Carrier. It is a two stage. Flame is not getting pulled through the heat exchanger correctly. A lot of yellow. The inducer seems to be working correctly but the water column is low. How can you tell if it is a clogged secondary heat exchanger, or it is a poorly performing inducer?
Thank you, I’m going to watch all this stuff!
Go to the channel homepage ruclips.net/user/acservicetechchannel for all the playlists, thanks!
Thanks for the help , just pulled a bird out of inductor motor. You saved the day ! A good lesson for my daughter.
George, nice!
very nice job!!!
Appreciate the details I'm out of my league on this 1 but atleast i knew what to tell my uncle
Thanks for the Comment!
Hello and thank you for your video. I haven't yet started the diagnostics you recommended but would like your input. My Amana furnace (installed late 2010) turned on without any issue this season but after a few weeks I noticed the house was not warming up. I went to the furnace and noticed that the inducer was not running and was getting an error code for a faulty pressure sensor. Before watching your video I wasn't sure of the sequence (inducer should kick on first) of operation and thought it was the pressure sensor or a clogged vent. I know I shouldn't have but after blowing into and sucking on the pressure sensor tube I could hear the sensor click and after about 30 seconds the inducer turns on and the furnace worked for about 3 days and then stops. I blew and sucked into the tube again and again the inducer turns on and the furnace runs normally. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.
i love your videos you realy explain. everything so well ty
Thanks David!
Very helpful videos. Thank you.
Thanks for the video, it save my lot of money.
Thanks PovMoua!
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Avo Avo!
Awesome, please more videos
Thanks so much
very educative thank you . regards
Thanks Sesha!
Great Video! Quick question, my heat won't turn on, and my inducer motor when I touch it is really hot to the touch. When I spin the motor wheel and power cycle the Furnace, the until will work for a day or 2 then stop working, and I need to repeat the above, I am guessing the motor is bad?
Hello, I'm relatively new as a tech in a sense. I recently came to an indicer motor that was pulling considerably less amps than it was rated for. The motor was rated at 2.7A but It was only pulling 0.9A. In all the tune ups, I've never seen one pull such low amperage. I've seen induces pull over amps, but never that far under. Are you aware of any reason that could happen ?
GREAT THANKS.
Thanks Michael!
Thanks
GREAT VIDEO! Like the way you make it so straight forward. So if I am getting the 120V to hot and common wires of the motor the motor is definitely bad and then needs to be replaced correct?
If the capacitor is good if it has one and the motor will not start when 120v is applied then yes you would need to replace.
I replaced my inducer motor and blower wheel because of bearing noise. Got them separately on Amazon. Now I got a lot of orange flame. Flame looks like crap. It was nice and blue before. Also seems like the flames are not being pulled/stretch enough inside the exchanger because the flames are not a narrow as before.
Maybe didn't adjust the fan blade on the motor shaft far enough out?
Maybe the new cheap Amazon blower wheel sucks?
I got a nanometer, but haven't checked the vacuum on the inducer yet. Not sure if the manual has a spec or not.
Thank's.
Thanks Luc!
Very instructive. If ever you can explain how to troubleshoot ECM inducer, that would help me to. Thank's for your good work
Ok you really need to look up the manufacturers troubleshooting guidelines on those. The control board actually talks in millivolt dc back and forth to the ecm inducer. There is no 24v override to check if it is working like the ecm 3.0 blower motor, thanks
Thanks for the video ACSERVICETECH! I like to ask a question on gas furnaces. What is the reason why some have the inducer located above the manifold and others are located below. I am just now getting to work with gas units since getting out of school. The complex I work at has mostly oil and electric. Also can you do some more videos on the sequence of operation and gas valve checks. Thanks a lot, you have no idea how much this is helping me.
Most furnaces are multi poise which means vert, downflow, horizontal right and horizontal left. Also different manufacturers orient them differently. The units could be downflow you are looking at or the ones with the inducers above could just be earlier less efficient designs. I plan to make furnace videos before and during winter. I will likely be making gas line videos in between seasons. I am trying to hit the seasons for good exposure for our channel so we can share the knowledge with the most possible.That is great to hear!
Thanks for the reply! I look forward to the new videos coming. Thanks again.
NICK-O
what is a new motor suppose to read inwc ? a brand new so you can tell as reference?
Sir great video, what kind of oil do you recommend for the bearing , thks
Hey Scott, I have the Zoom Spout Oil linked here- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech
Good information, all right, ok....
Many many thanks
When enducor motor goes bad do you need to change the whole furnace? My furnace is over 40 yrs old
Inducer motor spins with no noise or resistance once it gets started but just doesn't want to start. I initially didn't see the capacitor as I figured it would be down with the blower capacitor but yeah..that's gotta be it. Thank you.
On my inducer motor, there are two wires that plug into the inducer. (White & black) when I have both of them plugged in the white one is sparking where it plugs in. Is this a problem? Everything works it blow's out heat. Also the flame's came back at me so I shut it down.
great info!
Thanks for the great video! I have a very noisy inducer which has just failed and I ordered a Rotom replacement. I didn't run any of the tests you showed as I think it is pretty clear the inducer is the issue. My concern is that on the new inducer, when I spin the shaft it appears that the impeller may be ever so slightly out of balance - it exhibits an almost imperceptible variance. I am wondering at what point does an out of balance impeller create a problem? As minor as it is I suspect it will run fine now, but worry a bit about down the road. How much tolerance can be expected? Perhaps I should exchange it, or accept the fact that a small amount is acceptable? Thanks so much.
Exchange it to be sure. Thanks
thanks for the quick response. I called the supplier and they are swapping it out no problem.
Great to hear!
i have 9 wires going to my inducer motor on my furnace. i get an error code that its failed. my motor reads 5.7m ohms which is way too high but what i dont know is if there is some kind of circutry inside the motor involving those other wires that will change the resistance of the coil. i have no external cap so that on the board, visually the caps are all electrolytic and none of them are popped. should i just buy a replacement motor and go from there?
Hello,my furnace is calling for heat but the inducer motor does nothing and is hard to spin however the board is giving the code it's the pressure switch?
You can also do an amp draw on the inducer before unhooking any wires or checking the cap and that will tell you if you have power going to the inducer
This is correct. If you have noticed in my videos, I always try to teach newer techs to check with resistance because it is safer and you know exactly what failed. If a tech chooses on their own to initiate their testing with amperage then they could. Thanks for pointing that out!
My furnace I’m making a humming vibrating type noise can this be the problem
My inducer motor ran but it didn't close the pressure switch every time. The igniter always lit up for the first time and turned itself off right away. The motor ran but gas valve didn't open, the control board gave 3 flashes for bad pressure switch. However, the igniter lit up for the second time and this time the gas valve opened. Is this because the inducer motor is bad? Thank you.
okay so my goodman gas package unit blows the circuit board fuse when the thermostat is turned to heat, but when I bypass the thermostat & thermostat wiring at the unit and hook the white to red, the heat works just fine. any advice?
brand new unit. single stage heat and cool, with single stage honeywell thermostat.
this is my second thermostat :-/ same symptoms...
Way late but for anyone else, your white wire may have a short. You can check continuity by turning power off and putting white and red or whatever other wire together then going to the thermostat and putting each lead on white and red in continuity. If it's open then there is a short. You also want to check to ground.
@@Big_Nasty966 ah thanks for getting back to me.
I figured it out: I'm not supposed to connect the blue wire to the thermostat. I haven't had a single problem with it ever since I changed that.
It might have been something particular to my thermostat. It's kind of funny that I built the ducts, built a custom filter housing with constant pressure monitoring, installed the concrete pad, installed the electrical and gas...and the only problem I had was with hooking up the thermostat =D
Hey my inducer motor is showing around 7ohms of resistance. Shot?
So I haven't done any testing yet on the cap or motor voltage or resistance. But reading the comments below you may be able to diagnose. So the motor will start running when I give it a spin. It will run for half a day or more then quit. Usually in the early morning hours when I wake to fine it cold in the house. I go out and give another' spin and it starts up no problem. I have found that the motor is warm and starting to smell. I have electrical background and know that's not good. I keep pushing it so I can find time to properly diagnose. I think it's the start cap, but if I don't replace soon I may be replacing an expensive motor too. What's your thoughts?
Sounds like it is the cap. This is a run cap but is needed to start. If it runs after spinning it by hand it will get very hot until the internal overload cuts the common wire out at 200-300 degrees. I would replace the cap as soon as possible. Make sure it is the exact same mfd/uF and voltage rating. Here is a video on what is happening to your motor, the internal overload ---- ruclips.net/video/IBg0EZg0ohY/видео.html
acservicetech it was the start cap. I replaced the run cap even though it didn't show signs of overheating. It part was a $2 plastic China cap mounted to the motor that you cannot purchase separately. The motor is $150. Don't you just love imported cheap crap? Could only find a 3 mfu, but was told it would burn motor up over time. Fortunately a friend of mine found a 2 mfu which was metal but much larger. He said even if I replaced the whole assembly the same part would go out in another 2 years. He replaced it and its working fine. I had to get a licensed contractor to do it to keep the warranty, but he saved me over $100.
Glad you got heat and everything is safe Matt!
I have the same happening with my inducer motor, I got a 31 code, the motor was overheating and wouldn't run unless I gave it some help by hand spinning it. It has been working now for a few days with no problems, but I did unplug the harness and checked resistance, I got all zeros reading between the black and the white wires, but the inducer motor has been working normally for the last 3 days. What gives? I haven't checked the cap yet. Will the ind.motor continue to work with zero resistance between the white and the black wires? Should I replace the capacitor or and the motor assembly too? Like I said it hasn't overheated since and has been working fine the last few days.
Awesome video! I have a question. My inducer motor winds up, but shuts down after spinning up for 2-3 seconds. Process then restarts, over and over again. Motor is getting 120v, Thermostat has been jumped. Voltage across R and C is 24v. Fuse on the board is good. Resistance between White and Black on the motor reads 3.7ohms. Is that too low? I had been thinking bad pressure switch since I blew into them and things worked temporarily after that, but the furnace manual's order of operations show a 15 second inducer pre-purge prior to the pressure switch step. Does that mean pressure switches shouldn't be considered a factor since the motor shuts off after only a few seconds? LED is not helpful. I just get a solid red LED(normal) until the motor shuts down and the LED turns off until the furnace restarts. The furnace is a 3yo Goodman gmss92.
Thanks if you took the time to read this! Please don't feel obligated to answer. Your video have been very helpful already. :)
You could temporarily jump the pressure switch to see if the inducer continues to run. If it does then remove the jumper and locate the problem with either condensate line clogged, exhaust clogged, tub clogged, bad pressure switch, low combustion air or another issue. Make absolutely sure not to keep the pressure switch jumped. This is an EXTREMELY IMPORTANT SAFETY. That is just for 30 seconds of testing only to see what is actually bad, thanks. Most of the time with the pressure switch, there is a problem with water or clogged tubes and not the pressure switch itself, thanks and search "acservicetech pressure switch troubleshooting playlist" for more info.
I jumped the pressure switch and the inducer ran like a champ. Checked continuity on switch and it was erratic, so I replaced the switch and all is good now! :) Once thing that threw me for a loop: I had to wait a moment after power up before jumping the switch. Furnace must not like to see a closed switch at when it starts.
Thanks a million for your advice! :)
Cool, glad you found the problem Raz!
So you have to short out capacitor to test it? What is good range mfd the capacitor should be? What kind of capacitor is it a start or run capacitor?
That is a run capacitor but it also helps to start the motor. You need to check the rating on the capacitor itself and if it outside of 5% of that you would replace with the same size, thanks
What if my ohm resistance is only 27.5? Coleman furnace very similar to yours. Capacitor for motor is a 4uf.
That sounds possible depending on the hp, thanks
An mini multimeter won't work and is this the reason my furnace makes humming noise and unable to heat sometimes since its 20 years old or between now?
Great vid, thanks. My inducer motor runs but the furnace won't ignite until I tap on the inducer motor somewhat lightly. The vacuum orifices are clear and tube is clear with no cracks. Any ideas? Currently working and I used pressurized air in a can to blow some debris out of the housing. Chances are I will have to tap it again in the morning. Btw, I have to buy a voltage tester so I have no answers there.
It is possibly that the tapping is making the pressure switch itself close because it is possibly hung up but the reality is nobody would be able to tell you anything without taking voltage and vacuum readings with a manometer, thanks
acservicetech Thanks for the response. I will be checking voltages soon as I get to town and spend some $
i would look into a digital manometer as well. Did you watch the "acservicetech pressure switch playlist" with other pressure switch troubleshooting?
acservicetech Thanks, gonna do that now.
What about if the inducer motor is going on and off while the air conditioner is running?I can hear it start up and then it will shut off and then start up and then shut off
What if my inducer fan I s running and I just replaced pressure switch ...what else can cause pressure issues I'm thinking maybe a crack some where I cant see because I feel no pressure at vynal tube
Look up a video I did, top 10 pressure switch error code problems, thanks!
hi, i was working on a unit heater. on a call for heat the board sends out 125vac to the venting motor BUT the motor won't spin. i checked motor ohms and got 8ohms. i replaced the motor BUT same problem. when i connected motor directly to 125vac line voltage motor spins fine. why does motor won't spin with 125vac from board? is this a bad board? thank you.
Interesting! Check the voltage by also measuring the hot at the inducer to the 120v common on the transformer. Also measure the common going to the inducer and the 120v hot at the transformer. Also measure the 120v output from the board at the inducer motor wire plug but with the inducer disconnected. Also wiggle the connector while measuring voltage. It may be a bad contact on the board or plug where you get voltage without a load and then once amperage is pulled, the contact has too high of a resistance for the voltage to remain at 120v, thanks!
My biggest problem is noisy inducers. One day, I heard a racket coming the furnace and isolated the noise to the inducer fan. I removed the inducer assembly and found four or five dead wasps inside the fan housing. Another time, the inducer was making a racket and I found a nail inside the fan housing. We had just had our roof replaced and a roofer must have shoved a nail into the furnace vent pipe somehow.
Oh wow, nice! I will be putting out a top 8 noisy inducer motor problems video tomorrow or sun, thanks
Should the inducer work if you apply 120 V to its terminals directly? I did that for a few sec and I only heard a humming sound.
Thanks.
There may be a capacitor mounted on it too that may be bad
@@acservicetechchannel It is pole shaded motor, I changed it and everything is fine now. Bought the motor for $135.
What if you don't have power coming into the induced draft motor, could that mean it's either the induced draft motor relay or the circuit board? Thanks. keep up the awesome vids.
You would check to see if you are calling for heat on the board by checking voltage from w to c terminals. If you read between 24-28.5 volts then the call for heat should start unless you have a broken safety sensor in which case you should be reading an error code on 90's and up furnaces. If no error code and you have a call for heat on the board but no power from the taps on the board to the inducer motor then it is likely that the inducer relay on the board is bad. Thanks. Great Question!
acservicetech Actually I do have a code, code 31 on a Carrier to be exact. I checked all safeties and everything checked out good. I'm going to have to go back and re - check all safeties again. I figured I'd have electric potential at the inducer draft motor for at least a few seconds, before the safeties kicked in. I'm a rookie HVAC tech trying to learn the tricks of the trade. Thanks
31 I believe is just the pressure switch did not close and that would be correct if the inducer motor is not turning on. Check out the one on reading wiring diagrams as I believe I go through live safety switch testing. ruclips.net/video/Ogi5FMFudtM/видео.html ------ Since you are reading a heat sequence error code, it sounds like you should be past the safety switches but check them anyway. Make sure to check for 120v coming off the board taps for the inducer motor. It sounds like the board but verify as much as you can first.
acservicetech I followed your advice and checked out the wiring schematic and travel of potential from beginning to end (which I had already done). All safeties were gtg, had potential all the way up to C and W when call for heat. No power coming off of the taps at the board for the inducer motor, which leads me to believe it's the board. New board on its way. Thanks for the advice.
JUST A QUESTION ABOUT THE AC SIDE OF THINGS:
If the condenser (the unit outside the house) does not come on, could this still be a Draft Inducer issue?
A draft inducer has to do with the furnace and the condensor has to do with the AC so no they would not be related, thanks
I just checked a trane package unit and the inducer motor was 170 degrees I told my customer that it was gone.can you tell me if I was correct. Thanks
The inducer motor on a 80%-98% efficient furnace should never be that hot, correct!
I don’t have an amp reader but curious to hear your feedback. I just turned the furnace on. Getting a small buzzing sound. Not a loud Humm, like I’ve seen in some videos.
I am replacing the capacitor. Am worried Becusse the inducer blower motor was pretty damn hot after 2 minutes.
What’s the difference between the inducer blower motor (mounted on the front of the furnace) and the blower motor on bottom of furnace attached to the wheel?
Having same issue myself. Small humming from the inducer motor.
@@MrSmith-ke1hb have you checked the capacitor on it?
@@MrSmith-ke1hb ruclips.net/video/ul3RiDNn6io/видео.html
@@MrSmith-ke1hb check that video out. I hope that helps
@@bobduffy7744 seized motor on a 24 year old unit. Fan was hard to even turn. Company not even around, luckily they had replacement. Ty for your vids.
Had a problem on a similar furnace as this one where I was receiving 24 volts on a call for heat and my inducer spun a few times then stopped. I then checked the capacitor and measured 4.91 on a 5uf so I knew that was ok. Then I checked the inducer by rotating it and it spun freely. So then I checked for voltage coming from the board to the inducer and measured only 65 volts, bad board?
Did you happen to check the incoming voltage and make sure that there was not a reduction in voltage there? I would follow this 120v all the way from switch outside to the connection to the board. If it is 120 on the board then yes bad board, thanks
I did not check voltage coming in only because my blower would start and run no problem but I will double check that to make sure I do have proper voltage to the board, thanks for your help.
Why do inducer motors seize up? I came across a goodman inducer that was stuck and when I started to rotate it then it started up but there was a really bad grinding noise to it but everything else worked fine and the furnace fired up. I checked ohms and everything was fine was reading OL from wires to ground and I was getting 120 so I was just wondering what causes that to happen? And can I put some lubricant on it to make it better or just replace it? Would it go bad again if I were to leave it?
Yes it will go bad if you leave it. If the motor has oiling ports and no one has been oiling it then the bearings go bad. If they are sealed bearings, they may have just went bad over time.
I'm getting an led indication on my board "pressure switch is open with inducer on" inducer motor runs but does not go beyond that. When I disconnect a tube running from pressure switch to the burner chamber and start the cycle again no blinking led, inducer motor runs, ignition begins and flames come on and lasts for about 15-25 seconds, flames go out and warm air turns to cooler air never reaching the desired temp. How can I further troubleshoot this?
You would need to look at the pressure switch and see what the water column reading is or look it up. Then take the negative pressure from the burner box and minus this number from the tube hooked up to the condensate drain or inducer motor to get the differential "wc which should be higher than the pressure switch. Thanks and here is the pressure switch playlist- ruclips.net/video/XKAyznghlro/видео.html
+acservicetech thank you for the assistance... I have since removed the inducer motor and realized a plastic seal was cracked and britle. I noticed a build up of crust like material around the intake. I cleaned it up and removed the broke seal and then reseated with high temp silicone sealant. The furnace now operates without error and goes through full cycle BUT the flames kick off after 30 seconds or so and the blowing air does not feel warm. Any suggestions
if you don't get 120vac to the motor then 100% the IFC is defective. is this a safe conclusion? thanks.
Check the contacts on the board first but yes if you have 24v between w and c and the blower motor is not running due to an open safety relay. I have seen loose connections on the wiring, thanks
How can I order the right part, is it with the model number on the equipment or on the motor, I recently ordered in Amazon and they sent me a smaller motor they said that the one y want is obsolete.
In reference to furnace parts, it is different than tools. I always go through my local distributors to get large furnace and ac parts for warranty, same or next day free delivery, and overall help finding the parts. Each local distributor will deal with a different manufacturer of hvac equipment. I have dealerships with each of them and if they deal with that manufacturer typically all that is required is model and serial furnace or ac unit. I do write down the part specs and ask them to read them to me when they figure out the part to verify if I have the correct one. I hope that helps, thanks Ruben!
acservicetech thanks a lot, I will like to support your channel.
Thanks Rubin, I am doing what I can for everyone! Here is the support url, thanks- www.acservicetech.com/support-acservicetech/
That gear clamp on the exhaust is very lose should tighten that up!!
What if you are not getting the 120 volts from your board to call inducer motor?
That is the problem I am having at the moment
Do you have 24v from w to c on the board as a call for heat?
My resistance is 211 is that high on the inducer motor
Wish had Patten on Furnance Blowers because they only good for five years motors go bad and they leaks.
Can an inducer motor still run and cause problems? I have an intermittent code 3 on my keeprite thats only 6 years old.
The furnace will run normally but sometimes about 4 or 5 mins into the heat cycle the burners shut off and the fan still runs for a good few mins then shuts off and turns right back on and will run again till it meets the temp called for.. ITs a odd issue and 3 hvac techs couldn't fix it on 3 seperate calls last winter.. It ran fine on ac all summer with no issues.. But now the weather is colder its acting up again.. I can always reset the panel switch and it will 100% always work for a little while, maybe a week or 2 weeks, maybe only 3 days etc but the same problem always happens and none of these local techs can peg down the problem..
The first tech said the inducer vent was blocked by snow and reset the panel, left the top panel off and said it was fixed. I tried telling him that it was running weird even before the snow came..
The second tech cleaned the drain lines and blew through the pressure switch, reset the panel and said it was fixed.. All within 2 weeks of the first tech mind you..
The third tech said the venting was slanted wrong and water was pooling in the exhaust line.. I watched him cut the line and drain a bit of water, re-level the line so it didn't pool anymore, reset the panel and said it was fixed..
The third tech said his next guess if the above didn't work, was a bad mother board @ 700 bucks...
Any ideas anyone? We are almost about to put a new furnace in at this rate as these service calls keep adding up in cost.. The warranty was done at 5 years apparently on my model.. Funny they sold me a 10 year warranty line of bs to sell me the furnace, but when problems arise its 5 years..
TJ L honestly I would establish proper airflow first. Amazing what not proper routing duct work and one closed register will do. Could be cutting off on high limit switch inside your heat exchanger. If it reads too hot in there it will shit off, once it cools down to the rating on the switch it will close and heat will start again. Do you have any of your supply vents closed? Kinks in ductwork?
Shut off not shit off 🤦🏻♂️
@@bpw7b3a69 I close one in the bedroom and one in the kitchen and one in the basement otherwise it gets too hot and the air is too dry. We only have it set to 66 and heat to 68.
Why would it start doing this 7 years in to install? WE always ran it like that..
I would open the vents and see if this fixes the issue. You’d be surprised. As for why it would do it now after seven years I couldn’t tell you. However I would start simple and work my way through to the bigger issues. You should always have all vents open.
@@bpw7b3a69 ill give it a try. thanks
Thank you for the very well-done video. Would appreciate any suggestions to solve my furnace problem - I have a hi efficiency furnace (ICP Furnace Model NHGK050AF01) , running on propane. Professionally installed in my garage about 10 years ago and used only sparingly during the winter months. Starting last November, the furnace began to malfunction... specifically, when called on for heat, the inducer motor comes on, then the igniter, followed by the gas. The flame is solid yellow and after a few "popping" episodes, the gas shuts down and the igniter/gas steps are recycled endlessly. I had the gas pressure checked by the propane company... no problem. Air intake seems clear. I found that when the exhaust pipe was disconnected from the inducer, the furnace ran fine. So I figured the exhaust pipe was blocked. I cleaned the pipe (nothing in it but some dust) and reinstalled it. Same problem. The inducer fan doesn't make any noise and "seems" to be expelling a considerable amount of air. The only thing I come up with is the inducer fan/motor is slowly failing and cannot move sufficient air through the furnace if there is the slightest restriction. I've had one heating contractor out here already, but he didn't check the airflow as I have just explained. (I am using an alternate heat source until I get the furnace up and running again). Comments please.
Most of these furnaces you cannot change anything on the inside of the furnace but the gas pressure as far as the efficiency is concerned. I would have someone check the outlet gas pressure going to the burners, if the complete conversion from nat gas to propane was originally installed correctly like the spring, possible air inlet plate, orifices, and outlet gas pressure. When these are incorrectly set, the propane will not burn blue. Also then the soot corrodes on the flame sensor and you can't prove the flame correctly which sounds like may be happening. Yes also have them check the water column negative pressure on the combustion box and the exhaust to see if they see a problem with that. The pressure switches could also be shutting your furnace off and then the sequence has to start over again. Check for an error code. Also have a combustion analysis done when they are finished. Make sure to tell them that you are looking for them to really spend the time it will take absolutely correcting the situation. You are not looking for someone with 15 service calls to try to do in a day to run in and leave. You just need to get the right company in there, that is all. Thanks
Thank you. The furnace was set-up for propane from the start and has been running without a hitch since when it was installed. It always burned with a nice blue flame until this issue began. I opened up the garage this morning and turned the furnace on with the exhaust pipe disconnected. It ran for about 5 minutes, then the yellow flame/popping/restart issue returned, which leads my novice brain to think the fault may lie with the condensation thingamig. I concur with the advice to get a competent furnace man out here. That's really the issue around here out in the sticks. A lot of "professional" HVAC guys until they run into a genuine problem, then they are lost.
If you have a blue flame and then the blower fan motor turns on and the flame starts popping and is yellow you want to look at a possible cracked heat exchanger. The air from the blower blows through the heat exchanger and out through the front of the combustion chamber. That would be a dangerous situation if that were the case. That would be a possibility of carbon monoxide into the air. Just letting you know so you are informed of the possibility and for something else for them to look for. If that is really what is happening you need to make sure that the tech has a co detector checking for 9ppm and have them come out as soon as possible. Thanks Jim
Solved the problem. I cleaned the burners and ran compressed air up through the heat exchanger. 10 years of carbon and dust came flying out the exhaust. Back to a nice, clean blue flame again. Thanks for all the information.
That's great to hear!
So I'm to the point where I check the capacitor and I'm got getting anything. I can see a spot on the wire heading off the capacitor where it looks as though it's contacted the frame and its burnt.
Make sure that after the power is off and that the capacitor is shorted very good with a non chrome painted bare metal screwdriver. Make sure to hold the probes in hard for 20 seconds to get an accurate reading for mfd. Sometimes the corrosion on the tabs stops the mfd reading from being read. If you have a 120v psc inducer motor and it has voltage then go ahead and give it a spin to start. If it continues then you know that either the cap is bad, the wires from the cap are bad or the start winding on the motor is bad. Don't continue to run the inducer without the cap because it will overheat. If the motor does not spin and cap is good turn the power off and do resistance checks. You should not have the hot or common having any resistance with ground. It should read overlimit when testing the motor leads to ground. Thanks
What if when you check for ohms of resistance, it is only showing 35 ohms instead of the 80 you are showing?
Each inducer motor will be different depending on the type of motor. It is likely good. If you were really concerned about it then you could check it with a megohmmeter. Is it not turning on?
It turns on everytime I was just making sure that the induction motor was not the problem. My issue is i receive a 31 code on my bryant furnace and there doesnt seem to be enough oxygen getting to the combustion chamber. When I take the cover off the chamber, it lights right up. If the cover is on, the pressure switch doesn't seem to activate correctly which is why i thought the induction motor was going bad.
I took a vacuum and blew out the intake to make sure there were no clogs too.
You want to check for a blocked intake air pipe for combustion, cracked heat exchanger- check co levels and if the flame is popping back at the combustion chamber when the blower turns on- usually the flame rollout switch will pop but not always, or a bad pressure switch. You should also blow out the condensate trap and lines with the pressure switch not connected and also check the port at inducer housing for the pressure hose to make sure it is not blocked off. Let me know how you make out. Thanks
took out all the condensate trap lines and the trap itself and blew them all out. No luck. The port at the inducer housing though seemed to be the issue. Took a toothpick and pushed into it and there was some sort of calcium buildup on my toothpick. Put it back together and now it seems to work just fine. Thanks a lot
Technician come over for regular check up An d told me my inducer motor need to be replaced because after running for awhile fell hot the motor no noise An d works fine until he said that
what causes a furnace to hum when not running
That would likely be the transformer. If it is really loud then just replace the transformer with one the same size, thanks
Thanks, do you know if a Aquatherm furnace is considered a geothermal system?
My replacement inducer motor has 3 wires... The original has 2 wires.... no one seems to talk about this.
So if capacitor is 3.5 what would be a bad mfd reading?
More than 6% off from the existing one would be bad, thanks
I would probably go with no more than 10% error but what are you measuring the capacitance with? Your measuring device may not be accurate so it's good to check it first with a known good capacitor. The truth is that most capacitors fail completely by open circuit internally. I suppose a capacitor could also short internally but I have replaced so many capacitors I just don't remember ever finding a bad capacitor like that. I always used an analog meter to see if the capacitor was charging normally.
What you mean it's not turning on. You just disconnected the wires and plugged your voltage meter instead.
I have 120 volts but nothing after 2 to 3 seconds
Do you still have 24v measured between w and c when you lose 120v to the inducer? If you do have 24v then the relay soldered on the board may be bad
I will check thank you for the reply
My inducer motor is whining real loud and i smell a burning funny smell in the house and the furnace is only like 9 years old??
You should turn the power off to the furnace and replace the inducer it sounds like. It sounds like the bearings or something else is bad but you could call a tech to verify, thanks!
Thank you
Glad to help!
You can’t even see the capacitor
Somebody used galvanized water pipe for gas pipe
There is no differentiation in black iron vs galvanized in the IFGC 2021. We live near the ocean and supply houses only supply galv. Black iron rots too quickly but in reference to nationally, there is no problem using galv unless your local inspector shows you some reference to a code that the city has adopted outside of IFGC, thanks!
If there’s no difference then use black iron where galvanized is supposed to be used. It’s your preference. Thanks