I've had sooooo many people ask me to try this too and I'm glad to hear you don't recommend it because while it sounds cool and "the next big thing", I kind of figured it would be a ventilation NIGHTMARE and I didn't even want to try it to further put it out into the world or to make it look like it's a safe thing to do because it's NOT. And kudos on the safety PSA as well.
1:15 I would have went with a plastic enclosure about 3 feet cubed with plastic gloves permanently sealed to the enclosure. It would require less material, and you can add layers as necessary if you want to multiply the safety. Also, if you manufacture it within a collapsible frame, you can store it and deploy it in seconds anywhere. With the right fittings, you can attach any size ventilation system to it which would be less taxing since you are ventilating a much smaller space.
@@Blox117 I found a spool of older solder from my Pop’s electronics equipment when I was a teenager. I spent a couple weeks making solder sculptures in an unventilated attic. I didn’t know that older solder had extremely high concentrations of lead. 😂
Please also wear full-length sleeves and a full face shield. This stuff gets aerosolized and all over everything. It's very bad if you breathe it in or get it on your skin. Signed MakerJuice SLA resin chemist.
@@GalacticArmory You should probably just take the video down, nice you realize you should have worn better protection now, but I seriously doubt those few kids who WILL try this (with their "it will not happen to me" mentality) will not even bother with the mask. Bad idea to spread this idea regardless.
@@Veefan3 Please do not misinterpret being direct with rudeness, especially when it comes to spreading information that can cause serious bodily harm to others. I still think this video needs to be taken down and replaced with one that shows how to do this in a safe manner, because that is what matters most, not the result. Nothing in the maker space is worth your health. If it were me, I could not sleep at night with this still being posted on the public internet, it needs to be taken down.
Full Proper paint station is really needed here and full ventilation as well. Love and appreciate the warning for everyone to here. Method to explore but only in the proper setup.
As others have mentioned in the comments, if your are Spraying anything through an airbrush, make a spray booth. Even hobby paints labeled acrylic can be toxic if you put them through an airbrush. With the resin if you use a spray booth ot will pull most of the excess resin into the filter and not have it sitting on your surfaces.
if you are using a hvlp paint gun to spray resin you should just scuff the part and use a 2k primer instead. For that bust I would just do light coats so as to not loose detail. I know sanding and scuffing sucks but its part and parcel with paint. love your content keep it up.
I was thinking about this, best way to do this safely would be to use an enclosure, like a sandblasting enclosure. It would contain the over spray and most of these enclosures have filtration.
Thank you for talking about safety concerns and always using your safety gear. It is always such a drawback when crafters post videos where they're not using respirators or eye protection/gloves.
I love it im working on it as of now . I agree . I have been a mold and resin kit maker for years not 3D parts regular kits . I used a mask every time how ever I just got a 3D printed helmet and I want to test this method. I have two helmets no loss I I screw up lol . Thank you for the warning definitely resin is not a joke .
Another suggestion that would make this process a bit safer would be to build a station along the lines of a Benchtop Abrasive Blast Cabinet. It would contain the overspray, gloves could be adapted and changed out. It could also be ducted outside from your work area, as well as customized for your brush hose and any other tools. This is just a thought from a Maker that hasn't tried it - Yet. Let me know if any one does try this out.
1:15 I would have went with a plastic enclosure about 3 feet cubed with plastic gloves permanently sealed to the enclosure. It would require less material, and you can add layers as necessary if you want to multiply the safety. Also, if you manufacture it within a collapsible frame, you can store it and deploy it in seconds anywhere. With the right fittings, you can attach any size ventilation system to it which would be less taxing since you are ventilating a much smaller space.
I'm thinking about doing this outside at night on a warm summer night, still fully masked up and gloved up. Might be the only way I'm able to get proper ventilation.
Very cool technique but yeah I can see how dangerous this can be. Ive gotten resin on myself before and not realized it and got a nasty chemical burn (back of my wrist touched the edge of the build plate with resin still on it). Resin tends to get everywhere even when you dont aerosolize it. This is a good technique to know about but I just dont have a space and setup I could do it safely in. Maybe one day I'll have my own shop.
Honestly dude massive props to you for this as it's legit scary how many comments are on that other video along the lines of "amazing idea you're a genius I'm gonna do this now!" And yet nothing about safety or what precautions to take. I was made aware of this by the creator Willow creative as she put out a warning not to do as he did and he responded to her by filing a copyright report (because she used a screenshot of the specific video) and one for "slander" 🙄 Honestly sad that someone cares so little about their audience but thankfully there's decent creators like you and her to raise awareness. Keep doing what you do dude ☺️
Have you considered doing this in a glovebox (the kind chemists use, airtight with built-in gloves)? Maybe with a small port drilled for the airbrush hose? edit: or a mycologist's "still air box" (usually much cheaper)
I'm looking at smoothing layer lines on surfaces that are sandable not limited to flat surfaces. It works to cure and then wet sand with 400 or higher between applications but again you get the brush strokes and even some bubbles which I have used mini torch to help expell. But that final layer is what I'm looking for to get that that gloss finish. The intent is to not spray anything else after that. I wonder if using a very fine bristle brush with alcohol thinned resin might yield just as good a final finish as the airbrush while eliminating the aerosol risk.
You need more than gloves and respirator (at least with UV resin), you really don't want to get uncured UV resin on your skin, so short of going all breaking bad with a full orange hazmat suit probably not a good idea in general. That and i wouldn't suggest using a good airbrush either :)
What cleaner do you use/would recommend for cleaning an airbrush I’ve been wanting to use mine more but I don’t know what cleaner I should use and what actually works for things like spaz stick
The photoinitiators in UV resin are cytotoxic, this is breathable chemotherapy. That respirator is not enough if you want to avoid damage at a cellular level. Get some tyvek jumpsuits while you're at it. Even with tamer styrene based resins being sprayed, full eye and mouth masks and tyvek suits are required in a work environment. I don't think I would even trust a ULPA filter to handle aerosolized UV resin. This Is one hobby material that you can't fuck around and take half measures with, and I hate that the maker community isn't more aware of how hazardous this stuff can really be.
I want to try this method I have paint booth but I will probably limit this even more by adding some editional walls to cover larger area and then I will sit my UV light in the middle of the booth and leave it there for a bit to actually cure all uncured resin in there But yeah.. working with resin for about two years this is really nasty stuff.. at first it does not seem like much but from experience I can tell that over time this resin really is a bad thing
This is really going to help me since I’m trying to make my own fett costume like you from your prints, and make my own prints to sand/paint and sell :)
Would it be possible to prepare an limited box and connected by a flexible duct to an air extractor directly to the outside? That way you could paint with the airbrush inside the box and since the air pressure is negative, all the toxic vapors would be expelled out of the room.
You need UV protecting glasses when using a UV light. Also there are non-toxic resins that helps a little. I'm curious if there is a better thinner for this.
In theory would the resin fill up those big cracks in the print or even some details if so would this be good to do for something as detailed as a halo helmet
I'm not at all into this whole resin stuff, I don't know anything about resin. Using my common sense, the only way I can think of here (as someone here also said) is getting a closed cabinet and using that. I can expect it to work pretty fine. The sprayed resin doesn't go all over the place and you don't really breathe it in. Just like a sandblasting cabinet, holding the airbrush with gloves attached to the tank. If we don't count the resin that gets sprayed anywhere else than the model and makes you lose money, this can be a solution I guess
@@GalacticArmory I mean for containment of the airborne resin, still no sanding. But maybe there would be overspray since its much smaller containment?
WOW, It's kinda hard for me to even conceive of the idea of spraying UV resin. I've got an airbrush spray booth and still use masks, but spraying resin!? Hell no.
Can I ask what settings do you use for your prints because they come out so clean. With my printer you can see they layer lines a lot and I am trying to figure out how to reduce them.
well, nice technique! but what about the heating from the photopolymer resin, when the UV light spots on ? -this effect makes me hesitate to work with it on 3D prints.
I do not think this is worth the hassle. We only have a very high-end airbrush, and I really do not want to risk it for this "gimmick". With the brush-on method with epoxy resin, you may have to sand, but to me it is well worth the effort. Sanding is not that hard to do IMO. Some ideas may sound great in theory, but are simply too dangerous to do in real life. If you have to basically put on biohazardous gear - no, thank you.
i dont want to be that guy whining about the safety measurements and i didnt look it up but im almost sure this stuff touching your skin can cause cancer, wear a lab coat or something not a tanktop🤣 verry good job on everything else
I prefer to use eco resin and to spray at night outside. I used to spray without gloves but I wear n95 mask. I knew it will only filter resin particles but it will allow organic compounds to pass-through. Eco resin is much safer if you wear cheap mask.
This kinda shit is why Darwin Awards exist, this stuff can be absorbed through the skin and your aerosolizing and swimming in it, in short order you'll develop an allergic reaction. Like yeah you put some warnings on this, but putting this out into the world as a "technique" is incredibly stupid.
I've had sooooo many people ask me to try this too and I'm glad to hear you don't recommend it because while it sounds cool and "the next big thing", I kind of figured it would be a ventilation NIGHTMARE and I didn't even want to try it to further put it out into the world or to make it look like it's a safe thing to do because it's NOT. And kudos on the safety PSA as well.
Thank you so much! It's definitely a quick way to make a dangerous mess everywhere
@@GalacticArmory I'm pretty sure I would have bricked my airbrush too, I've broken them for less
its completely safe, ive been snorting aerosolized resin particles since i was a child
1:15 I would have went with a plastic enclosure about 3 feet cubed with plastic gloves permanently sealed to the enclosure. It would require less material, and you can add layers as necessary if you want to multiply the safety.
Also, if you manufacture it within a collapsible frame, you can store it and deploy it in seconds anywhere.
With the right fittings, you can attach any size ventilation system to it which would be less taxing since you are ventilating a much smaller space.
@@Blox117 I found a spool of older solder from my Pop’s electronics equipment when I was a teenager. I spent a couple weeks making solder sculptures in an unventilated attic.
I didn’t know that older solder had extremely high concentrations of lead. 😂
Please also wear full-length sleeves and a full face shield. This stuff gets aerosolized and all over everything. It's very bad if you breathe it in or get it on your skin. Signed MakerJuice SLA resin chemist.
Yes, realized I should have worn a full suit after the fact
@@GalacticArmory You should probably just take the video down, nice you realize you should have worn better protection now, but I seriously doubt those few kids who WILL try this (with their "it will not happen to me" mentality) will not even bother with the mask. Bad idea to spread this idea regardless.
@@hiddenlawyerdon't tell them to takedown the video it's very helpful and you are rude
@@Veefan3 Please do not misinterpret being direct with rudeness, especially when it comes to spreading information that can cause serious bodily harm to others. I still think this video needs to be taken down and replaced with one that shows how to do this in a safe manner, because that is what matters most, not the result. Nothing in the maker space is worth your health. If it were me, I could not sleep at night with this still being posted on the public internet, it needs to be taken down.
Full Proper paint station is really needed here and full ventilation as well. Love and appreciate the warning for everyone to here. Method to explore but only in the proper setup.
As others have mentioned in the comments, if your are
Spraying anything through an airbrush, make a spray booth. Even hobby paints labeled acrylic can be toxic if you put them through an airbrush. With the resin if you use a spray booth ot will pull most of the excess resin into the filter and not have it sitting on your surfaces.
if you are using a hvlp paint gun to spray resin you should just scuff the part and use a 2k primer instead. For that bust I would just do light coats so as to not loose detail. I know sanding and scuffing sucks but its part and parcel with paint. love your content keep it up.
I was thinking about this, best way to do this safely would be to use an enclosure, like a sandblasting enclosure. It would contain the over spray and most of these enclosures have filtration.
Thank you for talking about safety concerns and always using your safety gear. It is always such a drawback when crafters post videos where they're not using respirators or eye protection/gloves.
Yea full length sleeves and a smaller contained area/paint booth is a must with all the proper PPE
I love it im working on it as of now . I agree . I have been a mold and resin kit maker for years not 3D parts regular kits . I used a mask every time how ever I just got a 3D printed helmet and I want to test this method. I have two helmets no loss I I screw up lol . Thank you for the warning definitely resin is not a joke .
Another suggestion that would make this process a bit safer would be to build a station along the lines of a Benchtop Abrasive Blast Cabinet. It would contain the overspray, gloves could be adapted and changed out. It could also be ducted outside from your work area, as well as customized for your brush hose and any other tools. This is just a thought from a Maker that hasn't tried it - Yet. Let me know if any one does try this out.
This channel is really underated, as you being a role model for me making clone helmets, I really hope your channel gets the attention it deserves!
I came up with the idea to try this as well. But I figured this was the worst idea I had it quite awhile before I pulled out my air brush.
1:15 I would have went with a plastic enclosure about 3 feet cubed with plastic gloves permanently sealed to the enclosure. It would require less material, and you can add layers as necessary if you want to multiply the safety.
Also, if you manufacture it within a collapsible frame, you can store it and deploy it in seconds anywhere.
With the right fittings, you can attach any size ventilation system to it which would be less taxing since you are ventilating a much smaller space.
I'm thinking about doing this outside at night on a warm summer night, still fully masked up and gloved up. Might be the only way I'm able to get proper ventilation.
Very cool technique but yeah I can see how dangerous this can be. Ive gotten resin on myself before and not realized it and got a nasty chemical burn (back of my wrist touched the edge of the build plate with resin still on it). Resin tends to get everywhere even when you dont aerosolize it. This is a good technique to know about but I just dont have a space and setup I could do it safely in. Maybe one day I'll have my own shop.
Honestly dude massive props to you for this as it's legit scary how many comments are on that other video along the lines of "amazing idea you're a genius I'm gonna do this now!" And yet nothing about safety or what precautions to take.
I was made aware of this by the creator Willow creative as she put out a warning not to do as he did and he responded to her by filing a copyright report (because she used a screenshot of the specific video) and one for "slander" 🙄
Honestly sad that someone cares so little about their audience but thankfully there's decent creators like you and her to raise awareness.
Keep doing what you do dude ☺️
Have you considered doing this in a glovebox (the kind chemists use, airtight with built-in gloves)? Maybe with a small port drilled for the airbrush hose?
edit: or a mycologist's "still air box" (usually much cheaper)
I'm looking at smoothing layer lines on surfaces that are sandable not limited to flat surfaces. It works to cure and then wet sand with 400 or higher between applications but again you get the brush strokes and even some bubbles which I have used mini torch to help expell. But that final layer is what I'm looking for to get that that gloss finish. The intent is to not spray anything else after that. I wonder if using a very fine bristle brush with alcohol thinned resin might yield just as good a final finish as the airbrush while eliminating the aerosol risk.
You need more than gloves and respirator (at least with UV resin), you really don't want to get uncured UV resin on your skin, so short of going all breaking bad with a full orange hazmat suit probably not a good idea in general. That and i wouldn't suggest using a good airbrush either :)
Good idea. I use water based resin on my Mars 2. Will work this kind of resin? Do you mix with water or alcohol? Thanks.
Have you tried spraying it outdoors at night ?
What cleaner do you use/would recommend for cleaning an airbrush I’ve been wanting to use mine more but I don’t know what cleaner I should use and what actually works for things like spaz stick
The photoinitiators in UV resin are cytotoxic, this is breathable chemotherapy. That respirator is not enough if you want to avoid damage at a cellular level. Get some tyvek jumpsuits while you're at it. Even with tamer styrene based resins being sprayed, full eye and mouth masks and tyvek suits are required in a work environment. I don't think I would even trust a ULPA filter to handle aerosolized UV resin. This Is one hobby material that you can't fuck around and take half measures with, and I hate that the maker community isn't more aware of how hazardous this stuff can really be.
What 3d printer do you use? Where can I get material?
I want to try this method I have paint booth but I will probably limit this even more by adding some editional walls to cover larger area and then I will sit my UV light in the middle of the booth and leave it there for a bit to actually cure all uncured resin in there
But yeah.. working with resin for about two years this is really nasty stuff.. at first it does not seem like much but from experience I can tell that over time this resin really is a bad thing
This is really going to help me since I’m trying to make my own fett costume like you from your prints, and make my own prints to sand/paint and sell :)
this is soooo helpfull
Would it be possible to prepare an limited box and connected by a flexible duct to an air extractor directly to the outside?
That way you could paint with the airbrush inside the box and since the air pressure is negative, all the toxic vapors would be expelled out of the room.
You need UV protecting glasses when using a UV light.
Also there are non-toxic resins that helps a little. I'm curious if there is a better thinner for this.
Thx so much for this info
I worry about it getting in peoples eyes through being aerosolized and building up over time.
Would a fume extractor on your paint table help stop the spread of of the resin?
does the resin work with any type of filament or just a specific type like PLA
Should work with any kind of filament
What 3D printer would you recommend for beginners that want to start making helmets. Preferably one that can make it in one whole print if I wanted to
The cr-10 series is a good start!
@@GalacticArmory Thank you
In theory would the resin fill up those big cracks in the print or even some details if so would this be good to do for something as detailed as a halo helmet
I'm not at all into this whole resin stuff, I don't know anything about resin. Using my common sense, the only way I can think of here (as someone here also said) is getting a closed cabinet and using that. I can expect it to work pretty fine. The sprayed resin doesn't go all over the place and you don't really breathe it in. Just like a sandblasting cabinet, holding the airbrush with gloves attached to the tank. If we don't count the resin that gets sprayed anywhere else than the model and makes you lose money, this can be a solution I guess
You can actually use resin with isopropyl alcohol and a brush. Same effect just faster on less dangerous.
Why didnt you just use a still air box with a flow hood with hepa filter?
Have you ever used renolds XTC-3d resin
Build yourself a small filtered spray both to suck the overspray into a filter model car guys build and use them all the time.
I wonder if a diy sandblasting cabinet of sorts would be a good way of going about the airbrushed resin…
I wondered as well but directly sanding the plastic doesn't yield the best results
@@GalacticArmory I mean for containment of the airborne resin, still no sanding. But maybe there would be overspray since its much smaller containment?
@@augustochavez9449 that’s an interesting idea
WOW, It's kinda hard for me to even conceive of the idea of spraying UV resin. I've got an airbrush spray booth and still use masks, but spraying resin!? Hell no.
Isn’t that UV light dangerous as well?
Can I ask what settings do you use for your prints because they come out so clean. With my printer you can see they layer lines a lot and I am trying to figure out how to reduce them.
This one was .2mm layer height. If you're seeing a lot of layer lines it might also be something mechanical with your printer causing them
well, nice technique! but what about the heating from the photopolymer resin, when the UV light spots on ? -this effect makes me hesitate to work with it on 3D prints.
It doesn't heat up too bad so long as you don't have any on your skin you'll be okay
Danger danger that leaves a lot of resin on the desk 👍🏻 no good for my workshop no we’re near enough ventilation
Welcome to the Darwin awards. Anyone who does this outside of an industrial paint room, and full ppg deserves everything they get.
Nice work
Is this a fdm or sla print?
Why not just use a clear coat or a smooth paint? Model varnish could do I as well, this is dangerous.
DO NOT DO THIS
Spray getting all over us why we use a spray booth.
what about a sponge?
I guess the other video of the guy recommending this method is the one with the comments turned off Lol.
I do not think this is worth the hassle. We only have a very high-end airbrush, and I really do not want to risk it for this "gimmick". With the brush-on method with epoxy resin, you may have to sand, but to me it is well worth the effort. Sanding is not that hard to do IMO. Some ideas may sound great in theory, but are simply too dangerous to do in real life. If you have to basically put on biohazardous gear - no, thank you.
Hoping for first order jet trooper or tank trooper armour
I’m a stoner. I was thinking a different kind of resin.
maybe try heating the resin resevoir to improve flowability of resin?
i dont want to be that guy whining about the safety measurements and i didnt look it up but im almost sure this stuff touching your skin can cause cancer, wear a lab coat or something not a tanktop🤣
verry good job on everything else
420 views, nice
I prefer to use eco resin and to spray at night outside. I used to spray without gloves but I wear n95 mask. I knew it will only filter resin particles but it will allow organic compounds to pass-through. Eco resin is much safer if you wear cheap mask.
This kinda shit is why Darwin Awards exist, this stuff can be absorbed through the skin and your aerosolizing and swimming in it, in short order you'll develop an allergic reaction. Like yeah you put some warnings on this, but putting this out into the world as a "technique" is incredibly stupid.
You are exposing bare skin to resin AND ipa. Interesting.
Nooooo
Smh 🤦🏼♂️ if you think this is dangerous don’t try and paint silicone anytime soon lol