Love it jessy! I really appreciate the shout out. I’m glad you were able to spread the word more on this process. Obviously it may not be for everyone but it can be very effective in a finishing arsenal & as you stated proper ppe & safety everyone! Be on the look out for that DW care package. Keep those videos coming & thank you! If you guys aren’t subbed you need to be, jessy does so much for our 3D print community & he’s doing it again here!
I'm glad I got back into watching UJ's videos if only because it lead me to you. I grew up in a body shop so I can definitely appreciate the process. Time to hit up harbor freight while my Mjolnir helmet prints on my Sunlu s8 pro (cr 10 knockoff).
You know the best part of this video? When the adaptor was incorrect for the airbrush so you were able to just 3D print one. That, right there, is my favourite part about 3D printing. Amazing video as usual dude, always a fantastic watch 💪
I've been doing this with regular injection molded plastic models for decades. learned the trick from Dave Merriman when I lived in Virginia Beach. I haven't done the airbrushing, but I have been brushing on thinned glazing putty to fill seams and gaps. I use a product called Nitro-Stan instead of Bondo glazing, but Bondo will work also.
I've got another option people can try as well. I've been using Evercoat Featherfill G2 Primer for quite some time now, works in pretty much the same way. It fills layer lines, gives a well bonded hard surface that is easily sanded and takes any paint you want to use on top of it. I used it, or similar products for many, many years for other work projects, model building, and to help fill tooling marks from fabrication on a variety of materials. I carried it's usage over to my 3D printing obsession a handful of years ago and it's all I use now. It makes sense that the spot putty works well, since once it's thinned it works like a high build primer/filler/surfacer when sprayed onto a 3D print. Featherfill is expensive at $125/gallon now (used to be about $75 just a year ago), but it goes a LONG way when airbrushing especially when thinned down. It does also come in quarts if you need less.
You can also buy primer filler that basically does the same thing. It's a thick primer that fills in layer lines pretty good. I have used it many times. I often spray, sand, spray & a final sand then paint.
Great idea! I use this stuff already along with rapid build primer to smooth my sla prints and turn them into mould masters for casting, but I never thought of spraying it. The bondo spotting putty is so "dusty/dry" when sanding, it's really nice to work with. I've tried other solutions but most of them are "gummy" when you try to sand them. Great video!
I believe it was recommended to use a gravity fed airbrush for this process. You used a siphon airbrush. I wonder how different the results were between both types.
Honestly I seen no difference in using the gravity. They definitely make ones with larger reservoirs vs siphon receptacles but you don’t want to go crazy with large amounts of acetone. Small amounts of acetone especially when exposed to UV light are extremely volatile & less dangerous. So on a safety scale anything around 35ml or less is better.
Ex autobody guy here. Don't use single stage solvent based fillers. They will continue to off-gas and the material will shrink over time. Your print lines can return weeks or months later and ruin your otherwise perfect topcoat. It's not much different than shrinking joint compound when refinishing and painting a wall.
I think what he’s saying is to use regular 2 part bondo, but the thing is that all fillers tend to shrink over time to varying degrees. But I think your applying this in such thin amounts the shrinkage will be negligible. One thing I would do if using this process, which is what I do when using glazing compound already, is wait a day before you primer it so that it off gasses plenty before you seal it in. May not matter when you consider the tiny amount on there but I’ve not had any issues so far of layer lines showing up later, at least not yet.
@unclejesey. I like this idea. It reminds me of how I use to smooth old plaster walls with heavy textures. I am a drywall taper of 26 years. I specialized in restoration of vintage homes. We would trowel on the first 2 coats then spay thin mud on to fill pin holes and the like. But we did not sand the first 2 coats, we would scrape the high spots. So this raises the question of why you don't use scrapers at the start to knock down the high ridges of layer lines. I believe that it would greatly reduce the filling and sanding. Cabinet makers have been doing this for centuries. It reduces the risk of making the harder wood grain to ridge up. A set of cabinet scrapers are cheap. I don't 3d print, yet. So it would be a interesting idea to try out for a video as a finishing video related to this video. 🤔 Keep up with your awesome work. You are definitely the resin printer king 🤴 👏. Cheers for now from Calgary Alberta Canada 🇨🇦 👍 😀 👏
Having a set of scrapers should be in everyone’s toolbox that is 3D printing however it’s not always neccisary to scrape your parts. The idea here is to speed up the process. This method coupled with filler primer goes a long way in speeding up and reducing sanding time. 3D printing is already slow if you have a Cartesian printer at 60-80 mm per second, a bit faster if you have a flsun super racer 200 mm per second and ever faster still if you have a Bambu labs x1 carbon 300-500 mm per second, but even then many of these parts eat a lot of time just printing, then more time tediously sanding. With intricate detailed models, like the interior of the mask he used, it’s almost impossible to sand. Sand blasting with walnut media will reduce detail more then the method used in this video. Like with all things 3D printed it’s a trade off. Certainly another tool for the toolbox, but not for every build.
Nail polish remover or 90% proof IPA has also been highly recommended for thinning spot putty, for working materials less harsh than acetone. Respirator mask is still mandatory in a well ventilated area, make sure the filters are rated for chemical fumes & not just dust.
I have also heard that in some circles that people are using this technique and then during the sanding process they’re using an abrasive cabinet. Using a fine granite silica to lightly sand blast the parts.
Awesome video! Since you already have the compressor setup, a good way to sand the backside might be to use a sandblaster or other abrasive media like walnut shells. Harbor Freight sells a chamber for this to recycle the media, but you can also do it open air if you don’t mind losing the abrasive after using it once. I have been wanting to try it, but have not yet been able to make the space in my house! Might be a great way to get consistent sanding quickly and to smooth out high detail areas!
As usual, your video’s are awesome. Thank you! Personally, what I do is Elmer’s Wood Filler - water it down then paint it on the model. Wait for it to dry, then sand back. Layer lines disappear. For a piece that’s glued to another piece - Elmer’s Wood Filler (not watered down) applied to the gap - again, sand down, and the gap disappears (as long as you apply it properly). Thank you again for your awesomeness.
Coming from an ex-body man, that putty is virtually a thick primer. Although acetone will work, lacquer thinner would probably work better. The problem with this method is the material (putty/primer) will shrink over time, which eventually all the lines and flaws you are trying to cover will start to show through six months to a year later. To eliminate this altogether, I would recommend a catalyzed primer from an automotive paint supplier, which is typically a two-part mix. It might get a little pricey just to forewarn you, but it will probably sand much better than Bondo and give better results. JMO.
Question I found on a review for the Saturn... I'm researching and have come across your videos so I'm just asking you. Is it really necessary to buy all of this to use the Saturn S???? (the following is from the review) "Here are the items you should buy with it:- Curing & washing machine- Lots of resin (recommend water washable unless you know a plumber)- Gallons of 99% alcohol- Chemical gloves (reusable)- Spray bottles- UV protective glasses- UV flashlights / lights- Lunch trays- Slap mats for spills- A cover if you do curing next to printer- Tons of shop paper towels (not regular)- FEP replacement film- Good tweezers for remove supports- A respirator for VOCs- Good hobby knife set- Bulk paint brushes and Qtips for connecting parts- Bamboo toothbrushes for cleaning before curing- Small jars for resin painting / gluing- PTFE if you have bad FEP film- Screen protector for LCD- Extra build plates to keep printing while you clean prints- Extra resin trays for quick swapping- Funnels- Funnel paint filters for failed print resin- Adhesive handles for handling the shell carefully- Magnetic removal plates are a must (measure you build plate before ordering)- Good blow dryer- Digital calipers- USB extension cable- Ventahood or air purifier for VOC and alcohol fumes (your whole house will smell like alcohol and rubber)- Solid level surface- Climate controlled area- Sink with drain filter to catch support debris- Bright non-fluorescent lighting- A powerful computer (or patience to the moon) for splicing software- Possibly the premium versions of CAD and splicing software."
I appreciate your take on this method and construction of the video. Firstly that you cover safety, PPE, and realistic cost. Second that you actually titled the video appropriately and didn’t allude to some new and better method. It’s just you. Spraying some bondo. With that, I feel like this is literally just a can of spraypaint filler primer with WAY more steps lol 😂 that you still have to sand down anyway.
That spot putty is my go to filler and I have thinned it with acetone before - it makes it easier to get in to tight areas that you couldn't get if you were spreading it - but I never though about spraying it. Might have to get a cheap airbrush and give that a try!
I've been tempted to run this stuff through my airbrush, especially when working with highly detailed objects. Good to see that it actually works. I may have to get a second airbrush for this purpose.
Thanks for interjecting about the use of Acetone and ventilation. I'll add to that, though. Be EXTREMELY careful when using fans for ventilation. Acetone WILL EAT the plastic coating on wiring. We had a garage explosion here in KC a few years ago that set fire to the house. Even though the guy was using a gigantic floor fan for ventilation, the fan shorted and vapor/particulates in the garage space blew up, according to the report from the fire department. Just be aware and be careful.
@@UncleJessy Dude, you do great stuff. I'm the son of a fireman and I've built plenty of DIY spray booths myself. As long as people understand how over-spraying works, what they are spraying, and how flammable particulates are common sense goes a LONG way. The explosion was not far from my house and on a busy street, when it happened there were lots of questions as to what caused the explosion. The same goes for woodworking dust collection. Sawdust generates a lot of static electricity so collectors and their ducts get grounded with copper wire. Keep cranking out the good stuff!
I wonder if Bondo would ever make essentially that’s a much thinner product still the glazing spot putty look like thinner to go through airbrushes for 3-D printing or other applications I’m sure there are other applications where that would be helpful but Bondo is used so heavily in the 3-D printing community that we are definitely maybe not a target demographic but definitely a sizable amount of their demographic I think a lot of people would purchase that for this purpose it’s a lot less messy if you’re not having to mix it if you don’t have to mix it then as long as you’re careful the only thing you have to clean up is the airbrush
It definitely helped and worked... I think you got better results than typical because of the surface finish silk pla tends to have. I'm not sure the results are worth aerosolizing the stuff, plus all the mess. But it does work...interestingly.
Please be aware that acetone in combination with air will build up an explosive gas. Lower explosion limit 3vol% and upper explosion limit 13 vol%... nice vid thx
Jessy, you should wet sand that surface after hitting it with spot putty! if you do that and work up to super fine grits, you can get CRAZY good finishes.
Duplicolor's filler primer takes about an hour or two, but sanding it can be a real pain because some of the material tends to stay in the sand paper and clogs it up; does that happen with this method as well? (I do use spot putty to fill gaps and see it doesn't, but I haven't covered large areas)
@@UncleJessy cool, some time I'm going to try it, as I have a big tube of green spot putty from 3M which I'm pretty sure It will last a LONG time if using it just to plug holes
Hmm, would it be possible to see this compared to just using filler primer? I get you might have a little more control with the finer spray but it just seems like your diying something you might be able to just get in a can. :) Thanks for the video, always very informative!
the quick change harbor freight airbrush is the only airbrush that you can change colors without cleaning it. i think, for that reason alone, it is the best airbrush🤷♂️
I believe it was actually Ben Eadie that came up with the idea of thinning spot putty with acetone that darkwing dad then took to the next level and sprayed through an airbrush
hmmm I'm going to have to look into a primer/filler that I can put through my Iwata... I wonder how well it will fill with just paint? I have yet to paint any of my 3D prints but would like to airbrush them...
Nice bit of information! Airbrush question: I've never owned one and would love to get into using one for painting. The harber freight shop near me doesn't have them airbrush kits and to be fair I'm not sure I'd want to start with something that don't come with its own air compressor as I don't feel comfortable enough to run my normal one for my resin pressure pot as it's calibrated for well... my pressure pot and I really don't want to mess with that setup. What would be a good brand that youed recommend for a beginner that does comes with everything needed?
This is fantastic, but my concern is that acetone will eat the rubber seals in your airbrush. Has that been your experience? Are there any other solvents that would work that are rubber safe?
what nozzle was this iron month printed on? This is an excellent video. I wonder if you don't use this often what other option you actually fall back to
What plastics are you using to mix it with? I know acetone will melt a lot of plastics if you choose the wrong plastic. I learn that the hard way with a Dixie cup. Lol
Have you tried a larger harbor freight 20oz gravity feed paint sprayer yet? I was curious if that would be a quicker way to spray your prints. Especially larger prints or multiple prints at a time. Might also be to much spray volume.
Hey, Jessy - Do you think you could apply that bondo-acetone mix with a disposable hand brush? I'm planning to make a 1/6 scale chevelle and could use this method for cleaning the joints of glued-together pieces.
Just buy a can of primer with filler in it. Rust Oleum makes it in a rattle can. Spray it over your prints and then paint them or lightly sand them prior, its up to you.
I would imagine they are pretty similar results. One bonus of the bondo is that it seems to dry really fast compared to the primer filler which can take a while
While it's a very interesting idea, I'm just so hesitant to do this because of the potential damage to air brushes + the toxicity of acetone. Just seems like the cons outweigh the pros here. But I appreciate your video on the subject, I certainly list you as the expert when it comes to 3D print stuff.
Hi uncle Jessy, love your channel and your guides are alway helpful. I’m in the uk and bondo is harder to come by. Can you make any other suggestions to use as a filler (dosent have to be sprayed)?
How was the cleanup of the airbrush? I know you said you bought the cheap airbrush so you didn't care if it clogged, but were you able to clean it so it can be kept as your "I don't care" airbrush or is this close to a 1 project 1 airbrush project?
@@tiffanysandmeier4753 I’ve tested both on siphon & gravity, it did build up a tad on the siphon but I think bc mixed it on the fly and the mix seperated a bit. Unclogging it was nothing more than fully tightening the nozzle, wiping with a qtip and than good to in seconds.
Have you try resin in a airbrush ? I just seen video by The Creative Collector and seem to work -not trying promo another channel etc but figure if you wanted to see it , You know where to go.
Have you tried using something like Gunze Mr. Surfacer 1500, It comes in different grades like sandpaper? I found out about it recently and would love to see how it compares to this method.
So how different is this from that "filler primer" you can get in a rattle can? Seems like it does the same thing, but I wonder if the filler primer is better if you're printing in ABS or ASA since the print would be affected by the acetone you're using to thin the bondo...
Here is a link to the airbrush adapter that I printed in this video
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4138696
What kind of pressure does the airbrush run?
Hey UJ, have you had any issues using this technique since you did this a couple of months ago?
Love it jessy! I really appreciate the shout out. I’m glad you were able to spread the word more on this process. Obviously it may not be for everyone but it can be very effective in a finishing arsenal & as you stated proper ppe & safety everyone! Be on the look out for that DW care package. Keep those videos coming & thank you! If you guys aren’t subbed you need to be, jessy does so much for our 3D print community & he’s doing it again here!
I'm glad I got back into watching UJ's videos if only because it lead me to you. I grew up in a body shop so I can definitely appreciate the process. Time to hit up harbor freight while my Mjolnir helmet prints on my Sunlu s8 pro (cr 10 knockoff).
Your method is genius! I'll be using it ASAP. Have a good week Darkwing Dad!
@@beefknuckles thank you so much! It really is an efficient way to clean up prints! Glad you like it!
You know the best part of this video? When the adaptor was incorrect for the airbrush so you were able to just 3D print one. That, right there, is my favourite part about 3D printing. Amazing video as usual dude, always a fantastic watch 💪
15-20 mins later I had a fix haha
@@UncleJessy the 3D printed dream right there!
Hey do you have a link to the adapter? I just picked up that set from ebay about a week ago.
@@eddiebe22 it's in the top comment if you haven't seen it already.
At the same time something like that shouldn't of even been needed which shows how cheap Harbor Freight products really are.
I've been doing this with regular injection molded plastic models for decades. learned the trick from Dave Merriman when I lived in Virginia Beach. I haven't done the airbrushing, but I have been brushing on thinned glazing putty to fill seams and gaps. I use a product called Nitro-Stan instead of Bondo glazing, but Bondo will work also.
Nice to know! Yeah I was thinking it would be easy to brush on as well
I've got another option people can try as well.
I've been using Evercoat Featherfill G2 Primer for quite some time now, works in pretty much the same way. It fills layer lines, gives a well bonded hard surface that is easily sanded and takes any paint you want to use on top of it.
I used it, or similar products for many, many years for other work projects, model building, and to help fill tooling marks from fabrication on a variety of materials. I carried it's usage over to my 3D printing obsession a handful of years ago and it's all I use now.
It makes sense that the spot putty works well, since once it's thinned it works like a high build primer/filler/surfacer when sprayed onto a 3D print.
Featherfill is expensive at $125/gallon now (used to be about $75 just a year ago), but it goes a LONG way when airbrushing especially when thinned down. It does also come in quarts if you need less.
You can also buy primer filler that basically does the same thing. It's a thick primer that fills in layer lines pretty good. I have used it many times. I often spray, sand, spray & a final sand then paint.
Yes spot putty is basically just very thick lacquer primer.
The point of this though is you lose less fine detail form the filler primer piling up in small detail areas though
Resin and UV light easiest way out there.
Great idea! I use this stuff already along with rapid build primer to smooth my sla prints and turn them into mould masters for casting, but I never thought of spraying it. The bondo spotting putty is so "dusty/dry" when sanding, it's really nice to work with. I've tried other solutions but most of them are "gummy" when you try to sand them. Great video!
I am very happy to see this highlighted. Darkwing Dad is extremely talented and knoweldgable in finishing. He has some insane builds on his channel..
I believe it was recommended to use a gravity fed airbrush for this process. You used a siphon airbrush. I wonder how different the results were between both types.
🤷♂️ for $10 I’m super happy with that cheapo brush and it’s results. 10/10 would buy again
Honestly I seen no difference in using the gravity. They definitely make ones with larger reservoirs vs siphon receptacles but you don’t want to go crazy with large amounts of acetone. Small amounts of acetone especially when exposed to UV light are extremely volatile & less dangerous. So on a safety scale anything around 35ml or less is better.
@@UncleJessy sadly, it looks like Harbor Freight discontinued that airbrush. At least I don't see it on their website.
Ex autobody guy here. Don't use single stage solvent based fillers. They will continue to off-gas and the material will shrink over time. Your print lines can return weeks or months later and ruin your otherwise perfect topcoat. It's not much different than shrinking joint compound when refinishing and painting a wall.
What's a good filler in your opinion?
what do you suggest?
Do you have an alternative recommendation? Thanks!
Sooo.. don't use this but you're not going to say what to do instead?
I think what he’s saying is to use regular 2 part bondo, but the thing is that all fillers tend to shrink over time to varying degrees. But I think your applying this in such thin amounts the shrinkage will be negligible.
One thing I would do if using this process, which is what I do when using glazing compound already, is wait a day before you primer it so that it off gasses plenty before you seal it in. May not matter when you consider the tiny amount on there but I’ve not had any issues so far of layer lines showing up later, at least not yet.
@unclejesey. I like this idea. It reminds me of how I use to smooth old plaster walls with heavy textures. I am a drywall taper of 26 years. I specialized in restoration of vintage homes. We would trowel on the first 2 coats then spay thin mud on to fill pin holes and the like. But we did not sand the first 2 coats, we would scrape the high spots. So this raises the question of why you don't use scrapers at the start to knock down the high ridges of layer lines. I believe that it would greatly reduce the filling and sanding. Cabinet makers have been doing this for centuries. It reduces the risk of making the harder wood grain to ridge up. A set of cabinet scrapers are cheap. I don't 3d print, yet. So it would be a interesting idea to try out for a video as a finishing video related to this video. 🤔
Keep up with your awesome work. You are definitely the resin printer king 🤴 👏. Cheers for now from Calgary Alberta Canada 🇨🇦 👍 😀 👏
Having a set of scrapers should be in everyone’s toolbox that is 3D printing however it’s not always neccisary to scrape your parts. The idea here is to speed up the process. This method coupled with filler primer goes a long way in speeding up and reducing sanding time.
3D printing is already slow if you have a Cartesian printer at 60-80 mm per second, a bit faster if you have a flsun super racer 200 mm per second and ever faster still if you have a Bambu labs x1 carbon 300-500 mm per second, but even then many of these parts eat a lot of time just printing, then more time tediously sanding.
With intricate detailed models, like the interior of the mask he used, it’s almost impossible to sand. Sand blasting with walnut media will reduce detail more then the method used in this video. Like with all things 3D printed it’s a trade off. Certainly another tool for the toolbox, but not for every build.
Nail polish remover or 90% proof IPA has also been highly recommended for thinning spot putty, for working materials less harsh than acetone.
Respirator mask is still mandatory in a well ventilated area, make sure the filters are rated for chemical fumes & not just dust.
This is really a brilliant idea. Spot putty has been a savior for me for years.
I have also heard that in some circles that people are using this technique and then during the sanding process they’re using an abrasive cabinet. Using a fine granite silica to lightly sand blast the parts.
Awesome video! Since you already have the compressor setup, a good way to sand the backside might be to use a sandblaster or other abrasive media like walnut shells. Harbor Freight sells a chamber for this to recycle the media, but you can also do it open air if you don’t mind losing the abrasive after using it once. I have been wanting to try it, but have not yet been able to make the space in my house! Might be a great way to get consistent sanding quickly and to smooth out high detail areas!
As usual, your video’s are awesome. Thank you! Personally, what I do is Elmer’s Wood Filler - water it down then paint it on the model. Wait for it to dry, then sand back. Layer lines disappear. For a piece that’s glued to another piece - Elmer’s Wood Filler (not watered down) applied to the gap - again, sand down, and the gap disappears (as long as you apply it properly). Thank you again for your awesomeness.
Woodfiiller (waterbased) mixing with water also works. And it makes your airbrush cleanable
Coming from an ex-body man, that putty is virtually a thick primer. Although acetone will work, lacquer thinner would probably work better. The problem with this method is the material (putty/primer) will shrink over time, which eventually all the lines and flaws you are trying to cover will start to show through six months to a year later. To eliminate this altogether, I would recommend a catalyzed primer from an automotive paint supplier, which is typically a two-part mix. It might get a little pricey just to forewarn you, but it will probably sand much better than Bondo and give better results. JMO.
Question I found on a review for the Saturn... I'm researching and have come across your videos so I'm just asking you. Is it really necessary to buy all of this to use the Saturn S???? (the following is from the review) "Here are the items you should buy with it:- Curing & washing machine- Lots of resin (recommend water washable unless you know a plumber)- Gallons of 99% alcohol- Chemical gloves (reusable)- Spray bottles- UV protective glasses- UV flashlights / lights- Lunch trays- Slap mats for spills- A cover if you do curing next to printer- Tons of shop paper towels (not regular)- FEP replacement film- Good tweezers for remove supports- A respirator for VOCs- Good hobby knife set- Bulk paint brushes and Qtips for connecting parts- Bamboo toothbrushes for cleaning before curing- Small jars for resin painting / gluing- PTFE if you have bad FEP film- Screen protector for LCD- Extra build plates to keep printing while you clean prints- Extra resin trays for quick swapping- Funnels- Funnel paint filters for failed print resin- Adhesive handles for handling the shell carefully- Magnetic removal plates are a must (measure you build plate before ordering)- Good blow dryer- Digital calipers- USB extension cable- Ventahood or air purifier for VOC and alcohol fumes (your whole house will smell like alcohol and rubber)- Solid level surface- Climate controlled area- Sink with drain filter to catch support debris- Bright non-fluorescent lighting- A powerful computer (or patience to the moon) for splicing software- Possibly the premium versions of CAD and splicing software."
This is a great idea.
I'm in the process of trying out resin as a filler. So far it's working pretty good.
I will have to give this a shot next.
I appreciate your take on this method and construction of the video. Firstly that you cover safety, PPE, and realistic cost.
Second that you actually titled the video appropriately and didn’t allude to some new and better method. It’s just you. Spraying some bondo.
With that, I feel like this is literally just a can of spraypaint filler primer with WAY more steps lol 😂 that you still have to sand down anyway.
It’s the dry time of 5 minutes or less that makes this superior and the control around areas of detail you don’t want to lose
That spot putty is my go to filler and I have thinned it with acetone before - it makes it easier to get in to tight areas that you couldn't get if you were spreading it - but I never though about spraying it. Might have to get a cheap airbrush and give that a try!
This is great for larger pieces, will definitely be using this method for my Bo shoulder, but for the mythosaur insignia, UV resin is where its at.
Also make sure you cover your normal spectacles while spraying the acetone as it will damage the polycarbonate lenses in short order
they should tell us that at work🤨
@@J0SHUAKANE I accidentally dropped my glasses in a vat full of acetone once and the lenses shrunk to the size of quarters in like two seconds.
I've been tempted to run this stuff through my airbrush, especially when working with highly detailed objects. Good to see that it actually works. I may have to get a second airbrush for this purpose.
ill have to test it out but this might be my new favorite method for finishing masks
Thanks for interjecting about the use of Acetone and ventilation. I'll add to that, though. Be EXTREMELY careful when using fans for ventilation. Acetone WILL EAT the plastic coating on wiring. We had a garage explosion here in KC a few years ago that set fire to the house. Even though the guy was using a gigantic floor fan for ventilation, the fan shorted and vapor/particulates in the garage space blew up, according to the report from the fire department.
Just be aware and be careful.
That is solid info right there. Honestly if I couldn’t have done this outside there is no way I would have done it. Plus the respirator
@@UncleJessy Dude, you do great stuff. I'm the son of a fireman and I've built plenty of DIY spray booths myself.
As long as people understand how over-spraying works, what they are spraying, and how flammable particulates are common sense goes a LONG way.
The explosion was not far from my house and on a busy street, when it happened there were lots of questions as to what caused the explosion.
The same goes for woodworking dust collection. Sawdust generates a lot of static electricity so collectors and their ducts get grounded with copper wire.
Keep cranking out the good stuff!
Great work on this one! I have avoided air brushes but man.. may need to give it a shot!
I wonder if Bondo would ever make essentially that’s a much thinner product still the glazing spot putty look like thinner to go through airbrushes for 3-D printing or other applications I’m sure there are other applications where that would be helpful but Bondo is used so heavily in the 3-D printing community that we are definitely maybe not a target demographic but definitely a sizable amount of their demographic I think a lot of people would purchase that for this purpose it’s a lot less messy if you’re not having to mix it if you don’t have to mix it then as long as you’re careful the only thing you have to clean up is the airbrush
Haha I go into my auto shop buying all sorts of stuff
“What ya working on?” - oh I’m finishing a 3D printed helmet 😂🤣
It definitely helped and worked... I think you got better results than typical because of the surface finish silk pla tends to have.
I'm not sure the results are worth aerosolizing the stuff, plus all the mess.
But it does work...interestingly.
Cool option if I didn't have any filler primer paint handy. Bit surprised you didn't make mention about using acetone with some filaments (i.e., ABS).
Please be aware that acetone in combination with air will build up an explosive gas. Lower explosion limit 3vol% and upper explosion limit 13 vol%... nice vid thx
What was the airbrush cleanup like? Is this a viable method for multiple prints?
Jessy, you should wet sand that surface after hitting it with spot putty!
if you do that and work up to super fine grits, you can get CRAZY good finishes.
Agreed! Just wanted to show what this could do with low effort/time
I wonder how much smoothing was from the acetone alone. Have you tried just spraying the acetone?
Duplicolor's filler primer takes about an hour or two, but sanding it can be a real pain because some of the material tends to stay in the sand paper and clogs it up; does that happen with this method as well? (I do use spot putty to fill gaps and see it doesn't, but I haven't covered large areas)
Yeah I see that as well with primer/filler this def clogs up the sandpaper but no where near as much as when I use the primer/filler
@@UncleJessy cool, some time I'm going to try it, as I have a big tube of green spot putty from 3M which I'm pretty sure It will last a LONG time if using it just to plug holes
Hmm, would it be possible to see this compared to just using filler primer? I get you might have a little more control with the finer spray but it just seems like your diying something you might be able to just get in a can. :) Thanks for the video, always very informative!
Yeah 100% similar results to just using primer filler. Just another option that’s out there
I am going to have to try this with the green 3M spot putty.
Have you also tried spray filler-primer to compare to this? It might be very similar, but has no setup work since you just buy the can.
the quick change harbor freight airbrush is the only airbrush that you can change colors without cleaning it. i think, for that reason alone, it is the best airbrush🤷♂️
That might be one of the best $10 purchases from harbor freight I’ve had in a long time
I believe it was actually Ben Eadie that came up with the idea of thinning spot putty with acetone that darkwing dad then took to the next level and sprayed through an airbrush
2:40 You should *NOT* be touching 3D Gloop with your bare fingers! That stuff is real bad for you.
Haha yeah was peeling it off my finger for the next 30 mins after touching it
That shit is a carcinogen. You should treat it like it worse than acetone... because it is.
wonder if you could use a Preval spray system..
Always love your videos, thanks for sharing.
Do you have the link for the adaptor on thingyverse or the description please?
hmmm I'm going to have to look into a primer/filler that I can put through my Iwata... I wonder how well it will fill with just paint? I have yet to paint any of my 3D prints but would like to airbrush them...
Nice bit of information! Airbrush question: I've never owned one and would love to get into using one for painting. The harber freight shop near me doesn't have them airbrush kits and to be fair I'm not sure I'd want to start with something that don't come with its own air compressor as I don't feel comfortable enough to run my normal one for my resin pressure pot as it's calibrated for well... my pressure pot and I really don't want to mess with that setup. What would be a good brand that youed recommend for a beginner that does comes with everything needed?
Cool!
My tears and wet sanding with them seems to be the way I smooth mine out the most.
This is fantastic, but my concern is that acetone will eat the rubber seals in your airbrush. Has that been your experience?
Are there any other solvents that would work that are rubber safe?
I’ve been looking for a better way to apply bondo! This is a method I have to try out!
What did you use to clean the airbrush afterwards?
what nozzle was this iron month printed on? This is an excellent video. I wonder if you don't use this often what other option you actually fall back to
Thank u for sharing, what did u use to clean the airbrush ?
How about painting it with a cheap brush would that work to? if it does it would reduce the cleaning up time.
I've heard of this trick on Facebook but it sounded like a bad idea since acetone usually removes paint but if it works alright then
Yeah I would imagine doing that on something finished would strip it of paint
Awesome! I still need to get an airbrush anyway, but I could see this being great if you had a large project with lots of pieces.
was it as easy to clean the airbrush as with paint? basically how healthy is the airbrush now.
What plastics are you using to mix it with? I know acetone will melt a lot of plastics if you choose the wrong plastic. I learn that the hard way with a Dixie cup. Lol
have you tried a metal card scraper instead of sand paper. I find it works really well on flat surfaces
I wonder if I could use this method with the 3M AcryliGreen spot putty... Looks freaking awesome to do
It’ll work, acrylgreen is just pricey!
Where is the 3d goop/gloop info? Don't remember seeing that before
This is amazing I thought the thumbnail was clickbait!
😂🤣🤘
Simple question. Doesn't water work for making bondo more useful? Would at least eliminate one toxic element.
Have you tried a larger harbor freight 20oz gravity feed paint sprayer yet? I was curious if that would be a quicker way to spray your prints. Especially larger prints or multiple prints at a time. Might also be to much spray volume.
Hey, Jessy - Do you think you could apply that bondo-acetone mix with a disposable hand brush? I'm planning to make a 1/6 scale chevelle and could use this method for cleaning the joints of glued-together pieces.
Have you tried Snapmaker series? Would like to know if that’s good or something
I'll stick to just using a cheap throw away brush and paint on. No worrying of the air brush glogging and less clean up.
Wonder if you could use the thinned out spot putty with a brush?
GREAT hack!!! Thank you!!!
Where did you find mixing cups that you can safely use acetone in?
is there a way to use a safer material than acetone like water or alcohol?
Just buy a can of primer with filler in it. Rust Oleum makes it in a rattle can. Spray it over your prints and then paint them or lightly sand them prior, its up to you.
id be curious to see how this goes up against some filler primer
I would imagine they are pretty similar results. One bonus of the bondo is that it seems to dry really fast compared to the primer filler which can take a while
How do you strengthen brittle resin prints? Thanks R
Hey Jessy, Hi5's from Buffalo!! Love the vid, gonna be trying this out on my 3d printed SW thermal Detenator. Thanks for this tip.
what about using "spray putty (motip)" in a spray can? no cleaning and no mixing.....
While it's a very interesting idea, I'm just so hesitant to do this because of the potential damage to air brushes + the toxicity of acetone. Just seems like the cons outweigh the pros here. But I appreciate your video on the subject, I certainly list you as the expert when it comes to 3D print stuff.
Yeah, A LOT of cons on this one. For sure won’t be doing it with every project but maybe for some of my larger print projects
Acrylic putty/plastic putty is water soluble, so it might make sense to try thinning that with water for this.
FANTASTIC FANTASTIC FANTASTIC, did I mention FANTASTIC.
I've been recommending something similar to this for years. Using Tamiya paste instead. I guess Bondo would probably be cheaper and larger quantities.
Hi uncle Jessy, love your channel and your guides are alway helpful.
I’m in the uk and bondo is harder to come by. Can you make any other suggestions to use as a filler (dosent have to be sprayed)?
Well I’m about to try this method with my Mando jetpack I just finished printing
I speak from experience: don't underestimate Thinner. Always use a respirator and do it outside.
How was the cleanup of the airbrush? I know you said you bought the cheap airbrush so you didn't care if it clogged, but were you able to clean it so it can be kept as your "I don't care" airbrush or is this close to a 1 project 1 airbrush project?
Takes a minute to clean up. I display it in my part 1
@@Darkwingdad how was build up on the end as you sprayed? Since it dries fast, I could imagine that being a problem.
@@tiffanysandmeier4753 I’ve tested both on siphon & gravity, it did build up a tad on the siphon but I think bc mixed it on the fly and the mix seperated a bit. Unclogging it was nothing more than fully tightening the nozzle, wiping with a qtip and than good to in seconds.
Jessie is this better then a rattle can filler primer?
This changes everything. ;)
Have you try resin in a airbrush ? I just seen video by The Creative Collector and seem to work -not trying promo another channel etc but figure if you wanted to see it , You know where to go.
I wonder how long this would last in a dropper bottle for premix
Will pour some in a jar and test it out. Wondering if it would just need to be remixed/stirred
I'm guessing you have to be working relatively quickly. Because that acetone is gonna go off quickly when not spraying.
Thankfully those bottles are small. Yeah it dries incredibly fast
I'm curious how this compares with aerosol automotive "high build" primer
Have you tried using something like Gunze Mr. Surfacer 1500, It comes in different grades like sandpaper? I found out about it recently and would love to see how it compares to this method.
How do you print the rest of the failed print?
Hi Jessy! What mic and camera do you use for recording your videos?
Does this process make the plastic impermeable?
So how different is this from that "filler primer" you can get in a rattle can? Seems like it does the same thing, but I wonder if the filler primer is better if you're printing in ABS or ASA since the print would be affected by the acetone you're using to thin the bondo...
none at all mate...we have spray putty in the UK. Pretty much the same thing lol
I'm curious how it compares to spray primer filler.
In auto body they make a high build primer that is basically the same idea.
Hi sir from uk just wondering if you could do this with resin
Can anyone let me know what the UK equivalent of this Bondo spot putty would be?
Have you ever tried airbrushing resin to smooth FDM prints?