When you print in Vase mode using a .4 nozzle bump your line width up to .6. it pushes more material and will make the walls way thicker and fill the holes. I make lots of Vase's and this works wicked.
I saw a vid a week or so back where someone was vase printing with extreme line widths. Amazingly they had good results with line widths many times the nozzle width. Like 2mm with a 0.4mm nozzle. The line width was even wider than the flat part of the nozzle. The secret seemed to be increasing the layer height to maintain a 5:2 ratio or something like that. Annoyingly I can't find the vid now or I'd post a link.
I imagine that if you could smell it when it was running, it would mean that it's a massive fire hazard. Definitely don't want to run it partially open in any way. Deadpool slowly rotating in a toxic alcohol mist is very on brand, good choice.
Just a PSA, PolySmooth(tm) is a PVB blend, if you wanna find some generic. Not all blends are created equal, but I generally encourage people to understand the polymers they are using better, and rely less on trademarks
One option: (only for prints that are basic, or mostly flat edged. (parts, tools, vases etc) If you have a hot air station, you can set the air gun temp, just above the nozzle temp, and give the edges a short blast of hot air in an equal manner. That does eliminate a lot of the layering, although you need a silicone mat, and have to do short blasts to avoid warping.
For some reason I thought you were taking about fans as in people, not fans as in spinny fluid movers the first time I read your comment XD It reeeeaaly changes the meaning
Bro when the music started i started crackin up. Badass video my bro, kudos. THanks for giving of yourself, time and your wisdom and knowledge and sharing with us, the collective conciousness ;) for inspiration. thx man, subbed
Hey man, that really helped me decide on where I stand with it. If you really love all the work into perfecting it, buffing it, etc. Sure, it's a great addition. But dude.....so much work.
I personally have experimented with PETG prints and chemical MEK smoothing, it works surprisingly well in a custom vapor chamber. Alternatively you can use Toluene but it is much weaker and milder, I suppose it has some use for very minor smoothing.
My vote is to test the strength of the stuff before and after smoothing. Maybe compare it to a popular PLA too. I know, there are 34 channels doing that type of stuff, but you have the fancy vapor elevator for this one case. The smoothing filament could be useful for more than cosmetics if the physical characteristics are different and desirable in some way over PLA. I know PETG, ABS, Nylon, and carbon blends all have some advantages but they often are only marginally better. Plus they often have significant negatives; stuff like hot end limitations, fumes, enclosures ... If this stuff is reasonably safe and easy to print it might make up 90% of the difference.
thank you, I was very curious about this smoothing method, but I was still disappointed with the results. but you have my support and subscription, keep up the good work. thanks.
I thinks it's worth trying with the lowest layer height that your machine can handle and then smoothing the print. It shouldn't have to stay in the chamber for long and it can give better results. Love the channel, cheers!
PVB (Polyvinylbutyral) I didn't know this material, commonly used in windshields. It's offerd by many companies even Prusa and all of these should work smoothing with Isopropanol. First looks seem to proof the material is quite safe ( except little hazard with sanding dust). And it should be mechanical even more stable than pla. So I'll definitely give it a try. Thanks for the video.
I can see it being great as a shell, mask the inner part, and smooth the outside facing face. You can then make the core out of cheap pla, because at 42€/kg it's a bit expensive and it also probably is not very accurate due to smoothing.
I thought I had you for the whole fan show down then come find out you have another channel. I liked the review of this new product and how each part turned out
I literally always have isopropyl alcohol. It's what I always use to clean my computers and my pipes. works great! I also keep it in a spray bottle so I wouldn't even need that fancy mist machine, just patience.
Hey there Major. You maybe want to have a look at "PVB" (in general), i guess thats what Polysmooth is, judging by their print parameters. For example Prusament PVB, which even is only 2/3rd of Polysmooths price and is somewhat transparent after smoothing. Especially when in vase mode with chunky layerheights. Anyway, there are more PVBs out there, if you want to go nuts with smoothing. :D
Anyone else get RonCo flashbacks? "You just set it and forget it!" I haven't watched tv on tv in years, sometimes I miss that campy late night stuff :P Nostalgia makes everything better I guess.
I would be curious to know what sanding down the prints with sandpaper would do, would it make it smoother? Would it make it rougher? Would it even affect it at all? I've had this question in my head for a pretty long time
You should test some other properties of the plastic. Id imagine if it dissolves with iso, it would probably dissolve with other solvents too like ethanol. Im curious if theres a strength difference too
apparently Polysmooth (and any PVB filament like the new prusament stuff) once smoothed, you're meant to just leave it for a week to gain the full strength and not tacky-ness
Nebulizing 99% IPA into a small space like that seems like an explosion waiting to happen. Did the manual say anything about the fuel:air ratio being too low/high to be flammable, or did they ignore this?
The timer is to be set according to how much smoothing you want, not for how big the model is. Finer layers needs less time. 20 minutes cooking will give you equal smoothing, no matter the size of the print.
Probably want a resin for that, otherwise you'll want to slice the models in half for some of them just so you don't have a bunch of supports to trim. You can do that pretty easy though, have fun!
You should give eSun ABS+ a shot, still need an enclosure for good results, but low warp and low smell. Also, all my vase-mode prints hold water, layer width of 2x nozzle diameter for the win!
That is some interesting material. I agree with you about the issues with ABS, I try to avoid it because of the fumes. I do notice on the Benchy and Octopus models you had some layer line misalignment. I've been running into a lot of that myself lately. Do you have any advice on dealing with that?
Youve probably figured out layer lines by now but i believe what i did was make the wall and top lines thicker. I forgot some of the other settings but now it doesnt have layer lines but the edges are almost balled now to the point that theres almost a seam on each corner
At 11:30 you said " I don't think you actually have to..." regarding using the polysher, but then you lose that train of thought. Since the polysher is currently unavailable on amazon, I'm wondering what you would suggest as an alternative method for smoothing the polysmooth prints. Thanks!
I wonder if you could just paint on the ipa and forgo the chamber altogether... Maybe you could touch up deadpool's head, or other areas that didn't get quite smoothed enough. That also makes me wonder if you can completely dissolve this filament in ipa and use it like you would with PLA for lost casting? IPA would certainly be easier to drive off than PLA.
I've had amazing results with acetone smoothing by doing multiple short passes and letting them dry for a few minutes in between. Curious to see if the polysher would have the same effect.
Agreed, multiple short cycles prevent the solvent penetrating the surface too deeply. Should work just the same with this, though doing this manually on this rather gimmicky machine looks like it would be a pain. It's something the manufacturers should consider though, along with getting rid of the silly rising platform.
great video. i guess any house umidifier can be filled with alchool, and you could add vibrator to the spin table to avoid joint to get solded... i guess
I like how the start of the show started off Having, "Not ABS" written. I don't have ABS either, which has my doctor telling me that I need to lose weight. Lol
For better effect you need to rotate the part inside. One side up, another side up and then it turns inside the machine, then it will be even better. 20 min total - 4 sides 5 min each
I wonder if the smoothed octopus would retain proper movement if it moves while drying. Since there is a rotating platform, all you need is a stand and to tilt the whole setup. Then the rotation would keep legs moving during smoothing, but I think you want rotation to continue as the ipa evaporates.
So, since we're talking about post-processable plastics, although it might not be really useful for the fans you're printing on here, have you seen the volcano pla from form futura? A bit more constraining in terms of setup, because you basically need to have your printer installed next to an oven, but plastic you can anneal? Needs to do some more tests on it, but sign me up!
I pretty much only use polyterra for my bulk filament because of the cardboard spool. I have to use a few other for different colors, but it's my main pla now.
I got a 3d crested gecko print that's articulated but It's very scrappy, the thing is not smooth. Also I need help knowing how to paint it and how to smooth it down without getting rid of the natural bumps it has that is included in the model
I'd just like to request if you'd be willing to print a fan and see how long it would last in use, like for days or weeks probably. I just wanna make sure I don't make a cooling system that ultimately explodes or shatters eventually.
I'd love to see polysmooth tested without a polisher and what would be the best technique. I used to successfully polish ABS prints in a box with walls lined with paper towels soaked in acetone..
Very interesting. Maybe have a bit of a "Vase" show down? Try printing 4 different vases, smoothing them out, and seeing if any of them will hold water. Or, re-visit the leader board for the fan show down, and print the top 5 to see if this method of smoothing has any different affects on the fan's performance. (Honestly, probably negligible, but an idea none the less)
Have you ever made a replacement shell for a Nintendo N64 console? or anything like that? I am looking for a project to reshell my old N64 and I have a FLSUN QQ-S Pro printer. I would like to see how something that has flat surfaces smooths out without having to sand and fill and paint.
When you print in Vase mode using a .4 nozzle bump your line width up to .6. it pushes more material and will make the walls way thicker and fill the holes. I make lots of Vase's and this works wicked.
or increase your flow rate by a small percentage to manage the material rate more precisely
One of the first prints I did was a vase - pushed the flow to 120% and it came out perfect and watertight
I saw a vid a week or so back where someone was vase printing with extreme line widths. Amazingly they had good results with line widths many times the nozzle width. Like 2mm with a 0.4mm nozzle. The line width was even wider than the flat part of the nozzle. The secret seemed to be increasing the layer height to maintain a 5:2 ratio or something like that. Annoyingly I can't find the vid now or I'd post a link.
Found it... ruclips.net/video/0DAP5Zm1jvk/видео.html
.8 nozzles just make it so much stronger, that's what I'd suggest.
I imagine that if you could smell it when it was running, it would mean that it's a massive fire hazard. Definitely don't want to run it partially open in any way. Deadpool slowly rotating in a toxic alcohol mist is very on brand, good choice.
Atomized flame thrower 🤔
You can smell ipa way below flammable limits
Just a PSA, PolySmooth(tm) is a PVB blend, if you wanna find some generic. Not all blends are created equal, but I generally encourage people to understand the polymers they are using better, and rely less on trademarks
Whatcha talkin' 'bout Willis!? It's a LEAR jet! 🤣
absolute lifesaver, thank you lmao
That holely vase must have been designed by the Corsair waterblock team.
One option: (only for prints that are basic, or mostly flat edged. (parts, tools, vases etc) If you have a hot air station, you can set the air gun temp, just above the nozzle temp, and give the edges a short blast of hot air in an equal manner. That does eliminate a lot of the layering, although you need a silicone mat, and have to do short blasts to avoid warping.
You have some fans that were really silent, I'd like to see if they could become even more silent smoothed
For some reason I thought you were taking about fans as in people, not fans as in spinny fluid movers the first time I read your comment XD It reeeeaaly changes the meaning
Same bro
I don't know, I like my fans loud and cheery
@@beeallen2743 Me too, It took some time before I got that thought off my mind 🤪😂
I was thinking the same thing. Some of the silent fan blades would this make them even more silent and would make them work better?
Thank you major hardware. We love you 💖
if you have the time for it, could you scale down the picard model and smooth it? just to see how smooth you can make his head xD
Bro when the music started i started crackin up. Badass video my bro, kudos. THanks for giving of yourself, time and your wisdom and knowledge and sharing with us, the collective conciousness ;) for inspiration.
thx man, subbed
Hey man, that really helped me decide on where I stand with it. If you really love all the work into perfecting it, buffing it, etc. Sure, it's a great addition. But dude.....so much work.
Love getting a Major Hardware video notification. 🎖
I hear subscribing gives you +10 to your tech skill.
Polymaker is my go-to filament. I've never had problems with anything of theirs I've used. Thanks for the video!
I personally have experimented with PETG prints and chemical MEK smoothing, it works surprisingly well in a custom vapor chamber. Alternatively you can use Toluene but it is much weaker and milder, I suppose it has some use for very minor smoothing.
What does the elevator do? Does it helps the smoothing? No it brings the price higher😂😂😂
My vote is to test the strength of the stuff before and after smoothing. Maybe compare it to a popular PLA too. I know, there are 34 channels doing that type of stuff, but you have the fancy vapor elevator for this one case. The smoothing filament could be useful for more than cosmetics if the physical characteristics are different and desirable in some way over PLA. I know PETG, ABS, Nylon, and carbon blends all have some advantages but they often are only marginally better. Plus they often have significant negatives; stuff like hot end limitations, fumes, enclosures ... If this stuff is reasonably safe and easy to print it might make up 90% of the difference.
Thank you very much for demonstrating the process ✅👍
Nice video man!
this is a very good video, great job!
Question: How sensitive are the pieces to a manual smoothing? Could you do a better job with an alcohol swab?
thank you, I was very curious about this smoothing method, but I was still disappointed with the results. but you have my support and subscription, keep up the good work. thanks.
Man you got some awesome presentation skills.
He can sell ice to penguin.
Deadpool spinning to the montage music was so perfect, It would make Ryan Reynolds proud!
Lol the Prusche 🤣 haven’t heard that one before but I love it
Subscribed just because of your bad ass walleye Hoodie OUR FISH OUR FIGHT!
Can't wait for the flsun sr review.
I thinks it's worth trying with the lowest layer height that your machine can handle and then smoothing the print. It shouldn't have to stay in the chamber for long and it can give better results.
Love the channel, cheers!
That allen key set is GOAT.
lol my nozzle on my new to me printer jammed on me on the first print, so now I;m watching your videos while waiting on spares and cleaning supplies.
There is something cool about the music you chose and Deadpool spinning around. Great job and keep it coming.
Good ole Synthwave. If you like that type of music and you're a gamer, give Katana Zero a try.
Ĺ⁰l
The piece is called Alienated - ELFL. Really cool B-roll shot from the machine.
Cool concept, smoothing miniature models and stuff like that would probably make it worth the money.
PVB (Polyvinylbutyral) I didn't know this material, commonly used in windshields.
It's offerd by many companies even Prusa and all of these should work smoothing with Isopropanol.
First looks seem to proof the material is quite safe ( except little hazard with sanding dust).
And it should be mechanical even more stable than pla. So I'll definitely give it a try. Thanks for the video.
I can see it being great as a shell, mask the inner part, and smooth the outside facing face. You can then make the core out of cheap pla, because at 42€/kg it's a bit expensive and it also probably is not very accurate due to smoothing.
I thought I had you for the whole fan show down then come find out you have another channel. I liked the review of this new product and how each part turned out
He has another channel?:o
vaporsmoothing with vaporwave tune nice one
I literally always have isopropyl alcohol. It's what I always use to clean my computers and my pipes. works great! I also keep it in a spray bottle so I wouldn't even need that fancy mist machine, just patience.
Must hurt
@@tsayon13 hurt what?
@@tsayon13 all it hurts is the resin build up
@@donaldhobson9027 Cleaning his "pipes" with alcohol.
I have 5 liters of the stuff myself.
Hey there Major. You maybe want to have a look at "PVB" (in general), i guess thats what Polysmooth is, judging by their print parameters. For example Prusament PVB, which even is only 2/3rd of Polysmooths price and is somewhat transparent after smoothing. Especially when in vase mode with chunky layerheights.
Anyway, there are more PVBs out there, if you want to go nuts with smoothing. :D
Anyone else get RonCo flashbacks? "You just set it and forget it!"
I haven't watched tv on tv in years, sometimes I miss that campy late night stuff :P
Nostalgia makes everything better I guess.
I would be curious to know what sanding down the prints with sandpaper would do, would it make it smoother? Would it make it rougher? Would it even affect it at all? I've had this question in my head for a pretty long time
This is why I love printing with PETG. It's the best of both worlds of ABS and PLA.
You should test some other properties of the plastic. Id imagine if it dissolves with iso, it would probably dissolve with other solvents too like ethanol. Im curious if theres a strength difference too
Should have done a new Picard bust for the table. ;)
Wow can't wait to see how this affects air resistance an outher factors of a 3d printed fan 👍👌
apparently Polysmooth (and any PVB filament like the new prusament stuff) once smoothed, you're meant to just leave it for a week to gain the full strength and not tacky-ness
that applies to any vapor smoothing, abs needs to dry veery long before it loses the gummyness
Do you think it can be cured in less time if put in a UV curing machine or nope ?
ABS - "If you think about an ice cube it falls off the build plate" xD
I like this guy
dice!!! or masters for dice resin casting
Dude I am looking for ways to matte up my prints and you smooth them 😂
Nebulizing 99% IPA into a small space like that seems like an explosion waiting to happen. Did the manual say anything about the fuel:air ratio being too low/high to be flammable, or did they ignore this?
The print in place items I would move it around a couple of times during the sauna.
I need that Captain Picard facepalm file ASAP.
Nebulize IPA in what I can only assume is a small bomb machine. What's the fire hazard on that thing?
The timer is to be set according to how much smoothing you want, not for how big the model is. Finer layers needs less time. 20 minutes cooking will give you equal smoothing, no matter the size of the print.
I never had a 3D printer but I’m so really want one right now just to print Deadpool
I love that you have the Picard ❤ just ordered my first 3d printer with the intentions of making every Star Trek starship
Probably want a resin for that, otherwise you'll want to slice the models in half for some of them just so you don't have a bunch of supports to trim. You can do that pretty easy though, have fun!
You should give eSun ABS+ a shot, still need an enclosure for good results, but low warp and low smell.
Also, all my vase-mode prints hold water, layer width of 2x nozzle diameter for the win!
I want that octopus... so cute....
That is some interesting material. I agree with you about the issues with ABS, I try to avoid it because of the fumes.
I do notice on the Benchy and Octopus models you had some layer line misalignment. I've been running into a lot of that myself lately. Do you have any advice on dealing with that?
Youve probably figured out layer lines by now but i believe what i did was make the wall and top lines thicker. I forgot some of the other settings but now it doesnt have layer lines but the edges are almost balled now to the point that theres almost a seam on each corner
That mint is such a good color but overall they have some good colors.
At 11:30 you said " I don't think you actually have to..." regarding using the polysher, but then you lose that train of thought. Since the polysher is currently unavailable on amazon, I'm wondering what you would suggest as an alternative method for smoothing the polysmooth prints. Thanks!
Can you please try printing the FGC9-mkII?
I wonder if you could just paint on the ipa and forgo the chamber altogether... Maybe you could touch up deadpool's head, or other areas that didn't get quite smoothed enough.
That also makes me wonder if you can completely dissolve this filament in ipa and use it like you would with PLA for lost casting? IPA would certainly be easier to drive off than PLA.
I've had amazing results with acetone smoothing by doing multiple short passes and letting them dry for a few minutes in between. Curious to see if the polysher would have the same effect.
Agreed, multiple short cycles prevent the solvent penetrating the surface too deeply. Should work just the same with this, though doing this manually on this rather gimmicky machine looks like it would be a pain. It's something the manufacturers should consider though, along with getting rid of the silly rising platform.
U mean with a brush?
Would brushing IPA on it work, or should I only spray?
great video. i guess any house umidifier can be filled with alchool, and you could add vibrator to the spin table to avoid joint to get solded... i guess
Have you tried smoothing with brushing on resin and then curing it in UV light? I love Poly terra matte pla
Go Walleye! Hit somebody!!
Any chance you could share where you got the file for the Deadpool bust? Would love to print one for myself!!!
I like how the start of the show started off Having, "Not ABS" written. I don't have ABS either, which has my doctor telling me that I need to lose weight. Lol
Can we get a variant of that steamship that everyone creates but with a iconic mouse figure on it?
Maybe some fan designs would look cool overcooked like the biohazard or some blade design meant to look like slime.
Can you still do the old paper towel and tin foil technique you do for ABS with this stuff?
For better effect you need to rotate the part inside. One side up, another side up and then it turns inside the machine, then it will be even better. 20 min total - 4 sides 5 min each
Two possible alternatives to the vapour machine (1) dip print into IPA for 25-30 mins (2) use a spray bottle .
I wonder if the smoothed octopus would retain proper movement if it moves while drying. Since there is a rotating platform, all you need is a stand and to tilt the whole setup. Then the rotation would keep legs moving during smoothing, but I think you want rotation to continue as the ipa evaporates.
So, since we're talking about post-processable plastics, although it might not be really useful for the fans you're printing on here, have you seen the volcano pla from form futura? A bit more constraining in terms of setup, because you basically need to have your printer installed next to an oven, but plastic you can anneal? Needs to do some more tests on it, but sign me up!
Love the vids!!! Side note...the link you supply for the FLSUN SR goes to a QQ-S on Amazon...not a Super Racer!
Walleye hoody, are you from toledo? Like your videos btw
This alcohol thing would be awesome for cleaning my dab rig if it got nice and warm.
I pretty much only use polyterra for my bulk filament because of the cardboard spool. I have to use a few other for different colors, but it's my main pla now.
What printer did you use to print out the models ?
Lmao I came here with my roctopus and once I saw the normal octopus title I knew this was the video
That bust totally missed the opportunity to make the base Deadpool’s guts.
smoothing your things
What could you smooth else?
The inside of the cooling stuff?
What does this IPA work on regular PLA?
Have you tried a spray bottle to smooth?
Love seeing 25 seconds ago on the upload
will making the best fan you printed smooth make it perform better?
few questions : Can you dip in ipa ? can you prime and spray paint ?
I got a 3d crested gecko print that's articulated but It's very scrappy, the thing is not smooth. Also I need help knowing how to paint it and how to smooth it down without getting rid of the natural bumps it has that is included in the model
I'd just like to request if you'd be willing to print a fan and see how long it would last in use, like for days or weeks probably. I just wanna make sure I don't make a cooling system that ultimately explodes or shatters eventually.
I'd love to see polysmooth tested without a polisher and what would be the best technique. I used to successfully polish ABS prints in a box with walls lined with paper towels soaked in acetone..
Very interesting. Maybe have a bit of a "Vase" show down? Try printing 4 different vases, smoothing them out, and seeing if any of them will hold water. Or, re-visit the leader board for the fan show down, and print the top 5 to see if this method of smoothing has any different affects on the fan's performance. (Honestly, probably negligible, but an idea none the less)
Great video you should check out honey badger 3d print and paint as well
I wonder if it would be safe to use a 5-gallon bucket and a small essential oil defuser?
What is that metallic red filament you have of Picard?
would a fan or two insisde the smoothing device help distribute the vapor mor evenly?
It can be usted with just a towel with isopropilic alcohol or is needed the machine?
Smooth some fans that were loud before and see if they are loud after smoothing?
You can print waterproof stuff on a prusamk3, just need to have the extrusion amount and overlap increased a little
Have you ever made a replacement shell for a Nintendo N64 console? or anything like that? I am looking for a project to reshell my old N64 and I have a FLSUN QQ-S Pro printer. I would like to see how something that has flat surfaces smooths out without having to sand and fill and paint.
Try the octopuss upside down! I think that would be awesome!
I'd like to see how well masking with electrical tape or painter's tape works.