57 year old woman , somewhat mechanically inclined , husband out of town ... Was able to replace the transmission belt thanks to this video !! 😄 Thank you for taking the time to make it!
Sir, I owe you a big thank you. I worked on getting that clutch off for hours. Several four letter words were spewing from my mouth and then I found your video. The rope in the spark plug hole was genius! I watch several other videos prior and none could help me get it off.
take off 4 bolts easy from underneath and the engine comes right ff and dont need to--just slide it back to take old belt off an dput new on. (if the pully gets stuck on)
Thanks for the info! My drive belt on my CCSLTX1050 broke yesterday. I am not mechanically inclined, but knew that if I took it in somewhere, it would probably be a couple months getting it back. The CC manual said don't mess with it, but I atched a few RUclips videos last night, and yours was by far the most helpful. I started on the project this morning at 10:30 and was up and running by 2:30. Thanks again! ☝️😎👌
You Da Man! So glad to help out. Thanks for watching. I have other CC videos on my channel ( do you know where your fuse is?) lol. I have to admit after 14 years my CC is with a new family. Funny story, as I was driving to his trailer to load it the drive belt broke. It took as an hour to wench it aboard. I replaced it with this. ruclips.net/video/OLlsTFI2bWs/видео.html
@pittsburghpap... I spent nearly 4 hours fighting to remove the main clutch assembly, watching NUMEROUS RUclips videos and had no luck until I found yours... The rope trick was the ticket!!! I was ready to push my LGTX1050 over the back hill and buy a couple goats! Thanks for a tip I will make sure I pass on to friends who deal with the same issue!!
Another tip I picked up for the front pulley is to take out the four bolts for the engine to get the clearance you need to get the belt out and back on and put the bolts back on for the engine.
@@mark8850 Just bend the tabs at bottom. It go right in. And also its its best to take 4 screws out on top and hold the big nut so it want turn instead of removing plug an sticking something in the engine
I guess I was running on borrowed time my drive belt lasted 257 hrs and after getting the deck off for the umpteenth time I found that my belt tensioner spring bit the dust as well as the belt. My PTO slid right off but my unit doesn't have the hole in the deck to get a large driver in to smack the upper pulley. I do thank you for posting this video. I found that if you take the flywheel cover off and use a 12" crescent wrench on the large nut and use a socket wrench on the bottom bolt you don't have to stuff clothes line in a cylinder it's a bunch easier!
To loose & tighten clutch bolt I use a big pair of channel locks on upper pulley shaft. Works fine for me. 3rd belt I've put on my 2007 Slt1550. Last belt from Amazon lasted one season and stretched.Thought I had a rod knock when I heard that tapping sound.
Thanks for the video, appreciate you taking the time to film and put it out there. Hanging the clutch to avoid disconnecting the wire was a good tip. I used a pair of ramps to lift the front wheels, gave me just enough clearance to pull the bolt out and drop that clutch. I did pay $40 for a Harbor Freight 1/2" impact gun, another $10 for sockets, and it was well worth the money. Also nice for the bolts that hold the blades on when you're going to sharpen or change those, avoids having to stick a wooden block in there to prevent spinning while you remove the bolts.
Found the problem< the rope had twisted into a small knot and wouldn't come out of the hole. Pushed it back in a little and wiggled a bit & came right out. Thanks again for the help.
+Kevin Crummie Thank you Kevin. We are trying hard to heal, but it is really slow going. The Pirates are off to a great start, the Penguins are headed for the playoffs so we have plenty of diversions!
Thank you for the video, probably would’ve taken it to the shop without it. I did end up having to unbolt the engine to get the belt around the pulley, due to the fact that it was rust welded to the shaft. Great video! Thanks again 👍
I here ya about that rust, that is what I had the first time also. It should not be that hard!! Thanks for watching. Lots more Cub Cadet vids on my channel.
Pittsburgh Pap about the rust!! I agree. Just glad I didn’t take it to the shop. My local Howard Bros got me for $187 to change out the belt on my cub cadet walk behind, I got 2 cuts before it shredded off. I took it back and they told me that my deck was warped, but they would gladly replace it for $586.00 I say again, thanks for helping do the work myself.
pull front of tractor up off ground until it stands on back wheels. I attach mine to my shed with rope front and back to keep it from falling. great access, fairly safe.
Unconscious mechanic fantastic that was an awesome video ! Why would anybody give you a thumbs down .I've always Been considered a fairly decent mechanic , and I certainly enjoyed your knowledgeable video I'm sure so have a great day buddy . Thanks
@ 18:59 in your video, you can see the V idler pulley is shiny in the bottom. That tells me the pulley is junk and the belt will be riding on the inside edge, instead of riding on the V sides of the pulley. I just replaced a drive belt that only had a handful of hours on it, because the guy that replaced it, didn't replace the 2 V idler pulleys and both were spread out far enough, that the belt ran in the bottom, never even touching the v sides of the pulley.
Thank you for sharing this I think I can do this. Got 660 hr out of the original and mow 3 acres every week in season. your busted knuckles gonna save me a lot of time. Go Pens
+John Souders I think my short belt life might be attributed to the hills I mow and that I have towed a full sized lawn roller with it many times. GO PENS!!
Not sure anyone thought of it, but on my Murray, I simply took out 3 of the 4 bolts that hold the motor in place and that allowed me to shift the motor back enough to create a large enough space between the pulley and annoying guides (the ones that keep the belt on the pulley) to put a new drive belt on. I recently purchased a Cub Cadet 1000 series and the belt came off yesterday. Towed it back to the shed with the Murray. Will try above method on the Cub. Will let you guys know. . . .
Fantastic! I did not record it but my tension spring is getting weak or my current belt is stretching. I was getting some slip. About 1" from the rear end of the spring is a hole in the frame. I removed belt from the middle idle wheel for slack, then removed the spring, attached to the further hole, and back to the inboard arm last, then put the belt over the idle wheel again. The spring and belt are much tighter now. Handy pre-made hole in the frame. I did the same on my deck belt, there is a square hole in the tension arm, I dropped a bolt-nut in it for a post and stretched the spring to it, much tighter now!
Well, you don't even need the "rope trick" to do this. Just take the plastic fan off of the top of the mower and get an 1 1/8" wrench or socket and put in on the nut you see there. you don't even have to hold the wrench, just let it rotate till it hits the battery tray and wallah, the bottom bolt loosens easily. Not need to get debris from an old dried out rope in a cylinder.
Best method and the most correct method, I don't ever see putting anything in that cylinder that doesn't belong there. Even a small piece of anything left behind can damage the engine. Wayne is right on target.
Instead of removing the electric clutch & lowering or trying to remove the upper pulley, I just bent the integrated metal ears, slipped the belt on,bent the ears back in place. I'm looking to find if there is an adjustment to the belt tension. A new spring...a stronger spring ?
Thank you for video, I have a 2005 LT1050 Cub Cadet, my question, about 17 minutes 40 seconds into it you said the crankshaft or drive pulley fell off and you needed to figure out which way it went on, I ended up pulling the motor out and taking it to a welding shop so it could be heated up because it was rusted on there, unfortunately I wasn't there, it was bent when the belt broke, the part # is 756-0978B, it has an integrated key on it covers half the sleeve and looks like the one on your mower, I was wondering if the key side goes up toward the base of the motor or down toward the PTO, thanks for any help.
Thanks for watching Russell. I have to say this from memory I hope it's correct. If there is a short side to the center post of the pulley you want that next to the engine (high up the shaft). You want the belt groove as close to the engine as possible. If there is a longer side that will face down the shaft. If both sides of shaft are equal length you will have to test fit for the highest groove position. If you get it wrong the belt will ride on the leading edge of the steering plate and quickly fray. Check that edge before attaching clutch, there has to be max clearance. Good luck, I wish I had a better memory!
@@sixty9harleyPittsburghPAPThanks forgetting back to me, I've called cub cadet tech. service dept. and they were no help so they gave me a list of 7 auth. service repair shops and called all those, I ended up with 3 telling me the keyed part of the pulley goes up and 3 telling me down and 1 saying I don't know, I've watched probably 20 videos trying to see the pulley being taken off the shaft and yet to find one, yours was the only one that mentioned the pulley fell off and you have to figure out which side goes up, I'll try it with the short end closest to the motor, thanks again for your help.
@@russell4529 I just remembered: If you remember about how many turns it took to get the bolt out of the shaft, or look at the wear marks on threads that will be how far it will go back on if you have the pulley correct. I do remember once I had it on upside down and the bolt would not screw in as far as it should have.
that's a great idea but the bolt was trashed after I tried using a 3 prong puller and after that didn't work I drilled 2 holes in the pulley and made a homemade pulley to try to get it off, i'll eventually figure it out.
Put the wrench back on the bolt holding the clutch on and easy turn towards loosen to get the motor to turn but not the bolt. Or, take the plastic mesh top off the motor and turn the big nut to loosen compacted rope. The piston is pinching it but only need to move a fraction to allow removal.
I No longer recall, but in my other video I state that the end with the full key slot faces the ground, but I can not verify that is correct. ruclips.net/video/jCJVWTO7Qlw/видео.html&lc=UgzPsXonc4UcoGAnEgZ4AaABAg
Can someone explain the rope to me please. I spent all afternoon tryna get that belt on even unbolted the engine but there is something holding it down towards the seat so it won't lift with enough clearance. So a rope is supposed to allow the bolt to come off?
At 12:15 in the video I explain how to hold the motor from turning so a wrench can loosen the shaft bolt. Further in the video It explains how to route the belt step by step. Thanks for watching, good luck! The hardest part is getting the belt pulley an inch down the shaft so the belt will clear the frame tabs. I will say other owners have raised the motor to take the front of the belt on and off but I am not familiar with that method. However if your pulley is rusted in place lifting the engine may be the easiest method, once raised you can mount the belt and try threading it back thru to fan drive pulley. Others have just wacked-hacked the frame tabs off for belt clearance.
Well, after spending 3 hours trying to replace my drive belt I've hit a snag and not real sure on where to go from here. I've got everything torn down but the clutch. I managed to get the spindle off with the bottom plate of the clutch but the top that has the wire attached WILL NOT BUDGE ! I'm afraid to beat the hell out of it to remove. I do have a small hole to get a driver in but I'm afraid ( giving my history of breaking things ) of breaking something. And no, I've never done this before. What now?
At around 14:40 in the video it shows where and how to "tap" the top of the clutch. I emphasize "tap". The top of the clutch is pretty sturdy so tapping should not damage it. A piece of 1/2 wooden dowel rod might suffice for a stiffer banging on the top without damage. I found that the force required is in direct proportion to the amount of corrosion on your PTO shaft. Spray PB blaster on any area of the shaft you can get to.
Thanks for the advise. I've tinkered with lots of things but not with this in particular. Its simple but a pain. I will attempt again using your tips. Thanks and maybe I will have a better outcome this go around.
Got the clutch removed soaking it with WD40 and tapping with driver and hammer. Had to bend the tabs back to get the new belt on though. But job done and up and running once more. Thanks for the video.
Yes, I learned later you can remove loosen engine mounting bolts slide the engine to the rear, slip on the belt, slide engine to the original position, retighten, then wind through the tention pulleys. The clutch still has to be dropped due to the cable.
There are other ideas in the comment section that are helpful, such as just bending the ears at the pulley, disconnecting the clutch wire instead of dropping it and such. Check your belt tension spring is still strong.
@@sixty9harleyPittsburghPAP thanks for tips. My belt looks to be in good shape even tho its 12 years old. The tractor speed has been dropping over the years and recently barely moved. I put some belt dressing on the drive belt and I now have decent speed. I figure the belt has either stretched or as you suggested the tensioner spring is weak. Or maybe both. Not looking forward to tackling this project but at least I know what needs to be done. Thanks again.
Any secrets to share about the front pulley and dropping it? The drive belt shredded on my LT1050 last week and I am about to undertake the challenge to replace it.
You have probably figured this out by now, but you are burning up drive belts due to a weak tensioner spring, not the quality of the belt. You're new "Kevlar" belt isn't going to last
Don't use Amazon to get a replacement belt. I bought a belt from them from a US supplier. Figured a US company sells belts made in the US, nope it had Chinese writing on it.. Lasted a whole 4 hours....
No way, with the hydro still engaged it would be impossible to push up the hill. I tried, it would not budge. On a cement floor it will move slowly, but that is why the disconnect exists.
57 year old woman , somewhat mechanically inclined , husband out of town ... Was able to replace the transmission belt thanks to this video !! 😄
Thank you for taking the time to make it!
Good luck! Thanks for watching, the worst that can happen is the tractor will still be broken..lol.
Best video on RUclips for changing a drive belt on a LT 1042
Sir, I owe you a big thank you. I worked on getting that clutch off for hours. Several four letter words were spewing from my mouth and then I found your video. The rope in the spark plug hole was genius! I watch several other videos prior and none could help me get it off.
Thank you for watching Jason, check out my other Cub and DIY videos.
take off 4 bolts easy from underneath and the engine comes right ff and dont need to--just slide it back to take old belt off an dput new on. (if the pully gets stuck on)
I agree!
Thanks for the info! My drive belt on my CCSLTX1050 broke yesterday. I am not mechanically inclined, but knew that if I took it in somewhere, it would probably be a couple months getting it back. The CC manual said don't mess with it, but I atched a few RUclips videos last night, and yours was by far the most helpful. I started on the project this morning at 10:30 and was up and running by 2:30. Thanks again! ☝️😎👌
You Da Man! So glad to help out. Thanks for watching. I have other CC videos on my channel ( do you know where your fuse is?) lol. I have to admit after 14 years my CC is with a new family. Funny story, as I was driving to his trailer to load it the drive belt broke. It took as an hour to wench it aboard. I replaced it with this. ruclips.net/video/OLlsTFI2bWs/видео.html
@pittsburghpap... I spent nearly 4 hours fighting to remove the main clutch assembly, watching NUMEROUS RUclips videos and had no luck until I found yours... The rope trick was the ticket!!! I was ready to push my LGTX1050 over the back hill and buy a couple goats! Thanks for a tip I will make sure I pass on to friends who deal with the same issue!!
Thanks for watching Chris, I was not about to buy a compressor and impact wrench either!
Another tip I picked up for the front pulley is to take out the four bolts for the engine to get the clearance you need to get the belt out and back on and put the bolts back on for the engine.
You are correct.
@@mark8850 Just bend the tabs at bottom. It go right in. And also its its best to take 4 screws out on top and hold the big nut so it want turn instead of removing plug an sticking something in the engine
Ronald Hoel that’s what I did.
I guess I was running on borrowed time my drive belt lasted 257 hrs and after getting the deck off for the umpteenth time I found that my belt tensioner spring bit the dust as well as the belt. My PTO slid right off but my unit doesn't have the hole in the deck to get a large driver in to smack the upper pulley. I do thank you for posting this video. I found that if you take the flywheel cover off and use a 12" crescent wrench on the large nut and use a socket wrench on the bottom bolt you don't have to stuff clothes line in a cylinder it's a bunch easier!
To loose & tighten clutch bolt I use a big pair of channel locks on upper pulley shaft. Works fine for me. 3rd belt I've put on my 2007 Slt1550. Last belt from Amazon lasted one season and stretched.Thought I had a rod knock when I heard that tapping sound.
Thanks for the video, appreciate you taking the time to film and put it out there. Hanging the clutch to avoid disconnecting the wire was a good tip. I used a pair of ramps to lift the front wheels, gave me just enough clearance to pull the bolt out and drop that clutch. I did pay $40 for a Harbor Freight 1/2" impact gun, another $10 for sockets, and it was well worth the money. Also nice for the bolts that hold the blades on when you're going to sharpen or change those, avoids having to stick a wooden block in there to prevent spinning while you remove the bolts.
Found the problem< the rope had twisted into a small knot and wouldn't come out of the hole. Pushed it back in a little and wiggled a bit & came right out. Thanks again for the help.
Thank goodness!
The rope trick was awesome. Worked like a charm. Thanks.
+educator3D That is a very good tip, my first attempt at this repair was stymied for many days until I found that trick ( not on youtube )
Thanks for the video - the rope trick made my day!. Florida now but from Pittsburgh - hope all is well in New Stanton and your wife is doing well.
+Kevin Crummie Thank you Kevin. We are trying hard to heal, but it is really slow going. The Pirates are off to a great start, the Penguins are headed for the playoffs so we have plenty of diversions!
Thank you for the video, probably would’ve taken it to the shop without it. I did end up having to unbolt the engine to get the belt around the pulley, due to the fact that it was rust welded to the shaft. Great video! Thanks again 👍
I here ya about that rust, that is what I had the first time also. It should not be that hard!! Thanks for watching. Lots more Cub Cadet vids on my channel.
Thank you sir!! I am a new subscriber to your channel, so I will check them out. Thanks again!!
Pittsburgh Pap about the rust!! I agree. Just glad I didn’t take it to the shop. My local Howard Bros got me for $187 to change out the belt on my cub cadet walk behind, I got 2 cuts before it shredded off. I took it back and they told me that my deck was warped, but they would gladly replace it for $586.00 I say again, thanks for helping do the work myself.
pull front of tractor up off ground until it stands on back wheels. I attach mine to my shed with rope front and back to keep it from falling. great access, fairly safe.
Unconscious mechanic fantastic that was an awesome video ! Why would anybody give you a thumbs down .I've always Been considered a fairly decent mechanic , and I certainly enjoyed your knowledgeable video I'm sure so have a great day buddy . Thanks
Thank you for watching Charles, I appreciate your feedback! Check out my other Cub and DIY videos, even a winery tour!
@ 18:59 in your video, you can see the V idler pulley is shiny in the bottom. That tells me the pulley is junk and the belt will be riding on the inside edge, instead of riding on the V sides of the pulley.
I just replaced a drive belt that only had a handful of hours on it, because the guy that replaced it, didn't replace the 2 V idler pulleys and both were spread out far enough, that the belt ran in the bottom, never even touching the v sides of the pulley.
Good eye! Most would never consider looking for that.
Thank you for sharing this I think I can do this. Got 660 hr out of the original and mow 3 acres every week in season. your busted knuckles gonna save me a lot of time. Go Pens
+John Souders I think my short belt life might be attributed to the hills I mow and that I have towed a full sized lawn roller with it many times. GO PENS!!
Not sure anyone thought of it, but on my Murray, I simply took out 3 of the 4 bolts that hold the motor in place and that allowed me to shift the motor back enough to create a large enough space between the pulley and annoying guides (the ones that keep the belt on the pulley) to put a new drive belt on. I recently purchased a Cub Cadet 1000 series and the belt came off yesterday. Towed it back to the shed with the Murray. Will try above method on the Cub. Will let you guys know. . . .
There are alternative methods. Your suggestion is a good one !
Just did it and it worked a treat.
Fantastic! I did not record it but my tension spring is getting weak or my current belt is stretching. I was getting some slip. About 1" from the rear end of the spring is a hole in the frame. I removed belt from the middle idle wheel for slack, then removed the spring, attached to the further hole, and back to the inboard arm last, then put the belt over the idle wheel again. The spring and belt are much tighter now. Handy pre-made hole in the frame. I did the same on my deck belt, there is a square hole in the tension arm, I dropped a bolt-nut in it for a post and stretched the spring to it, much tighter now!
Well, you don't even need the "rope trick" to do this. Just take the plastic fan off of the top of the mower and get an 1 1/8" wrench or socket and put in on the nut you see there. you don't even have to hold the wrench, just let it rotate till it hits the battery tray and wallah, the bottom bolt loosens easily. Not need to get debris from an old dried out rope in a cylinder.
Best method and the most correct method, I don't ever see putting anything in that cylinder that doesn't belong there. Even a small piece of anything left behind can damage the engine. Wayne is right on target.
I found it better to loosen the the 4 bolts holding the engine in place. The engine slot is oval to move the engine around
Instead of removing the electric clutch & lowering or trying to remove the upper pulley, I just bent the integrated metal ears, slipped the belt on,bent the ears back in place. I'm looking to find if there is an adjustment to the belt tension. A new spring...a stronger spring ?
Thank you for video, I have a 2005 LT1050 Cub Cadet, my question, about 17 minutes 40 seconds into it you said the crankshaft or drive pulley fell off and you needed to figure out which way it went on, I ended up pulling the motor out and taking it to a welding shop so it could be heated up because it was rusted on there, unfortunately I wasn't there, it was bent when the belt broke, the part # is 756-0978B, it has an integrated key on it covers half the sleeve and looks like the one on your mower, I was wondering if the key side goes up toward the base of the motor or down toward the PTO, thanks for any help.
Thanks for watching Russell. I have to say this from memory I hope it's correct. If there is a short side to the center post of the pulley you want that next to the engine (high up the shaft). You want the belt groove as close to the engine as possible. If there is a longer side that will face down the shaft. If both sides of shaft are equal length you will have to test fit for the highest groove position. If you get it wrong the belt will ride on the leading edge of the steering plate and quickly fray. Check that edge before attaching clutch, there has to be max clearance. Good luck, I wish I had a better memory!
@@sixty9harleyPittsburghPAPThanks forgetting back to me, I've called cub cadet tech. service dept. and they were no help so they gave me a list of 7 auth. service repair shops and called all those, I ended up with 3 telling me the keyed part of the pulley goes up and 3 telling me down and 1 saying I don't know, I've watched probably 20 videos trying to see the pulley being taken off the shaft and yet to find one, yours was the only one that mentioned the pulley fell off and you have to figure out which side goes up, I'll try it with the short end closest to the motor, thanks again for your help.
@@russell4529 I just remembered: If you remember about how many turns it took to get the bolt out of the shaft, or look at the wear marks on threads that will be how far it will go back on if you have the pulley correct. I do remember once I had it on upside down and the bolt would not screw in as far as it should have.
that's a great idea but the bolt was trashed after I tried using a 3 prong puller and after that didn't work I drilled 2 holes in the pulley and made a homemade pulley to try to get it off, i'll eventually figure it out.
Put the wrench on it, I can hear the piston moving but the rope is still not free. suggestions
Just remove 4 engine mount bolts, tilt engine, belt slips on. Easy!
Great video, changed my belt. Now I can't get the rope out , any help is appreciated.
Put the wrench back on the bolt holding the clutch on and easy turn towards loosen to get the motor to turn but not the bolt. Or, take the plastic mesh top off the motor and turn the big nut to loosen compacted rope. The piston is pinching it but only need to move a fraction to allow removal.
Thanks for the help. I'll be out of town for a few days, but I'll let you know how it turns out. Thanks again
@@sixty9harleyPittsburghPAP Don't put nothing in your engine. there is nut on top of engine to hold it. Geez
I have the same model, what size is the belt for it. Im having a difficult time finding it.
Sorry, I gave the machine and owners manual away. Go to cub website the info is there.
Was the thick side of pulley pointed down
I No longer recall, but in my other video I state that the end with the full key slot faces the ground, but I can not verify that is correct. ruclips.net/video/jCJVWTO7Qlw/видео.html&lc=UgzPsXonc4UcoGAnEgZ4AaABAg
You must verify the pulley is in the highest position, as close to the engine as possible.
Can someone explain the rope to me please. I spent all afternoon tryna get that belt on even unbolted the engine but there is something holding it down towards the seat so it won't lift with enough clearance. So a rope is supposed to allow the bolt to come off?
At 12:15 in the video I explain how to hold the motor from turning so a wrench can loosen the shaft bolt. Further in the video It explains how to route the belt step by step. Thanks for watching, good luck! The hardest part is getting the belt pulley an inch down the shaft so the belt will clear the frame tabs. I will say other owners have raised the motor to take the front of the belt on and off but I am not familiar with that method. However if your pulley is rusted in place lifting the engine may be the easiest method, once raised you can mount the belt and try threading it back thru to fan drive pulley. Others have just wacked-hacked the frame tabs off for belt clearance.
a vise grip on the pulley works
you need a good Kevlar belt. mine has 689 hours on it. come from eBay. cheap too.
Well, after spending 3 hours trying to replace my drive belt I've hit a snag and not real sure on where to go from here. I've got everything torn down but the clutch. I managed to get the spindle off with the bottom plate of the clutch but the top that has the wire attached WILL NOT BUDGE ! I'm afraid to beat the hell out of it to remove. I do have a small hole to get a driver in but I'm afraid ( giving my history of breaking things ) of breaking something. And no, I've never done this before. What now?
At around 14:40 in the video it shows where and how to "tap" the top of the clutch. I emphasize "tap". The top of the clutch is pretty sturdy so tapping should not damage it. A piece of 1/2 wooden dowel rod might suffice for a stiffer banging on the top without damage. I found that the force required is in direct proportion to the amount of corrosion on your PTO shaft. Spray PB blaster on any area of the shaft you can get to.
Thanks for the advise. I've tinkered with lots of things but not with this in particular. Its simple but a pain. I will attempt again using your tips. Thanks and maybe I will have a better outcome this go around.
Got the clutch removed soaking it with WD40 and tapping with driver and hammer. Had to bend the tabs back to get the new belt on though. But job done and up and running once more. Thanks for the video.
Yaaaay!
3 reasons i hesitate to take any advice:
damaged own oil seal
got arm stuck in tractor
deck belt cracked and breaking
does NOT instill confidence
how do I raise the deck up my cub 1000
at 3:09 in this video dead center of the screen is a handle, pull up on it.
Rope trick was great. Rest of it took way to long. Just fix it and stop telling stories. Thumbs up
You do not have to pull the motor - that pulley slides down once you remove the PTO.
+Todd Crawford If your lucky and your pulley will slide. But if it is corroded in place you have BIG problems.
Is there any way to reach this belt without taking the lower pulley and clutch off such lifting the body and installing from the top?
.
Yes, I learned later you can remove loosen engine mounting bolts slide the engine to the rear, slip on the belt, slide engine to the original position, retighten, then wind through the tention pulleys. The clutch still has to be dropped due to the cable.
There are other ideas in the comment section that are helpful, such as just bending the ears at the pulley, disconnecting the clutch wire instead of dropping it and such. Check your belt tension spring is still strong.
@@sixty9harleyPittsburghPAP thanks for tips. My belt looks to be in good shape even tho its 12 years old. The tractor speed has been dropping over the years and recently barely moved. I put some belt dressing on the drive belt and I now have decent speed. I figure the belt has either stretched or as you suggested the tensioner spring is weak. Or maybe both. Not looking forward to tackling this project but at least I know what needs to be done. Thanks again.
Look for a new spot to stretch the spring to, belt slippage will destroy it.
@@sixty9harleyPittsburghPAPthanks, I hadn't thought of doing that, figured I'd just buy a new one along with a new belt.
Don't buy belts from a dealer...you'll pay $70 or more for a $15 V-Belt.
I agree, as I show in the video they are available on Ebay for $15 total shipped to your house. And always use KEVLAR!
After 14 years and many repairs I got a new ride, check it out! ruclips.net/video/OLlsTFI2bWs/видео.html
takes me about 30 minutes to change it...I have done it several times tho
Takes quite a while with a camera in one hand... lol
Any secrets to share about the front pulley and dropping it? The drive belt shredded on my LT1050 last week and I am about to undertake the challenge to replace it.
You have probably figured this out by now, but you are burning up drive belts due to a weak tensioner spring, not the quality of the belt. You're new "Kevlar" belt isn't going to last
Don't use Amazon to get a replacement belt. I bought a belt from them from a US supplier. Figured a US company sells belts made in the US, nope it had Chinese writing on it.. Lasted a whole 4 hours....
Anyone else just try flipping the tractor onto its side?
Yes, but smaller model and a bigger owner.. lol.
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You didn't need to pull the transmission release your belt was gone
No way, with the hydro still engaged it would be impossible to push up the hill. I tried, it would not budge. On a cement floor it will move slowly, but that is why the disconnect exists.
Best video on RUclips for changing a drive belt on a LT 1042
@@blackwellz717 Thank you kindly Sir! Check out my other Cub videos!