You're doing it a hard way. Don't have to disconnect and take all that apart. Remove clutch bracket. Put belt around the front pulleys. Use something from back to pull the belt towards back and put around clutch pulley. Put clutch bracket back on. Had to do it out in the field. I'm not even mechanical inclined
Totally agree if your mower deck allows you to. There is no way to fish the drive belt on mine without dropping clutch due to a frame post that lies along side clutch assembly. Deck belt is pretty easy though.
Same here. Had to remove the tension pulley spring but that's it. If you do that, make sure you've got a spring puller or manufacture one by grinding a notch in an old flathead screwdriver like me 😂.
This was excellent instruction. I couldn’t move the engine with the muffler interfering. I used your method of removing the cover and using a torque bar and impact wrench, worked very well to drop the pulley. Thank you very much for saving me trailer and repair fees to the local shop.
Basically I got a brand new Briggs & Stratton engine that I put on the body and as you may know the wiring harness does not match could you basically tell me what each one of those two color coordinated
I just now finally got it running where I can crank it from the Ki but now it will not turn off from the Ki so I just took it back out also today is the first day that I got it running fully and I realize that the PTO is not engaging the BLAZE also my our meter with the lights over there is not working I see a drink if I have to jump off battery but that’s about it
Thanks for video, My mower engine isn’t turning any belts unless I engage the PTO for the blades. Should the top belt spin all of the time when the engine is running? Thanks
Thanks Terry, yes, RTZ 42. More in depth diagnosis showed that the shaft is spinning, but the belt isn't. Belt is so worn/ stretched that the tensioner pulley is all the way out and still not doing it's job. I have ordered a new belt. Could be the original one. 300 hours and a 2005 machine. @@terryclayton
@@martynwilliams351 Good troubleshooting! When you change the belt check to see that the tensioner pulley moves smoothly to apply correct tension. On an older unit that can sometimes get sticky causing belt to slip too! Good luck!!
all i did was loosen the clutch bolt enough to slip the belt on, didnt have to take clutch all the way off but i am stuck now on getting the rest of the belt on, not easy
@@terryclayton so put belt on tensioner first then the others ? and dont even mess with the spring ? because thats nothing i wanna mess with from what i see on videos but i gott get it back on somehow as easy as possible if sucha thing lol
@@tonygillette2012put belt on on pulleys except tensioner. With heavy gloves on push tensioner back just enough to slip belt on. Takes a little muscling but I did not remove spring to tensioner.
I'm sorry, but it's a no from me. This video is not about how to change out the drive belt, but How to Take Apart a Lawn Mower without learning anything". I've done this in the field more than once. Granted, its tight, but all this disassembly is totally unnecessary. Did you know that clutch bolt needs to be torqued ? The specific torque you use on that bolt determines whether or not your clutch bearings are going to wear out prematurely. Why did you take it off ? My clutch manufacturer specifies a specific torque on that bolt at 44 pounds foot. If you use Thread Locker you have now "lubed" the threads so it's going to torque down TOO tight. Loctite recommends reducing that torque value by 20% which is now 36 pounds foot. But what did you do ? You hit it with the torque gun ! YEAY ! Your clutch is as good as junk now. How do they say it ... Tell me your clutch went out a week later without telling me your clutch went out a week later. Had you simply removed the tensioner pulley spring this would have been a simple, very tight, but a simple deal just the same. Why is your machine so filthy nasty. I have the RZT-50 and mow commercially. Mine's an old 2006 model with over 1500 hours on it and it doesn't look like yours. Thumbs Down from me. But keep videoing, good job on the video production.
Appreciate the input and I totally agree on torque spec. My particular model (2009 w/Kawi) requires dropping clutch to thread a new belt. No way around it. She is running well currently. My clutch is old and has been slipping for a few years on and off so when I decide to tackle that I will include your torque input! Thank you!
You're doing it a hard way. Don't have to disconnect and take all that apart. Remove clutch bracket. Put belt around the front pulleys. Use something from back to pull the belt towards back and put around clutch pulley. Put clutch bracket back on. Had to do it out in the field. I'm not even mechanical inclined
Totally agree if your mower deck allows you to. There is no way to fish the drive belt on mine without dropping clutch due to a frame post that lies along side clutch assembly. Deck belt is pretty easy though.
Same here. Had to remove the tension pulley spring but that's it. If you do that, make sure you've got a spring puller or manufacture one by grinding a notch in an old flathead screwdriver like me 😂.
@@matt_lee_media
Your on the money..
I'm not real bright either but that's why you got to watch more than one video I thought he went way too far
This was excellent instruction. I couldn’t move the engine with the muffler interfering. I used your method of removing the cover and using a torque bar and impact wrench, worked very well to drop the pulley. Thank you very much for saving me trailer and repair fees to the local shop.
Great to hear! 💥💰
terry would you know alot about this model? i just brought a used one and its a mess
Let me know the issue. I’ll be changing my blades soon before spring.
Basically I got a brand new Briggs & Stratton engine that I put on the body and as you may know the wiring harness does not match could you basically tell me what each one of those two color coordinated
I just now finally got it running where I can crank it from the Ki but now it will not turn off from the Ki so I just took it back out also today is the first day that I got it running fully and I realize that the PTO is not engaging the BLAZE also my our meter with the lights over there is not working I see a drink if I have to jump off battery but that’s about it
Match your model to the correct wiring schematic. Download from this site: www.ccpartsnmore.com/cub-cadet-wiring-schematics
I think you may have wires connected incorrectly. See if the schematics help you. You are very close! Good luck !
Thanks for video,
My mower engine isn’t turning any belts unless I engage the PTO for the blades.
Should the top belt spin all of the time when the engine is running?
Thanks
My drive belt to the hydrostatics runs while engine is running. And when I hit the PTO, the deck belt engages. Do you have an RZT?
Thanks Terry, yes, RTZ 42. More in depth diagnosis showed that the shaft is spinning, but the belt isn't. Belt is so worn/ stretched that the tensioner pulley is all the way out and still not doing it's job. I have ordered a new belt. Could be the original one. 300 hours and a 2005 machine. @@terryclayton
@@martynwilliams351 Good troubleshooting! When you change the belt check to see that the tensioner pulley moves smoothly to apply correct tension. On an older unit that can sometimes get sticky causing belt to slip too! Good luck!!
Funniest part … “I’m gonna make my life simple …” 😂🤣😂
Wow you may as well rebuild the whole mower you sure took enough of it apart lol
I know I should have done ignition coils while I was at it!
all i did was loosen the clutch bolt enough to slip the belt on, didnt have to take clutch all the way off but i am stuck now on getting the rest of the belt on, not easy
That’s great, I fished it around all pulleys except tensioner first. Then I pushed tensioner back and slipped the belt on. Good luck!!
@@terryclayton so put belt on tensioner first then the others ? and dont even mess with the spring ? because thats nothing i wanna mess with from what i see on videos but i gott get it back on somehow as easy as possible if sucha thing lol
@@tonygillette2012put belt on on pulleys except tensioner. With heavy gloves on push tensioner back just enough to slip belt on. Takes a little muscling but I did not remove spring to tensioner.
You seriously didn’t think those two jack stands weren’t strong enough to hold up the mower ?!?!?
LOL, good point. It wasn’t the jack stands I was worried about. This is a residential grade mower and frame is not as beefy as I’d like.😊
Much easier to take out the motor mounts move it ahead a little and put the belt on
I'm sorry, but it's a no from me.
This video is not about how to change out the drive belt, but How to Take Apart a Lawn Mower without learning anything".
I've done this in the field more than once.
Granted, its tight, but all this disassembly is totally unnecessary.
Did you know that clutch bolt needs to be torqued ?
The specific torque you use on that bolt determines whether or not your clutch bearings are going to wear out prematurely.
Why did you take it off ?
My clutch manufacturer specifies a specific torque on that bolt at 44 pounds foot.
If you use Thread Locker you have now "lubed" the threads so it's going to torque down TOO tight.
Loctite recommends reducing that torque value by 20% which is now 36 pounds foot.
But what did you do ?
You hit it with the torque gun ! YEAY !
Your clutch is as good as junk now.
How do they say it ... Tell me your clutch went out a week later without telling me your clutch went out a week later.
Had you simply removed the tensioner pulley spring this would have been a simple, very tight, but a simple deal just the same.
Why is your machine so filthy nasty.
I have the RZT-50 and mow commercially.
Mine's an old 2006 model with over 1500 hours on it and it doesn't look like yours.
Thumbs Down from me.
But keep videoing, good job on the video production.
Appreciate the input and I totally agree on torque spec. My particular model (2009 w/Kawi) requires dropping clutch to thread a new belt. No way around it. She is running well currently. My clutch is old and has been slipping for a few years on and off so when I decide to tackle that I will include your torque input! Thank you!
Do not use this video