Thank you for taking time to show the details of replacing the drive belt and idler pulleys. I have the same Cub which I bought used. I had to replace the deck hanger pin which hold the lifting arms for deck. This is the pin which is welded through the main frame of tractor. I drilled out the original pin and installed a hardened bolt which I had made a hole for the bow tie cotter pin. Now I have been waiting for your video which showed me how to proceed. You're the only one who actually pulls the idler pulley mounting plate off. I took it off to replace the welded frame pin. Cub Cadet does not sell these welded deck hanger pins (they are considered part of the main frame). This video has given me confidence that I can get the drive belt pulleys back in working order. The extra effort you took to get "clear, up close, detailed shots" has got to be the best I've seen so far.
Thank you for such a thoughtful post and your very kind words. I do not like to duplicate content that is well done on RUclips. In researching this job, I saw nothing that could be considered helpful to anyone. In all cases camera work was poor, explanations were difficult to follow. No one explained that you engage the brake to release tension on the belt and disengage the brake to release tension on the springs. It was a very simple step to remove the mounting plate and made the job so much easier.
Thank you for such an informative and accurate video. We have the XT1. I had to be creative when reattaching the spring, as it required more strength than I am capable of, but I was still able to do it. At least I can be confident it is done correctly. I truly appreciate you!
Thanks for the kind words. Did you have the parking brake released as that would have made the spring a little easier to stretch? I am 71 and I was able to attach it very easily. In any event I am glad you got the job done. I think the job is a lot easier when that mounting plate is removed as in the video. Thanks for watching
On my old machine I had for 8 years never needed this repair. The issue with the cub cadet is the idler pully is made out of plastic. After about 300 hours it will start to develop a flat spot. Before long the pully will stop turning all together and melt as you saw had happened to the one in the video. There are a number of parts Cub Cadet chose to make out of plastic that would have been much better made of steel.
@@richardspaulding5035 Not a surprise. The two Cubs I own are shaft driven, so they probably won't need this. The Craftsman probably will at some point.
Yes, I think the only difference is you have a manual power take off and I have an electronic takeoff. I would much prefer the manual take off as the electronic one I have will cost a lot of money when it finally fails.
I have had to perform this job on 2 different machines. Both occurred around 300 hours and, in both cases, it was the plastic idler pully that failed. I watched a number of these repairs on RUclips. They all struggled to replace the parts in the machine and not to mention terrible camera work. It was so much easier removing the mounting plate and working on the bench. Thanks for watching.
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Thank you for taking time to show the details of replacing the drive belt and idler pulleys. I have the same Cub which I bought used. I had to replace the deck hanger pin which hold the lifting arms for deck. This is the pin which is welded through the main frame of tractor. I drilled out the original pin and installed a hardened bolt which I had made a hole for the bow tie cotter pin. Now I have been waiting for your video which showed me how to proceed. You're the only one who actually pulls the idler pulley mounting plate off. I took it off to replace the welded frame pin. Cub Cadet does not sell these welded deck hanger pins (they are considered part of the main frame). This video has given me confidence that I can get the drive belt pulleys back in working order. The extra effort you took to get "clear, up close, detailed shots" has got to be the best I've seen so far.
Thank you for such a thoughtful post and your very kind words. I do not like to duplicate content that is well done on RUclips. In researching this job, I saw nothing that could be considered helpful to anyone. In all cases camera work was poor, explanations were difficult to follow. No one explained that you engage the brake to release tension on the belt and disengage the brake to release tension on the springs. It was a very simple step to remove the mounting plate and made the job so much easier.
Thank you for such an informative and accurate video. We have the XT1. I had to be creative when reattaching the spring, as it required more strength than I am capable of, but I was still able to do it. At least I can be confident it is done correctly. I truly appreciate you!
Thanks for the kind words. Did you have the parking brake released as that would have made the spring a little easier to stretch? I am 71 and I was able to attach it very easily. In any event I am glad you got the job done. I think the job is a lot easier when that mounting plate is removed as in the video. Thanks for watching
This video was a great help to me, thanks.
Thanks, I think the job is a lot easier with the mounting plate removed as in the video
For some reason, I have never had to perform this service. Most of my tractors are 10 years old or more. So sooner or later.... Thanks for the info.
On my old machine I had for 8 years never needed this repair. The issue with the cub cadet is the idler pully is made out of plastic. After about 300 hours it will start to develop a flat spot. Before long the pully will stop turning all together and melt as you saw had happened to the one in the video. There are a number of parts Cub Cadet chose to make out of plastic that would have been much better made of steel.
@@richardspaulding5035 Not a surprise. The two Cubs I own are shaft driven, so they probably won't need this. The Craftsman probably will at some point.
Great video, I have the XT1 and everything looks about the same.
Yes, I think the only difference is you have a manual power take off and I have an electronic takeoff. I would much prefer the manual take off as the electronic one I have will cost a lot of money when it finally fails.
Thank you. I have the same machine.
I have had to perform this job on 2 different machines. Both occurred around 300 hours and, in both cases, it was the plastic idler pully that failed. I watched a number of these repairs on RUclips. They all struggled to replace the parts in the machine and not to mention terrible camera work. It was so much easier removing the mounting plate and working on the bench. Thanks for watching.