Thank you for taking time to show the details of replacing the drive belt and idler pulleys. I have the same Cub which I bought used. I had to replace the deck hanger pin which hold the lifting arms for deck. This is the pin which is welded through the main frame of tractor. I drilled out the original pin and installed a hardened bolt which I had made a hole for the bow tie cotter pin. Now I have been waiting for your video which showed me how to proceed. You're the only one who actually pulls the idler pulley mounting plate off. I took it off to replace the welded frame pin. Cub Cadet does not sell these welded deck hanger pins (they are considered part of the main frame). This video has given me confidence that I can get the drive belt pulleys back in working order. The extra effort you took to get "clear, up close, detailed shots" has got to be the best I've seen so far.
Thank you for such a thoughtful post and your very kind words. I do not like to duplicate content that is well done on RUclips. In researching this job, I saw nothing that could be considered helpful to anyone. In all cases camera work was poor, explanations were difficult to follow. No one explained that you engage the brake to release tension on the belt and disengage the brake to release tension on the springs. It was a very simple step to remove the mounting plate and made the job so much easier.
Apologies for the delayed response. We've only just had our electricity and internet restored here in Houston, Texas, after the hurricane. Thankfully, everything is now back to normal. Your video was incredibly helpful-I managed to repair everything and we're up and running again. It's amazing how much easier life is with the support of helpful people like you
Thanks for the kind words. I had done this repair a number of times due to the plastic idler pully. I always pulled down the mounting plate as it makes the job so much easier. I was confused why all the other videos I saw struggled mightily trying to do the repair with the mounting plate still in the machine.
Thanks, I think I have the only video that shows the removal of the mounting plate to replace the drive belt and pullies. Although, there may be some copycats out there by now. LOL
By far the best video. No one advised to use the drill outs on the flywheel for clutch removal and nothing else work as I do t have an impact driver. Waiting for replace,ent pulley but after 7 years, it put in a good service. To all else, keep that underside blown out and free of grass around the idlers. The one I’m replacing melted to almost unrecognizable shapes. Thanks for a concise, well done job
A very common problem on those machines. Usually occurs around 300 hours. I am curious to learn how many hours were on your machine, thanks for the kind words.
@@johnrankin9129 Thanks for getting back to me, I have done a number of these now and that is the earliest. If only they would have made that idler pully out of metal, it would last the life of the machine. Alas they must make too much money on the repairs LOL
Thank you for such an informative and accurate video. We have the XT1. I had to be creative when reattaching the spring, as it required more strength than I am capable of, but I was still able to do it. At least I can be confident it is done correctly. I truly appreciate you!
Thanks for the kind words. Did you have the parking brake released as that would have made the spring a little easier to stretch? I am 71 and I was able to attach it very easily. In any event I am glad you got the job done. I think the job is a lot easier when that mounting plate is removed as in the video. Thanks for watching
Thanks, if the pulleys were made of steel instead of plastic, they would last the life of the machine. Every cadet machine I have seen north of 300 hours needs this repair.
All the videos I saw on the subject struggled to replace those components with the mounting plate in the machine. It was so much easier to pull it down and do the work on the bench.
I have done this repair a number of times on these machines. Always occurs around 300 hours give or take. On one machine recently I did the repair a 2nd time, the 1st was at 300 hours the 2nd was a little over 600 hours. It is all because the idler pully is made of plastic. If it were made of metal (as it should have been) I believe the belt would last the life of the machine.
Your video is helpful. I’m curious as to why you didn’t just remove the snap ring at the rear and slide that up rather than wrestle the belt around it. Removing the fan and pulley was easy. Thanks.
Thanks for this. Best video I found on it. But, I messed up and somehow removed the 'brake rod' that connects from a spring in the rear to the pedal assembly. It looks like i may need to take everything apart again in order to get it properly to fit the rod in the slot on the pedal rod. 😞
On my old machine I had for 8 years never needed this repair. The issue with the cub cadet is the idler pully is made out of plastic. After about 300 hours it will start to develop a flat spot. Before long the pully will stop turning all together and melt as you saw had happened to the one in the video. There are a number of parts Cub Cadet chose to make out of plastic that would have been much better made of steel.
@@richardspaulding5035 Not a surprise. The two Cubs I own are shaft driven, so they probably won't need this. The Craftsman probably will at some point.
What's the purpose of the "ducktail / butterfly-ended" lever? That one seems to be missing from my used XT2, which I had for some years now. Is it like a "handbrake"?
I know what you are taking about. It rides in a slot in that mounting plate I took down. In the days to come I will pull the machine back in and try to observe it's function. Stay tuned.
@@richardspaulding5035 Thanks. The spring that you also removed, I had that snap for me yesterday so the tractor stopped moving. I got a new spring which I will install today, so I guess I'll try to put it back together without that lever and see if it runs or not :)
@@richardspaulding5035 just finished putting it back together, without the missing lever. It works fine. Even the brake pedal as noticeable braking when applied, compared to just using the forward/reverse pedal. Curious.
Yes, I think the only difference is you have a manual power take off and I have an electronic takeoff. I would much prefer the manual take off as the electronic one I have will cost a lot of money when it finally fails.
I don't know when I will be doing this job again. I thought that tension spring was pretty well covered in the video. I showed where it connects on the bench @8:56 and under the machine.@ 20:44 and 21:14
I have had to perform this job on 2 different machines. Both occurred around 300 hours and, in both cases, it was the plastic idler pully that failed. I watched a number of these repairs on RUclips. They all struggled to replace the parts in the machine and not to mention terrible camera work. It was so much easier removing the mounting plate and working on the bench. Thanks for watching.
OMG this makes me ill. I pried, beat and pulled to no avail. My pulley is rust welded on. Sprayed it, heated it with a torch, used a gear puller, all I did was wreck it. And yours slid right off. I had to pull my engine to get the new belt on. Lost my religion over this one but it’s done. Just cut the grass
To be honest I expected to have difficulty but was pleasantly surprised. Fortunately, those engines come up quite easily with just four bolts holding it to the frame. As I recall from a different repair you had to use a 9/16 socket. Funny in this age Cub Cadet mostly still uses SAE nuts and bolts. Glad you go the job done.
Hello, we want to sell these two lawn mower tensioners. Can you post a link? We can give you 10 sets of this product and give them to fans in a lottery to increase your number of fans.
![Replace Transmission Drive Belt on Cub Cadet XT1 [Easier Than You Think!]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/2QHDH6M7iQ4/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for taking time to show the details of replacing the drive belt and idler pulleys. I have the same Cub which I bought used. I had to replace the deck hanger pin which hold the lifting arms for deck. This is the pin which is welded through the main frame of tractor. I drilled out the original pin and installed a hardened bolt which I had made a hole for the bow tie cotter pin. Now I have been waiting for your video which showed me how to proceed. You're the only one who actually pulls the idler pulley mounting plate off. I took it off to replace the welded frame pin. Cub Cadet does not sell these welded deck hanger pins (they are considered part of the main frame). This video has given me confidence that I can get the drive belt pulleys back in working order. The extra effort you took to get "clear, up close, detailed shots" has got to be the best I've seen so far.
Thank you for such a thoughtful post and your very kind words. I do not like to duplicate content that is well done on RUclips. In researching this job, I saw nothing that could be considered helpful to anyone. In all cases camera work was poor, explanations were difficult to follow. No one explained that you engage the brake to release tension on the belt and disengage the brake to release tension on the springs. It was a very simple step to remove the mounting plate and made the job so much easier.
Apologies for the delayed response. We've only just had our electricity and internet restored here in Houston, Texas, after the hurricane. Thankfully, everything is now back to normal. Your video was incredibly helpful-I managed to repair everything and we're up and running again. It's amazing how much easier life is with the support of helpful people like you
Thanks for the kind words. I had done this repair a number of times due to the plastic idler pully. I always pulled down the mounting plate as it makes the job so much easier. I was confused why all the other videos I saw struggled mightily trying to do the repair with the mounting plate still in the machine.
I am glad you and yours came through ok, thanks for the kind words.
Best video by far on the net. Thanks for taking the time to produce such a great tutorial!
Thanks, I think I have the only video that shows the removal of the mounting plate to replace the drive belt and pullies. Although, there may be some copycats out there by now. LOL
By far the best video. No one advised to use the drill outs on the flywheel for clutch removal and nothing else work as I do t have an impact driver. Waiting for replace,ent pulley but after 7 years, it put in a good service. To all else, keep that underside blown out and free of grass around the idlers. The one I’m replacing melted to almost unrecognizable shapes.
Thanks for a concise, well done job
Yea they should have made that part out of metal. Thanks for the kind words.
Thanks so much for this video. My idler pulley did exactly like yours did but was not as severe. Thanks again very nice!
A very common problem on those machines. Usually occurs around 300 hours. I am curious to learn how many hours were on your machine, thanks for the kind words.
@@richardspaulding5035 this happened to me at 152 hrs.
@@johnrankin9129 Thanks for getting back to me, I have done a number of these now and that is the earliest. If only they would have made that idler pully out of metal, it would last the life of the machine. Alas they must make too much money on the repairs LOL
Thank you for such an informative and accurate video. We have the XT1. I had to be creative when reattaching the spring, as it required more strength than I am capable of, but I was still able to do it. At least I can be confident it is done correctly. I truly appreciate you!
Thanks for the kind words. Did you have the parking brake released as that would have made the spring a little easier to stretch? I am 71 and I was able to attach it very easily. In any event I am glad you got the job done. I think the job is a lot easier when that mounting plate is removed as in the video. Thanks for watching
Best video on this topic thank you!
Thanks, if the pulleys were made of steel instead of plastic, they would last the life of the machine. Every cadet machine I have seen north of 300 hours needs this repair.
Nice and easily described...
Thank you.. 👍👍👍
thanks, i hope it was helpful
This video was a great help to me, thanks.
Thanks, I think the job is a lot easier with the mounting plate removed as in the video
All the videos I saw on the subject struggled to replace those components with the mounting plate in the machine. It was so much easier to pull it down and do the work on the bench.
Great video. Very helpful. Much thanks!!
I have done this repair a number of times on these machines. Always occurs around 300 hours give or take. On one machine recently I did the repair a 2nd time, the 1st was at 300 hours the 2nd was a little over 600 hours. It is all because the idler pully is made of plastic. If it were made of metal (as it should have been) I believe the belt would last the life of the machine.
Your video is helpful. I’m curious as to why you didn’t just remove the snap ring at the rear and slide that up rather than wrestle the belt around it. Removing the fan and pulley was easy. Thanks.
LOL thanks, did not occur to me. Perhaps it would have been too easy. I will try that next time.
Thanks for this. Best video I found on it. But, I messed up and somehow removed the 'brake rod' that connects from a spring in the rear to the pedal assembly. It looks like i may need to take everything apart again in order to get it properly to fit the rod in the slot on the pedal rod. 😞
I am not sure exactly which of the 2 but sounds like you have I figured out. Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching.
What brand is the lift you’re using ?? And model ??
Thanks 😊
Search Mojack mower lift. it is available on Amazon and elsewhere.
For some reason, I have never had to perform this service. Most of my tractors are 10 years old or more. So sooner or later.... Thanks for the info.
On my old machine I had for 8 years never needed this repair. The issue with the cub cadet is the idler pully is made out of plastic. After about 300 hours it will start to develop a flat spot. Before long the pully will stop turning all together and melt as you saw had happened to the one in the video. There are a number of parts Cub Cadet chose to make out of plastic that would have been much better made of steel.
@@richardspaulding5035 Not a surprise. The two Cubs I own are shaft driven, so they probably won't need this. The Craftsman probably will at some point.
The spring you said not to remove came loose and I can’t figure out where it reattaches. Any advice?
The machine in the video is still here. As soon as I can, I will take a look at it and get back to you. most Likely Saturday.
Here is a link to a video I posted a few minutes ago. hopefully it will help you reconnect that spring. ruclips.net/video/rUeUoLtmSEw/видео.html
What's the purpose of the "ducktail / butterfly-ended" lever? That one seems to be missing from my used XT2, which I had for some years now. Is it like a "handbrake"?
I know what you are taking about. It rides in a slot in that mounting plate I took down. In the days to come I will pull the machine back in and try to observe it's function. Stay tuned.
@@richardspaulding5035 Thanks. The spring that you also removed, I had that snap for me yesterday so the tractor stopped moving. I got a new spring which I will install today, so I guess I'll try to put it back together without that lever and see if it runs or not :)
@@richardspaulding5035 just finished putting it back together, without the missing lever. It works fine. Even the brake pedal as noticeable braking when applied, compared to just using the forward/reverse pedal. Curious.
Great video, I have the XT1 and everything looks about the same.
Yes, I think the only difference is you have a manual power take off and I have an electronic takeoff. I would much prefer the manual take off as the electronic one I have will cost a lot of money when it finally fails.
Could you do a real quick video on the tension spring placement? Like a real dumb :;()) I didn’t take pictures
I don't know when I will be doing this job again. I thought that tension spring was pretty well covered in the video. I showed where it connects on the bench @8:56 and under the machine.@ 20:44 and 21:14
It’s the craps but they cloud have kept it simple 😢😢😢 but it keeps us mechanics busy 😊😊😊
I would have been nice if the pulleys were made of metal. Then the repair would be unnecessary as they would most likely outlast the machine.
Thank you. I have the same machine.
I have had to perform this job on 2 different machines. Both occurred around 300 hours and, in both cases, it was the plastic idler pully that failed. I watched a number of these repairs on RUclips. They all struggled to replace the parts in the machine and not to mention terrible camera work. It was so much easier removing the mounting plate and working on the bench. Thanks for watching.
OMG this makes me ill. I pried, beat and pulled to no avail. My pulley is rust welded on. Sprayed it, heated it with a torch, used a gear puller, all I did was wreck it. And yours slid right off. I had to pull my engine to get the new belt on. Lost my religion over this one but it’s done. Just cut the grass
To be honest I expected to have difficulty but was pleasantly surprised. Fortunately, those engines come up quite easily with just four bolts holding it to the frame. As I recall from a different repair you had to use a 9/16 socket. Funny in this age Cub Cadet mostly still uses SAE nuts and bolts. Glad you go the job done.
thanks for you help
hope your repair went well
Hello, we want to sell these two lawn mower tensioners. Can you post a link? We can give you 10 sets of this product and give them to fans in a lottery to increase your number of fans.
Thank you for the very kind offer, but I am not interested at this time
@@richardspaulding5035 OK, thank you for your reply
@@richardspaulding5035 Thanks for your reply