I manage a Honda authorized repair shop and our standard procedure on a no start is to test for spark, if no spark unplug the low oil sensor and try again. If you do get spark check carb.
All these engines use contact to earth for not only protection circuits but also stop/kill switch. If there is no spark disconnect all swithces and protection circuits till you find the culprit
i got me a free honda generator/inverter that way, friend gave it to me, no fire, looed inside pull start cover the flywheel pads were rusty, i cleaned everything, still no fire, pulled the wires for the oil sensor, 1 pull fired right up. still have it 10 years later.
Not sure about your Honda, but they say sometimes the low oil sensor will get stuck to the base of the engine, causing it to not start until you disconnect it like you did and run the engine for 15 to 30 min and this should get the sensor unstuck, so then you can reconnect the sensor and it should start normally from then on.
Keep up the good work, good to see you sorted out the problem, as with previous comments I thought the rusty pick up on the flywheel was the problem, best advice for this motor sitting in that salty humid environment is to drown the whole engine in CRC, Aerostart is also a great friend to have around for cranky small motors, especially 2 stroke engines
Ooooh I know the frustration and niggling feeling of having an issue on your boat and cannot find the root of the problem. I had fresh water appearing in the bilge from somewhere and after 3 months of checking all fittings, all pipes (and I do mean following every single one), pumps and water heater etc. I finally found it was a hairline crack in the non-visible rear of the shower sump where it connects to the drain hose that only opened up when the sump pump was actuated. As it took days forthe water to accumulate then flow on to the visible bilge area only when heeling (sometimes days after the last shower) it was hard to put 2 and 2 together to pinpoint. GRRR
Well for a minute there i thought Mr. fixit wasn't going to be able to get it going after the cockadodledo bleep I figure you could use it as a back up anchor and then the crank and you saying t will tell you next week. I'm thinking oh hell no and scroll up the the time bar and see there is more time an thinking what tha then you finish the rest of the story. That was funny, mean but funny LOL Take care guys. Happy scuba diving.
Was a low oil shutoff the problem? I should watch til the end before posting lol, glad it was what I suspected ask me how I knew, Hahaha glad ya got it going.
For a second there I thought you were going to tell us you had done all the work for nothing, because it was just because you forgot to turn the switch on. Boy, glad that isn't the case. Be a hard one to admit on RUclips. Anyway, great job done, because you found it in the end.
I us a business card to set the gap. that flywheel needs a light coat of engine enamel to stop it rusting. try to use 95-98 fuel don't use lees than 95 fuel they don't like it and it doesn't like small motors. when cleaning the carby use oxy tip cleaning rods to clean in all jet holes. Low oil sensor can cause problems.
Heres where someones gonna say "dummy" (I was sure it was gonna be the switch). So get a oil sensor so the it can be changed next oil change. And chalk it up to an "edumication"
Clean the rust off the flywheel magnets. That will stop you every time. Also, there might be a filter in the bottom of your fuel tank that is plugged. Check for sheared woodruff key under the flywheel. Isn't there solid state ignition? That module may be bad.. Given the conditions that it is living in, I highly suspect Rusty magnets on the flywheel, as well as rust on your old Armature coil to. I wager that if you would have just cleaned the rust off you might not have had to buy that coil, LOL!
need to work on mechanical problems using the kiss system keep it simple stupid with means its usually something stupid this comes from i guy who has 40yrs of small engine out board jet ski motorcycle and drag racing this system will ensure no further time loss in diagnostics
I manage a Honda authorized repair shop and our standard procedure on a no start is to test for spark, if no spark unplug the low oil sensor and try again. If you do get spark check carb.
Bout jumped outa my chair when you said "tell you next week"! Thanks for sharing & nice job!
Lee, you are the rock solid foundation for your family.
Way to go Lee!
Persavation is the only way to go. Takes time and is frustrating, but usually pays off in the end. Nice going, enjoy your dives.
All these engines use contact to earth for not only protection circuits but also stop/kill switch. If there is no spark disconnect all swithces and protection circuits till you find the culprit
always good to have a win
Proper enjoyed that your the man Lee 👌
Bravo, way to go!!!
i got me a free honda generator/inverter that way, friend gave it to me, no fire, looed inside pull start cover the flywheel pads were rusty, i cleaned everything, still no fire, pulled the wires for the oil sensor, 1 pull fired right up. still have it 10 years later.
Not sure about your Honda, but they say sometimes the low oil sensor will get stuck to the base of the engine, causing it to not start until you disconnect it like you did and run the engine for 15 to 30 min and this should get the sensor unstuck, so then you can reconnect the sensor and it should start normally from then on.
Great job, Lee. I do the same thing when I disassemble; lay every part out in the order it was removed. You have the patients of Job! 👏👏
Keep up the good work, good to see you sorted out the problem, as with previous comments I thought the rusty pick up on the flywheel was the problem, best advice for this motor sitting in that salty humid environment is to drown the whole engine in CRC, Aerostart is also a great friend to have around for cranky small motors, especially 2 stroke engines
Ooooh I know the frustration and niggling feeling of having an issue on your boat and cannot find the root of the problem. I had fresh water appearing in the bilge from somewhere and after 3 months of checking all fittings, all pipes (and I do mean following every single one), pumps and water heater etc. I finally found it was a hairline crack in the non-visible rear of the shower sump where it connects to the drain hose that only opened up when the sump pump was actuated. As it took days forthe water to accumulate then flow on to the visible bilge area only when heeling (sometimes days after the last shower) it was hard to put 2 and 2 together to pinpoint. GRRR
Silicone spray helps prevent rust on Flywheel and magneto coil .
Don't forget to check low oil sensors
Well for a minute there i thought Mr. fixit wasn't going to be able to get it going after the cockadodledo bleep I figure you could use it as a back up anchor and then the crank and you saying t will tell you next week. I'm thinking oh hell no and scroll up the the time bar and see there is more time an thinking what tha then you finish the rest of the story. That was funny, mean but funny LOL Take care guys. Happy scuba diving.
Haha I couldn’t leave you hanging for a week 😜
Ha ha hah good job mate you had me going there at the end we had a Honda generator did the same bloody thing oil sensor switch🇦🇺🤙🤠🍻🍻🍻
So pleased you solved the problem, I would have been looking for a faulty ovelygromitwapperty sensor. Well done
Was a low oil shutoff the problem? I should watch til the end before posting lol, glad it was what I suspected ask me how I knew, Hahaha glad ya got it going.
You can say, at least you gave it a right good service anyway 😉👍
For a second there I thought you were going to tell us you had done all the work for nothing, because it was just because you forgot to turn the switch on. Boy, glad that isn't the case. Be a hard one to admit on RUclips. Anyway, great job done, because you found it in the end.
what a legend! nicely done
Sometimes it is the most obvious thing that we overlook. Take care you guys. Tell the kids that PopPop Terry says hi.
So now you have a spare coil for the dive compressor lol
❤️ Hope your all well.
A business card makes for a good gapping tool for that
I think Lee should start writing a book "101 Sailing tips and maintenance" he's sure has the experience to write one. Well done again Lee!
Yup the last one ☝️
Good job mate!
Thanks mate ☺️
Hi guys
Your friends in the cat, what type of tender have they got? Looks awesome
It’s designed by Matt our friend and was built in Indonesia made of aluminum ☺️
Could be a ground on shut off switch if no spark
Most of the time its always petrol or spark and occasionally something like a sensor that gives you grief.
All concreters ,roof painters now this from day dot man lol
Wow, I didn't know it had an oil sensor. But yes, anything electrical if you don't have any Spark.
I us a business card to set the gap. that flywheel needs a light coat of engine enamel to stop it rusting. try to use 95-98 fuel don't use lees than 95 fuel they don't like it and it doesn't like small motors. when cleaning the carby use oxy tip cleaning rods to clean in all jet holes. Low oil sensor can cause problems.
One should always remember to put gas/fuel in the engine before trying to start said engine. Hahahahaha!
Haha good advice 👍😜
Hi
Heres where someones gonna say "dummy" (I was sure it was gonna be the switch). So get a oil sensor so the it can be changed next oil change. And chalk it up to an "edumication"
Check the kill switch
They have a low oil cut off
Clean the rust off the flywheel magnets. That will stop you every time. Also, there might be a filter in the bottom of your fuel tank that is plugged.
Check for sheared woodruff key under the flywheel.
Isn't there solid state ignition? That module may be bad..
Given the conditions that it is living in, I highly suspect Rusty magnets on the flywheel, as well as rust on your old Armature coil to. I wager that if you would have just cleaned the rust off you might not have had to buy that coil, LOL!
Cheers for the feedback Ron
👍👍👍👍👍
If you stick your tongue on the spark plug to test it you’re guaranteed to get it to fire, county law as they say in the southern United States.
The real problem was that there was a nut loose. It worked when the nut found the real problem.
😂
Sand the fly wheel
Have you turned it on
Timing
need to work on mechanical problems using the kiss system keep it simple stupid with means its usually something stupid this comes from i guy who has 40yrs of small engine out board jet ski motorcycle and drag racing this system will ensure no further time loss in diagnostics