I do long exposures from the drone all the time. The best ones is shooting a busy highway and making it look like nobody is on it lol. Of course you need a really dark ND filter to do that though.
This is a really great video, Kris! I've just bought the Mavic 3 Pro and can't wait to experiment with this concept. Greetings from South Australia. 👋🦘
Yip agreed in general but using auto ISO is best. It is a myth to think that you have to use the lowest ISO possible that’s because most people don’t understand what ISO is! I’m a pro I am a nature and wildlife photographer Io always shoot in Manuel mode with autobiso I walk around with camera set up for action so example I’m shooting birds the ones that have feathers😅 I got my speed set at 2000/sec and my aperture open to the max and I’m shooting on auto ISO. If do the above you will never miss anything my shutter speed freezes the action my fast lense allows me to capture the image and the auto iso will automatically select the correct iso to match my Manuel settings and the pics are insanely amazing. All that ISO is the correct amount of light hitting your sensor for the settings that I have selected there is no grain or noise because the intelligence on your camera has selected the correct iso according my input of the shutter speed and the aperture. And the iso changes all the time because I point my camera at many different things! If had to always think of shooting at ISO 100 I will never get any action shots because it takes time to make changes and by the time u have u have lost the shot! My pics are amazing, they are not grainy or noisy because for what I am doing I need to freeze action with the high speed I have a fast lense for maximum aperture and background blur so my bird stands against the background as mostly I shoot early mornings and late afternoons where there is less light, and Auto ISO is what enables me to correctly expose for what I need the action to be! Use this technique and you go from hardly capturing anything to capturing a shit load of action. Ideally if u are using a drone for pro work you should have a pilot to fly the drone and photographer who can concentrate on what the subject select the correct Manuel settings for best results anything birds or action needs 2000/sec or more to freeze the action set your maximum aperture and set your drone to auto iso. Once you have mastered the photography understanding you can then do it all yourself because u know what u want ie you want to freeze the action input your settings manually for best results then u are ready for anything that appears in front of set Auto iso don’t worry about keeping your iso low because the camera will automatically select the correct iso in accordance with what u have personally selected to correctly expose with no noise or grain? If there is any grain like for example if you shout at 16000 iso and above you can select a limit for not shooting anything over 16000 iso that’s the limit I set as the colors change although you can correct this in post processing in photoshop. So personally my limit is nothing over 16000 iso as more work is required in post processing to bring the correct colours back as this is altered at over 16 000 iso always shoot raw as u can change a lot more in post processing. And recover a huge amount. Try this it works great most pro photographers understand what iso is once u have this understanding and see the results you will never miss the action’ test it so that u get to know it for yourself and see the amazing images that u can capture once u understand auto iso
THis is great! Ive been doing long exposure images with my Mavic 2 and 3 drones for a couple years, Here's a good tip to give your long exposures a whole new look as well....Turn your drone towards the ocean and frame up your shot, I sometime have more sand then water or more water then sand in the frame, Then use a long exposure with an ND filter, then with your drone, go full speed or at a safe speed either left or right, And as you are going to the left of right, Click the shutter button and BOOM!! You got some very interesting long exposures, Give it a try, Let me know how it goes?
You could take a still while not moving to get the subject sharp, then do motion blur image and blend them in photoshop. That way the parts you want sharp look good.
Super video! Have you tried this technique together with simple image stacking? shooting a few while hovering with faster speeds for sharpness, then switching to a lower shutter speed for the movement photos, then image stacking? I would love to try that!
Wow man, this video is awesome! I’m inspired not only to go create more content, but also to kickstart up my RUclips channel again. Thank you for this video dude, bloody incredible!! Can’t wait to see this video and your channel blow up in due time 🖤🤙🏻
You could try this with a moving subject moving at a constant speed so that the subject is focused and the surroundings aren’t. Something like a car, boat, train, bike etc.
So glad to find another Ak drone page. Looking forward to your content. Love this idea and can't wait to try the rivers in Idaho with this technique. Do you use a LUT on the photos or your personal color grading
Gonna give this a try today, looks really interesting..............one thing you might try to keep a straight line of flight is disabling sideways flight in the settings, at least that is what I do when I want to track straight down a railroad or river when filming. Coupled with disabling the sensors for this type of video it should make a smoother set of frames needing less stabilizing afterward.
I fly with as much natural light as possible. I keep everything as natural as possible. A large amount of people out there just want natural even with flaws..
Back when I was younger and great lenses and 35mm ruled I was big into rain at night photos with streaks and blurs, but for some reason I got away from that with digital, probably due to needing such expensive equipment to do it well. My preference with drones especially is video, especially parallax effects.
Alaska, drones, aerial photos and video? I'm in.... Drone pilot and retro film camera guy here in UK. 📸 Happy to add your channel, thank you for sharing.👍
I understand the concept is being able to take a shot looking down. But, if you could find a place to land, you could really go to town on this. Things have changed over the years. The basic rule on regular 35 mm camera was not to shoot at less than 1/60 of a second without a tripod. Digital cameras can do better now. Not sure how much or if at all whether you can control the shutter speed while taking video which would help create these effects for you.
How were you able to pull the RAW images in DJI Fly? Mine only pulls JPEG....which I hardly take photos in so I always have to pull the card and use my microsd card reader to pull the RAW images
What a ‘good’ idea…. Must give it a try with my Mini 4 Pro next time out. Good advice on a subject I didn’t think of. Amazing images / technique. Liked your approach so I’ve just subscribed and Liked 🏴
Great detailed video! Great Job man! The only downside for that is the risk to loose/break drone and don't forget to keep eye on it. And most Importantly make sure you have drone care (dji care) coverage in case of failure before doing it. Did crash drones before(on my channel), not fun when you don't have that extra coverage. Anyways, good content subscribed!
Yeah, and I would definitely recommend leaving the sensors off for the smoothest photo but thats just a risk you’d have to take I guess. (I’ve crashed Avata plenty of times) but when the sensors are on Mavic 3 Pro, it’s nearly impossible to crash
@@KrisLuckPhoto yeah, maybe I should have bought Mavic 3 pro instead of their latest and "greatest" mini 4 pro with 360 * obstacle sensors that I recently destroyed in the forest trail. Wondering if Mavic 3 pro would survive trail test. Mini 4 pro didn't....
@@slavavisuals The Mavic 3 sensors are really good from my experience. They can detect power lines, even when I'm flying during a snow storm. They also work quite well in low light conditions.
I found that flying towards large objects works better then flying alongside them if that makes sense, for example when you flew towards and away from the cliff only the centre frame was in focus and so you had motion blur in places that you didnt need it, the example is further proven when you flew over the grass at the end and the entire mountain range was in focus. BTW do you know what this technicque is called? just wondering if it has a name, as I have not seen it much, although I have done it with moving boats and moving cars a few times, it works really well but there is a sweet spot and you have to match the speed perfectly with the moving object.
I’ll have to give this a shot! And for the name i’m not sure, but in regular photography it’s called Panning shots. People take moving objects such as birds, planes, and cars and take slow shutter speed shots of them moving and the goal is the subject to be frozen while the background has motion blur
What the heck..........let's put a label on it and call them Zoomies.................like using a slow shutter with a zoom lens only better because the central area stays in focus if there is nothing moving there! Did my first one yesterday and it worked out great! Many thanks for the tutorial.
@@KrisLuckPhoto it's a compliment mate, he's a good guy! I've subbed to your channel, my line of work is drone photography and filming. Always on the look out for tips and ideas. Long exposures aren't not something I've done much of. 👍
I don't think this is new, I have been using this technique for over 30 years. Simple just change the shutter Speed to a lower number. Also, you can do this in AE with regular setting and change the shutter speed there as well, you get same effects but with more control. Also, you can use directional motion blur with masks.
I do long exposures from the drone all the time. The best ones is shooting a busy highway and making it look like nobody is on it lol. Of course you need a really dark ND filter to do that though.
Will try this with my ND1000👍🏽
Liminal highways look extra eerie.
Just found your great channel!
Love Kodiak and drones!
Very nice video and great images! 👍
very nice video :)
Thank you will try at Borrego springs in desert Friday with mavic3 pro
Really creative tutorial! I hadn't thought of this as an option until you showed me this.
Great video and thank you for the info!!
This is a really great video, Kris! I've just bought the Mavic 3 Pro and can't wait to experiment with this concept. Greetings from South Australia. 👋🦘
Nice pics ... thanks for sharing.
Excellent video, and great instruction about the shot. Very high production quality on your video too. Glad to have a new channel to follow!
This is pretty cool. Thankyou for sharing this! I cant wait to try it out!
New follower from Scotland, I only have a mini 2 but feel inspired I can get a shot or2 thankyou for not talking about editing in Lightroom, etc
Beautiful shots
Great video, thanks for the creative ideas.
Great job 🤜🤛!
Cool technique. Enjoyed watching this.✌️
Glad i found this. very cool.
This looks awesome I'm going to try this for sure
Thank you. subscribed your channel. you are a talented guy and deserves a great audience.
Yip agreed in general but using auto ISO is best. It is a myth to think that you have to use the lowest ISO possible that’s because most people don’t understand what ISO is! I’m a pro I am a nature and wildlife photographer Io always shoot in Manuel mode with autobiso I walk around with camera set up for action so example I’m shooting birds the ones that have feathers😅 I got my speed set at 2000/sec and my aperture open to the max and I’m shooting on auto ISO. If do the above you will never miss anything my shutter speed freezes the action my fast lense allows me to capture the image and the auto iso will automatically select the correct iso to match my Manuel settings and the pics are insanely amazing. All that ISO is the correct amount of light hitting your sensor for the settings that I have selected there is no grain or noise because the intelligence on your camera has selected the correct iso according my input of the shutter speed and the aperture. And the iso changes all the time because I point my camera at many different things! If had to always think of shooting at ISO 100 I will never get any action shots because it takes time to make changes and by the time u have u have lost the shot! My pics are amazing, they are not grainy or noisy because for what I am doing I need to freeze action with the high speed I have a fast lense for maximum aperture and background blur so my bird stands against the background as mostly I shoot early mornings and late afternoons where there is less light, and Auto ISO is what enables me to correctly expose for what I need the action to be! Use this technique and you go from hardly capturing anything to capturing a shit load of action. Ideally if u are using a drone for pro work you should have a pilot to fly the drone and photographer who can concentrate on what the subject select the correct Manuel settings for best results anything birds or action needs 2000/sec or more to freeze the action set your maximum aperture and set your drone to auto iso. Once you have mastered the photography understanding you can then do it all yourself because u know what u want ie you want to freeze the action input your settings manually for best results then u are ready for anything that appears in front of set Auto iso don’t worry about keeping your iso low because the camera will automatically select the correct iso in accordance with what u have personally selected to correctly expose with no noise or grain? If there is any grain like for example if you shout at 16000 iso and above you can select a limit for not shooting anything over 16000 iso that’s the limit I set as the colors change although you can correct this in post processing in photoshop. So personally my limit is nothing over 16000 iso as more work is required in post processing to bring the correct colours back as this is altered at over 16 000 iso always shoot raw as u can change a lot more in post processing. And recover a huge amount. Try this it works great most pro photographers understand what iso is once u have this understanding and see the results you will never miss the action’ test it so that u get to know it for yourself and see the amazing images that u can capture once u understand auto iso
THis is great! Ive been doing long exposure images with my Mavic 2 and 3 drones for a couple years, Here's a good tip to give your long exposures a whole new look as well....Turn your drone towards the ocean and frame up your shot, I sometime have more sand then water or more water then sand in the frame, Then use a long exposure with an ND filter, then with your drone, go full speed or at a safe speed either left or right, And as you are going to the left of right, Click the shutter button and BOOM!! You got some very interesting long exposures, Give it a try, Let me know how it goes?
Cool. Thanks.
Been doing long exposure photos for the last month. will probably doing this for the next month.
Such a good video.
Kris this is dope.
Bro.. yes. Love the mood and vibes here. Subbed 🔥
You could take a still while not moving to get the subject sharp, then do motion blur image and blend them in photoshop. That way the parts you want sharp look good.
Great video man!!! I never thought of moving the drone while shooting long exposure 😮
Tank for a great tip!
Great idea, thanks. You could put the drone in cruise control and then take pics? Would that help keep the background sharp?
6:33 using cruise control on a slower speed would help keep it steady
Love it
I use ND filters and cruise control
Amazing video very inspiring
Super cool!
Definitely giving it a try today! Thanks! And that drone is sweet! 135 must be nice eh. Major awesomeness
Super video! Have you tried this technique together with simple image stacking? shooting a few while hovering with faster speeds for sharpness, then switching to a lower shutter speed for the movement photos, then image stacking? I would love to try that!
cruse control would help. Tweak speed to find sweet spot
Great content, keep it up!
Nice drone 😍😍👍
Thank you 👍
@@KrisLuckPhoto wc... 🙏🙏
Great images, have you tried taking a shot of your scene so you get your background sharp, and then flying away. Then merge your two images together.
Wow man, this video is awesome! I’m inspired not only to go create more content, but also to kickstart up my RUclips channel again. Thank you for this video dude, bloody incredible!! Can’t wait to see this video and your channel blow up in due time 🖤🤙🏻
You could try this with a moving subject moving at a constant speed so that the subject is focused and the surroundings aren’t. Something like a car, boat, train, bike etc.
So glad to find another Ak drone page. Looking forward to your content.
Love this idea and can't wait to try the rivers in Idaho with this technique.
Do you use a LUT on the photos or your personal color grading
Gonna give this a try today, looks really interesting..............one thing you might try to keep a straight line of flight is disabling sideways flight in the settings, at least that is what I do when I want to track straight down a railroad or river when filming. Coupled with disabling the sensors for this type of video it should make a smoother set of frames needing less stabilizing afterward.
New follower, I live in Fairbanks for 10 years in the early 60s
Awesome trick
You could also stack a few of these photos in PS align and change blend to median (I think it’s median)
No ND filter iin the uk fllymore kit. Just bought one and not included.
Cruise control would be a good thing to use here.
Are you ever concerned that flying that low to the water the drone might get confused and go into landing mode?
Any advice or tips on this?
I fly with as much natural light as possible. I keep everything as natural as possible. A large amount of people out there just want natural even with flaws..
Back when I was younger and great lenses and 35mm ruled I was big into rain at night photos with streaks and blurs, but for some reason I got away from that with digital, probably due to needing such expensive equipment to do it well. My preference with drones especially is video, especially parallax effects.
Cruise control can help achieve this too
Which luts are you using
Alaska, drones, aerial photos and video? I'm in....
Drone pilot and retro film camera guy here in UK. 📸
Happy to add your channel, thank you for sharing.👍
Thank you!! Welcome to the channel!
Nice! Is there a reason, why you don't use the cruise control for stable speed?
I didnt think about that for this!
I understand the concept is being able to take a shot looking down. But, if you could find a place to land, you could really go to town on this.
Things have changed over the years. The basic rule on regular 35 mm camera was not to shoot at less than 1/60 of a second without a tripod. Digital cameras can do better now.
Not sure how much or if at all whether you can control the shutter speed while taking video which would help create these effects for you.
The waves are moving to the side that’s why it’s not straight like it would be in say a grass field. 👍🏽
Thanks
I’m inspired!
Hike pyramid on Satuday with me for a vid 😉
@@KrisLuckPhoto very possible! Let stay in touch.
How were you able to pull the RAW images in DJI Fly? Mine only pulls JPEG....which I hardly take photos in so I always have to pull the card and use my microsd card reader to pull the RAW images
I import the memory card on to the computer. I wish the app was more user friendly for transferring images
Thank you love you handsome❤
What a ‘good’ idea…. Must give it a try with my Mini 4 Pro next time out. Good advice on a subject I didn’t think of. Amazing images / technique. Liked your approach so I’ve just subscribed and Liked 🏴
Glad it was helpful!
Great detailed video! Great Job man! The only downside for that is the risk to loose/break drone and don't forget to keep eye on it. And most Importantly make sure you have drone care (dji care) coverage in case of failure before doing it. Did crash drones before(on my channel), not fun when you don't have that extra coverage. Anyways, good content subscribed!
Yeah, and I would definitely recommend leaving the sensors off for the smoothest photo but thats just a risk you’d have to take I guess. (I’ve crashed Avata plenty of times) but when the sensors are on Mavic 3 Pro, it’s nearly impossible to crash
@@KrisLuckPhoto yeah, maybe I should have bought Mavic 3 pro instead of their latest and "greatest" mini 4 pro with 360 * obstacle sensors that I recently destroyed in the forest trail. Wondering if Mavic 3 pro would survive trail test. Mini 4 pro didn't....
@@slavavisuals The Mavic 3 sensors are really good from my experience. They can detect power lines, even when I'm flying during a snow storm. They also work quite well in low light conditions.
We need an external apperture. It must be possible
Get some Kodiak bears.
I found that flying towards large objects works better then flying alongside them if that makes sense, for example when you flew towards and away from the cliff only the centre frame was in focus and so you had motion blur in places that you didnt need it, the example is further proven when you flew over the grass at the end and the entire mountain range was in focus.
BTW do you know what this technicque is called? just wondering if it has a name, as I have not seen it much, although I have done it with moving boats and moving cars a few times, it works really well but there is a sweet spot and you have to match the speed perfectly with the moving object.
I’ll have to give this a shot! And for the name i’m not sure, but in regular photography it’s called Panning shots. People take moving objects such as birds, planes, and cars and take slow shutter speed shots of them moving and the goal is the subject to be frozen while the background has motion blur
What the heck..........let's put a label on it and call them Zoomies.................like using a slow shutter with a zoom lens only better because the central area stays in focus if there is nothing moving there! Did my first one yesterday and it worked out great! Many thanks for the tutorial.
I am pretty sure Fly More Mini kits do not include ND filters. I wish they did.
ahh, must be the air and pro series then.
Are you related to Ed Sheeran? Uncanny likeness. Good video BTW.
Haha, I’ve gotten that quite a bit
@@KrisLuckPhoto it's a compliment mate, he's a good guy! I've subbed to your channel, my line of work is drone photography and filming. Always on the look out for tips and ideas. Long exposures aren't not something I've done much of. 👍
България! Тук ли сме?????????
I don't think this is new, I have been using this technique for over 30 years. Simple just change the shutter Speed to a lower number. Also, you can do this in AE with regular setting and change the shutter speed there as well, you get same effects but with more control. Also, you can use directional motion blur with masks.
Yeah he says that.
The title is definitely click bait but the shots aren't bad.
It works well at night 🌉