Great video Matt and it is so true on how we start out and progress thru our selection of belts as we grow. Love my Cubitrons and Trizacts that I get from Cliff.
I've been using the "1 x 30 - 1200 X16 U936 Norax Ceramic Engineered Abrasive" from Tru-Grit for years...I love them...great for most blades that only need sharpening with no chip or tip repairs....but they do work well for minor repairs if you don't want to change belts a lot...very nice clean edge...knock the burr off and go straight to strop. or polish it up on a stone before strop for a nice semi polished edge
@@robertmunguia250 yes they are, I was kinda disappointed in video ....no mention that 3m is who makes the cubitron belts. If you want a really good source look at rs Hughes they are practically thr largest 3m distributors in country ....they also had a very large selection of 3m trizact belts as well
Neat you mention cliff curry. I've learned considerably from him on a facebook group. And many others on the group as well. Learned he made belts and came to the same conclusion as you. I'll spend my money there. My friend keeps wanting me to order combat abrasives. I'm not interested in that. My order should arrive this weekend from cliffs shop.
wow awesome!!! i had never even heard of cubitron. i have been watching curry custom cutlery for a while, he is awesome. im glad to see sharpeners working together. i may not be a fan of the belt sander but that man is an artist with those.
top shelf outlook towards your consumption habits. On another note, you've just about got me talked into purchasing a 1x30 and some cubitron belts. Great commentary
Do you recommend leather or felt for stropping if you had to only choose one? Does felt need a diamond spray or can you use regular stick type compound?
We had a great conversation around this question on our July live sharpening event in the Guild. There are so many ways to do it and there is no single best way. At this time I'm finishing on untreated leather hanging strop.
I just found this channel and I've been working only on Tormek for knife sharpening but it takes a long time. I see that belts work faster but how to you get precise with your angles and do you like belts better than wheels?
If you're proficient on the Tormek use it to calibrate your hand on a belt by cutting a bevel at a known angle, painting it with sharpie, then trying to match it by hand on a belt. The first time you'll be off a bit, after 100 you'll have it surprisingly dialed in. I'm still learning and exploring, as we all should be, but I currently like belts better than wheels. Thanks for watching.
Great question, sorry I didn't clarify this in the video: The Cubitrons are best suited for material removal e.g. forming new bevels and repairing damage. I recommend checking out Trizacts for bevel and edge refinement.
Have you had an issue with static shock? Mine does and drives me crazy. I've added a static wrist strap and attached it to the poor on the front of the motor, big difference and sure makes me feel safer while sharpening. Thanks for the video.
Usually when a high quality knife goes dull very soon after sharpening it's because the burr, either wire edge or foil, depending on which direction you use to sharpen (edge leading or trailing) has not been fully removed. Sounds like the burr is rolling over after a few uses.
Very helpful belt information since I'm considering buying a 1x30 grinder to go with my KO Work Sharp. I'm considering the Grizzly variable speed model which appears to be just like the Rikon variable speed, or maybe the HF 1x30 and upgrade the motor later. Any suggestion as to which one, or is there another model I should consider for less than $200? Thanks.
seen a few videos on you tube and some people want to condemn belt sharpening. The say stones is the way to go. Is there any flaws on belt sharpening? Just got one from harbor freight 1 by 30 also. I don't want to go the wrong way.
Yeah, people get pretty worked up in this space. The issue with belts (or pretty much any dry grinding application) is that it can heat up the steel and if that gets out of control than you can damage the heat treatment of the blade. Belts are fine if used correctly. Check out my first Hot Tip Tuesday for how I make sure I don't overheat the knives I work on. ruclips.net/video/t55CEdbhuBg/видео.html
I'm currently doing the 120 Cubitron followed by the Trizact A45 then the Trizact A16 and then leather. I hope that helps, but there is no perfect progression so please go forward with a willingness to explore and try new things.
@capnmatt41 thank you for,the reply. I usually use either only 2 or three progressions myself for thi gs like steak knives and maybe some cutlery, but for pocket knife I will go one step further. I have a leather belt for my 1x30 (which I'm thinking of getting a "low speed 1x30" just for knives- our harbor freight is a bit too fast I think, and I'm not handy enough to convert motor to variable) does a really nice job stopping, and gets the knives plenty sharp for how we use our kitchen knives. I don't mind the edge being a bit jagged as 2-3 progression steps make the knives still plenty sharp for our needs. I will check those belts you mentioned out. I've been using regular sanding belts in the finer grains, and they seem to lose their grit pretty quickly- even with fairly light touch.
Just curious as to the model of 1x30 you use now and if it’s a different model than the one you started with. I’ve been driven away by all the negative info out there stating that a 1x30 is a poor choice in belt grinder; and the money spent would be better used purchasing a a larger machine whether that be a 1x40 or 2x40 etc. Having said that; I understand most of these people are implying the machine would be used for stock removal as well. My primary use for the grinder would be sharpening and maybe some light stock removal occasionally if it made sense in terms of efficiency. I’ve had two grinders in my cart for 6 months now and can’t seem to pull the trigger fearing that I will have purchased one I’ll regret in a few months time. I do most of my sharpening on an old sportsman model WE with diamond stones; and for recurves and abnormal blades I use my KME. I am interested in moving up from personal sharpening and sharpening for coworkers and friends to turning it into some extra hobby money.
There's plenty of belt in a 1x30 but it's not uncommon for us humans to want more. My favorite one based on working with the members of the Guild is the Rikon variable speed. The one I run is the Grizzly fixed speed. Some guys seem to be happy with the Harbor Freight ones. My tendency is to try to get into the highest quality tool I can for tools I'll be using often. If you do want to improve your sharpening skills and then learn how to monetize that skill there's no better place than the Guild of Professional Sharpeners. Thanks for watching, hope it helps. -Matt
The 1 X 30 is a great little machine as long as you understand its limitations...the one I use is just a basic Central Machinery brand from Harbor Freight...it's been a surprisingly robust machine considering the source...lol....it's perfect for sharpening and general workshop applications where you don't need a lot of power...as far as bladesmithing goes, it will get you started with the eventual goal of getting something bigger and more powerful.
I've bought a bunch of belts from Cliff. Cliff is a legend and an inspiration.
Man, you just get it! Support the small people that are local and/or the small business that offers the superior product!
Thank you!
As usual, a good video! Matt, your contribution to sharpeners seeking ideas is large. Thank you.
Thanks Gary! I appreciate your kind comment.
Thanks for the video. It got me motivated to buy silicon carbide
Great video Matt and it is so true on how we start out and progress thru our selection of belts as we grow. Love my Cubitrons and Trizacts that I get from Cliff.
Heck ya, Randy.
Who's clip how can I find them
These Cubitron Belts sound fantastic. Thanks, Matt.
You bet, Phil!
I've been using the "1 x 30 - 1200 X16 U936 Norax Ceramic Engineered Abrasive" from Tru-Grit for years...I love them...great for most blades that only need sharpening with no chip or tip repairs....but they do work well for minor repairs if you don't want to change belts a lot...very nice clean edge...knock the burr off and go straight to strop. or polish it up on a stone before strop for a nice semi polished edge
I’ll try that belt! Thanks for sharing!
@Robert Munguia if you do try them, try buying a decent supply because there was rumors Norton was discontinuing the Norax line
@@fldiverjc4496 yeah I bought about about 6 of them. I’ll see if I can get a little more. Trizact woodworker belts are nice too. Called gator belts.
@@robertmunguia250 yes they are, I was kinda disappointed in video ....no mention that 3m is who makes the cubitron belts.
If you want a really good source look at rs Hughes they are practically thr largest 3m distributors in country ....they also had a very large selection of 3m trizact belts as well
@@fldiverjc4496 ok thanks for info!
Thank you for the info. (just bought my first belt from Curry Custom Cutlery)
Dig it! Perfect timing. I was just looking at my very thin stack of 1x30 belts.
Right on, Brad! If you try them out let me know how you like them.
@@capnmatt41 will do, man. 👍🏻
Neat you mention cliff curry. I've learned considerably from him on a facebook group. And many others on the group as well. Learned he made belts and came to the same conclusion as you. I'll spend my money there. My friend keeps wanting me to order combat abrasives. I'm not interested in that. My order should arrive this weekend from cliffs shop.
Good information
Thanks
wow awesome!!! i had never even heard of cubitron. i have been watching curry custom cutlery for a while, he is awesome. im glad to see sharpeners working together. i may not be a fan of the belt sander but that man is an artist with those.
Thanks Steve!
I couldnt agree more about spending your Money on your Community and knowing it's going to a good place/Person.
Thanks Greg, yeah, it's a big deal in my opinion.
top shelf outlook towards your consumption habits. On another note, you've just about got me talked into purchasing a 1x30 and some cubitron belts. Great commentary
Appreciate your kind comment. I try not to talk anyone into anything, just make options known, but if you run with a 1x30 I hope you dig it!
Wildly helpful, thank you so much!!
Glad it helped
What kind of wheel is that at 6:40 ?
Yes Curry Cutlery the best in supplies.
Do you recommend leather or felt for stropping if you had to only choose one? Does felt need a diamond spray or can you use regular stick type compound?
We had a great conversation around this question on our July live sharpening event in the Guild. There are so many ways to do it and there is no single best way. At this time I'm finishing on untreated leather hanging strop.
I just found this channel and I've been working only on Tormek for knife sharpening but it takes a long time. I see that belts work faster but how to you get precise with your angles and do you like belts better than wheels?
If you're proficient on the Tormek use it to calibrate your hand on a belt by cutting a bevel at a known angle, painting it with sharpie, then trying to match it by hand on a belt. The first time you'll be off a bit, after 100 you'll have it surprisingly dialed in.
I'm still learning and exploring, as we all should be, but I currently like belts better than wheels.
Thanks for watching.
@@capnmatt41 great advice, thanks.
Can you strop with the back side of an old sanding belt?
I have a 1x30 belt sander, and am ready to try the Cubitron... but they only show 50 grit, 80 grit, and 120 grit. Am I missing something?
Great question, sorry I didn't clarify this in the video:
The Cubitrons are best suited for material removal e.g. forming new bevels and repairing damage.
I recommend checking out Trizacts for bevel and edge refinement.
Have you had an issue with static shock? Mine does and drives me crazy. I've added a static wrist strap and attached it to the poor on the front of the motor, big difference and sure makes me feel safer while sharpening.
Thanks for the video.
Yup!
ruclips.net/video/gXo5OUfYUto/видео.html
"...I don't necessarily eat the flowers." 😂 Thanks for this video and many other practical ones that help fellow sharpeners out there.
Thanks man!
I love how fast the belts sharpen, but my knives dull soooooo quick. I mean higher quality sv30 steel goes from razor sharp to fairly dull in no time.
Usually when a high quality knife goes dull very soon after sharpening it's because the burr, either wire edge or foil, depending on which direction you use to sharpen (edge leading or trailing) has not been fully removed. Sounds like the burr is rolling over after a few uses.
If you had to choose one, would you go with the 1x30 belt sander, or would you go with the ken onion sander?
I hear you man, but this is one of those 'it depends' questions.
Very helpful belt information since I'm considering buying a 1x30 grinder to go with my KO Work Sharp. I'm considering the Grizzly variable speed model which appears to be just like the Rikon variable speed, or maybe the HF 1x30 and upgrade the motor later. Any suggestion as to which one, or is there another model I should consider for less than $200? Thanks.
I like the Rikon because it has a higher Hp motor, but it's a little over $200 I think.
Grizzly is a good tool.
Glad it helped, thanks!
seen a few videos on you tube and some people want to condemn belt sharpening. The say stones is the way to go. Is there any flaws on belt sharpening? Just got one from harbor freight 1 by 30 also. I don't want to go the wrong way.
Yeah, people get pretty worked up in this space.
The issue with belts (or pretty much any dry grinding application) is that it can heat up the steel and if that gets out of control than you can damage the heat treatment of the blade.
Belts are fine if used correctly. Check out my first Hot Tip Tuesday for how I make sure I don't overheat the knives I work on.
ruclips.net/video/t55CEdbhuBg/видео.html
Hi there,
the purchase contact for cubitron belts does not exist (any more ?)
Thank you, I updated the link.
I ordered belts almost a month ago, was curious about shipping times, I guess they are coming from Hawaii so. Thanks
Definitely reach out to Cliff with any issues. His contact info is on his website.
so what is the progression? 120 cubitron, then which belts after that? what type and grits?
I'm currently doing the 120 Cubitron followed by the Trizact A45 then the Trizact A16 and then leather.
I hope that helps, but there is no perfect progression so please go forward with a willingness to explore and try new things.
@capnmatt41 thank you for,the reply. I usually use either only 2 or three progressions myself for thi gs like steak knives and maybe some cutlery, but for pocket knife I will go one step further. I have a leather belt for my 1x30 (which I'm thinking of getting a "low speed 1x30" just for knives- our harbor freight is a bit too fast I think, and I'm not handy enough to convert motor to variable) does a really nice job stopping, and gets the knives plenty sharp for how we use our kitchen knives. I don't mind the edge being a bit jagged as 2-3 progression steps make the knives still plenty sharp for our needs. I will check those belts you mentioned out. I've been using regular sanding belts in the finer grains, and they seem to lose their grit pretty quickly- even with fairly light touch.
Just curious as to the model of 1x30 you use now and if it’s a different model than the one you started with. I’ve been driven away by all the negative info out there stating that a 1x30 is a poor choice in belt grinder; and the money spent would be better used purchasing a a larger machine whether that be a 1x40 or 2x40 etc. Having said that; I understand most of these people are implying the machine would be used for stock removal as well. My primary use for the grinder would be sharpening and maybe some light stock removal occasionally if it made sense in terms of efficiency. I’ve had two grinders in my cart for 6 months now and can’t seem to pull the trigger fearing that I will have purchased one I’ll regret in a few months time.
I do most of my sharpening on an old sportsman model WE with diamond stones; and for recurves and abnormal blades I use my KME. I am interested in moving up from personal sharpening and sharpening for coworkers and friends to turning it into some extra hobby money.
There's plenty of belt in a 1x30 but it's not uncommon for us humans to want more.
My favorite one based on working with the members of the Guild is the Rikon variable speed.
The one I run is the Grizzly fixed speed.
Some guys seem to be happy with the Harbor Freight ones. My tendency is to try to get into the highest quality tool I can for tools I'll be using often.
If you do want to improve your sharpening skills and then learn how to monetize that skill there's no better place than the Guild of Professional Sharpeners.
Thanks for watching, hope it helps. -Matt
@@capnmatt41 thanks for replying sir! I’ve decided to go with the 1x30 grizzly over the Kalamazoo model I was looking at. Thanks for your help!
The 1 X 30 is a great little machine as long as you understand its limitations...the one I use is just a basic Central Machinery brand from Harbor Freight...it's been a surprisingly robust machine considering the source...lol....it's perfect for sharpening and general workshop applications where you don't need a lot of power...as far as bladesmithing goes, it will get you started with the eventual goal of getting something bigger and more powerful.
Nice
Will aluminum oxide cause galvanic corrosion?
Galvanic corrosion is the transfer of electrons between 2 dissimilar metals in an electrolytic solution.
Does that help?
I just got my belts from cliff yesterday, havent tried them yet.
Excellent. I'm sure you'll love them.
Nice! You have a link for that Kubitron?
In the video description.
@@capnmatt41 just purchased thanks!
Is there anything you would recommend in the 1000+ grit range for super fine polishing?
Trizact
That's it no demo ?
I have a lot of videos on my channel of belt sharpening, maybe this one would help?
ruclips.net/video/TmEoWD2ipLg/видео.html
“You get as much life out of as you can, because you’re cheap”. Who told you about me?