I know I'm replying to an old comment but this will save some people some money. You can buy a boost MAC solenoid model 35A-AAA-DDBA-1BA instead of the AEM solenoid. MAC actually makes the solenoid, AEM just put their sticker on it and charges 3x more for it.
Great video. Even though you repeated alot of the same, it helps people to understand. Also great to know how they work and what they do when they fail or act up. Alot of times people hear clicking like you said and figure it's good. High five on bench testing. Alot of what we do is bench test. That's how our shop differs from most. We now have several test stations in our shop.
@TheProPilot I'm pretty sure you are talking about wastegates just differnet kinds. I think you are talking about the actuator valve that opens the flapper on an internally wastegated turbo, the other kind is if you have an external wastegate setup. But i did the check because no matter how much i lowered the boost i would hit 30+psi.
@TXGREASER I had if for a little over 2 years before it failed so either you hook it up will work, i would recommend installing it per the external wastegate diagram if you have an external wastegate. If you hook it up as if you have an internal, the boost may drop instad of holding steady, my boost would fall from 33 to 27.
My boost controller does not seem to be working anymore to control the boost. The turbo just is running at full boost. I’m thinking it’s the solenoid. Is that a symptom of a bad one?
Hey redi. Turns out my solenoid is just fine. For some reason the black wire isnt grounded well. I grounded the wire to a different source as well as hooked it up to the black wire coming from the gauge but now im gerring an error. Any thoughts?
Good info because someone might do the "click" test and determine the solenoid was good. But in reality, it is not good as shown by your "flow" test. Well done.
Hi I have the mac 3 port valve and it makes a buzzing sound when I put car in accessory before starting the car i thougt maybe I got thr wires flipped but still does it
I have the same solenoid. I have a problem with it. When I turn my ignition on, the solenoid is vibrant. I don't know how and why that happened. Does that mean I had a bad one?
@@Na_ta_shi duty cycle? Can you explain a little more… what I did do is I tried reversing the wires, that didn’t help. Tried an exact same solenoid just in case this one was faulty, that didn’t work. So I put back in the original solenoid from Hyundai … that also ticks constantly!? Doesn’t seem normal to me… but I’m no expert..
I'm wondering if my solenoid is bad. My controller seems to hold and control boost in the low RPMs but as soon as I get up passed 7K it starts creeping. I don't have a tru boost but I do have a mac solenoid
You can take it apart for the most part but I don't think you can reach the actual blocked area to clean it. Probably best to just buy a new one. Someone on here gave the part number to the actual manufacturer who makes the part not AEM who mark up the price significantly. The information he gave was: "You can buy a boost MAC solenoid model 35A-AAA-DDBA-1BA instead of the AEM solenoid. MAC actually makes the solenoid, AEM just put their sticker on it and charges 3x more for it."
I know I'm replying to an old comment but this will save some people some money. You can buy a boost MAC solenoid model 35A-AAA-DDBA-1BA instead of the AEM solenoid. MAC actually makes the solenoid, AEM just put their sticker on it and charges 3x more for it.
Wow, I haven't really paid attention to this video. I'm so glad it helped so many people.
Thank you. You helped me start the diagnostic process on my car.
Great video. Even though you repeated alot of the same, it helps people to understand. Also great to know how they work and what they do when they fail or act up. Alot of times people hear clicking like you said and figure it's good. High five on bench testing. Alot of what we do is bench test. That's how our shop differs from most. We now have several test stations in our shop.
really helpful. couldn't find an explanation on how these work anywhere.
@TheProPilot I'm pretty sure you are talking about wastegates just differnet kinds. I think you are talking about the actuator valve that opens the flapper on an internally wastegated turbo, the other kind is if you have an external wastegate setup. But i did the check because no matter how much i lowered the boost i would hit 30+psi.
@TXGREASER I had if for a little over 2 years before it failed so either you hook it up will work, i would recommend installing it per the external wastegate diagram if you have an external wastegate. If you hook it up as if you have an internal, the boost may drop instad of holding steady, my boost would fall from 33 to 27.
Still helped in 2021 😂😂 thanks man
My boost controller does not seem to be working anymore to control the boost. The turbo just is running at full boost. I’m thinking it’s the solenoid. Is that a symptom of a bad one?
Hey redi. Turns out my solenoid is just fine. For some reason the black wire isnt grounded well. I grounded the wire to a different source as well as hooked it up to the black wire coming from the gauge but now im gerring an error. Any thoughts?
Good info because someone might do the "click" test and determine the solenoid was good. But in reality, it is not good as shown by your "flow" test. Well done.
Just happened to me.. ive been chasing this boost issue for months
Hi I have the mac 3 port valve and it makes a buzzing sound when I put car in accessory before starting the car i thougt maybe I got thr wires flipped but still does it
The unit works regardless of polarity. The sounds on power up are from the built in self test from the sending unit.
@jjrock5 Yeah the solenod alone was $90 it works good though.
Did this happen with a bad solenoid or not having the lines hooked up correctly?
I have the same solenoid. I have a problem with it. When I turn my ignition on, the solenoid is vibrant. I don't know how and why that happened. Does that mean I had a bad one?
I have a MAC on my Veloster. Turbo... just installed.... not sure if its a problem but its constantly clicking even at idle... is this normal??
It's the duty cycle.
@@Na_ta_shi duty cycle? Can you explain a little more… what I did do is I tried reversing the wires, that didn’t help. Tried an exact same solenoid just in case this one was faulty, that didn’t work. So I put back in the original solenoid from Hyundai … that also ticks constantly!? Doesn’t seem normal to me… but I’m no expert..
@@Paulieman20 did you ever figure out this issue?
Great test, thank you.
What was your symptom that you checked it? Isn't that the port for an actuator valve not a wastegate?
i just bought mine for my dsm i hope it works right,.
These seem to be the same thing as many many different brands. Also possibly ARK Innovations.
I'm wondering if my solenoid is bad. My controller seems to hold and control boost in the low RPMs but as soon as I get up passed 7K it starts creeping. I don't have a tru boost but I do have a mac solenoid
I'm meant to be boosting 22psi but I'm only getting 14 at the moment. Could a broken solenoid be causing this?
I'm having this same exact issue. Did you ever find the problem?
are both cables on max solenoid connected to 12 v to activate it ?
no, one ground
When my solenoid is energized the side and front ports are connected. Does this mean mine is bad? I cant get the sides to work.
Means there is a blockage.
what does it mean if it doesn't read my boost psi but all the functions work
+Samira Farah Probably means the boost source on the back of the gauge is blocked or not attached to a vac/boost port
THAT WAS HELPFUL. THANKS...
very nice im gonna try this
Anyway to take it a part to fix? Or time for a new 1?
You can take it apart for the most part but I don't think you can reach the actual blocked area to clean it. Probably best to just buy a new one. Someone on here gave the part number to the actual manufacturer who makes the part not AEM who mark up the price significantly. The information he gave was: "You can buy a boost MAC solenoid model 35A-AAA-DDBA-1BA instead of the AEM solenoid. MAC actually makes the solenoid, AEM just put their sticker on it and charges 3x more for it."
Awesome thanks. Great video btw
redi4axion
my aem also failed i went with a replacement mac is 1/4 of the price just cant pay 3/4 more for a aem sticker on it haha
nice video very helpful
good video this help me
when I turn on my switch and my car star doing long noise this is normal
are these solenoids polarity sensitive?
spiderman1321 nah, they can go on either way.
great , thanks
I'd buy one but they're so expensive.
maybe you should stop slamming them on the table and they might work for longer.. jesus its even ear rape
Hahahaha that noise
Durrrr durrr durrrrrrrrppp durr.