So girts are screwed through the insulation into the gifts on the other side without crimping the insulation? What type of material could you use right over the insulation instead of using the extra girts on top of it? Would one just screw right through this material through the insulation into the girts on the other side? Thanks thoughtful explanations.
Girts only attach to posts. It's very traditional pole barn method with vertical posts and horizontal girts nailed to post faces. The insulation is sandwiched between girts (with no pressure/compression) and there is no thermal bridging across the wall bays. This is all shown in later videos from the project where interior girts and wall board are installed. You could instead do bookshelf girts that go inside the bays between posts and provide simultaneous nailing for interior and exterior siding/facing, but then you create a lot of thermal bridging and hurt the insulation performance. If you just want to cover the insulation and don't need a surface that is finished, flat, hard, or load bearing, you can use unfaced insulation and then put some sort of vapor barrier product with a pleasing appearance on top. I have seen people used white plastic and it looks good.
I have a 50 x 40 pole barn with a metal exterior. It is not insulated and does not have house wrap on it. I have been bouncing back and forth on either foam board or just that double sided foil Insulation. I live in PA so standard NE weather. Shop is brutal in the summer and freezing in the winter. Any advice?
The bubble foil is just a radiant barrier that will help reduce the effects of outside temperature influence a little, but it has almost no insulating value. It is not suitable if you ever want to heat/cool the building. It will give you a few degrees relief from outside temperature effects. If you are looking for more than that, go with a proper insulation product. Foam is great but very expensive. Fiberglass is usually a better value. If you can find pole-barn specific fiberglass batts or rolls, it will make the job go way quicker. It's usually 4' wide and optionally comes with a vinyl facing for the interior side. If you have a Menards nearby, they usually carry that stuff or can order it.
Ever looked at Trusscore? Seems to be a modular, corrugated PVC product. They appear to market to residential, commercial, and agriculture markets.I have not seen it or used it but vaguely recall a Matt Risinger video about it.
House wrap is mainly intended to manage moisture transfer through walls that are permeable. Won't help much with metal since it doesn't breathe (which is one reason you can have condensation problems with metal).
You mentioned the wall sheathing resting on the bottom interior girt which subsequently transfers to the concrete floor. What if the concrete floor isn't level/flat in some areas? The Girt is now fully supporting? Does this situation change based on using 2x girts over 1x girts? Did you space your girts at 16 o.c.? Finally did you compare cost of pressure treated or combo of not-treated and a sill seal product? These videos have been great, thank you for your time and effort.
My girts are spaced 24", but the bottom rests on the sloped concrete floor so it deviates from that spacing a bit (floor slopes at around 1/8" per foot). KD and PT costs the same (within 20-30 cents) right now for a 2x4x8 so it was no big deal to go with PT on the bottom. If your bottom girt doesn't rest on the floor then all the girts should be sized to support the interior wall material load (1x girts may still be fine).
@@Lumber_Jack Thank you, how would one size the girts? If I want walls for a wood shop where I don’t want to worry how much weight is on wall would it be a better design to use trad 2x4 16 oc wall design?
Sadly no one gets their money back upon resale for an elaborately built barn structure.
How about milling your pine lumber for the siding and having it kiln dried to speed up the process?
So girts are screwed through the insulation into the gifts on the other side without crimping the insulation? What type of material could you use right over the insulation instead of using the extra girts on top of it? Would one just screw right through this material through the insulation into the girts on the other side?
Thanks thoughtful explanations.
Girts only attach to posts. It's very traditional pole barn method with vertical posts and horizontal girts nailed to post faces. The insulation is sandwiched between girts (with no pressure/compression) and there is no thermal bridging across the wall bays. This is all shown in later videos from the project where interior girts and wall board are installed.
You could instead do bookshelf girts that go inside the bays between posts and provide simultaneous nailing for interior and exterior siding/facing, but then you create a lot of thermal bridging and hurt the insulation performance.
If you just want to cover the insulation and don't need a surface that is finished, flat, hard, or load bearing, you can use unfaced insulation and then put some sort of vapor barrier product with a pleasing appearance on top. I have seen people used white plastic and it looks good.
@@Lumber_JackI see it now. My wife is the man of the house but I’m trying lol
I have a 50 x 40 pole barn with a metal exterior. It is not insulated and does not have house wrap on it. I have been bouncing back and forth on either foam board or just that double sided foil Insulation. I live in PA so standard NE weather. Shop is brutal in the summer and freezing in the winter. Any advice?
The bubble foil is just a radiant barrier that will help reduce the effects of outside temperature influence a little, but it has almost no insulating value. It is not suitable if you ever want to heat/cool the building. It will give you a few degrees relief from outside temperature effects. If you are looking for more than that, go with a proper insulation product. Foam is great but very expensive. Fiberglass is usually a better value. If you can find pole-barn specific fiberglass batts or rolls, it will make the job go way quicker. It's usually 4' wide and optionally comes with a vinyl facing for the interior side. If you have a Menards nearby, they usually carry that stuff or can order it.
Ever looked at Trusscore? Seems to be a modular, corrugated PVC product. They appear to market to residential, commercial, and agriculture markets.I have not seen it or used it but vaguely recall a Matt Risinger video about it.
It's cool stuff and I like it, but quite expensive.
My builders did not install wrap between the exterior metal and exterior girts, should I be concerned?
House wrap is mainly intended to manage moisture transfer through walls that are permeable. Won't help much with metal since it doesn't breathe (which is one reason you can have condensation problems with metal).
You mentioned the wall sheathing resting on the bottom interior girt which subsequently transfers to the concrete floor. What if the concrete floor isn't level/flat in some areas? The Girt is now fully supporting? Does this situation change based on using 2x girts over 1x girts? Did you space your girts at 16 o.c.? Finally did you compare cost of pressure treated or combo of not-treated and a sill seal product? These videos have been great, thank you for your time and effort.
My girts are spaced 24", but the bottom rests on the sloped concrete floor so it deviates from that spacing a bit (floor slopes at around 1/8" per foot). KD and PT costs the same (within 20-30 cents) right now for a 2x4x8 so it was no big deal to go with PT on the bottom. If your bottom girt doesn't rest on the floor then all the girts should be sized to support the interior wall material load (1x girts may still be fine).
@@Lumber_Jack Thank you, how would one size the girts? If I want walls for a wood shop where I don’t want to worry how much weight is on wall would it be a better design to use trad 2x4 16 oc wall design?