Thank you for producing and posting this! After watching your video, I diagnosed the issue, purchased the parts, and fixed my microwave! The part was only $10, and saved me from replacing a $500 unit! Much appreciated!!!!! :)
Worked perfectly! Thank you. I didn't worry about which one was faulty; I replaced all three. Also, a shout-out to Miracle Appliance Parts in Thousand Oaks California, who had the switches in stock as well as helpful advice on how to handle the two normally-open and one normally-closed switches ("just plug in the adapters - it'll work fine!"). My microwave was a 36" GE Profile exhaust hood / microwave, just like his. The fix was really straightforward. Cleaning the 12 years' accumulation of cooking grease out was a little more problematic, though WIndex worked great for that.
Thank you! With your help this was an easy fix for our microwave. I tested my switches with my finger without removing any of them to find the culprit that needed replacement.
Thanks for the video. I was able to fix my microwave in under a half hour using the information provided here. In case it helps others, I almost ordered the wrong part - what worked was reading off the part number itself on my particular malfunctioning piece and search/order that. In my case that was SZM-V16-FD-63 but there seems to be a lot of variability for these parts (and according to user reviews on Amazon, a lot of people who order the wrong part) so read off your own part number before ordering. - Thanks again!
Chris DallaVilla, good point. What I did was order both switches (the 62 & the 63) - they come in a 2-pack on Amazon for not much more than a single switch. That way I knew I’d have the one I needed before opening up the microwave. Thanks for the video Equinox DIY, great job!
Had the same problem. Door open and microwave kept running. Ordered replacement part. Watched video. Took 15 minutes from start to finish. Spent more time cleaning the top of microwave than fixing it. One note, make sure you have the correct bit to take off door panel piece before you start. Thanks for posting this fix.
Before 1:19 you may need to remove screws. I got excited when I saw I have this same microwave but then frustrated when I could not pop the top front cover off as easily. A couple rather obscure screws removed from top front and off it comes. Appreciate the video - very helpful.
Used this video to make a repair. When the door was open the fan would run. Eventually, microwave stopped working completely. Very easy repair. Part was $30. Microwave works perfectly now. Thanks for the video.
Thank you!!! Just fixed mine, one of those three black switches were weak and didn't 'click' as well. I opened the black switch's housing and bent the tiny metal piece that acted as the spring, takes some dexterity to tinker with those tiny insides but bending it back into shape fixed it! Didn't even need to buy a new replacement.
@@kevintomb aw dang really? I would say maybe try bending it again if you feel like it, and instead flip it upsidedown this time to bend it the other way to give it extra resistance. I have had zero issues so far since I tinkered with mine. On eBay I saw they weren't expensive anyway.
Great video. As mentioned previously you should definitely discharge the capacitor prior to touching anything! Also when running the microwave even for just 30 seconds make sure you put a cup of water in it. Running it completely empty is never a good idea.
Thank you very much for sharing your video. In our case, we didn't have to buy new switches, but opening it up and checking out each switch seemed to do the trick (for now).
Thank you! I was able to fix it myself. Took 2 switches because the lady where I bought the first switch said I didn't need to break off the extra metal prong and it blew as soon as I plugged it in because it touched metal. Got it the 2nd time though!!
Thanks for your video, I think I just extend the life of our microwave by however long the switch is going to last. Bought a pair from Amazon for $10(Lonye). Put it on less than a hour as I was trying to do it really cautiously.
Thanks so much. This was such an awesome DIY video. It was simple to follow and my microwave is now working like a charm. Thanks so much for taking the time to create this video.
Thank you for sharing this video. My issue was the oven not heating. All other functions were fine, but when hitting “start”, timer would count down, but it would not heat. My MW is a Kenmore and I was able to order the entire latch assembly that came with all three switches for less money than buying three switches separately (about $13). Appliance repair service calls are not cheap, so this helped save us a some $$. Thanks again!
Faulty bottom switch in my case. Thank you for your time-saving video! Note: the faulty switch rings out OK w/ an ohm meter, but its return spring seems weak, and there is no positive click, as with the new replacement. I suspect it would just stay in the pressed-in / circuit closed position even with the door open, signalling the control panel that the door was closed.
Exactly the same on our GE microwave. Bottom switch was the problem. Same as the top switch SZM-V16-FD-63. Switch cost about $6 on Amazon vs $17-$20 on appliance part websites.
Thanks for the video. I just had this problem and I was able to locate the faulty switch and repair it by opening the switch and gently cleaning the switch contacts with sand paper. I bent the spring ban into shape and the switch was back to working again.
Did you discharge capacitor as Eddie Perez recommended. He said it was necessary and easy to do, but never told HOW to do it. How do you discharge the capacitor? Where is it located?
I found a GE microwave by the side of the road that had a similar situation. So, I took it apart until I got to the switches. However, instead of the switch needing to be replaced, it randomly popped out as I was trying to remove it. So, I just used some contact cleaner to clean the top of the button so that it wouldn't stick anymore, and we got a free microwave in the process.
How to find the correct door switch at Amazon? Is it by amperage, voltage or a combination of those plus other specs not listed in my question? Thank you.
I had an awful time disconnecting the wires from the switch. If this happens to you, put the swith back in and use a screwdriver in the small slot between the green wire housing to pry it off. Trying to pull the wires from the switch (for me) was the hardest part of this fix. Preferably use the screwdriver in the slot BEFORE you remove the switch.
Thank you for this video. It worked just as you showed it. I was a bit scared at first by the capacitor comments but was careful to work only in the front of the microwave and didn’t touch anything metal inside. If someone knows how to discharge it then I’m sure that’s best but it worked.
My GE over stove is doing the exact same thing. Just a few months out of warranty. Go figure. The second microwave. My first lasted forever till the door switch failed and a relay on board kept losing contact. My attempt at soldering it back to board failed in disaster letting solder wick into relay. I think with one of the door interlock switches sticking making the fan come on when you open door, the microwave must have a check and does that so the consumer will get it checked out since if others stick, it will work with the door open. Still pretty sorry and GE's undoing . Putting 2Cent parts in their appliances.
Thank you, great video. You explained it and showed it very good. I had the same problem. One of my switches was broken. I fixed it thanks to your video. I appreciate it.
I have a GE Profile Spacemaker® 1.8 Cu. Ft. XL1800 Microwave Oven PVM1870SMSS. Mine is also doing the same thing. My wife is scared because she thinks we are getting zapped with radiation every time we open the door. I told her I am pretty certain it is just the fan. Because I put water in it, with door open and it "running" and the water just stays cold. So it is just the stupid fan running when we open it, correct?
Dying bottom switch in our case. As an experiment, discovered if the bottom "normally open" switch is the broken one and you swap it with the top, you can use the microwave normally for a few months more until it also breaks.
Thank you for the video, the information is good however this video could be much better in terms of how to disassemble the components. There are screws on top of the Grill Assembly cover they are not mentioned. The grill assembly needs to be shifted to the left to be removed, worth mentioning. There are tabs holding the door switches that need to be depressed to remove the switch.
I have the opposite problem.. buzzing sound without light when door is closed, heats stuff too... no sound when the door is open. I could get to the switches and tested for continuity. Top switch disconnects when door open, connects when door closed. Middle switch connects when door open, disconnects when door closed. could not get my hands to the bottom one......... could the problem be switches too? can you specify which switches did you order from amazon? coz mine's GE too, looks almost similar to yours.
Sanj, Thanks for your comment. Search the switch specs in user guide, and search with the # in amazon. Sometimes they suggest a different switch, but somewhere in the page they mention compatibility with your switch # Switches I used for my GE JNM1851SM2SS: WB24X829 WB24X830 Around $5 each + $5 shipping. Hope this helps. Thanks
Equinox DIY thanks for you reply.. I figured my keypad was bad.. pressed a bunch of keys randomly Nd it works okay for now..... I might have to open it up and clean the contact points
I just finished replacing both switches and, unfortunately, the problem persists. Your video is excellent and was easy to follow. Any ideas as to what might be another cause of my problem? Thanks.
The one benefit I did get from replacing the two switches was that, although the microwave light and motor stay on while the door is open, I no longer have to deal with the circuit breaker tripping every once in a while because of the microwave. At this point, I'm "satisfied"....
There is another quick fix. If you can't replace the switch(es) immediately, you can manually click them a few times or close open the microwave door rapidly. This seems to fix the mechanical fault without having to replace the switch.
Hi and thank you for your video , you explain what your doing and so much easier for me to follow along , I have 1 question my micro is almost the same as yours and my switches seem to click ok but I checked with my continuity meter and the middle one stays open whether I click it or not so is that a bad switch ? Thank you for your time Ron
Thanks Ron for your comment. In my case there were 3 total switch of two different type. So first mark/remember which one is placed where and then try to swap switches (the two identical) and see if it make any difference in behavior. I don't know your combination, but what I am trying to suggest is, if you swap identical switches and some behavior changes occur, then check manual and find out what each switch is doing. That may help. Thanks
I knew the problem with the microwave was a faulty switch. I am trying to find out WHY the faulty switch makes the fan come on when the door is opened. I've not found the schematic for my GE microwave to figure out the logic on this.
I know this is a older video but maybe your still around to answer questions, are someone else maybe, anyways my question about the three interlock switches is if there all the same type of switches if you bought one? like to say that any switch bought like one of them will work in any slot if it goes bad? Thanks
Nope. One of them is "normally closed." I believe that is the switch located between the other two. Its bottom terminal is the same as on the other two, (located on the switch's "floor") but its side terminal is closer to the "roof" of the switch (button is on the roof) than to its floor. On the other two switches, that terminal it is closer to the "Floor" of the switch than the roof. So, in electrical terms, the middle switch is "normally closed", while the other two are "normally open."
My Samsung combi microwave suddenly beeps 2x and goes on to convection oven mode with the door still open. It doesn’t turn on cooking, but I don’t dare to leave it plugged on now. What could it be the problem? It’s an old one, but it never let me down before. Thank you.
What is the GE Model # of your microwave? What are the part numbers of the Secondary and Monitor switches for your unit that you ordered from Amazon? Which switch was defective on your unit? Secondary or Monitor Switch? My unit is also causing a circuit breaker overload/surge. Did you have a circuit breaker overload surge issue that accompanied your symptoms?
My microwave is the same manufacturer and appears to be the same model. It will turn on for a split second when opening the door but then shuts off right away. Any ideas of the fix for that?
There is a small plastic tab that you have to push. This plastic tab is on the white plastic bracket that holds the 3 switches that you see in the video. One plastic tab for each switch. Push on that tab to release the switch.
So, my microwave just started doing the same thing. Previously, it seemed to be working, but sometimes wouldn't cook, unless I stopped it, and started it again. Now, the dang thing turns on when I open the door! Quick question: Am I getting irradiated, when I open the door?? 😂
Unfortunately, not only the fan but the actual Microwave turned on when my sister opened the door and her skin got burned.. Hopefully this fixes the issue..
Of coarse, each person should evaluate their own situation, but in my case (GE Model JES2051DNWW) the Klystron was not being powered and therefore no microwaves generated. I had the exact same symptom, door open, light on, turntable motor and fan running but no microwaves. This can be checked a couple of ways. When you start it normally with the door closed and food inside, you'll hear the same sounds as with the door open but after a short delay, an additional deeper hum will be heard. That's the Klystron (microwave tube) drawing a much larger amount of power through a large transformer inside. If you don't hear that second hum with the door open, likely it's safe. Another way is a direct test. Place some food that quickly shows evidence of microwave heating such as a single slice of cheese on a plate inside. If after 15-20 seconds, it's not melting, then no microwaves and should be cool to the touch. To verify, close the door and start it at full power with the cheese inside. The cheese will melt quickly.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Took me 30 minutes to fix my microwave after watching this video, my switch was stuck not broken. Thank you so much.
Thank you for producing and posting this! After watching your video, I diagnosed the issue, purchased the parts, and fixed my microwave! The part was only $10, and saved me from replacing a $500 unit! Much appreciated!!!!! :)
Thanks for saving me $300+!! Recommend unplugging and waiting several days for the capacitor to discharge prior to beginning work.
Worked perfectly! Thank you. I didn't worry about which one was faulty; I replaced all three.
Also, a shout-out to Miracle Appliance Parts in Thousand Oaks California, who had the switches in stock as well as helpful advice on how to handle the two normally-open and one normally-closed switches ("just plug in the adapters - it'll work fine!").
My microwave was a 36" GE Profile exhaust hood / microwave, just like his. The fix was really straightforward. Cleaning the 12 years' accumulation of cooking grease out was a little more problematic, though WIndex worked great for that.
Thank you! With your help this was an easy fix for our microwave. I tested my switches with my finger without removing any of them to find the culprit that needed replacement.
Thanks for this! I couldn't figure out why our awesome microwave started running every time we opened the door!
Thanks for the video. I was able to fix my microwave in under a half hour using the information provided here. In case it helps others, I almost ordered the wrong part - what worked was reading off the part number itself on my particular malfunctioning piece and search/order that. In my case that was SZM-V16-FD-63 but there seems to be a lot of variability for these parts (and according to user reviews on Amazon, a lot of people who order the wrong part) so read off your own part number before ordering. - Thanks again!
Chris DallaVilla, good point. What I did was order both switches (the 62 & the 63) - they come in a 2-pack on Amazon for not much more than a single switch. That way I knew I’d have the one I needed before opening up the microwave. Thanks for the video Equinox DIY, great job!
Had the same problem. Door open and microwave kept running. Ordered replacement part. Watched video. Took 15 minutes from start to finish. Spent more time cleaning the top of microwave than fixing it. One note, make sure you have the correct bit to take off door panel piece before you start. Thanks for posting this fix.
Before 1:19 you may need to remove screws. I got excited when I saw I have this same microwave but then frustrated when I could not pop the top front cover off as easily. A couple rather obscure screws removed from top front and off it comes.
Appreciate the video - very helpful.
This video was so helpful. Ordered a set of switches on Amazon and replaced all three while I had the microwave apart. Thank you for your video!
Thank you so much for taking the time to post this...it helped save me $200! I was ready to go out and buy a whole new microwave. THANK YOU!!
Your video was much easier to follow than most. Thank You
Used this video to make a repair. When the door was open the fan would run. Eventually, microwave stopped working completely. Very easy repair. Part was $30. Microwave works perfectly now. Thanks for the video.
mine is doing the same thing, the fan would run w/ the door open , now the microwave doesnt heat and the plate doesnt turn. urs the same?
Thank you!!! Just fixed mine, one of those three black switches were weak and didn't 'click' as well. I opened the black switch's housing and bent the tiny metal piece that acted as the spring, takes some dexterity to tinker with those tiny insides but bending it back into shape fixed it! Didn't even need to buy a new replacement.
I did the same exact thing, but still ordered a new switch. Turns out, my "Fix" only lasted a few days...lol
@@kevintomb aw dang really? I would say maybe try bending it again if you feel like it, and instead flip it upsidedown this time to bend it the other way to give it extra resistance.
I have had zero issues so far since I tinkered with mine. On eBay I saw they weren't expensive anyway.
GE wanted $90 just to come to the house, plus hourly rate and cost for the part. Your video cost me $6.75 for the part... Thanks.
Great video. As mentioned previously you should definitely discharge the capacitor prior to touching anything!
Also when running the microwave even for just 30 seconds make sure you put a cup of water in it. Running it completely empty is never a good idea.
Thank you very much for sharing your video. In our case, we didn't have to buy new switches, but opening it up and checking out each switch seemed to do the trick (for now).
Thank you! Your directions were great! It was the top switch. $8 fix. Great content!!!!!
Thank you for the video, I nearly bought a new one until I searched for the problem and saw this!
Thanks a lot! Just fixed my GE microwave and saved $300
This was great, thank you! Also, this is the solution for when the microwave just ceases to come on and heat even though the timer is on.
Thank you! I was able to fix it myself. Took 2 switches because the lady where I bought the first switch said I didn't need to break off the extra metal prong and it blew as soon as I plugged it in because it touched metal. Got it the 2nd time though!!
Thank you, ironically I own the same microwave as yours, this DIY video will save a lot of money for many people. Very informative.
Thanks.
The irony is lost on me.
Easy and simple video to the point.
Please let us know the part numbers used.
Thanks for your video, I think I just extend the life of our microwave by however long the switch is going to last. Bought a pair from Amazon for $10(Lonye). Put it on less than a hour as I was trying to do it really cautiously.
So very helpful! I just fixed my Kenmore 401.8505 Microwave. Such a great video!
Thank you for the instructions. They were right on 🎯 target 😊
Thanks so much.
This was such an awesome DIY video.
It was simple to follow and my microwave is now working like a charm.
Thanks so much for taking the time to create this video.
Thank you for sharing this video. My issue was the oven not heating. All other functions were fine, but when hitting “start”, timer would count down, but it would not heat. My MW is a Kenmore and I was able to order the entire latch assembly that came with all three switches for less money than buying three switches separately (about $13). Appliance repair service calls are not cheap, so this helped save us a some $$. Thanks again!
Mark, good to know it helped.
Faulty bottom switch in my case. Thank you for your time-saving video! Note: the faulty switch rings out OK w/ an ohm meter, but its return spring seems weak, and there is no positive click, as with the new replacement. I suspect it would just stay in the pressed-in / circuit closed position even with the door open, signalling the control panel that the door was closed.
Exactly the same on our GE microwave. Bottom switch was the problem. Same as the top switch SZM-V16-FD-63. Switch cost about $6 on Amazon vs $17-$20 on appliance part websites.
Thanks for the video. I just had this problem and I was able to locate the faulty switch and repair it by opening the switch and gently cleaning the switch contacts with sand paper. I bent the spring ban into shape and the switch was back to working again.
Awesome directions and step by step with the whole process!
Thank you!
Thanks for your comment Jeanne
Thank you. I just ordered a replacement switch from Amazon.
Thank you so much. That is exactly what our microwave is doing. We will work on it tomorrow.
Thank you , that worked and it was the top switch that was faulty... again thanks for your video
Thanks for your video. I have the same issue with my GE microwave. I will be busy this weekend trying to fix it.
Thank you for the video. Great step by step instructions!
Did you discharge capacitor as Eddie Perez recommended. He said it was necessary and easy to do, but never told HOW to do it. How do you discharge the capacitor? Where is it located?
I found a GE microwave by the side of the road that had a similar situation. So, I took it apart until I got to the switches. However, instead of the switch needing to be replaced, it randomly popped out as I was trying to remove it. So, I just used some contact cleaner to clean the top of the button so that it wouldn't stick anymore, and we got a free microwave in the process.
Thanks for the video. Between this video and a $10 part my microwave is working great again!
Thanks so much for your help! Probably saved a $150.00 house call for $14.00!
Thanks so much. You saved me a lot of money. I was going to call a repairman.
How to find the correct door switch at Amazon? Is it by amperage, voltage or a combination of those plus other specs not listed in my question? Thank you.
Thank you! Microwave fixed in minutes.
That was plain and instructive. Thank you.
Thanks I got my microwave fixed in 30 minutes like you said.
I had an awful time disconnecting the wires from the switch. If this happens to you, put the swith back in and use a screwdriver in the small slot between the green wire housing to pry it off. Trying to pull the wires from the switch (for me) was the hardest part of this fix. Preferably use the screwdriver in the slot BEFORE you remove the switch.
Could you please provide a link to these items that you bought on Amazon?
What kind of screwdriver did you use to open the white part to release the door switch panel? My philips screwdriver does not work.
Thank you for this video. It worked just as you showed it. I was a bit scared at first by the capacitor comments but was careful to work only in the front of the microwave and didn’t touch anything metal inside. If someone knows how to discharge it then I’m sure that’s best but it worked.
can you tell me the part link on amazon that I should buy?
My GE over stove is doing the exact same thing. Just a few months out of warranty. Go figure. The second microwave. My first lasted forever till the door switch failed and a relay on board kept losing contact. My attempt at soldering it back to board failed in disaster letting solder wick into relay.
I think with one of the door interlock switches sticking making the fan come on when you open door, the microwave must have a check and does that so the consumer will get it checked out since if others stick, it will work with the door open. Still pretty sorry and GE's undoing . Putting 2Cent parts in their appliances.
Thank you, great video. You explained it and showed it very good. I had the same problem. One of my switches was broken. I fixed it thanks to your video. I appreciate it.
Thanks Paul. Good to know it helped you.
Are microwaves actually coming out when the light is on and the dish is spinning, control panel not set to on?
My microwave model is pvm1790sr1ss which switches do I need numbers?
did u discharge the capacitor before u did this procedure? do we not need to do that before replacing the door switch?
You really need to this is always necessary anytime you open the microwave and it only takes seconds to do
@@eddieperez5549 How do you discharge the capacitor?
I have a GE Profile Spacemaker® 1.8 Cu. Ft. XL1800 Microwave Oven
PVM1870SMSS. Mine is also doing the same thing. My wife is scared because she thinks we are getting zapped with radiation every time we open the door. I told her I am pretty certain it is just the fan. Because I put water in it, with door open and it "running" and the water just stays cold. So it is just the stupid fan running when we open it, correct?
Does anyone know where the switches are for the sharp carousel smc1442cs model? Thanks.
Mine started doing the same problem, are there microwaves emitted when opening the door and it starts on its own?
Super helpful video, thank you!!
Thanks for the video!!! this looks like an easy DIY job...
Thanks Justin.
What's the name of the switch so can order.
Thank you
Dying bottom switch in our case. As an experiment, discovered if the bottom "normally open" switch is the broken one and you swap it with the top, you can use the microwave normally for a few months more until it also breaks.
Hello! Could you help me please? My GE microwave is doing the same, but all switches are clicking. Do you know what else it could be? Thank you!
Thank you for the video, the information is good however this video could be much better in terms of how to disassemble the components. There are screws on top of the Grill Assembly cover they are not mentioned. The grill assembly needs to be shifted to the left to be removed, worth mentioning. There are tabs holding the door switches that need to be depressed to remove the switch.
Olivier Cacault You can’t figure out how to take it apart you probably don’t need to work on it
Nice, thanks my friend. Found it and will fix it.
Very helpful. I intend to order a switch and try this out. Thanks a lot!
I have the opposite problem.. buzzing sound without light when door is closed, heats stuff too... no sound when the door is open. I could get to the switches and tested for continuity. Top switch disconnects when door open, connects when door closed. Middle switch connects when door open, disconnects when door closed. could not get my hands to the bottom one......... could the problem be switches too? can you specify which switches did you order from amazon? coz mine's GE too, looks almost similar to yours.
Sanj, Thanks for your comment. Search the switch specs in user guide, and search with the # in amazon. Sometimes they suggest a different switch, but somewhere in the page they mention compatibility with your switch #
Switches I used for my GE JNM1851SM2SS:
WB24X829
WB24X830
Around $5 each + $5 shipping. Hope this helps. Thanks
Equinox DIY thanks for you reply.. I figured my keypad was bad.. pressed a bunch of keys randomly Nd it works okay for now..... I might have to open it up and clean the contact points
I just finished replacing both switches and, unfortunately, the problem persists. Your video is excellent and was easy to follow. Any ideas as to what might be another cause of my problem? Thanks.
Same! replaced the 3 door switches and still stupid microwave starts when I open the door!
The one benefit I did get from replacing the two switches was that, although the microwave light and motor stay on while the door is open, I no longer have to deal with the circuit breaker tripping every once in a while because of the microwave. At this point, I'm "satisfied"....
There is another quick fix. If you can't replace the switch(es) immediately, you can manually click them a few times or close open the microwave door rapidly. This seems to fix the mechanical fault without having to replace the switch.
Hahaha - it worked. When in doubt, bash the electronics, will probably fix it
Yeah but it only works for a while. It will eventually fail completely.
whats the model of the switch?
Hi and thank you for your video , you explain what your doing and so much easier for me to follow along , I have 1 question my micro is almost the same as yours and my switches seem to click ok but I checked with my continuity meter and the middle one stays open whether I click it or not so is that a bad switch ? Thank you for your time Ron
Thanks Ron for your comment. In my case there were 3 total switch of two different type. So first mark/remember which one is placed where and then try to swap switches (the two identical) and see if it make any difference in behavior. I don't know your combination, but what I am trying to suggest is, if you swap identical switches and some behavior changes occur, then check manual and find out what each switch is doing. That may help. Thanks
Nice work gent!
I knew the problem with the microwave was a faulty switch. I am trying to find out WHY the faulty switch makes the fan come on when the door is opened. I've not found the schematic for my GE microwave to figure out the logic on this.
My schematic is folded up and tucked away behind the control panel.
My microwave starts when the door is open and does not run at all with the door closed. Would that be a faulty switch also?
Thank you for your video and effort 👍❤️☮️
Wonder if just alcohol soak n cleaning would work, probably sticky butter popcorn residues in switch. Life experience husband fix it list check box.
Thank you very much it worked!! You saved me lots of money thanks again!🙏
I know this is a older video but maybe your still around to answer questions, are someone else maybe, anyways my question about the three interlock switches is if there all the same type of switches if you bought one? like to say that any switch bought like one of them will work in any slot if it goes bad? Thanks
Nope. One of them is "normally closed." I believe that is the switch located between the other two. Its bottom terminal is the same as on the other two, (located on the switch's "floor") but its side terminal is closer to the "roof" of the switch (button is on the roof) than to its floor. On the other two switches, that terminal it is closer to the "Floor" of the switch than the roof. So, in electrical terms, the middle switch is "normally closed", while the other two are "normally open."
My Samsung combi microwave suddenly beeps 2x and goes on to convection oven mode with the door still open. It doesn’t turn on cooking, but I don’t dare to leave it plugged on now. What could it be the problem? It’s an old one, but it never let me down before. Thank you.
What is the GE Model # of your microwave?
What are the part numbers of the Secondary and Monitor switches for your unit that you ordered from Amazon?
Which switch was defective on your unit? Secondary or Monitor Switch?
My unit is also causing a circuit breaker overload/surge.
Did you have a circuit breaker overload surge issue that accompanied your symptoms?
Your microwave is exactly as mine, would you mind sharing with me the door switch number? Thanks!!
My switches test good. I removed the circuit board and cleaned it with alcohol. All works fine now.
My GE model is jeb1860sm2ss . Somewhat similar to URS, but touch panel doesn't have any screw to open/ detach. Any idea how to open the panel. Thanks.
Every model is different, so I can't suggest, pls check user manual for detail.
Great video, thanks for the help!
good tip on shipping on switches
Great knowledge thanks!
My microwave is the same manufacturer and appears to be the same model. It will turn on for a split second when opening the door but then shuts off right away. Any ideas of the fix for that?
Its a bad door switch
Cheers mate, what a save!!!
Question: How do I get the switch off the microwave?????
There is a small plastic tab that you have to push. This plastic tab is on the white plastic bracket that holds the 3 switches that you see in the video. One plastic tab for each switch. Push on that tab to release the switch.
Thank you so much for sharing this information
My switches all tested ok but replacing them still fixed the problem.
You should really discharge the capacitor before working on this microwave it can store about 3000 volts.
Good call! I had a suspicion, and was wondering that, when he went in with a screwdriver!
Eddie Perez, how do you discharge the capacitor?
Great video - thanks
So, my microwave just started doing the same thing. Previously, it seemed to be working, but sometimes wouldn't cook, unless I stopped it, and started it again. Now, the dang thing turns on when I open the door! Quick question: Am I getting irradiated, when I open the door?? 😂
Unfortunately, not only the fan but the actual Microwave turned on when my sister opened the door and her skin got burned..
Hopefully this fixes the issue..
Worked on my Samsung! Thanks
I ordered the complete latch board and 3 micro switch assy from Amazon. Replacing a single switch is not the way to go (IMO).
Wasn't it dangerous to stand in front of the microwave like that?
Jack I don't understand what do you mean by that, but I unplugged connection before working on it, so no risk . Thanks.
Equinox DIY No I mean in the very beginning you've demonstrated that it runs with the door open. Wasn't it dangerous?
Well may be, I don't think it's a big risk. :)
Of coarse, each person should evaluate their own situation, but in my case (GE Model JES2051DNWW) the Klystron was not being powered and therefore no microwaves generated. I had the exact same symptom, door open, light on, turntable motor and fan running but no microwaves. This can be checked a couple of ways. When you start it normally with the door closed and food inside, you'll hear the same sounds as with the door open but after a short delay, an additional deeper hum will be heard. That's the Klystron (microwave tube) drawing a much larger amount of power through a large transformer inside. If you don't hear that second hum with the door open, likely it's safe. Another way is a direct test. Place some food that quickly shows evidence of microwave heating such as a single slice of cheese on a plate inside. If after 15-20 seconds, it's not melting, then no microwaves and should be cool to the touch. To verify, close the door and start it at full power with the cheese inside. The cheese will melt quickly.
Keith
Worked, Thanks!