I replaced the fuse and it worked for a few days great. Then we opened the door mid cook and it popped. I used a fast acting. 20 amp fuse, that’s what was in there. Should I try a slow blow fuse? To give it a little more resistance? Is there any danger in upgrading to a slow blow fuse, if the same amperage of course
@@financialadvisor1000 Replace the middle door switch. Sometimes it freezes in ON position and short the circle. Later the switch continues to work in a normal way
Teodozia Galchin I have a Sanyo unit, it went bad , both the turn tables, fan are not turning, checked the middle door switch ,it was stuck on position with either the door is close or open . Removed the sw ,the sw falling of parts, it’s indicated (NO )so replace with a same switch,and set to a minute,start it up the fuse blows immediately, installed the second fuse it’s did something, I start chasing the wiring of that switch, the white color wire ( natural) run to both of the fan and the light,same as the orange color wiring ( hot) ,run to another end of both fan and light. ? ? ? If the ( origin) middle door micro switch (NO) was the right one ,my microwave shouldn’t have been working. ! Unfortunately My unit don’t have Schematics, try to look for two weeks,so far have no luck, I try to disconnect the middle door switch wiring, the light,turn table, the fan are working, but it has loudly and humming noise.
After some research I thought replacing mine would fix the issue. I just replaced my microwave switch as something cause it to fuse together again and trip the breaker.
Dave, you are an excellent instructor, and I am so glad you posted all this helpful information. Many people are great at repairs and have extensive knowledge about the task at hand. But just knowing a lot does NOT make one a great teacher! Your friendly manner and delivery are reassuring to your audience, and your tips about pictures, when to throw in the towel or continue with repairs, and how to save money are so appreciated. Thanks for posting this, and keep teaching us!
Dave, I wanted to thank you for taking the time to produce this very informative video. I have been in the automotive and motorcycle repair business for over four decades. Even though I would consider myself mechanically gifted, I’ve never tackled a microwave repair. Due to the fantastic sage wisdom you provided in this video, I had our microwave repaired in one evening as my local hardware store had the parts in stock to replace the switch and fuse! Thank you again!
This video was 100% spot on. My 2015 Whirlpool microwave stopped working over a week or two. The clock continued to work the entire time but the light would not come on when the door opened. If the light didn't come on then the control panel didn't work either. Wait an hour or so open the door and the light came on, everyting worked again. Might work for a couple days then it stopped working again. Finally it would not work at all. Checked the three switches with meter and one didn't seem right. Removed the switch and took took it apart, it has burnt contacts, but were not welded together. Went on Amazon ordered the 3 switch set total price with shipping and tax $8.28. The replacement switches were the exact same brand and part number as the OEM ones. Installed one switch pit everything back together and it is as good as new. Thanks for making the video it was a big help. I was worried I would break the plastic clips that hold the switch in place but I didn't. Thanks again.
Dave, THANK YOU! I just impressed the heck out of myself by successfully replacing all 3 switches and having my KitchenAid over the range microwave come back to life! A little daunting when you open it up and see all of the wires but your amazingly easy to follow video, a little common sense, a camera, and some patience won the day. I'm one grateful Lady. Can't thank you enough.
Bless you Dave!! You just saved this 1st grade teacher some money!!🙂 I love the way you explain each step completely using great vocabulary, as well as the visuals, and also hints like taking pics with our camera and not purchasing the most expensive replacements!! You're a great "fixer" as my kiddos say, as well as a good teacher. Thanks so much!
Not only you are knowledgeable you are very well spoken very educated proper vocabulary it’s a blessing to see education smart people as your self that makes you wanting to scream thank you kindly 👋🏻🙏🏻
Dave, you just saved me at LEAST $300!!! You were spot on with your directions and I'm a novice on electronic repair. I was able to get the parts on amazon in less than 2 days. I couldn't have done it without you! Thank you SO much ❤
Thanks Dave! I had an F1E4 error on my Whirlpool, Replaced (P/N: HF25F-012H ) relay available on eBay. Less than $10.00 repair, Replaced everything works fine. Thank you for this helpful information.
I have never ever left a comment or review for anything but I had to now. I knew my door switch was bad but I have four of them so determining which one was dreaded. Luckily, I noticed one had the clicking tab locked up and knew ot was the one. Now, where you come in......you said you could unfuse on the inside of the switch and that's exactly what I did. I haven't had my microwave working for about 6 months and I just fixed it, thanks to you!!! I can't tell you how important your small comment about un-fusing actually is. Who knew!! Thank you so very much for bringing that small detail to everyone's attention. YOU'RE AWESOME!!!!
Thanks for the video! My Whirlpool WML55011 showed the F1E4 error. I checked the 3 door switches. All good. I then removed the Control board, checked the 3 relays with a 12V power supply. They clicked. All good! Before I ordered a new board, I decided to re-assembled the unit and guess what: It worked! It must have been one of the connectors, which was not properly seated. Easy fix!
Small world. I just fixed my refrigerator based on your video on the start relay diagnostics and replacement. Then a day later my father in law said his microwave was not working and sent me this video as a reference for ideas on what is wrong. With the thousands of "fix it" videos on RUclips, I found it amazing that he and I both found yours. I am pretty sure it is going to be his door switch and will help him with the repair. A huge thank you from both of us and keep up the great work!! All the best -DT
Thanks Dave! I had an F1E4 on my Whirlpool too but I decided to check the first 2 items you mentioned in your presentation first before looking at the board and sure enough, through process of elimination, the fault was at the bottom door switch. I was fortunate because all I had to do was cycle the switch several times but it will probably have to be changed out eventually. Our family has a habit of opening the door in the middle of the cooking cycle and doing that tends to short out the switches because they are energized. A good practice (and we obviously don't practice this enough) with all Micro hoods is to always press the Cancel button on the control panel before opening the door when the unit is in the middle or near the end of a cook cycle. This will greatly lengthen the life of the door switches due to the fact that they have electrical current running through them during the cook cycle. Thanks again you saved us a ton. I hate changing those units out. That would have been my 4th one.
This video was perfect. I ordered the 3-piece set using your link, got them 2 days later. Had a hunch it was the lower switch giving me problems (after opening the door, the light didn’t come on, as in maybe the switch was sticking). Replaced the lower switch, plugged in microwave, opened door, and the light came on. Two weeks later and still working great. Thank you!
Dave, your video saved me hundreds of $! My issue WAS a jammed switch mechanism but your video showed me how to access the switch area. Thank you very much, keep at! DAN
Finally! Was looking for a video like this for a long time. I was getting the door open/close error and my interior light was sporadically going on and off. When off microwave wasn't working. By opening up the control area and getting a visual of the door switches I noticed that one of the plugs had come undone and was making just a little contact. Plugged it back in securely and now problem solved. Thank you so much!!!
Your video just helped me diagnose and fix my Kenmore OTR microwave, with zero new parts. It was indeed the middle interlock switch that was stuck. Repaired it and I saved either a $249 repair call or potentially a new unit. Thanks so much!
Thank you so much for posting this video. I fixed my microwave for less than $5. Could not have done it without the help from your video. Had to replace one switch.
I found your video by searching "WML550011HS07 error F1E4". I watched the whole video and thought about what you said regarding "...it might be the Fuse or Door Switch" near the end of the video. It took a bit of brainstorming and thinking about 'this & that". In the end, it tuned out to be a stuck door-lock, as you suggested. Thank you.
Wow, was able to get right into my Kenmore over the range micrwave and change out the fuse with no problem. Never could have done it without your video, many thanks.
this worked beautifully thank you! My very expensive samsung microwave went dead overnight. Turns out I had put a mug with gold plating into it and this burnt out the fuse INSIDE the microwave, not the fuse in the plug as is common in the UK. Lo' and behold, samsungs "recommended service providers" wanted to charge £90 for a call-out fee, just to inspect it (the microwave cost £85). A replacement fuse set of 10 (I only needed 1), cost £6 and this took a little over 5 mins to unscrew, insert and screw back. Will happily buy you a beer sir!
Thank you for these instructions. I just replaced a sensor on my microwave and it is now working perfectly, it saved me $300 from buying a new one. Thanks again
Thank you so much brother. Finally was able to fix my microwave after many months by replacing the door switches. I had replaced the fuses and thermostat fuses earlier but the microwave would still break the electric switch board. Replacing the switches fixed it. Can't thank you enough.
This is a great toaster oven replacement to the one I had for a few years. Easy to use, has all the right controls to cook my food how I would like. Looks great and doesn't take too much counter space. Very happy with my purchase.
Thanks for this video Dave! My microwave is constructed somewhat differently, but of course once I got the top/sides cover off I could see everything I needed to get to. My symptom at first was a turntable that sporadically continued to turn after I opened the door. After about a week the entire unit went dead. Watching your video taught me what I needed to know to diagnose a normally open switch and blown fuse. Ordered both just now and hoping to have them in my hands within 48 hours and the microwave reassembled and working again. I'll followup once that's accomplished with a final result.
48 hours later - parts replaced, unit reassembled and reinstalled. Working! I get to have a hot leftover Chinese meal tonight! Yay!!! There's nothing like the sense of accomplishment when I repair something I've never worked on before. RUclips University wins again!
Dear Dave. Thank you from the bottom of my heart for making this wonderful, wonderful video! Your kind efforts in making this video helped me more than you can ever know. I know to you it may be a simple thing, but I did not even know where my above range microwave was plugged in. Here I sat in despair thinking I would have to find the money to pay a repair person who would then have to tell me my microwave was too expensive to repair. If you had left us a way to send money to YOU I would gladly do so!
Mr. Dave, I forgot to mention I live on Social Security so I do not have extra money. Also I agree with Ms. Bartlett, you ARE an excellent instructor. I would gladly pay some of my limited funds to take a class from YOU!
Thanks, it's always nice to hear comments like this. It's easy to skip over the positive responses and focus on the negative ones. I'm like you, and everyone else. I just learn from watching other people's youtube video's.
This video helped me diagnose my 2009 Frigidaire FMV152KSA. This model has 3 switches, 2 door open/ closed and 1 light on/off. My bottom open/closed switch wouldn't complete the circuit unless I pushed the door closed just right. When I opened up the microwave to investigate I seen that the bottom switch was just out of reach of completing the circuit, that's why pushing the door extra hard would work. There was flex in the microwave frame that held the switch in place. To compensate for the flex I had to increase the rigidity of the connection. There was 1 factory screw holding the switch in place but there was 2 holes in the bracket and switch. I installed a similar sized screw in the second hole and it solved my issue. Before trying this I was going to blindly replace the door latch and all 3 switches. I hope this helps someone with a similar situation.
THANK YOU!! I was going to be charged $350 JUST to have a Whirlpool repairman come take a look. You led me through this beautifully- signed, a struggling Mama of 3 kids with disabilities. ❤️
Wonderful instructions on troubleshooting microwave problems. This helped me fix my Maytag microwave not starting. My microwave unit power was OK, keys and programming good too. Just idle when start key pressed. After removing covers, discovered one of the door switch was always open circuit. Electrical ohms meter proved switch always open circuit. Shaking the switch, something flapping around and broken inside. Ordered replacement switch from Amazon for $4. Many thanks, keep up the good work !!
My Hamilton Beach Microwave had the door problem and trying to test the switches the fuse blew. Your listed parts worked for me and the microwave works again. Thanks
Be very careful with the high voltage leads (over 2,000 volts) and the charged capacitor. It can kill you even unplugged. Look up how to short the capacitor terminals properly.
@@minnesotajack1 Anything power supply related, like what runs a microwave, or the power supply in a computer, has HUGE capacitors that rapidly store, and then discharge, massive amounts of electricity to supplement and provide more “oomph” than you can get with just your standard 110v line… because of the very nature of them needing to STORE power, they can kill you long after you unplug. I’m not so sure that gloves WOULDN’T help you (in fact I’m certain they would), it’s more so the fact that if you weren’t paying attention, working on something right next to a cap, and you clip one with the un-gloved part of your arm and it decided the mood was right for a good shocking, you’d be dead. That’s just not worth risking period. You need to put them gloves on, grab yourself an insulated screwdriver, and with the ‘wave unplugged you’ll short that screwdriver across the main positive and negative lead internally wherever you can get at it. This should discharge the caps. Keep them gloves on, and remain cautious, as even though it’s likely overkill… I’d much rather your safety precautions be overkill than… you….
@@BuckTooth-pl2dc @BuckTooth-pl2dc The reason replacing just the COM (Common) terminal won't solve your issue is that the functionality of a switch relies on the interaction between all three terminals: NO (Normally Open), NC (Normally Closed), and COM. The COM terminal alone doesn't dictate the switch's action; it's merely the point where the circuit's common line connects. For a microwave switch, here's what you need to do: 1. Identify the Switch Type: Determine if your microwave uses a simple on/off switch or a more complex changeover switch where COM connects to NO when the switch is activated and to NC when it's not. 2. Check for Faulty Components: Before replacing anything, ensure the issue is indeed with the switch and not elsewhere in the microwave's electrical system. 3. Replace the Entire Switch: If the switch is confirmed faulty, you'll need to replace the entire switch unit, not just one terminal. Microwave switches are usually sold as complete units to maintain safety and functionality standards. 4. Exact Match or Universal Switch: Look for an exact replacement for your microwave model or a universal microwave switch that matches your switch's specifications (check the number of terminals, the switch action, and any model-specific features). 5. Installation: Ensure that you or a professional correctly installs the new switch, connecting the wires to the correct terminals (COM, NO, NC) as per the microwave's design. Having a fluke or a voltmeter/continuity test would be extremely useful as well! Safety first!
Great video! Repairman came out and wanted to replace control panel. Did not even look inside. Hubby just opened up the panel and one of the door switches is broken. Thank you!
Thanks bro. Just saved me $300 for $10 micro switch. There's only 2 visible latches for Whirlpool but there actually 3 inside. Be careful when disconnecting, it's easy to loose track which connection goes where. Also an older microwave's plastic is brittle so things fall apart while disconnecting the old one. Just hoping for maybe another year with this machine.
Wow thanks for this vid! I had depressed the door latches, door wouldn’t shut so had to manually pull latches back. Upon pulling the bottom one out (so that door could latch-click- shut) the microwave light and screen went out. If you wouldn’t have explained about testing the latches and being so thorough, my $5 fuse fix (yes it was the fuse, not any latches) would have been $300+. Be blessed and thanks again.
Very helpful, thank you! I had the F1E4 error. For what it's worth, I THINK I got the code error from just a loose connection. So for everyone, before buying parts, note: I took out the fuse, checked it (was good), fiddled with the door switches, took our the control panel, and moved and ensured all connections were solid (there was a lot of grease and dust accumulation). I reassembled thinking I'd have to spring for a new relay or control panel, but lo and behold, when I reassembled, the micro worked perfectly fine again. So, I'd say just try tightening all connections before springing for new parts. (I'm prob just lucky!) Thanks again for the vid!
Ten years ago, had home built with pricey Frigidaire "Professional" built in microwave. It failed after three years and I replaced with another, but put it in the attic as possible spare parts. Last week the second one failed. Watched this. 5$ door switch fixed first one, 1$ fuse the second one! Love your practical video.
Best video that I’ve found on the subject. He covers all pertinent information. Thanks so much. Now I’m gonna tear apart my microwave and see which problem it is. 👍😀
This video saved me! Our Maytag microwave was only a couple years old too. Door open/close error too. I bought the generic micro switches on Amazon and installed them today. I used the camera to take pictures of the various wires and connectors. Everything went well and I completed the repair in about 40 minutes.
You are brilliant! you made a very very helpful video, explained things well, and moved right along. Looking in comments you have saved people A TON OF MONEY. thank you! none of these are my issue but I am saving your vid for one of these happen - because we know more will break. Thank you again..
Thank you for the video. Along with a GE specific video on how to remove the front panel, I was able to replace the three door switches (without too much cussing!). Funny thing - when I checked the three switches with the multimeter ($10 on Amazon), they all seemed to be working properly. But I put the three new ones in and the microwave oven is working again! Happy wife, Happy life!
Great video. My interior panel cover (the black plastic backing) was significantly different than this one, but once I got that off, I found that it was my three-way (COM) switch on the top door latch (it didn't click). It isn't super easy to maneuver in there, but I got it out the way you showed. Photos are a great idea for remembering which wires go where. $5.00 part from Amazon arrived next day. Put it back together, and voila! I have my microwave back, and saved several hundred dollars since I didn't need to buy a new one. Thanks again!
@Tim Keeton , that interior panel on my Maytag Microwave is also significantly different. It is fastened with that one screw on the bottom, but no top screw, in order to remove the panel and get access to the switches. So I am stuck. 😟. Can you explain how did you remove that panel, since it probably is like mine. Thank you in advance for any response. @Dave Wirth : Thank you for a very helpful video. 👍
@@xxycom8963 we no longer have the microwave (not due to this issue. Something else “killed” it), so I can’t look at it again. But, if I remember correctly, I think I just had to kind of pull on the top and left side of it because there were tabs that held it in place. I believe that is correct. I looked on top and took out a screw that I thought might be holding it in, but I don’t believe it ended up doing anything. If I recall correctly, removing the black plastic panel was the only difference between the video and my experience. Good luck and let me know if you succeed.
Very good video, well explained. We bought a new LG microwave model, LMV1764ST, AFTER getting it installed and turning it on, I find the control panel doesn't light up at all, and you really need to use a flashlight to see the options and set it to work. I figure it is a wire disconnected somewhere, and was really interested in getting in there to figure it out. I'll try it now, thanks.
I want to thank you 🙏🏾 about the information on the Whirlpool microwave. I had to replace the all three micro switches. One was bad but replaced all. Keep up the good work.
Thank you, I got to the switches and was able to just open the one that wasn’t clicking and was able to unstuck. It worked fine ounce I put everything together, and didn’t even had to buy anything. Thanks again
Thanks, Dave. Very helpful. Mine has sensor tech and keeps saying "open and close door" which of course doesn't work. Sometimes when I leave the door open for a time, the light goes back on and it works again. Until it doesn't. I'll start with the door part.
This was exactly what mine was doing, including usually working once the door was left open for a period of time. it is definitely an issue with the door sensor switch. Recommend just replacing all 3 of them while you have it opened.
Hi Dave, thanks for sharing your tips with these issues. I have a Frigidaire oven that was on a shed without being used for long time. When i took it back to replace a broken one, now the oven won't turn on. No error message or anything like that since the display is not working at all. A guy came and check it and said that there was power going into the oven's circuitry but seems that the main board is toasted and might need replacement. The oven was used only a couple of years so i don't know if is worth to get another board or throw it away and buy a new one.
Yup just like you said it was the fuse that blew out. Times are tough right now and your video is so appreciated. Thank you for making this video and you have a new follower and of course I liked your video. God bless 👍
Liked and subscribed even though ill never watch another microwave video again. I was able to fix mine 30 seconds after I watched this video. The first switch I checked was stuck and with a hard press, I was able to unstick it. Good as new. Thank you Dave.
Pulled out the switch, found it was stuck. Got it clicking again, cleaned the contact, but microwave still didn't work! Tried by bypassing the switch, THEN it worked! Turns out the switch was completely shot, no saving it. Waiting on my new switch now. Thanks! Cheap fix, didn't even have to take microwave down off the wall.
I too want to thank you for this excellent video. Saved me a bunch of money. Thought I would need to rush out to purchase a new microwave before Christmas. Like the previous comments, my switches tested okay with my multi-tester. Decided to purchase the amazon parts that you recommended and my appliance is back online. Happy Holidays to All
the problem i had with our microwave was not any of the ones in this video...but i watched your microwave video anyway because a while back i was installing a whole-house water filter system. i had watched your water-filter installation video and i found your setup to be sensible; i incorporated some of your features into the water system we put in. anyways...the microwave. the turntable wasn't turning and from watching your microwave video i thought about the three switches you mentioned. i had just replaced the plastic door latch switch because it had broken. turns out that the turntable wasn't turning because i hadn't fully inserted one of the switches. your video had made me think about the switches - which turned out to be the issue. the microwave is fixed and that's the case - due to, in part, you taking the time to make your microwave video. interesting how one person's actions can affect another person out there in the world, this time in a positive sense. thank you!
Awesome video! Very simple to follow. Somehow a plug came disconnected from my lower switch! Because of this video I was pointed in the right direction.
i guess i have to replace my microwave door switch,, having the same issue with no lights/no heating/no magnetron heating sound.. but rest all ok.. Thanks for your short n clear explanation...
Great video. 2 year old. Our new home microwave lasted 9 months old. Currently, My older microwave from 2009 just gave out. Unfortunately my magnetron magnet crack by overheating. Tear and wear Blowing the fuse by overheat. Fuse search found me your video 👍
Thank you Dave, fixed the open/close door error... I cleaned the dirty contacts and surfaces you recommended, it works like new! God Bless you, your video was very helpful 👍🙏
Thank you. I found this video to be super helpful. I had a door switch fault. It required more travel to engage the mechanism than the door latch was capable of, presumably due to a fatiguing spring. I was able to place a 1 mm piece of plastic in the switch mechanism to decrease the travel required, and it now works perfectly. I will order a new one as well, because I assume the spring will fail soon. 👍👍
This video saved me about a thousand dollar. Top of the line appliances have the same failure points as their $150 counter part. I didn't even have to buy new switches. The top two switched fused and I was able to unstuck them.
Hey. Thanks bud. Fuses was blowing wen door was opened. It was the first switch on the top which was sticky was jammed. After I realeased it stop blowing fuses. Best option is to use a multimeter in diode and check for dead short on the plug lead then disconnect leads to switch.
I waited online for 35 minutes gave my information 3 times to 3 different people and they told me to not use my microwave and wait over two weeks for a repair service for what turned out to be the door switch problem Thanks for the info
Clear, concise and easy to understand video. Thanks very much for your guidance. Because of your video, I was able to fix my non-working microwave with a $1.44 fuse. Thanks for keeping it simple. You have a new subscriber!
Getting to the switches was a huge PIA. I couldn’t get everything unplugged. But, your tutorial was very helpful getting to to that point. I actually didn’t need to change a switch (I couldn’t get them out anyway), but I could see the mechanism had flipped to “open”, and that’s why my door wasn’t latching shut. I probably shouldn’t be messing with anything electrical, as I did manage to get a little shock. But, I appreciate the tutorial gave me a good view of what was behind the panel, etc.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Fuse (20A 250V) .................................. amzn.to/2Ha7Xir
Micro Switch (NO) ................................ amzn.to/2KSqH75
Micro Switch (NC) ................................ amzn.to/2KCPr4v
Micro Switch (COM) ............................. amzn.to/2z6fURv
3 Pack - Switch - NO, NC, COM ........... amzn.to/2YTpuGD
The NC switch is"currently unavailable" on Amazon. I think your video got the GE/LG microwave mafia to "make a visit" to the Amazon seller 😅
I replaced the fuse and it worked for a few days great. Then we opened the door mid cook and it popped. I used a fast acting. 20 amp fuse, that’s what was in there. Should I try a slow blow fuse? To give it a little more resistance? Is there any danger in upgrading to a slow blow fuse, if the same amperage of course
@@financialadvisor1000 Replace the middle door switch. Sometimes it freezes in ON position and short the circle. Later the switch continues to work in a normal way
Teodozia Galchin
I have a Sanyo unit, it went bad , both the turn tables, fan are not turning, checked the middle door switch ,it was stuck on position with either the door is close or open .
Removed the sw ,the sw falling of parts, it’s indicated (NO )so replace with a same switch,and set to a minute,start it up the fuse blows immediately, installed the second fuse it’s did something, I start chasing the wiring of that switch, the white color wire ( natural) run to both of the fan and the light,same as the orange color wiring ( hot) ,run to another end of both fan and light. ? ? ?
If the ( origin) middle door micro switch (NO) was the right one ,my microwave shouldn’t have been working. !
Unfortunately My unit don’t have Schematics, try to look for two weeks,so far have no luck,
I try to disconnect the middle door switch wiring, the light,turn table, the fan are working, but it has loudly and humming noise.
After some research I thought replacing mine would fix the issue. I just replaced my microwave switch as something cause it to fuse together again and trip the breaker.
Dave, you are an excellent instructor, and I am so glad you posted all this helpful information. Many people are great at repairs and have extensive knowledge about the task at hand. But just knowing a lot does NOT make one a great teacher! Your friendly manner and delivery are reassuring to your audience, and your tips about pictures, when to throw in the towel or continue with repairs, and how to save money are so appreciated. Thanks for posting this, and keep teaching us!
Dave, I wanted to thank you for taking the time to produce this very informative video. I have been in the automotive and motorcycle repair business for over four decades. Even though I would consider myself mechanically gifted, I’ve never tackled a microwave repair. Due to the fantastic sage wisdom you provided in this video, I had our microwave repaired in one evening as my local hardware store had the parts in stock to replace the switch and fuse! Thank you again!
This video was 100% spot on. My 2015 Whirlpool microwave stopped working over a week or two. The clock continued to work the entire time but the light would not come on when the door opened. If the light didn't come on then the control panel didn't work either. Wait an hour or so open the door and the light came on, everyting worked again. Might work for a couple days then it stopped working again. Finally it would not work at all. Checked the three switches with meter and one didn't seem right. Removed the switch and took took it apart, it has burnt contacts, but were not welded together. Went on Amazon ordered the 3 switch set total price with shipping and tax $8.28. The replacement switches were the exact same brand and part number as the OEM ones. Installed one switch pit everything back together and it is as good as new. Thanks for making the video it was a big help. I was worried I would break the plastic clips that hold the switch in place but I didn't. Thanks again.
Dave, THANK YOU! I just impressed the heck out of myself by successfully replacing all 3 switches and having my KitchenAid over the range microwave come back to life! A little daunting when you open it up and see all of the wires but your amazingly easy to follow video, a little common sense, a camera, and some patience won the day. I'm one grateful Lady. Can't thank you enough.
Bless you Dave!! You just saved this 1st grade teacher some money!!🙂 I love the way you explain each step completely using great vocabulary, as well as the visuals, and also hints like taking pics with our camera and not purchasing the most expensive replacements!! You're a great "fixer" as my kiddos say, as well as a good teacher. Thanks so much!
Not only you are knowledgeable you are very well spoken very educated proper vocabulary it’s a blessing to see education smart people as your self that makes you wanting to scream thank you kindly 👋🏻🙏🏻
Dave, you just saved me at LEAST $300!!! You were spot on with your directions and I'm a novice on electronic repair. I was able to get the parts on amazon in less than 2 days. I couldn't have done it without you! Thank you SO much ❤
Thanks Dave! I had an F1E4 error on my Whirlpool, Replaced (P/N: HF25F-012H ) relay available on eBay. Less than $10.00 repair, Replaced everything works fine. Thank you for this helpful information.
I have never ever left a comment or review for anything but I had to now. I knew my door switch was bad but I have four of them so determining which one was dreaded. Luckily, I noticed one had the clicking tab locked up and knew ot was the one. Now, where you come in......you said you could unfuse on the inside of the switch and that's exactly what I did. I haven't had my microwave working for about 6 months and I just fixed it, thanks to you!!! I can't tell you how important your small comment about un-fusing actually is. Who knew!! Thank you so very much for bringing that small detail to everyone's attention. YOU'RE AWESOME!!!!
Thanks for the video! My Whirlpool WML55011 showed the F1E4 error. I checked the 3 door switches. All good. I then removed the Control board, checked the 3 relays with a 12V power supply. They clicked. All good! Before I ordered a new board, I decided to re-assembled the unit and guess what: It worked! It must have been one of the connectors, which was not properly seated. Easy fix!
Small world. I just fixed my refrigerator based on your video on the start relay diagnostics and replacement. Then a day later my father in law said his microwave was not working and sent me this video as a reference for ideas on what is wrong. With the thousands of "fix it" videos on RUclips, I found it amazing that he and I both found yours. I am pretty sure it is going to be his door switch and will help him with the repair. A huge thank you from both of us and keep up the great work!! All the best -DT
Thanks Dave! I had an F1E4 on my Whirlpool too but I decided to check the first 2 items you mentioned in your presentation first before looking at the board and sure enough, through process of elimination, the fault was at the bottom door switch. I was fortunate because all I had to do was cycle the switch several times but it will probably have to be changed out eventually. Our family has a habit of opening the door in the middle of the cooking cycle and doing that tends to short out the switches because they are energized. A good practice (and we obviously don't practice this enough) with all Micro hoods is to always press the Cancel button on the control panel before opening the door when the unit is in the middle or near the end of a cook cycle. This will greatly lengthen the life of the door switches due to the fact that they have electrical current running through them during the cook cycle. Thanks again you saved us a ton. I hate changing those units out. That would have been my 4th one.
Very useful information. Thank you
Dave, One of the best video I have ever seen for a DIY repair. Thank you
This video was perfect. I ordered the 3-piece set using your link, got them 2 days later. Had a hunch it was the lower switch giving me problems (after opening the door, the light didn’t come on, as in maybe the switch was sticking). Replaced the lower switch, plugged in microwave, opened door, and the light came on. Two weeks later and still working great. Thank you!
Dave, your video saved me hundreds of $! My issue WAS a jammed switch mechanism but your video showed me how to access the switch area. Thank you very much, keep at! DAN
Finally! Was looking for a video like this for a long time. I was getting the door open/close error and my interior light was sporadically going on and off. When off microwave wasn't working. By opening up the control area and getting a visual of the door switches I noticed that one of the plugs had come undone and was making just a little contact. Plugged it back in securely and now problem solved. Thank you so much!!!
Your video just helped me diagnose and fix my Kenmore OTR microwave, with zero new parts. It was indeed the middle interlock switch that was stuck. Repaired it and I saved either a $249 repair call or potentially a new unit. Thanks so much!
Thank you so much for posting this video. I fixed my microwave for less than $5. Could not have done it without the help from your video. Had to replace one switch.
I found your video by searching "WML550011HS07 error F1E4". I watched the whole video and thought about what you said regarding "...it might be the Fuse or Door Switch" near the end of the video. It took a bit of brainstorming and thinking about 'this & that". In the end, it tuned out to be a stuck door-lock, as you suggested. Thank you.
Wow, was able to get right into my Kenmore over the range micrwave and change out the fuse with no problem. Never could have done it without your video, many thanks.
Thank you! I've been without for a few years! It most likely is a door issue because the light comes on, time can be set. & I can hear the motor!
this worked beautifully thank you!
My very expensive samsung microwave went dead overnight. Turns out I had put a mug with gold plating into it and this burnt out the fuse INSIDE the microwave, not the fuse in the plug as is common in the UK. Lo' and behold, samsungs "recommended service providers" wanted to charge £90 for a call-out fee, just to inspect it (the microwave cost £85). A replacement fuse set of 10 (I only needed 1), cost £6 and this took a little over 5 mins to unscrew, insert and screw back. Will happily buy you a beer sir!
Thank you for these instructions. I just replaced a sensor on my microwave and it is now working perfectly, it saved me $300 from buying a new one. Thanks again
Thank you so much brother. Finally was able to fix my microwave after many months by replacing the door switches. I had replaced the fuses and thermostat fuses earlier but the microwave would still break the electric switch board. Replacing the switches fixed it. Can't thank you enough.
This is a great toaster oven replacement to the one I had for a few years. Easy to use, has all the right controls to cook my food how I would like. Looks great and doesn't take too much counter space. Very happy with my purchase.
Thanks for this video Dave! My microwave is constructed somewhat differently, but of course once I got the top/sides cover off I could see everything I needed to get to. My symptom at first was a turntable that sporadically continued to turn after I opened the door. After about a week the entire unit went dead. Watching your video taught me what I needed to know to diagnose a normally open switch and blown fuse. Ordered both just now and hoping to have them in my hands within 48 hours and the microwave reassembled and working again. I'll followup once that's accomplished with a final result.
48 hours later - parts replaced, unit reassembled and reinstalled. Working! I get to have a hot leftover Chinese meal tonight! Yay!!! There's nothing like the sense of accomplishment when I repair something I've never worked on before. RUclips University wins again!
Dear Dave. Thank you from the bottom of my heart for making this wonderful, wonderful video! Your kind efforts in making this video helped me more than you can ever know. I know to you it may be a simple thing, but I did not even know where my above range microwave was plugged in. Here I sat in despair thinking I would have to find the money to pay a repair person who would then have to tell me my microwave was too expensive to repair. If you had left us a way to send money to YOU I would gladly do so!
Mr. Dave, I forgot to mention I live on Social Security so I do not have extra money. Also I agree with Ms. Bartlett, you ARE an excellent instructor. I would gladly pay some of my limited funds to take a class from YOU!
Thanks, it's always nice to hear comments like this. It's easy to skip over the positive responses and focus on the negative ones.
I'm like you, and everyone else. I just learn from watching other people's youtube video's.
This video helped me diagnose my 2009 Frigidaire FMV152KSA. This model has 3 switches, 2 door open/ closed and 1 light on/off. My bottom open/closed switch wouldn't complete the circuit unless I pushed the door closed just right. When I opened up the microwave to investigate I seen that the bottom switch was just out of reach of completing the circuit, that's why pushing the door extra hard would work. There was flex in the microwave frame that held the switch in place. To compensate for the flex I had to increase the rigidity of the connection. There was 1 factory screw holding the switch in place but there was 2 holes in the bracket and switch. I installed a similar sized screw in the second hole and it solved my issue.
Before trying this I was going to blindly replace the door latch and all 3 switches.
I hope this helps someone with a similar situation.
THANK YOU!!
I was going to be charged $350 JUST to have a Whirlpool repairman come take a look. You led me through this beautifully- signed, a struggling Mama of 3 kids with disabilities. ❤️
That was awesome. Straight to the point. No backstory, clear instructions. Wish I could give it a couple extra thumbs up.
You’re awesome....simple concise direction. I was able to repair my microwave with your video help. Have a great day 🙏🏼😎🔌
Wonderful instructions on troubleshooting microwave problems. This helped me fix my Maytag microwave not starting. My microwave unit power was OK, keys and programming good too. Just idle when start key pressed. After removing covers, discovered one of the door switch was always open circuit. Electrical ohms meter proved switch always open circuit. Shaking the switch, something flapping around and broken inside. Ordered replacement switch from Amazon for $4. Many thanks, keep up the good work !!
My Hamilton Beach Microwave had the door problem and trying to test the switches the fuse blew. Your listed parts worked for me and the microwave works again. Thanks
Be very careful with the high voltage leads (over 2,000 volts) and the charged capacitor. It can kill you even unplugged. Look up how to short the capacitor terminals properly.
I can’t find a video that addresses that. Will gloves help?
@@minnesotajack1 no. Look up how to release the charge in a capacitor. Like the above said, it's dangerous if not handled properly.
@@minnesotajack1 Anything power supply related, like what runs a microwave, or the power supply in a computer, has HUGE capacitors that rapidly store, and then discharge, massive amounts of electricity to supplement and provide more “oomph” than you can get with just your standard 110v line… because of the very nature of them needing to STORE power, they can kill you long after you unplug. I’m not so sure that gloves WOULDN’T help you (in fact I’m certain they would), it’s more so the fact that if you weren’t paying attention, working on something right next to a cap, and you clip one with the un-gloved part of your arm and it decided the mood was right for a good shocking, you’d be dead. That’s just not worth risking period. You need to put them gloves on, grab yourself an insulated screwdriver, and with the ‘wave unplugged you’ll short that screwdriver across the main positive and negative lead internally wherever you can get at it. This should discharge the caps. Keep them gloves on, and remain cautious, as even though it’s likely overkill… I’d much rather your safety precautions be overkill than… you….
Can someone please help me understand something, if I order the com switch will it work for either (NO, NC, and COM) so I won't have to buy all 3?
@@BuckTooth-pl2dc @BuckTooth-pl2dc
The reason replacing just the COM (Common) terminal won't solve your issue is that the functionality of a switch relies on the interaction between all three terminals: NO (Normally Open), NC (Normally Closed), and COM. The COM terminal alone doesn't dictate the switch's action; it's merely the point where the circuit's common line connects.
For a microwave switch, here's what you need to do:
1. Identify the Switch Type: Determine if your microwave uses a simple on/off switch or a more complex changeover switch where COM connects to NO when the switch is activated and to NC when it's not.
2. Check for Faulty Components: Before replacing anything, ensure the issue is indeed with the switch and not elsewhere in the microwave's electrical system.
3. Replace the Entire Switch: If the switch is confirmed faulty, you'll need to replace the entire switch unit, not just one terminal. Microwave switches are usually sold as complete units to maintain safety and functionality standards.
4. Exact Match or Universal Switch: Look for an exact replacement for your microwave model or a universal microwave switch that matches your switch's specifications (check the number of terminals, the switch action, and any model-specific features).
5. Installation: Ensure that you or a professional correctly installs the new switch, connecting the wires to the correct terminals (COM, NO, NC) as per the microwave's design.
Having a fluke or a voltmeter/continuity test would be extremely useful as well!
Safety first!
Great video! Repairman came out and wanted to replace control panel. Did not even look inside. Hubby just opened up the panel and one of the door switches is broken. Thank you!
Your Video is definitely one of the best that I have ever watched on home repairs.
You my friend are an excelent no nonsense instructor.
Thank you for your help.
Thanks for sharing. Lubed the switches with "Deoxit", worked it in, and its back up and working again. Tks
Thanks bro. Just saved me $300 for $10 micro switch. There's only 2 visible latches for Whirlpool but there actually 3 inside. Be careful when disconnecting, it's easy to loose track which connection goes where. Also an older microwave's plastic is brittle so things fall apart while disconnecting the old one. Just hoping for maybe another year with this machine.
Wow thanks for this vid! I had depressed the door latches, door wouldn’t shut so had to manually pull latches back. Upon pulling the bottom one out (so that door could latch-click- shut) the microwave light and screen went out. If you wouldn’t have explained about testing the latches and being so thorough, my $5 fuse fix (yes it was the fuse, not any latches) would have been $300+. Be blessed and thanks again.
Very helpful, thank you! I had the F1E4 error. For what it's worth, I THINK I got the code error from just a loose connection. So for everyone, before buying parts, note: I took out the fuse, checked it (was good), fiddled with the door switches, took our the control panel, and moved and ensured all connections were solid (there was a lot of grease and dust accumulation). I reassembled thinking I'd have to spring for a new relay or control panel, but lo and behold, when I reassembled, the micro worked perfectly fine again. So, I'd say just try tightening all connections before springing for new parts. (I'm prob just lucky!) Thanks again for the vid!
Have the same lucky:)
Alright! you are the second YTer to suggest looking at the fuse if a mv is completely dead. I will check into mine. Too bad I am at work atm! Thanks!
Ten years ago, had home built with pricey Frigidaire "Professional" built in microwave. It failed after three years and I replaced with another, but put it in the attic as possible spare parts. Last week the second one failed. Watched this. 5$ door switch fixed first one, 1$ fuse the second one! Love your practical video.
Thanks! Your video was great and saved me the trouble and cost of buying a new microwave!
Best video that I’ve found on the subject. He covers all pertinent information. Thanks so much. Now I’m gonna tear apart my microwave and see which problem it is. 👍😀
This video saved me! Our Maytag microwave was only a couple years old too.
Door open/close error too. I bought the generic micro switches on Amazon and installed them today. I used the camera to take pictures of the various wires and connectors. Everything went well and I completed the repair in about 40 minutes.
You are brilliant! you made a very very helpful video, explained things well, and moved right along. Looking in comments you have saved people A TON OF MONEY. thank you! none of these are my issue but I am saving your vid for one of these happen - because we know more will break. Thank you again..
Thank you for the video. Along with a GE specific video on how to remove the front panel, I was able to replace the three door switches (without too much cussing!). Funny thing - when I checked the three switches with the multimeter ($10 on Amazon), they all seemed to be working properly. But I put the three new ones in and the microwave oven is working again! Happy wife, Happy life!
Great video. My interior panel cover (the black plastic backing) was significantly different than this one, but once I got that off, I found that it was my three-way (COM) switch on the top door latch (it didn't click). It isn't super easy to maneuver in there, but I got it out the way you showed. Photos are a great idea for remembering which wires go where. $5.00 part from Amazon arrived next day. Put it back together, and voila! I have my microwave back, and saved several hundred dollars since I didn't need to buy a new one. Thanks again!
@Tim Keeton , that interior panel on my Maytag Microwave is also significantly different. It is fastened with that one screw on the bottom, but no top screw, in order to remove the panel and get access to the switches. So I am stuck. 😟. Can you explain how did you remove that panel, since it probably is like mine. Thank you in advance for any response.
@Dave Wirth : Thank you for a very helpful video. 👍
@@xxycom8963 we no longer have the microwave (not due to this issue. Something else “killed” it), so I can’t look at it again. But, if I remember correctly, I think I just had to kind of pull on the top and left side of it because there were tabs that held it in place. I believe that is correct. I looked on top and took out a screw that I thought might be holding it in, but I don’t believe it ended up doing anything. If I recall correctly, removing the black plastic panel was the only difference between the video and my experience. Good luck and let me know if you succeed.
This was a refreshing video. Helpful, to the point, good pace, good info - all the good stuff. Thanks for uploading!
Very good video, well explained. We bought a new LG microwave model, LMV1764ST, AFTER getting it installed and turning it on, I find the control panel doesn't light up at all, and you really need to use a flashlight to see the options and set it to work. I figure it is a wire disconnected somewhere, and was really interested in getting in there to figure it out. I'll try it now, thanks.
I want to thank you 🙏🏾 about the information on the Whirlpool microwave. I had to replace the all three micro switches. One was bad but replaced all. Keep up the good work.
This is most helpful Dave and a lot less expensive than buying a new microhood. Thank You so much Dave. I am now a subscriber to your RUclips Channel
Thank you, I got to the switches and was able to just open the one that wasn’t clicking and was able to unstuck. It worked fine ounce I put everything together, and didn’t even had to buy anything.
Thanks again
Daniel’s Amazing World Same Here!
Thanks, Dave. Very helpful. Mine has sensor tech and keeps saying "open and close door" which of course doesn't work. Sometimes when I leave the door open for a time, the light goes back on and it works again. Until it doesn't. I'll start with the door part.
This was exactly what mine was doing, including usually working once the door was left open for a period of time. it is definitely an issue with the door sensor switch. Recommend just replacing all 3 of them while you have it opened.
Hi Dave, thanks for sharing your tips with these issues. I have a Frigidaire oven that was on a shed without being used for long time. When i took it back to replace a broken one, now the oven won't turn on. No error message or anything like that since the display is not working at all. A guy came and check it and said that there was power going into the oven's circuitry but seems that the main board is toasted and might need replacement. The oven was used only a couple of years so i don't know if is worth to get another board or throw it away and buy a new one.
Thank you so much for your video. I just replaced a fuse and that took care of my problem. You saved me $200. :)
Thanks, I ordered the relays from Amazon then soldered them to the board. Microwave is working fine again!
Yup just like you said it was the fuse that blew out. Times are tough right now and your video is so appreciated. Thank you for making this video and you have a new follower and of course I liked your video. God bless 👍
Liked and subscribed even though ill never watch another microwave video again. I was able to fix mine 30 seconds after I watched this video. The first switch I checked was stuck and with a hard press, I was able to unstick it. Good as new. Thank you Dave.
Thank you, that was it. One off the switch stuck😂😂😂. I really appreciate your instruction. Save me a lot of money during a challenging time like this.
Best video explaining how to fix the fuse issue, thanks for the amazon links.
Close up inserts are very useful, explanatory and appreciated. Well done. Thank you.
Thanks Bro, I watched your video so I changed the door switch and fuse of my microwave and it's working perfectly.
(From Pakistan)
Pulled out the switch, found it was stuck. Got it clicking again, cleaned the contact, but microwave still didn't work! Tried by bypassing the switch, THEN it worked! Turns out the switch was completely shot, no saving it. Waiting on my new switch now. Thanks! Cheap fix, didn't even have to take microwave down off the wall.
Thanks!
Thank you so much for your video 😘
I just fixed my microwave all by my big self with your help 🌹
I too want to thank you for this excellent video. Saved me a bunch of money. Thought I would need to rush out to purchase a new microwave before Christmas. Like the previous comments, my switches tested okay with my multi-tester. Decided to purchase the amazon parts that you recommended and my appliance is back online. Happy Holidays to All
Thank YOu for explaining things. Will be trying the switch and fuses. These days we need to conserve our money for real things like food and rent.
i know. My Whirlpool went down and reviewing here for a low cost fix. I did look at new microwave ovens. WOW! The prices are unbelievable.
Great work Dave , really enjoyed the way you explained this.
Thanks for your help... Your information saved me $500. Luv your channel !!! Looking forward to seeing what you have next 👍 👌 👏
Thanks Dave. I've got the door, light problem. You make it sound easy. I'm going to do this!
Thank you so much for this very thorough and easy to follow video. Saved our microwave (and gave me a quarantine confidence boost at the same time).
the problem i had with our microwave was not any of the ones in this video...but i watched your microwave video anyway because a while back i was installing a whole-house water filter system. i had watched your water-filter installation video and i found your setup to be sensible; i incorporated some of your features into the water system we put in. anyways...the microwave. the turntable wasn't turning and from watching your microwave video i thought about the three switches you mentioned. i had just replaced the plastic door latch switch because it had broken. turns out that the turntable wasn't turning because i hadn't fully inserted one of the switches. your video had made me think about the switches - which turned out to be the issue. the microwave is fixed and that's the case - due to, in part, you taking the time to make your microwave video. interesting how one person's actions can affect another person out there in the world, this time in a positive sense. thank you!
Thank goodness for RUclips videos like this.
Awesome video! Very simple to follow. Somehow a plug came disconnected from my lower switch! Because of this video I was pointed in the right direction.
i guess i have to replace my microwave door switch,, having the same issue with no lights/no heating/no magnetron heating sound.. but rest all ok.. Thanks for your short n clear explanation...
Great video. 2 year old. Our new home microwave lasted 9 months old. Currently, My older microwave from 2009 just gave out. Unfortunately my magnetron magnet crack by overheating. Tear and wear Blowing the fuse by overheat. Fuse search found me your video 👍
Great video! Saved a bunch of cash and only took a few minutes to replace the switches. Thanks!
Thank you Dave, fixed the open/close door error... I cleaned the dirty contacts and surfaces you recommended, it works like new!
God Bless you, your video was very helpful 👍🙏
Thanks man. I resell different electronics. Had 2 microwaves worth $300 plus each and now I can sell them for more profit than just for parts.
Thanks Dave for the detail instructions ! You save my day !
Thank you Dave for the nice explanation ,I will try the door switch issue by replacing the click switch,Thanks again.👍
Thanks for your clear and helpful information. My Whirlpool microwave door switch was bad.
Easy inexpensive fix.
Thanks so much for this video. I was able to repair my door switches for $10!!!!
Good video presentation for replacing microwave switches. Easy to following with clear explanation. He is professional.! THX.
Fantastic explanation...great instructor.
Man, it really helps. Thank you very much Chief. Cheers from Indonesia.
Good Video, you covered it all and simple to understand. Thank you. Keep up the good work.
Also,
If your microwave isn’t turning on, check the fuse box before purchasing a new fuse!
Worked for me!
Thank you. I found this video to be super helpful. I had a door switch fault. It required more travel to engage the mechanism than the door latch was capable of, presumably due to a fatiguing spring. I was able to place a 1 mm piece of plastic in the switch mechanism to decrease the travel required, and it now works perfectly. I will order a new one as well, because I assume the spring will fail soon. 👍👍
Thank you. Our door switch is getting glitchy, so I know what to look for. Great!
This video saved me about a thousand dollar. Top of the line appliances have the same failure points as their $150 counter part. I didn't even have to buy new switches. The top two switched fused and I was able to unstuck them.
thank you so much boss... i fix my microwave because of your vid ... more blessing to come
Hey. Thanks bud. Fuses was blowing wen door was opened. It was the first switch on the top which was sticky was jammed. After I realeased it stop blowing fuses. Best option is to use a multimeter in diode and check for dead short on the plug lead then disconnect leads to switch.
I waited online for 35 minutes gave my information 3 times to 3 different people and they told me to not use my microwave and wait over two weeks for a repair service for what turned out to be the door switch problem Thanks for the info
Clear, concise and easy to understand video. Thanks very much for your guidance. Because of your video, I was able to fix my non-working microwave with a $1.44 fuse. Thanks for keeping it simple. You have a new subscriber!
Wonderful !
Thank you for your diligently service to learn us
Getting to the switches was a huge PIA. I couldn’t get everything unplugged. But, your tutorial was very helpful getting to to that point. I actually didn’t need to change a switch (I couldn’t get them out anyway), but I could see the mechanism had flipped to “open”, and that’s why my door wasn’t latching shut. I probably shouldn’t be messing with anything electrical, as I did manage to get a little shock. But, I appreciate the tutorial gave me a good view of what was behind the panel, etc.