I used one of these in an mst 206 it stripped the spline off the end of the axle I may try welding but really like the looks of the DOC locker 2.0 that Doc Sprocket invented
I am fairly certain that you could have left all the gears just as they were and just added the locker between the carrier gears. This would have tied the axles together and left the spider gears still driving the axles instead of just relying only on the coupler to drive the end of the axles, and thus breaking axle the ends.
Hey nice idea 💡 but what do when you bust off splines at end axle inside transmission like I did pulling Trailer or heavier loads think strain on axle shaft won't hold up well, mmm
The only reason your pin doesn't fit is because your snap ring grooves are to far apart. You want to match them to the original position of the backside of the pinion gears. The ends of the axle should just touch the pin so they don't move in and out more than .005 of an inch.
steve lecain this way I ended up twisting the end of the axel. This time I just put it in as far as the axel gear goes on and I haven't broken it yet. Even with reverse to 5th gear wheelies lol
Does Locking the diffential cut your turning radius and have you tried using limited slip clutch bearings to maintain turning radius and power to both axles?
I used a bench grinder to grind down the axles ends a bit. Also ground out a bit of the pin in the middle.Now the locker is also holding onto the other splines also. Been in mower for two months and no problems
@@rodneybrand8521 : Better to correct the axle spacing issue. Just need to widen the snap-ring grooves a few thousandths. Flat sides on the pin might allow assembly, but the axle spacing being wrong may cause problems at the wheel. Think about it, You have to have room for the inner and outer thrust washers the wheel hub, and the outer snap ring. That wont be there if the axles are too far inboard.
You are not going to be able to drill the end of a hardened shaft. The drill bit is going to bind as it is cutting on only one side of the bit. If you are going to use that splined coupler, measure and grind the shaft ends down. A better alternative is to make a longer coupler (no spline) almost the width of the cavity leaving enough space for a bead weld around each shaft. Forget the snap rings and washers. Once welded the axles will be held in place by the pin going through the coupler and the ring gear. The axles will also be in their original positions. A coupler can be cut from solid stock and drill the holes through. A lot cheaper then ordering a splined coupler and it will be fail proof.
Would it be better to just grind them down or cut the tips off as opposed to use to drill bit? Because of all the washers and stuff once the axle is in there it's not going to go any further in right?
Not bad. If I were to do this, I would get rid of a bunch of the washers to make room for a couple of shaft lock collars- a better way of retaining the axles, in my opinion. how much did you pay for that "spool"?
Sprocket's Garage $50 on eBay. look up peerless no weld locker. and I had that same thought. this way tho u only need to buy the locker. most should have a hand full of washers. but your right lock collars would be better.
I agree with you that the manufacturer of this product should made them longer so they use the entirety of the splines on the axleshafts and just thrust washers.
John Gouker this is the part number for a 16 spline coupler. It fits a Peerless 700 on a Toro Midline Pro. It is a Toro part number 51-4260 $36 plus shipping. You can probably get it cheaper off of Amazon
seen this before as well though about it but i asked about it on the mower racing group they said to "steer away" from it at all cost. So i did lol im still a tiny ways off from considering locking mine but when i do ill probably just weld mine up and have a spare for back up when it ignites on me
Your looking for trouble using that useless over iPad paper wight. Your only using 20% of the axel the other 80% isn't being used. There's a reason all those splines are there. You gonna twist the end of that axel right off. Other easy way is a 3rd spider gear and that's free. But it has to come from the same kinda rear. That's best, that will never fail you. Good luck with that rear bud
Those axles are hardened and drilling them will be a bitch just grind off the end of the axles to clear but make sure not to get them that hot little at a time.
Kaleb Norris I will get that one running and moving come spring I'm hoping. I really like that one too just the hole set up. drive shaft in line two cylinder. only down side is speed. but I'm thinking a crawler for that one
+Daniel Brown - The whole point doing this is for *Off Road / Muddling Mower* . The Risk of breaking the Axle are high and I agree with you 100%. But that is the price you pay for is, *fun* . Also, they sell the Axle at Tractor Supply you can replace easily..., that is the last worry... It's the Gears, that is hard to get.
there is absolutely nothing wrong with running an open transaxle first of all second of all when are you going to put up the video of you drill into hardened axles at the same time?
All terrain Lawn tractors and more I had fun with an open diff at first. but on pavement I could burn that inside tire in a corner till the cows came home. Sounds fun, but lean the wrong way and it would hook up and do a wheelie and threaten to toss you off. As it is you’re trying to turn a corner and all of a sudden it goes straight and wheelies, it could fill your shorts. A handful of times of that and I decided to lock it
"And you're done" Five minutes later. "And you're done" Five minutes later. "And you're done" Five minutes later. "And you're done" LOL. I think you don't know the meaning of that phrase. LOL
Bearded Muddah no shit it's just a phrase that means you are done but it is always said at the end when you are actually done. That's not a figure of speech. A figure of speech is "You can't hold a good man down." Of course you can hold him down but it means that he will get back up and overcome. You just said and you are done yet you were no where close to being done. And what's holding up? That phrase? LOL. Yeah people say it all the time when they are done with somthing. LOL
I only meant ur done with that part of course you have to fucking put it back together!! But I wasnt making a video on how to take it apart or how to out it together. Just on how I did it wow some people!
I used one of these in an mst 206 it stripped the spline off the end of the axle I may try welding but really like the looks of the DOC locker 2.0 that Doc Sprocket invented
I am fairly certain that you could have left all the gears just as they were and just added the locker between the carrier gears. This would have tied the axles together and left the spider gears still driving the axles instead of just relying only on the coupler to drive the end of the axles, and thus breaking axle the ends.
Hey nice idea 💡 but what do when you bust off splines at end axle inside transmission like I did pulling Trailer or heavier loads think strain on axle shaft won't hold up well, mmm
The only reason your pin doesn't fit is because your snap ring grooves are to far apart. You want to match them to the original position of the backside of the pinion gears. The ends of the axle should just touch the pin so they don't move in and out more than .005 of an inch.
nice job man, did not know those were available,but i will be looking.thanks for the info, excellent video too man.
steve lecain this way I ended up twisting the end of the axel. This time I just put it in as far as the axel gear goes on and I haven't broken it yet. Even with reverse to 5th gear wheelies lol
I wouldn't use those locker bad idea
great video. easy to fallow
Does Locking the diffential cut your turning radius and have you tried using limited slip clutch bearings to maintain turning radius and power to both axles?
I used a bench grinder to grind down the axles ends a bit. Also ground out a bit of the pin in the middle.Now the locker is also holding onto the other splines also. Been in mower for two months and no problems
I would grind flats on pin not drill axle ends but Good video.
My thought exactly..axel shaft is brittle..🇺🇸🇺🇸
@@rodneybrand8521 : Better to correct the axle spacing issue. Just need to widen the snap-ring grooves a few thousandths. Flat sides on the pin might allow assembly, but the axle spacing being wrong may cause problems at the wheel. Think about it, You have to have room for the inner and outer thrust washers the wheel hub, and the outer snap ring. That wont be there if the axles are too far inboard.
You are not going to be able to drill the end of a hardened shaft. The drill bit is going to bind as it is cutting on only one side of the bit. If you are going to use that splined coupler, measure and grind the shaft ends down. A better alternative is to make a longer coupler (no spline) almost the width of the cavity leaving enough space for a bead weld around each shaft. Forget the snap rings and washers. Once welded the axles will be held in place by the pin going through the coupler and the ring gear. The axles will also be in their original positions. A coupler can be cut from solid stock and drill the holes through. A lot cheaper then ordering a splined coupler and it will be fail proof.
Would it be better to just grind them down or cut the tips off as opposed to use to drill bit? Because of all the washers and stuff once the axle is in there it's not going to go any further in right?
I ended up grinding them to fit.
Not bad. If I were to do this, I would get rid of a bunch of the washers to make room for a couple of shaft lock collars- a better way of retaining the axles, in my opinion. how much did you pay for that "spool"?
Sprocket's Garage $50 on eBay. look up peerless no weld locker. and I had that same thought. this way tho u only need to buy the locker. most should have a hand full of washers. but your right lock collars would be better.
I agree with you that the manufacturer of this product should made them longer so they use the entirety of the splines on the axleshafts and just thrust washers.
I bought one of these last year, still haven't used it. Probably will do the doc locker 2.0.
how many splines are the shaft and where did you get your coupler?
Part #’s for the spline coupler would be nice ! And , Do you have to trim both axels ?
John Gouker this is the part number for a 16 spline coupler. It fits a Peerless 700 on a Toro Midline Pro. It is a Toro part number
51-4260
$36 plus shipping. You can probably get it cheaper off of Amazon
hi friend
may I ask what is this modification you made for?
thank you
fifty dollars cheaper to weld,,right off,whats gonna keep the axels from sliding out?
Would this work in a spicer
What are the torque specs for the 1/4" case bolts ?
Not a clue lol I just go till I think it might strip out
seen this before as well though about it but i asked about it on the mower racing group they said to "steer away" from it at all cost. So i did lol im still a tiny ways off from considering locking mine but when i do ill probably just weld mine up and have a spare for back up when it ignites on me
Big'n89 don't weld. Just order a matching spider gear. Add it to the configuration and you are done. It locks it right up.
Big'n89 oh and you don't want to weld on hardened steal.
Your looking for trouble using that useless over iPad paper wight. Your only using 20% of the axel the other 80% isn't being used. There's a reason all those splines are there. You gonna twist the end of that axel right off. Other easy way is a 3rd spider gear and that's free. But it has to come from the same kinda rear. That's best, that will never fail you. Good luck with that rear bud
Those axles are hardened and drilling them will be a bitch just grind off the end of the axles to clear but make sure not to get them that hot little at a time.
Ya lol I figured that out quick.
how do you find this doc locker i went on e bay did not find
Wouldn't it be faster just grinding the ends of the shafts off ? Or cut them off with an angle grinder? Drilling those ends off would be dangerous
okay you said in the video you were going to put them in your drill press and drill them
Nice vid man how's the Honda
Kaleb Norris still waiting on parts and the cash for them lol
Bearded Muddah lol man that's all the problems lol but I things that's my favorite tractor u have I don't now why
Kaleb Norris I will get that one running and moving come spring I'm hoping. I really like that one too just the hole set up. drive shaft in line two cylinder. only down side is speed. but I'm thinking a crawler for that one
Bearded Muddah what a big speeder goes fast or just a mud mower though big mud holes
Seems like you turned this into just a weaker version of a solid axle and defeated the point of having a differential at all.
Guessing drilling was a total failure, and you took the axles to a bench grinder?
ton B never even tryed to drill it out figured grind was ezer.
ton B and I just used an angle grinder and a vise
If the company that made the locker had made it longer it would not break the axel
+Daniel Brown - The whole point doing this is for *Off Road / Muddling Mower* . The Risk of breaking the Axle are high and I agree with you 100%. But that is the price you pay for is, *fun* . Also, they sell the Axle at Tractor Supply you can replace easily..., that is the last worry... It's the Gears, that is hard to get.
Take a washer out and the pin will fit their chief
Fuck that Lincoln locker FTW
there is absolutely nothing wrong with running an open transaxle first of all second of all when are you going to put up the video of you drill into hardened axles at the same time?
Mower Outlaw open will work and many do it however locked is undeniable better
All terrain Lawn tractors and more I had fun with an open diff at first.
but on pavement I could burn that inside tire in a corner till the cows came home.
Sounds fun, but lean the wrong way and it would hook up and do a wheelie and threaten to toss you off.
As it is you’re trying to turn a corner and all of a sudden it goes straight and wheelies, it could fill your shorts.
A handful of times of that and I decided to lock it
MrHillfolk so basically you just don't know how to work a tractor. Got it. LOL
Hell the back axles are easy to drill. Try drilling the front spindle. I'm still trying.
Motley Crue isn’t the background 😂
Got to have music playing and all times I can't think lmfaov
Hahaha good video man
I need a link i searched it on ebay and theirs no searches....
Peter Lombardi I can't find it now ether. I do have an extra one I would sell u hit me up on my Facebook group bearded muddahs basement
I don’t understand what’s wrong with just welding it.
Welding would be faster and more reliable though 😂😂😂
"And you're done"
Five minutes later.
"And you're done"
Five minutes later.
"And you're done"
Five minutes later.
"And you're done"
LOL. I think you don't know the meaning of that phrase. LOL
Aztec Warrior just a figure of speech. And it really don't take long to do and still holding up!!
Bearded Muddah no shit it's just a phrase that means you are done but it is always said at the end when you are actually done. That's not a figure of speech. A figure of speech is "You can't hold a good man down." Of course you can hold him down but it means that he will get back up and overcome. You just said and you are done yet you were no where close to being done.
And what's holding up? That phrase? LOL. Yeah people say it all the time when they are done with somthing. LOL
I only meant ur done with that part of course you have to fucking put it back together!! But I wasnt making a video on how to take it apart or how to out it together. Just on how I did it wow some people!