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Welding would be faster and more reliable though 😂😂😂

how many splines are the shaft and where did you get your coupler?

I used a bench grinder to grind down the axles ends a bit. Also ground out a bit of the pin in the middle.Now the locker is also holding onto the other splines also. Been in mower for two months and no problems

fifty dollars cheaper to weld,,right off,whats gonna keep the axels from sliding out?

My Husqvarna lawn tractor had 160 hours on it and I got the bug to service its tranny. When I contacted my local dealer, he told me also that those trannies are factory sealed and not meant to be serviced. At any rate, I still went ahead and swapped out the tranny oil with 5w-50 full synthetic. Apparently, the homeowner tractor models don't have any drain or fill plugs like the commercial grade ones.

Take a washer out and the pin will fit their chief

Wouldn't it be faster just grinding the ends of the shafts off ? Or cut them off with an angle grinder? Drilling those ends off would be dangerous

Well it looks like not only we both have 40 year old tractors, but we’re both house painters do you think there’s a connection here buddy. I have a 1985 Ropper with a twin opposed never did anything to it but change the starter in 38 years you could see it on my channel if you’re still interested looks like you haven’t been on for a while

how do you find this doc locker i went on e bay did not find

I don’t understand what’s wrong with just welding it.

Hey nice idea 💡 but what do when you bust off splines at end axle inside transmission like I did pulling Trailer or heavier loads think strain on axle shaft won't hold up well, mmm

I would be interested to know how long the K46 will last if the fluid is changed at, say, every 50 hours.

Not the lockers fault. 3/4" axles just can't handle the abuse.

Seems like you turned this into just a weaker version of a solid axle and defeated the point of having a differential at all.

hi friend may I ask what is this modification you made for? thank you

have you made any videos lately

Was it hard to lock the rear?

Does Locking the diffential cut your turning radius and have you tried using limited slip clutch bearings to maintain turning radius and power to both axles?

I here you bro thanks

Wow, I can't believe JD tries to claim the K46 isn't serviceable! It's a very serviceable transmission. I had heard about this before, but I assumed they were talking about the GT RS800 plastic transmission which really isn't very serviceable except for a few things. I didn't know that they were talking about the K46. As far as I understand all Tuff Torq transmissions are fully serviceable. I know from the K66 and up they are, but I'm pretty sure the K46 is also. This is one of the many many reasons why you should always go orange!!!

You don't have to drop the transmission Remove the deck Jack up the back and remove the rear left tire You can access the cap and siphon out the fluid and then refill with new fluid.

I just need to take the top half off of my diff off and replace the drive shaft bearing up in the tower. It is squealing like mad. I just want to use this unit as a lawn tractor as I pull a little trailer with it. No mowing. I have a zero turn for that. I had not thought of welding the spiders however since I have to remove the top half I am going to do that. No worries about tire scrubbing on the lawn. Us motorheads have to stick together. lol I'll be the first guy on the block with a posi lawn tractor.

Would this work in a spicer

Don't blame John Deere they didn't make the transaxle. Tuff Torq made the transaxle they say it's nonserviceable.

I have one 6 speed it's old and still good just sitting

They told me the same thing about my x304. Did the same thing you did and used 5w 50 synthetic oil. I've never had another problem out of it.

Same as D105?

Considering doing this this spring or summer. As I'm sure my fluid has never been changed. It is a 2001 JD

Lol "if you can't pull the deck off don't do this". True enough

I’m sure as long as you don’t abuse the motor and beat the crap out of it. I’m sure the thing will last forever. I mean come on those chairs are design to lift overweight people out of the chairs. Some have weight limits of like 500-600 or plus lbs. sure the tracker weights things but your only lifting about half of the at a time. So just treat it good and I’m sure it will treat you good

I am fairly certain that you could have left all the gears just as they were and just added the locker between the carrier gears. This would have tied the axles together and left the spider gears still driving the axles instead of just relying only on the coupler to drive the end of the axles, and thus breaking axle the ends.

Deere a bunch of Southies

Tuff torque factory will be fire bombed. What bell-end POS figured 190 hours is satisfactory life?

*Deere

Fuck that Lincoln locker FTW

That's an opposed twin I'd hold onto to that bub they're solid as fuck

Just because you put new fluid in doesn't mean it is repaired.

Part #’s for the spline coupler would be nice ! And , Do you have to trim both axels ?

You are not going to be able to drill the end of a hardened shaft. The drill bit is going to bind as it is cutting on only one side of the bit. If you are going to use that splined coupler, measure and grind the shaft ends down. A better alternative is to make a longer coupler (no spline) almost the width of the cavity leaving enough space for a bead weld around each shaft. Forget the snap rings and washers. Once welded the axles will be held in place by the pin going through the coupler and the ring gear. The axles will also be in their original positions. A coupler can be cut from solid stock and drill the holes through. A lot cheaper then ordering a splined coupler and it will be fail proof.

Your looking for trouble using that useless over iPad paper wight. Your only using 20% of the axel the other 80% isn't being used. There's a reason all those splines are there. You gonna twist the end of that axel right off. Other easy way is a 3rd spider gear and that's free. But it has to come from the same kinda rear. That's best, that will never fail you. Good luck with that rear bud

tuff torq trans junk

John Deer has always lied to their customer base. That's why I never owned one nor will I.

The only reason your pin doesn't fit is because your snap ring grooves are to far apart. You want to match them to the original position of the backside of the pinion gears. The ends of the axle should just touch the pin so they don't move in and out more than .005 of an inch.

I called a service center about the K46 trans and they told me they don’t service the trans they just replace them with a new One. The guy stated it would cost to much for the service center to try and rebuild the trans. Makes sense to me but to say it’s not serviceable is a pure lie. Tuff Torq who builds the trans for John Deere offers a rebuilding kit or parts for the K46. So to say it’s not serviceable is a laugh.

I would just weld the locker in there and call it a day

What are the torque specs for the 1/4" case bolts ?

I’ll never buy another jd, ANYTHING. Will this be the same in the LA135?

great video. easy to fallow

you guys should be in Lebanon maine..you'd fit right in//lol

Please come back and put out some video