05 - Installing insulated joints on pre-installed train track

We are insulating a section of model train track that has already been installed on the layout. We needed to break the circuit quite close to a turnout switch that has already been wired in. Cutting the track and filling the slots with non conductive material was easier than ripping up the track and turnout.

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

Well done, you have some great videos and you've done a great job editing them together and with the voice over. They are a pleasure to watch. I'm looking forward to following the progress of the layout.
Cheers
Luke.

[@chestateegold]

Great vid, I sure appreciate it!
Greetings from the US

[@charlie1872]

Thanks for sharing this. I have a number of points on my layout and find that locos on adjacent track have a tendency to creep, if you know what I mean. do you have another video that explains the logic of why and placement of the isolated joints.? I know it should be obvious but...😀Thanks

[@charlie1872]

Could you explain the reason why that particular location required isolating?
Do you not need a toggle or something to switch power?
I need to isolate sone of my track as I am experiencing creeping on adjacent line.
Thanks
Charlie

[@jmnienab]

Great video -- what type of adhesive did you use to glue the insulators to the track?

[@InsertEpicArtistHere]

Would this work without the plastic joiner?

[@flyboy2610]

Metal rail can expand and contract with changes in temperature and humidity. The plastic serves as an insulator to ensure that the rail ends never make contact. Some small bits of styrene plastic work well, also.

[@davidcurtis5398]

@@flyboy2610 I use the styrene plastic and only glue one side. I usually install most of the filers (insulation) in the summer when the track is as expanded as it will be. Then in the winter it will contract and I will have only a small gap. This way the track will never buckle. Works for me...