The world of track isolation and providing power to required sections of track can be very daunting and confusing, to say the least. You have explained and demonstrated it really well for the purposes of a beginner like myself. I like your track layout too. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
@@Richardsrailway iv done it thanks to you... had 4 long sidings now cut each track in 2 places. So i can have 3 class 66 in a row and able to move 1 and the other 2 will stay . This has been the most useful video iv watched thank you
I'm running DCC, so don't have a problem with isolating locos, but I do have a set of coaches with lights. Excellent idea to isolate power to the coaches in a siding. I'm onto it thanks.
Trying to isolate 3 pieces of track down the side of my loco shed but the end piece of track near the buffers isolates fine but the other 2 switches do not have any impact, no matter which way I switch it. No idea what I am doing wrong. Would be over the moon if it worked as well as yours.
Hi Richard, picked up some switches, wiring etc and will start isolating. Gave you a shout out a shirt while ago. Have a nice weekend. How can I send you John’s address?
Normally , something such as a headhunt or sidings would be best practice, as a passing loop for example is isolated from the switches ( points ) either end , on a main line you could technically, so this is for DC btw . On a main line you wouldn’t normally have loco isolated at a stand and one energized in rear of or in advance. Hope that answers your question ? Regards , Richard .
Just begin with a outer loop, a inner loop and in the big empty space in the middle, a shunting yard. That's 3 layouts to work with. Next step is to join these 3 layouts to 1 layout with switches, fish plates and controllers. What you will end up with is taking one train from the yard to the outer loop, one train from the yard to the inner loop and one train for shunting in the yard. That will keep you busy for a long time and even longer then you have decided for a layout and now way to personally "model" it with ballast, grass, trees and buildings, not to mention painting and weathering. All in all, that should keep you busy, for a long, long time. And also make a big, big hole in your wallet. Good luck!
What a beautiful layout you have there. Thanks for the great isolating tip. I did notice the wires coming back to your track were red and black. Correct me if i am wrong but shouldn't they both be the same colour ???? Isn't it one wire that reconnects the circuit ?? I am certainly not criticising what you've done as you obviously know what your doing. Its only I have the similar problem and I don't want to cut the track and do it wrong ha ha ha ha. All the very best and thanks again for the tip. Duncan.
Hello Duncan . I just used what wire I had available at that time , you could remove a fishplate and open that section up slightly to create a gap as such or just make a small cut as I did . The layout sadly no longer exists as I had to move house against my will . I’ve recently built a smaller layout .
Can you explain/demo where the wires go to? I assume they go to your switch but do they then go to your main wire to tge controller? Thanks for indulging me Charlie
Hi Charlie , ok first you’ll need to use a simple ON/OFF switch . Connect one side of the gap to one side of the switch , the remaining wire on the other side of the gap goes to the remaining side of the ON/OFF switch thus. ./ . ( open) .-. ( closed ) . No need to connect any further wires to your controller , you will only need to run the wire’s from the “ cut section “ to wherever you place your ON/OFF switch . A good idea is to label your switch once installed to denote what section it isolates! Good luck . Cheers Ta . Richard
Technically yes , but the idea is you could easily flick the switch as soon as the second loco was over the isolated gap . But in theory you’d only have one live loco and the loco the other side of the gap would be dead , or add another gap and secondary switch if it’s a really long headshunt say .
The world of track isolation and providing power to required sections of track can be very daunting and confusing, to say the least. You have explained and demonstrated it really well for the purposes of a beginner like myself. I like your track layout too. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
this video is just what I was looking for !!!!!! you have solved everything cheers bud
Jamie Bennallack welcome ! Have fun
@@Richardsrailway iv done it thanks to you... had 4 long sidings now cut each track in 2 places. So i can have 3 class 66 in a row and able to move 1 and the other 2 will stay . This has been the most useful video iv watched thank you
Jamie Bennallack excellent! Happy modeling , stay safe buddy
Cool trick.
Thank you for sharing.
I thought not so i have just been doing the same as you said, brilliant it works a treat and so simple when you know. Haha. Thank you very much.
David Shallcross no problem , let’s all enjoy the hobby ! Stay safe . Regards , Richard .
Good work Thank you for sharing Pat Quinn IRL
I'm running DCC, so don't have a problem with isolating locos, but I do have a set of coaches with lights. Excellent idea to isolate power to the coaches in a siding. I'm onto it thanks.
Richard Swallow no worries!
Trying to isolate 3 pieces of track down the side of my loco shed but the end piece of track near the buffers isolates fine but the other 2 switches do not have any impact, no matter which way I switch it. No idea what I am doing wrong. Would be over the moon if it worked as well as yours.
Cool video and nice looking layout. Tx.
Hi Richard, picked up some switches, wiring etc and will start isolating. Gave you a shout out a shirt while ago.
Have a nice weekend. How can I send you John’s address?
Nice layout and Very interesting. Would it be possible to do this on a main line, say under scenery so u cld ru n two locos on one track.....
Normally , something such as a headhunt or sidings would be best practice, as a passing loop for example is isolated from the switches ( points ) either end , on a main line you could technically, so this is for DC btw . On a main line you wouldn’t normally have loco isolated at a stand and one energized in rear of or in advance. Hope that answers your question ? Regards , Richard .
@@Richardsrailway Many thks
Great tip.
Amazing layout!
Would you mind sharing the layout plans or build steps?
I just getting into the hobby and trying to decide on al layout.
Just begin with a outer loop, a inner loop and in the big empty space in the middle, a shunting yard.
That's 3 layouts to work with.
Next step is to join these 3 layouts to 1 layout with switches, fish plates and controllers.
What you will end up with is taking one train from the yard to the outer loop, one train from the yard to the inner loop and one train for shunting in the yard.
That will keep you busy for a long time and even longer then you have decided for a layout and now way to personally "model" it with ballast, grass, trees and buildings, not to mention painting and weathering.
All in all, that should keep you busy, for a long, long time.
And also make a big, big hole in your wallet.
Good luck!
What a beautiful layout you have there.
Thanks for the great isolating tip. I did notice the wires coming back to your track were red and black. Correct me if i am wrong but shouldn't they both be the same colour ????
Isn't it one wire that reconnects the circuit ??
I am certainly not criticising what you've done as you obviously know what your doing.
Its only I have the similar problem and I don't want to cut the track and do it wrong ha ha ha ha.
All the very best and thanks again for the tip.
Duncan.
Hello Duncan . I just used what wire I had available at that time , you could remove a fishplate and open that section up slightly to create a gap as such or just make a small cut as I did . The layout sadly no longer exists as I had to move house against my will . I’ve recently built a smaller layout .
Can you explain/demo where the wires go to? I assume they go to your switch but do they then go to your main wire to tge controller?
Thanks for indulging me
Charlie
Hi Charlie , ok first you’ll need to use a simple ON/OFF switch . Connect one side of the gap to one side of the switch , the remaining wire on the other side of the gap goes to the remaining side of the ON/OFF switch thus. ./ . ( open) .-. ( closed ) . No need to connect any further wires to your controller , you will only need to run the wire’s from the “ cut section “ to wherever you place your ON/OFF switch . A good idea is to label your switch once installed to denote what section it isolates! Good luck . Cheers Ta . Richard
Thanks so much Richard, I thought it would be so much more complicated👍
I was thinking about removing one of the fishplate, to make an isolation that way.
What make of uncoupler are you using there please?
Hornby
PLEASE MAKE A VIDEO OF HOW TO WIRE THIS!!
does It not matter that the wires are red and black on the same line
David Shallcross , no because there is a break both physically and electrically
So at 10:50, you have 2 isolated locos, what happens when you throw the switch to re energise that price of track, surely both locos move?
Technically yes , but the idea is you could easily flick the switch as soon as the second loco was over the isolated gap . But in theory you’d only have one live loco and the loco the other side of the gap would be dead , or add another gap and secondary switch if it’s a really long headshunt say .
@@Richardsrailway Thanks, just busy laying out a track, wondered if i had missed something.