Imagine if someone used rounds like that in a crime and they pulled the round and found a whole shell in them like those animations of whole cartridges flying out the barrel.😅
Dude, I will send you 3-400 cases of 5.7x28 brass. Just tell me where to send it. Also, to knock off the coating, you can use steel pins in a tumble washer. If you wanted to prolong the life of the barrel, coat them in boron nitride, even powder coating, or adding bullet lube would help. The bearing surface of a bullet is directly related to the pressure wave behind it. The faster wear on a barrel is also directly related to the type of steel and steel thickness. Harmonics are caused by ignition, but contrary to popular belief, it isn't the heat of the powder and gas which causes a barrel to heat rapidly. It is the rapid expansion of the steel of the barrel as the pressure wave travels down the barrel and dissipates. This expansion/contraction heats the steel much faster than just the hot gas. It's closer to 18,600fps compared to a bullet travelling at only, for example 2650-2950, out of most 30 caliber base cartridges like 308, 303, & 6.5 Creedmoor. There are quite a few expert barrel makers on Erik Cortina's channel, Believe the Target, who explain harmonics well, and Bryan Litz's Applied Ballistic books also discuss this to some length. Erik even has the guy who originally applied harmonic tuners to rifle barrels. He learned about it as a kid hitting radio tower guy wires and listening to the twang sound. That was his first introduction. This is one reason moly or boron nitride coated bullets extend a barrel's life. They are slick so the pressure wave doesn't expand the barrel as much due to the friction of the bearing surface being reduced.
You seem to be the person to ask this, but because they are also "open ended" like hollow point and lead filled, wouldn't the "squish" of the lead have some play to not be so harsh in engaging the rifling?
Bingo! and AMEN. Just like compressed air, or hydraulic fliud! Pressure make things Hot! Oh WAIT thats how a diesel works, another moment And a Jet Turbin? So they say. I'm working out a diesel affect, anti humidity, less fouling, or corrosion AMP for my muzzle loaders mixed into the propellant loke a f.o.b? I have watched Large steam lines jump and dance when a slug of condensation hits a turn, why not a barrel?
There is no better feeling than discovering things that unintentionally fit perfectly and going "Fuck it, let's see how far this can go" and it works incredibly
Helpful hint when cutting threads in Aluminum with a die use automatic transmission fluid as a lubricant. It works amazing my grandpa taught me that when I was about ten years old in 1980. Awesome concept I love this!!
An 80ish year old machinist in the early 1970's taught me to use Prestone antifreeze for a great solution on machining aluminum for superior finishes in lathe work. But if your process happens to create a mist or spray don't breathe it.
Sort of like turducken. Now I want to see a shell fired from a shell in a shell. Sorry I accidentally posted in the wrong comment section. Damnit now I got to look for the post in a sea of other comments.
Speer bullets started as a small business selling tools to reform spent 22lr cases into 223 bullet jackets for home reloaders. I’ve also seen 9mm cases formed into 40 S&W bullets and 40 S&W cases formed into 45 acp bullets.
I've used similar methods to make .458 bullets out of .308 cases. The thing i noticed was that it takes a lot more powder to drive them to the same speed as lead bullets with the same weight and seating depth. This is when given the same space for powder in the .458 case. Hence pressure can probably spike if you are close to max loads. The same applies to most solids so it's not new knowledge, but worth mention to new re-loaders. There is probably a good idea to anneal the 5,7 cases after forming to reduce the work hardness of the brass. Should increase performance, reduce barrel wear and lower pressure.
That is good to know about it taking more powder to drive them to the same velocities. Thanks for this. I was wondering why he didn't anneal the cases myself as I've read this was a necessary step.
Using stuff others consider junk in a way that is EFFECTIVE, LOW COST and Unique are the HALLMARKS of a Great Mind. I go to ranges sometimes and pick up brass to reload, I own a Ruger 57 and plan on getting a carbine Rifle to complete the set. I know you are getting hate for doing this because 5.7 x 28mm can be hard to find and EXPENSIVE! Some 5.7 brass cannot be reloaded or are just shot out (you can only reload one or more times before the neck of the brass hardens to the point of failure). I am going to try your BRILLIANT plan with some shootout 5.7. Great Vid you have a new Subscriber!
I just got into reloading and am thoroughly impressed by your work. You definitely earned my subscription and I'm very excited to continue watching in the future!
And this here is how better ammo is figured out.. experementation like this... You came up with the question, the hypothesis, the experement, and the best answer you could provide while working with the tools you have... IM IMPRESSED!!!!❤❤❤
Well done. You'll put meat on the table with those if the Zombie Apocalypse happens and you have lots of 5.7x28mm brass. I used .30 Carbine brass (I had several hundred berdan primed brass) to make .357 projectiles. After prep, I loaded with lead shot and sealed with silicone sealant. A guy saw one of them stuck in the wood after shooting and said that something was wrong with my gun as it shot the entire cartridge out.
This is the first time ive seen anything from this channel before. I had to say that the little animation he used to show what steps were being done in the lathe is the most innovative thing ive ever seen on metal or wood working channels. I think most makers assume that you know exactly whats going on and you are following whats being said. Great video. Ive heard of people doing this before and it was nice to see it done for fun. I also heard of people using .22lr brass to form 5.7×28 projectiles for loading. Of course, this was back when only one company was producing the ammo, FN.
Some boattail bullets are shaped a lot like those, instead of straight tapered. They're called Rebated Boattails and David Tubb's high-BC DTAC (David Tubb Advanced Concepts in Ammunition) 6mm 115grain bullet uses it. A rebated boattail bullet obturates faster and more efficiently to the rifle bore. This results in quicker sealing and less gas blow-by. The result is a significant increase in accurate barrel life compared to a diet of conventional boattails. Specifically, the RBT design slows down barrel throat erosion. This erosion results from the "flame-cutting" effect of burning propellant gases, which is intensified by a conventional boattail design. Along with extending the accurate life of a new barrel, this also means that their 115 RBT will perform better in a rifle that's already suffering from throat erosion. During testing with an Oehler 88 at 1000 yards these bullets provided a measured G1 BC of .620! I don't work for David Tubb but have made some purchases from his company and been happy with them.
@@rakumprojectsYou're very welcome. I just happened to recall looking at those RBT bullets when I was buying some more AR-15 reliability parts, and bore lapping ammo.
To straighten up the case mouths, you might try using a universal case deprimeing tool with the decapping pin removed and the expander ball adjusted halfway up. I do this, esp when I tumble garbage range brass . Sometimes, the cases have debris inside, and does you tumbler no favors, putting that gunk through your equipment.. just a thought.
Hold your horses cause a subsonic round has apparently been released. Now it will just travel all the way through slower, still no damage to critical organs.
I love all the COD experts in firearms and ballistics talking their talk. "Hmmmm..... I wonder what would happen if I made a bullet from a spent casing?" "Hmmm, not as bad as I thought . Imma gonna tweek this crazy train and see whatsup." "Hmmmm.... not a great shot group, barely good *, but the damn thing got off the ground, flew the pattern, and landed....who woulda thought????" * the NORMATIVE circular probability of error at 100 yards for the Mini-14 is 3 [THREE] inches.... using commercial grade ammunition. This as a frame of comparison shows these Frankenrounds would hit a target close enough and do real damage. Many hunters in Africa would pull the bullet from their .303 and seat them BACKWARDS to make a flat nose. Apparently it was was more effective on BIG game.
Dude, you got some awesome tools/shop! And you're doing something fun and a bit crazy, but you're doing it well and making them right. People contradict each other in the comments about the barrel and tumbling. The rifling in the barrel is meant to stabilize the bullet in flight, which in turn keeps it from tumbling.
Such a novel way to make functional ammunition for your old rifle. As for the brass being hard on the barrel, that brass may have been work hardened by your shaping the head, but that part of the brass isn't in contact with the barrel. IF you are concerned about work hardened brass casings causing damage, you already have what you need to anneal the brass (heat); you could do that, run it through your tumbler to clean off any residue and then they're ready for the lead core... As for shaping the nose of your custom bullets, look into carbide tipped glass and tile drill bits the holes they make look suspiciously bullet shaped 😉
Bravo my fellow reloaded! 👏 Innovative ideas and experiments is the keystone to knowledge, skills and evolution of new technologies/practices. A projectile/bullet is literally a chunk of material shaped & sized to a specific weight then yeeted out a barrel. It's just sad many in the comments don't understand that or manufacturers sell brass solid rounds or bullets made from everything from foam to hardened steel. Keep up the innovation and have fun doing it!
That's a great setup you have built. An excellent source of information and swaging equipment is Corbin Manufacturing in White City, OR. They have been swaging bullets for decades.
You have some good skills and ideas, maybe consider building some tooling. You can start with a ball end mill and create your shap by regrinding the flutes and re edging them. It's doable. I was a journeyman machinist, i used to build bullet molds grinding all my own tooling. You young man are very talented in the adapt, improvise and over come department. Very well done.
This is so cool. It’d be fun to shoot the same load at a handful of ranges, chrono them, and work out a rough BC. Also- for making one-off sizing dies, I keep a couple pieces of 7/8-14 allthread on hand, and just lop off what I need. I hate doing single point threading, so the few extra dollars to Grainger saves me a lot of frustration.
Further improvement idea: after filling the cases with lead, trim them all to roughly the same length on the lathe (putting an end mill in the lathe jaw and using a tool post jig would likely get the best results).
Don't worry about using empty cases for jackets people have been doing it for years. Remington has brass jacketed bullets called golden sabers. People have made 224 bullets out of 22 long rifle cases etc
That people concerned about the toll on your rifling kinda surprised me. Even before you mentioned the historical precedent for solid brass and copper alloy bullets, I was aware that the process of filling the cases with molten lead would anneal them and with annealed brass against hardened steel it was evident who would win.
This was very interesting, you recognized problems, listened to a a lot of input and came up with a pretty darn good projectile. For the hardness of the brass, maybe annealing the case would help, but, as you noted, there are solid brass bullets out there that wouldn't be as malleable as a lead filled case. I am not anywhere close to the set up required to duplicate this, though I do have a .303 British Enfield, and oddly enough, an 8mm Lebel LeBerthier...also some 5.7x28 cases.
8:33 soft aluminum tends to gaul and gum up when cutting or a similar force is applied. Beeswax would help with any cutting or grinding of soft aluminum, rather than the cutting oil used.
Hey just asking if possible but could you make a video of what the round looks like after being fired i would like to see how they mushroomed out also congrats on the video and the production of your bullets please make more vids like these ❤
i've seen people reloading .223 with bullets with jackets out of 5.6LR casings. It's a bit cumbersome but works for shooting-da-cans, if you bother reloading at all. Fly a better than .223 pure lead, comparable with bullets casted of harder lead alloys which may be pricey \ troublesome to compose right in diy environment, so it's somewhat worth it.
Brass is used as a mechanical bearing surface all the time because it is naturally more slick than most metals. People don’t understand how hardness actually works. If something is harder than something else it is going cut the softer thing. When a blade dulls cutting wood it is because of it playability making it deform from pressure. This is why you can sharpen a knife with a leather belt you are bring the atoms back into alignment. When you use a sharpener the ceramics are literally more hard than steel and so remove material. Barrel life is diminished because of corrosion and rapid fire heating the steal to a point it is actually softer than the brass. This includes the galvanic corrosion of metals being left in contact being moved around through electromagnetic interactions. May dumping kills barrels, or yes steel casings which are almost as hard as the barrel itself will pose a danger but brass being fired out of a bolt action eight times isn’t going to do anything provided you clean the barrel. People need to pay way more attention to temperature causing condensation or exposing the gun to salts or corrosive chemicals in cheap ammo more than brass. Brass is used in high rpm engines as a solid bearing in crank shafts, it literally slips over steel where a traditional bearing would break because of the lack of surface area.
So, the reason the driving bands are cut in copper solids and brass solids is because without them there is increased fouling. As solids don't *Squish* as well as lead or jacketed bullets The bands give a place to relive pressure or fouling to deposit verses getting shoved into the barrel. Even with the long bearing length of those projectiles the soft lead cores will allow it to swage easier in the barrel meaning you shouldn't see any ill effects of it. Your barrel life will have no meaningful difference, *Somewhat Off topic rant The biggest thing people need to get around is it's no so much the material, It's the hardness of the material. Steel, copper, brass can all be mixed, annealed, and hardened to a to varying degrees. There's a video out there showing that even some steel case ammo is softer than some brands of brass. Even SIG has used boxer primed copper washed 9mm steel case and no one notices any difference except for some reloaders who refuse to reload it (Google it there are quite a few thread of people making a big deal about it). Showing most of it is a placebo. People bring up OH steel case 9mm is nasty because it doesn't seal. No it's nasty because of the powder. Like my favorite 9mm reload uses titegroup and it is hot and nasty a single load on virgin brass will discolor it and leave a good amount of gunk in the gun however, I can and have, work up the same bullet and virgin brass with N320 and it comes out looking almost new. The same soft steel or even softer is used in the projectiles that are copper washed (Or zinc washed) sometimes, will show the same characteristics as copper jacketed or plated enough to the point there's no noticeable difference in barrel life. Rant over* Outside of the bearing surface, the swaging difference also is a reason why you can't use the same data for copper/brass solids. To the point that even if you compare both weight and similar bearing length of the copper solids to jacketed printed data will be a decent way off to what would be expected. Your brass jacketed pure lead core (Soft) will be fine. (Someone who reloads copper solids for hunting ammo 500mag, 300win)
*You have the right idea. As a marine sniper I always thought bullets should be built more like arrows. I made some .308 slugs out of solid brass that were 2.5" long. I had to remove the bolt in order to load them. The bullet was longer than the powder cartridge but light since it had no lead! The result was amazing! Even at shots over 375 yards the bullet still had 85% of it's muzzle V. and Ft. Lb. energy at 1/4 mile!!! These long bullets carried all their mass in a slender aerodynamic shape so they fly with very flat trajectory. Next I made an Aluminum slug 4" long and results were even better. Same day all sniper bullets will have the shape of small arrows. Just a matter of time now.*
There is no way this happened. The twist rate of the barrel could not have possibly stabilized bullets of that length. Think you must have gotten the bullets mixed up with the crayons you were eating. Copper and brass solids generally require faster twist rates because they need to be longer for a given weight. You really think if this was a viable idea none of the ammunition companies on the planet would have implemented it yet?
@@MMBRM *I wanted to stop my post from becoming a "novel" but I did put brass bands (gas seals) round these longer bullets. Also all these slugs had a similar GRAIN weight since the metals I used are MUCH lighter than lead! It works! Try it!*
For those concerned with the hard brass, the boat tail cut removes the supported case wall from the bore contact area. Would annealing soften the case enough to matter? When building a experimental case forming die, regrind the tap or drill bit to get a smooth curve to your case/jacket. I've watched many videos using 22LR brass cases to form .223/5.56 jackets.
@rakumprojects Just out of curiosity, how has that lathe treated you? Heard a lot of mixed reviews on grizzly products. I'd like to buy a small lathe for my own projects, but it seems hard to find something decent without spending a fortune
@@kevinfitzpatrick5949 It's a good lathe if you work within it's limitations. It's much more solid than a mini lathe, but can't do much barrel work with the short bed and small 3/4" through hole. I will upgrade eventually to something like a 14x40.
Really impressed and enjoyed this alot. Nice to see good minds coming together to make something better. I hope this is indicative of your followers and content. Subscription added.
Good job dude . Excellent thinking outside the box . Always gonna negative Nannie’s telling you that you can’t or shouldn’t. Just keep showing em’ how it’s done . 🎉
This is the most interesting and useful video I've seen in a month or so! Finlly something to do with all these stupid 5.7 cases. I've collected piles.
another to add to the list, i love seeing what brass can be used to make jacketed bullets. i use 40 S&W and 357 SIG brass for jacketed bullets in my 44 mag
honestly this is a genius way to make soft point rounds on a budget, next maybe try some .22 LR cases filled with lead and loaded backwards, or something like a .25ACP case could be interesting
I wonder how they would fair on a gel test. I'd imagine they don't really have much room in the way of getting them to mushroom, even with a giant meplat the harder jacket would discourage any expansion.
Hm. You think it'd be semi-armor piercing on soft armor then? I'm reminded of lead core 7x62x54mmR. Maybe it'll expand since it has more resistance then?
It was possible to press them in again after filling them with lead. There is no void for the sleeve to press inward, lead is like a matrix + the sleeves have warmed up and become softer
I was looking for .312 bullets yesterday for use in a .303 Enfield and a Mosin Nagant. I found 2 or 3 companies selling brass bullets that looked a lot like those in the video.
@@rakumprojects I hope to see the results. I pulled bullets from 7.62x54R ammo with corrosive primers, that I purchased very cheap after finding a craigslist ad. 440 rnds for 150 president pictures. I was planning to use them in my No4 Mk1's. Then a few weeks later, I traded 400 president pictures for a Mosin. My biggest concern was the barrel may be shot out, rusted and or pitted from corrosive ammo etc. But after cleaning the barrel with Ballistol, the bore looks good so far. The store I found the Mosin at has offered to use a Teslong bore camera to check it. Now I have to find some reloadable cases and reloading dies for the Mosin.
Great work The most important thing is YOU'RE happy with it. Considering the speed of the process I don't see you wearing your barrel out. For cutting the threads I'm thinking you could have run the die conventionally, the turned it around to ensure the last few threads are cut fully.
Fun project. People that don't know anything will complain but that's just how people are. Next time you try to thread with a die, make sure you relieve the top of the threads some as burs will make the die seem harder than it should be and go ahead and cut it once the right direction before you turn it around and it should make it a lot easier.
Boat-tail? If you are firing these in a "surplus" .303, a boat-tail is about the last thing yo w=will need. Furthermore, the "official .3.3 chamber has a rather long leade / throat. This is to accommodate the earlier "torpedo-shaped Mk6 and earlier ammo. Finally, .303 rifling, especially in the No1 and p-14 rifles, is "unusual, to say the least. "Bore diameter is specified ion the official works drawings at .303 + 0.001". GROOVE DEPTH is then specified from that bore diameter, and is allowed to be as much as 0.008". Thus, it is entirely possible to encounter an original barrel covered with original inspection stamps, in which the nominal "groove diameter runs out to 0.320". Thus "boat-tails ate a BAD thing in .303 service rifle barrels. The original bullets were ALL "open-based" and expected to "bump-up" at the rear for better obturation. The past is an interesting place! Keep up the interesting experimentation.
A. Deprime the cases B.. Machine a spitzer swag and crush the tip to a point (you might need multi stage) C. Lead the back thru the primer pocket (probably be a good idea to drill em out) Yeah would be much more work I suppose...but daggum...that is sweet! I have an old .303 I would LOVE to reload for..such a great idea!
good point. To my knowledge 5.7 cases aren't annealed during creation like 223 for example which can provide 3-5 firings before the brass hardens back up. 5.7 being so small, an anneal could easily weaken the entire case.
😮 Have to give you credit that was in pretty slick, Thinking I picked up brass at the range before, but no report to put it to years like this. Just natural reloads, pretty cool.
Maybe use a bullet point deburring tool to get the shape of your bullet point shape. They come in many shapes and diameters and lengths. I use them for making lead bullet molds and they cut beautiful bullet holes
This is the first time seeing this and I’m impressed at the ingenuity you’ve displayed. Good on ya. I have shot bullets made from 22LR brass with some decent accuracy. Personally, I’d say down with the nay sayers and keep innovating. The reloading can be more fun and more fulfilling than the shooting.
I use lanolin grease and isopropyl as case lube in about a 7 to 1 ratio, you can dump all the cases in a ziplock back, dribble in a little and shake them around. it works as well as the RCBS wax but you can apply it in bulk.
Fired case are harder due to the sudden heating and cooling. Over annealing the case especially at the base will soften it further. And while doing the boat tail locate the end of the base a trim more there so the only one that touches the land grooves is the annealed case wall.
Have used .223 brass to make .375" bullets and sized .250 Savage brass to make .458's along with using .303 brass sans rims (.457" base dia.) to make .458" bullets. Others I know have used .40 S&W and 100 Auto to make .429"/.430" bullets for the .44 Rem. Mag. revolvers and rifles. some require sizing. All but the pistol cases need trimming and forming. I annealed the brass to soften it to get reliable expansion. Pure lead for soft points, hard lead alloys for FMJ-type bullets.
I had a pair of old swage dies that set untouched for a couple years and finally I got around to making some bullets using 5.7 cases, I annealed them with a torch and sized the jacket first to .306 and using RCBS bullet pulling collet mounted in a piece of aluminum plate. I used that to trim the cases down with a milling machine to make 125gr bullets for my 300 HAM'R. They were a bit tapered so I sized the bullet down to .3065", I really didn't expect much but I shot a 5 shot 0.77" group at 50 yards, that's 1.47 MOA. Velocity was 2400fps It was much better than what I expected! I didn't remove the rim, the gap was pretty much gone / compressed during point-forming.
@@rakumprojectsNo, the bore is standard .308 size. 300 HAM'R is like 300 blackout but longer case and focuses only on supersonic rounds, it also has slower 1:15 and 1:13 barrel twist. This works much more accurately with cast bullets and copper plated bullets. Next step I'll test it in my Win .308 when the weather becomes better. I can make the bullets heavier too as well as commercial jackets to compare with. So the reason I sized it to .306 (it actually came out .307) was to create a more straight shank so the bullet would be seated straight and even though its undersized, if you look at SAAMI specs the range of acceptable bullet was from .306 - .309. So I figured a bit undersized bullet might lose some velocity but it turns out the velocity was about the same. I also shot another group with 1/2 grain more powder and I got 2450fps but the group opened up to about 2 MOA with vertical stringing so I don't know if the gun needed cooldown or something else. Also, I am going to try nex to shoot them as is without sizing. From what I've seen in your video I would recommend a few things. 1. is that you anneal the case with a torch till it glows red, just put on a nail and heat it with a torch. You could also dip or drop it in a lead pot and keep it there for 10 seconds or so. These cases are thick so you don't have to worry about over annealing. 2. Vibratory tumbler doesn't really do a good job of removing soot and scale after annealing. I use wet tumbler and stainless steel pins loaded with citric acid (Lemishine) and some dish soap or Woolite (a must for lanolin based lubes). Also in my case if I wanted a heavier bullet I would machine an expander to expand the neck. I do that with 17 HMR cases and make them into 6.5mm bullets, works great.
@@DimaProkThanks for the info! I'll try annealing the whole case next time. And shorty after I filmed the video I bought a wet tumbler. I've been impressed with it so far. Will probably get rid of my vibratory tumbler.
Great video...don't worry about barrel wear, it will be just about nothing if any at all. The steel in the rifle barrel is much harder than the brass, no worries. keep on doing experiments. It's very interesting, thank you.
Make a final forming die. Fill casings till flush then taper the end a slight bit more. For bonus points, score the case from nos to.half way down, but make cuts so they are not straight across the narrowest dimension. Also anneal cases prior.
I can identify as a slightly nerdy or special person... this video is epic from several points of view. I "reload" and I use 5.7... this is 22lr recycling to an exponent! Awesome.
I skimmed through the first 15 minutes to understand what he was doing. He turned smaller cartridge brass into jackets, filled them with lead to make bullets and loaded those into higher caliber cartriges.
what about using the stripped screw extractor to make the die? They tape off and have blades to bite into the screw. maybe it will let you form aluminium?
Really awesome project. Seen this done before with 22lr for 223 bullets. Hopefully though someone reverse engineers that 5.7x28 case lube so it can more easily be reloaded Though small question, typically harder lead is used in rifle bullets to prevent leading, but that doesn’t matter with these since they have the brass jacket. Couldn’t you get away with using more mixed alloys?
They can be filled with any alloy of lead. The idea behind using pure lead is since the brass is tougher than the typical bullet jacket, the soft inside doesn't prevent it from conforming to the rifling.
Wow, flashback: What put Vernon Speer on the map was using 22LR cases as jacket material to swage 22 centerfire bullets, during World War II material shortages.
Brilliant recycling of components. If I may comment on your shooting style - try and gently squeeze the trigger, It seemed to me that the video shows you pulling the trigger back very fast rather than squeezing. Also try and use only the tip or first segment of your trigger finger this may help with your accuracy (difficult with Gloves). However having said all this, Just do what your comfy and happy with and keep having fun.
If you decide to use anymore of those, you COULD consider using some kind of bullet lube. Powdered moly comes to mind as well. Those homemade bullets would be very easy to apply some variant of liquid ALLOX.
"Plus, we fire the whole bullet. That's 65% more bullet per bullet!"
-Cave johnson
@@thefiaguyUsername checks out.
Imagine if someone used rounds like that in a crime and they pulled the round and found a whole shell in them like those animations of whole cartridges flying out the barrel.😅
Yeah the media would have a headache with that one!
Clearly it was done by an aperture science turret
Life and Reality are just as STRANGE as Fiction and Fantasy. Sometimes even STRANGER 💥🪃.
This was my first thought when I saw this video. "Wow, the investigator sure would be stumped to find a whole round of ammunition inside the victim."
Back in the day hunting dinosaurs I used hornet brass filled with solder in the old greener 410 it was fairly good on roos at 150yards
Not sure why you’re getting hate. This is awesome. Bet most of the ppl in the comments do not even reload.
Its a smart concept. Ive seen 5.56 bullets from 22lr cases, and 40 cal bullets from 9mm cases and 45 acp from 40 cal cases.
I'd be willing to bet they barley even know how to shoot.... Call pf Duty 'xperts....
The ‘tism is a rough mistress I thinks.
I "reload" actually "initial load" as well, this is loaders "candy" excellent content 👍
I dont see a single negative comment. they all get pushed to the bottom. unpopular opinions are outlawed on redd, I mean youtube. same thing.
Dude, I will send you 3-400 cases of 5.7x28 brass. Just tell me where to send it. Also, to knock off the coating, you can use steel pins in a tumble washer. If you wanted to prolong the life of the barrel, coat them in boron nitride, even powder coating, or adding bullet lube would help. The bearing surface of a bullet is directly related to the pressure wave behind it. The faster wear on a barrel is also directly related to the type of steel and steel thickness. Harmonics are caused by ignition, but contrary to popular belief, it isn't the heat of the powder and gas which causes a barrel to heat rapidly. It is the rapid expansion of the steel of the barrel as the pressure wave travels down the barrel and dissipates. This expansion/contraction heats the steel much faster than just the hot gas. It's closer to 18,600fps compared to a bullet travelling at only, for example 2650-2950, out of most 30 caliber base cartridges like 308, 303, & 6.5 Creedmoor. There are quite a few expert barrel makers on Erik Cortina's channel, Believe the Target, who explain harmonics well, and Bryan Litz's Applied Ballistic books also discuss this to some length. Erik even has the guy who originally applied harmonic tuners to rifle barrels. He learned about it as a kid hitting radio tower guy wires and listening to the twang sound. That was his first introduction. This is one reason moly or boron nitride coated bullets extend a barrel's life. They are slick so the pressure wave doesn't expand the barrel as much due to the friction of the bearing surface being reduced.
Gotta love seeing smart people commenting. It's refreshing, thanks
@@Dark-Knight-Cowboy prove it.
You seem to be the person to ask this, but because they are also "open ended" like hollow point and lead filled, wouldn't the "squish" of the lead have some play to not be so harsh in engaging the rifling?
Not an expert but the brass itself should stop it from expanding the lead like that.
Bingo! and AMEN. Just like compressed air, or hydraulic fliud! Pressure make things Hot! Oh WAIT thats how a diesel works, another moment And a Jet Turbin? So they say.
I'm working out a diesel affect, anti humidity, less fouling, or corrosion AMP for my muzzle loaders mixed into the propellant loke a f.o.b?
I have watched Large steam lines jump and dance when a slug of condensation hits a turn, why not a barrel?
People have been making. 224 bullets out of 22 LR brass for years, great idea you had. Love the video. 😊
Came here to comment that. would love to see a video on that process
Agreed
I've been trying to get my hands on a set of original RCBS dies (or anything of the type) for years. To do exactly that.
There is no better feeling than discovering things that unintentionally fit perfectly and going "Fuck it, let's see how far this can go" and it works incredibly
Helpful hint when cutting threads in Aluminum with a die use automatic transmission fluid as a lubricant. It works amazing my grandpa taught me that when I was about ten years old in 1980. Awesome concept I love this!!
Nice tip, I'll have to remember that
WD 40 works very well also...and when your polishing use WD. And it's readily available.@@rakumprojects
An 80ish year old machinist in the early 1970's taught me to use Prestone antifreeze for a great solution on machining aluminum for superior finishes in lathe work. But if your process happens to create a mist or spray don't breathe it.
Sort of like turducken. Now I want to see a shell fired from a shell in a shell. Sorry I accidentally posted in the wrong comment section. Damnit now I got to look for the post in a sea of other comments.
"Cave Johnson here! Introducing the consumer version of our most popular military-grade product!"
Speer bullets started as a small business selling tools to reform spent 22lr cases into 223 bullet jackets for home reloaders. I’ve also seen 9mm cases formed into 40 S&W bullets and 40 S&W cases formed into 45 acp bullets.
I've used similar methods to make .458 bullets out of .308 cases. The thing i noticed was that it takes a lot more powder to drive them to the same speed as lead bullets with the same weight and seating depth. This is when given the same space for powder in the .458 case. Hence pressure can probably spike if you are close to max loads. The same applies to most solids so it's not new knowledge, but worth mention to new re-loaders. There is probably a good idea to anneal the 5,7 cases after forming to reduce the work hardness of the brass. Should increase performance, reduce barrel wear and lower pressure.
That is good to know about it taking more powder to drive them to the same velocities. Thanks for this. I was wondering why he didn't anneal the cases myself as I've read this was a necessary step.
Using stuff others consider junk in a way that is EFFECTIVE, LOW COST and Unique are the HALLMARKS of a Great Mind. I go to ranges sometimes and pick up brass to reload, I own a Ruger 57 and plan on getting a carbine Rifle to complete the set. I know you are getting hate for doing this because 5.7 x 28mm can be hard to find and EXPENSIVE! Some 5.7 brass cannot be reloaded or are just shot out (you can only reload one or more times before the neck of the brass hardens to the point of failure). I am going to try your BRILLIANT plan with some shootout 5.7. Great Vid you have a new Subscriber!
Would it not be possible to anneal 5.7x28 to prevent the necks from splitting.
@@Johnny-jr2lqabsolutely
this is so impressive the amount of machining that took
I think its cool when people pick up ammo and do stuff like this with it. idk its just freaking cool
This is how Vernon Speer started back in the day. funny to me how many people "know so much." Well done dude, this is pretty cool.
Yes and Rcbs actually stands for Rock Chuck Brass Swage Fred Huntingtons original purpose for the Rock chucker was swaging projectiles
Yep, old timer gunsmith told me to get a rock chucker... did so and the rest is historyl Spent many a dollar on Speer as well...
I enjoy shooters who like to think out of the box. Good video, thanks.
I just got into reloading and am thoroughly impressed by your work. You definitely earned my subscription and I'm very excited to continue watching in the future!
And this here is how better ammo is figured out.. experementation like this...
You came up with the question, the hypothesis, the experement, and the best answer you could provide while working with the tools you have...
IM IMPRESSED!!!!❤❤❤
Well done. You'll put meat on the table with those if the Zombie Apocalypse happens and you have lots of 5.7x28mm brass.
I used .30 Carbine brass (I had several hundred berdan primed brass) to make .357 projectiles. After prep, I loaded with lead shot and sealed with silicone sealant.
A guy saw one of them stuck in the wood after shooting and said that something was wrong with my gun as it shot the entire cartridge out.
This is the first time ive seen anything from this channel before. I had to say that the little animation he used to show what steps were being done in the lathe is the most innovative thing ive ever seen on metal or wood working channels. I think most makers assume that you know exactly whats going on and you are following whats being said.
Great video. Ive heard of people doing this before and it was nice to see it done for fun. I also heard of people using .22lr brass to form 5.7×28 projectiles for loading. Of course, this was back when only one company was producing the ammo, FN.
Some boattail bullets are shaped a lot like those, instead of straight tapered. They're called Rebated Boattails and David Tubb's high-BC DTAC (David Tubb Advanced Concepts in Ammunition) 6mm 115grain bullet uses it. A rebated boattail bullet obturates faster and more efficiently to the rifle bore. This results in quicker sealing and less gas blow-by. The result is a significant increase in accurate barrel life compared to a diet of conventional boattails. Specifically, the RBT design slows down barrel throat erosion. This erosion results from the "flame-cutting" effect of burning propellant gases, which is intensified by a conventional boattail design. Along with extending the accurate life of a new barrel, this also means that their 115 RBT will perform better in a rifle that's already suffering from throat erosion. During testing with an Oehler 88 at 1000 yards these bullets provided a measured G1 BC of .620! I don't work for David Tubb but have made some purchases from his company and been happy with them.
Interesting, I had no idea there was research into this. Thanks for the info!
@@rakumprojectsYou're very welcome. I just happened to recall looking at those RBT bullets when I was buying some more AR-15 reliability parts, and bore lapping ammo.
To straighten up the case mouths, you might try using a universal case deprimeing tool with the decapping pin removed and the expander ball adjusted halfway up. I do this, esp when I tumble garbage range brass . Sometimes, the cases have debris inside, and does you tumbler no favors, putting that gunk through your equipment.. just a thought.
Finally a decent use for 5.7
Hold your horses cause a subsonic round has apparently been released. Now it will just travel all the way through slower, still no damage to critical organs.
C'mon they're fun the first time too... reincarnation just multiplies it.
You have absolutely no idea what you're talking about.
You beat me to this comment 😂
punches through windshields, door panels and soft armor like they're not even there and you think 5.7 is useless?
I love all the COD experts in firearms and ballistics talking their talk.
"Hmmmm..... I wonder what would happen if I made a bullet from a spent casing?"
"Hmmm, not as bad as I thought . Imma gonna tweek this crazy train and see whatsup."
"Hmmmm.... not a great shot group, barely good *, but the damn thing got off the ground, flew the pattern, and landed....who woulda thought????"
* the NORMATIVE circular probability of error at 100 yards for the Mini-14 is 3 [THREE] inches.... using commercial grade ammunition. This as a frame of comparison shows these Frankenrounds would hit a target close enough and do real damage. Many hunters in Africa would pull the bullet from their .303 and seat them BACKWARDS to make a flat nose. Apparently it was was more effective on BIG game.
I love the fact that they are Boattail Softpoint 184 grain rounds. That seems like a lot of 💥FIREPOWER💥
I never imagined you'd take my advice. I feel honoured
I’d love to see one recovered after firing ! With the primer still there and everything !
Dude, you got some awesome tools/shop! And you're doing something fun and a bit crazy, but you're doing it well and making them right.
People contradict each other in the comments about the barrel and tumbling. The rifling in the barrel is meant to stabilize the bullet in flight, which in turn keeps it from tumbling.
I know some folks that made .458" bullets out of .308Win cases. They would turn the rim off to make a somewhat boattail.
This feels like something someone would do in the post apocalypse in case of ammo shortages
Such a novel way to make functional ammunition for your old rifle. As for the brass being hard on the barrel, that brass may have been work hardened by your shaping the head, but that part of the brass isn't in contact with the barrel.
IF you are concerned about work hardened brass casings causing damage, you already have what you need to anneal the brass (heat); you could do that, run it through your tumbler to clean off any residue and then they're ready for the lead core...
As for shaping the nose of your custom bullets, look into carbide tipped glass and tile drill bits the holes they make look suspiciously bullet shaped 😉
I think I've seen someone making .223 bullets with .22lr brass.
Bravo my fellow reloaded! 👏
Innovative ideas and experiments is the keystone to knowledge, skills and evolution of new technologies/practices.
A projectile/bullet is literally a chunk of material shaped & sized to a specific weight then yeeted out a barrel.
It's just sad many in the comments don't understand that or manufacturers sell brass solid rounds or bullets made from everything from foam to hardened steel.
Keep up the innovation and have fun doing it!
That's a great setup you have built. An excellent source of information and swaging equipment is Corbin Manufacturing in White City, OR. They have been swaging bullets for decades.
Best gun content on youtube.
Brings back memories of using 40S&W brass to make bullets for the 444 Marlin. It works well enough but is very time consuming.
You have some good skills and ideas, maybe consider building some tooling. You can start with a ball end mill and create your shap by regrinding the flutes and re edging them. It's doable. I was a journeyman machinist, i used to build bullet molds grinding all my own tooling. You young man are very talented in the adapt, improvise and over come department. Very well done.
One day I hope to make my own bullet molds. Not for this, for typical cast bullets.
This is so cool. It’d be fun to shoot the same load at a handful of ranges, chrono them, and work out a rough BC.
Also- for making one-off sizing dies, I keep a couple pieces of 7/8-14 allthread on hand, and just lop off what I need. I hate doing single point threading, so the few extra dollars to Grainger saves me a lot of frustration.
I had the same thought. I've been meaning to add 7/8 all thread to my next metals order, but I haven't needed any for a while.
This was an awesome idea, and I like the thought out an controlled process you used to advance and develop your bullets
Further improvement idea: after filling the cases with lead, trim them all to roughly the same length on the lathe (putting an end mill in the lathe jaw and using a tool post jig would likely get the best results).
FANTASTIC!!!! It’d be awesome to see recovered ones 🎉
Don't worry about using empty cases for jackets people have been doing it for years. Remington has brass jacketed bullets called golden sabers. People have made 224 bullets out of 22 long rifle cases etc
That people concerned about the toll on your rifling kinda surprised me. Even before you mentioned the historical precedent for solid brass and copper alloy bullets, I was aware that the process of filling the cases with molten lead would anneal them and with annealed brass against hardened steel it was evident who would win.
This was very interesting, you recognized problems, listened to a a lot of input and came up with a pretty darn good projectile. For the hardness of the brass, maybe annealing the case would help, but, as you noted, there are solid brass bullets out there that wouldn't be as malleable as a lead filled case. I am not anywhere close to the set up required to duplicate this, though I do have a .303 British Enfield, and oddly enough, an 8mm
Lebel LeBerthier...also some 5.7x28 cases.
8:33 soft aluminum tends to gaul and gum up when cutting or a similar force is applied. Beeswax would help with any cutting or grinding of soft aluminum, rather than the cutting oil used.
Hey just asking if possible but could you make a video of what the round looks like after being fired i would like to see how they mushroomed out also congrats on the video and the production of your bullets please make more vids like these ❤
i've seen people reloading .223 with bullets with jackets out of 5.6LR casings. It's a bit cumbersome but works for shooting-da-cans, if you bother reloading at all. Fly a better than .223 pure lead, comparable with bullets casted of harder lead alloys which may be pricey \ troublesome to compose right in diy environment, so it's somewhat worth it.
Brass is used as a mechanical bearing surface all the time because it is naturally more slick than most metals. People don’t understand how hardness actually works. If something is harder than something else it is going cut the softer thing. When a blade dulls cutting wood it is because of it playability making it deform from pressure. This is why you can sharpen a knife with a leather belt you are bring the atoms back into alignment. When you use a sharpener the ceramics are literally more hard than steel and so remove material. Barrel life is diminished because of corrosion and rapid fire heating the steal to a point it is actually softer than the brass. This includes the galvanic corrosion of metals being left in contact being moved around through electromagnetic interactions. May dumping kills barrels, or yes steel casings which are almost as hard as the barrel itself will pose a danger but brass being fired out of a bolt action eight times isn’t going to do anything provided you clean the barrel.
People need to pay way more attention to temperature causing condensation or exposing the gun to salts or corrosive chemicals in cheap ammo more than brass. Brass is used in high rpm engines as a solid bearing in crank shafts, it literally slips over steel where a traditional bearing would break because of the lack of surface area.
So, the reason the driving bands are cut in copper solids and brass solids is because without them there is increased fouling. As solids don't *Squish* as well as lead or jacketed bullets The bands give a place to relive pressure or fouling to deposit verses getting shoved into the barrel.
Even with the long bearing length of those projectiles the soft lead cores will allow it to swage easier in the barrel meaning you shouldn't see any ill effects of it.
Your barrel life will have no meaningful difference,
*Somewhat Off topic rant The biggest thing people need to get around is it's no so much the material, It's the hardness of the material. Steel, copper, brass can all be mixed, annealed, and hardened to a to varying degrees. There's a video out there showing that even some steel case ammo is softer than some brands of brass. Even SIG has used boxer primed copper washed 9mm steel case and no one notices any difference except for some reloaders who refuse to reload it (Google it there are quite a few thread of people making a big deal about it). Showing most of it is a placebo. People bring up OH steel case 9mm is nasty because it doesn't seal. No it's nasty because of the powder. Like my favorite 9mm reload uses titegroup and it is hot and nasty a single load on virgin brass will discolor it and leave a good amount of gunk in the gun however, I can and have, work up the same bullet and virgin brass with N320 and it comes out looking almost new. The same soft steel or even softer is used in the projectiles that are copper washed (Or zinc washed) sometimes, will show the same characteristics as copper jacketed or plated enough to the point there's no noticeable difference in barrel life. Rant over*
Outside of the bearing surface, the swaging difference also is a reason why you can't use the same data for copper/brass solids. To the point that even if you compare both weight and similar bearing length of the copper solids to jacketed printed data will be a decent way off to what would be expected.
Your brass jacketed pure lead core (Soft) will be fine.
(Someone who reloads copper solids for hunting ammo 500mag, 300win)
Really like this and other creative videos. Helps you to have ideas thinking outside the box!
we need a meat target video Paul Harrell style!
@thegunsngloryshow give the video and I'll sub
*You have the right idea. As a marine sniper I always thought bullets should be built more like arrows. I made some .308 slugs out of solid brass that were 2.5" long. I had to remove the bolt in order to load them. The bullet was longer than the powder cartridge but light since it had no lead! The result was amazing! Even at shots over 375 yards the bullet still had 85% of it's muzzle V. and Ft. Lb. energy at 1/4 mile!!! These long bullets carried all their mass in a slender aerodynamic shape so they fly with very flat trajectory. Next I made an Aluminum slug 4" long and results were even better. Same day all sniper bullets will have the shape of small arrows. Just a matter of time now.*
ruclips.net/video/3Njddshr3n8/видео.html
Like tanks shoot with APFSDS? Except spin-stabilized instead of fin? And no sabot? Hm maybe not too similar as I first envisioned.
There is no way this happened. The twist rate of the barrel could not have possibly stabilized bullets of that length. Think you must have gotten the bullets mixed up with the crayons you were eating. Copper and brass solids generally require faster twist rates because they need to be longer for a given weight. You really think if this was a viable idea none of the ammunition companies on the planet would have implemented it yet?
@@MMBRM *I wanted to stop my post from becoming a "novel" but I did put brass bands (gas seals) round these longer bullets. Also all these slugs had a similar GRAIN weight since the metals I used are MUCH lighter than lead! It works! Try it!*
@@MMBRM Look up 7.92x41mm CETME, it's been done before.
Don't think the 1/10 twist rate of the old M40's would struggle either.
Not only you're a great engineer but also a great creator. Very entertaining, informative and enjoyable. Thank you; just subed.
For those concerned with the hard brass, the boat tail cut removes the supported case wall from the bore contact area. Would annealing soften the case enough to matter? When building a experimental case forming die, regrind the tap or drill bit to get a smooth curve to your case/jacket. I've watched many videos using 22LR brass cases to form .223/5.56 jackets.
For my next experiments I'll defiantly grind a tap to a form tool
@rakumprojects Just out of curiosity, how has that lathe treated you? Heard a lot of mixed reviews on grizzly products.
I'd like to buy a small lathe for my own projects, but it seems hard to find something decent without spending a fortune
@@kevinfitzpatrick5949 It's a good lathe if you work within it's limitations. It's much more solid than a mini lathe, but can't do much barrel work with the short bed and small 3/4" through hole. I will upgrade eventually to something like a 14x40.
Really impressed and enjoyed this alot. Nice to see good minds coming together to make something better. I hope this is indicative of your followers and content. Subscription added.
Thanks for showing the step by step of this, Been curious about this for quite a while now. Definitely going to tinker with this! Thank you!
Good job dude . Excellent thinking outside the box . Always gonna negative Nannie’s telling you that you can’t or shouldn’t. Just keep showing em’ how it’s done . 🎉
Very cool. It's experimenting like this that makes shooting fun. Most monolithic bullets are solid brass and do not noticeably reduce barrel life
This is the most interesting and useful video I've seen in a month or so! Finlly something to do with all these stupid 5.7 cases. I've collected piles.
I enjoy watching your craftsmanship! Keep up with the interesting videos!
Thank you for uploading this been wanting a full video
another to add to the list, i love seeing what brass can be used to make jacketed bullets. i use 40 S&W and 357 SIG brass for jacketed bullets in my 44 mag
honestly this is a genius way to make soft point rounds on a budget, next maybe try some .22 LR cases filled with lead and loaded backwards, or something like a .25ACP case could be interesting
Amazing
I wonder how they would fair on a gel test. I'd imagine they don't really have much room in the way of getting them to mushroom, even with a giant meplat the harder jacket would discourage any expansion.
Hm. You think it'd be semi-armor piercing on soft armor then? I'm reminded of lead core 7x62x54mmR. Maybe it'll expand since it has more resistance then?
It was possible to press them in again after filling them with lead. There is no void for the sleeve to press inward, lead is like a matrix + the sleeves have warmed up and become softer
I was looking for .312 bullets yesterday for use in a .303 Enfield and a Mosin Nagant. I found 2 or 3 companies selling brass bullets that looked a lot like those in the video.
I want to try these in my mosins next
@@rakumprojects I hope to see the results. I pulled bullets from 7.62x54R ammo with corrosive primers, that I purchased very cheap after finding a craigslist ad. 440 rnds for 150 president pictures. I was planning to use them in my No4 Mk1's.
Then a few weeks later, I traded 400 president pictures for a Mosin. My biggest concern was the barrel may be shot out, rusted and or pitted from corrosive ammo etc. But after cleaning the barrel with Ballistol, the bore looks good so far. The store I found the Mosin at has offered to use a Teslong bore camera to check it. Now I have to find some reloadable cases and reloading dies for the Mosin.
Great work
The most important thing is YOU'RE happy with it.
Considering the speed of the process I don't see you wearing your barrel out.
For cutting the threads I'm thinking you could have run the die conventionally, the turned it around to ensure the last few threads are cut fully.
Fun project. People that don't know anything will complain but that's just how people are. Next time you try to thread with a die, make sure you relieve the top of the threads some as burs will make the die seem harder than it should be and go ahead and cut it once the right direction before you turn it around and it should make it a lot easier.
Boat-tail?
If you are firing these in a "surplus" .303, a boat-tail is about the last thing yo w=will need.
Furthermore, the "official .3.3 chamber has a rather long leade / throat. This is to accommodate the earlier "torpedo-shaped Mk6 and earlier ammo.
Finally, .303 rifling, especially in the No1 and p-14 rifles, is "unusual, to say the least.
"Bore diameter is specified ion the official works drawings at .303 + 0.001". GROOVE DEPTH is then specified from that bore diameter, and is allowed to be as much as 0.008".
Thus, it is entirely possible to encounter an original barrel covered with original inspection stamps, in which the nominal "groove diameter runs out to 0.320".
Thus "boat-tails ate a BAD thing in .303 service rifle barrels. The original bullets were ALL "open-based" and expected to "bump-up" at the rear for better obturation. The past is an interesting place!
Keep up the interesting experimentation.
A. Deprime the cases
B.. Machine a spitzer swag and crush the tip to a point (you might need multi stage)
C. Lead the back thru the primer pocket (probably be a good idea to drill em out)
Yeah would be much more work I suppose...but daggum...that is sweet! I have an old .303 I would LOVE to reload for..such a great idea!
I was surprised when he said he wanted to make them „spitzer“. Is this a word in english? Oo
Anneal the cases next time before you fill with lead to soften the brass for less barrel wear.
good point. To my knowledge 5.7 cases aren't annealed during creation like 223 for example which can provide 3-5 firings before the brass hardens back up. 5.7 being so small, an anneal could easily weaken the entire case.
Yes im really waiting for this epic satisfying making bullet from bullet video
😮 Have to give you credit that was in pretty slick, Thinking
I picked up brass at the range before, but no report to put it to years like this. Just natural reloads, pretty cool.
Maybe use a bullet point deburring tool to get the shape of your bullet point shape. They come in many shapes and diameters and lengths. I use them for making lead bullet molds and they cut beautiful bullet holes
Portal was such a good game
This is the first time seeing this and I’m impressed at the ingenuity you’ve displayed. Good on ya. I have shot bullets made from 22LR brass with some decent accuracy. Personally, I’d say down with the nay sayers and keep innovating. The reloading can be more fun and more fulfilling than the shooting.
There are youtube videos out of people making projectiles for 45/70 in the same manner and using an annealing type process to soften the brass
I use lanolin grease and isopropyl as case lube in about a 7 to 1 ratio, you can dump all the cases in a ziplock back, dribble in a little and shake them around. it works as well as the RCBS wax but you can apply it in bulk.
Great video,brilliant idea and I like how you showed all the steps you took to achieve your goal
Fired case are harder due to the sudden heating and cooling. Over annealing the case especially at the base will soften it further. And while doing the boat tail locate the end of the base a trim more there so the only one that touches the land grooves is the annealed case wall.
Have used .223 brass to make .375" bullets and sized .250 Savage brass to make .458's along with using .303 brass sans rims (.457" base dia.) to make .458" bullets.
Others I know have used .40 S&W and 100 Auto to make .429"/.430" bullets for the .44 Rem. Mag. revolvers and rifles. some require sizing. All but the pistol cases need
trimming and forming. I annealed the brass to soften it to get reliable expansion. Pure lead for soft points, hard lead alloys for FMJ-type bullets.
I had a pair of old swage dies that set untouched for a couple years and finally I got around to making some bullets using 5.7 cases, I annealed them with a torch and sized the jacket first to .306 and using RCBS bullet pulling collet mounted in a piece of aluminum plate. I used that to trim the cases down with a milling machine to make 125gr bullets for my 300 HAM'R. They were a bit tapered so I sized the bullet down to .3065", I really didn't expect much but I shot a 5 shot 0.77" group at 50 yards, that's 1.47 MOA. Velocity was 2400fps It was much better than what I expected! I didn't remove the rim, the gap was pretty much gone / compressed during point-forming.
I'm not familiar with that caliber, is .306 the bore size?
@@rakumprojectsNo, the bore is standard .308 size. 300 HAM'R is like 300 blackout but longer case and focuses only on supersonic rounds, it also has slower 1:15 and 1:13 barrel twist. This works much more accurately with cast bullets and copper plated bullets. Next step I'll test it in my Win .308 when the weather becomes better. I can make the bullets heavier too as well as commercial jackets to compare with. So the reason I sized it to .306 (it actually came out .307) was to create a more straight shank so the bullet would be seated straight and even though its undersized, if you look at SAAMI specs the range of acceptable bullet was from .306 - .309. So I figured a bit undersized bullet might lose some velocity but it turns out the velocity was about the same. I also shot another group with 1/2 grain more powder and I got 2450fps but the group opened up to about 2 MOA with vertical stringing so I don't know if the gun needed cooldown or something else. Also, I am going to try nex to shoot them as is without sizing.
From what I've seen in your video I would recommend a few things. 1. is that you anneal the case with a torch till it glows red, just put on a nail and heat it with a torch. You could also dip or drop it in a lead pot and keep it there for 10 seconds or so. These cases are thick so you don't have to worry about over annealing. 2. Vibratory tumbler doesn't really do a good job of removing soot and scale after annealing. I use wet tumbler and stainless steel pins loaded with citric acid (Lemishine) and some dish soap or Woolite (a must for lanolin based lubes). Also in my case if I wanted a heavier bullet I would machine an expander to expand the neck. I do that with 17 HMR cases and make them into 6.5mm bullets, works great.
@@DimaProkThanks for the info! I'll try annealing the whole case next time. And shorty after I filmed the video I bought a wet tumbler. I've been impressed with it so far. Will probably get rid of my vibratory tumbler.
Great video...don't worry about barrel wear, it will be just about nothing if any at all. The steel in the rifle barrel is much harder than the brass, no worries. keep on doing experiments. It's very interesting, thank you.
Make a final forming die. Fill casings till flush then taper the end a slight bit more. For bonus points, score the case from nos to.half way down, but make cuts so they are not straight across the narrowest dimension. Also anneal cases prior.
This is thinking outside of the box. Keep going!
I can identify as a slightly nerdy or special person... this video is epic from several points of view. I "reload" and I use 5.7... this is 22lr recycling to an exponent! Awesome.
I skimmed through the first 15 minutes to understand what he was doing. He turned smaller cartridge brass into jackets, filled them with lead to make bullets and loaded those into higher caliber cartriges.
I enjoyed watching you make these rounds,very cool idea and use.
the first rifle i ever shot was a .303 and as a kid i wasn't ready the violent action i felt but god was it fun.
really cool and informative video. First time viewer, and I loved how informative and just interesting this was. Thank you!
Get some clear ballistic gel to shoot into. Really interested in what the wound cavity would be.
what about using the stripped screw extractor to make the die? They tape off and have blades to bite into the screw. maybe it will let you form aluminium?
I thought about that too. They have a much gentler taper than a tap but they could be made to work I'm sure.
Really awesome project. Seen this done before with 22lr for 223 bullets. Hopefully though someone reverse engineers that 5.7x28 case lube so it can more easily be reloaded
Though small question, typically harder lead is used in rifle bullets to prevent leading, but that doesn’t matter with these since they have the brass jacket. Couldn’t you get away with using more mixed alloys?
They can be filled with any alloy of lead. The idea behind using pure lead is since the brass is tougher than the typical bullet jacket, the soft inside doesn't prevent it from conforming to the rifling.
Great video....improvisation is the mother of invention...keep it up!
Truly awesome. Finally a good 5.7 round lol! Got to love the clowns who know nothing thinking brass is going to just strip your rifling 😂
Wow, flashback: What put Vernon Speer on the map was using 22LR cases as jacket material to swage 22 centerfire bullets, during World War II material shortages.
Brilliant recycling of components. If I may comment on your shooting style - try and gently squeeze the trigger, It seemed to me that the video shows you pulling the trigger back very fast rather than squeezing. Also try and use only the tip or first segment of your trigger finger this may help with your accuracy (difficult with Gloves). However having said all this, Just do what your comfy and happy with and keep having fun.
If you decide to use anymore of those, you COULD consider using some kind of bullet lube.
Powdered moly comes to mind as well.
Those homemade bullets would be very easy to apply some variant of liquid ALLOX.
This is foul. I love you.