The grand reveal of the drawer containing *eleven* Krag-Jorg receivers is the ultimate ending to this video, especially after you said "sorry, no pleasant ending," and is throwing me completely out of my chair.
This is what is known as a duffle cut. The reason it was cut is so that it will fit into a duffle bag. Sometimes servicemen would cut captued War trophies so that they could smuggle them home. If you check the stock you will probably find a matching cut under the barrel band.
I've seen duffel cuts and have several, but never a barrel. Pulling it out of the action should let it fit. I've got Carcanos, Mausers, Arisakas, all stock cut. I suspect this was "deactivated" for local ordinance. Quite a few guns in NYC are like this. If they did cut both, it means the owner never intended to use it. It's possible to rejoin a cut barrel--we've done it--but it's a long and involved process.
Back in the early 90s, I worked on a ww2 veteran's oil furnace. While in the basement, I noticed a really old riffle sitting on a shelf that had been cut in two. Both the barrel and the stock. I asked the man about it. He told me that it was cut so it would fit in his duffle bag when he returned from the war. He called it a duffle cut. You may have seen more of them than I have, but I can honestly say I saw one that had both the barrel and stock cut to fit into a duffle bag. This riffle was a flintlock muzzle loader. When they cut it, they even cut the ramrod.
Bonsoir, if you really want to make this carbine (and you don't find enought parts in the US) the guy I bought my carbine from is importing them directly from Danemark. And thus he has a lot of parts that are not regulated (like barrel shroud for carbines, the 1889/24 sight, original stocks...)
As to why the barrel was cut, I dont know. However there have been cases of Dutch Mannlichers that had big holes drilled in the barrels mid section, under the handguards in order to "booby trap" them for invading German soldiers in WW2
Curious if a portion of those holes were in the same fashion as the British Enfields that had holes drilled; they were all prominently marked “DP” for drill purpose only.
I don't know where you get that information but drilling holes in the barrels mid section has been requirement for deactivation since like 1970 up till 2014 in most European countries. Originally there was three holes in the size of the bore usually put on the underside of the barrel since thats least vidible place. later law changed and three holes in the size of outer dimension of the barrel + welded chamber and bolthead cut by 45 degrees appeared. Since early 2000s every functional part of the weapon has to be welded shut. Anyway it has nothing to do with traps and certainly nothing with ww2. Especially since hole in the barrel will not make it explode unless theres some obstruction added to it. Automatic Glocks have holes in the barrels by factoryfor example
@@GetTheFO The P14 barrels with holes in the chamber have a way to be safely repaired since spare original barrels on the surplus market are gone. The Dutch booby trap barrels can be too, though it's a different process. The bobby trap barrels were usually in the down position in the forearm area. The reason for this is when fired the barrel would literally detonate the stock sending wood and hot gases at thousands of PSI into the hand and or arm of the shooter, rendering him useless for battle at that moment, and possible permanently.
@@bad74maverick1 Interesting! I’d never read that they’d intentionally made holes like that with the intent of being an anti-personnel method, looks like I’ve got new reading to do!
The usual ploy was to drive an aluminium rod down the barrel using a mallet. Aluminium rod may be pulled out or punched out using a bronze driver that slips easily into the bore, if the barrel is soaked in boiling water to expand it a little without destroying the heat treatment.
I would imagine that the barrel was cut as part of the deactivation process, in theory ensuring that it couldnt be used again even if the plug was removed
you could send the barrel to a good gunsmith and have both parts threaded and timed for the rifling, it has been done before. Ive seen that done on a video where someone tested a 44" barrel, they were testing for muzzle velocity but idk which caliber. with this process you may lose about 1" of barrel length but you can also thread the muzzle and add a sacrificial 1" steel piece to extend the barrel to the original length
I have done threading projects like this. They require a very fine pitch (28 DPI or greater). The problem is chucking the barrel for turning and threading. the taper in the barrel makes it more difficult to align, but it can be done. If you are really good and take your time, the connection will be invisible -- you will not be able to see or feel it. Expect to pay a price for this kind of premium work.
Such a shame so much of the world doesnt have enough trust in its fellow man to allow ownerships of firearms. No weapon should be "deactivated". Especially not old ones.
Something strange about that barrel. The end with the chamber looked like it was sawed off, but the bore had a chamfer, which could require a lathe. If set up in a lathe, then it should have been parted on the lathe. And if you look at the other end (the extension), it looks like it was parted with a lathe. I bet this was originally a 22" barrel and someone only restored it to hang on the wall by adding an extension from a damaged long barrel. That would also explain why the barrels did not line up. I'm 99% sure these are two different barrels and 80% sure, your 22" barrel was original for another rifle.
The aluminum probably just transfered onto the lands. Did you give any consideration to hand lapping the affected area before counter boring the barrel. Just a thought
that was some great looking rifling, the only rifles i have that can shoot are a Chassepot needle rifle and a Swedish field hunter(fältjägare) M/1815-20 .70 cal short rifle. both have the correct model bayonets(both are short swords!). the rifling in those rifles are what you would expect from, one being well kept and survived a war and the other has survived time in target practice, both using black powder and corrosive caps. I don't know anyone here in the nordics who use a Krag but i bet they are used for sports or are sitting forgotten in many old Norwegians gun lockers. Back in the day there was a surplus of K98 rifles after the war and you could go to Norway to get one very cheap and original or converted to other common calibers as 6.5mm, 30-06, or 9.3mm and other calibers. must have been a tremendous amount of surplus rifles of any kind from the war that was brought home and unfortunately "sporterized".
I haven't ventured into muzzle loading or paper cartridge breechloaders.. yet. Last gun show I went to an acquaintance showed me the Kammerlader he recently got. Now I need one of those!
I've uses some pretty tiny boring bars. Obviously, depth of cut is a real driver of speed, but if you were hoping for concentricity I think one would've been just fine (though not as fast, obviously).
My late father had a never issued M1889 carbine stamped 1941. It was in immaculate condition, both the stock and all the blueing. I don't know when he got rid of it, but there were no guns left when he went to the retirement home.
@allen725 - What dicktionary are you using that those are two 'different things'. Except for the fabric and the town in Belgium, both spellings are for the same thing. Are you inferring that it was cut so it could leave Duffel, Belgium ? Or so it could be wrapped in 'duffel' fabric?
@rakumprojects Sounds like I need lathe... A good few of the rifles I've gotten from them have what appear to be serviceable bores, but the muzzles fail the bullet test, and they shoot a little wonky, but not keyholing all over the place either.
Nice collection of receivers in that drawer! Had to sell my collection of parts and firearms when I moved away from the states. They are so anal here that an empty cartridge case can get you into big trouble. I even had to modify my .308 cigar punch with three holes in the case just in case they were ever to see it and make a stink about it. The primer hole had been drilled out to allow a screw through to hold the walnut handle I turned for it.
The barrel was probably deactivated and cut because of EU/Danish laws, guns laws are extremly strict here, and most firearms (if not a a single shot hunting rifle) needs to be deactivated for either museum decorations, or if you as a private person wants to own any kind of old or new firearm. hope this helps
Depending on the rifling accessibility, if you could find a correct rifling die, you could [have / for future reference] potentially shift the die through the rifling until the cut, leaving it midway, basically screwing the one section onto the other. That way you might have a (nearly) guaranteed correct alignment Admittedly im not sure if i would trust a welded together barrel, but if you had a merging method you were confident with that would be a valid option Hope this helps or inspires a better idea! (You could, if you know the specs of the rifling, even make a die for it to perform the process, though thats a lot more work)
U're lucky in Germany for example, a deactivated/pluggedgun would be drilled into the chamber and a steelrod welded into the drillhole. Same thing at the muzzle and added to this, the barrel would be drilled or cut by the diameter of the bullet and lengths of 2inches, right behind the chamber. No way to fix such a demil.
Drilling throws burrs into an existing bore. You need to get in there with tool makers hones to chamfer the rifling. That's why a boring bar would have been the right tool to use. Set your cross slide at 30-45deg and chamfer the rifling as the last operation.
@@rakumprojects Do you have a steam account so we could talk? or telegram, or skype? is there a private messaging system we could use? I'd be more that willing to explain over a voip call. . . .
It would be much quicker to drive a round in as far as possible , and fire it😂. I've seen shotguns that had dirt in the barrel shot. It's amazing at the wild shapes they make when the barrel burst. I worked in a machine shop. People would bring in guns that had been in all sorts of mean , nasty things done to them.
I would use a hydraulic press but what you did worked fine also. Good save on an old firearm. I have a friend who got a machine gun that was deactivated by the US government that had been sliced right through the receiver. He was able to weld the two sections back together. The gun functions normally and the only noticeable indication that it was welded back together is the fact that the metal he used is a bit different than the receiver metal. Thee bolt was also put back together the same way.
I would have tried lapping the bore before resorting to counter boring it. I'm thinking most of the ring would have been smooth enough to not be a problem with accuracy and / or copper fouling. If it didn't work, then counter boring would have been the last option. After counter boring, if you take a ball-bearing slightly smaller than the counter bore and weld it to a rod, then use a little bit of valve lapping compound you can remove any roughness from the end of the rifling.
I didn't want to affect the rest of the rifling trying to remove the ring, thats why I didn't try lapping. The ball bearing in lapping compound is a good tip, I might just try that out to remove any burrs
Wow imagine you got a welded chamber atleast 3 holes and another weld in the barrel then a bolt stripped of its pin grinded off the front and welded in place
Considering the fact there's already a slight crown on the barrel, I'm guessing it was either already a carbine barrel, or was previously cut down to one.
Relining a smokeless powder rifle barrel is almost impossible, save for small caliber, rimfire and black powder, especially if cut in two. A drilled hole is different, but still takes a competent gunsmith. Cartridges with lower pressures are okay but military calibers are not. A perfect example of this is the Italian Vetterlli conversions to 6.5×52 during WW1. A fine gun using black powder, not designed for smokeless and shouldn't be shot with it, so hand loads only. A high powered rifle barrel is the same, even lined it is an easy breaking point.
It was probably brought home from war (explaining the duffle cut) and was plugged at home using aluminum. Maybe whoever brought it home had kids or grand kids and didn't want them loading it and accidentally shooting it so they filled it melted aluminum from empty cans
It could be made to work for some sort of pistol cartridge where the bullet diameter matches the bore. The outside diameter is too small to cut a chamber for a rifle cartridge
I have an idea barrel liner if you drill out the old rifle in both sections of the barrel. Weld the 2 barrels together Drill out the rifling And insert barrel liner. whole length of the barrel.
😂❤ yes you're actually doing it when you swapped out the barrels before I was kind of let down cuz I thought you were just going to trash that Barrel subscribed
For cutting alignment and reconnecting the spare barrel, may be able to rebuild it with a barrel liner. I would think some welding or maybe some kind of band brazing may need to be done to reinforce the cut section though unless the barrel liner is strong enough to hold. If you can get the work done might be possible to rig up that section of the barrel like a screw and nut then weld it up but still use a liner.
I'm not sure if it would. I also have some rifles with worse bores that shoot ok, including one with a bulged barrel. But since the ring was so close to the end, counter boring as a prevention measure wasn't too hard.
The 32 ACP has been used. They sell chamber adapters from Alaska that shot cartridges from rifle barrels.. I'd guess a lower powered 32 would make for some interesting projects. That could be a single shot Carbine. I'm not that familiar with the cartridge. Clynsrs does sale chamber reamers so that fabrication remains a popular use for old barrels. No real sense in it as everything is there already but fun. Many likely turned into silencesd rifles by counterboring and adding suppression holes. Indeed I'd wonder how many curios and relics have been modified into pistols and WWII style specialty weapons.
I was thinking it be pretty to make the end as a muzzle brake extra peace on top some treads redirecting up n sideways might kick allot less but adds less pressure to already short barell yet may be fun to make video of that
@@rakumprojects I respect an authentic view it's nice to be looking original n well kept but great video seen the last got this recommended I like your job great work 🙂 and you do be doing great job too the fewer well kept and remain working as much as you can restore the work off you do an amazing job thanks for the content
Is it just plugged? that's easy. If the chamber is drilled there is a safe way now to repair DP barrels that have an otherwise mint bore. Australians who cannot get barrels and have DP rifles which have to be registered as real guns and licensed the same came up with a way.
@@bad74maverick1 Yep the bore is just plugged. Its not one of the UK DP rifles that are bored out laterally at the chamber. People say that rods were welded into the barrel. If its just lead tho that would be fantastic. Ill dig it out and have a look and see what I have! Tell me about the method you're describing, would love to hear more!
@@herrcobblermachen I am actually thinking about doing a youtube channel on the process on my other (new not started) gun channel. So: Pull the barrel first. Get a section of .303 barrel or .30 caliber barrel (fal, bad M1 whatever, .303 is preferable), turn down the outside of the section just until it's flat, no contours. Bore out the barrel chamber to the case mouth the same ID as the OD of the barrel stub. Thread the holes on either side of the chamber. Cut the barrel section the length of the bored out chamber to the face of the chamber if it's a little long no problem we can turn it to factory chamber face specs. Press in the stub into the chamber (make sure it's a somewhat tight pressing). Silver solder the stub in place. Counter sink the stub on either side inside the threaded chamber holes. Run set screws in each side of the chamber holes and crank them down as hard as they will go. Weld over the chamber holes making sure a good solid weld with the set screws, not just on top of them. Chamber ream the barrel, check the chamber face, cut the extractor groove and reinstall the barrel. It sounds like a lot of work but it's not bad. Plus most of the DP P-14's are numbers matching and mint condition, not to mention good luck finding a loose barrel on the surplus market!
Re commissioning de activated weapons does collectors no favours. It just increases the restrictions, to the point here in Ireland where it is virtually impossible to decommission any gun.
Hi, Why not try to weld a piece of pipe the same diameter as the barrel to compensate for the missing length. I've seen people making Sten with extended barrel like this in order to comply with the US laws. It seems to work with 9mm, but I have to admit that i don't know what would happen with 8mm Krag... But it would allow you to put back a number matching Krag, even if not 100% perfect... Happy New Year
I could do that if I wanted to re-build the full length rifle. I wouldn't even need to permanently attach the forward section, that's only for barrels under 16"
Aluminium can be removed by using sodium hydroxide (caustic soda). Aluminium is a reactive metal and reacts with sodium hydroxide (NaOH) to form sodium aluminate and hydrogen: 2 Al(s) + 2 NaOH(aq) + 6 H2O(l) → 2 NaAl(OH)4 + 3 H2(g) In this reaction, an aluminum oxide-hydroxide compound (sodium aluminate) is formed in the solution, while hydrogen gas is simultaneously released.
@@rakumprojects Fair enough. Though I can't help but wonder if that difficulty may have been worth it to maintain the rifle in the most original state as possible.
Unless I'm not reading your measurements right, a live shell could have been chambered in this rifle. That would have made this a death trap waiting to happen. Good job.
What are the economics of surplus firearms where you live? If I had this rifle as an American I would have commissioned a gun smith to machine a new barrel from a barrel blank in a popular modem caliber like .308, it looks like all the cuts to fit could be done on a lathe
I'm in the US too. I like to keep all of my surplus firearms as original as possible, which explains the lengths I went to in order to save this barrel.
As a secondary idea and I’m sounding like an anti-gunner here, (but I’m not) for automotive use, do a little grinding and welding where barrel was cut to reenforce strength and grind 2 flat sides on chamber. Would make a cool pry bar.
The grand reveal of the drawer containing *eleven* Krag-Jorg receivers is the ultimate ending to this video, especially after you said "sorry, no pleasant ending," and is throwing me completely out of my chair.
This is what is known as a duffle cut. The reason it was cut is so that it will fit into a duffle bag. Sometimes servicemen would cut captued War trophies so that they could smuggle them home. If you check the stock you will probably find a matching cut under the barrel band.
He mentions that in the first video.
I've seen duffel cuts and have several, but never a barrel. Pulling it out of the action should let it fit. I've got Carcanos, Mausers, Arisakas, all stock cut. I suspect this was "deactivated" for local ordinance. Quite a few guns in NYC are like this.
If they did cut both, it means the owner never intended to use it.
It's possible to rejoin a cut barrel--we've done it--but it's a long and involved process.
Duffle cuts are only stocks
Back in the early 90s, I worked on a ww2 veteran's oil furnace. While in the basement, I noticed a really old riffle sitting on a shelf that had been cut in two. Both the barrel and the stock. I asked the man about it. He told me that it was cut so it would fit in his duffle bag when he returned from the war. He called it a duffle cut. You may have seen more of them than I have, but I can honestly say I saw one that had both the barrel and stock cut to fit into a duffle bag. This riffle was a flintlock muzzle loader. When they cut it, they even cut the ramrod.
My old man brought back an M1 carbine complete aside from the barrel being off and taped to the stock . Never found out where it ended up shame
You’re lucky you got a useable barrel out of it! Great work.
Bonsoir, if you really want to make this carbine (and you don't find enought parts in the US) the guy I bought my carbine from is importing them directly from Danemark. And thus he has a lot of parts that are not regulated (like barrel shroud for carbines, the 1889/24 sight, original stocks...)
Absolutely fascinating process. You turned what was probably a "drill rifle" and wall hanger into a shooter. Extremely well done, sir!!!!!😊😊😊😊😊
As to why the barrel was cut, I dont know. However there have been cases of Dutch Mannlichers that had big holes drilled in the barrels mid section, under the handguards in order to "booby trap" them for invading German soldiers in WW2
Awesome history fact!
Curious if a portion of those holes were in the same fashion as the British Enfields that had holes drilled; they were all prominently marked “DP” for drill purpose only.
I don't know where you get that information but drilling holes in the barrels mid section has been requirement for deactivation since like 1970 up till 2014 in most European countries. Originally there was three holes in the size of the bore usually put on the underside of the barrel since thats least vidible place. later law changed and three holes in the size of outer dimension of the barrel + welded chamber and bolthead cut by 45 degrees appeared. Since early 2000s every functional part of the weapon has to be welded shut. Anyway it has nothing to do with traps and certainly nothing with ww2. Especially since hole in the barrel will not make it explode unless theres some obstruction added to it. Automatic Glocks have holes in the barrels by factoryfor example
@@GetTheFO The P14 barrels with holes in the chamber have a way to be safely repaired since spare original barrels on the surplus market are gone. The Dutch booby trap barrels can be too, though it's a different process.
The bobby trap barrels were usually in the down position in the forearm area. The reason for this is when fired the barrel would literally detonate the stock sending wood and hot gases at thousands of PSI into the hand and or arm of the shooter, rendering him useless for battle at that moment, and possible permanently.
@@bad74maverick1 Interesting! I’d never read that they’d intentionally made holes like that with the intent of being an anti-personnel method, looks like I’ve got new reading to do!
This was an absolute pleasure to watch. Thank you for sharing and excellent work.
12:45 Dang dude save some for the rest of us lol. Great work.
The usual ploy was to drive an aluminium rod down the barrel using a mallet. Aluminium rod may be pulled out or punched out using a bronze driver that slips easily into the bore, if the barrel is soaked in boiling water to expand it a little without destroying the heat treatment.
That's what's going on here! Thank you. Was wondering what happened here.
I would imagine that the barrel was cut as part of the deactivation process, in theory ensuring that it couldnt be used again even if the plug was removed
you could send the barrel to a good gunsmith and have both parts threaded and timed for the rifling, it has been done before. Ive seen that done on a video where someone tested a 44" barrel, they were testing for muzzle velocity but idk which caliber. with this process you may lose about 1" of barrel length but you can also thread the muzzle and add a sacrificial 1" steel piece to extend the barrel to the original length
I have done threading projects like this. They require a very fine pitch (28 DPI or greater). The problem is chucking the barrel for turning and threading. the taper in the barrel makes it more difficult to align, but it can be done. If you are really good and take your time, the connection will be invisible -- you will not be able to see or feel it. Expect to pay a price for this kind of premium work.
I think this just became my favorite channel!
Such a shame so much of the world doesnt have enough trust in its fellow man to allow ownerships of firearms. No weapon should be "deactivated". Especially not old ones.
Something strange about that barrel. The end with the chamber looked like it was sawed off, but the bore had a chamfer, which could require a lathe. If set up in a lathe, then it should have been parted on the lathe. And if you look at the other end (the extension), it looks like it was parted with a lathe. I bet this was originally a 22" barrel and someone only restored it to hang on the wall by adding an extension from a damaged long barrel. That would also explain why the barrels did not line up. I'm 99% sure these are two different barrels and 80% sure, your 22" barrel was original for another rifle.
Maybe it's the video but the chamber end is smooth and there were some tool marks on the cut end.
The aluminum probably just transfered onto the lands. Did you give any consideration to hand lapping the affected area before counter boring the barrel. Just a thought
Если бы возникли трудности с алюминиевой пробкой,можно было бы использовать ртуть. Она "съедает" алюминий,а стали вреда не наносит.
that was some great looking rifling, the only rifles i have that can shoot are a Chassepot needle rifle and a Swedish field hunter(fältjägare) M/1815-20 .70 cal short rifle. both have the correct model bayonets(both are short swords!). the rifling in those rifles are what you would expect from, one being well kept and survived a war and the other has survived time in target practice, both using black powder and corrosive caps.
I don't know anyone here in the nordics who use a Krag but i bet they are used for sports or are sitting forgotten in many old Norwegians gun lockers. Back in the day there was a surplus of K98 rifles after the war and you could go to Norway to get one very cheap and original or converted to other common calibers as 6.5mm, 30-06, or 9.3mm and other calibers. must have been a tremendous amount of surplus rifles of any kind from the war that was brought home and unfortunately "sporterized".
I've heard Krags are very cheap in Norway and Denmark, but I assume that's partially due to the requirements to own them.
I haven't ventured into muzzle loading or paper cartridge breechloaders.. yet. Last gun show I went to an acquaintance showed me the Kammerlader he recently got. Now I need one of those!
Krags are literally everywhere in Norway, check out finn
@rakumprojects alot of them have been run through and aren't accurate anymore
Can't wait to the the carbine version of this rifle using the shorter barrel, I bet it will look cool.
I've uses some pretty tiny boring bars. Obviously, depth of cut is a real driver of speed, but if you were hoping for concentricity I think one would've been just fine (though not as fast, obviously).
omfg. You're worse than I am. That drawer shot is amazing. People give me shit for having 4 Krag receivers sitting around. But that is another level.
Fantastic job. Fascinated only because I was born in Denmark. But now you have my attention. Love, old rifles.
there is a aluminum look a like with which you can cast to determine chamber diameter; maybe that was used to plug chamber
I think its called Cero-safe. Not sure if thats the correct spelling.
Cerrosafe. It's around the same consistency as lead so that drill bit would have eaten right into it.
If you don't have Cerrosafe, you can use Sulphur. Just be careful of the fumes.@rakumprojects
My late father had a never issued M1889 carbine stamped 1941. It was in immaculate condition, both the stock and all the blueing. I don't know when he got rid of it, but there were no guns left when he went to the retirement home.
Nice! An artillery or infantry carbine is on my list of guns to have. A few of the bare receivers at the end of the video are dated 1941
You could try to mess up the aluminum with gallium that makes aluminum soft and stuff like that
@allen725 - What dicktionary are you using that those are two 'different things'. Except for the fabric and the town in Belgium, both spellings are for the same thing. Are you inferring that it was cut so it could leave Duffel, Belgium ? Or so it could be wrapped in 'duffel' fabric?
The ole foot against vice technique 😁
Do you think counter boring would be viable for some of the guns coming out of Ethiopia that have rifling but completely shot out muzzles?
As long as the rifling is only damaged at the crown, yes. Problem is that most RTI rifles have rust and pitting throughout the whole bore.
@rakumprojects Sounds like I need lathe... A good few of the rifles I've gotten from them have what appear to be serviceable bores, but the muzzles fail the bullet test, and they shoot a little wonky, but not keyholing all over the place either.
Gallium. It destroys aluminum. I've seen videos by 'LockPickingLawyer' where he shows what Gallium can do to the body of an aluminum lock.
Never heard of it, interesting. I'm sure that would have been useful if the whole bore was plugged.
Here's one to watch: [593] Gallium vs. Titalium - Abus Padlock Meets a Gruesome End@@rakumprojects
@@dkeith45very interesting video, thanks for the recommendation!
I don’t think its gallium because it has a very low melting point.
Well, the melting point of Gallium is 85 - 86 degrees F@@flyrightflight
Again, excellent work.
Very nice! Thank you for sharing. Looking forward to sleeve fabrication video.
Nice collection of receivers in that drawer! Had to sell my collection of parts and firearms when I moved away from the states. They are so anal here that an empty cartridge case can get you into big trouble. I even had to modify my .308 cigar punch with three holes in the case just in case they were ever to see it and make a stink about it. The primer hole had been drilled out to allow a screw through to hold the walnut handle I turned for it.
Renactor needed a safe rifle but didn't want extra weight of lead?
Beautiful work!
Have you thought of using gallium on the aluminum to get it out? I don't think it interacts with steel so it might work to get the aluminum out
I wonder if that was zinc?
The barrel was probably deactivated and cut because of EU/Danish laws, guns laws are extremly strict here, and most firearms (if not a a single shot hunting rifle) needs to be deactivated for either museum decorations, or if you as a private person wants to own any kind of old or new firearm.
hope this helps
Depending on the rifling accessibility, if you could find a correct rifling die, you could [have / for future reference] potentially shift the die through the rifling until the cut, leaving it midway, basically screwing the one section onto the other.
That way you might have a (nearly) guaranteed correct alignment
Admittedly im not sure if i would trust a welded together barrel, but if you had a merging method you were confident with that would be a valid option
Hope this helps or inspires a better idea!
(You could, if you know the specs of the rifling, even make a die for it to perform the process, though thats a lot more work)
A barrel plugged with aluminium would retain its original balance / weight as opposed to lead ...just guessing..🤔
Hmm, I hadn't thought of that. Could have been used for re-enacting
U're lucky in Germany for example, a deactivated/pluggedgun would be drilled into the chamber and a steelrod welded into the drillhole. Same thing at the muzzle and added to this, the barrel would be drilled or cut by the diameter of the bullet and lengths of 2inches, right behind the chamber. No way to fix such a demil.
Drilling throws burrs into an existing bore. You need to get in there with tool makers hones to chamfer the rifling. That's why a boring bar would have been the right tool to use. Set your cross slide at 30-45deg and chamfer the rifling as the last operation.
Any recommendations for a boring bar rigid enough? The only thing I have small enough is a cheap set of brazed carbide, so I'd need a new tool anyway.
@@rakumprojects Do you have a steam account so we could talk? or telegram, or skype? is there a private messaging system we could use? I'd be more that willing to explain over a voip call. . . .
It would be much quicker to drive a round in as far as possible , and fire it😂. I've seen shotguns that had dirt in the barrel shot. It's amazing at the wild shapes they make when the barrel burst. I worked in a machine shop. People would bring in guns that had been in all sorts of mean , nasty things done to them.
I would use a hydraulic press but what you did worked fine also. Good save on an old firearm. I have a friend who got a machine gun that was deactivated by the US government that had been sliced right through the receiver. He was able to weld the two sections back together. The gun functions normally and the only noticeable indication that it was welded back together is the fact that the metal he used is a bit different than the receiver metal. Thee bolt was also put back together the same way.
I would have tried lapping the bore before resorting to counter boring it.
I'm thinking most of the ring would have been smooth enough to not be a problem with accuracy and / or copper fouling.
If it didn't work, then counter boring would have been the last option.
After counter boring, if you take a ball-bearing slightly smaller than the counter bore and weld it to a rod, then use a little bit of valve lapping compound you can remove any roughness from the end of the rifling.
I didn't want to affect the rest of the rifling trying to remove the ring, thats why I didn't try lapping. The ball bearing in lapping compound is a good tip, I might just try that out to remove any burrs
Wow imagine you got a welded chamber atleast 3 holes and another weld in the barrel then a bolt stripped of its pin grinded off the front and welded in place
I'm lucky this rifle didn't have that done to it. Those are well beyond repair
Considering the fact there's already a slight crown on the barrel, I'm guessing it was either already a carbine barrel, or was previously cut down to one.
I think that was just to deburr it, because that does not seem like a crown
If the front end of the barrel had actually been welded on, I thought you might be able to bore it out and reline the whole barrel.
It's possible. Relining a rifle barrel is a lot of work though, outside of my skill set and tooling unfortunately.
Relining a smokeless powder rifle barrel is almost impossible, save for small caliber, rimfire and black powder, especially if cut in two. A drilled hole is different, but still takes a competent gunsmith. Cartridges with lower pressures are okay but military calibers are not. A perfect example of this is the Italian Vetterlli conversions to 6.5×52 during WW1. A fine gun using black powder, not designed for smokeless and shouldn't be shot with it, so hand loads only. A high powered rifle barrel is the same, even lined it is an easy breaking point.
What other goodies are in those sliding drawers, looks like you have plenty of future projects in there.
I have a bunch of things tucked away. Just need the time and parts to build
Where do you purchase deactivated guns? Might be interested to get a deactivated gun myself.
Any gun shop in the US will sell deactivated guns alongside functional guns since they require the same licenses/paperwork to own
@@rakumprojects do you perhaps know where or how you can get one in Europe?
@@SomeRandomPolishGunFanatic I wouldn't know. And judging from other comments, Europe has much stricter laws regarding deactivating firearms
It was probably brought home from war (explaining the duffle cut) and was plugged at home using aluminum. Maybe whoever brought it home had kids or grand kids and didn't want them loading it and accidentally shooting it so they filled it melted aluminum from empty cans
Try using bore paste to lap it out.
i wonder if firing a couple of rounds would have taken out the marks
could you show how to reactivate a barrell complelety filled with lead?
I'd like to since that was the plan with this video initially. I'd have to find one first though
Hi, Krag Jørgensen is a Norwegian rifle. Can you find the production marks? Best regards, Annie
This one was made in Denmark. Denmark and the US also produced and used Krag rifles in addition to Norway.
Thanks for the video :o) Was nicely detailed and interesting to watch. Easily got my thumbs up!
I'm curious, with the front half of the barrel can it be reused again? Like maybe make a homemade gun with it?
It could be made to work for some sort of pistol cartridge where the bullet diameter matches the bore. The outside diameter is too small to cut a chamber for a rifle cartridge
I have an idea barrel liner if you drill out the old rifle in both sections of the barrel. Weld the 2 barrels together Drill out the rifling And insert barrel liner. whole length of the barrel.
That's pretty cool. Do you know of any good places to source deactivated weapons from?
Nothing in particular. I got the rifle from a dealer that mostly sells C&R firearms
😂❤ yes you're actually doing it when you swapped out the barrels before I was kind of let down cuz I thought you were just going to trash that Barrel subscribed
I'd think a lot of chamber-end plugs could be removed by using a sub-caliber drill bit to drill out the center of the plug to weaken it.
For cutting alignment and reconnecting the spare barrel, may be able to rebuild it with a barrel liner. I would think some welding or maybe some kind of band brazing may need to be done to reinforce the cut section though unless the barrel liner is strong enough to hold. If you can get the work done might be possible to rig up that section of the barrel like a screw and nut then weld it up but still use a liner.
A fine, fine job, thank you so much.
Would that ring cause any real accuracy issues? I have milsurp rifles with infinitely more bore damage that are tolerable.
I'm not sure if it would. I also have some rifles with worse bores that shoot ok, including one with a bulged barrel. But since the ring was so close to the end, counter boring as a prevention measure wasn't too hard.
Don't throw away that piece of bbl, you could make a silhouette gun with it. Or sleeve it down & make a decent zip gun, legally of course 😊
Wait Wait! Dont through that barrel section away. It will make some nest single shot derringers!
I'll definitely keep it. I can't think of too many 8mm caliber pistol cartridges it could be chambered in, maybe 8mm French Ordinance.
The 32 ACP has been used. They sell chamber adapters from Alaska that shot cartridges from rifle barrels..
I'd guess a lower powered 32 would make for some interesting projects.
That could be a single shot Carbine. I'm not that familiar with the cartridge. Clynsrs does sale chamber reamers so that fabrication remains a popular use for old barrels.
No real sense in it as everything is there already but fun.
Many likely turned into silencesd rifles by counterboring and adding suppression holes.
Indeed I'd wonder how many curios and relics have been modified into pistols and WWII style specialty weapons.
8mm Nambu is produced as well.
@@rakumprojects would make a really neat .40 S&W/10mm barrel.
I was thinking it be pretty to make the end as a muzzle brake extra peace on top some treads redirecting up n sideways might kick allot less but adds less pressure to already short barell yet may be fun to make video of that
Not a bad idea. But for these rifles I try to keep them as original as possible
@@rakumprojects I respect an authentic view it's nice to be looking original n well kept but great video seen the last got this recommended I like your job great work 🙂 and you do be doing great job too the fewer well kept and remain working as much as you can restore the work off you do an amazing job thanks for the content
If the barrel was simply cut, why is the muzzle look like it has a cut crown? If it was just cut it wouldn't have a crown...
I'm not sure why there's a crown. I think maybe it was done to center the aluminum plug before hammering it in
Fascinating, thank you!
can i take the forward end of the barrel kind sir?
Won't there be a rough edge where the drill stopped in the bore? This is a inner crown so to speak and all crowns need De burring
Fascinating. Makes me rethink an eddystone barrel sitting around here
Is it just plugged? that's easy. If the chamber is drilled there is a safe way now to repair DP barrels that have an otherwise mint bore. Australians who cannot get barrels and have DP rifles which have to be registered as real guns and licensed the same came up with a way.
@@bad74maverick1 Yep the bore is just plugged. Its not one of the UK DP rifles that are bored out laterally at the chamber. People say that rods were welded into the barrel. If its just lead tho that would be fantastic. Ill dig it out and have a look and see what I have! Tell me about the method you're describing, would love to hear more!
@@herrcobblermachen I am actually thinking about doing a youtube channel on the process on my other (new not started) gun channel. So:
Pull the barrel first. Get a section of .303 barrel or .30 caliber barrel (fal, bad M1 whatever, .303 is preferable), turn down the outside of the section just until it's flat, no contours. Bore out the barrel chamber to the case mouth the same ID as the OD of the barrel stub. Thread the holes on either side of the chamber. Cut the barrel section the length of the bored out chamber to the face of the chamber if it's a little long no problem we can turn it to factory chamber face specs. Press in the stub into the chamber (make sure it's a somewhat tight pressing). Silver solder the stub in place. Counter sink the stub on either side inside the threaded chamber holes. Run set screws in each side of the chamber holes and crank them down as hard as they will go. Weld over the chamber holes making sure a good solid weld with the set screws, not just on top of them. Chamber ream the barrel, check the chamber face, cut the extractor groove and reinstall the barrel.
It sounds like a lot of work but it's not bad. Plus most of the DP P-14's are numbers matching and mint condition, not to mention good luck finding a loose barrel on the surplus market!
awesome view on the rifling. this video is top shelf youtube
Zinc alloy
mixture ..??
The question being tho, if a fire arm is deacrivated, does activating it make it manufactured again
Yes
I'm a new subscriber I can't wait to see all of your videos thank you for sharing your knowledge and expertise and GOD-BLESS
Very nice work!
you should make a single shot rifle with it
Thats a great save, and now you hve an alternative barrel. .
Coyld use galium. It basicly eats aluminum and makes it extremely soft
Just found your channel and Subscribed. Very nice work
Re commissioning de activated weapons does collectors no favours. It just increases the restrictions, to the point here in Ireland where it is virtually impossible to decommission any gun.
Real cool and informative video
It might have been plugged with zinc, low melting point but hard as nails
I love your parts drawer man.
Hi,
Why not try to weld a piece of pipe the same diameter as the barrel to compensate for the missing length. I've seen people making Sten with extended barrel like this in order to comply with the US laws. It seems to work with 9mm, but I have to admit that i don't know what would happen with 8mm Krag... But it would allow you to put back a number matching Krag, even if not 100% perfect...
Happy New Year
I could do that if I wanted to re-build the full length rifle. I wouldn't even need to permanently attach the forward section, that's only for barrels under 16"
Aluminium can be removed by using sodium hydroxide (caustic soda).
Aluminium is a reactive metal and reacts with sodium hydroxide (NaOH) to form sodium aluminate and hydrogen:
2 Al(s) + 2 NaOH(aq) + 6 H2O(l) → 2 NaAl(OH)4 + 3 H2(g)
In this reaction, an aluminum oxide-hydroxide compound (sodium aluminate) is formed in the solution, while hydrogen gas is simultaneously released.
Man, I need a krag drawer
Why wouldn't you just re-sleeve the barrel and join the two parts together?
That's an incredibly difficult job on a bottle necked rifle cartridge. Would be easier to make a whole new barrel.
@@rakumprojects Fair enough. Though I can't help but wonder if that difficulty may have been worth it to maintain the rifle in the most original state as possible.
Now you got it out anyway. But when hearing it was aluminium i thought about gallium.
Unless I'm not reading your measurements right, a live shell could have been chambered in this rifle. That would have made this a death trap waiting to happen.
Good job.
Punch and drill is genius. Lead is grabby and horrible to drill, while aluminum is ... not.
Good brain usage.
Good job!
Could u not tig weld it back together then barrel line it
Or find way to put rifle back together in the barrel
you could melt the alum. just like you would with lead, very low melting point......
When my bore was plugged, i just had my man Raul ream it out real good
What are the economics of surplus firearms where you live? If I had this rifle as an American I would have commissioned a gun smith to machine a new barrel from a barrel blank in a popular modem caliber like .308, it looks like all the cuts to fit could be done on a lathe
I'm in the US too. I like to keep all of my surplus firearms as original as possible, which explains the lengths I went to in order to save this barrel.
You could have heated the barrel to expand it and make the plug looser.
It was cut to fit in a suitcase! couldn’t bring overly long items home!
Great job!
As a secondary idea and I’m sounding like an anti-gunner here, (but I’m not) for automotive use, do a little grinding and welding where barrel was cut to reenforce strength and grind 2 flat sides on chamber. Would make a cool pry bar.
Maybe they deactivated it with aluminum because they didn't have any lead hahahahaah