These videos have been a real treat and a treasure trove of knowledge. It’s nice to see someone who loves a largely more forgotten rifle amongst the more popular ones.
With my own Danish Krag with a stuck barrel jacket my next plan of attack is a LOT more heat and some more Kroil while it’s hot. After a couple treatments of that I’ll either fab a pin wrench like yours and try again with heat or invest in a higher quality strap wrench. My previous attempt broke the rubber strap wrench I was using. Since then I’ve been alternating Kroil between the barrel jacket threads and around where the front of the barrel peeks out of the jacket. I am convinced the answer is a lot of heat and more brute force and ignorance than I’m comfortable dishing out. Mine is matching and I’d hate to break anything!
I love watching these videos and your love for old surplus firearms. When I rebarreled my grandfathers old eddystone 1917 enfield it was a bugger to get off, basically was forced to keep slowly cut slits into the barrel one cut at a time to get it loose enough to unscrew it. The machine they used to put those barrels on at the old ww2 factory they made sure it wasn't coming loose lol.
It's probably stuck because it's not round anymore in that area. You might try to remove it by reversing the method used to tighten it. I think you're close with the block and rear sight you had in place. Oh and add much more heat, maybe a propane torch with a pipe attachment, those provide quick even high heat.
I’ve been doing the same a bunch of Spanish 1916 actions and parts I got a while back, I wanted to make new stocks for them but didn’t know how but seeing you videos has given me ideas and inspiration
If you do freeze and heat cycles it will eventually break free. Stick it in a freezer. let it set several hours. Get it back out and apply modest heat. Do this until it breaks loose. Add Kroil to it at each heating. The contraction expansion will eventually cause the threads to loosen up just enough. Each piece of metal will have slightly different contraction- expansion rates thus it works every time. Trust the Zen Master!
I had a similar issue with a tight jacket on a Gew 88. I just made a skinny, tight clamp out of oak and secured it on the back end of the jacket over the threads, similar to what you are doing. I coated it with wood rosin and only applied force until it "popped" loose. It unscrewed the rest of the way by hand. The back of the jacket was supported by the rear threads the entire time with no damage to the jacket at all. But you really do need to fix that rear sight properly. I don't think an epoxy fix will do it justice...
This is why I'm glad my Krag doesn't have the barrel jacket! Good luck with getting that off. I would suggest a propane torch and heating the jacket up really fast to expand the metal .005 thousand in the jig and lightly tapping with a polished ball peened hammer. Maybe? I've never dealt with barrel jackets and usually stay away from surplus rifles that have them. I will be looking out for the next video to see what you come up with. God Bless
When I briefly fell into the restoration rabbit hole, it was always the damned wood that caused me the most grief -- whether finding original or repro. I should have paid more attention in woodworking class. At any rate, good luck finishing this one up, whenever that happens!
Good to see Rakum is a CZ fan as well (I saw that P-07 on the shooting bench!). Any plans to work on some antique Czech rifles? Would love to see a VZ52.
I suggest using more heat from a propane torch on the threaded portion where the barrel jacket mounts on the. Don’t use an acetylene torch because that will melt the jacket. After heating quickly cool the jacket with air. This might take two or three applications but eventually it will break loose the threads. Also put more Kroil into the hole before trying to turn off
Something that has worked for me with small parts that are over torqued and rust jacked is to put them in a jar, cover them with Kroil, and let them simmer in a double boiler for a few days. I'm not sure how you could do that with a barreled action. The biggest thing that I have tried it on is a 1914 mauser pistol to save the side plate screws. edit: I have to correct myself it was the Intratec with the side plate screws stuck, the Mausers side plate was stuck it doesn’t have screws.
Hey rakum, i have been interested in buying or building a danish krag for a while, what is a good cost for a whole rifle and what is the cost to biuld a rifle from parts? Also where would i find parts to biuld a whole rifle? Hope you have a great day today
I wouldn't recommend trying to piece one together from parts since there's no reliable parts sources out there. For example I have a bolt that's complete except for a broken extractor. I've been looking for one for a year now and haven't seen one yet. I'd probably have to find another complete bolt instead. Complete rifles usually go for around $600-1000.
My suggestion for the rear sight is to braze it in place. If that is too permanent then epoxy could work. The barrel jacket is a tricky one. A lot more heat and a strap wrench might do it.
I think only way to remove barrel jacket is to use torch to heat it up more than heat gun. It is a risky way, but if you prepare it properly(cover rest in wet towel and do it quickly as possible) and do it with lots of jerky pushes instead of one... it should move. I do that often with small stuck parts on cars, but as its think metal... its more risky but could work.
I have done a lot of tool making in my career. Would love to spend some time in your shop and help you build some tooling for your projects. While wood is good in some applications metal is much better. You could really use a good action wrench and receiver clamp for starts. Have always wanted a Krag. Thought them to be ugly at first but they grow on you and the machine work in them is first rate. Fully machined and not a stamping to be found. I rebarreled one years ago for a guy. Was amazed it had left hand square threads. While not a problem still I would thought them to use V thread.
You may be able to adjust the rear sight from above, either by removing one of the original screws, which would be ideal by threading and putting in a screw, or by making a new hole, threading the barrel cover and putting in a screw from the outside in.
What tool are you using to put the pin back in and to push the sights back down... That looks like a great tool for reinstalling pins. Smooth jaws that stay parallel as you push it down is just the ticket.
When removing stuck coupling either water pipe or stuck nuts, judicious application of a smooth face hammer, at the anvil. on the exterior of the coupling, will very slightly stretch the offending coupling. Judicious, in this context, is light taps leaving no marks. Taking the time to construct a gauge block a couple thousandths larger than the ring might decrease the possibility of marring the ring. Many light taps with 2 oz. hammer??
Try opening the access holes in the barrel jacket the larger holes will be covered by the stock when you are finished. Use a Dremel with a cutoff wheel to increase the access holes. Good luck with this project.
The barrel is only a bit smaller than the inside of the jacket at that point, so there's no way I could access the screws even if the holes were bigger
Did you think about using a plastic handle to tap on the sleeve to loosen it up? Put your spanner on it, put some pressure on it and tap on it . work around both sides and both directions and use the oil.
I think getting some penetrating oil, time with regular application of the oil to hopefully get it into the threads and perhaps using some rubber to get more friction to hopefully motivate it to come off
I'm surprised that you didn't weld a new prong for your barrel shroud wrench and wrab a strap wrench like for oil filters for other side of rear sight to apply a bit more force in tandem. Try map gas, not a heat gun for a bit more heat that is below the melting of parts threshold
Not sure how it’s stuck, perhaps it could be deformed slightly, but if it’s stuck from overtightening or corrosion, heat it until it’s really hot and then spray PB Blaster on any openings. The metal will contract and suck in the penetrating oil. I’m not sure if that would be recommended on guns, but I’ve gotten many rusted automotive bolts/studs loose using that method.
I'm sure you tried it but why not use a strap wrench one the thread portion of the barrel jacket? It should help with getting the barrel jacket off but it may also clamp it tighter to the threads or if your not careful it could crush an unsupported section.
more differential heating and cooling: I think you need like 150F delta to get .0005" expansion. Maybe Propane heat to the jacket and cooling water through the barrel.
Some unsolicited advice if you dont mind. I would see if you could get the shank of the jacket in a barrel vise and see if you could get it loose that way. You could also try getting a proper pin Spanner (by proper i mean tool steel) and attempt that. For more invasive,. But not completely destructive methods You could also try getting an old pipe wrench, and fabricating some brass jaws to replace the steel ones (which may be more work than its worth, but hey, content!) You may also consider soldering a lug onto the jacket, and using that as a wrenching point. I know for a Gew 88 or two that ive handled i needed to hit on the bottom lug of the barrel jacket with an air hammer to get it to loosen up. You could also try heating the action, and then adding kroil, to take advantage of the capillary action that method provides. You may also want to lightly peen the outside of the shank, as the shocks can loosen up rust.
what if you glued the entire (or a large portion) of the barrel jacket to a jig with some kind of soluble glue to apply torque evenly across it, then dissolved the glue out?
@rakumprojects I got one from a museum back in 1997. I am very happy with it. I then got a Winchester Lee straight pull from Schell. At around the same time.
It' s a nightmare when things can't taken apart. I've struggling to get a butt stock screw out on a Lee Enfield no4 no no avail. I'm running out of ideas. the butt stock itself is cracked and needs repair. I want to keep the original but that screw is a pain in the neck. Any ideas?
I have a large flat heat screwdriver from harbor freight specifically for removing Enfield buttstocks. Try using penetrating oil and using pliers on the shaft of the screwdriver to apply more leverage. Just make sure the tip doesn't slip off and the rifle is held tightly.
@@rakumprojects yep that exactly what I've been doing for several weeks. The screw welded itself due to fair amount or rust in the thread I guess. This rifle was stored in a bad place. Gonna try that process again and again until it hopefully unscrews... the action and barrel are in very good condition though
Make a new pin wrench, but make it in two pieces. The first half consisting of a handle section with the pin protruding through the bottom of the U bend in a saddle clamp, where the handle and pin are in alignment. The second half is the same, but with no pin. Both halves are then bolted together around the barrel. The pin should probably be made of hardened material considering what happened to the other one. I would machine the two saddle clamps with their respective threaded holes for handles and bolts from one block of material to fit the barrel perfectly, then cut it in half.
I picked up an m1912 krag that has a great condition reciever and bolt but the the barrel is swiss cheese. Not sure what I can do about it. Put 40rds and it started off by key holing really bad but then began to shoot straight. I'd like to replace the barrel but seems unlikely.
Maybe get the jacket hotter with a propane torch, heat the jacket so it expanse more than what the heat gun can do and then give it a go with your pin wrench.
Let soak the kroil more and aply more heat maybe even boil down the whole action in water and clean it tru compleately then soak it again in kroil and try again with the grench and ligth taps from a lill hammer with polished head in the collar ,it will eventualy soften the gunk and let penetrate the oil ,let it work inside and keep aplying kroil heat and cool it down till it break loose maybe even you can use dry ice to cool down the collar before repeating the heat remember that the barrel acts as a big heat disipator and yu will need some time to heat and cool down the collar sometimes a heat gun is not enough.
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Out of all the things in the world that you could hoard
This man hoards krags…
And I’m in full support of it.
I'm glad if I didn't win that auction, you did. Someone who can get that beauty up and running again.
These videos have been a real treat and a treasure trove of knowledge. It’s nice to see someone who loves a largely more forgotten rifle amongst the more popular ones.
That's a serious krag addiction, those dealers will do anything to put a krag in your hands and make you come back for more.
With my own Danish Krag with a stuck barrel jacket my next plan of attack is a LOT more heat and some more Kroil while it’s hot. After a couple treatments of that I’ll either fab a pin wrench like yours and try again with heat or invest in a higher quality strap wrench.
My previous attempt broke the rubber strap wrench I was using. Since then I’ve been alternating Kroil between the barrel jacket threads and around where the front of the barrel peeks out of the jacket.
I am convinced the answer is a lot of heat and more brute force and ignorance than I’m comfortable dishing out. Mine is matching and I’d hate to break anything!
Try 2/3 acetone with 1/3 brake oil in a spray bottle, give a good shake prior to spray, cannot be the silicone.
I love watching these videos and your love for old surplus firearms. When I rebarreled my grandfathers old eddystone 1917 enfield it was a bugger to get off, basically was forced to keep slowly cut slits into the barrel one cut at a time to get it loose enough to unscrew it. The machine they used to put those barrels on at the old ww2 factory they made sure it wasn't coming loose lol.
Your enthusiasm is remarkable
It's probably stuck because it's not round anymore in that area. You might try to remove it by reversing the method used to tighten it. I think you're close with the block and rear sight you had in place. Oh and add much more heat, maybe a propane torch with a pipe attachment, those provide quick even high heat.
I’ve been doing the same a bunch of Spanish 1916 actions and parts I got a while back, I wanted to make new stocks for them but didn’t know how but seeing you videos has given me ideas and inspiration
Whatever you put out...I'll watch, precise, up front and very informative videos you put out. Keep it up.👍
Wonderful craftsmanship👍👍👍👍
If you do freeze and heat cycles it will eventually break free. Stick it in a freezer. let it set several hours. Get it back out and apply modest heat. Do this until it breaks loose. Add Kroil to it at each heating. The contraction expansion will eventually cause the threads to loosen up just enough. Each piece of metal will have slightly different contraction- expansion rates thus it works every time. Trust the Zen Master!
I had a similar issue with a tight jacket on a Gew 88. I just made a skinny, tight clamp out of oak and secured it on the back end of the jacket over the threads, similar to what you are doing. I coated it with wood rosin and only applied force until it "popped" loose. It unscrewed the rest of the way by hand. The back of the jacket was supported by the rear threads the entire time with no damage to the jacket at all. But you really do need to fix that rear sight properly. I don't think an epoxy fix will do it justice...
This is why I'm glad my Krag doesn't have the barrel jacket! Good luck with getting that off. I would suggest a propane torch and heating the jacket up really fast to expand the metal .005 thousand in the jig and lightly tapping with a polished ball peened hammer. Maybe? I've never dealt with barrel jackets and usually stay away from surplus rifles that have them. I will be looking out for the next video to see what you come up with. God Bless
I’ll watch pretty much everything you put out my dude 👍
When I briefly fell into the restoration rabbit hole, it was always the damned wood that caused me the most grief -- whether finding original or repro. I should have paid more attention in woodworking class.
At any rate, good luck finishing this one up, whenever that happens!
Good to see Rakum is a CZ fan as well (I saw that P-07 on the shooting bench!). Any plans to work on some antique Czech rifles? Would love to see a VZ52.
I saw a 52/57 recently for a good deal but passed on it and someone else picked it up soon after. I did just get a CZ 24 pistol in 380
I suggest using more heat from a propane torch on the threaded portion where the barrel jacket mounts on the. Don’t use an acetylene torch because that will melt the jacket. After heating quickly cool the jacket with air. This might take two or three applications but eventually it will break loose the threads. Also put more Kroil into the hole before trying to turn off
Good work Rakum.
Something that has worked for me with small parts that are over torqued and rust jacked is to put them in a jar, cover them with Kroil, and let them simmer in a double boiler for a few days. I'm not sure how you could do that with a barreled action. The biggest thing that I have tried it on is a 1914 mauser pistol to save the side plate screws. edit: I have to correct myself it was the Intratec with the side plate screws stuck, the Mausers side plate was stuck it doesn’t have screws.
ANYTHING you feel like posting i will gladly consume... thabks! From Qc, Canada!
Hey rakum, i have been interested in buying or building a danish krag for a while, what is a good cost for a whole rifle and what is the cost to biuld a rifle from parts? Also where would i find parts to biuld a whole rifle? Hope you have a great day today
I wouldn't recommend trying to piece one together from parts since there's no reliable parts sources out there. For example I have a bolt that's complete except for a broken extractor. I've been looking for one for a year now and haven't seen one yet. I'd probably have to find another complete bolt instead.
Complete rifles usually go for around $600-1000.
Really hope you find a method of removing the barrel jacket. I was tensing as you were trying to remove it. I know that frustration!
My suggestion for the rear sight is to braze it in place. If that is too permanent then epoxy could work.
The barrel jacket is a tricky one. A lot more heat and a strap wrench might do it.
I think only way to remove barrel jacket is to use torch to heat it up more than heat gun. It is a risky way, but if you prepare it properly(cover rest in wet towel and do it quickly as possible) and do it with lots of jerky pushes instead of one... it should move. I do that often with small stuck parts on cars, but as its think metal... its more risky but could work.
I have done a lot of tool making in my career. Would love to spend some time in your shop and help you build some tooling for your projects. While wood is good in some applications metal is much better. You could really use a good action wrench and receiver clamp for starts. Have always wanted a Krag. Thought them to be ugly at first but they grow on you and the machine work in them is first rate. Fully machined and not a stamping to be found. I rebarreled one years ago for a guy. Was amazed it had left hand square threads. While not a problem still I would thought them to use V thread.
The Danish Krags have a V thread. Not sure about Norwegians, I just know that those are left hand thread.
You may be able to adjust the rear sight from above, either by removing one of the original screws, which would be ideal by threading and putting in a screw, or by making a new hole, threading the barrel cover and putting in a screw from the outside in.
krag addict
Kraghead
What tool are you using to put the pin back in and to push the sights back down... That looks like a great tool for reinstalling pins. Smooth jaws that stay parallel as you push it down is just the ticket.
Knipex pliers wrench. Very handy
When removing stuck coupling either water pipe or stuck nuts, judicious application of a smooth face hammer, at the anvil. on the exterior of the coupling, will very slightly stretch the offending coupling. Judicious, in this context, is light taps leaving no marks. Taking the time to construct a gauge block a couple thousandths larger than the ring might decrease the possibility of marring the ring. Many light taps with 2 oz. hammer??
Try opening the access holes in the barrel jacket the larger holes will be covered by the stock when you are finished. Use a Dremel with a cutoff wheel to increase the access holes. Good luck with this project.
The barrel is only a bit smaller than the inside of the jacket at that point, so there's no way I could access the screws even if the holes were bigger
Did you think about using a plastic handle to tap on the sleeve to loosen it up?
Put your spanner on it, put some pressure on it and tap on it . work around both sides and both directions and use the oil.
I think getting some penetrating oil, time with regular application of the oil to hopefully get it into the threads and perhaps using some rubber to get more friction to hopefully motivate it to come off
i totally just love your videos!
Had a magazine tube stuck once soaked in 50/50 atf and acetone mix and got a good strap wrench and it broke free without much effort
Kroil is good but the homebrew 50/50 mix you mentioned is fantastic.
@@baileyparadis1815 yeah it’s undefeated in my experience from exhaust bolts on engines to rusted surfaces fused together it works well
Could you please tell me what kind of pliers you use to press in pins? I could use a pair myself.
Knipex pliers wrench. Very handy
Have you tried vibrating the jacket off? With enough vibration everything will get loose eventually
I'm surprised that you didn't weld a new prong for your barrel shroud wrench and wrab a strap wrench like for oil filters for other side of rear sight to apply a bit more force in tandem. Try map gas, not a heat gun for a bit more heat that is below the melting of parts threshold
Not sure how it’s stuck, perhaps it could be deformed slightly, but if it’s stuck from overtightening or corrosion, heat it until it’s really hot and then spray PB Blaster on any openings. The metal will contract and suck in the penetrating oil. I’m not sure if that would be recommended on guns, but I’ve gotten many rusted automotive bolts/studs loose using that method.
I love your videos man keep it up
I'm sure you tried it but why not use a strap wrench one the thread portion of the barrel jacket? It should help with getting the barrel jacket off but it may also clamp it tighter to the threads or if your not careful it could crush an unsupported section.
more differential heating and cooling: I think you need like 150F delta to get .0005" expansion. Maybe Propane heat to the jacket and cooling water through the barrel.
You could also try a home made autoclave with kroil and compressed air in pvc to get the oil in where it needs to go.
Some unsolicited advice if you dont mind.
I would see if you could get the shank of the jacket in a barrel vise and see if you could get it loose that way.
You could also try getting a proper pin Spanner (by proper i mean tool steel) and attempt that.
For more invasive,. But not completely destructive methods
You could also try getting an old pipe wrench, and fabricating some brass jaws to replace the steel ones (which may be more work than its worth, but hey, content!)
You may also consider soldering a lug onto the jacket, and using that as a wrenching point. I know for a Gew 88 or two that ive handled i needed to hit on the bottom lug of the barrel jacket with an air hammer to get it to loosen up.
You could also try heating the action, and then adding kroil, to take advantage of the capillary action that method provides.
You may also want to lightly peen the outside of the shank, as the shocks can loosen up rust.
what if you glued the entire (or a large portion) of the barrel jacket to a jig with some kind of soluble glue to apply torque evenly across it, then dissolved the glue out?
Great work. Are you getting any from the CMP?
No, they seem very overpriced. You can find them at auctions or shops for a couple hundred less than they're charging.
@rakumprojects I got one from a museum back in 1997. I am very happy with it. I then got a Winchester Lee straight pull from Schell. At around the same time.
Are danish krags right treaded?
Yes they are, just like US Krags. Norwegians are left hand.
It' s a nightmare when things can't taken apart. I've struggling to get a butt stock screw out on a Lee Enfield no4 no no avail. I'm running out of ideas. the butt stock itself is cracked and needs repair. I want to keep the original but that screw is a pain in the neck. Any ideas?
I have a large flat heat screwdriver from harbor freight specifically for removing Enfield buttstocks. Try using penetrating oil and using pliers on the shaft of the screwdriver to apply more leverage. Just make sure the tip doesn't slip off and the rifle is held tightly.
@@rakumprojects yep that exactly what I've been doing for several weeks. The screw welded itself due to fair amount or rust in the thread I guess. This rifle was stored in a bad place. Gonna try that process again and again until it hopefully unscrews... the action and barrel are in very good condition though
I know nothing about these rifles. What wa the purpose of the barrel jacket?
It was thought that having the barrel suspended within a tube solved the problems of heat expansion and handling when hot
What about freezing it first? Then heating just the jacket.
If you do a 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid it makes a great penetration oil
Make a new pin wrench, but make it in two pieces. The first half consisting of a handle section with the pin protruding through the bottom of the U bend in a saddle clamp, where the handle and pin are in alignment. The second half is the same, but with no pin. Both halves are then bolted together around the barrel. The pin should probably be made of hardened material considering what happened to the other one. I would machine the two saddle clamps with their respective threaded holes for handles and bolts from one block of material to fit the barrel perfectly, then cut it in half.
I picked up an m1912 krag that has a great condition reciever and bolt but the the barrel is swiss cheese. Not sure what I can do about it. Put 40rds and it started off by key holing really bad but then began to shoot straight. I'd like to replace the barrel but seems unlikely.
Maybe get the jacket hotter with a propane torch, heat the jacket so it expanse more than what the heat gun can do and then give it a go with your pin wrench.
That poor rifle. Bubba needs to stop... I wonder what happened to the stock. Did bubba eat it?
Please do another stock building so i can learn from you please
Let soak the kroil more and aply more heat maybe even boil down the whole action in water and clean it tru compleately then soak it again in kroil and try again with the grench and ligth taps from a lill hammer with polished head in the collar ,it will eventualy soften the gunk and let penetrate the oil ,let it work inside and keep aplying kroil heat and cool it down till it break loose maybe even you can use dry ice to cool down the collar before repeating the heat remember that the barrel acts as a big heat disipator and yu will need some time to heat and cool down the collar sometimes a heat gun is not enough.
Try soaking the barrel in kerosene for a couple of days!
On voit rien avec le tableau que vous êtes en train de t'écrire il y a pas d'image avoir je comprends pas la peine de m'expliquer
man torch dat jacket
Bro just loves krags
This is very unusual rifle that is very good
Pls another kar98 video
The next few videos will be back to the Kar 98 project
Okay
हमे चाहिए
do you actually talk like this or is it Ai lol