Nice video, much better than those other "restoration" videos on the site. I'd say the sling swivel is replacement is up to you, if you do replace it I'd also get the rear sight parts at the same time. It would be odd replace the swivel but not the rear sight slider. 13:52 That little part is the actual sear, that's what engages with the cocking piece and lets it fly when the trigger is pulled. I don't know why Mannlicher made it like that, but it is how it is. 42:34 The sights on the Austrian guns (this includes the 1888/90) are in Schritt. Schritt is an old measurement system, and it's ~.75 of a meter from what I've been told.
Thanks for watching! I think I'll leave the sling swivel as is, I've grown accustomed to it. I'm going to keep an eye out for a sight slider, just so the rear sight doesn't look bare like it does now.
@@rakumprojects Understandable, hopefully it keeps chugging along with no issues. Good luck hunting down a slider and keeper screw (Note: sliders for the carbines are different from the rifles) Also I gotta watch the rest of your vids now, thanks for linking them in the C&Rsenal server
A well made and well executed video, as always. Always admire someone's attention to detail and I hope the bore isn't a complete loss. Fingers crossed and good luck 🤞 😉
Hi, just to let you know you can buy right angle screw drivers. Look them up. L shaped screwdrivers that looks like a hex key but with flat ends. Gives you a ton more leverage and does not bend. Helped me a lot in my projects.
I got a mannlicher m95 carbine and I used your video as a reference on what tools and resources to get to clean it up with. It does have one very small crack similar to your rifle but the everything is intact but the cleaning rod. The bore does have plenty of rifling left but the pitting is there.
Such a well-produced video, and quality work on the clean-up, as well. Not sure I’ve ever seen anyone using that popsicle stick technique before but looks pretty effective and I’ll have to bear it in mind for my own projects.
Thanks! It's mostly for removing the dried on gunk, such as the stuff that's usually found along the wood line. The first few guns I conserved (years ago) I didn't remove it first and it ended up making a huge mess after boiling. I used a whole can of brake cleaner to remove all of it from my carding wheel!
Very good boiling it to convert the rust, your on the right track. You need to boil everything and avoid scraping off rust it will create white spots. Boil the whole action then follow through with bore cleaning and carding, you may have to boil or steam several times to convert everything. Mark Novak's channel explains the process. I have been doing it for years and brought back quite a few nice pieces.
@@rakumprojects I also for got to mention, shooting FMJs through it really helps knock all the left over hard junk out, I found this working on my 88/90s and 88/95
The first thing i bought from RTI was one of these. ITs in very nice condition with a really nice bore. The stock looks fantastic actually i was very surprised. Hardly even a knick on it. AOI marked too. cant read the Mil acceptance date but it looks like WW1 era. It wasnt wire wheeled because the bands were completely covered in light rust. no unit marking but my 88/90 does and it looks like it served on the eastern front during WW1. The 88-90 was great too. the bore leaves a lil to be desired but i think it will shoot good with flat based bullets. All the 88-90s have worn out barrels from what ive heard.
Finally got mine from RTI…. For $150 I got lucky and all of the metal is present except for the sight slider (I expected that too be the missing) But mine has about 75% of the bluing left…. A very nice bore for what it is… Strong rifling…. Action isn’t necessarily smooth but it’s fast ….. Down side is the stock it’s all there with no cracks… but it was a later Elm wood stock ….. and it’s shrunk and looks and feels like a cheese grater I have a handguard with no cracks… well 2 handguards technically because it’s cut right under the rear band So I’m sure they are prices from 2 separate handguards done as a field repair in Ethiopia most likely… The sight sliders are seemingly unobtainable now….. as well as handgaurds But I will be restocking this rifle ASAP I wish the wood it came dressed in was savable
Your mannlicher came in much nicer than mine unfortunately my mannlicher managed to have a miss matching receiver and barrel with 712N being the receiver and 2413C being the barrel
Thorough Break-down on this veteran. Points noted: Use correct size screw drivers to unscrew tight screws...gouging due to incorrect drivers. Besides Kroil, use brass hammer and screw Driver to impact the screw and break any seal from rust/ grease. As you remove screws, small parts, etc, place in a selection of Tobacco Tins, Small Tuna tins, etc, so as to (a) not lose them, ( b) keep them segregated with their relative parts. Cleaning: Bronze Wool and light oil, Brass brushes ( fine). Fine pick where Wool or Brush won't reach. Wood: Powder with Talc, place in Black Garbage bag, leave in Hot sun for several Hours; then wash stock with Laundry Soap and hot water. Dry quickly. Swell dents with Steam shot Iron and wet linen...crushed grain will not expand fully. Oil liberally with LO/BLO, and rub down. Metal: No carding, only cloth buffing...if you really must. I am of two minds on Water Boiling ( Mark Novak method) as it converts Red Rust ( Fe2O3) to Black Rust ( Fe3O4, ) which is effectively " Blue". For historical Accuracy ( Austro-Hungarian Empire, WWI, Italian Reparations, Eritrea colony, Abyssinian War, WWII Italian Defeat, Ethiopian Capture, War against Separatist Eritreans, final Goatshed Storage for 40 years, sale to RTI...). Quite a history. Bare cleaning and needed repairs, end of storyline: no Reblue, no Wirewheel, no Steel wool unless 0000. Oil all, Bore Clean, ( Sweets or Hoppes) Load ammo ( Resize & Trim 8x56R PPU, OR Size and Trim 7,62x54R, Fireform.) Use Flat Based .324" Jacketed Or .327-9" Cast Lead, Flat Base. Rifling works on Base Upset Obturation, Boat Tails won't Work in 8x50R. Doc AV Gunboards.com
Bought my RTI M.95 two years ago. I replaced the stock because it was worn down to nothing and all the metal fittings were proud of the wood. Making the ammunition has been the biggest hurdle.
@TexasCast&Blast just released a video on loading for 8x50r. I'm still playing around with loads, mostly IMR 4227 and 205gr cast bullets, but I plan on following his advice for jacketed
@@rakumprojects I scored the stock on ebay. I had to fabricate the rear half of the handguard as well. Big project but the rifle is unit marked to the 29th FeldJager Battalion, so worth the work I think. It's also the first rifle on which Ive experimented with rust-bluing.
@@rakumprojects I'd be happy to send some pictures. It's not the prettiest and I'm still not done working on it but it's shootable. K.u.K units are a lot harder to nail down than German ones.
I just wanted to give you a wood tip concerning that “hole gouge” in the buttstock. I use a SOLDERING IRON, and a wet FACE CLOTH to “STEAM RISE” the wood fibers to original form as much as possible. By placing the small section of wet cloth into the wood depression, and pressing the tip of the soldering iron onto the wet cloth, the steam created expands the wood fibers und basically “unfolds” the pressed wood back into original form. Let the wood dry for a few hours in the sun or use a hairdryer. Once dry, add a drop or two of Linseed oil to preserve the wood. 😇👍
As for that screw, I have watched a gunsmith go over the head with a mig welder to fill in the gutted slot. He refinished the contours of the head and then recut the groove. Extra work but some of these screws are unobtainable today.
I dig your techniques because theyre simple, effective enough and can be done by the common (especially RTI) milsurp collector with not too much investment.
Before I found your channel, I never heard of boiling parts to convert red rust to a type of bluing. Is that a generally accepted method in restoring old rusty guns?
Plug the end of the barrel and pour in CLR being careful not to get it externally. Leave overnight and then scrub it out. There should be a whole pile of black/brown sludge. You'll be amazed at how well the rifling comes up and you get a shine to the lands if not the grooves.
High quality content. I see you used un distilled water for boiling your parts. People often say to use distilled water. Does it make a difference when you boil it with un distilled water?
0000 steel wool is perfect for removing crud and gak from the surfaces of the metal and the stock. You can also use it to card off loose oxides during bluing. Just make sure you de-grease it thoroughly with acetone and let it dry before use if you are using it to card rust bluing. Being as that you are just cleaning the metal, it should be fine to use as is.
Damn that would suck to need a piece of brass to keep the bolt unlocked. Mine stays unlocked all on its own and they’re a pain to unlock out of the action
Awesome vid, great format and editing and all that. Im sure it was a lot of work just putting the vid together. I think you would love a ultrasonic cleaner for the stuff you did in that pan with the simple green. I love mine, I can toss all those types of parts in it with about 20% simple green and turn the heat and ultrasonic on, then go work on the rest of the rifle and it gets everything off. It gets super hot so greasy grime just melts off as the ultrasonic action breaks it up. Ive had mine for like a decade, trick to making it last long is to siphon the water out. Lots of people dump theirs out which lets solution leak into the body and electronics and kill it. They are so worth the cost in time and effort saved. Those little wire mesh balls for making tea are perfect to hold the small parts in the big pot and be easy to keep track of. The mesh is so small I haven't met a part yet that it doesn't contain. Maybe a very tiny pin could fall thru but none I've used it with yet. I have learned several new tricks from your vids and just found your channel tonight. Good stuff.
@@rakumprojects I have worked in labs for 20 years so I've used many lab grade ultrasonic cleaners, and I have to say the Harbor Freight model has really strong cleaning action. Some units are kind of weak but not that one. Lyman even re-brands and sell the same model. I think you'd be happy with it. It's a little small but will fit most entire pistols and all minor milsurp rifle parts including bolt and trigger guard/ mag housing
With old military barrels. Use never dull polish to help clean the bore. Its cotton like. Rock Solid mounts recommends it. They have a article on their website on how and why.
2:36 looks like 42 LR to me, that'd be 42nd landwehr regiment, which didn't exist to my knowledge. Hard to tell from stills, does it look like a 42 to you?
It could be 42 LR. The 2 and the R are very clear and the 4 I'm pretty sure of. I can't make out an L, or anything really, but there is space for a letter.
@@rakumprojects if it is just 42 R that is very easy to interpret as the 42nd regiment. 42 LR didnt exist so I think 42 R is much more likely if you cant see anything between them.
@@wonderwulf I'll have to do more research. At least with German markings they wouldn't have left space between the 42 and the R unless there was another letter in there. It's very hard to tell since it's so worn down.
@@rakumprojects I have seen some AH stuff where there is a space, I have seen more without but several with. Usually when it's just a single letter following the number.
Thank you for this very informative video! Could an 8x56, be converted to 45-70? Build a different bottom metal, to accommodate the larger round, lengths and rims are close, and the action can handle the pressures, ( within reason) , it would make an all round rifle! A barrel job could be easily handled, with close attention to the fitting. Weve thought about such a conversion for some time, and we'd like to get your thoughts on it.
The bolt face would need to be opened up slightly to accommodate the larger rim of 45-70, but it's possible. Siamese Mausers are popular military rifles to rechamber to 45-70.
My B-grade came in, but too busy with welding jobs to go get it. You might get away with running light bullets in that. They need less to stabilize, than the long 200+gr ones.
@@rakumprojects you'd have to run cast for lighter ones. I think only the heavy ones are jacketed, but you can drill out some of the back end, or shorten it, if it's shot out. Try the bullet swallow test, and it might still have enough. We have opposite luck, lol. My 95's come with sewer pipes while the 88's always fire true still. I run a cast bullet in my worn out ones.
@@rakumprojects picked up my B-grade finally, and well worth it. Some deep pits around 3-4 inches in, but high defined rifling to muzzle. Stock was nice, only having a wrist crack that wasn't deep, and missing front band screw and stacking rod. Couple items from my parts bin, and ready to rock.
@@rakumprojects I might chance another, hoping for even half rifling still good. I've got plenty of parts and stocks for making Stutzen" out of them. I took the "cutdown" 88/90 out today, and it groups about softball size. 8/10 where I wanted them, with first couple being fliers that blasted the rust out.
I’d recommend steaming the stock to remove the dents, also m95 bolt were not blued so you should remove the bluing that formed on the bolt when you boiled it
Bought my mannlicher carbine from them almost 2 years ago now the carbine came dirty as hell per usual from rti. The safety didnt function correctly on the rifle and the bore was a complete sewer pipe no rifling left at all. Unfortunately the retaining pin that keeps the trigger assembly together is extremely loose and the you have to really pull the trigger hard for the gun to dry fire.
Rakum that look petty good for a $200 rifle Replace the sling swivel if you can find one. The boxing was great compared to other places look at some of my unboxings Thats exactly how i clean my surplus stocks, i use DAWN detergent. Thanks for showing. I subed ya too.
I used Dawn too, that's one household product where I believe their advertising. And yeah the packaging wasn't so bad, I've gotten much worse. Thanks for the sub!
Антабку (крепление ремня) стоит поискать на аукционе или изготовить самому. Если много денег нет, то ремень подойдёт от винтовки Мосина, можно тканевый, а если получится найти кожаный от ранних винтовок, то вообще будет смотреться супер.
Royal tiger imports is a scam the “grade” doesn’t mean any thing I bought a m1917 enfield for 1,000$ for the a grade and I was hyped the moment I took it out of the shitty box they sent it to the ffl in my hands were covered in a mixture of muck and rust I tried using the bolt and it was tough when I fired it too 8 seconds for the pin to go all the way I took it to an old gunsmith my brother used the look on the clerk and gunsmith faces when I showed them the fireing mechanism was absolute shock and horror they then told me they have never seen such a horrifically maintained rifle. GOD BLESS them they not only took it all apart and made it look brand spanking new they showed me the broken cartridge extractor that they fixed and it was now perfect. I reported them to the better business bureau and they said AND I QUOTE “ the reason that it was like that is because it’s been sitting in a box for decades.” So if I bought the grade b or c witch was only 600$ it would have been worse. I can’t stress this enough DO NOT BUY FROM THESE SCAMERS THEY GIVE RIFLES AT FULL PRICE THAT ARE NOT EVEN MAINTAINED
Saved another one from death by neglect, Mark Novak would approve your conservation methods. Well done!
A dime is also the perfect size to wedge the bolt head forward. Great looking rife for the price.
Good point, probably a bit easier to get in there than a piece of brass.
Nice video, much better than those other "restoration" videos on the site. I'd say the sling swivel is replacement is up to you, if you do replace it I'd also get the rear sight parts at the same time. It would be odd replace the swivel but not the rear sight slider.
13:52 That little part is the actual sear, that's what engages with the cocking piece and lets it fly when the trigger is pulled. I don't know why Mannlicher made it like that, but it is how it is.
42:34 The sights on the Austrian guns (this includes the 1888/90) are in Schritt. Schritt is an old measurement system, and it's ~.75 of a meter from what I've been told.
Thanks for watching! I think I'll leave the sling swivel as is, I've grown accustomed to it. I'm going to keep an eye out for a sight slider, just so the rear sight doesn't look bare like it does now.
@@rakumprojects Understandable, hopefully it keeps chugging along with no issues. Good luck hunting down a slider and keeper screw (Note: sliders for the carbines are different from the rifles) Also I gotta watch the rest of your vids now, thanks for linking them in the C&Rsenal server
You'd amazed at how easy, quick and effective ultrasonic cleaners are especially for all those small parts.
I just got one. Looking forward to testing it out
A fantastic restoration as per usual keep up the good work
Takto má vyzerať renovácia na úrovni, paráda ;)
This video served as tutorial and inspiration for my first ever mauser restoration. Great content!!
Awesome, good luck with your project!
A well made and well executed video, as always. Always admire someone's attention to detail and I hope the bore isn't a complete loss. Fingers crossed and good luck 🤞 😉
Thank you very much!
Ya lots of detail in the video ..good job.
Hi, just to let you know you can buy right angle screw drivers. Look them up. L shaped screwdrivers that looks like a hex key but with flat ends. Gives you a ton more leverage and does not bend. Helped me a lot in my projects.
This is a real "silk purse from a sow's ear" story. Beautiful work!! Hope the bore cleans up well enough to get at least a few rounds downrange.
I got a mannlicher m95 carbine and I used your video as a reference on what tools and resources to get to clean it up with. It does have one very small crack similar to your rifle but the everything is intact but the cleaning rod. The bore does have plenty of rifling left but the pitting is there.
That's good to hear, I was wondering how the carbines were. I was tempted to order one but I found I prefer long rifles. Maybe one day
@@rakumprojects I bought it along with an enfield mk3 no1. It is a 1916 bsa mk3*
@@tomc6255 Nice, I'm going to be starting work on an SMLE soon
That paint on the stock is driving me nuts. This is a fantastic video though. Very much appreciate seeing your process, it seems well thought out.
Excellent video on an interesting and historic rifle!
Such a well-produced video, and quality work on the clean-up, as well. Not sure I’ve ever seen anyone using that popsicle stick technique before but looks pretty effective and I’ll have to bear it in mind for my own projects.
Thanks! It's mostly for removing the dried on gunk, such as the stuff that's usually found along the wood line. The first few guns I conserved (years ago) I didn't remove it first and it ended up making a huge mess after boiling. I used a whole can of brake cleaner to remove all of it from my carding wheel!
Very good boiling it to convert the rust, your on the right track. You need to boil everything and avoid scraping off rust it will create white spots. Boil the whole action then follow through with bore cleaning and carding, you may have to boil or steam several times to convert everything. Mark Novak's channel explains the process. I have been doing it for years and brought back quite a few nice pieces.
Would like to see you get replacement parts and get this beauty to originalish condition. Love the channel. Great work, as always.
Excellent restoration and video!
Very nice work, my B grade turned out pretty nicely took it shooting too
It did, I've been following along. I plan on working off of your loading video
@@rakumprojects awesome hope it gets good results
@@rakumprojects I also for got to mention, shooting FMJs through it really helps knock all the left over hard junk out, I found this working on my 88/90s and 88/95
@@texascastblast5011 That's a good point, hopefully I can find some at the gun show this weekend
@@rakumprojects if you don’t find it there, Graf&Sons has has it .330 FMJ
The first thing i bought from RTI was one of these. ITs in very nice condition with a really nice bore. The stock looks fantastic actually i was very surprised. Hardly even a knick on it. AOI marked too. cant read the Mil acceptance date but it looks like WW1 era. It wasnt wire wheeled because the bands were completely covered in light rust. no unit marking but my 88/90 does and it looks like it served on the eastern front during WW1. The 88-90 was great too. the bore leaves a lil to be desired but i think it will shoot good with flat based bullets. All the 88-90s have worn out barrels from what ive heard.
Sounds like you got two nice ones. Yes, I don't think I've heard anyone say their 88/90 has a decent bore.
Stumbled across this, great video
🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥 I have my fingers crossed for your bore 🤞As always great content 👍
Finally got mine from RTI…. For $150
I got lucky and all of the metal is present except for the sight slider
(I expected that too be the missing)
But mine has about 75% of the bluing left…. A very nice bore for what it is…
Strong rifling….
Action isn’t necessarily smooth but it’s fast …..
Down side is the stock it’s all there with no cracks… but it was a later Elm wood stock ….. and it’s shrunk and looks and feels like a cheese grater
I have a handguard with no cracks… well 2 handguards technically because it’s cut right under the rear band
So I’m sure they are prices from 2 separate handguards done as a field repair in Ethiopia most likely…
The sight sliders are seemingly unobtainable now….. as well as handgaurds
But I will be restocking this rifle ASAP
I wish the wood it came dressed in was savable
Your mannlicher came in much nicer than mine unfortunately my mannlicher managed to have a miss matching receiver and barrel with 712N being the receiver and 2413C being the barrel
VERY well done! Subscribed.
Thorough Break-down on this veteran.
Points noted: Use correct size screw drivers to unscrew tight screws...gouging due to incorrect drivers.
Besides Kroil, use brass hammer and screw Driver to impact the screw and break any seal from rust/ grease.
As you remove screws, small parts, etc, place in a selection of Tobacco Tins, Small Tuna tins, etc, so as to (a) not lose them, ( b) keep them segregated with their relative parts.
Cleaning: Bronze Wool and light oil, Brass brushes ( fine). Fine pick where Wool or Brush won't reach.
Wood: Powder with Talc, place in Black Garbage bag, leave in Hot sun for several
Hours; then wash stock with Laundry Soap and hot water. Dry quickly.
Swell dents with Steam shot Iron and wet linen...crushed grain will not expand fully. Oil liberally with LO/BLO, and rub down.
Metal:
No carding, only cloth buffing...if you really must.
I am of two minds on Water Boiling ( Mark Novak method) as it converts Red Rust ( Fe2O3) to Black Rust ( Fe3O4, ) which is effectively " Blue".
For historical Accuracy ( Austro-Hungarian Empire, WWI, Italian Reparations, Eritrea colony, Abyssinian War, WWII Italian Defeat, Ethiopian Capture, War against Separatist Eritreans, final Goatshed Storage for 40 years, sale to RTI...). Quite a history. Bare cleaning and needed repairs, end of storyline: no Reblue, no Wirewheel, no Steel wool unless 0000.
Oil all, Bore Clean, ( Sweets or Hoppes)
Load ammo ( Resize & Trim 8x56R PPU, OR Size and Trim 7,62x54R, Fireform.)
Use Flat Based .324" Jacketed
Or .327-9" Cast Lead, Flat Base.
Rifling works on Base Upset Obturation, Boat Tails won't Work in 8x50R.
Doc AV Gunboards.com
Lots of good info in here, thanks! 👍
Bought my RTI M.95 two years ago. I replaced the stock because it was worn down to nothing and all the metal fittings were proud of the wood. Making the ammunition has been the biggest hurdle.
Did you get the stock from Numrich (Gun Parts Corp)? I noticed they had stocks for under $30, which is incredibly cheap for a full stock.
@TexasCast&Blast just released a video on loading for 8x50r. I'm still playing around with loads, mostly IMR 4227 and 205gr cast bullets, but I plan on following his advice for jacketed
@@rakumprojects I scored the stock on ebay. I had to fabricate the rear half of the handguard as well. Big project but the rifle is unit marked to the 29th FeldJager Battalion, so worth the work I think. It's also the first rifle on which Ive experimented with rust-bluing.
@@blakek4750 Sounds interesting, would like to see it! I need to research the unit marking on mine, maybe I can trace it to see what it is
@@rakumprojects I'd be happy to send some pictures. It's not the prettiest and I'm still not done working on it but it's shootable. K.u.K units are a lot harder to nail down than German ones.
Great job!regards from England.
I just wanted to give you a wood tip concerning that “hole gouge” in the buttstock. I use a SOLDERING IRON, and a wet FACE CLOTH to “STEAM RISE” the wood fibers to original form as much as possible. By placing the small section of wet cloth into the wood depression, and pressing the tip of the soldering iron onto the wet cloth, the steam created expands the wood fibers und basically “unfolds” the pressed wood back into original form. Let the wood dry for a few hours in the sun or use a hairdryer. Once dry, add a drop or two of Linseed oil to preserve the wood. 😇👍
As for that screw, I have watched a gunsmith go over the head with a mig welder to fill in the gutted slot. He refinished the contours of the head and then recut the groove. Extra work but some of these screws are unobtainable today.
I dig your techniques because theyre simple, effective enough and can be done by the common (especially RTI) milsurp collector with not too much investment.
Before I found your channel, I never heard of boiling parts to convert red rust to a type of bluing. Is that a generally accepted method in restoring old rusty guns?
Yes, it's pretty common for milsurp guns. It works especially well because it's essentially the same method used to apply bluing in the first place.
Plug the end of the barrel and pour in CLR being careful not to get it externally. Leave overnight and then scrub it out. There should be a whole pile of black/brown sludge. You'll be amazed at how well the rifling comes up and you get a shine to the lands if not the grooves.
High quality content. I see you used un distilled water for boiling your parts. People often say to use distilled water. Does it make a difference when you boil it with un distilled water?
I've tried it before and didn't notice any difference. But then again my tap water is good quality, maybe use distilled if yours is too hard
Great video! 👍
Unknown part you pulled from the 'sear' is the actual sear.
0000 steel wool is perfect for removing crud and gak from the surfaces of the metal and the stock. You can also use it to card off loose oxides during bluing. Just make sure you de-grease it thoroughly with acetone and let it dry before use if you are using it to card rust bluing. Being as that you are just cleaning the metal, it should be fine to use as is.
Damn that would suck to need a piece of brass to keep the bolt unlocked. Mine stays unlocked all on its own and they’re a pain to unlock out of the action
Yours must not have a lot of wear on it
Awesome vid, great format and editing and all that. Im sure it was a lot of work just putting the vid together.
I think you would love a ultrasonic cleaner for the stuff you did in that pan with the simple green. I love mine, I can toss all those types of parts in it with about 20% simple green and turn the heat and ultrasonic on, then go work on the rest of the rifle and it gets everything off. It gets super hot so greasy grime just melts off as the ultrasonic action breaks it up. Ive had mine for like a decade, trick to making it last long is to siphon the water out. Lots of people dump theirs out which lets solution leak into the body and electronics and kill it. They are so worth the cost in time and effort saved.
Those little wire mesh balls for making tea are perfect to hold the small parts in the big pot and be easy to keep track of. The mesh is so small I haven't met a part yet that it doesn't contain. Maybe a very tiny pin could fall thru but none I've used it with yet.
I have learned several new tricks from your vids and just found your channel tonight. Good stuff.
I've been meaning to pick one up. With more rusty guns to restore I'm sure I'll get enough use out of it!
@@rakumprojects I have worked in labs for 20 years so I've used many lab grade ultrasonic cleaners, and I have to say the Harbor Freight model has really strong cleaning action. Some units are kind of weak but not that one. Lyman even re-brands and sell the same model. I think you'd be happy with it. It's a little small but will fit most entire pistols and all minor milsurp rifle parts including bolt and trigger guard/ mag housing
@@Toolness1 The 2.5L version right?
@@rakumprojects Yeah that's the one I have. I see they have a 6L now but I haven't used it.
@@rakumprojects One of those 20 gallon parts washers would be really handy if I had a good spot to put it!
Good video, but probably should get of make a set of Hollow ground screwdrivers, Helps a lot to avoid and minimize mangling of the flatheads
I just got a set of PB Swiss slotted screwdrivers in the mail 👍
@@rakumprojects good deal!
Would it be possible to ream out the chambers on these 8x50 guns to 8x56?
Yes, if you can get a good chamber reamer it should work
great info sir
Nice looking rifle
With old military barrels. Use never dull polish to help clean the bore. Its cotton like. Rock Solid mounts recommends it. They have a article on their website on how and why.
Awesome video. Clean the bore from the breach not the muzzle👍
Thank You I was saying "WTF" to myself when I saw him running the brush through the muzzle end first
Did they have a special tool to get the bolt head in? Seems odd it is so difficult.
I noticed it was easier to get the bolt head in position after I cleaned everything up. I think it's much better on ones in better condition
2:36 looks like 42 LR to me, that'd be 42nd landwehr regiment, which didn't exist to my knowledge. Hard to tell from stills, does it look like a 42 to you?
It could be 42 LR. The 2 and the R are very clear and the 4 I'm pretty sure of. I can't make out an L, or anything really, but there is space for a letter.
@@rakumprojects if it is just 42 R that is very easy to interpret as the 42nd regiment. 42 LR didnt exist so I think 42 R is much more likely if you cant see anything between them.
@@wonderwulf I'll have to do more research. At least with German markings they wouldn't have left space between the 42 and the R unless there was another letter in there. It's very hard to tell since it's so worn down.
@@rakumprojects I have seen some AH stuff where there is a space, I have seen more without but several with. Usually when it's just a single letter following the number.
@@wonderwulf Good info, thanks! I'm always curious what the unit markings mean
Great work. Where do you get your carbine wheels from?
Thank you for this very informative video!
Could an 8x56, be converted to 45-70?
Build a different bottom metal, to accommodate the larger round, lengths and rims are close, and the action can handle the pressures, ( within reason) , it would make an all round rifle!
A barrel job could be easily handled, with close attention to the fitting.
Weve thought about such a conversion for some time, and we'd like to get your thoughts on it.
The bolt face would need to be opened up slightly to accommodate the larger rim of 45-70, but it's possible. Siamese Mausers are popular military rifles to rechamber to 45-70.
My B-grade came in, but too busy with welding jobs to go get it. You might get away with running light bullets in that. They need less to stabilize, than the long 200+gr ones.
Any suggestions? I wanted to try jacketed bullets but most are over 200gr
@@rakumprojects you'd have to run cast for lighter ones. I think only the heavy ones are jacketed, but you can drill out some of the back end, or shorten it, if it's shot out. Try the bullet swallow test, and it might still have enough. We have opposite luck, lol. My 95's come with sewer pipes while the 88's always fire true still. I run a cast bullet in my worn out ones.
@@rakumprojects picked up my B-grade finally, and well worth it. Some deep pits around 3-4 inches in, but high defined rifling to muzzle. Stock was nice, only having a wrist crack that wasn't deep, and missing front band screw and stacking rod. Couple items from my parts bin, and ready to rock.
@@charlene2400 From what I'm hearing, this batch of B grade M95's are better overall than the 88/90's
@@rakumprojects I might chance another, hoping for even half rifling still good. I've got plenty of parts and stocks for making Stutzen" out of them. I took the "cutdown" 88/90 out today, and it groups about softball size. 8/10 where I wanted them, with first couple being fliers that blasted the rust out.
I’d recommend steaming the stock to remove the dents, also m95 bolt were not blued so you should remove the bluing that formed on the bolt when you boiled it
Thats better then what I got from them and it wasn't a b grade
That one seems like it should weigh less once you're done cleaning it.
Dirty shame about the bore. Good job on the refurb.
Well done
Can 0000 steal wool be used in place of the wheel?
Yes, it will have the same effect. Later on I use 0000 steel wool to reach the places the wheel couldn't get to
Very interesting. I tend to just start throwing all kinds of chemicals and brass brushes on it,
What are the odds anyone will ever make replacement barrels for these rifles?
Why are royal tiger imports so expensive?
Bought my mannlicher carbine from them almost 2 years ago now the carbine came dirty as hell per usual from rti. The safety didnt function correctly on the rifle and the bore was a complete sewer pipe no rifling left at all. Unfortunately the retaining pin that keeps the trigger assembly together is extremely loose and the you have to really pull the trigger hard for the gun to dry fire.
That's odd about the trigger. Could it be gunk inside the sear assembly? The trigger itself is pretty loose on these rifles, or at least it should be.
@@rakumprojects cleaned the sear assembly I think the parts just might be worn down
@@ryanharrell8866 Not surprising for an RTI gun
Если не найти новый болт, то шляпку можно обварить сварочным полуавтоматом, обточить лишнее напильником, сделать новый шлиц и сделать воронение
A great idea!
Rakum that look petty good for a $200 rifle Replace the sling swivel if you can find one. The boxing was great compared to other places look at some of my unboxings Thats exactly how i clean my surplus stocks, i use DAWN detergent. Thanks for showing. I subed ya too.
I used Dawn too, that's one household product where I believe their advertising. And yeah the packaging wasn't so bad, I've gotten much worse. Thanks for the sub!
@@rakumprojects DAWN cuts the grease then decide if you need to do more ..like some bleach.
Man! That was one FILTHY gun!
You need to buy yourself some screwdrivers with wider heads for Xmas. 🙂
You should use distilled water when boiling
where do you find 8x50r ammo i cant find any
I reload my own. A new company, Casto's Curios makes it in small batches.
Антабку (крепление ремня) стоит поискать на аукционе или изготовить самому. Если много денег нет, то ремень подойдёт от винтовки Мосина, можно тканевый, а если получится найти кожаный от ранних винтовок, то вообще будет смотреться супер.
Для кислоты идеально подходит пластиковая канализационная труба с заглушкой
For my taste, it needs to remove the paint from the wood, number 16, and the wire from the strap holder
I have one or a 8.56r
Next time you remove the bolt put a dime between bolt and bolt body.
Mark
Novak would be proud.
Вот я не понимаю, почему нельзя было всё ободрать железной щёткой, а потом по чистому железу сделать новое воронение?
I could have completely refinished it, but I wanted to keep the original patina
Another $50.00 wall hanger from Rotten Tiger Imports! Good job cleaning it up.
Def guna sub
Wash your hands!
Royal tiger imports is a scam the “grade” doesn’t mean any thing I bought a m1917 enfield for 1,000$ for the a grade and I was hyped the moment I took it out of the shitty box they sent it to the ffl in my hands were covered in a mixture of muck and rust I tried using the bolt and it was tough when I fired it too 8 seconds for the pin to go all the way I took it to an old gunsmith my brother used the look on the clerk and gunsmith faces when I showed them the fireing mechanism was absolute shock and horror they then told me they have never seen such a horrifically maintained rifle. GOD BLESS them they not only took it all apart and made it look brand spanking new they showed me the broken cartridge extractor that they fixed and it was now perfect. I reported them to the better business bureau and they said AND I QUOTE “ the reason that it was like that is because it’s been sitting in a box for decades.” So if I bought the grade b or c witch was only 600$ it would have been worse. I can’t stress this enough DO NOT BUY FROM THESE SCAMERS THEY GIVE RIFLES AT FULL PRICE THAT ARE NOT EVEN MAINTAINED
That's terrible. 1k is pretty much retail price for one in good condition. The CMP just announced theyre selling some for not much more than that
All those rifles were probably confiscated from one of the many tribal miltias of Ethiopia. Maybe it was maintained and stored by desert goat herders.