You need to rest the tray on the rack for the toaster over and walk slowly with it to keep them from falling over. Straighten a few up, but they work great for smaller caliber rifle bullets up to 30 caliber at least.
Hey Rob. I started as you do, one by one, I found the plyers sometimes also do spots whiteout paint. So I try surgical gloves and that did it. I use silicone mats for the tray, same one for 10 years. I started as a cheap way to get rifle bullets, since I'm in south America, and rifle bullets here are 150-175 US Dollars the box of 100. Then I try for 9mm since I was doing IPSC. I was using cast lee's .356 125 grains (I took the Grease lube out with a Dremel for easier release) with Lee alox. Less or no smoke and barrel clean as no fired after a training session of 200-250. So I came up with the method now. pre heat bullets, at 50 Celsius, tumbler for 10 min, I have a fine mesh kitchen straw, like 10 inches diameter, shake the excess, yo the tray and 10 min at 200 Celsius. yes, a few will get glue together, and some will have spot. For handgun I don't care, it is hard enough anyway. For rifle I do 2 coats, chances or getting a spot in the same place is almost 0. Great video keep it up!!!! Greetings from the south!!
I have little pans like yours but with shorter sides. I have silicone in the bottom of the trays. Have been using the same silicone for over 5 years. I load at least 3000 45 ACP a year and many others. I do basically what you do. I have a long set of forceps' and I just pick up each bullet and sit on the silicone. for 30 Cal bullets I use the same silicone grid as you but I still set it in the pans before I put my bullets in. Its a slow walk to the toaster oven! Very nice video, thank you!
Head over to cast boolits forum. I use clear powder coating for my rifle bullets. Completely smooth and even coating even when tumble coating. I also stand all my cast bullets up with a needle nose. Lunch them in a separate container after the initial tumbling then stand them up. Clear and as smooth as glass. I get sub MOA with several calibers at 100 yards. My 336 , 35 Remington will all shoot in the same hole. I stand mine up on cheap Walmart wire racks. Silicone mats the powder coating pools at the bottom and makes collar around the bullet bases. I gas check my rifle bullets so the rack rash makes zero difference. I also sort within one grain of each other.
I have not got clear yet and I am a member on cast boolets. I got some purple eastwood I wanted to use on this and it would not coat just like it was too humid. Wonder if they packaged it too humid?
@@RobGoebel I would assume so. The easiest powder coating I’ve found so far is Smoke’s clear. I have had to shake just an out all the colors accept for traffic blue like a mad man to get an even coat. I couple swirls with clear and it’s perfectly coated. The color flakes are what makes them look unevenly coated but there is clear mixed in with colors usually so the boolits are coated but don’t look pretty. I’ve mixed a bunch of colors together. Boolits get evenly covered for some reason with mixes for me.
I found that for pistol quality doesnt really matter. Even when they look garbage as long as its one piece and the base is good its all that matters. Mine are always full of little creases and the tip of the hollow point usually doesnt look good but they dont keyhole and will shoot the same. I dont add tin or antimony either its too expensive to add those and achieve the same result as using range scraps as it is
I take a piece of plywood a little larger than the pan I’m going to bake my bullets in. I then lay empty bullet trays in the pan I’m going to be baking in and arrange them to get the maximum amount of trays in the pan (The trays the solid squared off plastic ones that factory bullets come packed in when you buy a box of bullets. Very similar to the silicone one in your video, but only 50 squares for fifty rounds.). I even cut a few to make to most possible fit in the metal pan. Once I’ve figured out the arrangement of the plastic trays, I lay them out that same way on my piece of plywood. After powder coating my cast bullets, I place them with the nose/point facing down in the trays, with the base facing up. Once every square is full, I slip my upside down metal cooking pan over all of the trays (I use a silicone cooking mat in my tray). I then simply grasp the plywood and the metal cooking pan, firmly squeezing them together, and flip the entire set up right side up. I slip the plastic trays off of the cast bullets and all of them are evenly spaced, and standing upright like good little solders.
Must be flat noses bullets as I couldn't stand spire point rifle rounds like that. Maybe HP's like this video. I try to minimize contact as some that touch the side of the trays get culled unless the sizer mashes it down. You about need your own video to explain all that you just wrote. :)
@@RobGoebel Yes, I figured it would be slightly more difficult to understand reading it when I could show you in 25 seconds. LOL. But, I haven’t ventured into making videos, just binge watching them.
Amen "Don't do" in wife's oven! the few bucks for an electric shop oven is worth PEACE and a happy wife. I did some granite countertop waste and tiles arranged properly in my shop oven to heat soak and help with hot or cold spots, just pre heat longer.
Thanks Rob. I do the same thing with my Freedom Seeds. I agree, they have to look as good as they shoot. Kind of an anal thing I guess that comes with age and doing machine work for so many years. Running them thru a Lee sizing die puts a finishing touch on them which guarantees a proper outer dimension. Keep up the good work...
My wife buys from Maryland my Maryland shirts to clean me up for going out. Are you a Maryland Shooters guy? I keep suggesting moving across the river into Free America, but she's not into it right now.
Nice Video Rob! ..Long time caster and reloader of multiple calibers and im just now researching powder coating bullets and your way looks to be the best way..any thoughts on silicon baking sheets?
guys say they are good, but parchment paper is easy, cheap and disposable! Use the same piece several time sin one day and in the trash or fire pit. Humidity under 40% for dry shake and bake or use the wet method with acetone.
Out of curiosity, what sort of performance are the lead powder coated bullets for expansion, fragmenting and retention of total wiehgt are they to the standard copper jacketed hollow points? I have been casting and powder coating bullets for quite a while now, with great sucess and considering the purchase of a hollow point mold, but holding off due to it's expense compared to when the Lee molds were available. Anybody have prior experience of test in gell results? Thanks for the interesting, intriguing video.
Watch this video and skip to 4:00 to see expansion of the 7 - 8 bhn bullets. They expand great and fly good. Pure lead expands better but of course after 10 yards. Wheel weights shoots great, but don't expand the best. ruclips.net/video/SW1kIIeCBpU/видео.html
This was testing the pure lead and wheel weights. Jump to 6:00 to see expansion testing for lead and WW hollow point and Round nose that doesn't expand at all!! ruclips.net/video/jRrNTzfwmAo/видео.html
Thanks again for the splendid info and detailed results for coating on paper of in the tray. I had terrible luck with parchment paper sticking to the bottom of bullets, as did my aluminum foil. I graduated to a Silicone Cookie Sheet, cut to fit my oven pan, stand up with needle nose and have great results. After deciding I'm in a bit more of a hurry for standing the bullets, I stood them in Silicone Gummy Trays pruchased on Amazon. They can't tip and come out 100%, like yours. After casting and coating bullets, I would not return to use of my prior X-Treme or Berry's copper bullets. I chronograph nearly every initial loading and compare to my multiple manuals. I find that the coated bullets with identical powder charge, overal length, primers and case are an average of 28fps-65fps faster than the jacketed, with less recoil. This allows me to back off on my powder charge about 1gr-3gr to acheive the identical load and velocity as the copper jacketed loads. This to me is proof of less friction, meaning my barrels will last longer. Upon cleaning the weapons after firing seasions, I find only carbon deposits from the powder. Against the will of others, I use my 5 lb can of IMR 700X powder for all .380/38 spcl./9mm/44 mag/ 45acp target loads, with assorted bullet weights. Cases are very clean, pistol has very small amount of deposits. My 9mm-124g4-130gr with 3.7gr-3.8gr run about 1168 fps, the 38 spcls with 160 gr @ 895 fps, 45 acp with 4.8gr, 200-225gr bullets @ 850-885fps. For me, thesee cast/coated bullets far surpass the accuracy of my jacketed ones. I also find Eastwood and Sherwin Williams powders to be my best for a single coat, although variations between certain colors compared to the Ford Light Blue, and mix with Sherwin Williams Red for purple on 9mms.
Thanks Rob. I belive, by experience with Glock that if you choose to replace that octaganol barrel with a Lone Wolf your grouping and possibly expansion results will change radically. A friend and range partnet of mine has many different calibers in Glock, allowing us to have shot paper, water jugs and chronographed the comparisons between the factory octagonal barrel and Lone Wolf units. Shooting lead from a OEM Glock barrel could have you developing a complex, if not changed-LOL. The sole modls for H/P bulllet casting today are quite pricey, compared to all of my Lee modl collection, making me curious if it warrants the spending of my retired person budget. I will take quality over quantity any day, all the time. Your videos are appreciated.
For the best quality you need to use a spray gun. Tumbling will never be perfect, but those wire racks are trash. For quick bulk bullets without those blotches I use Non-stick aluminum foil. I throw a bunch on there then the instant I pull them out, I toss them all in water to flash cool. I get no bare spots or high spots. They aren't pretty but the coating is as good as you can get for tumbling.
This works great for me and I am not bothering with a spray gun. Yes it might be better, but this way is just fine, quality wise. I never great success with non stick aluminum foil and always have had powder coat stick to it, but nothing sticks to parchment paper.
I got my first warning for teaching people how to 'make ammunition" for posting a video on common casting problems with lines in bullets and such. I think I am going to stop using YT and post on rumble. I don't make money her, yet I earn them money and the latter will stop going forward. This might even get removed. You can find me as archeryrob on Rumble. I am not tip toeing around their rules. I am a tinkerer and make things and will violate this over and over again. Best to get out before I waste more time here.
Thanks for the video. I'm just getting into molding my own bullets, starting with .45 Auto with the MP 452-374 HP, plain base, 4 cavity BR mold. I'm going to be making a lot of hollow points. I picked up a Wal-Mart brand Toaster oven, some #5 plastic containers, and ordered a couple of different Eastwood Powder coats. I noticed you didn't do any damage to your bullets when you loaded them into the cases. I'm going to use a sizing kit if I have any problems with the size of the bullets after molding and powder coating them. Have you sized any of your powder coated bullets? Does sizing do any damage to the powder coat? I also watched a video where this guy explained why powder coated bullets don't need a gas check, which I thought was a pretty good video and I agree with the guy's reasoning. I'm somewhat of a perfectionist myself, which is why I've been watching powder coating videos. I saw one where the guy just threw all his bullets on a tray and stuck them into the oven without separating them at all. The end result looked like crap but he was fine with it. They probably worked fine but that's just not how I want mine to look. I take pride in what I do and I'd hate to show a bullet to someone and say "here's a bullet I molded and powder coated" and have them look at me like I'm holding a turd in my hand.
Wow, one question at a time! What every you read about shake and bake, powder coating remember under40% humidity to get it to stick! I've read a lot of BS online and found this to be true. The one die that sizes the case and knocks out the primer expands the case so it can handle having the bullet inserted. It should flair the mouth enough for cast bullets. If not, you can get the Lee universal expanding die to do it.
I size everything. I cast the 9mm hollow points at .359 and then powder coat them making them thicker. Then size them to .356 with the lee sizer. The only trouble I had sizing was not shaking off bullets and double coating them before doing the stand up method. The coat was too thick and sizing tore up the sides. Yes, this video was in response to the "throwing them on the tray" style. I find they work, they just look like She-I-it and nothing I want attached to my work.
![Twenty One Pilots - “The Line” (from Arcane Season 2) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/E2Rj2gQAyPA/mqdefault.jpg)
Only 218 subscribers and yet you took the time to edit and give me an Amazon link to those awesome trays. You rock. Thanks
You need to rest the tray on the rack for the toaster over and walk slowly with it to keep them from falling over. Straighten a few up, but they work great for smaller caliber rifle bullets up to 30 caliber at least.
Hey Rob. I started as you do, one by one, I found the plyers sometimes also do spots whiteout paint. So I try surgical gloves and that did it. I use silicone mats for the tray, same one for 10 years. I started as a cheap way to get rifle bullets, since I'm in south America, and rifle bullets here are 150-175 US Dollars the box of 100. Then I try for 9mm since I was doing IPSC. I was using cast lee's .356 125 grains (I took the Grease lube out with a Dremel for easier release) with Lee alox. Less or no smoke and barrel clean as no fired after a training session of 200-250. So I came up with the method now. pre heat bullets, at 50 Celsius, tumbler for 10 min, I have a fine mesh kitchen straw, like 10 inches diameter, shake the excess, yo the tray and 10 min at 200 Celsius. yes, a few will get glue together, and some will have spot. For handgun I don't care, it is hard enough anyway. For rifle I do 2 coats, chances or getting a spot in the same place is almost 0. Great video keep it up!!!! Greetings from the south!!
I have little pans like yours but with shorter sides. I have silicone in the bottom of the trays. Have been using the same silicone for over 5 years. I load at least 3000 45 ACP a year and many others. I do basically what you do. I have a long set of forceps' and I just pick up each bullet and sit on the silicone. for 30 Cal bullets I use the same silicone grid as you but I still set it in the pans before I put my bullets in. Its a slow walk to the toaster oven!
Very nice video, thank you!
Head over to cast boolits forum. I use clear powder coating for my rifle bullets. Completely smooth and even coating even when tumble coating. I also stand all my cast bullets up with a needle nose. Lunch them in a separate container after the initial tumbling then stand them up. Clear and as smooth as glass. I get sub MOA with several calibers at 100 yards. My 336 , 35 Remington will all shoot in the same hole. I stand mine up on cheap Walmart wire racks. Silicone mats the powder coating pools at the bottom and makes collar around the bullet bases. I gas check my rifle bullets so the rack rash makes zero difference. I also sort within one grain of each other.
I have not got clear yet and I am a member on cast boolets. I got some purple eastwood I wanted to use on this and it would not coat just like it was too humid. Wonder if they packaged it too humid?
@@RobGoebel I would assume so. The easiest powder coating I’ve found so far is Smoke’s clear. I have had to shake just an out all the colors accept for traffic blue like a mad man to get an even coat. I couple swirls with clear and it’s perfectly coated. The color flakes are what makes them look unevenly coated but there is clear mixed in with colors usually so the boolits are coated but don’t look pretty. I’ve mixed a bunch of colors together. Boolits get evenly covered for some reason with mixes for me.
I found that for pistol quality doesnt really matter. Even when they look garbage as long as its one piece and the base is good its all that matters. Mine are always full of little creases and the tip of the hollow point usually doesnt look good but they dont keyhole and will shoot the same. I dont add tin or antimony either its too expensive to add those and achieve the same result as using range scraps as it is
I take a piece of plywood a little larger than the pan I’m going to bake my bullets in. I then lay empty bullet trays in the pan I’m going to be baking in and arrange them to get the maximum amount of trays in the pan (The trays the solid squared off plastic ones that factory bullets come packed in when you buy a box of bullets. Very similar to the silicone one in your video, but only 50 squares for fifty rounds.). I even cut a few to make to most possible fit in the metal pan. Once I’ve figured out the arrangement of the plastic trays, I lay them out that same way on my piece of plywood. After powder coating my cast bullets, I place them with the nose/point facing down in the trays, with the base facing up. Once every square is full, I slip my upside down metal cooking pan over all of the trays (I use a silicone cooking mat in my tray). I then simply grasp the plywood and the metal cooking pan, firmly squeezing them together, and flip the entire set up right side up. I slip the plastic trays off of the cast bullets and all of them are evenly spaced, and standing upright like good little solders.
Must be flat noses bullets as I couldn't stand spire point rifle rounds like that. Maybe HP's like this video. I try to minimize contact as some that touch the side of the trays get culled unless the sizer mashes it down. You about need your own video to explain all that you just wrote. :)
@@RobGoebel Yes, I figured it would be slightly more difficult to understand reading it when I could show you in 25 seconds. LOL. But, I haven’t ventured into making videos, just binge watching them.
Amen "Don't do" in wife's oven! the few bucks for an electric shop oven is worth PEACE and a happy wife. I did some granite countertop waste and tiles arranged properly in my shop oven to heat soak and help with hot or cold spots, just pre heat longer.
You'll be reminded of that mistake for ten years or more. The things I've done that seemed simple enough, but made one hell of a mess in the house.
Most places that would be tweezers its crazy how we get so picky about some things when we get old especialy when it's a mental thing not cronalogical
Yes, they are tweezers. Just the wrong word rattling in my head while thinking of other things. 😀
Thanks Rob. I do the same thing with my Freedom Seeds. I agree, they have to look as good as they shoot. Kind of an anal thing I guess that comes with age and doing machine work for so many years. Running them thru a Lee sizing die puts a finishing touch on them which guarantees a proper outer dimension. Keep up the good work...
Love the shirt, sir!
My wife buys from Maryland my Maryland shirts to clean me up for going out. Are you a Maryland Shooters guy? I keep suggesting moving across the river into Free America, but she's not into it right now.
@@RobGoebel I am not, but I love the song! By “over the river,” I hope you mean WV, not VA. The commonwealth, like MD, has fallen from her proud past!
@@j.p.saverance8972 I do, Northern VA is destroying all of VA.
I have done that but I put them tip down, I want a clean powder coat on the base.
Can size tip down for he same effect.
Nice Video Rob! ..Long time caster and reloader of multiple calibers and im just now researching powder coating bullets and your way looks to be the best way..any thoughts on silicon baking sheets?
guys say they are good, but parchment paper is easy, cheap and disposable! Use the same piece several time sin one day and in the trash or fire pit. Humidity under 40% for dry shake and bake or use the wet method with acetone.
I do the same thing you do, what hollow point mold are you using?
MP Molds www.mp-molds.com/product/9mm-38-147-154-bevel-basehollow-point-no-lube-groove-multi-choice/
Do you worry about the mil thickness of the powder coating? I would be a little paranoid.
No, because bullets are cast at .359 and too think already, then powder coated and then sized down to .356 to be loaded.
Out of curiosity, what sort of performance are the lead powder coated bullets for expansion, fragmenting and retention of total wiehgt are they to the standard copper jacketed hollow points? I have been casting and powder coating bullets for quite a while now, with great sucess and considering the purchase of a hollow point mold, but holding off due to it's expense compared to when the Lee molds were available. Anybody have prior experience of test in gell results? Thanks for the interesting, intriguing video.
Watch this video and skip to 4:00 to see expansion of the 7 - 8 bhn bullets. They expand great and fly good. Pure lead expands better but of course after 10 yards. Wheel weights shoots great, but don't expand the best. ruclips.net/video/SW1kIIeCBpU/видео.html
This was testing the pure lead and wheel weights. Jump to 6:00 to see expansion testing for lead and WW hollow point and Round nose that doesn't expand at all!! ruclips.net/video/jRrNTzfwmAo/видео.html
@@RobGoebel Many Thanks
Thanks again for the splendid info and detailed results for coating on paper of in the tray. I had terrible luck with parchment paper sticking to the bottom of bullets, as did my aluminum foil. I graduated to a Silicone Cookie Sheet, cut to fit my oven pan, stand up with needle nose and have great results. After deciding I'm in a bit more of a hurry for standing the bullets, I stood them in Silicone Gummy Trays pruchased on Amazon. They can't tip and come out 100%, like yours. After casting and coating bullets, I would not return to use of my prior X-Treme or Berry's copper bullets. I chronograph nearly every initial loading and compare to my multiple manuals. I find that the coated bullets with identical powder charge, overal length, primers and case are an average of 28fps-65fps faster than the jacketed, with less recoil. This allows me to back off on my powder charge about 1gr-3gr to acheive the identical load and velocity as the copper jacketed loads. This to me is proof of less friction, meaning my barrels will last longer. Upon cleaning the weapons after firing seasions, I find only carbon deposits from the powder. Against the will of others, I use my 5 lb can of IMR 700X powder for all .380/38 spcl./9mm/44 mag/ 45acp target loads, with assorted bullet weights. Cases are very clean, pistol has very small amount of deposits. My 9mm-124g4-130gr with 3.7gr-3.8gr run about 1168 fps, the 38 spcls with 160 gr @ 895 fps, 45 acp with 4.8gr, 200-225gr bullets @ 850-885fps. For me, thesee cast/coated bullets far surpass the accuracy of my jacketed ones. I also find Eastwood and Sherwin Williams powders to be my best for a single coat, although variations between certain colors compared to the Ford Light Blue, and mix with Sherwin Williams Red for purple on 9mms.
Thanks Rob. I belive, by experience with Glock that if you choose to replace that octaganol barrel with a Lone Wolf your grouping and possibly expansion results will change radically. A friend and range partnet of mine has many different calibers in Glock, allowing us to have shot paper, water jugs and chronographed the comparisons between the factory octagonal barrel and Lone Wolf units. Shooting lead from a OEM Glock barrel could have you developing a complex, if not changed-LOL. The sole modls for H/P bulllet casting today are quite pricey, compared to all of my Lee modl collection, making me curious if it warrants the spending of my retired person budget. I will take quality over quantity any day, all the time. Your videos are appreciated.
For the best quality you need to use a spray gun. Tumbling will never be perfect, but those wire racks are trash. For quick bulk bullets without those blotches I use Non-stick aluminum foil. I throw a bunch on there then the instant I pull them out, I toss them all in water to flash cool. I get no bare spots or high spots. They aren't pretty but the coating is as good as you can get for tumbling.
This works great for me and I am not bothering with a spray gun. Yes it might be better, but this way is just fine, quality wise. I never great success with non stick aluminum foil and always have had powder coat stick to it, but nothing sticks to parchment paper.
Help bullet key chain caliber 9mm MR.
I will not run any powder coated bullets through my barrels. I only use Hy-Tek polymer coating.
Roger, you be you then.
I got my first warning for teaching people how to 'make ammunition" for posting a video on common casting problems with lines in bullets and such. I think I am going to stop using YT and post on rumble. I don't make money her, yet I earn them money and the latter will stop going forward. This might even get removed. You can find me as archeryrob on Rumble. I am not tip toeing around their rules. I am a tinkerer and make things and will violate this over and over again. Best to get out before I waste more time here.
Thanks for the video. I'm just getting into molding my own bullets, starting with .45 Auto with the MP 452-374 HP, plain base, 4 cavity BR mold. I'm going to be making a lot of hollow points. I picked up a Wal-Mart brand Toaster oven, some #5 plastic containers, and ordered a couple of different Eastwood Powder coats. I noticed you didn't do any damage to your bullets when you loaded them into the cases. I'm going to use a sizing kit if I have any problems with the size of the bullets after molding and powder coating them. Have you sized any of your powder coated bullets? Does sizing do any damage to the powder coat? I also watched a video where this guy explained why powder coated bullets don't need a gas check, which I thought was a pretty good video and I agree with the guy's reasoning. I'm somewhat of a perfectionist myself, which is why I've been watching powder coating videos. I saw one where the guy just threw all his bullets on a tray and stuck them into the oven without separating them at all. The end result looked like crap but he was fine with it. They probably worked fine but that's just not how I want mine to look. I take pride in what I do and I'd hate to show a bullet to someone and say "here's a bullet I molded and powder coated" and have them look at me like I'm holding a turd in my hand.
Wow, one question at a time! What every you read about shake and bake, powder coating remember under40% humidity to get it to stick! I've read a lot of BS online and found this to be true. The one die that sizes the case and knocks out the primer expands the case so it can handle having the bullet inserted. It should flair the mouth enough for cast bullets. If not, you can get the Lee universal expanding die to do it.
I size everything. I cast the 9mm hollow points at .359 and then powder coat them making them thicker. Then size them to .356 with the lee sizer. The only trouble I had sizing was not shaking off bullets and double coating them before doing the stand up method. The coat was too thick and sizing tore up the sides. Yes, this video was in response to the "throwing them on the tray" style. I find they work, they just look like She-I-it and nothing I want attached to my work.
I gas check all rifle round and none on pistols.