I had forgotten how much I missed Elvis Ammo being on RUclips or UgeTube on a regular basis...I was excited when I had seen you posted another video, short or not. Thanks for what you do for this community Elvis....You and Full Lead Taco are the reason I got into casting and power coating my own bullets..
Performed my first successful powder coating on 9mm LEE bullet today. Much, much easier than I was expecting. Loaded about 100 rounds with the new bullet and I can’t wait to start again tomorrow. Thanks Elvis for your fine instructions.
Thank you Elvis, for putting up your powder coating videos. Your videos are down to earth and takes away the mystery from powder coating. Looks like its bye bye messy alox for me from now on.
I use Lee moulds exclusively and have had great luck with them dropping bullets at displayed sizes, .356 for my 9mm. Powder coating adds 1-1.5 thou so I also resize to ensure function and accuracy because the coating is not always perfectly round. Resizing ensures that. My .358 125's are great for 38/357 and will resize nicely for .356" 9mm and it's very easy. I even buy large quantities of the Berry's .358, 38 caliber 125gr bullets and they resize nicely to .356 for 9mm in the Lee kit if your looking for plated. One bullet can do it all for the 3 calibers. 38/357/9mm with that great Lee resize kit.
Elvis just found your site and watched this video. I've been casting for 50 years. I especially tuned in to your comments regarding bullet diameter. I have always slugged my bores for cast bullets. Then I size two thousands over bore diameter on average using a Lyman #2 alloy. If I am using hard cast bullets that are 18+ brinell above 1600 then I go one thousands over bore diameter with a gas check design bullet or I use a plain base bullet with a custom plain base gas check. The objective is to have the bullet seal the bore with proper bullet obturation which is dependent on alloy, diameter, velocity. Casting is a science but can be simple of all you are doing is pistol bullets under 1500 fps. But even then, proper diameter is very important. Thanks for the videos!
I use a small C press mounted upside down and have a plastic gallon jug that is set up so the exit end of the sizing die sets inside the mouth of the jug. Drop bullet in die and ram it down. Size bullet "poops" out the bottom into the jug. MUCH faster progress.
I have done powder-coating professionally and the cured powder should be rather thick (could be anywhere from .010 to .040 thick) if applied in the traditional way, so I'd want to size before coating to get it sized correctly, then after to bring it back down. The shake and bake method Elvis uses obvoiusly ends up being a much thinner coating. And no matter the thickness, as long as there is some coating thickness, it should act as a lubricant preventing lead contacting and sticking to the barrel.
Elvis I quench when they come out of the mold and I also quench after I power coat and they come out of the oven. Don't know whether that's the correct way of doing it but it seems like they always come out pretty nice.
Curtis depends on what you from your bullets. If they are not hard enough - try dropping them in water and they will over 6-8+ hours harden. If that is not enough, then you can look at adding other metals
Getting that same setup and press delivered tomorrow! Powdercoating mine in neon green so I can harvest them out of the dirt easier. The sizing process is even fun to watch, good video, thanks!
Great video. I dont think the bullets are getting stronger or harder. I have done a lot of metal work the more you work a metal the more fatigued the metal tends to get. In the end if it fits properly and is not over pressurized the barrel will resize it and will fit perfectly. If you sized a 357 bullet down to say 9mm it will increase the spread on target. Leaving them a thousand over is a good idea. As a example a 9mm barrel may be .355 but the bullets typically are .356 or even .357. In the end it is what works the best for you and your firearm. Be safe. Ask questions and have fun
I DO have a LEE press just like that one. I use it for:Bullet swaging, Ram Prime, separate de-priming, and rifle reloading. It serves multiple roles for me now.
MY QUESTION IS WAS IT $25? IS IT AS CHEAP AS THIS GUY CLAIMS IT IS SO FOR THE WHOLE KIT 50 BUCKS.? AND WHERE DID YOU GET IT AT WHAT'S THE NAME OF IT....???
@@ASwordoftheLordGod If memory serves me right, I bought it as a "stand alone" item about 20 yrs ago or more. It also works well for single stage rifle case reloading, de-priming, priming, ect.
@@ASwordoftheLordGod I didn't buy it as a "kit" as I already had a turret press from several years prior. I bought as a "stand alone" because I needed it for "other" utility work.
You do a great job of teaching I size after powder coating and I size all of my cast bullets I learn something on all of your videos always I really like the little c press a lot. GRATE VIDEO THANKS ELVIS
It really is necessary to lightly spray lube the bullets after they are powder coated and before they are sized. Makes it so much better. I boil some water and dunk the bullets in it to get the lube off. Soapy water would probably work just as well. Absolutely perfect results. Home made lanolin/alcohol spray lube.
I often size after casting and then lightly powder coat them and then load for the Lee 95 TC cast bullets. they are so tiny for 9mm that they drop right in the tube. But I think you are right sizing after because having to clean off the lube to powder coat is a wasted step.
I've cranked out 1,000s of 9mm bullets using MP Molds (.356/125g and 130g). I powder coat and size using a .356 lee sizer kit. After reloading, there is always a slight bulge in the 9mm case which is designed to accept .355 9mm bullets. As long as the OAL is acceptable for your gun, the rounds will chamber and fire just fine.
Back in the stone age " 40 yrs ago " I learned to cast from an old guy who was very well known , he casted bullets for the US Olympic Bulls eye team for many years. I though sizing was a pain in the rear, but I was also an accuracy fanatic. The wise old fellow explained it to me like this. He said " Yes you can shoot unsized bullets , but think of it in terms of s 6 cylinder car engine, if each cylinder had a different size piston the dam thing would never run right " well it made sense to me then and I still size all my bullets and I almost always have very good accuracy.
Hey Roha Waha... He sounds like a smart man! I tend to size everything but the 223. the lee 223 seems to make such little contact with the rifling .. only the thin driving bands.. But I am looking into getting a custom mold to change that... good to hear from ya!!!!
I use my 9mm cast bullets straight from the mould as they drop at .356. After tumble lubing them I load them. I've never got into powder coating as of yet. I see a lot of reloaders using powder coating but I've got too much lube to use up before I ever need any more lube. Rusty, K9POW in eastern Tennessee.
I had my cast bullets come out of the Lee mold closer to .360?!! Thank you for this video because I was having trouble chambering in my semiautomatic pistols.
Thanks Elvis, you clarified this issue and it makes sense just to resize after powder coating. And any time spent in your reloading cave is good time. The grass mowing can wait.
Your far better served sizing all after coating. You really need consistency for accuracy. Larger/smaller bullets give higher /lower pressure in turn faster/slower FPS. Letting the rifiling throat leade in size oversized bullets will compromise the coating also, inducing leading. Revolvers are a whole nother issue with proper size. The cylinder throats determine the size basee on the barrel groove diameter.
From what I've heard, you don't need to size cast bullets but it makes sense to size powder coated bullets because your adding thickness to the surface of the lead.
It is a subject that gets some scrutiny. In my experience sizing is always best. Even in the old Luber Sizer‘s the bullet was lubed and sized. Just my thoughts and my experience
To size your bullets before or after, that is the question, and I'm betting the answer is yes to both, because if the bullet is already oversized, it's going to be even more so with the powder coat, and at least if you size it before you powder coat it, you bring it down to the appropriate size, then you only need to resize it the thickness of the newly added powder.
Something I didn't hear mentioned.. From my understanding, the bullet should be .001" over the diameter of the groove measurement.. This would be the size you want your sizer to be.
And in case you wonder about black powder rifles and cartridges, they were "patched" with either pillow ticking, or paper, both acting as a form of "jacket" that prevented leading.
H82Bpor, the reason for gas checks is because of speed limitations of cast bullets. Pure lead can't be fired faster than 900 fps without leading the barrel. Casting harder alloys allows speeds up to 1200-1300 fps. For anything faster than that, you needed both a hard alloy, and gas checks to prevent leading the barrel. Even so, even with gas checks, cast bullet speeds are mostly limited to 2200-2300 fps although a few of the old timers could get 2500 fps or thereabouts. With this "new fangled" powder coating, it is starting to look like gas checks will become a thing of the past (although I'm still investigating - not converted yet).
I’ve been experimenting with different powders. Super Chrome being the latest. Amazing accuracy with my .40. Older fellows at the range are impressed. Adds .003-.005”. I size after powder coat. Keeps everything uniform. Thanks sooo much
I use a Lee 105 grain trunicated cone 9mm mold for 9mm I size after powder coating but for .38, 357 magnum and .38 S&W I do not run them though the sizer.
12-15-22. If i want to wind up with .358 bullets do i use a .357 mold and powdercoat and size to .358. Or do i use a .358 powdercoat and size to .358. Which would be best?
You got me into powder coating I size my PC bullets and if it is a hot round I gas check it. If it is subsonic probably not depends on Chrono the shot group and the holes in target if it is key hole then maybe gets a gas check
Well - this is most interesting. I load for 303 Brit. I have 5 rifles and they run from .312 to .316. So powder coating would make sense for me, as I load brass for individual rifles. Thank you.
You have to stick to SAAMI Specs on loaded ammo, to make sure it will function. If you're casting the right mix of alloy, you should get close enough to maybe not need to size, but you should lube. Powder coating or lubricating and correct bullet size are both essential.
At the beginning of this video I thought the question was 'should I size before or after I powder coat bullets" Gee, I don't think that question was really answered except for Elvis' example is sizing after powder coating. I tried sizing after powder coating and I see what appears to be bare lead on the sides of the bullets after sizing. Maybe size before and after, however that is a lot more effort and time. Is it worth sizing twice or maybe once before powder coating ?
Elvis Ammo I need to give you a thank you for teaching me powder coated bullets. I didn't like the mess of lubing cast bullets. I have a suggestion for a good video for you. Use the same bullet weight with a jacketed bullet vs a lubed cast bullet vs powder coated with the same powder charge and primer across your crony. Thank you again Sir
I'm ready to try this, I've been powder coating for quite a few years on automotive restoration parts. My question is why do you not get paint fouling in the barrel from the heat re-melting the paint?
I size my 9mm to 356 before powder coating them and then to 357 after powder coating. For 223 I size to 224 before coating and 225 after coating. For 300 BLK I size to 308 before coating and 309 after coating. For 38/357 mag I size to 357 before coating and 358 after coating. The 2nd sizing is probably not needed because most of the time they easily push though the sizer after coating them.
hey prepare2survive, yhea that works, I have done some of that myself. my question is why wouldn't you just size to 357 on the 9mm instead of sizing 356 first? on the 223 I like the idea, I just worry that the sizing softens the bullet what are your thoughts on that? and don't tell me OCD ; )
+elvis ammo I used to size the 9mm to 357 at first and then to 358 after coating for my Ruger pistol, but I started going down to 356 followed by 357 after coating because the lone wolf barrel for my glock is tight and I just figured I might as well keep the bullets smaller to avoid any feeding problems or higher pressure. I probably shouldn't worry because the lee factory crimp die makes it work fine regardless. I don't get a lot of resistance pushing through the 223 bullets in the sizer so it probably doesn't effect the internal hardness and probably just the sides a little, but because they are getting powder coated that shouldn't matter. Yesterday I just tested a batch of powder coated 223 bullets sized to 225 without gas checks using IMR 4227 powder and I got a max velocity of 2800 fps with 17.9 grains. The primers didn't look flat and I didn't see any other signs of excessive pressure so I might even be able to go higher, but first I want to test for accuracy up to that point because if I see the accuracy getting progressively worse the faster the bullets go I'll just stop and find the most accurate load below that. When working up a load like this it's probably better to have consistent sized bullets so you wont get fluctuations in pressure.
+Prepare2Survive yhea 357 is about right for these pc bullets. I will probably try that. just to see if there is any difference or benefits. originally I think I changed back to 356 for easier bullet seating, less flair. .. let me know how the new powder works for ya.. I have my eye on that one! I have a 1-8 16" barrel.
Holy Crap! With the price of ammo skyrocketing, and all us newbies powdercoating, the price of old used countertop ovens has exploded. I had to spend $10.00 on a used convection! 😆 With this liberal congress, we may have to worry about a countertop oven ban. Thanks for the tips Elvis. I "accidentally" got a .357 sizer. I stuck one in my cart, to research, and my wife ordered it. I've been sizing 9's and .38's with it, post powdercoating. Haven't had any accuracy problems out of the .38's. And, I tried running a factory 9mm jacketed through it. It wouldn't drop free.
Another very informative video..thanks Question..How is that LEE single stage press working out for you? I would like to get a single stage press to resize on and wasn't sure which Lee to purchase.. any information would be greatly appreciated..thanks
Good Information E.A. ..........I am getting ready to cast some C.312 -185 Lee rifle bullets for my 1909 Argentine Mauser. It has a .315 groove diamter. Hopefulley the Lee bullets will come out of the mold at .313 and the powder coating will add enough so that when I use my .316 sizer I wont have to beagle the mold.
Then . . . if you shoot more than one gun in the same caliber, resizing after coating is probably a good idea to start with. There's no way their chambers are likely to be the same.
In looking at the Lee catalog, I don't see a press like you're using. What is that press? I don't need a full press set up, I like your setup with the sized bullet going up and in to the container.
Elvis, I am fixing to get into powder coating 9MM's that I cast up in the LEE 2 cavity 124 grain tc mold and thank's to you and FortuneCookie45LC , I will be powder coating all my cast bullet's now,I really enjoy saving moolah and shooting more...I dig it, KEEP ON ROCKIN IT !!!...
Powder coated my first 9mm bullets today they were .361, .362 after coating. I like you thought that was a little big, so I ran them through the sizing die. Good video.
The only issue of a over-oversized cast bullet (.005 inches for example), is only leading the barrel. But powder coat is here to prevent that from happening. So where is the issue ? Just use them straight.
If you have a .3575+ sized 9mm you may have issues getting them to seat in the case and you may have serious pressure issued in the chamber when shooting them. Bullets are already larger than the bore of the gun. Allowing them to be even larger can create problems.
I size all my coated bullets. Why? Because all the coated bullets I use measured are .001-.002 over, even though they are sized by the manufacturer after coating. My 38 super race gun uses .356 dia projectiles, the coated bullets I have purchased from 2 different makers have been oversized by the amount stated above. That may not sound like much, as DustinNuff said pressure go up and consistency suffers. A $40 lee sizer is cheap insurance. Hope this helps
When loading for lever guns (,357 or 38 special) you need to size your bullets. Reasoning is simple, out of the molds they are .358. That is fine for a revolver as the cylinder chambers are usually ,358 to .359 and the forcing cone to the barrel will size them correctly when fired. However, if you try to use those .358 bullets in the lever gun they can hang up when they try to chamber as the lever gun has to make a turn at the top to accept the round. If you lube and size the rounds for lever gun they will usually accept the same rounds as the revolver.
Thank for all your videos. I use 'em as almost as the reloading bible. I have a off the wall question. I power coated, went great. I bought the Lee Precision - 90046 SIZING DIE KIT .356 now here is the question. After resizing the lead and load them to boolits. Can I use the same die to resize the brass to lessen the "bulge" or do I need to buy to buy the factory crimp die?
Crimp dies are designed to put a tighter grip from the brass to bullet, they will not take any bulge out as they mostly crimp the very top edge of the brass, maybe only the top 1/16 of an inch or so. Just make sure your brass is properly trimmed and sized with a sizing die before loading the bullets. Too tight of a crimp will give it a fat guy with a tight belt kind of look, like an hourglass. This is no goodies.
Elvis, I'm shooting a 327 federal magnum which has a .312 diameter bullet. Lee does not make .312 diameter resizer, nor a .313. can I get away with a .311 resizing kit ?
Have you ever turned that press with the sizing lubricating die in it upside down. Feeds pretty quick. You can put a clear plastic tube on it and feed it over to a bucket and really crank out a pile. The problem though is you're going through nose first. You can go pretty darn fast but the problem I see is when I powder coat or high-tech coat if I go through knows first and I'm running fat it drags coding and lead off the base of the bullet makes like a little apron.
Cast bullets are supposed to be .001-.002 oversized. They are not supposed to be the same size as jacketed bullets. Cast bullets will not be as accurate or clean as jacketed bullets unless you make sure they are a couple thou oversized.
Mine was not doing so hot @3 thousandths over. .357 &.358 was causing a Lot of leading after 100 rnds one pistol and 1 pcc. Accuracy was fine in close and at 100 yards until the leading started. Ordered a lee sizer and different powdercoat
I always size my lead alloy cast Projectiles before and after powder coating. A little extra work, and knowing that the cast lead alloy projectiles are correct and uniform in size.
kw2798 Sizing before and after powder coating lead alloy projectiles that I cast, is great therapy for my OCD. Doing this is very important for me, it helps me relax. There is nothing wrong with going through process of resizing twice. Some would say it's not necessary to resize before and after powder coating. It probably isn't necessary.Better safe than sorry. My grandchildren shoot my reloads with the cast lead alloy projectiles. I have never had a misfire or any problems with my reloads. Plus I use the minimum amount of gun powder in my reloads, that allows my semi automatic pistols to cycle properly. In my revolvers, I use the minimal amount of gun powder in my reloads. These reloads that my grandchildren shoot ate for basic target practice. What sucks is it is cheaper to reload most pistol bullets, than purchase .22LR ammunition. I purchased 25,000 rounds of .22LR from an estate sale in 1995. There were 50 bricks,500 rounds per brick,10 boxes of 50 rounds of the 22LR. I paid $20.00 for the lot. In 2015 I was getting to the point of having to purchase more .22LR Ammo. I could not believe that the .22LR Ammo was not easily obtained, and the ridiculous prices.I refuse to pay the ridiculous prices for 22LR. Ammo. There are people who hoard .22 LR Ammo. If this Ammo is not stored properly, the primers can and will go bad. I didn't hoard the 25,000 rounds of the .22LR Ammo that I purchased at an estate sale. I sold over half to my friends at the actual price I paid. No profit made!!. My children and grandchildren shot the rest.
I just did my first batch of cast PC 9mm using a Lee TL356-124-TC mold. I needed to size before and after powder coating because some of the rounds were coming in at ~362+ out of the mold. Not sure what the issue is as most were perfect (~5% are way too big). What is the issue causing some to be so oversized out of the mold? On another note, I used your low heat method for PC. I put them in the oven at 275 for 15 minutes. Then let them cool and toss them in a cardboard box. They broke apart perfectly.
Elvis Ammo, I bought a Hornady Bullet Feeder. I use coated cast bullets for my 45acp. I found out that they don't work in Hornady's bullet feeder. Now would I have to size all my coated cast bullets in order to make it work?. Hornady told me that the collets scrap the power coating and cause the bullet not to feed. So if the coated cast bullet was sized correctly there should be no scraping and the bullet should feed correctly. What do you think.
@@PyroRob69 I sized my 200 Grn coated bullets and tried again using the Hornady bullet feeder and it still didn't work. I even tried using a 230 Grn FMJ and it still didn't work. It was a small investment nothing lost. But I would not recommend the Hornady bullet feeder.
Hey, Antonio. .. I really don't think there is a difference between commercial polymer and powdercoat as far as performance goes. now when it comes to rifle calibers, reasonable lead hardness still applies for the amount of pressure you put on it. Hope I answered your question? thanks for watching and commenting! !!!
Yeah, after watching your video and hearing about the lube and sizing kit from Lee being about $20 but what about the press you're using; what's that called? That's not part of the deal with Lee sizing kit.
hey Mr Pels, I lean towards the jacketed data. the only difference is the bullet tolerance itself. this usually only applies to rifle loads. how much pressure they can withstand. ... thanks for watching!
September 2020, they are going for about $50 on EBay. The powder is melted onto the surface of the bullet, so it's already one with the bullet, but sizing should not effect it one way or the other. Take a hammer and smash one and you can see that it will conform to the new smooshed shape.
So, if you quench the bullet after powder coating. Especially since you've got your new method you said you do that. Does the powder coat sink into the bullet better still? I know you said after you bake them you go ahead and size. So I'm wondering do you do that bc they're warm? Seems like a trade off bit very interesting..?? 🤔🤔
If you use the "Shake & Bake" method Elvis uses there will be thin and bald spots on the bullets so some lead might show through. Originally the powder was blown over the part and because it was charged with huge amounts of static electricity the powder would be drawn to and would cake up on the part nice and thick, then baking would give you a thick coating. I have a metal security plate I bolted inside my mailbox that I powder-coated red more than 12 years ago and it has been out in the weather of Illinois all that time and has yet to show any signs of rust.
Well bought some water based bullet lube that Elvis talked about in another video. Applied it to my freshly cast and powder coated bullets and hadno damage to the powder coat. Try it!
I slugged my 9mm barrel, .356. My Lee 356-120 TC mold drops .358 bullets. Plan to powder coat. Wisdom says the final size should be .001 - .002 bigger than the barrel. Should I go for .357? Might .358 be to tight for my pistol? Thoughts?
hey Roger, I don't think 2 over is gonna be a problem, but if you're gonna be powder coating you'll probably get an additional 3 , that could be a problem. .. thanks for watching and commenting Roger!
Is there any noticable accuracy difference of cast PC bullets with grease grooves tumble grooves or no grooves? I have some of each? Also can i PC over greese grooves. Or whats the best way toget rid of wax lube, so i can PC.
hey Todd Newsom! either desition you make between the Hornady and dillion are going to serve you well... maybe the things that come with it can make up your mind, accessories etc. you need a set of dies for each caliber and shellplates for your brass to ride in. that's the minimum. The press you got glimpse of on my bench is a Lee Loadmaster progressive press, They can look almost identical at a glance, or from a distance. you can't go wrong with the area your looking in. Very good stuff... thanks for watching Todd!
ur on the right track just got trim up the losseys crimp hard run through resizin dye bust them bulges out v duct um barrel them bang down range into water tank recover perfect bullet reload it pow boom goes the dynomo
Mr. Elivs, Plan to cast some of your 160 gr. supersonic blackout. I have checked with FS and Titan reloading and all they have is the 2 cavity moulds. Where did you purchase Lee CTL-312-160-2R?Appreciate your help.
Hey TheChero6.. I get a lot of stuff from Midway USA, Midsouth Shooting and Optic Planet. My Favorite Super is the Lee C 312-155-2R Seems to be my most accurate in my rifle.. The 160 is really good too though! Thanks for watching!
hey Robert Fugate... I dont think one is better than the other, Im getting almost perfect results. Easy to apply and no leading at about any velocity I want. The rest is up to sizing properly and bhn for what your trying to accomplish , expansion wise. Not to say im not interested in the hitek... just dont see a result changer. thanks for watching and contributing!
+Miles Huggins hey Miles, some how missed your comment, Thats kinda strange. it sounds fine to me that it throws 358 some people like that. If its a problem im sure Lee will correct it for you.....
I had forgotten how much I missed Elvis Ammo being on RUclips or UgeTube on a regular basis...I was excited when I had seen you posted another video, short or not. Thanks for what you do for this community Elvis....You and Full Lead Taco are the reason I got into casting and power coating my own bullets..
Performed my first successful powder coating on 9mm LEE bullet today. Much, much easier than I was expecting. Loaded about 100 rounds with the new bullet and I can’t wait to start again tomorrow. Thanks Elvis for your fine instructions.
Thank you Elvis, for putting up your powder coating videos. Your videos are down to earth and takes away the mystery from powder coating. Looks like its bye bye messy alox for me from now on.
hey Jet Valmonte... glad to help my friend. ... thanks for taking the time to comment! !!!
I use Lee moulds exclusively and have had great luck with them dropping bullets at displayed sizes, .356 for my 9mm. Powder coating adds 1-1.5 thou so I also resize to ensure function and accuracy because the coating is not always perfectly round. Resizing ensures that. My .358 125's are great for 38/357 and will resize nicely for .356" 9mm and it's very easy. I even buy large quantities of the Berry's .358, 38 caliber 125gr bullets and they resize nicely to .356 for 9mm in the Lee kit if your looking for plated. One bullet can do it all for the 3 calibers. 38/357/9mm with that great Lee resize kit.
I like to size after powder coating.
Sizing first would require lubing, sizing, then cleaning off lube before powder coating can be done.
Elvis just found your site and watched this video. I've been casting for 50 years. I especially tuned in to your comments regarding bullet diameter. I have always slugged my bores for cast bullets. Then I size two thousands over bore diameter on average using a Lyman #2 alloy. If I am using hard cast bullets that are 18+ brinell above 1600 then I go one thousands over bore diameter with a gas check design bullet or I use a plain base bullet with a custom plain base gas check. The objective is to have the bullet seal the bore with proper bullet obturation which is dependent on alloy, diameter, velocity. Casting is a science but can be simple of all you are doing is pistol bullets under 1500 fps. But even then, proper diameter is very important. Thanks for the videos!
I use a small C press mounted upside down and have a plastic gallon jug that is set up so the exit end of the sizing die sets inside the mouth of the jug. Drop bullet in die and ram it down. Size bullet "poops" out the bottom into the jug. MUCH faster progress.
I have done powder-coating professionally and the cured powder should be rather thick (could be anywhere from .010 to .040 thick) if applied in the traditional way, so I'd want to size before coating to get it sized correctly, then after to bring it back down.
The shake and bake method Elvis uses obvoiusly ends up being a much thinner coating.
And no matter the thickness, as long as there is some coating thickness, it should act as a lubricant preventing lead contacting and sticking to the barrel.
Elvis I quench when they come out of the mold and I also quench after I power coat and they come out of the oven. Don't know whether that's the correct way of doing it but it seems like they always come out pretty nice.
Curtis depends on what you from your bullets. If they are not hard enough - try dropping them in water and they will over 6-8+ hours harden. If that is not enough, then you can look at adding other metals
Getting that same setup and press delivered tomorrow! Powdercoating mine in neon green so I can harvest them out of the dirt easier. The sizing process is even fun to watch, good video, thanks!
Great video. I dont think the bullets are getting stronger or harder. I have done a lot of metal work the more you work a metal the more fatigued the metal tends to get. In the end if it fits properly and is not over pressurized the barrel will resize it and will fit perfectly. If you sized a 357 bullet down to say 9mm it will increase the spread on target. Leaving them a thousand over is a good idea. As a example a 9mm barrel may be .355 but the bullets typically are .356 or even .357. In the end it is what works the best for you and your firearm. Be safe. Ask questions and have fun
I do both, size after casting and size after every powder coat. I also buy the custom sizing dies from Lee specific to my barrel size
I DO have a LEE press just like that one.
I use it for:Bullet swaging, Ram Prime, separate de-priming, and rifle reloading.
It serves multiple roles for me now.
MY QUESTION IS WAS IT $25? IS IT AS CHEAP AS THIS GUY CLAIMS IT IS SO FOR THE WHOLE KIT 50 BUCKS.? AND WHERE DID YOU GET IT AT WHAT'S THE NAME OF IT....???
@@ASwordoftheLordGod If memory serves me right, I bought it as a "stand alone" item about 20 yrs ago or more.
It also works well for single stage rifle case reloading, de-priming, priming, ect.
@@ASwordoftheLordGod Yes... it was about that price. Not any more though...
@@ASwordoftheLordGod I didn't buy it as a "kit" as I already had a turret press from several years prior.
I bought as a "stand alone" because I needed it for "other" utility work.
@@ASwordoftheLordGod They WERE about that price, once upon a time.
NOT any more...🤔
You do a great job of teaching I size after powder coating and I size all of my cast bullets I learn something on all of your videos always I really like the little c press a lot. GRATE VIDEO THANKS ELVIS
Around the 380 time, you said the bullet you measured was .370", a 9mm should be around .356" ?
It really is necessary to lightly spray lube the bullets after they are powder coated and before they are sized. Makes it so much better. I boil some water and dunk the bullets in it to get the lube off. Soapy water would probably work just as well. Absolutely perfect results. Home made lanolin/alcohol spray lube.
I often size after casting and then lightly powder coat them and then load for the Lee 95 TC cast bullets. they are so tiny for 9mm that they drop right in the tube.
But I think you are right sizing after because having to clean off the lube to powder coat is a wasted step.
I've cranked out 1,000s of 9mm bullets using MP Molds (.356/125g and 130g). I powder coat and size using a .356 lee sizer kit. After reloading, there is always a slight bulge in the 9mm case which is designed to accept .355 9mm bullets. As long as the OAL is acceptable for your gun, the rounds will chamber and fire just fine.
I like to call that bulge the bullets panty line... lol
Back in the stone age " 40 yrs ago " I learned to cast from an old guy who was very well known , he casted bullets for the US Olympic Bulls eye team for many years. I though sizing was a pain in the rear, but I was also an accuracy fanatic. The wise old fellow explained it to me like this. He said " Yes you can shoot unsized bullets , but think of it in terms of s 6 cylinder car engine, if each cylinder had a different size piston the dam thing would never run right " well it made sense to me then and I still size all my bullets and I almost always have very good accuracy.
Hey Roha Waha... He sounds like a smart man! I tend to size everything but the 223. the lee 223 seems to make such little contact with the rifling .. only the thin driving bands.. But I am looking into getting a custom mold to change that... good to hear from ya!!!!
Ok Boomer. :)
That car analogy is just not good, sorry.
I use my 9mm cast bullets straight from the mould as they drop at .356. After tumble lubing them I load them. I've never got into powder coating as of yet. I see a lot of reloaders using powder coating but I've got too much lube to use up before I ever need any more lube. Rusty, K9POW in eastern Tennessee.
Watching your classes (videos) should earn continuing education credits for reloaders. Thank you sir.
Hey Hardy Birch.. hehe.. thank ya sir! : )
I had my cast bullets come out of the Lee mold closer to .360?!! Thank you for this video because I was having trouble chambering in my semiautomatic pistols.
First powdercoat, then size. This is a must because I use molds that have been dremeled to gain some extra diameter and get rid of the wax groove.
Thanks Elvis, you clarified this issue and it makes sense just to resize after powder coating. And any time spent in your reloading cave is good time. The grass mowing can wait.
Thanks for putting in the effort in putting out this info for our benefit.
Your far better served sizing all after coating. You really need consistency for accuracy. Larger/smaller bullets give higher /lower pressure in turn faster/slower FPS. Letting the rifiling throat leade in size oversized bullets will compromise the coating also, inducing leading. Revolvers are a whole nother issue with proper size. The cylinder throats determine the size basee on the barrel groove diameter.
From what I've heard, you don't need to size cast bullets but it makes sense to size powder coated bullets because your adding thickness to the surface of the lead.
It is a subject that gets some scrutiny. In my experience sizing is always best. Even in the old Luber Sizer‘s the bullet was lubed and sized. Just my thoughts and my experience
To size your bullets before or after, that is the question, and I'm betting the answer is yes to both, because if the bullet is already oversized, it's going to be even more so with the powder coat, and at least if you size it before you powder coat it, you bring it down to the appropriate size, then you only need to resize it the thickness of the newly added powder.
Something I didn't hear mentioned.. From my understanding, the bullet should be .001" over the diameter of the groove measurement.. This would be the size you want your sizer to be.
And in case you wonder about black powder rifles and cartridges, they were "patched" with either pillow ticking, or paper, both acting as a form of "jacket" that prevented leading.
hey kirk. .. that's what makes what we're doing here so exciting. . it a whole new world so far.. and lots more to discover!
H82Bpor, the reason for gas checks is because of speed limitations of cast bullets. Pure lead can't be fired faster than 900 fps without leading the barrel. Casting harder alloys allows speeds up to 1200-1300 fps. For anything faster than that, you needed both a hard alloy, and gas checks to prevent leading the barrel. Even so, even with gas checks, cast bullet speeds are mostly limited to 2200-2300 fps although a few of the old timers could get 2500 fps or thereabouts. With this "new fangled" powder coating, it is starting to look like gas checks will become a thing of the past (although I'm still investigating - not converted yet).
hey kirk... we will be learning a little more coming up pretty soon.
Thanks for the answer.ive got to slug my Marlin,but suspect it to be over sized.
Thank you just makes sense to size after powder coating
I size all PC’d 9mm bullets to 356 and they shoot well!
I’ve been experimenting with different powders. Super Chrome being the latest. Amazing accuracy with my .40. Older fellows at the range are impressed. Adds .003-.005”. I size after powder coat. Keeps everything uniform. Thanks sooo much
I use a Lee 105 grain trunicated cone 9mm mold for 9mm I size after powder coating but for .38, 357 magnum and .38 S&W I do not run them though the sizer.
I haven't commented before, but you make great vids!!!
logic would tell u the last step before u load them would be to resize. thats the way ive heard its always been done
Wish I could find em for $20! Odd note, just bought a .358 and it DIDN'T come with alox. Come to think of it I should leave a review on those jokers.
12-15-22. If i want to wind up with .358 bullets do i use a .357 mold and powdercoat and size to .358. Or do i use a .358 powdercoat and size to .358. Which would be best?
You got me into powder coating I size my PC bullets and if it is a hot round I gas check it. If it is subsonic probably not depends on Chrono the shot group and the holes in target if it is key hole then maybe gets a gas check
Thanks for the info Elvis
Well - this is most interesting. I load for 303 Brit. I have 5 rifles and they run from .312 to .316. So powder coating would make sense for me, as I load brass for individual rifles. Thank you.
You have to stick to SAAMI Specs on loaded ammo, to make sure it will function.
If you're casting the right mix of alloy, you should get close enough to maybe not need to size, but you should lube.
Powder coating or lubricating and correct bullet size are both essential.
At the beginning of this video I thought the question was 'should I size before or after I powder coat bullets" Gee, I don't think that question was really answered except for Elvis' example is sizing after powder coating. I tried sizing after powder coating and I see what appears to be bare lead on the sides of the bullets after sizing. Maybe size before and after, however that is a lot more effort and time. Is it worth sizing twice or maybe once before powder coating ?
Elvis Ammo I need to give you a thank you for teaching me powder coated bullets. I didn't like the mess of lubing cast bullets.
I have a suggestion for a good video for you. Use the same bullet weight with a jacketed bullet vs a lubed cast bullet vs powder coated with the same powder charge and primer across your crony.
Thank you again Sir
I'm ready to try this, I've been powder coating for quite a few years on automotive restoration parts. My question is why do you not get paint fouling in the barrel from the heat re-melting the paint?
I size my 9mm to 356 before powder coating them and then to 357 after powder coating. For 223 I size to 224 before coating and 225 after coating. For 300 BLK I size to 308 before coating and 309 after coating. For 38/357 mag I size to 357 before coating and 358 after coating. The 2nd sizing is probably not needed because most of the time they easily push though the sizer after coating them.
hey prepare2survive, yhea that works, I have done some of that myself. my question is why wouldn't you just size to 357 on the 9mm instead of sizing 356 first? on the 223 I like the idea, I just worry that the sizing softens the bullet what are your thoughts on that? and don't tell me OCD ; )
+elvis ammo I used to size the 9mm to 357 at first and then to 358 after coating for my Ruger pistol, but I started going down to 356 followed by 357 after coating because the lone wolf barrel for my glock is tight and I just figured I might as well keep the bullets smaller to avoid any feeding problems or higher pressure. I probably shouldn't worry because the lee factory crimp die makes it work fine regardless. I don't get a lot of resistance pushing through the 223 bullets in the sizer so it probably doesn't effect the internal hardness and probably just the sides a little, but because they are getting powder coated that shouldn't matter. Yesterday I just tested a batch of powder coated 223 bullets sized to 225 without gas checks using IMR 4227 powder and I got a max velocity of 2800 fps with 17.9 grains. The primers didn't look flat and I didn't see any other signs of excessive pressure so I might even be able to go higher, but first I want to test for accuracy up to that point because if I see the accuracy getting progressively worse the faster the bullets go I'll just stop and find the most accurate load below that. When working up a load like this it's probably better to have consistent sized bullets so you wont get fluctuations in pressure.
+Prepare2Survive yhea 357 is about right for these pc bullets. I will probably try that. just to see if there is any difference or benefits. originally I think I changed back to 356 for easier bullet seating, less flair. .. let me know how the new powder works for ya.. I have my eye on that one! I have a 1-8 16" barrel.
Holy Crap! With the price of ammo skyrocketing, and all us newbies powdercoating, the price of old used countertop ovens has exploded. I had to spend $10.00 on a used convection! 😆 With this liberal congress, we may have to worry about a countertop oven ban.
Thanks for the tips Elvis. I "accidentally" got a .357 sizer. I stuck one in my cart, to research, and my wife ordered it. I've been sizing 9's and .38's with it, post powdercoating. Haven't had any accuracy problems out of the .38's. And, I tried running a factory 9mm jacketed through it. It wouldn't drop free.
Another very informative video..thanks
Question..How is that LEE single stage press working out for you?
I would like to get a single stage press to resize on and wasn't sure which Lee to purchase.. any information would be greatly appreciated..thanks
Yes that answered most of my questions but the last one is do you still lube them with the liquid Alex after you coat them and size them
Great video, thanks,, lots of questions I didn't know I had have been answered by this vid.
I powder coat and then resize to remove the powder coat.
Hello Elvis, I'm a novice reloader. When casting your bullets with wheel weights do you add any other metal or not. thanks
Good Information E.A. ..........I am getting ready to cast some C.312 -185 Lee rifle bullets for my 1909 Argentine Mauser. It has a .315 groove diamter. Hopefulley the Lee bullets will come out of the mold at .313 and the powder coating will add enough so that when I use my .316 sizer I wont have to beagle the mold.
Then . . . if you shoot more than one gun in the same caliber, resizing after coating is probably a good idea to start with. There's no way their chambers are likely to be the same.
In looking at the Lee catalog, I don't see a press like you're using. What is that press? I don't need a full press set up, I like your setup with the sized bullet going up and in to the container.
Look up Lee sizing die kit. It has a die, a punch and the red container it comes in that collects the sized bullets. It fits most single stage presses
@@chknlyps2373 Thank you!
a pleasure to watch. thanks.
hey enoreach007... Im glad ya like the videos! Thank you for your comments and thanks for watching!
You have made some great points Thank You
Great video look forward to hearing more Lee thank you
Elvis, I am fixing to get into powder coating 9MM's that I cast up in the LEE 2 cavity 124 grain tc mold and thank's to you and FortuneCookie45LC , I will be powder coating all my cast bullet's now,I really enjoy saving moolah and shooting more...I dig it, KEEP ON ROCKIN IT !!!...
Great vid, I have been reloading for a bit now, just started casting..
thanks H82bpor... best of luck to ya with the casting bug!!! : )
How do you deal with clay pigeons in your range scrap? How do you remove them from the mix? They melt into something terrible
Powder coated my first 9mm bullets today they were .361, .362 after coating. I like you thought that was a little big, so I ran them through the sizing die. Good video.
Cool deal Mr Lawson! !! that's awesome. . thanks so much for getting back and letting me know how it went!! feels pretty good huh?
The only issue of a over-oversized cast bullet (.005 inches for example), is only leading the barrel.
But powder coat is here to prevent that from happening. So where is the issue ? Just use them straight.
If you have a .3575+ sized 9mm you may have issues getting them to seat in the case and you may have serious pressure issued in the chamber when shooting them. Bullets are already larger than the bore of the gun. Allowing them to be even larger can create problems.
I size all my coated bullets. Why? Because all the coated bullets I use measured are .001-.002 over, even though they are sized by the manufacturer after coating. My 38 super race gun uses .356 dia projectiles, the coated bullets I have purchased from 2 different makers have been oversized by the amount stated above. That may not sound like much, as DustinNuff said pressure go up and consistency suffers. A $40 lee sizer is cheap insurance. Hope this helps
What about gas checks ? Do powder coat bullets still need gas checks ? Some say no, some say yes?
When loading for lever guns (,357 or 38 special) you need to size your bullets. Reasoning is simple, out of the molds they are .358. That is fine for a revolver as the cylinder chambers are usually ,358 to .359 and the forcing cone to the barrel will size them correctly when fired. However, if you try to use those .358 bullets in the lever gun they can hang up when they try to chamber as the lever gun has to make a turn at the top to accept the round. If you lube and size the rounds for lever gun they will usually accept the same rounds as the revolver.
Thank for all your videos. I use 'em as almost as the reloading bible. I have a off the wall question. I power coated, went great. I bought the Lee Precision - 90046 SIZING DIE KIT .356 now here is the question. After resizing the lead and load them to boolits. Can I use the same die to resize the brass to lessen the "bulge" or do I need to buy to buy the factory crimp die?
Crimp dies are designed to put a tighter grip from the brass to bullet, they will not take any bulge out as they mostly crimp the very top edge of the brass, maybe only the top 1/16 of an inch or so. Just make sure your brass is properly trimmed and sized with a sizing die before loading the bullets.
Too tight of a crimp will give it a fat guy with a tight belt kind of look, like an hourglass. This is no goodies.
@@JamesS.254 Lee’s Carbide Factory Crimp Die will resize the brass after loading. It will remove bulges.
@@gregoryvanek9038 After re-reading the original post, I see where I made my mistake. But wouldn't you want to remove the bulge before you load it?
Elvis, I'm shooting a 327 federal magnum which has a .312 diameter bullet. Lee does not make .312 diameter resizer, nor a .313. can I get away with a .311 resizing kit ?
Lee will make you a custom die. Give them a call. ... or buy the .311 and have it honed to .312.
@@gregoryvanek9038 thanks Freddy, since its powder coated lead cast .313 should be ok. I loaded some up last night will shoot them soon.
Have you ever turned that press with the sizing lubricating die in it upside down. Feeds pretty quick. You can put a clear plastic tube on it and feed it over to a bucket and really crank out a pile. The problem though is you're going through nose first. You can go pretty darn fast but the problem I see is when I powder coat or high-tech coat if I go through knows first and I'm running fat it drags coding and lead off the base of the bullet makes like a little apron.
that sounds like a good idea
That sounds like a solution to a non-existing problem.
Cast bullets are supposed to be .001-.002 oversized. They are not supposed to be the same size as jacketed bullets. Cast bullets will not be as accurate or clean as jacketed bullets unless you make sure they are a couple thou oversized.
Correct. It's all about the material type and sealing the bullet to barrel rifling. Copper seal is different than that of lead.
Mine was not doing so hot @3 thousandths over. .357 &.358 was causing a Lot of leading after 100 rnds one pistol and 1 pcc. Accuracy was fine in close and at 100 yards until the leading started.
Ordered a lee sizer and different powdercoat
Try a harder alloy. Your velocity may be too high for the alloy you are using.
I always size my lead alloy cast Projectiles before and after powder coating. A little extra work, and knowing that the cast lead alloy projectiles are correct and uniform in size.
hey M dlanor... It's a little OCD.. But I got some of that myself.... It Definitely gets em tuned up right!
elvis ammo
It's absolutely OCD. Reloading is excellent therapy for me.
I also size before AND after powdercoating. After-sizing cuts off any plastic dags from the base of the bullet and is quick and easy.
kw2798
Sizing before and after powder coating lead alloy projectiles that I cast, is great therapy for my OCD. Doing this is very important for me, it helps me relax.
There is nothing wrong with going through process of resizing twice. Some would say it's not necessary to resize before and after powder coating. It probably isn't necessary.Better safe than sorry. My grandchildren shoot my reloads with the cast lead alloy projectiles. I have never had a misfire or any problems with my reloads. Plus I use the minimum amount of gun powder in my reloads, that allows my semi automatic pistols to cycle properly. In my revolvers, I use the minimal amount of gun powder in my reloads. These reloads that my grandchildren shoot ate for basic target practice.
What sucks is it is cheaper to reload most pistol bullets, than purchase
.22LR ammunition. I purchased 25,000 rounds of .22LR from an estate sale in 1995. There were 50 bricks,500 rounds per brick,10 boxes of 50 rounds of the 22LR. I paid $20.00 for the lot. In 2015 I was getting to the point of having to purchase more .22LR Ammo. I could not believe that the .22LR Ammo was not easily obtained, and the ridiculous prices.I refuse to pay the ridiculous prices for 22LR. Ammo. There are people who hoard .22 LR Ammo. If this Ammo is not stored properly, the primers can and will go bad. I didn't hoard the 25,000 rounds of the .22LR Ammo that I purchased at an estate sale. I sold over half to my friends at the actual price I paid. No profit made!!. My children and grandchildren shot the rest.
I just did my first batch of cast PC 9mm using a Lee TL356-124-TC mold. I needed to size before and after powder coating because some of the rounds were coming in at ~362+ out of the mold. Not sure what the issue is as most were perfect (~5% are way too big). What is the issue causing some to be so oversized out of the mold?
On another note, I used your low heat method for PC. I put them in the oven at 275 for 15 minutes. Then let them cool and toss them in a cardboard box. They broke apart perfectly.
Elvis Ammo, I bought a Hornady Bullet Feeder. I use coated cast bullets for my 45acp. I found out that they don't work in Hornady's bullet feeder. Now would I have to size all my coated cast bullets in order to make it work?. Hornady told me that the collets scrap the power coating and cause the bullet not to feed. So if the coated cast bullet was sized correctly there should be no scraping and the bullet should feed correctly. What do you think.
If the collet is scraping the powder coat off, I would suspect it would also scrape off any other kind of tumble lube as well.
@@PyroRob69 I sized my 200 Grn coated bullets and tried again using the Hornady bullet feeder and it still didn't work. I even tried using a 230 Grn FMJ and it still didn't work. It was a small investment nothing lost. But I would not recommend the Hornady bullet feeder.
Yeah, that kind of sucks. Since I load them all on a single stage press, that is one less problem I have to worry about.
How the hell did I miss this video? Keep it up!
Wow there are some great reloading videos! Is there a substantial difference between bullet specific powder coats and the commercial ones?
Hey, Antonio. .. I really don't think there is a difference between commercial polymer and powdercoat as far as performance goes. now when it comes to rifle calibers, reasonable lead hardness still applies for the amount of pressure you put on it. Hope I answered your question? thanks for watching and commenting! !!!
how long do you rest cast bullets before Powder coating?
Yeah, after watching your video and hearing about the lube and sizing kit from Lee being about $20 but what about the press you're using; what's that called? That's not part of the deal with Lee sizing kit.
THats a reloading press, you can use any except dillon
That looks like a Lee press. It’s one of their smallest/simplest presses. Should be about $30 if I recall correctly.
@@paulspeers272 Not so long ago,lee was giving those presses for free when you bought a reloading manual.
THANK YOU!!!
do you still use the cast bullet loading recipes or do you use jacketed bullet recipes..great videos .
hey Mr Pels, I lean towards the jacketed data. the only difference is the bullet tolerance itself. this usually only applies to rifle loads. how much pressure they can withstand. ... thanks for watching!
September 2020, they are going for about $50 on EBay.
The powder is melted onto the surface of the bullet, so it's already one with the bullet, but sizing should not effect it one way or the other.
Take a hammer and smash one and you can see that it will conform to the new smooshed shape.
I just bought a sizing die on ebay for 31 bucks. It does not come with the liquid alox.
So, if you quench the bullet after powder coating. Especially since you've got your new method you said you do that. Does the powder coat sink into the bullet better still? I know you said after you bake them you go ahead and size. So I'm wondering do you do that bc they're warm? Seems like a trade off bit very interesting..?? 🤔🤔
I know this video is older but i'm really curious. does sizing after you coat them damage the coating? i have zero experience and am just taking notes
Terran Mace no, you can put a hammer to one and the powder coating stays on your projectile.
@@craignmz5264 so the sizer doesn't shave? It squeezes?
Terran Mace correct.
Did you try Thor's Axe Cast Bullet Lubrication and Rooster Jacket floor wax hack?
Fortunecookie is probably right. Especially if you are using a factory crimp die because that'll essentially size them while inside the brass.
yhea especially if you're not far out on the dimensions. .....
I've had problems with powder coating being scraped off when resizing.
Leaving shiny lead exposed.What am I doing wrong?
me too?
If you use the "Shake & Bake" method Elvis uses there will be thin and bald spots on the bullets so some lead might show through.
Originally the powder was blown over the part and because it was charged with huge amounts of static electricity the powder would be drawn to and would cake up on the part nice and thick, then baking would give you a thick coating.
I have a metal security plate I bolted inside my mailbox that I powder-coated red more than 12 years ago and it has been out in the weather of Illinois all that time and has yet to show any signs of rust.
Well bought some water based bullet lube that Elvis talked about in another video. Applied it to my freshly cast and powder coated bullets and hadno damage to the powder coat. Try it!
I slugged my 9mm barrel, .356. My Lee 356-120 TC mold drops .358 bullets. Plan to powder coat. Wisdom says the final size should be .001 - .002 bigger than the barrel. Should I go for .357? Might .358 be to tight for my pistol? Thoughts?
hey Roger, I don't think 2 over is gonna be a problem, but if you're gonna be powder coating you'll probably get an additional 3 , that could be a problem. .. thanks for watching and commenting Roger!
Is there any noticable accuracy difference of cast PC bullets with grease grooves tumble grooves or no grooves? I have some of each?
Also can i PC over greese grooves. Or whats the best way toget rid of wax lube, so i can PC.
Can I use the resizer with the LEE hand press?
Hey Richard Venneman Your in luck.... It looks like you can! thanks for watching!
Hey man I see the lock n load ap press there I'm really stuck between the Dillon 650 and the ap got any suggestions btw i just subbed love the vids
hey Todd Newsom! either desition you make between the Hornady and dillion are going to serve you well... maybe the things that come with it can make up your mind, accessories etc. you need a set of dies for each caliber and shellplates for your brass to ride in. that's the minimum. The press you got glimpse of on my bench is a Lee Loadmaster progressive press, They can look almost identical at a glance, or from a distance. you can't go wrong with the area your looking in. Very good stuff... thanks for watching Todd!
Excellent.
ur on the right track just got trim up the losseys crimp hard run through resizin dye bust them bulges out v duct um barrel them bang down range into water tank recover perfect bullet reload it pow boom goes the dynomo
Mr. Elivs, Plan to cast some of your 160 gr. supersonic blackout. I have checked with FS and Titan reloading and all they have is the 2 cavity moulds. Where did you purchase Lee CTL-312-160-2R?Appreciate your help.
Hey TheChero6.. I get a lot of stuff from Midway USA, Midsouth Shooting and Optic Planet. My Favorite Super is the Lee C 312-155-2R Seems to be my most accurate in my rifle.. The 160 is really good too though! Thanks for watching!
Awesome info learned a lot!
Have you looked into Hi-TeK Supercoat Bullet Coating yet? Maybe compare which is better than the other?
hey Robert Fugate... I dont think one is better than the other, Im getting almost perfect results. Easy to apply and no leading at about any velocity I want. The rest is up to sizing properly and bhn for what your trying to accomplish , expansion wise. Not to say im not interested in the hitek... just dont see a result changer. thanks for watching and contributing!
my 6 cavity mold from lee tgrows them from .358 to .360
+Miles Huggins hey Miles, some how missed your comment, Thats kinda strange. it sounds fine to me that it throws 358 some people like that. If its a problem im sure Lee will correct it for you.....
You da man Elvis.
IT's not to hard to size bullet coated with 0.006" more thickhness