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Follow up, A fox, coyote or stray dog dug this up and took it. Seems I will have to add additional security measures.

Great job! Thanks very much!!

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Hey Rob. I started as you do, one by one, I found the plyers sometimes also do spots whiteout paint. So I try surgical gloves and that did it. I use silicone mats for the tray, same one for 10 years. I started as a cheap way to get rifle bullets, since I'm in south America, and rifle bullets here are 150-175 US Dollars the box of 100. Then I try for 9mm since I was doing IPSC. I was using cast lee's .356 125 grains (I took the Grease lube out with a Dremel for easier release) with Lee alox. Less or no smoke and barrel clean as no fired after a training session of 200-250. So I came up with the method now. pre heat bullets, at 50 Celsius, tumbler for 10 min, I have a fine mesh kitchen straw, like 10 inches diameter, shake the excess, yo the tray and 10 min at 200 Celsius. yes, a few will get glue together, and some will have spot. For handgun I don't care, it is hard enough anyway. For rifle I do 2 coats, chances or getting a spot in the same place is almost 0. Great video keep it up!!!! Greetings from the south!!

I use 1/2 copper to roll without a taper. Works fine and also my ramrod with a cap . Cheap

Thanks for the story Rob. I've never used a decent crossbow, and I haven't hunted with my primitive bow and arrows for a long time. It is good that folks like you are keeping the activity alive. Very impressive penetration on that deer. I should find out more about crossbows. Best wishes....

Thanks for the tour of your interesting property. It seems you have plenty of space for experimenting with crops. I'm a bit envious of your pepper crop... we've never had great success growing peppers outdoors in our neighbourhood but they can produce reasonably well in our small glasshouse. The three sisters thing hasn't worked well for me. Best wishes...

Amen "Don't do" in wife's oven! the few bucks for an electric shop oven is worth PEACE and a happy wife. I did some granite countertop waste and tiles arranged properly in my shop oven to heat soak and help with hot or cold spots, just pre heat longer.

I take a piece of plywood a little larger than the pan I’m going to bake my bullets in. I then lay empty bullet trays in the pan I’m going to be baking in and arrange them to get the maximum amount of trays in the pan (The trays the solid squared off plastic ones that factory bullets come packed in when you buy a box of bullets. Very similar to the silicone one in your video, but only 50 squares for fifty rounds.). I even cut a few to make to most possible fit in the metal pan. Once I’ve figured out the arrangement of the plastic trays, I lay them out that same way on my piece of plywood. After powder coating my cast bullets, I place them with the nose/point facing down in the trays, with the base facing up. Once every square is full, I slip my upside down metal cooking pan over all of the trays (I use a silicone cooking mat in my tray). I then simply grasp the plywood and the metal cooking pan, firmly squeezing them together, and flip the entire set up right side up. I slip the plastic trays off of the cast bullets and all of them are evenly spaced, and standing upright like good little solders.

I have little pans like yours but with shorter sides. I have silicone in the bottom of the trays. Have been using the same silicone for over 5 years. I load at least 3000 45 ACP a year and many others. I do basically what you do. I have a long set of forceps' and I just pick up each bullet and sit on the silicone. for 30 Cal bullets I use the same silicone grid as you but I still set it in the pans before I put my bullets in. Its a slow walk to the toaster oven! Very nice video, thank you!

Nice. There is something primal about cooking on a barbeque. We have some fairly strict laws about lighting fires around where I live, but fortunately a barbeque is almost as good.

Help bullet key chain caliber 9mm MR.

I found that for pistol quality doesnt really matter. Even when they look garbage as long as its one piece and the base is good its all that matters. Mine are always full of little creases and the tip of the hollow point usually doesnt look good but they dont keyhole and will shoot the same. I dont add tin or antimony either its too expensive to add those and achieve the same result as using range scraps as it is

Another perspective for your consideration. Military training here nearly 30 years. If you have food, and someone else doesn't, they'll take it. If it gets so bad you don't have any food, you also won't have power, you won't have civility, and you certainly won't be able to arm against factions of starving people who can take you at from 200 yards with a common rifle with a scope. I also study history. You have no idea what people will do without the basic sustenance of life. If you really want to guard against a catastrophe, you should develop survival skills such as food procurement in the wild, shelter construction, clothing construction, fire building, trapping, hunting, and water procurement methods while staying on the move. It's very extensive and remember, you're guarding against millions of people who won't have any skill but to steal and a large percentage of hunters likely to turn killers. Now, growing your own food brings value for supplemental times of small shortages when people are getting most needs met and are simply begging for food and work. Just my opinion. I hate seeing our citizens who identify as "preppers" that really are doing nothing but wasting time and money. The good news is that there has always been folks like this throughout our history and our society has stood strong through so many harder times. Our time now is actually fairly prosperous. I have subbed, but I'm not the type to go along to get along. I tend to call it like I see it. For your garden, looks pretty good. Might need more watering via drip or at least some much. If you're in the deep south, well, it's just hard here.

Really like how, organized and meticulous you are. Safety is my number one priority when reloading. I am just now getting into 9mm reloading and your video has given me lots of confidence. I have been reloading for some time now, but has mainly been .38/.357, .44mag, .45 colt, .454 casull, 45-70, 460 & 500 S&W. Earlier today I ordered my molds 125 and 147 grains (LEE), dies, and starline brass. I too was wondering what mold you are using here as I own many MP brass molds so this gives me a reason to buy another. I will be shooting mine out of pistol caliber carbines, do you see any need to use +P brass? Also, how soft a lead are you casting with and do you worry about lead fowling even with the powder coating? Thank you in advance and for your dedication, it's greatly appreciated.

Hey Rob, on the first 5 what powder were you using? Thanks FVR

I have done that but I put them tip down, I want a clean powder coat on the base.

Fantastic! I will definitely keep learning and testing.

Newly subscribed! Fantastic work and information! Looking forward to the range results!!

A nice thing about .45 Colt bullets is they really don't need to expand 🙂Keep an eye on your NMA for cylinder end-shake. The Howell cylinders should be OK but those 1858 Remington Cap and Ball frames are only rated and proofed for black powder pressure curves and that is a pretty stout smokeless load 😲 Enjoyed your video very much ❤DJ

45 Colt is King

Great info here. Thank you for the information.

Good on you Rob. I will be interested to learn if your harder bullets give you a significant improvement in accuracy. I did a few basic experiments a while back and it seemed that harder bullets did mostly shoot a little better..... but the sample sizes were fairly small and I couldn't be bothered repeating the experiment.... plus I don't have a good supply of tin or antimony to add to the mix and I am reluctant to buy any. I haven't tried heat treating yet.... but I believe a softer bullet is a better hunting bullet so I have a conflict. I have a Lee push-through sizing die for my .357 magnum bullets. The only reason I got it was because some of my plain-base bullets were a little too big 'as cast' and I was having trouble pushing them into the cases. Initially I thought it best to push the bullets through the die base first.... so that it what I did. Just a few days ago I needed to size some more bullets, but this time I did the conventional thing and pushed them through nose first. I think that was a mistake. This pushed the 'extra' lead downwards and I found that some bullets had small fins of lead protruding unevenly below the base. They weren't huge, but I could easily see them with my naked eye. I took seven of the worst of them and shot a group of around three inches at 36 yards when normally I'd hope for a group of an inch or less. So I melted the whole batch down and cast some more.... and this time I sized them by pushing the base through first. Recently I shot a red deer with a 200 grain cast bullet travelling at around 980 fps from my .357. Very satisfying to make venison with a home load. Best wishes from NZ.

Hello Rob. Things seem to have become ridiculous. I guess a private company can make its own rules and we just have to look for alternatives. I post to both yoo toob and farce book and I suspect that somehow some my posts are somewhat hidden from general searches because what I have to say doesn't always fit the cult narrative. I'd love to dump farce book in particular, but my kids use it and it seems to be a reliable way to keep in touch and informed. I've cast a lot of bullets for my single-shot Bergara .357. I've tried maybe ten different moulds and after firing thousands of rounds I now have four favourite projectiles which can give me acceptable grouping... which is generally within 4 MOA. This standard of accuracy is appalling compared to what can be done with target .22LR factory loads or factory projectiles in my .223. I don't want to make special bullet alloys and I don't want to be bothered with measuring and weighing my bullets. I just want to make bullets from whatever scrap I find and know that they will work well enough for close-range hunting. I haven't used powder coating yet... Lee Alox enables me to lube a lot of bullets quickly and easily. I also use a home-brew lube made from beeswax and oil which works well enough. I mostly use subsonic loads to avoid making loud bangs. If I am hunting in a place where noise isn't a big problem, I will generally use full-powered loads in my .223. I think there is a swing back towards 'sensible' on our planet. I don't know if yoo toob will ever become more relaxed and realistic, but hopefully Rumble and other platforms will become more popular. Bullets are hunting tools. Mankind has hunted since the dawn of time. I wonder if a video about making flint arrowheads would be banned.

I got my first warning for teaching people how to 'make ammunition" for posting a video on common casting problems with lines in bullets and such. I think I am going to stop using YT and post on rumble. I don't make money her, yet I earn them money and the latter will stop going forward. This might even get removed. You can find me as archeryrob on Rumble. I am not tip toeing around their rules. I am a tinkerer and make things and will violate this over and over again. Best to get out before I waste more time here.

Out of curiosity, what sort of performance are the lead powder coated bullets for expansion, fragmenting and retention of total wiehgt are they to the standard copper jacketed hollow points? I have been casting and powder coating bullets for quite a while now, with great sucess and considering the purchase of a hollow point mold, but holding off due to it's expense compared to when the Lee molds were available. Anybody have prior experience of test in gell results? Thanks for the interesting, intriguing video.

Love the shirt, sir!

If you’re using sabots, then the sabot is what the rifling acts upon. If the bullet is molded concentricly ie no voids or contamination etc. and it fits snugly and squarely it should at least group to some degree. If you mean that the bullet is being loaded over the powder charge then yes it needs the base of the bullet to obturate, bump up, to fill the lands. The tabs as you call them look like the lead base has flowed into the slits or spaces between the sabot petals not into the lands. In summary if the sabots are the correct type recommend for the application and powder charge range for bullet weight and the bullet seats squarely and snugly in the sabot and the bullet is well cast it should shoot at least fair. I’ve shot all kinds of jacketed and cast bullets loaded in sabots out of my 50 and 54 M loaders with very good accuracy. Keep tinkering safely and good luck next season.

Nice Video Rob! ..Long time caster and reloader of multiple calibers and im just now researching powder coating bullets and your way looks to be the best way..any thoughts on silicon baking sheets?

I have personally seen and shot excellent groups with pure lead bullets and black powder. Lubed with beeswax and bacon grease, just like the old days. Barrels produced these days with shallow rifling for hard jacketed bullets will not shoot lead bullets the same accuracy. A custom made barrel with groove diameter the same as bullet diameter but with lands half as wide and twice as high will likely work very much better. LOSE the plastic coating and lube with the old traditional mixtures and you will get old traditional accuracy.

Thanks Rob. I do the same thing with my Freedom Seeds. I agree, they have to look as good as they shoot. Kind of an anal thing I guess that comes with age and doing machine work for so many years. Running them thru a Lee sizing die puts a finishing touch on them which guarantees a proper outer dimension. Keep up the good work...

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I take a 1.5 rolling paper put a ball in and hold it through the paper then put a crayon against it and roll it up like a joint , then twist the ball end and pull the crayon out and move to the next one then when they are all done drying, I measure my powder and pour it in and twist the powder end and squeeze the powder tight against the ball while twisting then dip the ball side in lube and put it in my cartridge holder

I dont understand the point of making paper cartridges. It takes more time and effort to make the cartridges and load them into the gun than it takes to simply load the powder and balls directly into the gun. Make that make sense.

Only 218 subscribers and yet you took the time to edit and give me an Amazon link to those awesome trays. You rock. Thanks

For the best quality you need to use a spray gun. Tumbling will never be perfect, but those wire racks are trash. For quick bulk bullets without those blotches I use Non-stick aluminum foil. I throw a bunch on there then the instant I pull them out, I toss them all in water to flash cool. I get no bare spots or high spots. They aren't pretty but the coating is as good as you can get for tumbling.

Most places that would be tweezers its crazy how we get so picky about some things when we get old especialy when it's a mental thing not cronalogical

I do the same thing you do, what hollow point mold are you using?

Nice! I use a 95 round flat mold from lee. 50/50 wheel weight and pure lead got decent expansion without a hollowpoint. Been thinking about sending my mold in to have it machined for hollowpoint

Try 50/50 wheel weights and pure lead!

Thanks for the video. Was wondering which mold you used for the hollow points. Thanks again very informative video.

Do you worry about the mil thickness of the powder coating? I would be a little paranoid.

Thanks for the video. I'm just getting into molding my own bullets, starting with .45 Auto with the MP 452-374 HP, plain base, 4 cavity BR mold. I'm going to be making a lot of hollow points. I picked up a Wal-Mart brand Toaster oven, some #5 plastic containers, and ordered a couple of different Eastwood Powder coats. I noticed you didn't do any damage to your bullets when you loaded them into the cases. I'm going to use a sizing kit if I have any problems with the size of the bullets after molding and powder coating them. Have you sized any of your powder coated bullets? Does sizing do any damage to the powder coat? I also watched a video where this guy explained why powder coated bullets don't need a gas check, which I thought was a pretty good video and I agree with the guy's reasoning. I'm somewhat of a perfectionist myself, which is why I've been watching powder coating videos. I saw one where the guy just threw all his bullets on a tray and stuck them into the oven without separating them at all. The end result looked like crap but he was fine with it. They probably worked fine but that's just not how I want mine to look. I take pride in what I do and I'd hate to show a bullet to someone and say "here's a bullet I molded and powder coated" and have them look at me like I'm holding a turd in my hand.

Head over to cast boolits forum. I use clear powder coating for my rifle bullets. Completely smooth and even coating even when tumble coating. I also stand all my cast bullets up with a needle nose. Lunch them in a separate container after the initial tumbling then stand them up. Clear and as smooth as glass. I get sub MOA with several calibers at 100 yards. My 336 , 35 Remington will all shoot in the same hole. I stand mine up on cheap Walmart wire racks. Silicone mats the powder coating pools at the bottom and makes collar around the bullet bases. I gas check my rifle bullets so the rack rash makes zero difference. I also sort within one grain of each other.

I will not run any powder coated bullets through my barrels. I only use Hy-Tek polymer coating.

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"Promo SM" 😀

I just found this and thank you for uploading it... I'm in the process of building a cool bot deer locker.. Your info was a big help.. I was thinking of using a semi-truck reefer unit, but am actually still in the thinking and researching phase.. I'll do some looking at your links and see what it looks like... Again thanks for your efforts Amigo..

Good stuff. Just started my paper cartridges. I will try this method.

Soak the paper in potassium nitrate. Now you'll have flash paper..quick ignition!