If You Hate Your FOXBODY... LISTEN UP!
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- Опубликовано: 5 мар 2023
- Sometimes life ain't fun! But Sh*t has to get done. It's time we talk about what we SHOULD BE DOING RATHER THAN WHAT WE WANT TO BE DOING..
#SHITBOX #FIXIT #DRIVEIT
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So true ....I would rather have a reliable running, air conditioned ,nice stereo and a working heater then 200 more hp ....makes driving these cars way more enjoyable ...spend money on the things that will make you drive it more.
Did ya put brake fluid in it 🤣😂😅 I had to ask before someone else did 🤣😂
That last bolt on the booster is always a fun one lol
This ☝️
You are sooo right Brother! Routine or preventative maintenance is absolutely essential to keeping these cars on the road in my opinion!
Things rarely work out perfectly on these older vehicles! But that’s ok because it keeps us busy with our hobby. Great video! 💯👊🏾
Thanks OG! It stings a little when it doesn’t go as planned but it’s still worth the effort
More true words have not been spoken. Fox the little things!
Awesome bro
Great video. I'm always learning from you. Thanks
Love how you just keep it real all the time. Keep it up
Those are some big slick tires!
Awesome video as always 👌
We can't ever quit! Great video Brew2l!
Love your content. Would love to see your cars in person at a show sometime. Keep up the hard work.
You ALMOST said “hoes be trifling” without laughing 😂😂
Almost….. 😅
Great video brew! Always a great reminder to stay on top of the little things. I've been there with the battery issue it's scary as hell when the starter runs away on you, I had the solenoid that was on mine when I bought it stick, then a brand new motorcraft one out of the box last about a month then it stuck on me. Switched to the SVE mini starter and haven't an issue since. That factory starter puts quite the load on that little solenoid.
Before replacing the break booster replace the vacuum line. I was on the verge of replacing the booster and MC, and my son and I were replacing all the vacuum lines and tree. After we finished we ran to the store and the breaks were like new. Always worth a check.
I feel you man. We are already hot as heck down here in Texas. But the work must go on.
That’s right 💪
One thing for sure I will not pull out in front of u when ur on the carbon fox 😂😂. Always a great video brew2l
Definitely don’t do that 😂🤦♂️
you know you fixin all of these little things remind me of getting into my buddys 3v and rippin the other day it just seemd like everything worked in there, so taking the time to do the little things feels so worth it with an older car and especally one of these puppies
I’m getting ready to put a new rack and pinion from LMR on mine as soon as I get a day off work.
😎✊💪
These hose be triflin' 😂😂
👀🫣
I recently replaced the driver door lock switch and actually, replaced window guides, new door card, armrest, and new trim. Along with me for seals and bottom trim. Amazing how it's like driving a new car now
Reliability and Safety are #1 on the list in My opinion ! Great content please keep it going , Thank You ! 🇺🇲 🇵🇷 🦊 👍
Just do what makes you happiest.
Old or new… black or blue.
Just be happy with what you spent money on.
Remember this,
Parts = money,
Money = hours,
Life = limited.
Every hour or dollar you spend on something is another amount of time you had to work to get that.
My current fox is the first car i havent rushed to get together and im taking care of a lot of the smaller stuff.
On you breaks I had to run 2 vacuum straight from the intake with a T right to the booster before mine was pulling enough vacuum for the booster to work correctly
The very top bolt that's a pain in the rear, I have used an extra long ratchet wrench. That helps a lot. I'm currently using an sn95 brake booster on my 88 lx.
Love the ride. Those SC gears whining is it!! And she will get down. Creature comforts are totally important, if you're not comfortable you want drive it.3👍
I get that top bolt with ease, swivel and long extention, lol
Well come do mine next time! 🤣
I'll be passing by your home town this coming Sunday with fam
Nice! Sadly I’ll be working this weekend 😏
Great video man gotta watch them hose they'll gotcha lol
🤣
I know exactly wym
You should check the vacuum at the booster.. higher lift cam will effect that. I’m sure you already know this you
In the background the 18s look like they'd look great on the fastback.
Just started my master cylinder and booster replacement and oh boy...
I feel ya… 🥵
The best thing I have done to be able to enjoy my car was replace the worn out hatch struts. No more using a stick to prop it open.
Vacuum pump😁
End of video I saw like a 15" wide Hoosier slick ?
Brakes that don't want to stop a car that likes to go fast can definitely make the car less fun to drive.
Have you thought about adding an aftermarket Vaccum Reservoir with a gauge to help.
Yes. I forgot to mention it in the video I guess.
🔔😎
Tighten your fittings?
Green tape. 😎
Boosted cars need vacuum pumps for the loss vacuum from engine.
You should consider venting the hood behind the radiator...I did that on my '93 Cobra when I was open tracking it (NASA HPDE) and it makes a huge difference in cooling, and my vent was relatively tiny compared to what the American Iron guys would run.
I had a pace car hood on my fox that I cut large vents into the steel portion just behind the radiator, and cut out the insides of the fiberglass bolt on cowl to make it functional and it made a huge difference in coolant and under hood temps
This weekend I pulled the console out of the 86, installed a new lower and upper shifter boot, cleaned and secured the console like it is supposed to be, and it seems like a totally different car. You are right about the small stuff, it makes a difference.
I wish I could send you a video of mine it just spins my brakes work good tho. Unless at a idle
Never mind, cam killed the brakes !
manual brakes might be an opition
I have question why terminator x when you had a mega squirt ???
Dont feel bad buddy. Even us Mopar guys use vice grips on our "overpriced" cars.
There are several other RUclipsrs who buy the cheapest and most clapped out foxbody that they can find. They then try to build it while investing minimal time, money and energy into it. One youtuber recently bought a $1000 foxbody and called it "The Sh*tbox fox. When I first clicked on this video, I thought it was going to be the pros and cons of doing a build like that vs building a nice fox...
I have a carpet set, headliner sitting in my basement for three years now because I can't put myself up to doing it. Ugh.
I feel ya 🥵
I've needed to change my water pump for over 5 years..just has a small leak..no heater core cause that job just sux.should change my trans fluid cause I have no idea if it's ever been changed..same with timming chain.dont know if that's ever been done.but I haven't done it.
Love the video brew. Couple questions on the brakes. Did you do cobra brakes on it? Did you check the valve on the booster to make sure it's good? Or did it come with a new one?
Stock style brakes and booster it came with a new valve. I’m just low on vacuum. I’m pretty sure that’s causing the issue
@@BREW2LFOXBODY what vaccum you running at idle? I have a similar issue with a good size cam on all new brake system, I have been looking at a vaccum canister to potentially help.
I have the same issue front brakes are doing all the work slotted rotors with hawk pads work great. I tried the vacuum canister didn't make a difference. Maximum Motorsports sales a drum cylinder they say it's supposed to help, I'm wondering if that would work?
Did you set the push rod depth correctly on the new brake booster
🔔😎
Brakes. Consider this. Boosters only reduce pedal foot pressure. If your jamming hard and the car wont stop then youve got glazed pads/ rotors. Try this trick.
Use a 36 grit disc turning slowly as you turn the rotor and just scratch both surfaces of the rotor. Don't take off metal just scratch it fairly well. Then put your pad halves in a vice and hit them with an 80 grit power board (body shop) to remove about 1/32" of pad material. This usually kills all the glaze and makes it like new stopping. Cheap. Works. 👍 Just an ancient trick I've used.
Did you do the booster pushrod adjustment? How are your lines and front calipers? Honestly, the booster should hold some vacuum with the check valve. If your pedal feels like hitting a block of wood after a pump or two, then I'd say you need a canister.
I didn’t adjust the rod. But the brakes are fine when it’s under 10 or more inches of vacuum. I’m sure it needs a vacuum booster
Maximum Motorsports has a good write up on the booster pushrod adjustment
Why the title change? LOL.. BTW you do the booster the hard way! Long ass extension and you can get all 4 bolts without even getting under the dash (other than to disconnect the booster arm from the brake pedal)
I was made aware you had a video with SHITBOX in the title so I changed it. I did use long extensions under the dash.
Hey is that 1 way brake check valve working correctly ? I know they can make it feel like the booster is doing nothing
Good job! Vacuum bleed the snot out of those brakes and it will be a world of difference
I tried. It’s going to need an external booster I’m pretty sure
@@BREW2LFOXBODY Good luck! There a lot of factors that affect vacuum too. Cam timing and ignition timing are a great start. I have ran some pretty big (overlap and duration) cams and had no issues with power brakes. You could always go old school manual brakes 😆
I just done away with my brake booster on my 93 hatch to go manual brakes so i could put a 460 under the hood and it wasnt fun one bit getting to those booster nuts .. but i learned a trick to it using a swivel .. it made it easier it still sucked tho .. i used factory master cylinder for the time being … there is no brake pedal travel and its like stepping on a brick … i have a 1979 mustang coupe and it has manual brakes from the factory … im thinking about using a master cylinder like whats on my coupe on my 93 and see how that works
79 are inches fittings, newer are metric.
@@hotrodray6802 that never crossed my mind … can a man run addapters on the master cylinder ??? Or how about flare my own lines ???
Here's been my winter list: Cam, timing chain, water pump, heads, carpet, door panels, power steering pump, 3-row radiator, Contour fans, dakota Retro dash, seat belts, door lock actuators, probably window motors while I got the doors gutted, speakers in the door and dash, re-looming the dash, clutch cable/adjuster/quadrant, replacement spoiler.....The list goes on. One enjoyable cascading mess after another. The end result will be a car I can hop in, turn the key and just let her rip. This is also the culmination of 20 years of things I've always wanted to get out of my own Fox. I started with an 87 4cyl convertible in high school, but was going to Navy "A" school in Chicago, and was not sure that she could make it through the mountains, so sadly I sold it to someone who later totaled it. Fast forward to 2019, and I got my hands on a relatively clean 89 5spd GT, and well....here we are.
That’s one hell of a list! 👀 but I agree it will make the car 100 times better when you’re done
@@BREW2LFOXBODY I've been accumulating the parts for a while. Finally decided to just take her off the road and throw everything at it. Just the door panels alone are gonna make me happy. My old ones have been held on by hopes and dreams for a while.
Vibrations/rattling really make the cars sound like trash. I have a nice looking 87GT T top car that has been molested pretty badly inside from the previous owner and it drives me nuts. I need to rip the dash and console out and start over. You probably need a vacuum booster. The carbon fox is looking good.
Not related to this but I have a question I had 2 88 lx hatchbacks back in the day and both had a huge sound system in it I remember upgrading the alternator in both but I don’t remember having to do the modifications like trimming the housing and running the wires etc. Is my memory of that much or could I be right and if so is this still an option
It may have been a convertible alternator. I remember those were a popular option back in the day.
Hey B. When you swapped from AOD to T5 did you use a stock pedal setup, or did you do the aftermarket pedal route for the clutch?
I used the stock pedal
Where in South Alabama are you? I'm in Mobile.
Dothan area
@BREW2L awesome, my best friend jyst built a house there.
Sounds like you have a little bit of idle surge / hunting…
Not that I’m aware of. You may be hearing the injector cut when I let of the throttle?
Pedal is hard or soft? 😊
For sure, nice job bud. Having crappy brakes just suck when they don't work right, no matter what it is.
You will figure it out, do you need to go to electric fans to take care of the higher heating issue?
I’m going to order a vacuum booster pump. The new fans are sitting on the shelf ✊
186* is not an issue.
215+ is an issue
@@hotrodray6802 watch the entire video, he mention the temp. creeping up at the end.
Volvo electric power steering swap???
Why would I hate my foxbody?
Did you adjust the rod in the booster that activates the master cylinder?
I didn’t
@@BREW2LFOXBODY the rods length is adjustable, you want it really really close or just barely touching the master cylinder piston without touching the pedal. If there's too much Freeplay it won't engage the piston all the way and won't fully activate the brakes. You might be able to just unbolt the mc and pull it off the booster far enough to reach in and twist it out half a turn. Bolt it back up and retest.
It’s not a rod length issue sadly. The cam doesn’t give us much vacuum to work with. While cruising when the vacuum is around 15-18 inches the brakes work great. But at idle it’s not very good.
@@BREW2LFOXBODYjust subscribed to ya Brother. Had a ‘94 5.0 for my 1st car...loved that car. Came across your page, and am hooked!💪🏽💯
Could you lobe separation on your cam be too small that it robs you of vacuum at idle? Causing you that stiff peddle. Just an idea.
I believe that’s the issue. The car only makes around 7 inches of vacuum at idle
@@BREW2LFOXBODY yea should be at 20 in/lb or more. I normally see this issue with cams with a 110 or lower lobe separation. Your going to need a vacuum canister hiding behind the fender. Maybe near the cruise control motor.
@@frogman7874 sadly that’s the only real world option. So that’s the plan 😞
@@BREW2LFOXBODY
If your auxillary vacuum can charges when you coast down then you should have enough for 2 stops easily. Or add an electric vacuum pump.
completely disagree with you on this one brother. loose or not tight battery cables can lead to all types of bugs and problems. Quick solution is to buy a $7 quick disconnect battery fitting where you can remove the cable easily and still have a secure connection.
I still stand by what I said in the video. I agree with you on the quick disconnect though if you have one. but I have never had one issue from a hand tight cables.
Sure is easier and quicker to just twist a knob 1 turn to kill the power.
I've needed it 2x. 👍👍
Wire the computer memory direct so the computer doesn't lose it's soft memory when you disconnect.
My 91 has a shaky little 2.3 turbo and the rear metal brake line or fuel line rattles when i first start the car in the mornings. Lol
Otherwise it wont make noise.
Mr Satan criticized for his reee reee