Hope you enjoyed today's video was enjoyable working on the WLTOYS 144001 and if you are thinking of getting one these optional maintenance tasks are a must do! I see why everyone loves them they are great fun. Be sure to smash that like and subscribe button and feel free to drop a comment below! Cheers guys see you on the next one! 🔥👍😁
Even though it`s only two fixed positions, I like that toe adjustment, nice and simple and you don`t have to worry about them being symmetrical, novel approach, and suited for beginners.
I use all the mods you have shown on the 144001 for some time now, lowering the chassis with the droop screws is essential when doing speed runs. I set the arms horizontal with no droop, also going further with the fronts so as to lower the front of the chassis more than the rear of the chassis. Also look at taking out the toe out on the fronts & set more parallel for speed runs.
Nice Video. I am getting the Car for Christmas. Nice Trick with the screw. You can lower the whole Car for better speedruns. I am doing a brushless Conversion too for the near future. 😃 ✌️
Thanks for the video. I noticed the suspension doesn't rebound anymore in your video. The car dampens but just stays low. Also a thought but when you filled your shocks with oil, shouldn't you try to get any trapped air out before you tighten the cap on? I'm a newb so your thoughts on this appreciated.
He should. Quadify rc shows how to do it. Take of the springs first, with the cap not fully done up you can bleed off the excess, then check there's no preload or that the shocks stay fully compressed. I never had any issues out of the box, doesn't mean it's not correct. All shocks feel fine, if I take of all the springs, only one will fully compress without extra force.
Got mine the weekend,already thinking of a brushless conversion,looking at the 540racestar motor with 60A ESC now what battery would be best to run do you think? Thanks
All good solid tips these dude.done all of them makes for a better buggy I agree with the 3 essentials aswell or should be must do before using.ive converted to brushless.just started my own little channel a week ago.ive also done the full metal upgrade and metal diff housings as the 1st time out I shattered mine.love the channel keep it up buddy
I'm glad i had that impact and got you back into RC! Usually under 2 weeks to the UK it used to be painful the wait but im so used to it now it just feels normal! No taxes yet thankfully!
@@beyondRC oh that’s not too bad, I might try it out next time. I just placed an order for the w144001, brushless conversion and all the supporting accessories. I might try order the 1240018 of banggood as a bash around chassis.
@@rotty2309 they are great brushless and very quick as they are light! The 124018 is on my wishlist i have the 124019 on the way from banggood and will be doing a lot of content on that as well! THanks!
@@Aarons14bugs At least half the shaft should come out on it's own without the spring. The real key is to get the same amount of rebound on each shock. A perfect build would allow you to depress the shaft all the way with the last quarter inch being hard to push in. At the same time the shaft should full extend on it's own without the spring very slowly. It takes time to get shock building down perfectly. Work at getting half rebound first and practice until you get more perfect builds.
@@beyondRC yes bro all good thanks.. I hope you're well also. I'm now about to go and do some of your mods to my buggy haha especially the rear toe adjustment.. thankyou
Isn't 800cSt shock oil a bit too thick though? 800cSt = 60wt, I know that QuadIfyRc used 60wt, but I'm asking on Reddit and most people agree that 60wt is too heavy, one person said the max I should go is 50wt. The stock oil is around 30-40wt, I'm probably going for 45wt. Doesn't 60wt make the car squat down lower, and make the rebound (how fast the shock springs back) slower?
60wt helps to account for the extra weight at the back as the big heavy brushed motor makes the car rear heavy and sometimes bottom out on jumps. People have many different opinions on what's right just do what's right for you man. 60wt worked just fine for me and my needs 👍👍
beyondRC yeah it’s getting there slowly but surely I have a video planned for next week and I have a pic up on insta of the two Tamiyas and the tank to see which people wanna see on the channel for the next running video
This is a common problem on these and i think on the new 124019's they have used some sort of thermal pad/paste which helps transfer heat to the aluminum chassis to help dissipate heat. But on the 144001 has always been a known issue. I cant say i have a fix as not long after getting mine i converted to brushless and never looked back. Have covered the conversion on my channel so be sure to check that out.
@@satkozlatna Artik telefon sarj aleti kullaniyorum. Telefon sarj aletini prize takiyorum, onada araba ile gelen kabloyu takiyorum. (Dolunca kirmizi isik sönüyor) Ilk baslarda bilgisayarda dolduruyorum, cok zaman aliyordu. Simdi prize takinca, 4 saat sürüyor.
Hi, do you know any full metal upgrade set that fit perfectly on the Wltoys 144001? Cause i've heard that in most of them there are parts that doesnt fit properly.
if anything stick with plastic, its cheaper less hassle and lighter. The metal upgrades look great but arent that effective. Plastic can stretch a little whereas metal can't. Cheers
Stick with plastic!!! More durable. Cheap aluminum bends while plastic bounces back a bit. Also plastic is much lighter which makes handling and runtime better. In some spots, metal is good (chassis, shock towers, maybe c hubs, a arm holders etc) but all metal is bad!
@@eriktower1648 No, non va bene usare wd40 se non altro usare un po 'di grasso per automobili economico nel differenziale, idealmente grasso al litio per alte temperature. Grazie
I can give you one recommendation. Don't buy into the hype. Get a Tacon Soar change the connector to deans program the ESC for Lipo and be done with it.
Hope you enjoyed today's video was enjoyable working on the WLTOYS 144001 and if you are thinking of getting one these optional maintenance tasks are a must do! I see why everyone loves them they are great fun. Be sure to smash that like and subscribe button and feel free to drop a comment below! Cheers guys see you on the next one! 🔥👍😁
Even though it`s only two fixed positions, I like that toe adjustment, nice and simple and you don`t have to worry about them being symmetrical, novel approach, and suited for beginners.
I use all the mods you have shown on the 144001 for some time now, lowering the chassis with the droop screws is essential when doing speed runs. I set the arms horizontal with no droop, also going further with the fronts so as to lower the front of the chassis more than the rear of the chassis. Also look at taking out the toe out on the fronts & set more parallel for speed runs.
Really good explained, I totally will do the "droop fix" on mine. Thx for you awesome videos!
Really makes a difference! Thank you! :)
Nice little tweek to your car, i just did the tow in on the rear thanks for that
It will really make a difference and best of all its free!
I like the way you say those numbers. Like "ziro ziro Wann.."
Nice Video. I am getting the Car for Christmas. Nice Trick with the screw. You can lower the whole Car for better speedruns. I am doing a brushless Conversion too for the near future. 😃 ✌️
I mounted the rear wing lower. Flipped the mounts upside down
Thanks for the video. I noticed the suspension doesn't rebound anymore in your video. The car dampens but just stays low. Also a thought but when you filled your shocks with oil, shouldn't you try to get any trapped air out before you tighten the cap on? I'm a newb so your thoughts on this appreciated.
never had any issues. Cheers :)
He should. Quadify rc shows how to do it.
Take of the springs first, with the cap not fully done up you can bleed off the excess, then check there's no preload or that the shocks stay fully compressed.
I never had any issues out of the box, doesn't mean it's not correct. All shocks feel fine, if I take of all the springs, only one will fully compress without extra force.
There is a guy on ebay selling heavier duty springs ,i got some and they do help! Oil is my next investment!
Got mine the weekend,already thinking of a brushless conversion,looking at the 540racestar motor with 60A ESC now what battery would be best to run do you think?
Thanks
All good solid tips these dude.done all of them makes for a better buggy I agree with the 3 essentials aswell or should be must do before using.ive converted to brushless.just started my own little channel a week ago.ive also done the full metal upgrade and metal diff housings as the 1st time out I shattered mine.love the channel keep it up buddy
Thank you and I'm glad you enjoyed the video! I will have to check out your channel!
@@beyondRC cheers appreciate that.ive done 50 weight oil all round and upgraded the springs to stiffer
Everything else I read the toe out at the front and the toe in at the back makes it more stable.
New subscriber because I have purchase 144001 ,I have question ❓ can we washed it with water or do you have cleaning toturial on 144001😊
90w is sold cheap because it's diff fluid for cars, it's also winterized.
The ifixit driver set is pretty awesome
I've also done a video of how to adapt the upgraded metal arms to allow you to have the ability to adjust the rears as the front comes with the holes
amazing stuff will check that video out too!
Thanks for all the very useful tips....😊
My pleasure 😊
Hi you know this oil that you have mentioned as I’m new to all this and someone on Facebook goes it’s too strong for shockers?
has been working perfectly fine for months now? :)
Great videos, you got me back into rc cars! How do you find the delivery time from banggood? Is there taxes to pay on shipping to the uk?
I'm glad i had that impact and got you back into RC! Usually under 2 weeks to the UK it used to be painful the wait but im so used to it now it just feels normal! No taxes yet thankfully!
@@beyondRC oh that’s not too bad, I might try it out next time. I just placed an order for the w144001, brushless conversion and all the supporting accessories. I might try order the 1240018 of banggood as a bash around chassis.
@@rotty2309 they are great brushless and very quick as they are light! The 124018 is on my wishlist i have the 124019 on the way from banggood and will be doing a lot of content on that as well! THanks!
You should check the rebound of your shocks without the springs.
What kind of rebound are we looking for? Sorry, I'm new to rc cars.
@@Aarons14bugs At least half the shaft should come out on it's own without the spring. The real key is to get the same amount of rebound on each shock. A perfect build would allow you to depress the shaft all the way with the last quarter inch being hard to push in. At the same time the shaft should full extend on it's own without the spring very slowly. It takes time to get shock building down perfectly. Work at getting half rebound first and practice until you get more perfect builds.
Another great video bro.. very well done!!
Thanks bro! Appreciate that! Hope your good!
@@beyondRC yes bro all good thanks.. I hope you're well also.
I'm now about to go and do some of your mods to my buggy haha especially the rear toe adjustment.. thankyou
No worries will be worthwhile 😏👍
Isn't 800cSt shock oil a bit too thick though? 800cSt = 60wt, I know that QuadIfyRc used 60wt, but I'm asking on Reddit and most people agree that 60wt is too heavy, one person said the max I should go is 50wt. The stock oil is around 30-40wt, I'm probably going for 45wt. Doesn't 60wt make the car squat down lower, and make the rebound (how fast the shock springs back) slower?
60wt helps to account for the extra weight at the back as the big heavy brushed motor makes the car rear heavy and sometimes bottom out on jumps. People have many different opinions on what's right just do what's right for you man. 60wt worked just fine for me and my needs 👍👍
@beyondRC Ok, thanks. I'm probably going with 35-45wt shock oil, about the same or just a little bit thicker than stock.
Great info! Thanks for showing and sharing!
No worries! Glad you enjoyed :)
Nice one! Good upgrades.
Cheers mate! Just a few little tips to get the best from these buggies 😎
I think the 60W oil is too thick? As it is not coming back as it should.
muy buen video. voy a utilizar tus consejos para mi nuevo proyecto. very good tutorial . thanks.
im glad you enjoyed the video!
Is there a tip to improve the range?
wholly crap i thought my LiPos were done. Carry on!
😂😆
Good little tips. 👍
Cheers Andy! Glad you enjoyed mate and the brushless setup will be along soon! 😎😏
HI, i bought two 144001 a few weeks ago. Already i have burned both motors running on short grass. Is this normal and what can i do?
they are geared quite high so on grass a lot of strain is put on the motor!
Take a look at The RC Master latest vid on his 144001 with brushless conversion, he just broke the 100 mph on 3s.
i will check that out! this is my plan!! Finding somewhere i can reach that speed will be difficult on its own!
where i can buy the silicone oil 800 ?
will the 800cst still be good for bashing offroad?
Great video mate 👍 keep up the amazing work 😁
Thanks, will do! Good to see your channel coming along as well!
beyondRC yeah it’s getting there slowly but surely I have a video planned for next week and I have a pic up on insta of the two Tamiyas and the tank to see which people wanna see on the channel for the next running video
What is the difference between 800, 900 1000 cst and which one you recommend for this rc car
different weights of oil. i would say 800 is about 60wt and ideal for this but i run 30wt on front and 60wt on rear now
@@beyondRC so is 900 cst good for both sides or is 800 that good
@@beyondRC sir, for rear shock you used 800 shock oil, do you recommend for front shock too? or we can use same oil but not full level put?
Have done the recommended mods but im having an issue with the motor and esc getting hot . Any thoughts? Or have you had the same issue
This is a common problem on these and i think on the new 124019's they have used some sort of thermal pad/paste which helps transfer heat to the aluminum chassis to help dissipate heat. But on the 144001 has always been a known issue. I cant say i have a fix as not long after getting mine i converted to brushless and never looked back. Have covered the conversion on my channel so be sure to check that out.
Vaikka takaosan nipat kääntää toisinpäin, silti siihen jää pari milliä aurausta.
Have the same car. How long do I have to charge the 2200 mah Lipo on the computer (USB) using the battery charger supplied?
not sure on exact figure but would say over an hour?
I don't know either. I said that the lipo exploded :) I have driven 4 so far, each time I loaded it on the computer for 2.5 hours ...@@beyondRC
@@muromango4415 normally should take more than 4 hours, but if the battery is which comes with the car is normal.. it’s not full capacity
@@satkozlatna Artik telefon sarj aleti kullaniyorum. Telefon sarj aletini prize takiyorum, onada araba ile gelen kabloyu takiyorum. (Dolunca kirmizi isik sönüyor) Ilk baslarda bilgisayarda dolduruyorum, cok zaman aliyordu. Simdi prize takinca, 4 saat sürüyor.
Hi, do you know any full metal upgrade set that fit perfectly on the Wltoys 144001? Cause i've heard that in most of them there are parts that doesnt fit properly.
if anything stick with plastic, its cheaper less hassle and lighter. The metal upgrades look great but arent that effective. Plastic can stretch a little whereas metal can't. Cheers
Stick with plastic!!! More durable. Cheap aluminum bends while plastic bounces back a bit. Also plastic is much lighter which makes handling and runtime better. In some spots, metal is good (chassis, shock towers, maybe c hubs, a arm holders etc) but all metal is bad!
if you want to install aluminum for show and not riding it's great. but if you want to ride it then get plastic for sure
Will you be converting to brushless?
yes! and i have parts on order just a matter of time! This thing will be crazy fast brushless!
Can I use lipo 3s battery in this model?
No the ESC is rated to 2s only but some have ran 3s on it and it works sometimes but be carful it may catch fire!!
What cSt oil should be used in the front suspension? In case it come with some missing, already ordered 800cSt for the rear and grease for the diff.
350cst 👍👍
@@beyondRC cant I use 800 or 600cSt for both front and rear?
@@BesNewFails 50 on all 4 can you
cool !
Bel video, scusami solo olio siliconico? Oppure ok olio lubrificante?
idealmente un po 'di olio per ammortizzatori adeguato farà il lavoro migliore
@@beyondRC grazie mille...
Per il differenziale va bene WD 40 grasso spray?
@@eriktower1648 No, non va bene usare wd40 se non altro usare un po 'di grasso per automobili economico nel differenziale, idealmente grasso al litio per alte temperature. Grazie
Ok, ma è WD Grasso catena spray...
@@beyondRC this..WD-40 39788/46 Grasso Catena Moto
I can give you one recommendation. Don't buy into the hype. Get a Tacon Soar change the connector to deans program the ESC for Lipo and be done with it.
Good veido
Cheers mate 👍
@@beyondRC I've seen in eBay a set of stiffer shock springs. What do you think? Would it help when bashing on skate parks. Cheers
I think that's a great idea! 😎