How to Remove and Replace an AC Compressor - High Detail
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- How replace an ac a/c compressor, how to add pag oil, how to add refrigerant oil, how to fix an a/c system, how to find and fix problems with your ac compressor, ac compressor replacement procedure, pag 46, pag 100, pag 150, how to find an ac leak, how to replace an ac compressor clutch and bearing, how a/c systems work, how to replace an ac receiver drier, how to diagnose problems with your cars ac system.
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Aye if u need to drain your refrigerant just go to your local valvoline. They do it for free (youre welcome)
Man, you're the only one who explained the checking/adding oil on a an a/c compressor on youtube.
This is the best AC compressor video I've found so far. I just did the compressor and condenser on my Mazda 6. Everything went just as the video described. Thanks
This is good work and a great teaching tool... One thing though...I
think that "ounces" refers to FLUID ounces, not ounces of weight. I'm
just sayin'.....
You are correct - I noticed the same thing. Interestingly, the conversion from grams to ounces is .0353, which is almost the same as the conversion from cc to fluid ounces, which is .0338. Considering that 1 gram of water has a volume of 1 cc, he's only off by about 10% since the specific gravity of oil is about 90% the SG of water. He actually adds about 160 cc which weighs about 5 ounces.
I'm replacing my entire AC. There was a leak, according to last owner, and the clutch seized....and the condenser was punctured...so, looks like an entire system replace. Advance Auto has all parts, even flush and freon and condensor/compressor on sale for $387 for everything, and then gives you a $50 gift card rebate so it ends up being about $350 to replace the system. Can't pass that up! This has been very helpful. Thank you!
Becky Blanton You could’ve just got a bypass pulley for your AC compressor it’s only 45 bucks
@@nibroc1356 And do without the A/C? Why would she want to do that?
👍🏻
A fluid ounce (abbreviated as fl. oz.) is used to measure fluids while an ounce (abbreviated as oz.) is for dry measurements. This gives us the idea that a fluid ounce is a measurement of volume while the other is a measurement of weight. There is a slight difference with Compressor Oil.
Great video!! Thanks for doing it in 1080p! Only neg thing is like Jason said... volume is the amount of space the oil occupies,
weight is the force exerted on an object due to gravity. The sticker on the car was in CC's for a reason... because its a common unit of volume... Think about it like this- If I take 120cc or mL of liquid mercury which can be converted to 4 fluid oz and measure it in a 1/2 cup container then do the same for water and place them individually on a scale do you think they'll both weigh 0.25 lb? Answer: No of course not because Mercury has a much heavier molar mass than does water therefore it will weigh more.
The specific gravity of water is 1 making fluid ounces and dry ounces equal. The specific gravity of pag oil is .985 (almost 1) so the technical headache of the difference between dry ounces(weight) and fluid ounces(volume) is didactic in this instance. It is only an auto not going to the moon.
Frank Dielii good info thanks.
VERY helpful. Lots of little things I would have missed. Thank you!
ok next i will eat a pizza... next i will like your video and next i will subscribe...
next I will go to the bathroom....
Best video on RUclips on this subject, very clear and concise, still will have someone else do mine but your video made it less daunting and gave me some good information about O-Rings, I would not have asked my mechanic to do that if I didn't run across your video, I'm now subscribed to this channel.
Very helpful O'Reilly sold it to me and couldn't tell me been searching web for hours very appreciated
Hi , Thanks for great videos
I am replacing all my Ac components on VW Passat 2002 (AZM Engine 2.0). Condenser, Evaporator, Drier, orifice, Hoses and compressor .
250ml is total oil requirement for my whole system as per VW manual and system is R134a.
My question is about adding oil after complete flush or complete new components. I have two choices:-
1. Calculate oil came with new compressor (say for example it had 200ml). Pour back 200 in new compressor and where shall I add the rest?
Is it condenser or drier or add with new compressor itself?
2. Other option as Manual says distribute oil - 50% Compressor, 10% condenser, 10% suction pipe, 20% Evaporator & 10% Drier.
Confusion is adding OIL to “Suction pipe” - which flows directly to compressor LP port and into compressor. So what’s point?
If Option 1 can be right then I am happy as adding 250ml direct through compressor drain plug and rotate 5 times clutch and charge system.
Also I understand OIL is only for compressor lubrication and nothing else.
Hope you can get me the right answer which can help others too.
Looking for video for 2016 Lincoln MKC ac compressor replacement????????????????
Thank you so much for the very detailed video and especially for covering how to determine the amount of Pag Oil to put in and where!
How to go about the compressor, which has a low pressure port on the bottom of its cylinder, on the side opposite to the clutch side? So the Suction hole is just at the center of that plane. The High port is approximately in the same position like in the compressor shown in this film @0:22. So the Low and High ports are not on the same plane. The hole for Low P port doesn't have any oil around. Should I still use it to fill the compressor and then plugged it in before install? I removed that compressor and now need to clean properly and fill in w/new PAG 100, but in doubts about the procedure, since the shape is different fm/the compressors shown here and in all other films on the subject I saw. Thank you for your film again.
Great info! I'll be changing my compressor and condenser on my 2006 scion TC soon. I'll be going almost completely off of this to get the job done. I'll be measuring my refrigerant oil differently though. Thanks for the help!
christian wiskoski np, let us know how it goes and gl. cheers
About the oil.. denso has a video stating to balance the oil amount if only changing the compressor.. to my understanding other components still contain the Initial oil charge. That the oil is not lost during evacuation. I'm just a back yard mechanic / hobbyist. If someone can shed some light on this, that would be great. Their is so many questions I have to be answered. I need to change my compressor, but don't want to over fill the system.
Thank you for being detailed man you taught me alot with the video.
The oil is measured by fluid ounces not weight ounces. While refrigerant measurement is by weight.
Ummm, you do know that fluid ounces, and weight ounces are two different things, right?
1 ml = 1 gram !!! Lots of modern AC recovery machines uses the weight of the PAG oil to be injected !! Depends what system or method a person is using. Usually, after the system's refrigerant and oil has been recovered into the machine, you empty out the oil in the NEW compressor and refill with the manufacturer's specified amount !!
Lew, when you get a new compressor(not an old remanned one, but brand new, like form GPD or somewhere) dont they want you to drain the factory oil from it, and do it from the "drain plug"? Then, refill, like you said, with some different oil, and back into the same drain plug port? Not fill from line ports? Just curious what you think about "conditioning" or prepping a new compressor prior to a complete system rebuild(minus evaporator). Thx! Btw, 2000 Chrysler sebring conv Sanden type unit.
Great video. It's easy to do, just harder to get to the compressor in some cars. (Looking at you, MINI/BMW)
Hello R&R...how about a 2016 Mitsubishi Outlander that stops blowing cold air when I'm stopped at a red light or stop and go traffic??? Once I get going, it starts blowing cold air again. REALLY annoying! I have to put it in neutral and rev up the engine when I'm stopped, or I will bake. Freon HAS been properly vacuum and recharged...Any suggestions? Thanks!
Can I replace the compressor with the ac gas in the pipes?
Yeah but your supposed to have it safely removed first at a mechanic shop
Question- Once the new compressor is installed, do you just charge the system with 134 Freon that you can buy at autozone?
Well yeah and no...Its a certain amount of "PAG" oil you have to add 1st.....The autozone R134 only has a little PAG oil....Not enuff for the whole system...Remember, The freon evaporates, but, the oil stays behind when you just do a recharge....Whole system redo , you gota add the right amount of PAG oil....Otherwise...Your new compressor will just burn up...Now, you gota do this all over again and cost even more money.....Chris Fixx has a great vid on recharging the whole system...and , if I remember right....You can get the gauges on loan from Auto Zone...Happy Huntin'.....
@ 8:36 , Personally, i'd have used either a double end capped PAG or 525 SUS mineral oil (the one used for R-12) to lubricate the o-rings, or even the Nylog. The oil you used doesn't state anywhere on its container that it's double end capped, so i assume it's a single end capped PAG. Reason is, single end capped PAG oil is hygroscopic, just like Ester. Double end capped PAG, mineral and Nylog aren't.
Only ways to remove any oil are to replace parts, recover the refrigerant fast enough or flush parts. Vacuum isn't going to affect oil quantity in any way. There's no more refrigerant that can carry the oil with it, while you vacuum. There isn't any other agent that can dissolve it either. Also, PAG and POE oils are polar. They cling to the metal. That's why workshop manuals tell you to add a certain amount of oil after replacing an AC part, without even bothering to drain and measure.
A certain amount of oil resides in every component, since PAG and POE oils are polar and cling to the metal, covering anything in a thick oil film. Workshop manuals tell you to add a certain amount of oil when you replace any component, including the dryer. The safest thing period is to flush the whole system and add the whole oil charge into the new compressor. Another relatively safe way, when you're not dealing with a seized compressor, is to remove the old compressor, drain it of any oil and refill it with the same amount of oil that you drained, plus half a fluid oz to compensate for anything that clinged to the metal inside the compressor and you couldn't drain, plus any oil that came out while recovering the refrigerant, and plus any other oil amount that the workshop manual asks you to add for any other component you replaced together with the compressor.
fudge. i didn't swap out the two green seals. . . I was hoping they came pro- bono with the new a/c.
@6:27 It is very good and detailed film on changing a compressor, so many tips, thank you very much. If I need to replace the oil fm the compressor and not sure what exactly oil is there, can I flush it out? Is it possible? With the special flush liquid, like what we use to flush the evaporator e. g. The car AC (it is 2001 Saturn SL2) works on PAG oil (that is what Shop Manual says, they don't specify which PAG of 3 types). PAG oil comes in 3 types 46, 100, 150. As far as I understand you can use any, but you can't mix them. The car was in the dealer shop like 10 years ago, and they replaced the compressor 3 times, but shortly after AC stopped working anyway. I think that is bcs they didn't replaced the Condenser, I've read that the clogged Condenser can cause the Compressor to fail. I'm replacing everything besides the Evaporator (which I will flush of course) I think. Or if so little oil is left after proper draining it doesn't matter what PAG was there? Thank you again.
Thank you for very informative video with step by step procedures. I am wondering when the Toyota say 5.7 oz of PAG 46 oil for my A/C compressor, it is for the whole system (AC lines, condenser, evaporator) or just for compressor. I searched online, and it is still confusing me because some said only put the amount of oil comes out of old A/C compressor to the new one. Please help to clarify it.
Dude remind me of Josh from Drake and Josh show on Nickelodeon. Sorry..joking. This is wat i needed. I have to get mine replaced. My mechanic though is slackin on givin me a price range. I called up a dealer and of course their price was ridiculously high. Wat r the price ranges for jus the AC compressor?
nastassia jefferson Google a place like O'Reilly auto parts. You can enter your year, make , and model on their page and find your compressor. They generally run on the north side of 200 bucks. I'd strongly recommend also replacing the condenser. If the condensor clogs, that's usually what ruins the compressor. You don't want a bad condenser to ruin your new compressor, do you? You can have the condenser tested first, but it doesn't help to try flushing it. If it's clogged, then it's clogged for good. Don't let some fool try to tell you otherwise.The A/C system has to be vacuum-evacuated of all the old coolant before it's safe to remove the compressor. Get the evacuating done at a shop with the right equipment. A few home mechanics have sufficient equipment to do this, but they really have to know what they're doing. In other words, don't let some idiot try doing it.
randolph patterson do you advise to flush the system once the compressor is removed? I know i'll need a shop for this because i do not have an air compressor, but everything else i believe i can handle. The idea would be to have a shop allow me to do the work there because the drive belt would have been off... in ur experience is this something that shops allow?
To answer the tail end question first, the answer would be no. I don't know of any shop (unless a family, friends or employers) that would allow you to use their tools and space. Not for free anyway. And even with a price, probably not. Too many liability issues. As for flushing the system, As Randolph stated, you are best off to replace the condenser all together and ditch the old one and flush the other parts and here's why: A compressor contains teflon rings. When these compressors fail the rings then shatter apart and get carried through the system with the refrigerant. And when it gets stuck throughout your system, it's nasty. Teflon is really dirty sticky stuff that will impede any and all passages it cannot overcome. And if we look at our refrigerant flow direction we can see that all those shavings are headed right to your condenser. The passages in these condensers are only getting smaller and smaller as the years go by. JUNK IT! Not worth the hassle to keep. Next is the Orifice/metering device/piston (whatever you wanna call it) or txv. The orifice will surely be restricted beyond all recognition and will need to be replaced. If it's a txv instead, I would change that most certainly. Again, teflon is nasty stuff. I would flush any other components the best I could BEFORE installing said metering device. This flushing will rid any other debri trash or oil that may still be present in your system. GET OUT AS MUCH AS YOU CAN. It's already apart. Then once the system is fully reassembled, you will need to pull a vacuum. This is something that alot of novice DIYers skip and wonder why their new compressor just burned out. To "pull a vacuum" is meant to remove the outside air that has contaminated the system during repair. Air contains moisture. Refrigerant and moisture don't get along. And if they do get along, their relationship is very harsh and toxic. The acids will surely destroy your system. By pulling a vacuum we eliminate this problem. A vacuum of about 500 microns is sufficient. Once achieved should be monitored for about 5-10 minutes to check for vacuum loss due to leaks. If none, move on. The vacuum SHOULD be broken with dry nitrogen and the evacuation process should continue 2 more times to ensure contaminates have been removed. Once in the final vacuum, you will then break that vacuum with your refrigerant and charge to OEM specs.
This is a brief and general practice of refrigeration repair and is in NO means a substitute for actual case scenario. Many factors need to be taken in account. This field is both fascinating and if persued can be a good money maker, even as a side hustle. As with anything RESEARCH, RESEARCH, RESEARCH! Don't try attempting something unless you have an accurate understanding. Learn from those who made the mistakes so you don't have to.
Hope this helps you or anyone else who had the patience. Any questions? Just holler!
@@guitargeorge1874 that was the most professional info I have heard on this pump replace issue. I am trying to do this replace because my clutch went to lunch and it is a 1997 ford explorer so I figured it would be best to replace compressor, but now I see you say that I should replace the condenser, so I'm ok with that but, now have doubts I can do it at all even with back yard mechanics credentials. I have no gauges or other things to vacuum with. thanks for the instruction! Not sure what im gonna do now.
I bought a new compressor , it say that contains 8oz of oil and need to add more for vehicles equipped with rear AC , my question is how much more ?
Prob about the same as in the front. Like if 5 oz in system w out a rear, add 5 more with rear. Find out where to add the pag before pouring it all in only ONE spot! *Good Luck*
What happens if it isn't vaccummed assuming it just leaks a fuckton?
Where can I find the o-rings ? That you repaced
Hi, can you tell me if this is my whole compressor or just the clutch??
ruclips.net/video/CcuJcJF8G2Q/видео.html
When you remove the old compressor, what ever oil comes out is the same you putting in the new compressor
Guys dont evacuate refridegerant to the atmosphere have it reclaimed properly. R12 or r134a are horrible for the atmosphere and its a huge fine. Otherwise mate great diy. Just want people to know how harmful the refridgerant and dessicants are.
I really don’t like the fact that you don’t say specific makes and models and no they’re not the same some cars are quite different based on the amount of junk in the way that you have to move to get to it so be specific don’t generalize all cars I’ve worked on cars for 30 years they’re similar but they’re not the same some cars nowadays you can’t even see the compressors and alternators cause they’re so buried
Hey I've got a real quick question for you after a person has put oil in the compressor when you start charging the AC up would you still have to put an oil through the lines so much at a time while you're charging the AC
very helpful VIDEO , please tell me I have Toyota RAV4 2010 can I use another AC compressor from deferent car like BMW or Ford . or it must be the same as I take it out.
paperwork on my new GM 3.1 litre ac compressor said it came with 3oz of pag oil and the guy at O Reily parts store said they didn't....low and behold the compressor couldn't take the whole 8oz bottle even after turning clutch to fill and setting on the clutch side up for 3 minutes only took a few more drops
I had nowhere else to ask this, and can not find anyone that has helped. I have a 1999 Buick Park Avenue. My A/C stopped blowin out of vents. Floor and defrost only. I pulled the head, table top teched the inside. -5 re-spot solders were needed, as some seperate from the board from age. Thought that may have helped. No go. Correct me if I'm wrong but from what i checked there are a couple door actuator's that are in the dash. I have seen the one by left of glovebox is one that people said replace that one. Just want to be sure. Are they all the same when I order one. Do or would you know which one I may need to replace? Also "2" under left side of dash? I'd sure appreciate it.
Fluid ounces are not the same as pounds and ounces. 6oz is 3/4 of a cup. It has nothing to do with the weight of the fluid. That's the wrong way to measure the compressor oil. You need to use a liquid measuring device with an ounce measurement on it if it calls for a certain ounce specification.
Curtis W Good info, thanks for sharing.
you don't use fluid ounce for oil,there is so many different densities with oil depending on the type of oil you're dealing with,oil is the exception to the rule,oils are never measured in fl oz,there can be up to a quarter 3rd fill difference with the same container .A PAG 46 lb/cubic inch refrigerant oil's kinematic viscosity is high enough to be nearly considered as solid matter,therefore that guy in the video is pretty accurate when he uses an ounce scale .
As long as your scale reads the same as the weight on the side of the bottle. Anything over is the weight of the bottle itself.
I had my AC compressor replaced this past Friday. When i got car back home and reversed into driveway i heard a terrible noise coming from right wheel well. Is it possible the CV joint could have been damaged during the AC compressor repair?
Attention: Go to the Auto Parts or Hardware Store and get "Black" "O" rings. The green ones tend to leak easier. Just by personal experience.
My oil says 230cc how much would that be???
Thanks
8:36 Personally, i'd have used either a double end capped PAG or 525 SUS mineral oil (the one used for R-12) to lubricate the o-rings, or even the Nylog. The oil you used doesn't state anywhere on its container that it's double end capped, so i assume it's a single end capped PAG. Reason is, single end capped PAG oil is hygroscopic, just like Ester. Double end capped PAG, mineral and Nylog aren't.
Bro, do a video on , " Evil / demented engineers" that place spark plugs under layers of stuff you have to disassemble to just do a spark plug change. How about my Nissan Versa, Spark plugs are a pain! Also, the AC Compressor is hard to get to and they fail every two years!?! Sorry for rant...
hi i am new in the ac system of the car most of the time im doing only trouble shooting, now im facing my own car problem in the compressor. i just replace a new compressor in my kia carens 2005 model, in my carelessness i spill some of the oil while im mounting the compressor, now i dont know the exact amount of oil needed to fill up in my compressor..... i tried finding the info sheet under my hood but i find nothing, also in the compressor there is nothing mention the amount of oil needed....... please help.........dirkie qatar
Hi, I ordered an a/c compressor that came pre-filled with oil. Someone told me that something had to be blown or it might hurt the system. Does that still need to happen if the compressor came filled with oil?
Nice video but way to many long annoying ads!
Good series! I have a feeling most guys who try to do their own will skip steps that set them up for more problems later. I believe one of the things the makers of new compressors look for is evidence the system was flushed of debris before recharging the system again. It's easy to see how debris in the system could damage a new compressor. Too bad such specialized equipment is needed to follow those kind of warranty guidelines.
spelunkerd Yes, a/c work is hard to do as a Diyer but not impossible. I was lucky my compressor didn't seize up otherwise I would have had to figure out a way to flush the system or better yet replace nearly all components.
RatchetsAnd Wrenches I need help on a gmc envoy
RatchetsAnd Wrenches i thought tht flushing was necessary as a result of the leak. If i understand you correctly as long as the compressor runs up to removal you dont need to replace condenser and expansion valve and flush the lines? If it's accurate it'll save me tons of money. Waiting for feedback
I purchase a honda compressor and had It put in and metals and antifreeze came out of it. I was reading one of your articles about the condenser should have being replaced first. So now I want to know is the compressor ruin because it had to much pressure and a loud noise?
99 cavalear 24 leter it leeks at the hoses in compreser
you didnt mention the orfice and filter
I have a leak in my ac manifold the square looking cover on top of the compressor that has the two hose inlets for the the low ans high side. Is there a gasket under that cover
Would you recommend adding oil with that bottle you've used or should I get the little cans of oil and add it through the manifold gauges? and also what's the differences of these methods?
HI ! If you can show me or head to a site where I can see how to change the A / C compressor to a matiz-daewoo car
Great video - I would have spray cleaned around the compressor and Hoses 1st before taking off . Less crude. 👍🏻
I’m working on this exact car and cannot for the life of me figure out how you get the line with the orface tube out.
how do you remove ac bracket on ford explorer
My compressor went out on my 08 Malibu. Delphi is expensive so I was looking at UAC or GPD. Your thoughts on those brands?
any idea why i got a squeaking sound near the ac pump especially when the car move and the ac pump is not working
Great video. Very helpful. Why did you weigh the oil? 5oz weight is not the same as 5 fluid oz. CCs and fluid oz are both volume based. Not trying to be smartass just wondering if I'm missing something.
Read the comments, they already answered this question.
Steve Frailey yea you rite wont harm it tho seeing how alot of people do it that way..but i use a beker for cc to convert the oz to the rite cc
What a terrible place to put that compressor.
Before removing the high and low pressure lines, do you need to drain anything?
You’ll need to evacuate the AC system with vacuum pump
Hi, you shouldn't use the PAG to lubricate the O rings, use mineral oil instead.
I needed these videos!! I’m literally binging on most of them related to the compressor and belts.
Can one get a compressor from junkyard or ebay and just replace the clutch say for example on a 2011 Nissan Sentra 2.0? I watched all your diagnostic videos and determined a burned out clutch. Everything else is fine. Great job on videos. I've been studying them for several days. I don't want to pay someone else to do something I can do once I understand it. know what I mean?
You can. Prob be worth a shot if you dont mind going back and redoing things if it doesnt work out for ya. Since it was 9 months ago i'm sure you chose what you wanted to do by now. Curious as to which route u went. And is it still good this year, summers already here in some places(like where i'm at in charleston, sc!) Hot already!
I'm confused about recharging the system from vacuum (such as after installing a new compressor). I understand the compressor clutch will NOT engage when refrigerant pressure is too low, BUT... in order to fully recharge the system, the compressor must be running, which means the refrigerant pressure must be great enough for the clutch to engage. Does the pressure inside one 12oz can of refrigerant pressurize the system sufficiently to trigger the clutch to engage?
If it's a system that uses txv, might have to "jump" compressor at first. After just a couple ozs, put relay back in and it should be running on it's own. Finish filling other 15 to 20 oz or whatever it calls for. If uses orifice tube, jump it there if you got to. But those systems may not need a "jumper" to get them to start taking refrigerant. Good Luck!
en ningún vídeo encontrado información de un 2008 kia spectra de el sys de air acondicionado
I have a question. I asked a mechanic to remove the refrigerant I had, but I forgot to ask about the oil. When I remove the ac compressor, will there be some oil in the system itself or does all the oil flow down to the compressor? I think oil is also in the dryer, but since I'll be replacing that as well I know that won't be a problem. Will it be safe to just fill the new compressor with the specific amount of oil (for me, it's 135ml) or could there be some pockets of oil in the system? Thanks!
A certain amount of oil resides in every component, since PAG and POE oils are polar and cling to the metal, covering anything in a thick oil film. Workshop manuals tell you to add a certain amount of oil when you replace any component, including the dryer. The safest thing period is to flush the whole system and add the whole oil charge into the new compressor. Another relatively safe way, when you're not dealing with a seized compressor, is to remove the old compressor, drain it of any oil and refill it with the same amount of oil that you drained, plus half a fluid oz to compensate for anything that clinged to the metal inside the compressor and you couldn't drain, plus any oil that came out while recovering the refrigerant, and plus any other oil amount that the workshop manual asks you to add for any other component you replaced together with the compressor.
Really good explanations... the only thing I could think of that was missing was how to know how much tension to leave on the belt?
i didn't see him change the drier filter
Can the AC system be depressurized just from the low pressure hose fitting?
What happens if the compressor is changed but the compressor never turns off when switched to off inside the car. What is that mean?
Sounds like your clutch bearing is frozen.
I still down understand people who downvote dyi help videos like this
It's a good video, although if you're going to replace the compressor you should also replace the condenser and flush the whole system out of particles and debris from the failed compressor, otherwise the contaminants in the system from the old compressor will just cause the new compressor to fail. You could try flushing the old condenser but that hardly ever works properly, best to just put a new one in.
I hope thats what the mechanic did with mine recently. He just said its in, gonna charge it. How fast would it make the new compressor bad if not done right?
Hi cuates saludos.
Cuantas onzas de aceite 134A para este compresor.
Dijo que son 5 onzas.
Hey, guys where I can I find the plugs used to plug up the compressor so the oil doesn't lesk until its reinserted back into the car? ?? Or do I not need to worry so much about them? Thanks!
Just put tape or plug them up with rags etc etc they’re just so oil doesn’t spill when your mounting it back onto the car that’s all it’s for
I have 02 elantra also and this has helped me so much thanks!
Do you always add the oil before connecting the compressor? I changed my compressor pretty sure didn't put any oil in and the bee compressor failed after 5 days
If you change the compressor make sure when u get refrigerant for it u get the cans made for first time fill of system because the oil is mixed in with the coolant.
Very good video. Now I KNOW I can replace my own compressor and save dollars too. Thank you.
Can u tell me what the bolt on the rear of the a/c compresser,
Very good, clear, video.
Like Curtis Walker said, though, ounce weight is not the same as fluid ounce. RatchetsAnd Wrenches, when you measured out 5.0 ounces by weight, you were getting about 4.67 fl oz (138 cc) of oil. (I calculated this using the published density of 1.03 g/cc for PAG 46.)
Mark Tomory Interesting, thanks for sharing this useful bit of info! cheers
+Mark Tomory so what you are saying is that it was dumb luck for him that 5.0 oz by weight worked out to about the correct fl oz required! His customer in this case was fortunate!!
Mine has a bolt you remove, dump out the test oil and add 7.5 oz pag 46. only problem I have is there are two bolts?
You have 3 bolts. 2 for the low/high side lines. 1 plug. On back. Use that to drain oil from new compressor. Refill it there as well. Or you can do it through the low side line port. Some use high side line port as well and will say it doesnt matter. Prob doesnt in the end as long as vac is done and gauges read correct when finished. But, a manufacturer of a new compressor is prob going to say to drain from drain plug to make sure amount put in at factory was correct. Then refill in same.
All the info that's needed in a short video series. Sweet !
Yes, short and sweet. Thanks for your comment.
what size wrench do you use to tighten the nut on the ac compressor?
I attempted to remove the ac compressor clutch on my 2010 nissan sentra. I was able to remove the bolt but the clutch does not come out as seen on the videos. Am I mising something? Just replacing the clutch kit.
Check for the snap ring
Can I remove my ac compressor and uses a smaller belt ? .. 2006 Nissan Altima 2.5s
weight reduction bro!👌👍
Thank you very nice trainiiny
If I turn on my AC and the compressor clutch doesn't kick in, it means I need a new clutch or compressor?
there are several things that can cause that. only have an ase certified A/C tech work on your car,not high school drop out that thinks he is a mechanic, or you may be sorry. the newer cars have electrical system over rides to not let a/c turn on in some situations, it needs to be checked out by a pro with scan tool. (ase master tech)
i have a 2000 ford ranger that has never had a ac compressor. thats how i bought it and im woundering if its the same steps to istall it
If it wasnt built with an ac system, then youre in for a pain. Best to sell it and buy a car that has ac.
Recovering refrigerant is a piece of cake lol
When you replace a new compressor,you need to add the lubricating oil,where is the hole on the compressor to add it? Is all the lubricant oil the same?
I just got a new compressor to put on my car. They sell refrigerant at the parts store that has the oil in it. Make sure u ask for the refrigerant for first time fill up.
My 2001 GMC Sierra calls for 8 oz max oil (they told me this at Autozone) If my brand new compressor comes with 3 oz oil already in it, do I need to add another 5 oz before I install it? Or is there some other way to add the 5 additional ounces later after I install the compressor?
when you drain the old one, that is how much should be added to the new one. oil remains in the system so if you drain out 3 oz, then 5 is still in system. some in the dryer,some in the condenser,some in the evaporator. the oil travels with the gas wile the a/c is running. excess oil will impair the gas from expanding and reduce cooling. oil will not expand in the evaporator like the gas does.( ase master tech)
Thanks Terry. That makes sense. But you must have faith the proper amount was in your system. If 3 oz or so is typical to drain (from my 8 oz compressor), then I guess you would be safe with this method.
Without this video I would not be able to do it.
Do you put refrigerant or pag on the o rings
Right on man. Thank you.
Love the ending beat. Encourages a fire within for success 😉