This is the best AC compressor video I've found so far. I just did the compressor and condenser on my Mazda 6. Everything went just as the video described. Thanks
I'm replacing my entire AC. There was a leak, according to last owner, and the clutch seized....and the condenser was punctured...so, looks like an entire system replace. Advance Auto has all parts, even flush and freon and condensor/compressor on sale for $387 for everything, and then gives you a $50 gift card rebate so it ends up being about $350 to replace the system. Can't pass that up! This has been very helpful. Thank you!
Best video on RUclips on this subject, very clear and concise, still will have someone else do mine but your video made it less daunting and gave me some good information about O-Rings, I would not have asked my mechanic to do that if I didn't run across your video, I'm now subscribed to this channel.
A fluid ounce (abbreviated as fl. oz.) is used to measure fluids while an ounce (abbreviated as oz.) is for dry measurements. This gives us the idea that a fluid ounce is a measurement of volume while the other is a measurement of weight. There is a slight difference with Compressor Oil.
Great video!! Thanks for doing it in 1080p! Only neg thing is like Jason said... volume is the amount of space the oil occupies, weight is the force exerted on an object due to gravity. The sticker on the car was in CC's for a reason... because its a common unit of volume... Think about it like this- If I take 120cc or mL of liquid mercury which can be converted to 4 fluid oz and measure it in a 1/2 cup container then do the same for water and place them individually on a scale do you think they'll both weigh 0.25 lb? Answer: No of course not because Mercury has a much heavier molar mass than does water therefore it will weigh more.
This is good work and a great teaching tool... One thing though...I think that "ounces" refers to FLUID ounces, not ounces of weight. I'm just sayin'.....
You are correct - I noticed the same thing. Interestingly, the conversion from grams to ounces is .0353, which is almost the same as the conversion from cc to fluid ounces, which is .0338. Considering that 1 gram of water has a volume of 1 cc, he's only off by about 10% since the specific gravity of oil is about 90% the SG of water. He actually adds about 160 cc which weighs about 5 ounces.
Great info! I'll be changing my compressor and condenser on my 2006 scion TC soon. I'll be going almost completely off of this to get the job done. I'll be measuring my refrigerant oil differently though. Thanks for the help!
The specific gravity of water is 1 making fluid ounces and dry ounces equal. The specific gravity of pag oil is .985 (almost 1) so the technical headache of the difference between dry ounces(weight) and fluid ounces(volume) is didactic in this instance. It is only an auto not going to the moon.
Love the detailed explanation on how to replace a ac compressor I’ll be changing the ac compressor on my 05 Acura MDX tomorrow Thank you so much saving me $$$ 😁
Good series! I have a feeling most guys who try to do their own will skip steps that set them up for more problems later. I believe one of the things the makers of new compressors look for is evidence the system was flushed of debris before recharging the system again. It's easy to see how debris in the system could damage a new compressor. Too bad such specialized equipment is needed to follow those kind of warranty guidelines.
spelunkerd Yes, a/c work is hard to do as a Diyer but not impossible. I was lucky my compressor didn't seize up otherwise I would have had to figure out a way to flush the system or better yet replace nearly all components.
RatchetsAnd Wrenches i thought tht flushing was necessary as a result of the leak. If i understand you correctly as long as the compressor runs up to removal you dont need to replace condenser and expansion valve and flush the lines? If it's accurate it'll save me tons of money. Waiting for feedback
Would you recommend adding oil with that bottle you've used or should I get the little cans of oil and add it through the manifold gauges? and also what's the differences of these methods?
Great video. Very helpful. Why did you weigh the oil? 5oz weight is not the same as 5 fluid oz. CCs and fluid oz are both volume based. Not trying to be smartass just wondering if I'm missing something.
@6:27 It is very good and detailed film on changing a compressor, so many tips, thank you very much. If I need to replace the oil fm the compressor and not sure what exactly oil is there, can I flush it out? Is it possible? With the special flush liquid, like what we use to flush the evaporator e. g. The car AC (it is 2001 Saturn SL2) works on PAG oil (that is what Shop Manual says, they don't specify which PAG of 3 types). PAG oil comes in 3 types 46, 100, 150. As far as I understand you can use any, but you can't mix them. The car was in the dealer shop like 10 years ago, and they replaced the compressor 3 times, but shortly after AC stopped working anyway. I think that is bcs they didn't replaced the Condenser, I've read that the clogged Condenser can cause the Compressor to fail. I'm replacing everything besides the Evaporator (which I will flush of course) I think. Or if so little oil is left after proper draining it doesn't matter what PAG was there? Thank you again.
Hi , Thanks for great videos I am replacing all my Ac components on VW Passat 2002 (AZM Engine 2.0). Condenser, Evaporator, Drier, orifice, Hoses and compressor . 250ml is total oil requirement for my whole system as per VW manual and system is R134a. My question is about adding oil after complete flush or complete new components. I have two choices:- 1. Calculate oil came with new compressor (say for example it had 200ml). Pour back 200 in new compressor and where shall I add the rest? Is it condenser or drier or add with new compressor itself? 2. Other option as Manual says distribute oil - 50% Compressor, 10% condenser, 10% suction pipe, 20% Evaporator & 10% Drier. Confusion is adding OIL to “Suction pipe” - which flows directly to compressor LP port and into compressor. So what’s point? If Option 1 can be right then I am happy as adding 250ml direct through compressor drain plug and rotate 5 times clutch and charge system. Also I understand OIL is only for compressor lubrication and nothing else. Hope you can get me the right answer which can help others too.
Hey I've got a real quick question for you after a person has put oil in the compressor when you start charging the AC up would you still have to put an oil through the lines so much at a time while you're charging the AC
Thank you for very informative video with step by step procedures. I am wondering when the Toyota say 5.7 oz of PAG 46 oil for my A/C compressor, it is for the whole system (AC lines, condenser, evaporator) or just for compressor. I searched online, and it is still confusing me because some said only put the amount of oil comes out of old A/C compressor to the new one. Please help to clarify it.
How to go about the compressor, which has a low pressure port on the bottom of its cylinder, on the side opposite to the clutch side? So the Suction hole is just at the center of that plane. The High port is approximately in the same position like in the compressor shown in this film @0:22. So the Low and High ports are not on the same plane. The hole for Low P port doesn't have any oil around. Should I still use it to fill the compressor and then plugged it in before install? I removed that compressor and now need to clean properly and fill in w/new PAG 100, but in doubts about the procedure, since the shape is different fm/the compressors shown here and in all other films on the subject I saw. Thank you for your film again.
Great video! The only thing I'll mention is that your method of weighing the oil to determine the amount of oil put into the compressor is off. The requirement for a specific number of ounces is in reference to volume, not weight. Fluid ounces (volume) do not relate to dry weight ounces. This means that the amount of oil added could be off by an amount enough to cause damage. Of course you could weigh the full bottle, subtract the weight of the empty bottle and divide the remaining weight by the volume to give you an idea of how much each fluid ounce weighs. That being said, all in all a great tutorial!
I thought the same thing at first and your are technically correct - but Frank Dieli's reply above is a great explanation and makes complete sense so this weighing approach is ok in this instance.
Great detailed video as always. I thought weighing the pag oil container was a great idea instead of guessing with a measuring cup. I've heard so many stories of people doing their own a/c work and not getting the system right due to too much pag oil in the system. Keep up the good work.
Jimmy Mac That little scale is very useful to have around the shop, AC system repair shouldn't be difficult as long as one has the right tools, good instructions and can follow them exactly. Thanks for you comment,
very helpful VIDEO , please tell me I have Toyota RAV4 2010 can I use another AC compressor from deferent car like BMW or Ford . or it must be the same as I take it out.
Very good, clear, video. Like Curtis Walker said, though, ounce weight is not the same as fluid ounce. RatchetsAnd Wrenches, when you measured out 5.0 ounces by weight, you were getting about 4.67 fl oz (138 cc) of oil. (I calculated this using the published density of 1.03 g/cc for PAG 46.)
+Mark Tomory so what you are saying is that it was dumb luck for him that 5.0 oz by weight worked out to about the correct fl oz required! His customer in this case was fortunate!!
Guys dont evacuate refridegerant to the atmosphere have it reclaimed properly. R12 or r134a are horrible for the atmosphere and its a huge fine. Otherwise mate great diy. Just want people to know how harmful the refridgerant and dessicants are.
Well yeah and no...Its a certain amount of "PAG" oil you have to add 1st.....The autozone R134 only has a little PAG oil....Not enuff for the whole system...Remember, The freon evaporates, but, the oil stays behind when you just do a recharge....Whole system redo , you gota add the right amount of PAG oil....Otherwise...Your new compressor will just burn up...Now, you gota do this all over again and cost even more money.....Chris Fixx has a great vid on recharging the whole system...and , if I remember right....You can get the gauges on loan from Auto Zone...Happy Huntin'.....
@ 8:36 , Personally, i'd have used either a double end capped PAG or 525 SUS mineral oil (the one used for R-12) to lubricate the o-rings, or even the Nylog. The oil you used doesn't state anywhere on its container that it's double end capped, so i assume it's a single end capped PAG. Reason is, single end capped PAG oil is hygroscopic, just like Ester. Double end capped PAG, mineral and Nylog aren't. Only ways to remove any oil are to replace parts, recover the refrigerant fast enough or flush parts. Vacuum isn't going to affect oil quantity in any way. There's no more refrigerant that can carry the oil with it, while you vacuum. There isn't any other agent that can dissolve it either. Also, PAG and POE oils are polar. They cling to the metal. That's why workshop manuals tell you to add a certain amount of oil after replacing an AC part, without even bothering to drain and measure. A certain amount of oil resides in every component, since PAG and POE oils are polar and cling to the metal, covering anything in a thick oil film. Workshop manuals tell you to add a certain amount of oil when you replace any component, including the dryer. The safest thing period is to flush the whole system and add the whole oil charge into the new compressor. Another relatively safe way, when you're not dealing with a seized compressor, is to remove the old compressor, drain it of any oil and refill it with the same amount of oil that you drained, plus half a fluid oz to compensate for anything that clinged to the metal inside the compressor and you couldn't drain, plus any oil that came out while recovering the refrigerant, and plus any other oil amount that the workshop manual asks you to add for any other component you replaced together with the compressor.
Fluid ounces are not the same as pounds and ounces. 6oz is 3/4 of a cup. It has nothing to do with the weight of the fluid. That's the wrong way to measure the compressor oil. You need to use a liquid measuring device with an ounce measurement on it if it calls for a certain ounce specification.
you don't use fluid ounce for oil,there is so many different densities with oil depending on the type of oil you're dealing with,oil is the exception to the rule,oils are never measured in fl oz,there can be up to a quarter 3rd fill difference with the same container .A PAG 46 lb/cubic inch refrigerant oil's kinematic viscosity is high enough to be nearly considered as solid matter,therefore that guy in the video is pretty accurate when he uses an ounce scale .
Can one get a compressor from junkyard or ebay and just replace the clutch say for example on a 2011 Nissan Sentra 2.0? I watched all your diagnostic videos and determined a burned out clutch. Everything else is fine. Great job on videos. I've been studying them for several days. I don't want to pay someone else to do something I can do once I understand it. know what I mean?
You can. Prob be worth a shot if you dont mind going back and redoing things if it doesnt work out for ya. Since it was 9 months ago i'm sure you chose what you wanted to do by now. Curious as to which route u went. And is it still good this year, summers already here in some places(like where i'm at in charleston, sc!) Hot already!
I had nowhere else to ask this, and can not find anyone that has helped. I have a 1999 Buick Park Avenue. My A/C stopped blowin out of vents. Floor and defrost only. I pulled the head, table top teched the inside. -5 re-spot solders were needed, as some seperate from the board from age. Thought that may have helped. No go. Correct me if I'm wrong but from what i checked there are a couple door actuator's that are in the dash. I have seen the one by left of glovebox is one that people said replace that one. Just want to be sure. Are they all the same when I order one. Do or would you know which one I may need to replace? Also "2" under left side of dash? I'd sure appreciate it.
I purchase a honda compressor and had It put in and metals and antifreeze came out of it. I was reading one of your articles about the condenser should have being replaced first. So now I want to know is the compressor ruin because it had to much pressure and a loud noise?
Awesome vid, I have a question. If I need to also change the accumulator and orifice tube. In what order do I change the parts (compressor, orifice tube, accumulator)? When do I take it to my mechanic to flush or charge?
I had my AC compressor replaced this past Friday. When i got car back home and reversed into driveway i heard a terrible noise coming from right wheel well. Is it possible the CV joint could have been damaged during the AC compressor repair?
About the oil.. denso has a video stating to balance the oil amount if only changing the compressor.. to my understanding other components still contain the Initial oil charge. That the oil is not lost during evacuation. I'm just a back yard mechanic / hobbyist. If someone can shed some light on this, that would be great. Their is so many questions I have to be answered. I need to change my compressor, but don't want to over fill the system.
+RatchetsAnd Wrenches Awesome video! I have to do this repair to my 2009 Toyota Tacoma. Chrisfix makes a video on this topic also. Thank you for the reply!!
It's a good video, although if you're going to replace the compressor you should also replace the condenser and flush the whole system out of particles and debris from the failed compressor, otherwise the contaminants in the system from the old compressor will just cause the new compressor to fail. You could try flushing the old condenser but that hardly ever works properly, best to just put a new one in.
I hope thats what the mechanic did with mine recently. He just said its in, gonna charge it. How fast would it make the new compressor bad if not done right?
I'm confused about recharging the system from vacuum (such as after installing a new compressor). I understand the compressor clutch will NOT engage when refrigerant pressure is too low, BUT... in order to fully recharge the system, the compressor must be running, which means the refrigerant pressure must be great enough for the clutch to engage. Does the pressure inside one 12oz can of refrigerant pressurize the system sufficiently to trigger the clutch to engage?
If it's a system that uses txv, might have to "jump" compressor at first. After just a couple ozs, put relay back in and it should be running on it's own. Finish filling other 15 to 20 oz or whatever it calls for. If uses orifice tube, jump it there if you got to. But those systems may not need a "jumper" to get them to start taking refrigerant. Good Luck!
8:36 Personally, i'd have used either a double end capped PAG or 525 SUS mineral oil (the one used for R-12) to lubricate the o-rings, or even the Nylog. The oil you used doesn't state anywhere on its container that it's double end capped, so i assume it's a single end capped PAG. Reason is, single end capped PAG oil is hygroscopic, just like Ester. Double end capped PAG, mineral and Nylog aren't.
Hi, I ordered an a/c compressor that came pre-filled with oil. Someone told me that something had to be blown or it might hurt the system. Does that still need to happen if the compressor came filled with oil?
Hey man quick question, After putting the oil in the compressor, and installing the compressor, do you then put the vacuum pump on ? and will that not suck up the Pag oil ? Specfically I have a 1999 Honda Civic Dx
Only ways to remove any oil are to replace parts, recover the refrigerant fast enough or flush parts. Vacuum isn't going to affect oil quantity in any way. There's no more refrigerant that can carry the oil with it, while you vacuum. There isn't any other agent that can dissolve it either. Also, PAG and POE oils are polar. They cling to the metal. That's why workshop manuals tell you to add a certain amount of oil after replacing an AC part, without even bothering to drain and measure.
Hello R&R...how about a 2016 Mitsubishi Outlander that stops blowing cold air when I'm stopped at a red light or stop and go traffic??? Once I get going, it starts blowing cold air again. REALLY annoying! I have to put it in neutral and rev up the engine when I'm stopped, or I will bake. Freon HAS been properly vacuum and recharged...Any suggestions? Thanks!
1 ml = 1 gram !!! Lots of modern AC recovery machines uses the weight of the PAG oil to be injected !! Depends what system or method a person is using. Usually, after the system's refrigerant and oil has been recovered into the machine, you empty out the oil in the NEW compressor and refill with the manufacturer's specified amount !!
Lew, when you get a new compressor(not an old remanned one, but brand new, like form GPD or somewhere) dont they want you to drain the factory oil from it, and do it from the "drain plug"? Then, refill, like you said, with some different oil, and back into the same drain plug port? Not fill from line ports? Just curious what you think about "conditioning" or prepping a new compressor prior to a complete system rebuild(minus evaporator). Thx! Btw, 2000 Chrysler sebring conv Sanden type unit.
I have a question. I asked a mechanic to remove the refrigerant I had, but I forgot to ask about the oil. When I remove the ac compressor, will there be some oil in the system itself or does all the oil flow down to the compressor? I think oil is also in the dryer, but since I'll be replacing that as well I know that won't be a problem. Will it be safe to just fill the new compressor with the specific amount of oil (for me, it's 135ml) or could there be some pockets of oil in the system? Thanks!
A certain amount of oil resides in every component, since PAG and POE oils are polar and cling to the metal, covering anything in a thick oil film. Workshop manuals tell you to add a certain amount of oil when you replace any component, including the dryer. The safest thing period is to flush the whole system and add the whole oil charge into the new compressor. Another relatively safe way, when you're not dealing with a seized compressor, is to remove the old compressor, drain it of any oil and refill it with the same amount of oil that you drained, plus half a fluid oz to compensate for anything that clinged to the metal inside the compressor and you couldn't drain, plus any oil that came out while recovering the refrigerant, and plus any other oil amount that the workshop manual asks you to add for any other component you replaced together with the compressor.
When you replace a new compressor,you need to add the lubricating oil,where is the hole on the compressor to add it? Is all the lubricant oil the same?
I just got a new compressor to put on my car. They sell refrigerant at the parts store that has the oil in it. Make sure u ask for the refrigerant for first time fill up.
Do you always add the oil before connecting the compressor? I changed my compressor pretty sure didn't put any oil in and the bee compressor failed after 5 days
If you change the compressor make sure when u get refrigerant for it u get the cans made for first time fill of system because the oil is mixed in with the coolant.
Prob about the same as in the front. Like if 5 oz in system w out a rear, add 5 more with rear. Find out where to add the pag before pouring it all in only ONE spot! *Good Luck*
Man, you're the only one who explained the checking/adding oil on a an a/c compressor on youtube.
This is the best AC compressor video I've found so far. I just did the compressor and condenser on my Mazda 6. Everything went just as the video described. Thanks
I'm replacing my entire AC. There was a leak, according to last owner, and the clutch seized....and the condenser was punctured...so, looks like an entire system replace. Advance Auto has all parts, even flush and freon and condensor/compressor on sale for $387 for everything, and then gives you a $50 gift card rebate so it ends up being about $350 to replace the system. Can't pass that up! This has been very helpful. Thank you!
Becky Blanton You could’ve just got a bypass pulley for your AC compressor it’s only 45 bucks
@@nibroc1356 And do without the A/C? Why would she want to do that?
👍🏻
Best video on RUclips on this subject, very clear and concise, still will have someone else do mine but your video made it less daunting and gave me some good information about O-Rings, I would not have asked my mechanic to do that if I didn't run across your video, I'm now subscribed to this channel.
A fluid ounce (abbreviated as fl. oz.) is used to measure fluids while an ounce (abbreviated as oz.) is for dry measurements. This gives us the idea that a fluid ounce is a measurement of volume while the other is a measurement of weight. There is a slight difference with Compressor Oil.
Great video!! Thanks for doing it in 1080p! Only neg thing is like Jason said... volume is the amount of space the oil occupies,
weight is the force exerted on an object due to gravity. The sticker on the car was in CC's for a reason... because its a common unit of volume... Think about it like this- If I take 120cc or mL of liquid mercury which can be converted to 4 fluid oz and measure it in a 1/2 cup container then do the same for water and place them individually on a scale do you think they'll both weigh 0.25 lb? Answer: No of course not because Mercury has a much heavier molar mass than does water therefore it will weigh more.
This is good work and a great teaching tool... One thing though...I
think that "ounces" refers to FLUID ounces, not ounces of weight. I'm
just sayin'.....
You are correct - I noticed the same thing. Interestingly, the conversion from grams to ounces is .0353, which is almost the same as the conversion from cc to fluid ounces, which is .0338. Considering that 1 gram of water has a volume of 1 cc, he's only off by about 10% since the specific gravity of oil is about 90% the SG of water. He actually adds about 160 cc which weighs about 5 ounces.
Thank you so much for the very detailed video and especially for covering how to determine the amount of Pag Oil to put in and where!
All the info that's needed in a short video series. Sweet !
Yes, short and sweet. Thanks for your comment.
Very helpful O'Reilly sold it to me and couldn't tell me been searching web for hours very appreciated
I needed these videos!! I’m literally binging on most of them related to the compressor and belts.
Great info! I'll be changing my compressor and condenser on my 2006 scion TC soon. I'll be going almost completely off of this to get the job done. I'll be measuring my refrigerant oil differently though. Thanks for the help!
christian wiskoski np, let us know how it goes and gl. cheers
Without this video I would not be able to do it.
Amazed at what you can learn to do on RUclips!
Tisa Hardin yes, youtube is pretty cool. thanks for commenting.
The specific gravity of water is 1 making fluid ounces and dry ounces equal. The specific gravity of pag oil is .985 (almost 1) so the technical headache of the difference between dry ounces(weight) and fluid ounces(volume) is didactic in this instance. It is only an auto not going to the moon.
Frank Dielii good info thanks.
Love the detailed explanation on how to replace a ac compressor
I’ll be changing the ac compressor on my 05 Acura MDX tomorrow
Thank you so much saving me $$$ 😁
Very helpful Thanks,
VERY helpful. Lots of little things I would have missed. Thank you!
I have 02 elantra also and this has helped me so much thanks!
Really good explanations... the only thing I could think of that was missing was how to know how much tension to leave on the belt?
Good series! I have a feeling most guys who try to do their own will skip steps that set them up for more problems later. I believe one of the things the makers of new compressors look for is evidence the system was flushed of debris before recharging the system again. It's easy to see how debris in the system could damage a new compressor. Too bad such specialized equipment is needed to follow those kind of warranty guidelines.
spelunkerd Yes, a/c work is hard to do as a Diyer but not impossible. I was lucky my compressor didn't seize up otherwise I would have had to figure out a way to flush the system or better yet replace nearly all components.
RatchetsAnd Wrenches I need help on a gmc envoy
RatchetsAnd Wrenches i thought tht flushing was necessary as a result of the leak. If i understand you correctly as long as the compressor runs up to removal you dont need to replace condenser and expansion valve and flush the lines? If it's accurate it'll save me tons of money. Waiting for feedback
Thanks for video. It was very helpful in my repair. You saved me hundreds of dollars.
Thank you for being detailed man you taught me alot with the video.
Great video. It's easy to do, just harder to get to the compressor in some cars. (Looking at you, MINI/BMW)
Would you recommend adding oil with that bottle you've used or should I get the little cans of oil and add it through the manifold gauges? and also what's the differences of these methods?
Great video. Very helpful. Why did you weigh the oil? 5oz weight is not the same as 5 fluid oz. CCs and fluid oz are both volume based. Not trying to be smartass just wondering if I'm missing something.
Read the comments, they already answered this question.
Steve Frailey yea you rite wont harm it tho seeing how alot of people do it that way..but i use a beker for cc to convert the oz to the rite cc
Very good video. Now I KNOW I can replace my own compressor and save dollars too. Thank you.
@6:27 It is very good and detailed film on changing a compressor, so many tips, thank you very much. If I need to replace the oil fm the compressor and not sure what exactly oil is there, can I flush it out? Is it possible? With the special flush liquid, like what we use to flush the evaporator e. g. The car AC (it is 2001 Saturn SL2) works on PAG oil (that is what Shop Manual says, they don't specify which PAG of 3 types). PAG oil comes in 3 types 46, 100, 150. As far as I understand you can use any, but you can't mix them. The car was in the dealer shop like 10 years ago, and they replaced the compressor 3 times, but shortly after AC stopped working anyway. I think that is bcs they didn't replaced the Condenser, I've read that the clogged Condenser can cause the Compressor to fail. I'm replacing everything besides the Evaporator (which I will flush of course) I think. Or if so little oil is left after proper draining it doesn't matter what PAG was there? Thank you again.
Hi , Thanks for great videos
I am replacing all my Ac components on VW Passat 2002 (AZM Engine 2.0). Condenser, Evaporator, Drier, orifice, Hoses and compressor .
250ml is total oil requirement for my whole system as per VW manual and system is R134a.
My question is about adding oil after complete flush or complete new components. I have two choices:-
1. Calculate oil came with new compressor (say for example it had 200ml). Pour back 200 in new compressor and where shall I add the rest?
Is it condenser or drier or add with new compressor itself?
2. Other option as Manual says distribute oil - 50% Compressor, 10% condenser, 10% suction pipe, 20% Evaporator & 10% Drier.
Confusion is adding OIL to “Suction pipe” - which flows directly to compressor LP port and into compressor. So what’s point?
If Option 1 can be right then I am happy as adding 250ml direct through compressor drain plug and rotate 5 times clutch and charge system.
Also I understand OIL is only for compressor lubrication and nothing else.
Hope you can get me the right answer which can help others too.
Hey I've got a real quick question for you after a person has put oil in the compressor when you start charging the AC up would you still have to put an oil through the lines so much at a time while you're charging the AC
I like your videos on repair. Very easy to follow and useful for my projects. Thanks!
Thank you for very informative video with step by step procedures. I am wondering when the Toyota say 5.7 oz of PAG 46 oil for my A/C compressor, it is for the whole system (AC lines, condenser, evaporator) or just for compressor. I searched online, and it is still confusing me because some said only put the amount of oil comes out of old A/C compressor to the new one. Please help to clarify it.
How to go about the compressor, which has a low pressure port on the bottom of its cylinder, on the side opposite to the clutch side? So the Suction hole is just at the center of that plane. The High port is approximately in the same position like in the compressor shown in this film @0:22. So the Low and High ports are not on the same plane. The hole for Low P port doesn't have any oil around. Should I still use it to fill the compressor and then plugged it in before install? I removed that compressor and now need to clean properly and fill in w/new PAG 100, but in doubts about the procedure, since the shape is different fm/the compressors shown here and in all other films on the subject I saw. Thank you for your film again.
Aye if u need to drain your refrigerant just go to your local valvoline. They do it for free (youre welcome)
Thank you for a thoughtful video. This will help me replace my first AC compressor.
+Nate N np, glad you liked it. cheers
Great video that touches on some parts that others leave out.
Great video! The only thing I'll mention is that your method of weighing the oil to determine the amount of oil put into the compressor is off. The requirement for a specific number of ounces is in reference to volume, not weight. Fluid ounces (volume) do not relate to dry weight ounces. This means that the amount of oil added could be off by an amount enough to cause damage. Of course you could weigh the full bottle, subtract the weight of the empty bottle and divide the remaining weight by the volume to give you an idea of how much each fluid ounce weighs.
That being said, all in all a great tutorial!
I thought the same thing at first and your are technically correct - but Frank Dieli's reply above is a great explanation and makes complete sense so this weighing approach is ok in this instance.
Great detailed video as always. I thought weighing the pag oil container was a great idea instead of guessing with a measuring cup. I've heard so many stories of people doing their own a/c work and not getting the system right due to too much pag oil in the system. Keep up the good work.
Jimmy Mac That little scale is very useful to have around the shop, AC system repair shouldn't be difficult as long as one has the right tools, good instructions and can follow them exactly. Thanks for you comment,
very helpful VIDEO , please tell me I have Toyota RAV4 2010 can I use another AC compressor from deferent car like BMW or Ford . or it must be the same as I take it out.
My compressor went out on my 08 Malibu. Delphi is expensive so I was looking at UAC or GPD. Your thoughts on those brands?
Very good, clear, video.
Like Curtis Walker said, though, ounce weight is not the same as fluid ounce. RatchetsAnd Wrenches, when you measured out 5.0 ounces by weight, you were getting about 4.67 fl oz (138 cc) of oil. (I calculated this using the published density of 1.03 g/cc for PAG 46.)
Mark Tomory Interesting, thanks for sharing this useful bit of info! cheers
+Mark Tomory so what you are saying is that it was dumb luck for him that 5.0 oz by weight worked out to about the correct fl oz required! His customer in this case was fortunate!!
Love the ending beat. Encourages a fire within for success 😉
Guys dont evacuate refridegerant to the atmosphere have it reclaimed properly. R12 or r134a are horrible for the atmosphere and its a huge fine. Otherwise mate great diy. Just want people to know how harmful the refridgerant and dessicants are.
Question- Once the new compressor is installed, do you just charge the system with 134 Freon that you can buy at autozone?
Well yeah and no...Its a certain amount of "PAG" oil you have to add 1st.....The autozone R134 only has a little PAG oil....Not enuff for the whole system...Remember, The freon evaporates, but, the oil stays behind when you just do a recharge....Whole system redo , you gota add the right amount of PAG oil....Otherwise...Your new compressor will just burn up...Now, you gota do this all over again and cost even more money.....Chris Fixx has a great vid on recharging the whole system...and , if I remember right....You can get the gauges on loan from Auto Zone...Happy Huntin'.....
@ 8:36 , Personally, i'd have used either a double end capped PAG or 525 SUS mineral oil (the one used for R-12) to lubricate the o-rings, or even the Nylog. The oil you used doesn't state anywhere on its container that it's double end capped, so i assume it's a single end capped PAG. Reason is, single end capped PAG oil is hygroscopic, just like Ester. Double end capped PAG, mineral and Nylog aren't.
Only ways to remove any oil are to replace parts, recover the refrigerant fast enough or flush parts. Vacuum isn't going to affect oil quantity in any way. There's no more refrigerant that can carry the oil with it, while you vacuum. There isn't any other agent that can dissolve it either. Also, PAG and POE oils are polar. They cling to the metal. That's why workshop manuals tell you to add a certain amount of oil after replacing an AC part, without even bothering to drain and measure.
A certain amount of oil resides in every component, since PAG and POE oils are polar and cling to the metal, covering anything in a thick oil film. Workshop manuals tell you to add a certain amount of oil when you replace any component, including the dryer. The safest thing period is to flush the whole system and add the whole oil charge into the new compressor. Another relatively safe way, when you're not dealing with a seized compressor, is to remove the old compressor, drain it of any oil and refill it with the same amount of oil that you drained, plus half a fluid oz to compensate for anything that clinged to the metal inside the compressor and you couldn't drain, plus any oil that came out while recovering the refrigerant, and plus any other oil amount that the workshop manual asks you to add for any other component you replaced together with the compressor.
Fluid ounces are not the same as pounds and ounces. 6oz is 3/4 of a cup. It has nothing to do with the weight of the fluid. That's the wrong way to measure the compressor oil. You need to use a liquid measuring device with an ounce measurement on it if it calls for a certain ounce specification.
Curtis W Good info, thanks for sharing.
you don't use fluid ounce for oil,there is so many different densities with oil depending on the type of oil you're dealing with,oil is the exception to the rule,oils are never measured in fl oz,there can be up to a quarter 3rd fill difference with the same container .A PAG 46 lb/cubic inch refrigerant oil's kinematic viscosity is high enough to be nearly considered as solid matter,therefore that guy in the video is pretty accurate when he uses an ounce scale .
As long as your scale reads the same as the weight on the side of the bottle. Anything over is the weight of the bottle itself.
Well done! Thanks for helping me answer a few questions I had.
Great video - I would have spray cleaned around the compressor and Hoses 1st before taking off . Less crude. 👍🏻
As always, super well explain, thank you so much,
For the time and the explanation
Well done very clear and precise.
Thanks Speedy Gonzales!
Do you put refrigerant or pag on the o rings
Can one get a compressor from junkyard or ebay and just replace the clutch say for example on a 2011 Nissan Sentra 2.0? I watched all your diagnostic videos and determined a burned out clutch. Everything else is fine. Great job on videos. I've been studying them for several days. I don't want to pay someone else to do something I can do once I understand it. know what I mean?
You can. Prob be worth a shot if you dont mind going back and redoing things if it doesnt work out for ya. Since it was 9 months ago i'm sure you chose what you wanted to do by now. Curious as to which route u went. And is it still good this year, summers already here in some places(like where i'm at in charleston, sc!) Hot already!
I had nowhere else to ask this, and can not find anyone that has helped. I have a 1999 Buick Park Avenue. My A/C stopped blowin out of vents. Floor and defrost only. I pulled the head, table top teched the inside. -5 re-spot solders were needed, as some seperate from the board from age. Thought that may have helped. No go. Correct me if I'm wrong but from what i checked there are a couple door actuator's that are in the dash. I have seen the one by left of glovebox is one that people said replace that one. Just want to be sure. Are they all the same when I order one. Do or would you know which one I may need to replace? Also "2" under left side of dash? I'd sure appreciate it.
I purchase a honda compressor and had It put in and metals and antifreeze came out of it. I was reading one of your articles about the condenser should have being replaced first. So now I want to know is the compressor ruin because it had to much pressure and a loud noise?
Before removing the high and low pressure lines, do you need to drain anything?
You’ll need to evacuate the AC system with vacuum pump
Awesome vid, I have a question. If I need to also change the accumulator and orifice tube. In what order do I change the parts (compressor, orifice tube, accumulator)? When do I take it to my mechanic to flush or charge?
BTW Great videos. Very thorough and good step by step process. Hope you can assist with my question.
Thanks for sharing lesson learned.
Excellent job 👏👏👏👏🛠🛠⚒ and experience engineer
Right on man. Thank you.
Very informative! Thanks!
I had my AC compressor replaced this past Friday. When i got car back home and reversed into driveway i heard a terrible noise coming from right wheel well. Is it possible the CV joint could have been damaged during the AC compressor repair?
Attention: Go to the Auto Parts or Hardware Store and get "Black" "O" rings. The green ones tend to leak easier. Just by personal experience.
The oil is measured by fluid ounces not weight ounces. While refrigerant measurement is by weight.
Thank for taking the time to make this great video!!
About the oil.. denso has a video stating to balance the oil amount if only changing the compressor.. to my understanding other components still contain the Initial oil charge. That the oil is not lost during evacuation. I'm just a back yard mechanic / hobbyist. If someone can shed some light on this, that would be great. Their is so many questions I have to be answered. I need to change my compressor, but don't want to over fill the system.
How has repair held up?? Salvage yard vs new part??? I heard you should use a new copressor for a lasting repair.
+Stephen Maurer It has held up great so far, and thats getting regular use in socal too.
+RatchetsAnd Wrenches Awesome video! I have to do this repair to my 2009 Toyota Tacoma. Chrisfix makes a video on this topic also.
Thank you for the reply!!
I still down understand people who downvote dyi help videos like this
really nice video, i like all of the details thats exactly what i was looking for thanks
Great video with excellent instructions. Thank You!
It's a good video, although if you're going to replace the compressor you should also replace the condenser and flush the whole system out of particles and debris from the failed compressor, otherwise the contaminants in the system from the old compressor will just cause the new compressor to fail. You could try flushing the old condenser but that hardly ever works properly, best to just put a new one in.
I hope thats what the mechanic did with mine recently. He just said its in, gonna charge it. How fast would it make the new compressor bad if not done right?
As always great work and excellent pointers.
Glad you like it, thanks for commenting.
Thank you very nice trainiiny
Hi, you shouldn't use the PAG to lubricate the O rings, use mineral oil instead.
I'm confused about recharging the system from vacuum (such as after installing a new compressor). I understand the compressor clutch will NOT engage when refrigerant pressure is too low, BUT... in order to fully recharge the system, the compressor must be running, which means the refrigerant pressure must be great enough for the clutch to engage. Does the pressure inside one 12oz can of refrigerant pressurize the system sufficiently to trigger the clutch to engage?
If it's a system that uses txv, might have to "jump" compressor at first. After just a couple ozs, put relay back in and it should be running on it's own. Finish filling other 15 to 20 oz or whatever it calls for. If uses orifice tube, jump it there if you got to. But those systems may not need a "jumper" to get them to start taking refrigerant. Good Luck!
8:36 Personally, i'd have used either a double end capped PAG or 525 SUS mineral oil (the one used for R-12) to lubricate the o-rings, or even the Nylog. The oil you used doesn't state anywhere on its container that it's double end capped, so i assume it's a single end capped PAG. Reason is, single end capped PAG oil is hygroscopic, just like Ester. Double end capped PAG, mineral and Nylog aren't.
I can't like this enough!
Great video. Helped me out a whole lot
Excellent video.
Hi, I ordered an a/c compressor that came pre-filled with oil. Someone told me that something had to be blown or it might hurt the system. Does that still need to happen if the compressor came filled with oil?
Can the AC system be depressurized just from the low pressure hose fitting?
thanks for explaining the oil part
Very dood and smart in mécanique. Thank you so much for your help
Hey man quick question, After putting the oil in the compressor, and installing the compressor, do you then put the vacuum pump on ? and will that not suck up the Pag oil ? Specfically I have a 1999 Honda Civic Dx
I know right? That what I'm wondering
Vacuuming the lines does not remove oil.
Only ways to remove any oil are to replace parts, recover the refrigerant fast enough or flush parts. Vacuum isn't going to affect oil quantity in any way. There's no more refrigerant that can carry the oil with it, while you vacuum. There isn't any other agent that can dissolve it either. Also, PAG and POE oils are polar. They cling to the metal. That's why workshop manuals tell you to add a certain amount of oil after replacing an AC part, without even bothering to drain and measure.
Very helpful video. Thanks
Hello R&R...how about a 2016 Mitsubishi Outlander that stops blowing cold air when I'm stopped at a red light or stop and go traffic??? Once I get going, it starts blowing cold air again. REALLY annoying! I have to put it in neutral and rev up the engine when I'm stopped, or I will bake. Freon HAS been properly vacuum and recharged...Any suggestions? Thanks!
fudge. i didn't swap out the two green seals. . . I was hoping they came pro- bono with the new a/c.
Very nice video - Thanks!
very good video! thank you!
what size wrench do you use to tighten the nut on the ac compressor?
1 ml = 1 gram !!! Lots of modern AC recovery machines uses the weight of the PAG oil to be injected !! Depends what system or method a person is using. Usually, after the system's refrigerant and oil has been recovered into the machine, you empty out the oil in the NEW compressor and refill with the manufacturer's specified amount !!
Lew, when you get a new compressor(not an old remanned one, but brand new, like form GPD or somewhere) dont they want you to drain the factory oil from it, and do it from the "drain plug"? Then, refill, like you said, with some different oil, and back into the same drain plug port? Not fill from line ports? Just curious what you think about "conditioning" or prepping a new compressor prior to a complete system rebuild(minus evaporator). Thx! Btw, 2000 Chrysler sebring conv Sanden type unit.
I have a question. I asked a mechanic to remove the refrigerant I had, but I forgot to ask about the oil. When I remove the ac compressor, will there be some oil in the system itself or does all the oil flow down to the compressor? I think oil is also in the dryer, but since I'll be replacing that as well I know that won't be a problem. Will it be safe to just fill the new compressor with the specific amount of oil (for me, it's 135ml) or could there be some pockets of oil in the system? Thanks!
A certain amount of oil resides in every component, since PAG and POE oils are polar and cling to the metal, covering anything in a thick oil film. Workshop manuals tell you to add a certain amount of oil when you replace any component, including the dryer. The safest thing period is to flush the whole system and add the whole oil charge into the new compressor. Another relatively safe way, when you're not dealing with a seized compressor, is to remove the old compressor, drain it of any oil and refill it with the same amount of oil that you drained, plus half a fluid oz to compensate for anything that clinged to the metal inside the compressor and you couldn't drain, plus any oil that came out while recovering the refrigerant, and plus any other oil amount that the workshop manual asks you to add for any other component you replaced together with the compressor.
Can I replace the compressor with the ac gas in the pipes?
Yeah but your supposed to have it safely removed first at a mechanic shop
Good information, thanks for sharing!
When you replace a new compressor,you need to add the lubricating oil,where is the hole on the compressor to add it? Is all the lubricant oil the same?
I just got a new compressor to put on my car. They sell refrigerant at the parts store that has the oil in it. Make sure u ask for the refrigerant for first time fill up.
very good guy
Helpful video...thanks
Do you always add the oil before connecting the compressor? I changed my compressor pretty sure didn't put any oil in and the bee compressor failed after 5 days
If you change the compressor make sure when u get refrigerant for it u get the cans made for first time fill of system because the oil is mixed in with the coolant.
Where can I find the o-rings ? That you repaced
Do you have to refill the gas after installation
Refrigerant? Yes, it needs to be charged. This lets all of the refrigerant out.
I bought a new compressor , it say that contains 8oz of oil and need to add more for vehicles equipped with rear AC , my question is how much more ?
Prob about the same as in the front. Like if 5 oz in system w out a rear, add 5 more with rear. Find out where to add the pag before pouring it all in only ONE spot! *Good Luck*