This is remarkable. after 3 years of this great vid. still answering worried folks questions. Respect Sir. I'm not worried anymore after watching yr vid. Thank you 👍
2006 Hyundai Elantra. The compressor itself was OK, but the clutch and pulley were both bad, and a new compressor doesn't cost much more than those, so I got a new Mando compressor. I'll change the dessicant bag at the end, too. Anyway, I'm doing the "oil balancing" part now, and almost no oil came out of the old compressor. What? I got maybe 10cc (1/3 of one ounce) of very clean oil out of it, that's it. I would have expected there to be at least 75cc since the system capacity is 150cc (5.1 oz). I drained the new OE compressor and got about 100cc. According to "oil balancing" rules, I would put practically nothing (only 10cc) back into the new compressor, but that doesn't make sense to me. I'm tempted to put back ALL 100cc and just go with that. What do you think?
I remember that "Dumb" oil balance step. I have drained 100 old compressors. We were lucky if 2 Oz's came out, and that was a system that used 8 Oz's for system capacity. Here is my Oil lesson video : ruclips.net/video/by8LpYAHNHE/видео.html Thank you for the views and the question.
What happens if you add the oil to both ports and then install it. Which is what I did Not really knowing which port to add it to. I haven't turn the system on yet and after seeing this video. I'm going to remove it and drain it.
Thank you for the view and the question. Correct oil level is IMPORTANT . I have drained 100's of new and reman compressors. Rarely do they have the oil the instructions claim. Draining the compressor is no big deal. I like to turn the clutch to work the guts of the compressor during the draining. I also like to turn the clutch AFTER adding half of system capacity. If for put oil in the discharge port, it will pump out of the compressor. Break a Leg / Good Luck on your repair my You Tube friend.
Thanks for this very well done video. I saw only 2 other videos today that showed them putting PAG oil into the accumulator. So, let me get this straight. If my compressor calls for 6 oz. (a guess) of oil, then I should only put about 3.5 oz. of oil into it, and the other 2.5 oz. into the accumulator. Correct ? I am going to be replacing the compressor, accumulator with hose assembly, and the orifice tube filter, so I need to know these things.
You are Welcome. I like oil. I like one extra oz. of oil above what it calls for. The manufacturer barely puts enough oil to start with. Put half the oil in the compressor and rotate it clockwise a few turns slowly...do not rotate so fast the the oil starts to come out of the compressor. Put the other half in the accumulator. IMPORTANT... if the tube is dirty with the compressor guts, you will need to flush the condenser until it is clean, If the tube is very dirty, it is best to replace the condenser because all the newer vehicles use multi-cross-flow condensers with tiny passages that are near impossible to clean out. Good luck and break a leg. Thank you for the comment.
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 At this point I don't think the compressor imploded. The clutch went out on it. I bought a used compressor almost a year ago before I knew anything about them and what to listen for. I just got back to it this morning. there is a ringing sound when I spin the wheel. So to be safe and not sorry, I'm going to buy a new one. And also this morning I placed the new accumulator with the hose assembly above the old one (still installed in the engine bay) and found that the hose kinks at the bend near the firewall, so that has to go back, and I'll have to reorder one of those. Which means that the only part that I have that appears to be the correct part is the orifice tube filter. So I'm delayed in this repair for at least a couple of weeks. Good times. Thanks again for your very important and informative video.
Great videos. Installing a new york style compressor on 1964 lincoln. One side has bolt for purging oil. The other side where my original had a fill bolt has a cap on it. Is TCC being cheap not wanting to supply bolts?
I'm trying to remember...I can say the oil fill hole takes a metal plug which is different from a mounting bolt. Thank you for the view and the question. Break a Leg / Good Luck on your repairs.
Great video sir! Question how about when clutch is not engaging when AC is Turned on yes Tested clutch with Test Probe clicks in So fuse is good. blower motor works>just blows hot air ,Clutch will turn freely with fingers with not much resistance on all my other vehicles it does have resistance! Does this mean AC compressor is Bad?
The # One reason the clutches don't turn on is because the system has to have at less 45 psi of Freon pressure. If it has enough psi, the problem is electrical. Pressure switch / temp switch / No not bad compressor. Thank you for the view and the question. Break a Leg / Good Luck on your repairs my You Tube Friend.
Thank you for great tutor video. For system with expansion valve and built in drier on condenser (like 2010 Honda Civic). Can we add the other half of oil to evaporator and condenser?
Thank you for sharing your knowledge, first time changing out a car ac compressor. I'm an residential hvac tech every thing seems the same but not so had to do my research
The Basic Idea: Half in the compressor / the other half in the Drier. Thank you for the question and the view. Break a Leg / Good Luck on your repairs.
Thank you for the view and the question. Each vehicle is different. Some smaller vehicles call for as little as 4 Oz's, some larger vehicles call for 15 Oz's. There may be a sticker under the hood with information about the type and amount of PAG. Auto Zone may be able to tell you. You can look it up on the internet. I would get two references and they should be very close. Thank you again and Good Luck on your repair.
COOL ! Thank you for the view and that very positive comment. I have a playlist on automotive AC. I think 14 lessons / videos on AC. I hope you check them out. Thank you again.
Car calls for 5oz oil. Replacing compressor, dryer and expansion. So 3.5 oz in compressor the rest somewhere else. My question is How do i account for some of the oil that is still in the system? Thanks
Use some AC flush. You can get some at the auto parts. It is very helpful if you have some compressed air to "Chase" the flush. Flushing cleans the system and helps to remove the old oil. Break a Leg / Good Luck on your repair.
The best video on youtube to explain SYSTEM oil specs and how that breaks down to % that goes into the compressor and the rest into the accumulator. My 1995 F350 calls for 7 ounce of oil for the system. I put 4 in the compressor and 3cin the new accumulator.
Thank you for that awesome comment and the view. Also I recommend not to be bashful with the oil. The specs are the minimum the factory can get away with. I almost always add an extra ounce to factory specs. But do not add extra Freon.
WOW THATZ WHY THEE OLDER MECHANICS, no offense, R THE SHIT CUZ THEY DO EVERYTHING LOOK, LISTEN, AND FEEL JUST THE WAY MY UNCLE TAUGHT ME, THANK U KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK. 👍👍👍
How are you Sir? Quick question? I own a 2021 Acura ILX, and if the A/C isn’t blowing ice cold this summer, would it be a good idea to buy a can of AC PRO, or something, with a gauge, and check to see if it’s in the specs of the gauge?
I screwed up and put 3 oz too much into my compressor. Now it won't cool. I didn't run it long. Can I remedy the problem by removing the compressor and draining it or do you think I will need to flush out the system? 05 Nissan xterra. Great video!
Too much oil makes the pressure go too high. Gauge reading are very helpful. Do you know what the pressures are ? Too much Freon is more common a problem than too much oil. Thank you for the views and the question.
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 Turns out the New Four Seasons Expansion valve I installed a little over a year ago failed. I wanted to do it right and replace all the parts to make sure there was no contamination in the system since the compressor went bad. But, at the time I was convinced to buy a "low mileage" used compressor. That compressor did work pretty good, but it was a little too noisy, so I wanted to install the new compressor b4 it went bad and destroyed my clean system. The A/c stopped working the day b4 I installed the new compressor and I just thought it was probably due to the old compressor. So, I installed the new one and still nothing, then I discovered it might be a bad expansion valve. The factory Expansion valve was still working when I removed it (18 yrs old). Even the New Four Seasons Compressor is a bit noisy, but it is working well now with the new expansion valve. Point of the story is the all of these Aftermarket products are pretty much all chinese garbage. Fortunately I didn't have to remove the dash to install the new valve. If so I would have used OEM parts and from now on I will only use OEM parts
@@eminiscalperpro9729 We all learned the Hard way...using after market parts. It's A "Joke" (bad joke) how bad these after market parts are. Thank you for sharing your experience.
i have cb a 2013 scion tc the freon is full ac turns on , Ac starts off cold then gets warm, i’m going to change myself. should i flush out the ac system first?
ruclips.net/video/RpsgEZydGiM/видео.html Yes Flush the system. I have used the above product. It works great. I also use compressed air like the video. Thank you for the view and the question. Good Luck my You Tube Friend.
I replaced my rear AC condenser, valve, front condenser and valve plus dryer, new lines to the back, compressor. My question is can I blow out the old oil that may be left, I know I lost some on the ground and compressor has 0 as of now , didn't know to put it in first. Do I blow out old tho so I know it won't be over filled?
Yes you can blow out the remaining oil. In fact, it would be a very good idea to get that oil out. The auto parts (or online) sell a can of pressurized AC flush. It works great. Thank you for the view and the question. Break a Leg / Good luck my You Tube Friend.
Thank you for the view and the question. I'm not sure I understand the question. The only time we took the compressor apart was to show the student the failures inside. Fifty years ago we would reseal / rebuild compressors. We don't do that any more. Some factories rebuild compressors.
The year is 2023 October 21. I’m 47 years old. And I just learned something new. Thank you. This is going into my 1995 BMW 325IS the problem is I bought the compressor used and it was already empty. I filled it with a couple ounces and spun it by hand, and it was kind of squeaky, but it’s getting better now that I left it alone for like an hour I think I’ll just fill it with a couple of ounces let it sit overnight drain it and then put new fluid in it again with proper measurement just to make sure it’s clean inside 6:10
Great video! I wish I had an instructor like you when I was in HVAC school 20+ years ago. I work in residential/light commercial but never auto. I have a question for you. I will be repairing an older neighbor’s 2004 F150 after hearing his compressor rattling. There is still enough life in the compressor for me to get pressure readings within an acceptable range. He stated he had the whole AC system replaced in 2021 and it looks fairly new. I also probed for leaks and didn’t detect any. I can pick up a new compressor at our local auto store right now, but it’s labeled as dry and needs 6.75oz of PAG 46 oil. Is it possible for me to swap out the compressor without putting a new accumulator? Can I fill the suction hole on the compressor with 6.75oz of PAG 46 oil that is labeled on the sticker, rotate it slowly 10 times, hook the lines back up, pull a vacuum, and recharge to get him by until he figures out what he wants to do long term?
It's usually a good idea to replace the accumulator or drier. I believe you get a "Longer" warrantee from the auto parts. In fact, some auto parts will give 30 day warrantee if you don't buy the accumm. And another reason to replace the accumm is helps to get the correct amount of oil in the system. Yes you can pour oil into suction hose and turn compressor like you stated. Break a Leg / Good Luck my You Tube friend.
My 1967 Lincoln A/C compressor manual (car is a 1968 but supplement manual says refer to 1967) manual refers to say to use Suniso 5 or Capella E refrigerator compressor oil or equivalent. Not been able to find this for my R12 compressor. Could you please recommend what I might use. I see some refrigeration units use mineral oil with paraffin and without. Somewhat confused. Thank you. Love your videos!!
Thank you for the views, that positive review, and the question. What refrigerant are you going to use ? If you use R 12 : use mineral oil / paraffin. The "Factory" name for the oil was what you said. The "Generic" name or the same oil is mineral. If your going to use R 134a : use "Ester" refrigeration oil. Break a leg / Good luck.
Hello! Resently i have changed my Car's AC Compressor. But Still experiencing cooling issues. Some says its becase of the amount of oil. I have Suzuki Alto 2010 DBA-HA25S Car, 95201-58J40 Compressor. It Has writen 320 ±30g. What does this means and How much oil do i have to fill it (in ml)? Please Help.
Hello, +_ means plus or minus 30 grams. I like oil, the more the better. I would put 320 plus 30 = 350 grams. Before we blame the amount of oil, we need to know what the pressures are. Like the low side pressure and the high side pressure. Also most newer vehicle (2000 up) have passages in the condenser that are very small and get restricted very easy with a failed compressor. The pressure would show sighs of a restriction. Good luck and thank you for the view and the question.
Awesome video, I'm just learning about all this because my mechanic says my compressor went bad. I'm going to attempt to replace the compressor, I'm also going to replace the drier. Do you think it is necessary to replace the condenser as well? Is there any thing else that i haven't mentioned that i should replace?
If the "Guts" (internal parts of the compressor) came loose, they go straight to the condenser causing a restriction. Compressors do not have to get noisy to spill the guts, but if it was noisy, replace the condenser. I is better to replace the condenser but, stay away from the super cheap Chinese parts. They either don't fir correctly or they don't last (leaks). Thank you for the views and the question. Break a Leg / Good Luck.
I will replace my bmw F10 compressor, condenser, expansion valve plus cleaning the lines and the evaporator with R11. Manufacture says oil amount is 150 ml and i’m worrying while installation that my replacement one doesn’t have oil or have very few oil in it, so in this case how much oil should i put?
It is EZ EZ EZ to drain and add to the replacement compressor. No big deal at all. If you what to practice, drain the old compressor, expect little to no oil to come out. add any fluid in the old one, for practice. It's that EZ. I even don't have to wish you good luck, it's that EZ. Good luck anyway. Thank you for the view and the question. Drain the new compressor and add half of system capacity.
Thank you for the question. It would be a good idea to add at least one more ounce of oil (maybe 2) during or after the charging. Some charge stations are able to let the vacuum to pull some oil in right before the charging. If the station does not do that, oil can be added after the charge using a pressurized 2 ounce can od oil. Break a Leg / Good Luck my You Tube friend.
Hi sir 2 months ago i bought a refurbished ac compressor on amazon and it said it was pre refilled with oil but this morning when i turned on the ac it made a horrible rattling sound that came from my ac clutch.The 10 mm bolt broke and the wheel was making awful sounds i did not checked the refurbished compressor for oil since their website says that it comes prefilled.please help! What can i do? Why did the bolt brake if the shaft still spins.
I wish I could tell you exactly what the problem is. Did the bolt break or did it fall off? Bolts break for three reasons: 1. - very poor quality bolt 2- exposed to much stress or force 3- it was over tightened. It is an "Un-Funny Joke" how poor quality replacement parts are today. When the price of parts first started to go down, I thought this is great, until I started to see how these cheap parts either don't last very long or just don't fitt correctly. Draining the replacement compressor is not hard (EZ). Rarely do the compressors come when a good amount of oil to begin with. Thank you for the view and the question. Good luck on future repairs.
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 the 10mm bolt broke off from the head and the other part stay in the shaft.I will buy another and I will follow this video step by step. I called Ry compressors and they told me that there compressor came prefilled but when I tried to see if there was oil in it and nothing came out. That is killing me since it is a 2007 Saturn aura,you probably know it is a pain in the butt just to take it off bit well hopefully i lerned from this
Great video! However, as a newbie to ac, I have a question. After filling the compressor and drier with the correct amount of pag oil, wouldn't some of the oil be sucked out during the deep vacuum? What am I missing here.
Thank you for the view, the comment, and the question. Some of the oil comes out mostly the recovery (or venting) . Very little might come out during evacuation. Good luck on your repairs.
Spin on the work table? Spin to the running engine? If it's a "Pancake" compressor / R 4...those are hard to turn by hand. Use a socket and ratchet. Than you for the view and the question. Good luck / Break a leg.
How much oil do you add if the system has not been flushed. If the system capacity is 6 oz. isn't there some oil in the system already when you're just replacing the compressor?
Thank you for the view and the question. I like oil. I like extra oil. You almost have to double the dose before you put too much that it causes problems (increased psi) Ask me how I know. . I suggest you put 5 ounces of oil . Thank you again.
Question: On denso's nd 8 oil packaging it states to put the oil in through the discharge manifold of the compressor. Kindly do address why does denso recommend that?
Thank you for the view and the question. The reason I suggest pouring the oil into the suction manifold of the compressor is before we install it onto the engine, it's a good idea to rotate the compressor by hand using a tool. We do this for two reasons. One is to make sure all the oil doesn't wind up in one cylinder creating liquid lock. The other reason is to evenly spread the oil throughout all the cylinders and moving parts. Pouring the oil into the discharge manifold and then rotating the compressor by hand will cause the oil to come out of the discharge port.
Thank u for this video .. my question is in which hose to put the other half of oil in case the dryer is integrated with the condenser.. the suction hose or the discharge one
There is no EPA requirement for a 'private person' to evacuate an AC system. Huge misconception. Also today's Freon does not contain CFCs as did the R-12. It comes from outside the system therefore can return to it.
Thank you for the view and the comment. I'm trying to figure out what you are saying. I think you have "Evacuate" mixed up with "Recover". Recover the refrigerant means to remove it from the vehicle and store inside the machine for later use. Evacuate means to pull a deep vacuum on an empty system to boil out the moisture that has entered the system when the system is opened. Anyway...thank you for your tome.
There are at least 5 different oils used by the different motor companies. Use the one it calls for. The auto parts should be a be to tell which one to use. The bearing on the pully is a sealed bearing and does not require adding lubrication. Thank you for the question and the view. Good Luck on your repairs.
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 This week I drove my Kangoo 2006 K4M through flooded streets. The AC compressor hangs at the bottom, I think the ball bearing is whining from the pulley. There is probably no vent on that pump so it contains water instead of oil. I'm going to take the belt off to listen and turn the pulleys.
@@den.staar124 Sorry to hear about your wet bearing. Yes water will damage any bearings it touches. Good Luck on the problem. Thank you for the view and the comment.
Sir you just saved my ass! thank you! i will try retro fitting ac in to my na miata and i couldn't find basic info like this even in the workshop manual.. coming from an aircraft electronics engineer sir you are a great teacher!
Great and well organized video! Question: 1. there is a draining port on my Denso compressor, should I add oil into that port or into the suction port? 2. After I put half of the oil inside compressor can I install the unit and use vacuum to pull another half in from low pressure/high pressure port?
Thank you for the view, that positive comment, and the questions. 1. Yes you can pour into the drain hole, don't forget to rotate the clutch to help spread the oil around and put the caps on during the installation. 2. I like to pour the other half of the oil into the accumulator or drier. Yes you add the oil into the low pressure port. Yes do a vacuum. Thank you again and good luck on your future repairs.
I found a very good video. Thank you very much! I have a question for the doctor. It is about the oil fill location. In the MAHLE video, the oil was drained from the drain bolt and the injection was also done through the drain bolt. Could you please give me your opinion on this method?
They don't build them like they use to. In the beginning, 1940 Packard, all AC compressors had Drain plugs that could also be used as fill holes. Sure enough, they used fewer and fewer plugs. If the compressor has a Drain/Fill hole, "Use It". Thank you for the views and the question.
I have a compressor that is starting to make noise. It still works fine currently. I plan to replace the compressor before it gets worse so i plan to replace the compressor and dryer only. When doing so, do I add the full amount of PAG oil that is required in the system or do I need to account for the oil that is still in the lines etc?
Correctly "Guessing" at the amount of oil that is in the system ( lines / evap /condenser / other) is impossible. The "Only" way to say that the system is empty of oil is to do three things: flush lines, evap and the condenser. It not that hard to flush the system. Get one or two cans of pressurized flush in a can. Compressed air is a great chaser for the flush. Add half of system capacity to the compressor and the rest of the oil either in the accumulator or drier. Thank you for the view and the question.
It is very good and detailed film on changing oil in the compressor, so many tips, thank you very much. If I need to replace the oil fm the compressor and not sure what exactly oil is there, can I flush it out? Is it possible? With the special flush liquid, like what we use to flush the evaporator e. g. The car AC (it is 2001 Saturn SL2) works on PAG oil (that is what Shop Manual says, they don't specify which PAG of 3 types). PAG oil comes in 3 types 46, 100, 150. As far as I understand you can use any, but you can't mix them. The car was in the dealer shop like 10 years ago, and they replaced the compressor 3 times, but shortly after AC stopped working anyway. I think that is bcs they didn't replaced the Condenser, I've read that the clogged Condenser can cause the Compressor to fail. I'm replacing everything besides the Evaporator (which I will flush of course) I think. Or if so little oil is left after proper draining it doesn't matter what PAG was there? Thank you again.
Thank you for the view, the nice comments, and the questions. Yes, you can use the AC flush in the compressor. In fact, I would pour some in, and then rotate the compressor by hand, drain it out and repeat at least once or twice more if you want to get all the mystery oil out of it. Somewhere there should be some information about the correct PAG. 46 is the most common. But again, somewhere there should be the information, I like to use the correct PAG.
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 Thank you very much for the detailed replay. That is what I will do to flush out completely what is inside of that compressor. I think at that time when the car was made there was probably only one oil, what is now PAG 46. And that is why they say just PAG in Shop Manual. I see now all the aftermarket compressors for that car come w/PAG 100, so better go with that one. Especially as I will flush the Evaporator and replace all the hoses, condenser, receiver drier, and expansion valve. Thank you again for that advice w/compressor, I thought to do so, but was not sure.
Question: After installing the compressor and the accumulator, once the system is closed, should I carry out the vacuum process immediately or can this wait until I take the vehicle to a workshop the next day? I ask because I plan to install everything and take the vehicle to a workshop to charge.
Thank you for the view and the question. You do NOT have to vacuum immediately. So long as the system is closed you can vacuum and charge later. That was a very good question. Good luck my You Tube friend.
How to go about the compressor, which has a low pressure port on the bottom of its cylinder, on the side opposite to the clutch side? So the hole is just under the red circle @2:24, where that central void is. The High port is in the same position like in the compressor shown in this film @5:52. So the Low and High ports are not on the same plane. The hole for Low P port doesn't have any oil around. Should I still use it to fill the compressor and then plugged it in before install? I removed that compressor and now need to clean properly and fill in w/new PAG 100, but in doubts about the procedure, since the shape is different fm/the compressors shown here. Thank you for your film again.
Drain the compressor to make sure it is empty. Then slowly pour half of system capacity into the larger opening of the compressor. Turn the clutch in the clockwise direction slowly to get the oil spread out inside the compressor. Cap off the openings and install. Good luck my you tube friend.
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 Thank you for the replay and advices. May I double check, clockwise direction that is when you look on the pulley (or clutch), yes? Not from another side, yes? Special thanks for those details, that you rotate slow, certain direction, and poor slowly. Thank you, thank you!
It sounds like you installed your own compressor. If you added the Freon yourself, I suggest you buy a pressurized can of 2 oz PAG oil (includes 2 oz of Freon) and add it. There is a 50 / 50 chance the compressor has enough oil. Thank you for the view and the question.
Thank you for the views and the comment. Some of the comments said that the instructions that came with the replacement compressor said to put it in the discharge. I have assisted students add oil to the compressor 100's of time. I would sometime show then to do it Wrong so they could see that the oil would start to come out almost as some as you rotated the clutch. Thank you again.
It is "Usually" better to replace the drier, But you don't have to. When I would do a "Test Charge" : add florescent dye / a bunch of oil / and just enough Freon to cool the people down / let them operate vehicle until it acts up (one week to one month) I would not replace the drier. I replace the drier after I find and fix the leaks. Thank you for the view and the question. Good Luck.
"ALL" seals need lubrication. The lube is IMPORTANT for two reasons: First the lube is a big part of the "Sealing" process. In fact, without the lube the seals are likely to leak right away or for sure later down the line. Second reason all seals should be lubricated is the lube "Helps" to prevent damage to the seal during installation. Also the lube helps to make the installation EZ'er. I suggest that you use the correct oil that goes in the system that you are working with (no Dielectric) Break a Leg / Good Luck my You Tube Friend.
@@earnestodom1900 Orifice tubes come in different shapes and passage size. I just get the one it calls for. I hope I was of some help. Break a Leg / Good Luck.
Ok, so im replacing the entire system (compressor, condenser, lines, etc), i was told to fill the compressor with the maximum amount of pag oil on my vehicle. The proper way would be to put half in the compressor and the other half in the condenser?
Sometimes you can get away with it, filling the compressor with the entire system capacity. It's a better idea not to fill the compressor because it is possible to damage the compressor by causing "Liquid Lock". You can put 3/4 of the capacity in the compressor and the rest in the drier or accumulator. Thank you for the view and the question. I have a playlist of AC videos. I hope you check some of them out. Thanks again.
@theoldmecanicoshow9004 ok so to avoid hydro lock just put the other 1/4 anywhere else then? I'll just add the rest to the evaporator or the condensor and be good right? I appreciate the knowledge you provided though, it's helping out a lot.
@@iknuggz2842 One more thing. You add the oil to the compressor on the work table. After you add the oil , turn the clutch by hand or with a tool. That helps to spread the oil around to all the cylinders. Break a Leg / Good Luck.
I liked this video. I have a question and maybe you can help. I have a 1999 ford ranger 2.5 that says my a/c system holds 9 oz of pag 46 oil. My condenser had a leak in it and am going to change the drier, compresser and condenser. My new compresser says it came with 7 oz of oil which it tells me to empty and replace it with half which is 3.5 oz. Where do I put the other 3.5 ounces of oil and how do I get it to the factory 9 ounces? Thank you for your time.
Thank you for the view and the question. Drain the compressor and don't be surprised when it has less than 7 ounces. I would add half of the system capacity which is 4 1/2 ounces to the compressor. Add 4 1/2 more ounces to the dryer. You do not want 9 ounces in the compressor when it starts up. The idea is you get half of system capacity in the compressor and the other half in the dryer or accumulator. On the newer vehicles that have the drying sack as part of the condenser, it can be pretty tough to get the oil in because the plug is at the bottom. Good luck on your repair and thank you again my RUclips friend.
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 so you say to drain the new compresser like the instructions tell me to and than add 4 1/2 ounces to the compresser and 4 1/2 ounces to the drier and nothing in the new condenser. should I put the oil in the new drier last and close it before hooking everything up so moisture doesnt get in it or what? thank you for your time.
@@wisfull11 Yes, yes, and yes. You are very correct about putting the dryer last to avoid moisture. All of these steps are very important to make the AC blow cold and to a last long time. Don't worry about putting oil in the condenser. When the system begins to operate, oil will circulate through the entire system. Very good questions. Good luck on your repairs. I am glad I can help.
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 so to be correct just add 4 1/2 ounces to my compresser and that's all I need to do as you say when everything is put together the system will distribute the oil thru out the system, but wouldn't the 4 1/2 ounces be less than the 9 oz my system calls for? I know am asking alot of questions, but want to learn to do it right. thank you for your time
Drain the replacement compressor (new / reman / used). Add 3 -4 Oz's to replacement compressor. Add 3 oz to drier. Pull a vacuum and charge. Break a Leg / Good luck.
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 yes i drained the new compressor overnight. so eventhough i am only replacing a compressor, i will still have to put the whole ac systems capacity? (half in the new compressor plus one and half of it somewhere in the system). what about the oil sitting in the rest of the systems components?
@@ohsum8326 It's EZ to say the system is empty of Freon, the gauges read zero. To say the system is empty of oil requires three things: drain the compressor / replace the drier accumulator / and flush the system. You should flush as much of the system as possible. The auto parts sells cans of pressurized AC flush that does a good job. It is also very helpful to have compressed air to flush the flush. Good luck my You Tube Friend,
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 Thank you for the free education Sir. Now that ive done all of the things youve instructed. I dont know where to add the remaining oil into the system since the drier and accumulator is integrated with the condenser (2012 toyota tacoma prerunner V6 4.0L). If i add the oil into discharge liquid hose after the condenser wouldnt the oil get sucked out when i pull a vacuum?
@@ohsum8326 Yes that is a little problem. The opening for the drier is on the bottom right? I would pour the rest of the oil at the beginning of the suction hose (near the firewall). If you can't pour, use a clean oil pump can. Break a Leg / Good Luck.
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 yes, the new “washers” have the rubber mixed in like the old ones. The issue is I have a leak after pulling vacuum, and I was wondering if these needed “extra” o-rings. After digging around all morning I’m thinking they do not need o-rings.
@@TheRoblcjr The metal washers can come different thickness. Were the new ones the same thickness? No extra o-rungs are needed. So the system does NOT hold the vacuum? The leak can be almost anywhere.
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 ok, yes the washers are the same as the old ones. I was hoping I left out something simple like o-rings. Haha. Just ordered a leak kit to see if I can find the leak. Hopefully not the heating core behind the dash. Working with a 2002 Corvette. Everything is packed in tight.
@@TheRoblcjr Pulling a deep vacuum and checking to see if it would hold the vacuum after the pump is turned off is one way to see if there is a leak. Unfortunately it does NOT hint where the leak might be. The new AC stations (AC Machines) test for leaks by seeing if the system holds vacuum. I the AC station says you have a leak, we would disconnect the AC station and connect the nitrogen bottle to the system and pressurize the system. Then we would use "Bubble" leak detector to find the leak. That works for everything except the evaporator. However, if there is no leak under the hood, the leak is inside the dash. Replacing the evap is a HUGE repair. In fact, replacing the evap was the only component by class would do because it was impractical for my student because they only worked on AC one day a week. There were a few times the customer would chose to get a different vehicle instead of paying $2500 to replace the evap. It's kind-of-like "Totaling" the vehicle because the AC didn't work. Ha Ha.
Thank you for the question and the view. Some people would say to disconnect the battery to do almost any repair. Disconnect the battery is safer BUT, it could lose important computer memory that will cause the vehicle to have to "Relearn" certain information. I will leave a link on the next reply that will explain more about the lose of "Keep Alive Memory".
I flushed the system well (including removed Compressor), let it dry for 3-4 days, and started to put everything back. Before I was adding oil into components. I started from the Evaporator, bcs its tubes were opened for flushing and following drying process. And also you need to attach the Expansion Valve, which will close the tubes. So I measured oil PAG 100 2.25 Oz as recommended for the Evaporator in Shop Manual and started to inject it w/small plastic syringe. The Evaporator took 1.25 Oz, but then the oil started to come out, and I couldn't add anymore. initially I injected the oil into the higher opening, when it couldn't accept anymore I tried to use the smaller bottom hole, but the oil was coming out again. So if I added only 1.25 oz into Evaporator, can I add a bit more into the Drier (by Manual I should add 1 oz)? I think to add 1.25 oz into the Drier, and a bit more then recommended into the Condenser to compensate the difference. Or it is better to add just in hoses? Thank you for your lectures again. It is very helpful for those who try to master a bit car AC system.
It looks like you are doing an excellent job. The oil and the refrigerant start to circulate quickly though the entire system when the compressor starts to operate. I usually put half of system capacity into the compressor and the other half in to accumulator or drier. The only time it gets tough to add the oil to the drier is when the drier uses a replacement bag into the built in drier on the condenser because the hole is on the bottom. The idea is to split the total oil around the system. You dont have to add oil to each part because the Freon and oil will circulate quickly. Good luck on your repair and I am glad I was of some help.
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 Thank you, thank you! In this work I try my best, but feel how little I know, and auto-mechanics look to me more and more like extraterrestrials. I have very usual Drier (the exact name of it is Receiver-Dehydrator). I poured 1.25 oz into it via smaller tube w.same syringe with no problems. It was kind of difficult to install it, since you need to bend a bit attaching parts, and I realized it later. So it took some time, but I installed it. In the area of Expansion Valve it is hard to torque to specs, bcs of so limited space, so torque wrench touches all the time smth. with its head. Thank you kindly again.
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 I installed all the AC components back, but the system didn't held vacuum. I pressurized it w/compressed air using compressor and found a huge leak, unfortunately fm/ Evaporator, it was around that plate on which 2 lines of the Evaporator are coming out. There is some kind of foam around that plate and the air is coming fm/the slit between the plate and the foam. I think the only solution for the AC now to replace the Evaporator.
one word sir you are the MAN.
Awesome...! Thank You. That Helps to keep me Going...
That is four words but yes , he is pretty good.
Really great lesson. Had me engaged the whole time!
Awesome...! Thank you for the view and that Cool comment.
That’s got to be a lie surely😂. A lot of waffle and a condescending way of speaking was too painful to make it through for me
This is remarkable. after 3 years of this great vid. still answering worried folks questions. Respect Sir.
I'm not worried anymore after watching yr vid. Thank you 👍
You are a professor for sure , thanks!!
Your very Welciome
2006 Hyundai Elantra. The compressor itself was OK, but the clutch and pulley were both bad, and a new compressor doesn't cost much more than those, so I got a new Mando compressor. I'll change the dessicant bag at the end, too. Anyway, I'm doing the "oil balancing" part now, and almost no oil came out of the old compressor. What? I got maybe 10cc (1/3 of one ounce) of very clean oil out of it, that's it. I would have expected there to be at least 75cc since the system capacity is 150cc (5.1 oz). I drained the new OE compressor and got about 100cc. According to "oil balancing" rules, I would put practically nothing (only 10cc) back into the new compressor, but that doesn't make sense to me. I'm tempted to put back ALL 100cc and just go with that. What do you think?
I remember that "Dumb" oil balance step. I have drained 100 old compressors. We were lucky if 2 Oz's came out, and that was a system that used 8 Oz's for system capacity. Here is my Oil lesson video : ruclips.net/video/by8LpYAHNHE/видео.html
Thank you for the views and the question.
Good video before starting a AC compressor job...
Thank you for the v view and that positive comment.
I enjoyed and learned a lot from your video, thank you.
You are Welcome and thank you for the view and that nice comment.
So bossy. If it use 4 ounce. Can I put 2 ounce in the ac compressor. .an the next 2 ounce in the condenser?
What happens if you add the oil to both ports and then install it. Which is what I did Not really knowing which port to add it to. I haven't turn the system on yet and after seeing this video. I'm going to remove it and drain it.
Thank you for the view and the question. Correct oil level is IMPORTANT . I have drained 100's of new and reman compressors. Rarely do they have the oil the instructions claim. Draining the compressor is no big deal. I like to turn the clutch to work the guts of the compressor during the draining. I also like to turn the clutch AFTER adding half of system capacity. If for put oil in the discharge port, it will pump out of the compressor. Break a Leg / Good Luck on your repair my You Tube friend.
thanks for sharing your knowledge with us, GRACIAS!
You are Welcome and Thank You for the comment and the views.
Very good information keep it up God bless 👍
Thank you sir! I just swapped out the 24 year old compressor on my ZR2 and had zero issues thank's to your video.
Thank you, Super video very helpful. looking forward to watching more 🙂
Thanks for this very well done video. I saw only 2 other videos today that showed them putting PAG oil into the accumulator. So, let me get this straight. If my compressor calls for 6 oz. (a guess) of oil, then I should only put about 3.5 oz. of oil into it, and the other 2.5 oz. into the accumulator. Correct ? I am going to be replacing the compressor, accumulator with hose assembly, and the orifice tube filter, so I need to know these things.
You are Welcome. I like oil. I like one extra oz. of oil above what it calls for. The manufacturer barely puts enough oil to start with. Put half the oil in the compressor and rotate it clockwise a few turns slowly...do not rotate so fast the the oil starts to come out of the compressor. Put the other half in the accumulator. IMPORTANT... if the tube is dirty with the compressor guts, you will need to flush the condenser until it is clean, If the tube is very dirty, it is best to replace the condenser because all the newer vehicles use multi-cross-flow condensers with tiny passages that are near impossible to clean out. Good luck and break a leg. Thank you for the comment.
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 At this point I don't think the compressor imploded. The clutch went out on it. I bought a used compressor almost a year ago before I knew anything about them and what to listen for. I just got back to it this morning. there is a ringing sound when I spin the wheel. So to be safe and not sorry, I'm going to buy a new one. And also this morning I placed the new accumulator with the hose assembly above the old one (still installed in the engine bay) and found that the hose kinks at the bend near the firewall, so that has to go back, and I'll have to reorder one of those. Which means that the only part that I have that appears to be the correct part is the orifice tube filter. So I'm delayed in this repair for at least a couple of weeks. Good times. Thanks again for your very important and informative video.
Great videos. Installing a new york style compressor on 1964 lincoln. One side has bolt for purging oil. The other side where my original had a fill bolt has a cap on it. Is TCC being cheap not wanting to supply bolts?
I'm trying to remember...I can say the oil fill hole takes a metal plug which is different from a mounting bolt. Thank you for the view and the question. Break a Leg / Good Luck on your repairs.
Great video sir! Question how about when clutch is not engaging when AC is Turned on yes Tested clutch with Test Probe clicks in So fuse is good. blower motor works>just blows hot air ,Clutch will turn freely with fingers with not much resistance on all my other vehicles it does have resistance! Does this mean AC compressor is Bad?
The # One reason the clutches don't turn on is because the system has to have at less 45 psi of Freon pressure. If it has enough psi, the problem is electrical. Pressure switch / temp switch / No not bad compressor.
Thank you for the view and the question.
Break a Leg / Good Luck on your repairs my You Tube Friend.
Thank you for great tutor video. For system with expansion valve and built in drier on condenser (like 2010 Honda Civic). Can we add the other half of oil to evaporator and condenser?
Yes you can add the rest of the oil in the condenser or drier. Thank you for the view, the question and that awesome comment.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge, first time changing out a car ac compressor. I'm an residential hvac tech every thing seems the same but not so had to do my research
Should I add oil to the condenser ports as well? York install on 1964 lincoln
The Basic Idea: Half in the compressor / the other half in the Drier. Thank you for the question and the view. Break a Leg / Good Luck on your repairs.
How much pag oil would be required if you were to replace the ac system such as the compressor, condenser, and flush system?
Thank you for the view and the question. Each vehicle is different. Some smaller vehicles call for as little as 4 Oz's, some larger vehicles call for 15 Oz's. There may be a sticker under the hood with information about the type and amount of PAG. Auto Zone may be able to tell you. You can look it up on the internet. I would get two references and they should be very close. Thank you again and Good Luck on your repair.
Freaking awesome video amigo, i just subscribed 😀
COOL ! Thank you for the view and that very positive comment. I have a playlist on automotive AC. I think 14 lessons / videos on AC. I hope you check them out. Thank you again.
Car calls for 5oz oil. Replacing compressor, dryer and expansion. So 3.5 oz in compressor the rest somewhere else. My question is How do i account for some of the oil that is still in the system? Thanks
Use some AC flush. You can get some at the auto parts. It is very helpful if you have some compressed air to "Chase" the flush. Flushing cleans the system and helps to remove the old oil.
Break a Leg / Good Luck on your repair.
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 thank you 👍
Very good video and very well explained thank you sir
Awesome...! Thank you for the view and for those Positive comments.
The best video on youtube to explain SYSTEM oil specs and how that breaks down to % that goes into the compressor and the rest into the accumulator. My 1995 F350 calls for 7 ounce of oil for the system. I put 4 in the compressor and 3cin the new accumulator.
Thank you for that awesome comment and the view. Also I recommend not to be bashful with the oil. The specs are the minimum the factory can get away with. I almost always add an extra ounce to factory specs. But do not add extra Freon.
I agree with all positive comments
I do t w danegatives
Thank You.
WOW THATZ WHY THEE OLDER MECHANICS, no offense, R THE SHIT CUZ THEY DO EVERYTHING LOOK, LISTEN, AND FEEL JUST THE WAY MY UNCLE TAUGHT ME, THANK U KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK. 👍👍👍
How are you Sir? Quick question? I own a 2021 Acura ILX, and if the A/C isn’t blowing ice cold this summer, would it be a good idea to buy a can of AC PRO, or something, with a gauge, and check to see if it’s in the specs of the gauge?
I screwed up and put 3 oz too much into my compressor. Now it won't cool. I didn't run it long. Can I remedy the problem by removing the compressor and draining it or do you think I will need to flush out the system? 05 Nissan xterra. Great video!
Too much oil makes the pressure go too high. Gauge reading are very helpful. Do you know what the pressures are ?
Too much Freon is more common a problem than too much oil.
Thank you for the views and the question.
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 Turns out the New Four Seasons Expansion valve I installed a little over a year ago failed. I wanted to do it right and replace all the parts to make sure there was no contamination in the system since the compressor went bad. But, at the time I was convinced to buy a "low mileage" used compressor. That compressor did work pretty good, but it was a little too noisy, so I wanted to install the new compressor b4 it went bad and destroyed my clean system. The A/c stopped working the day b4 I installed the new compressor and I just thought it was probably due to the old compressor. So, I installed the new one and still nothing, then I discovered it might be a bad expansion valve. The factory Expansion valve was still working when I removed it (18 yrs old). Even the New Four Seasons Compressor is a bit noisy, but it is working well now with the new expansion valve. Point of the story is the all of these Aftermarket products are pretty much all chinese garbage. Fortunately I didn't have to remove the dash to install the new valve. If so I would have used OEM parts and from now on I will only use OEM parts
@@eminiscalperpro9729 We all learned the Hard way...using after market parts. It's A "Joke" (bad joke) how bad these after market parts are.
Thank you for sharing your experience.
i have cb a 2013 scion tc the freon is full ac turns on , Ac starts off cold then gets warm, i’m going to change myself. should i flush out the ac system first?
ruclips.net/video/RpsgEZydGiM/видео.html
Yes Flush the system. I have used the above product. It works great. I also use compressed air like the video. Thank you for the view and the question. Good Luck my You Tube Friend.
Lmao 😂
I replaced my rear AC condenser, valve, front condenser and valve plus dryer, new lines to the back, compressor. My question is can I blow out the old oil that may be left, I know I lost some on the ground and compressor has 0 as of now , didn't know to put it in first. Do I blow out old tho so I know it won't be over filled?
Yes you can blow out the remaining oil. In fact, it would be a very good idea to get that oil out. The auto parts (or online) sell a can of pressurized AC flush. It works great. Thank you for the view and the question. Break a Leg / Good luck my You Tube Friend.
BEST video I've seen about fixing car compressor, may you tell us how to unblock inner pistons? Thanks,
Thank you for the view and the question. I'm not sure I understand the question. The only time we took the compressor apart was to show the student the failures inside. Fifty years ago we would reseal / rebuild compressors. We don't do that any more. Some factories rebuild compressors.
The year is 2023 October 21. I’m 47 years old. And I just learned something new. Thank you. This is going into my 1995 BMW 325IS the problem is I bought the compressor used and it was already empty. I filled it with a couple ounces and spun it by hand, and it was kind of squeaky, but it’s getting better now that I left it alone for like an hour I think I’ll just fill it with a couple of ounces let it sit overnight drain it and then put new fluid in it again with proper measurement just to make sure it’s clean inside 6:10
Great video! I wish I had an instructor like you when I was in HVAC school 20+ years ago. I work in residential/light commercial but never auto. I have a question for you. I will be repairing an older neighbor’s 2004 F150 after hearing his compressor rattling. There is still enough life in the compressor for me to get pressure readings within an acceptable range. He stated he had the whole AC system replaced in 2021 and it looks fairly new. I also probed for leaks and didn’t detect any. I can pick up a new compressor at our local auto store right now, but it’s labeled as dry and needs 6.75oz of PAG 46 oil. Is it possible for me to swap out the compressor without putting a new accumulator? Can I fill the suction hole on the compressor with 6.75oz of PAG 46 oil that is labeled on the sticker, rotate it slowly 10 times, hook the lines back up, pull a vacuum, and recharge to get him by until he figures out what he wants to do long term?
It's usually a good idea to replace the accumulator or drier. I believe you get a "Longer" warrantee from the auto parts. In fact, some auto parts will give 30 day warrantee if you don't buy the accumm. And another reason to replace the accumm is helps to get the correct amount of oil in the system. Yes you can pour oil into suction hose and turn compressor like you stated. Break a Leg / Good Luck my You Tube friend.
My 1967 Lincoln A/C compressor manual (car is a 1968 but supplement manual says refer to 1967) manual refers to say to use Suniso 5 or Capella E refrigerator compressor oil or equivalent. Not been able to find this for my R12 compressor. Could you please recommend what I might use. I see some refrigeration units use mineral oil with paraffin and without. Somewhat confused. Thank you. Love your videos!!
Thank you for the views, that positive review, and the question. What refrigerant are you going to use ? If you use R 12 : use mineral oil / paraffin. The "Factory" name for the oil was what you said. The "Generic" name or the same oil is mineral. If your going to use R 134a : use "Ester" refrigeration oil. Break a leg / Good luck.
Hello! Resently i have changed my Car's AC Compressor. But Still experiencing cooling issues. Some says its becase of the amount of oil. I have Suzuki Alto 2010 DBA-HA25S Car, 95201-58J40 Compressor. It Has writen 320 ±30g. What does this means and How much oil do i have to fill it (in ml)? Please Help.
Hello,
+_ means plus or minus 30 grams. I like oil, the more the better. I would put 320 plus 30 = 350 grams. Before we blame the amount of oil, we need to know what the pressures are. Like the low side pressure and the high side pressure. Also most newer vehicle (2000 up) have passages in the condenser that are very small and get restricted very easy with a failed compressor. The pressure would show sighs of a restriction. Good luck and thank you for the view and the question.
Awesome video, I'm just learning about all this because my mechanic says my compressor went bad. I'm going to attempt to replace the compressor, I'm also going to replace the drier. Do you think it is necessary to replace the condenser as well? Is there any thing else that i haven't mentioned that i should replace?
If the "Guts" (internal parts of the compressor) came loose, they go straight to the condenser causing a restriction. Compressors do not have to get noisy to spill the guts, but if it was noisy, replace the condenser.
I is better to replace the condenser but, stay away from the super cheap Chinese parts. They either don't fir correctly or they don't last (leaks).
Thank you for the views and the question.
Break a Leg / Good Luck.
I will replace my bmw F10 compressor, condenser, expansion valve plus cleaning the lines and the evaporator with R11.
Manufacture says oil amount is 150 ml and i’m worrying while installation that my replacement one doesn’t have oil or have very few oil in it, so in this case how much oil should i put?
It is EZ EZ EZ to drain and add to the replacement compressor. No big deal at all. If you what to practice, drain the old compressor, expect little to no oil to come out. add any fluid in the old one, for practice. It's that EZ. I even don't have to wish you good luck, it's that EZ. Good luck anyway. Thank you for the view and the question. Drain the new compressor and add half of system capacity.
I installed a new compressor I did not drain oil from the new one am I cooked
Getting a vaccine pulled on it tomorrow along with recahrge
Thank you for the question. It would be a good idea to add at least one more ounce of oil (maybe 2) during or after the charging. Some charge stations are able to let the vacuum to pull some oil in right before the charging. If the station does not do that, oil can be added after the charge using a pressurized 2 ounce can od oil. Break a Leg / Good Luck my You Tube friend.
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 been about 2 weeks since the recharge.. ICE COLD
Hi sir 2 months ago i bought a refurbished ac compressor on amazon and it said it was pre refilled with oil but this morning when i turned on the ac it made a horrible rattling sound that came from my ac clutch.The 10 mm bolt broke and the wheel was making awful sounds i did not checked the refurbished compressor for oil since their website says that it comes prefilled.please help! What can i do? Why did the bolt brake if the shaft still spins.
I wish I could tell you exactly what the problem is. Did the bolt break or did it fall off? Bolts break for three reasons: 1. - very poor quality bolt 2- exposed to much stress or force 3- it was over tightened. It is an "Un-Funny Joke" how poor quality replacement parts are today. When the price of parts first started to go down, I thought this is great, until I started to see how these cheap parts either don't last very long or just don't fitt correctly. Draining the replacement compressor is not hard (EZ). Rarely do the compressors come when a good amount of oil to begin with.
Thank you for the view and the question. Good luck on future repairs.
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 the 10mm bolt broke off from the head and the other part stay in the shaft.I will buy another and I will follow this video step by step. I called Ry compressors and they told me that there compressor came prefilled but when I tried to see if there was oil in it and nothing came out. That is killing me since it is a 2007 Saturn aura,you probably know it is a pain in the butt just to take it off bit well hopefully i lerned from this
You're a life saver
I'm glad to help. Thank you for the view and that cool comment.
Great video! However, as a newbie to ac, I have a question. After filling the compressor and drier with the correct amount of pag oil, wouldn't some of the oil be sucked out during the deep vacuum? What am I missing here.
Thank you for the view, the comment, and the question. Some of the oil comes out mostly the recovery (or venting) . Very little might come out during evacuation. Good luck on your repairs.
Bought a brand new ac compressor and the clutch is still not spinning out the box, is it possible the clutch doesn’t spin? It’s a 1989 Buick lesabre
Spin on the work table? Spin to the running engine? If it's a "Pancake" compressor / R 4...those are hard to turn by hand. Use a socket and ratchet. Than you for the view and the question. Good luck / Break a leg.
Hey again sorry for the bother but I have a bmw 328xi do I need to make sure there’s no freon b4 changing the ac compressor ?
Yes, the system should be empty.
How much oil do you add if the system has not been flushed. If the system capacity is 6 oz. isn't there some oil in the system already when you're just replacing the compressor?
Thank you for the view and the question. I like oil. I like extra oil. You almost have to double the dose before you put too much that it causes problems (increased psi) Ask me how I know. . I suggest you put 5 ounces of oil . Thank you again.
So do i put half plus 1 in the compressor then the rest of the full capacity everywhere else or did i misunderstand what you said.
Yes...half + one / then the rest at the easiest place.
Break a Leg ? Good Luck.
Question: On denso's nd 8 oil packaging it states to put the oil in through the discharge manifold of the compressor. Kindly do address why does denso recommend that?
Thank you for the view and the question. The reason I suggest pouring the oil into the suction manifold of the compressor is before we install it onto the engine, it's a good idea to rotate the compressor by hand using a tool. We do this for two reasons. One is to make sure all the oil doesn't wind up in one cylinder creating liquid lock. The other reason is to evenly spread the oil throughout all the cylinders and moving parts. Pouring the oil into the discharge manifold and then rotating the compressor by hand will cause the oil to come out of the discharge port.
Why they can make a simple video how to put in the oil on it that’s it. F
Thank u for this video .. my question is in which hose to put the other half of oil in case the dryer is integrated with the condenser.. the suction hose or the discharge one
Suction hose. Thank you for the view and the question.
Break a Leg / Good Luck on your repair.
There is no EPA requirement for a 'private person' to evacuate an AC system. Huge misconception. Also today's Freon does not contain CFCs as did the R-12. It comes from outside the system therefore can return to it.
Thank you for the view and the comment. I'm trying to figure out what you are saying. I think you have "Evacuate" mixed up with "Recover". Recover the refrigerant means to remove it from the vehicle and store inside the machine for later use. Evacuate means to pull a deep vacuum on an empty system to boil out the moisture that has entered the system when the system is opened. Anyway...thank you for your tome.
Beste welke olie moet erin en zit er een apart kogelager in die poelie?
There are at least 5 different oils used by the different motor companies. Use the one it calls for. The auto parts should be a be to tell which one to use. The bearing on the pully is a sealed bearing and does not require adding lubrication. Thank you for the question and the view. Good Luck on your repairs.
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 This week I drove my Kangoo 2006 K4M through flooded streets. The AC compressor hangs at the bottom, I think the ball bearing is whining from the pulley. There is probably no vent on that pump so it contains water instead of oil. I'm going to take the belt off to listen and turn the pulleys.
@@den.staar124 Sorry to hear about your wet bearing. Yes water will damage any bearings it touches. Good Luck on the problem. Thank you for the view and the comment.
Sir you just saved my ass! thank you! i will try retro fitting ac in to my na miata and i couldn't find basic info like this even in the workshop manual.. coming from an aircraft electronics engineer sir you are a great teacher!
Awesome...! Thank you for those super positive comments. I'm so Glad to be able to help people. I guess I can't stop teaching. 😀
Great and well organized video! Question:
1. there is a draining port on my Denso compressor, should I add oil into that port or into the suction port?
2. After I put half of the oil inside compressor can I install the unit and use vacuum to pull another half in from low pressure/high pressure port?
Thank you for the view, that positive comment, and the questions. 1. Yes you can pour into the drain hole, don't forget to rotate the clutch to help spread the oil around and put the caps on during the installation. 2. I like to pour the other half of the oil into the accumulator or drier. Yes you add the oil into the low pressure port. Yes do a vacuum. Thank you again and good luck on your future repairs.
I found a very good video. Thank you very much!
I have a question for the doctor.
It is about the oil fill location.
In the MAHLE video, the oil was drained from the drain bolt and the injection was also done through the drain bolt.
Could you please give me your opinion on this method?
They don't build them like they use to. In the beginning, 1940 Packard, all AC compressors had Drain plugs that could also be used as fill holes. Sure enough, they used fewer and fewer plugs.
If the compressor has a Drain/Fill hole, "Use It". Thank you for the views and the question.
I have a compressor that is starting to make noise. It still works fine currently. I plan to replace the compressor before it gets worse so i plan to replace the compressor and dryer only. When doing so, do I add the full amount of PAG oil that is required in the system or do I need to account for the oil that is still in the lines etc?
Correctly "Guessing" at the amount of oil that is in the system ( lines / evap /condenser / other) is impossible. The "Only" way to say that the system is empty of oil is to do three things: flush lines, evap and the condenser. It not that hard to flush the system. Get one or two cans of pressurized flush in a can. Compressed air is a great chaser for the flush. Add half of system capacity to the compressor and the rest of the oil either in the accumulator or drier. Thank you for the view and the question.
Forgot thing 2 and 3: Thing 2 is drain the compressor and # 3 is replace drying element ( drier / accum)
Can I add oil to the low side of a v5 compressor
It is very good and detailed film on changing oil in the compressor, so many tips, thank you very much. If I need to replace the oil fm the compressor and not sure what exactly oil is there, can I flush it out? Is it possible? With the special flush liquid, like what we use to flush the evaporator e. g. The car AC (it is 2001 Saturn SL2) works on PAG oil (that is what Shop Manual says, they don't specify which PAG of 3 types). PAG oil comes in 3 types 46, 100, 150. As far as I understand you can use any, but you can't mix them. The car was in the dealer shop like 10 years ago, and they replaced the compressor 3 times, but shortly after AC stopped working anyway. I think that is bcs they didn't replaced the Condenser, I've read that the clogged Condenser can cause the Compressor to fail. I'm replacing everything besides the Evaporator (which I will flush of course) I think. Or if so little oil is left after proper draining it doesn't matter what PAG was there? Thank you again.
Thank you for the view, the nice comments, and the questions. Yes, you can use the AC flush in the compressor. In fact, I would pour some in, and then rotate the compressor by hand, drain it out and repeat at least once or twice more if you want to get all the mystery oil out of it. Somewhere there should be some information about the correct PAG. 46 is the most common. But again, somewhere there should be the information, I like to use the correct PAG.
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 Thank you very much for the detailed replay. That is what I will do to flush out completely what is inside of that compressor. I think at that time when the car was made there was probably only one oil, what is now PAG 46. And that is why they say just PAG in Shop Manual. I see now all the aftermarket compressors for that car come w/PAG 100, so better go with that one. Especially as I will flush the Evaporator and replace all the hoses, condenser, receiver drier, and expansion valve. Thank you again for that advice w/compressor, I thought to do so, but was not sure.
Loved the explanation
Thank you for that positive comment and the view. Did you notice that I have 15 videos on automotive AC ?
Question: After installing the compressor and the accumulator, once the system is closed, should I carry out the vacuum process immediately or can this wait until I take the vehicle to a workshop the next day? I ask because I plan to install everything and take the vehicle to a workshop to charge.
Thank you for the view and the question. You do NOT have to vacuum immediately. So long as the system is closed you can vacuum and charge later. That was a very good question. Good luck my You Tube friend.
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 Thank you so much
Algorithm boost.
How to go about the compressor, which has a low pressure port on the bottom of its cylinder, on the side opposite to the clutch side? So the hole is just under the red circle @2:24, where that central void is. The High port is in the same position like in the compressor shown in this film @5:52. So the Low and High ports are not on the same plane. The hole for Low P port doesn't have any oil around. Should I still use it to fill the compressor and then plugged it in before install? I removed that compressor and now need to clean properly and fill in w/new PAG 100, but in doubts about the procedure, since the shape is different fm/the compressors shown here. Thank you for your film again.
Drain the compressor to make sure it is empty. Then slowly pour half of system capacity into the larger opening of the compressor. Turn the clutch in the clockwise direction slowly to get the oil spread out inside the compressor. Cap off the openings and install. Good luck my you tube friend.
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 Thank you for the replay and advices. May I double check, clockwise direction that is when you look on the pulley (or clutch), yes? Not from another side, yes? Special thanks for those details, that you rotate slow, certain direction, and poor slowly. Thank you, thank you!
@@olenaerhardt7725 Yes, looking at the clutch from the front. You are Welcome.
What happens with no ac compressor oil? How much to take it into the shop to install. I forgot to put in the oil to the new ac condenser
It sounds like you installed your own compressor. If you added the Freon yourself, I suggest you buy a pressurized can of 2 oz PAG oil (includes 2 oz of Freon) and add it. There is a 50 / 50 chance the compressor has enough oil. Thank you for the view and the question.
ruclips.net/video/4YYi3tJCoCc/видео.html
watched 2 howto videos on this and the first two put oil in both intake and outtakes. knew that was wrong lol thanks for clearing that up.
Thank you for the views and the comment. Some of the comments said that the instructions that came with the replacement compressor said to put it in the discharge. I have assisted students add oil to the compressor 100's of time. I would sometime show then to do it Wrong so they could see that the oil would start to come out almost as some as you rotated the clutch. Thank you again.
Very nice and will help so many
So good! Thanks!
Question do u also need to replace the dryer??
It is "Usually" better to replace the drier, But you don't have to. When I would do a "Test Charge" : add florescent dye / a bunch of oil / and just enough Freon to cool the people down / let them operate vehicle until it acts up (one week to one month) I would not replace the drier. I replace the drier after I find and fix the leaks. Thank you for the view and the question. Good Luck.
Great videos my question is can I use Dielectric grease on o rings for hooking up ac lines?
"ALL" seals need lubrication. The lube is IMPORTANT for two reasons: First the lube is a big part of the "Sealing" process. In fact, without the lube the seals are likely to leak right away or for sure later down the line. Second reason all seals should be lubricated is the lube "Helps" to prevent damage to the seal during installation. Also the lube helps to make the installation EZ'er.
I suggest that you use the correct oil that goes in the system that you are working with (no Dielectric)
Break a Leg / Good Luck my You Tube Friend.
Also I have 1997 ford ranger 2.3L and I’m replacing all ac equipment what orifice should I use I live in Lower Alabama Thanks
@@earnestodom1900 Orifice tubes come in different shapes and passage size. I just get the one it calls for. I hope I was of some help.
Break a Leg / Good Luck.
Really good lesson for me, thank you 🫡
You are Welcome. I'm Glad to help.
Ok, so im replacing the entire system (compressor, condenser, lines, etc), i was told to fill the compressor with the maximum amount of pag oil on my vehicle. The proper way would be to put half in the compressor and the other half in the condenser?
Sometimes you can get away with it, filling the compressor with the entire system capacity. It's a better idea not to fill the compressor because it is possible to damage the compressor by causing "Liquid Lock".
You can put 3/4 of the capacity in the compressor and the rest in the drier or accumulator.
Thank you for the view and the question.
I have a playlist of AC videos. I hope you check some of them out. Thanks again.
@theoldmecanicoshow9004 ok so to avoid hydro lock just put the other 1/4 anywhere else then? I'll just add the rest to the evaporator or the condensor and be good right? I appreciate the knowledge you provided though, it's helping out a lot.
@@iknuggz2842 One more thing. You add the oil to the compressor on the work table. After you add the oil , turn the clutch by hand or with a tool. That helps to spread the oil around to all the cylinders.
Break a Leg / Good Luck.
@theoldmecanicoshow9004 yeah I'm about to start on that after I finish up some work, I'll make sure to do so and give an update after the recharge
@theoldmecanicoshow9004 thanks for the tips! 🙏 My AC finally works after 2 years of harsh summers and it blows ice cold 🧊
Thank you for the lessons
Good job. Excellent info!!
Awesome...! Thank you for the view and that Positive comment. I'm Glad I still help people learn about auto repair.
I liked this video. I have a question and maybe you can help. I have a 1999 ford ranger 2.5 that says my a/c system holds 9 oz of pag 46 oil. My condenser had a leak in it and am going to change the drier, compresser and condenser. My new compresser says it came with 7 oz of oil which it tells me to empty and replace it with half which is 3.5 oz. Where do I put the other 3.5 ounces of oil and how do I get it to the factory 9 ounces? Thank you for your time.
Thank you for the view and the question. Drain the compressor and don't be surprised when it has less than 7 ounces. I would add half of the system capacity which is 4 1/2 ounces to the compressor. Add 4 1/2 more ounces to the dryer. You do not want 9 ounces in the compressor when it starts up. The idea is you get half of system capacity in the compressor and the other half in the dryer or accumulator. On the newer vehicles that have the drying sack as part of the condenser, it can be pretty tough to get the oil in because the plug is at the bottom. Good luck on your repair and thank you again my RUclips friend.
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 so you say to drain the new compresser like the instructions tell me to and than add 4 1/2 ounces to the compresser and 4 1/2 ounces to the drier and nothing in the new condenser. should I put the oil in the new drier last and close it before hooking everything up so moisture doesnt get in it or what? thank you for your time.
@@wisfull11 Yes, yes, and yes. You are very correct about putting the dryer last to avoid moisture. All of these steps are very important to make the AC blow cold and to a last long time. Don't worry about putting oil in the condenser. When the system begins to operate, oil will circulate through the entire system. Very good questions. Good luck on your repairs. I am glad I can help.
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 so to be correct just add 4 1/2 ounces to my compresser and that's all I need to do as you say when everything is put together the system will distribute the oil thru out the system, but wouldn't the 4 1/2 ounces be less than the 9 oz my system calls for? I know am asking alot of questions, but want to learn to do it right. thank you for your time
@@wisfull11 Half the 9 0z goes in the compressor, the other half goes in the drier or accumulator.
🇬🇧 👍🏽 Awesome stuff sir!
I am happy that I can still help people learn about auto repair.
Awesome. So much knowledge.
Awesome. Thank you.
so if the full system capacity is 5.5 oz and i only have to replace the ac compressor im going to have to put 3.75 oz into the new compressor?
Drain the replacement compressor (new / reman / used). Add 3 -4 Oz's to replacement compressor. Add 3 oz to drier. Pull a vacuum and charge. Break a Leg / Good luck.
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 yes i drained the new compressor overnight. so eventhough i am only replacing a compressor, i will still have to put the whole ac systems capacity? (half in the new compressor plus one and half of it somewhere in the system). what about the oil sitting in the rest of the systems components?
@@ohsum8326 It's EZ to say the system is empty of Freon, the gauges read zero. To say the system is empty of oil requires three things: drain the compressor / replace the drier accumulator / and flush the system. You should flush as much of the system as possible. The auto parts sells cans of pressurized AC flush that does a good job. It is also very helpful to have compressed air to flush the flush. Good luck my You Tube Friend,
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 Thank you for the free education Sir. Now that ive done all of the things youve instructed. I dont know where to add the remaining oil into the system since the drier and accumulator is integrated with the condenser (2012 toyota tacoma prerunner V6 4.0L). If i add the oil into discharge liquid hose after the condenser wouldnt the oil get sucked out when i pull a vacuum?
@@ohsum8326 Yes that is a little problem. The opening for the drier is on the bottom right? I would pour the rest of the oil at the beginning of the suction hose (near the firewall). If you can't pour, use a clean oil pump can. Break a Leg / Good Luck.
Greetings for u from Iraq
WOW...! Thank you for the views and that nice comment.
The best! Thank you 🤝
I'm Glad to Help.
My compressor came with washers. Do rubber o-rings go on to the connections at the rear of the compressor in addition to these washers? Thanks
I wish I could see what you have to work with. Do the "washers" have any rubber on them? What the old seals look like?
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 yes, the new “washers” have the rubber mixed in like the old ones. The issue is I have a leak after pulling vacuum, and I was wondering if these needed “extra” o-rings. After digging around all morning I’m thinking they do not need o-rings.
@@TheRoblcjr The metal washers can come different thickness. Were the new ones the same thickness? No extra o-rungs are needed. So the system does NOT hold the vacuum? The leak can be almost anywhere.
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 ok, yes the washers are the same as the old ones. I was hoping I left out something simple like o-rings. Haha. Just ordered a leak kit to see if I can find the leak. Hopefully not the heating core behind the dash. Working with a 2002 Corvette. Everything is packed in tight.
@@TheRoblcjr Pulling a deep vacuum and checking to see if it would hold the vacuum after the pump is turned off is one way to see if there is a leak. Unfortunately it does NOT hint where the leak might be. The new AC stations (AC Machines) test for leaks by seeing if the system holds vacuum. I the AC station says you have a leak, we would disconnect the AC station and connect the nitrogen bottle to the system and pressurize the system. Then we would use "Bubble" leak detector to find the leak. That works for everything except the evaporator. However, if there is no leak under the hood, the leak is inside the dash. Replacing the evap is a HUGE repair. In fact, replacing the evap was the only component by class would do because it was impractical for my student because they only worked on AC one day a week. There were a few times the customer would chose to get a different vehicle instead of paying $2500 to replace the evap. It's kind-of-like "Totaling" the vehicle because the AC didn't work. Ha Ha.
Do I have to disconnect the battery?
Thank you for the question and the view. Some people would say to disconnect the battery to do almost any repair. Disconnect the battery is safer BUT, it could lose important computer memory that will cause the vehicle to have to "Relearn" certain information. I will leave a link on the next reply that will explain more about the lose of "Keep Alive Memory".
ruclips.net/video/eEqJhN-mv6I/видео.html
To replace the AC compressor , it is not necessary to disconnect the battery.
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 ok thanks man enjoy your day appreciatated
Excellent information !
Thank you for the views and that nice comment.
I flushed the system well (including removed Compressor), let it dry for 3-4 days, and started to put everything back. Before I was adding oil into components. I started from the Evaporator, bcs its tubes were opened for flushing and following drying process. And also you need to attach the Expansion Valve, which will close the tubes. So I measured oil PAG 100 2.25 Oz as recommended for the Evaporator in Shop Manual and started to inject it w/small plastic syringe. The Evaporator took 1.25 Oz, but then the oil started to come out, and I couldn't add anymore. initially I injected the oil into the higher opening, when it couldn't accept anymore I tried to use the smaller bottom hole, but the oil was coming out again. So if I added only 1.25 oz into Evaporator, can I add a bit more into the Drier (by Manual I should add 1 oz)? I think to add 1.25 oz into the Drier, and a bit more then recommended into the Condenser to compensate the difference. Or it is better to add just in hoses? Thank you for your lectures again. It is very helpful for those who try to master a bit car AC system.
It looks like you are doing an excellent job. The oil and the refrigerant start to circulate quickly though the entire system when the compressor starts to operate. I usually put half of system capacity into the compressor and the other half in to accumulator or drier. The only time it gets tough to add the oil to the drier is when the drier uses a replacement bag into the built in drier on the condenser because the hole is on the bottom. The idea is to split the total oil around the system. You dont have to add oil to each part because the Freon and oil will circulate quickly. Good luck on your repair and I am glad I was of some help.
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 Thank you, thank you! In this work I try my best, but feel how little I know, and auto-mechanics look to me more and more like extraterrestrials. I have very usual Drier (the exact name of it is Receiver-Dehydrator). I poured 1.25 oz into it via smaller tube w.same syringe with no problems. It was kind of difficult to install it, since you need to bend a bit attaching parts, and I realized it later. So it took some time, but I installed it. In the area of Expansion Valve it is hard to torque to specs, bcs of so limited space, so torque wrench touches all the time smth. with its head. Thank you kindly again.
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 I installed all the AC components back, but the system didn't held vacuum. I pressurized it w/compressed air using compressor and found a huge leak, unfortunately fm/ Evaporator, it was around that plate on which 2 lines of the Evaporator are coming out. There is some kind of foam around that plate and the air is coming fm/the slit between the plate and the foam. I think the only solution for the AC now to replace the Evaporator.
Pretty good video aside from the unprofessional sarcastic demeanor.
Thank you for your input. I mean It. 😀
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004keep up the sarcasm that’s why I just subscribed most mechanics are sarcastic or surly or a combination of both 😏
@@fathertime8030 Cool...! Thank you for the subscription , the comment, and the view.
SO MUCH MESS AND TOO DAMN LONG VIDEO. THIS LOOK FOR PROFESIONALS. You are talking to regular people or professionals?
Regular / Beginners / Rookies /