I always had the habit of adding 2 oz of oil. Because I noticed I was easer to find leak’s. Also, when I replaced a compressor I added 1/2 system capacity, this I learned from one of my former supervisor/manager when I worked for a taxi cab company that had it’s own shop. What I learned today form you, is how much oil is two much, I went to trade school, and this wasn’t taught. In trade school what was taught was to stick to the service manual, I learned that the manual isn’t always right. And that in trade school what is taught is what the politicians believe should be taught. Love your videos.
Thank you very much for the comment and the view. You are correct. By the book is NOT always the best way to go. The motor companies put in the minimum amount of oil that they can get away with. I remember 35 years ago; they were more generous with the amount of the oil. Thank you again for watching some of my videos.
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 Using the minimum amount of oil that will keep the compressor happy long term is the way to go since oil acts like an insulator and reduces the capacity and efficiency of the system. Way too much oil can ruin a compressor too. Systems from 35 years ago also generally had serpentine flow coils, larger compressors, and held 2+ lbs of refrigerant, so what works with those systems doesn't necessarily apply to modern systems. Sometimes manufacturers get the specs wrong, but they usually get them right. There may be some vehicles that need more oil than specified, but I wouldn't make a habit of intentionally adding more oil than specified to every system. If there's a proven design issue with your specific system and more oil is proven to help or there's a TSB, that's a different story. I have proof that PROPERLY DESIGNED systems can last a LONG time without extra oil sitting in my driveway- a 1997 Civic with over 357K southern miles on the original AC system and it still works awesome. Over 13K southern miles per year for more than 27 years with only 4 ounces of oil and no issues. I do agree that you are better off with a little extra oil vs not enough oil though. Way too much oil can ruin a compressor, but a little extra doesn't hurt anything but the system's performance and efficiency.
Thank you buddy!! I read through All the comments! I am learning a lot.. I replaced comp, (clutch blew so no contamination) Dryer element and Expansion valve.. Both HP and LP hoses are combined.. The HP side had a rub crack/hole in it so i aluminum brazed it up.. no leaks under pos pressure.. sould i at least flush the hoses out? Also the Comps tag said 3oz pag 46 installed.. should i also add oil to the comp and where else? 4 seasons web site says total cap 4 oz.. Thank again buddy!!
May I ask this (I think it would be interesting to many of us here)? When you flash out Evaporator (and this is the only component of car AC system, which you flush, since others it is better to replace), under what pressure you sent the solvent (or Rubbing Alcohol, as far as I understand you can use it as well) to the Evaporator? I saw only in one film (who is interested, probably noticed that the films on that subject are very and very few, like 2 or 3 for the whole YT) smth about that P, he said 90 psi. It seems too much for me, for example, I've blown out remaining cooler fm the heater core w/just 30 psi, and everything worked fine. From another side, I've read somewhere or heard in one film (can't recall where it was) that too much pressure can damage the AC system. I imagine the hoses can be blown, which is not that big deal, since they are easily replaceable, but still. I would appreciate a professional opinion on that question about the P (pressure). Thank you.
I used full shop air pressure. About 100 and 10 to 120 PSI. Here are some more helpful Hints to achieve complete flushing. The pressurized flush cans from the auto parts are very convenient. But you really still need some shop air. This is how I would do it. I would shoot about one to two seconds of pressurized flush into the part I was flushing and then stop. And then I would flush with shop air. Then another shot of flush. Then some more air. And don't forget to plug off the other end when you're almost finished, build up pressure, and then let it all out. One more advice. Flush in One Direction first and then flush in the other direction. I hope this information helps you to a successful satisfying repair. Thank you for the views and the questions period good luck to you my RUclips friend.
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 These are very good advices, thank you kindly. I thought to flush just in one direction (via suction port). Actually I planned to send air 1st, then flush, then air, but multiple times solvent-air would be much better of course. I have plenty of technical alcohol, which is left fm my previous project on fuel lines cleaning, so I might start from that and at the end use special solvent solvent. I cleaned the old expansion valve w/that alcohol (fm old oil) w/pretty good results, so it cleans well. I'm replacing that valve of course, just thought to use it for flushing by connecting it back and flushing the Evaporator in the way that the liquid is coming out fm/ the end of that line which goes to the drier (he did like that in one film). Thank you again.
Requesting clarification. You stated that you like extra oil... you take half system capacity plus 2 to 3 oz for small systems. Larger systems half system capacity plus 3 to 4 oz. Well, in my mind if I have a system capacity that takes 8 oz ounces half of that is 4 oz and if I add 4 oz that puts me right back in 8 oz so how can 8 oz be extra oil ? Or am I understanding your formula wrong? Is the plus 2 to 3 for small or 3 to 4 for large In addition to system capacity what you mean ? Because taking you literally at face value value taking half of something and adding that half back is not additional. I have A 2006 Dodge ram 2500 Mega cab and I'm doing a full a/c replacement( Excluding one line from compressor discharge of the condenser to the hard line on the passenger side fenderwell). I I'm trying to figure out the volume of oil that is best suited for a new insult.. Thank you kindly
Thank you for the view and the question. In the "Good Old Days" the manufactures were generous with the amount of oil they would put into the system. Today, they barely put enough to do the job. You almost have to double the dose to get into trouble. Look up the system capacity for your vehicle and add one or two more ounces than it calls for. Thank you again and good luck on your DIY's.
Most of the time when i do r12 to 134a conversion ,i use pag oil. Just about all of them you will be putting new compressor, accumulator, condenser and new lines. Only thing left is to flush the evaporator.
I went to one of the shops and asked them to check the amount of ac in my car because they had that big fancy machine which shows how much grams of freon its in the system. The guy vacuumed all of the gas without my permission and i told him to put it back in. He added 1 ounce with UV in it. Did he do it the right way or should have added more oil bearing in mind he vacuumed it for only 3 minutes
Thank you for the question and the view. To answer your question, most shops take the quick EZ way out for testing the AC system. They let that fancy machine do most of the work and charge you extra for that service. The machine shows the pressure readings BUT does not know what readings are good or bad. The Technician is suppose to do that. I sure hope he took note of the oil that came out and added at least that same amount. Ten minutes is the minimum time used to vacuum a system that has not been opened up. Were you starting to feel the AC was not cooling enough? I ALWAYS add one or two ounces of oil to protect the compressor. It's too late to try and get the shop to do anything. They are not going to listen to you or me. Thanks again and good luck on future services.
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 unfortunately where i live, the mechanics are way unskilled. I just realized after watching your series on ac and got to know that they have been doing many things wrong like letting moisture in the system, adding 10 oz of oil after recovery (i was lucky i told them to add only 1 ounce for me when they vacuumed all of the freon but they usually add 10 oz of pag oil) and putting freon in the system without looking how much is required in the car. This makes us suffer a lot whenever we have an ac problem when its 40C in summer here in Middle East
Great info, hard to find oil compressor facts. Im changing shaft seal on a 2002 ford superduty 6.8l fs-10 compressor that s total capacity for oil is 9oz. If im not replacing and just servicing shaft seal. Is it recommended to change oil. Also if I drain oil and its low how much oil remains in system so the remainder can be added. All I can find is info on a new compressor. Thank you
Thank you for the view, comment, and the question. I suggest you drain the compressor, add at least half of system capacity of new oil. The big problem is we do not know how much oil is in the system. The only way to say the system is empty of oil is to: drain compressor / flush the entire system / and replace the drier or the accumulator. Good luck on your repairs.
Is it possible to add an ounce of oil + 100g of refrigerant to the system? I mean without discharging the whole amount of refrigerant and putting the correct amount again
Do you happen to have an email or website? I'm removing the old a/c compressor clutch bearing on a york. Chewed up the metal retainer a bit and wondering if it is going to be a problem. Thanks
Thank you for the view and the questions. The metal retainer can be reshaped to make sure it works. Send picture to theoldmecanico@gmail.com if you want more information. Good luck on the repairs.
Excellent information! My last two DIY AC repairs lasted 4 to 5 years. Each time the compressor would fail following internal component noise, sounding as if it was low on oil. I'll be adding extra oil this time around. System capacity says 6.25oz. Leaning toward 2 to 3 extra oz, 1oz goes in compressor and 1 to 2oz goes in other system components. Thanks Sir!
@11:00 Can you work with Nitrogen at home if you are DIY mechanic, or work w/ N_2 requires some very special equipment, so you can perform those operations only in professional shops? Thank you for educational film on the history and modern facts about refrigeration oils.
Thank you for the question, the views, and the comments. The HVAC people that work on homes and business use a small Nitrogen cylinder that's maybe 6 inches in diameter and 14 inches tall. You are Welcome, I'm glad to help.
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 Thank you for the size, I saw them online, those cylinders. Probably Dealer can charge. I'll make inquiry, but most likely won't mess with it. That is probably the part which should be done by the shop (the problem is to find a good one). Thank you again.
Really enjoy your videos. 1964 lincoln with a tcci york style compressor switching to 134a. Mfgr. Filled with pag 46. I dumped 9oz. Refilled with new 46. Thoughts? Have not installed compressor yet
Thank you for the views, that positive comment, and the question. Between my students and myself, we have converted / retrofitted "Thousands" of vehicles from R 12 to R 134a. There were half a dozen steps to convert, but the most important in my opinion was...."The Oil". You came to the right place: "Ester" Oil is the ONLY oil to use in the conversions. Thank you again for the views. Please share my videos and channel.
@The Old Mecanico Show ok good thing I saw this. I'm going to dump the pag 46 and swap in the ester oil. Compressor says 10oz. Capacity. So I should put in 7oz at Compressor and 3oz at the evaporator?
Honda also had the Black Death back in the early 90's Are some of the new Hondas having Black Death ? I live in south Texas and it is VERY HOT here. The heat does NOT help on ebit.
Can someone solve this arithmetical puzzle from the Shop Manual? It states in the Manual (car is 2001 Saturn SL2): The Saturn air conditioning system requires 150 ml (5.07 oz) of PAG compressor oil. Service compressors have 65 ml (2.20 oz) of PAG oil installed. New oil quantities must be added to the system during component replacement and conditions stated as follows: With no signs of excessive oil leakage, add: Compressor: Remove, drain, and measure oil. Drain the replacement compressor. Add the same amount of new PAG compressor oil drained from the removed compressor to the replacement compressor. Evaporator: Add 67.5 ml (2.25 oz) of new PAG compressor oil. Condenser: Add 22.5 ml (0.75 oz) of new PAG compressor oil. Receiver-dehydrator: Add 30 ml (1 oz) of new PAG compressor oil. Open the R-134a source valve(s) and allow 0.50 kg (1 lb) of liquid R-134a to flow into system through low side service fitting. As soon as 0.50 kg (1 lb) has been added to system, start the engine, set the mode control to vent, the temperature lever to full cold, the blower speed on high, and push the A/C compressor button to the On position (A/C control button light On). Slowly draw in the remainder of the refrigerant charge 0.23 kg (0.5 lb). The total system charge is 0.68 kg (1.5 lbs). I'm reading all that information in my Shop Manual and don't get this: If the total amount of refrigerant oil is 5.07oz and 2.25oz goes into compressor, then for Evaporator, Condenser and Receiver Drier is left only 2.82oz (5.07-2.25=2.82oz). But if to add what is recommended for Evaporator, Condenser and Drier it will add up to 4.0oz (2.25+0.75+1.0=4.0oz), with the total in the system 6.25oz (4.0+2.25). How much oil on total is in the system: 5.07oz or 6.25oz? Where I'm wrong? I'm replacing everything besides the Evaporator and Compressor (I'll remove it and flush w/solvent though), those I'll just flush with solvent. No info on Refrigerant Oil under the hood or in owners manual, or in Haynes book. Thank you.
The amount of oil is much more difficult than most people realize. For example, when we had the gauges connected to the vehicle and the pressure read zero, I would ask the students how much freon is in the system. And they would say 0. Then I would ask them how much oil is in the system. And the answer is we're not sure. I like oil. It serves many benefits. Only once in 50 years did I put too much to where it affected the system. You almost have to double the dose to get into trouble. Two or three oz more it's much better than two or three ounces less than the needed amount. I would put 8 ounces area it should be fine. Good luck to you my RUclips friend.
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 Thank you so much for sharing you knowledge and experience. I was totally stuck on that question and didn't know how to proceed with all those contradictions. Now some light appeared in the dark. Your students are very cleaver. If the system is empty due to a leak, some oil also would leak out, since it is spread in the AC system refrigerant, but how much? It is unknown.
@@olenaerhardt7725 One more thing. You have to do three things to say that's the system is empty of oil. You must drain the compressor. You must flush the entire AC system. And you must replace the drying element. That would be the accumulator or dryer. Then you can say the system has no oil in it. I am glad to help you and others. Share my channel with friends and family. Thank you for the views and the questions. Good luck my RUclips friend.
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 2001 Saturn SL2 has Receiver Drier, I'm replacing it along w/Condenser, Low and High Lines (I couldn't find one more line, which runs fm the Evaporator to the Drier, but I'll sure remove and flush it). I'll flush the Evaporator, but I think it is impossible to say if any old oil is still left there. I know that you need to send the air through the Evaporator to dry the solvent out (someone wrote like for 40 min). And I'll remove the Compressor, drain out and flush it out the best I can. I bought new o-rings and slim seals of course. Hopefully the system should work well after all that. Thank you kindly for the replay, I'll definitely spread the word.
@@olenaerhardt7725 A Hint on flushing. It's nice to have compressed air, but not essential. You can use the store-bought flush or you can use rubbing alcohol. It works fine. With both ends of the component you are flushing open, shoot some flush into, for example, the evaporator. You can use small funnels with a hose to get rubbing alcohol into the component. Then if you have compressed air, use it to chase. But here's the big tip. Whether you're using the pressurized flush or chasing it with air after about 10 or 15 seconds of flushing: Cover the other end with your thumb, let it build up pressure, and then let it blow out. Do that about five or six times if you can. That really helps to get all the oil residue out. Good luck with your AC repair.
Later the required 134 retrofit fitting as some of them got old became the biggest source of Refrigerant leaks to the atmosphere, thanks EPA. Wrong oil has been a big problem. I had one shop in our area put that thick PAG GM 150 ( blue stuff) in everything . They wonder why they had so many Compressor failure. Or shops put the PAG 46 into a compressor replacement that originally had PAG 150 and end up with a compressor with a piston slap sound or a rod bearing knock noise.
Thank you for the comment/information. YesYesYes...the retro fittings were junk. One trick I came up with was: when converting a vehicle from R12 to R134a . I would use R12 gauges to do all the steps (leak teat / vacuum / charge / read pressures) . Then the last thing I would do was install the retro fitting. But I would just put them on half way (loose / not tight). The purpose of the retro fitting was to tell the next Tech that the vehicle had been converted, What do you think? Was I legal?
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 Very excellent thinking. I even push it one step further and I really wish they would make it mandatory in every state anybody who touches air conditioning must own a refrigerant identifier then we would not even need retrofit fittings. Just a label. I have always owned from the very beginning before our 134 became main stream a refrigerant identifier and you know how expensive those were back in the early 90s compared to our income. In the commercial and residential and industrial refrigeration everything is quarter inch fitting and everybody goes by the label no unique fittings. I think we should do away with the fittings, and do away with shops that do not own refrigerant identifiers. Now I’m starting to work on the new heat pump systems in the Prius prime, The Audi and Volkswagen SUV, If you want to see an AC system actually should be renamed thermal management system integrated with the hybrid cooling inverters and EV’s battery cooling management. This is going to turn our industry on its head and put a lot of the air conditioning radiator shops out of business. Just like when they started to introduce variable displacement compressors that put a lot of shops into financial hardship when they kept burning up the customers compressors because they use the old shake the can method and try to look for a certain pressure that they were used to. As we introduced computers to the air conditioning system and electric compressors I seen all my radiator and air-conditioning shop starting to fold up and go out of business in my area the country. The last big mega sized radiator and air conditioning business in my city went out of business a few years ago and started turning away hybrid cars like the Prius because they kept burning out the compressors because they did not keep up with their education. Now has heat pumps become the main stream form of heating and cooling that will put the nail in the coffin for the old guys and the new guys who are being taught by old guys who don’t keep up with technology
@@coldfinger459sub0 You and I are on the same page. I would like to see the Automotive HVAC have the same requirements as the residential HVAC Techs. I needed some Freon (I am old school) at my home. I asked a friend of mine to add some Freon, but was unable because of the "Locks" on the fittings. Also I needed a squirrel cage for the blower in in old home. The supply store would Not sell it to because I was Not licensed. You can go into ant auto parts and buy anything you want. I just retired. How much longer before you can "Hang up the Gloves"?
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 i’m 56 years old and I really don’t plan on fully retiring I’ll die on the job probably. To me this is just a hobby I don’t work for a living. I get paid to have fun travel around and tinker and figure out problems. I also own a commercial HVAC business and I sell and install LG multi V my son currently does only commercial HVAC sometimes touches residential none of my three sons wanted anything to do with Automotive all three of my sons when they were young teenagers said it was too much work to dirty for too little pay and they often did not like the attitudes of the owners of automotive shops said they were kind of shady lol 😂 and this is coming from the minds and the mouth of young teenagers can see this. Everything in commercial HVAC has been around for 50 years or more has just started to come to Automotive so for me it’s old-school knowledge it’s nothing new. Oh and for my son youngest one who works with me his very first introduction into learning HVAC was me flying him out to Georgia for training at the Panasonic Training facility to do his first 24 ton heat pump install. We fly out in a tan FUJITSU heat pump and heat recovery commercial systems my son installed the heat pump training facility system at Johnstone distributors training facility I installed the heat recovery training facility system for Baker Distributing training facility I currently sell and install LG‘s heat pump and heat recovery systems I’m a very heavy advocate and believer of higher education in the trade you work.
I always had the habit of adding 2 oz of oil. Because I noticed I was easer to find leak’s.
Also, when I replaced a compressor I added 1/2 system capacity, this I learned from one of my former supervisor/manager when I worked for a taxi cab company that had it’s own shop.
What I learned today form you, is how much oil is two much, I went to trade school, and this wasn’t taught. In trade school what was taught was to stick to the service manual, I learned that the manual isn’t always right. And that in trade school what is taught is what the politicians believe should be taught.
Love your videos.
Thank you very much for the comment and the view. You are correct. By the book is NOT always the best way to go. The motor companies put in the minimum amount of oil that they can get away with. I remember 35 years ago; they were more generous with the amount of the oil. Thank you again for watching some of my videos.
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 Using the minimum amount of oil that will keep the compressor happy long term is the way to go since oil acts like an insulator and reduces the capacity and efficiency of the system. Way too much oil can ruin a compressor too. Systems from 35 years ago also generally had serpentine flow coils, larger compressors, and held 2+ lbs of refrigerant, so what works with those systems doesn't necessarily apply to modern systems.
Sometimes manufacturers get the specs wrong, but they usually get them right. There may be some vehicles that need more oil than specified, but I wouldn't make a habit of intentionally adding more oil than specified to every system. If there's a proven design issue with your specific system and more oil is proven to help or there's a TSB, that's a different story.
I have proof that PROPERLY DESIGNED systems can last a LONG time without extra oil sitting in my driveway- a 1997 Civic with over 357K southern miles on the original AC system and it still works awesome. Over 13K southern miles per year for more than 27 years with only 4 ounces of oil and no issues.
I do agree that you are better off with a little extra oil vs not enough oil though. Way too much oil can ruin a compressor, but a little extra doesn't hurt anything but the system's performance and efficiency.
Thank you buddy!! I read through All the comments! I am learning a lot.. I replaced comp, (clutch blew so no contamination) Dryer element and Expansion valve.. Both HP and LP hoses are combined.. The HP side had a rub crack/hole in it so i aluminum brazed it up.. no leaks under pos pressure.. sould i at least flush the hoses out? Also the Comps tag said 3oz pag 46 installed.. should i also add oil to the comp and where else? 4 seasons web site says total cap 4 oz.. Thank again buddy!!
May I ask this (I think it would be interesting to many of us here)? When you flash out Evaporator (and this is the only component of car AC system, which you flush, since others it is better to replace), under what pressure you sent the solvent (or Rubbing Alcohol, as far as I understand you can use it as well) to the Evaporator? I saw only in one film (who is interested, probably noticed that the films on that subject are very and very few, like 2 or 3 for the whole YT) smth about that P, he said 90 psi. It seems too much for me, for example, I've blown out remaining cooler fm the heater core w/just 30 psi, and everything worked fine. From another side, I've read somewhere or heard in one film (can't recall where it was) that too much pressure can damage the AC system. I imagine the hoses can be blown, which is not that big deal, since they are easily replaceable, but still. I would appreciate a professional opinion on that question about the P (pressure). Thank you.
I used full shop air pressure. About 100 and 10 to 120 PSI. Here are some more helpful Hints to achieve complete flushing. The pressurized flush cans from the auto parts are very convenient. But you really still need some shop air. This is how I would do it. I would shoot about one to two seconds of pressurized flush into the part I was flushing and then stop. And then I would flush with shop air. Then another shot of flush. Then some more air. And don't forget to plug off the other end when you're almost finished, build up pressure, and then let it all out. One more advice. Flush in One Direction first and then flush in the other direction. I hope this information helps you to a successful satisfying repair. Thank you for the views and the questions period good luck to you my RUclips friend.
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 These are very good advices, thank you kindly. I thought to flush just in one direction (via suction port). Actually I planned to send air 1st, then flush, then air, but multiple times solvent-air would be much better of course. I have plenty of technical alcohol, which is left fm my previous project on fuel lines cleaning, so I might start from that and at the end use special solvent solvent. I cleaned the old expansion valve w/that alcohol (fm old oil) w/pretty good results, so it cleans well. I'm replacing that valve of course, just thought to use it for flushing by connecting it back and flushing the Evaporator in the way that the liquid is coming out fm/ the end of that line which goes to the drier (he did like that in one film). Thank you again.
Requesting clarification. You stated that you like extra oil... you take half system capacity plus 2 to 3 oz for small systems. Larger systems half system capacity plus 3 to 4 oz. Well, in my mind if I have a system capacity that takes 8 oz ounces half of that is 4 oz and if I add 4 oz that puts me right back in 8 oz so how can 8 oz be extra oil ? Or am I understanding your formula wrong? Is the plus 2 to 3 for small or 3 to 4 for large In addition to system capacity what you mean ? Because taking you literally at face value value taking half of something and adding that half back is not additional. I have A 2006 Dodge ram 2500 Mega cab and I'm doing a full a/c replacement( Excluding one line from compressor discharge of the condenser to the hard line on the passenger side fenderwell). I I'm trying to figure out the volume of oil that is best suited for a new insult.. Thank you kindly
Thank you for the view and the question. In the "Good Old Days" the manufactures were generous with the amount of oil they would put into the system. Today, they barely put enough to do the job. You almost have to double the dose to get into trouble. Look up the system capacity for your vehicle and add one or two more ounces than it calls for. Thank you again and good luck on your DIY's.
Thanks for the education.
You are Welcome and Thank you for the view and that positive comment.
Most of the time when i do r12 to 134a conversion ,i use pag oil. Just about all of them you will be putting new compressor, accumulator, condenser and new lines. Only thing left is to flush the evaporator.
Thank you for the view and that information. Thank you again.
I went to one of the shops and asked them to check the amount of ac in my car because they had that big fancy machine which shows how much grams of freon its in the system. The guy vacuumed all of the gas without my permission and i told him to put it back in. He added 1 ounce with UV in it. Did he do it the right way or should have added more oil bearing in mind he vacuumed it for only 3 minutes
Thank you for the question and the view. To answer your question, most shops take the quick EZ way out for testing the AC system. They let that fancy machine do most of the work and charge you extra for that service. The machine shows the pressure readings BUT does not know what readings are good or bad. The Technician is suppose to do that. I sure hope he took note of the oil that came out and added at least that same amount. Ten minutes is the minimum time used to vacuum a system that has not been opened up. Were you starting to feel the AC was not cooling enough? I ALWAYS add one or two ounces of oil to protect the compressor. It's too late to try and get the shop to do anything. They are not going to listen to you or me. Thanks again and good luck on future services.
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 unfortunately where i live, the mechanics are way unskilled. I just realized after watching your series on ac and got to know that they have been doing many things wrong like letting moisture in the system, adding 10 oz of oil after recovery (i was lucky i told them to add only 1 ounce for me when they vacuumed all of the freon but they usually add 10 oz of pag oil) and putting freon in the system without looking how much is required in the car. This makes us suffer a lot whenever we have an ac problem when its 40C in summer here in Middle East
thank you! Answered so many questions that I had about this stuff
Great info, hard to find oil compressor facts. Im changing shaft seal on a 2002 ford superduty 6.8l fs-10 compressor that s total capacity for oil is 9oz. If im not replacing and just servicing shaft seal. Is it recommended to change oil. Also if I drain oil and its low how much oil remains in system so the remainder can be added. All I can find is info on a new compressor. Thank you
Thank you for the view, comment, and the question. I suggest you drain the compressor, add at least half of system capacity of new oil. The big problem is we do not know how much oil is in the system. The only way to say the system is empty of oil is to: drain compressor / flush the entire system / and replace the drier or the accumulator. Good luck on your repairs.
Cool
Is it possible to add an ounce of oil + 100g of refrigerant to the system?
I mean without discharging the whole amount of refrigerant and putting the correct amount again
Thank you for the view and the question. This video should help you: ruclips.net/video/4YYi3tJCoCc/видео.html
Do you happen to have an email or website? I'm removing the old a/c compressor clutch bearing on a york. Chewed up the metal retainer a bit and wondering if it is going to be a problem. Thanks
Thank you for the view and the questions. The metal retainer can be reshaped to make sure it works. Send picture to theoldmecanico@gmail.com if you want more information. Good luck on the repairs.
Excellent information! My last two DIY AC repairs lasted 4 to 5 years. Each time the compressor would fail following internal component noise, sounding as if it was low on oil. I'll be adding extra oil this time around. System capacity says 6.25oz. Leaning toward 2 to 3 extra oz, 1oz goes in compressor and 1 to 2oz goes in other system components. Thanks Sir!
Glad to Help and Thank you for the view and your information.
@11:00 Can you work with Nitrogen at home if you are DIY mechanic, or work w/ N_2 requires some very special equipment, so you can perform those operations only in professional shops?
Thank you for educational film on the history and modern facts about refrigeration oils.
Thank you for the question, the views, and the comments. The HVAC people that work on homes and business use a small Nitrogen cylinder that's maybe 6 inches in diameter and 14 inches tall. You are Welcome, I'm glad to help.
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 Thank you for the size, I saw them online, those cylinders. Probably Dealer can charge. I'll make inquiry, but most likely won't mess with it. That is probably the part which should be done by the shop (the problem is to find a good one). Thank you again.
Really enjoy your videos. 1964 lincoln with a tcci york style compressor switching to 134a. Mfgr. Filled with pag 46. I dumped 9oz. Refilled with new 46. Thoughts? Have not installed compressor yet
Thank you for the views, that positive comment, and the question. Between my students and myself, we have converted / retrofitted
"Thousands" of vehicles from R 12 to R 134a. There were half a dozen steps to convert, but the most important in my opinion was...."The Oil". You came to the right place: "Ester" Oil is the ONLY oil to use in the conversions. Thank you again for the views. Please share my videos and channel.
@The Old Mecanico Show ok good thing I saw this. I'm going to dump the pag 46 and swap in the ester oil. Compressor says 10oz. Capacity. So I should put in 7oz at Compressor and 3oz at the evaporator?
@@msloquet I like half the capacity in the compressor and the other half in the evaporator or drier. Good Luck.
Honda CRV Black Death is this plagues newest strain
Honda also had the Black Death back in the early 90's Are some of the new Hondas having Black Death ? I live in south Texas and it is VERY HOT here. The heat does NOT help on ebit.
Can someone solve this arithmetical puzzle from the Shop Manual? It states in the Manual (car is 2001 Saturn SL2):
The Saturn air conditioning system requires 150 ml (5.07 oz) of PAG compressor oil. Service compressors have 65 ml (2.20 oz) of PAG oil installed.
New oil quantities must be added to the system during component replacement and conditions stated as follows:
With no signs of excessive oil leakage, add:
Compressor: Remove, drain, and measure oil. Drain the replacement compressor. Add the same amount of new PAG compressor oil drained from the removed compressor to the replacement compressor.
Evaporator: Add 67.5 ml (2.25 oz) of new PAG compressor oil.
Condenser: Add 22.5 ml (0.75 oz) of new PAG compressor oil.
Receiver-dehydrator: Add 30 ml (1 oz) of new PAG compressor oil.
Open the R-134a source valve(s) and allow 0.50 kg (1 lb) of liquid R-134a to flow into system through low side service fitting.
As soon as 0.50 kg (1 lb) has been added to system, start the engine, set the mode control to vent, the temperature lever to full cold, the blower speed on high, and push the A/C compressor button to the On position (A/C control button light On). Slowly draw in the remainder of the refrigerant charge 0.23 kg (0.5 lb). The total system charge is 0.68 kg (1.5 lbs).
I'm reading all that information in my Shop Manual and don't get this:
If the total amount of refrigerant oil is 5.07oz and 2.25oz goes into compressor, then for Evaporator, Condenser and Receiver Drier is left only 2.82oz (5.07-2.25=2.82oz). But if to add what is recommended for Evaporator, Condenser and Drier it will add up to 4.0oz (2.25+0.75+1.0=4.0oz), with the total in the system 6.25oz (4.0+2.25). How much oil on total is in the system: 5.07oz or 6.25oz? Where I'm wrong? I'm replacing everything besides the Evaporator and Compressor (I'll remove it and flush w/solvent though), those I'll just flush with solvent. No info on Refrigerant Oil under the hood or in owners manual, or in Haynes book. Thank you.
The amount of oil is much more difficult than most people realize. For example, when we had the gauges connected to the vehicle and the pressure read zero, I would ask the students how much freon is in the system. And they would say 0. Then I would ask them how much oil is in the system. And the answer is we're not sure.
I like oil. It serves many benefits. Only once in 50 years did I put too much to where it affected the system. You almost have to double the dose to get into trouble. Two or three oz more it's much better than two or three ounces less than the needed amount. I would put 8 ounces area it should be fine. Good luck to you my RUclips friend.
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 Thank you so much for sharing you knowledge and experience. I was totally stuck on that question and didn't know how to proceed with all those contradictions. Now some light appeared in the dark. Your students are very cleaver. If the system is empty due to a leak, some oil also would leak out, since it is spread in the AC system refrigerant, but how much? It is unknown.
@@olenaerhardt7725 One more thing. You have to do three things to say that's the system is empty of oil. You must drain the compressor. You must flush the entire AC system. And you must replace the drying element. That would be the accumulator or dryer. Then you can say the system has no oil in it. I am glad to help you and others. Share my channel with friends and family. Thank you for the views and the questions. Good luck my RUclips friend.
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 2001 Saturn SL2 has Receiver Drier, I'm replacing it along w/Condenser, Low and High Lines (I couldn't find one more line, which runs fm the Evaporator to the Drier, but I'll sure remove and flush it). I'll flush the Evaporator, but I think it is impossible to say if any old oil is still left there. I know that you need to send the air through the Evaporator to dry the solvent out (someone wrote like for 40 min). And I'll remove the Compressor, drain out and flush it out the best I can. I bought new o-rings and slim seals of course. Hopefully the system should work well after all that. Thank you kindly for the replay, I'll definitely spread the word.
@@olenaerhardt7725 A Hint on flushing. It's nice to have compressed air, but not essential. You can use the store-bought flush or you can use rubbing alcohol. It works fine. With both ends of the component you are flushing open, shoot some flush into, for example, the evaporator. You can use small funnels with a hose to get rubbing alcohol into the component. Then if you have compressed air, use it to chase. But here's the big tip. Whether you're using the pressurized flush or chasing it with air after about 10 or 15 seconds of flushing:
Cover the other end with your thumb, let it build up pressure, and then let it blow out. Do that about five or six times if you can. That really helps to get all the oil residue out. Good luck with your AC repair.
❤❤❤thanks
Great Job!!!!
👍🏻
Thank you for the view and the thumbs up.
Later the required 134 retrofit fitting as some of them got old became the biggest source of Refrigerant leaks to the atmosphere, thanks EPA.
Wrong oil has been a big problem. I had one shop in our area put that thick PAG GM 150 ( blue stuff) in everything . They wonder why they had so many Compressor failure.
Or shops put the PAG 46 into a compressor replacement that originally had PAG 150 and end up with a compressor with a piston slap sound or a rod bearing knock noise.
Thank you for the comment/information. YesYesYes...the retro fittings were junk. One trick I came up with was: when converting a vehicle from R12 to R134a . I would use R12 gauges to do all the steps (leak teat / vacuum / charge / read pressures) . Then the last thing I would do was install the retro fitting. But I would just put them on half way (loose / not tight). The purpose of the retro fitting was to tell the next Tech that the vehicle had been converted, What do you think? Was I legal?
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 Very excellent thinking. I even push it one step further and I really wish they would make it mandatory in every state anybody who touches air conditioning must own a refrigerant identifier then we would not even need retrofit fittings. Just a label.
I have always owned from the very beginning before our 134 became main stream a refrigerant identifier and you know how expensive those were back in the early 90s compared to our income.
In the commercial and residential and industrial refrigeration everything is quarter inch fitting and everybody goes by the label no unique fittings.
I think we should do away with the fittings, and do away with shops that do not own refrigerant identifiers.
Now I’m starting to work on the new heat pump systems in the Prius prime, The Audi and Volkswagen SUV,
If you want to see an AC system actually should be renamed thermal management system integrated with the hybrid cooling inverters and EV’s battery cooling management.
This is going to turn our industry on its head and put a lot of the air conditioning radiator shops out of business.
Just like when they started to introduce variable displacement compressors that put a lot of shops into financial hardship when they kept burning up the customers compressors because they use the old shake the can method and try to look for a certain pressure that they were used to.
As we introduced computers to the air conditioning system and electric compressors I seen all my radiator and air-conditioning shop starting to fold up and go out of business in my area the country.
The last big mega sized radiator and air conditioning business in my city went out of business a few years ago and started turning away hybrid cars like the Prius because they kept burning out the compressors because they did not keep up with their education.
Now has heat pumps become the main stream form of heating and cooling that will put the nail in the coffin for the old guys and the new guys who are being taught by old guys who don’t keep up with technology
@@coldfinger459sub0 You and I are on the same page. I would like to see the Automotive HVAC have the same requirements as the residential HVAC Techs. I needed some Freon (I am old school) at my home. I asked a friend of mine to add some Freon, but was unable because of the "Locks" on the fittings. Also I needed a squirrel cage for the blower in in old home. The supply store would Not sell it to because I was Not licensed. You can go into ant auto parts and buy anything you want. I just retired. How much longer before you can "Hang up the Gloves"?
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 i’m 56 years old and I really don’t plan on fully retiring I’ll die on the job probably. To me this is just a hobby I don’t work for a living. I get paid to have fun travel around and tinker and figure out problems.
I also own a commercial HVAC business and I sell and install LG multi V my son currently does only commercial HVAC sometimes touches residential none of my three sons wanted anything to do with Automotive all three of my sons when they were young teenagers said it was too much work to dirty for too little pay and they often did not like the attitudes of the owners of automotive shops said they were kind of shady lol 😂 and this is coming from the minds and the mouth of young teenagers can see this.
Everything in commercial HVAC has been around for 50 years or more has just started to come to Automotive so for me it’s old-school knowledge it’s nothing new.
Oh and for my son youngest one who works with me his very first introduction into learning HVAC was me flying him out to Georgia for training at the Panasonic Training facility to do his first 24 ton heat pump install.
We fly out in a tan FUJITSU heat pump and heat recovery commercial systems my son installed the heat pump training facility system at Johnstone distributors training facility
I installed the heat recovery training facility system for Baker Distributing training facility
I currently sell and install LG‘s heat pump and heat recovery systems
I’m a very heavy advocate and believer of higher education in the trade you work.