The reason IPA stops working on your bed is you need different solvents for polar and non-polar contaminants. Alcohol will not remove sugars and some plastics, like PLA, when heated will degrade to sugars.
With your cigar lighter torch..another useful tool that I use is a METAL chopstick. With both ends being rounded and one side a bit larger than the other, you can smooth out whatever part you heated up to fix (better than a butter knife) plus you can heat up either end to help weld parts together. Just an idea.
Us price for Voxel pla is $16.99/kg. In Canada, at Amazon, Voxel pla sells for $25.99/kg. So at 15% exchange rate on the Canadian dollar it should be $19.54/kg... not $25.99. As soon as something comes across the border into Canada, companies seem to think that they have been given freedom to gouge rights!
The 15-20 minute length is a sweet spot for me when the material is presented in a clean and cohesive fashion. I am subject to interruptions when I spend too long watching videos (wife, kids, cat, household emergencies, etc.) so being able to cherry pick videos based on length is a habit I have fallen into post-covid. Not to say I don't watch longer videos (Critical Role, anyone?) but I get to watch them in sections.
Most pharmacies (at least in the US) carry 90%/91% alcohol, it should work just fine for bed cleaning. The 99% and 100% alcohols will evaporate so quickly that it becomes a challenge to accomplish the CLEANING. Even 91% evaporates pretty quick. For the ball end Allen Keys, I strongly suggest these 4 brands: Allen, Bondhus, Wera, PB Swiss.
I've never tried Voxel PLA, I need to correct that! I laughed at the manual pump option. I only did that about twice before I went to the electric pump! Love the tool list, so many great ones and I need that low profile wrench, that thing is fabulous!
Thanks Courtney! Honored as always that you're watching. I hope you'll join our Discord, I'm setting up a mastermind with myself, Stefan from CNC Kitchen, Uncle Jessie, Albert from 247, etc... you are of course welcome to join :)
A 3D pen is definitely useful. I was printing a planet carrier for a planetary gearbox, the planet carrier would require a lot of support to print it as is, so I split it up into the main body of the carrier and the pins. I printed the pins with a hexagon pin on the end and the carrier with a hexagonal hole. These fit together well and then I used a 3D printing pen to melt them together, making the join almost as strong if not as strong as the rest of the print. Another cool application I just thought of is to use on wear surfaces on your prints, when it wears down you could just use the pen to add another layer of material on top, sand it to the required shape and then use it again, without having to reprint the entire piece. Similarly you could just use it for repairing 3D prints.
Filament in the oven? Hard pass. A food dehydrator works great and has less risk of melting the whole roll. My oven only goes as low as 170°F but with how the temperature controls work, it's all but guaranteed the temperature will go higher as the heating element is on.
So, there are people who think paper towels are adding to the massive amount of trash in garbage dumps? Paper towels? The things that dissolve in water?
RUclips definitely rewards frequency over video length however watch hours are also important. It’s RUclips so you don’t have to have a super polished video with tons of editing and multiple takes to get it right. Don’t be afraid to go raw so to speak.
this was definitely a very useful video. I’m a newbie to 3d printing and am interested in learning more about 3d printing. I love videos that talk about all the tools you need and where to get them. Thanks for adding links and also thanks for sharing other youtube channels that you follow. I definitely prefer shorter videos so that they are more frequent and not have to wait a long time for the next one. Thanks for sharing 😊
I store my in-use filaments in an IKEA SAMLA container with weather sealing added to the lip. It's filled with 4L of reusable silica in fine mesh bags. I use some printed PETG SAMLA clips to keep it sealed tight. Easily holds 8 spools, and could stuff another 4 or more if I really wanted to pack it full. The reusable silica can be dried out again in the oven. I think I saw the first iteration of this idea from CNC Kitchen.
I send my glass plates through my dishwasher and they work great. I still use glue stick on them because otherwise I can’t get anything to release lol.
I actually disagree with your findings on the IPA. I buy 99% and dilute it down to ~75% with distilled water. I find plain old 99% evaporates too quickly and its much more likely to cause skin irritation especially after repeated exposure. Same for the fumes as well. Rest of the video is excellent though. Just some food for thought on the IPA. 🙂
When you cut or drill metal you are left with a little material around the edge of the cut or hole, this material is a very thin layer of very sharp metal, that is what a burr is. The deburring tool runs along these cut or drilled edges and removes the unwanted metal, it helps with the finish of the part and it removes the razor sharp burrs, making it safer to handle. So it is a tool for removing unwanted material from edges, which is why it is also very good for 3D prints and cleaning up edges.
Those ball head allen keys are great until you try to use the ball end to finish tightening bolts then you start stripping metal. If you do end up using ball end wrenches do not tighten all the way with the ball end, ball end should do 90% of work getting bolt in with final torque coming from flat end to make sure you dont strip bolts. I ran a bicycle shop and hate ball end allen wrenches with a passion because my techs never cared how to use them
I wipe down my head bed with isopropyl alcohol with a fresh paper towel before every print and about every two weeks I wash the build plate with good dish soap. These steps really help the curling off the build plate. Thanks for the vids
Many build plates have a PEI surface now. The proper cleaning for that surface is dish soap, as you indicated, but for cleaning between prints, the recommended concentration of isopropyl alcohol is 80-90%. 99% will deteriorate the surface quicker and reduce its effectiveness. For vacuum sealing filament bags, some kitchen vacuum sealers have an external adapter. This allows you to use the resealable bag the filament shipped with and vacuum the air out. The 3D pen can also be used to build up a thin wall before sanding it smooth. Fixes the problem spot and sanding smooth hides the crude fix marks. Look for the hacks where you can use them.
"I dont even know what a burr is." ...Then proceeds do define it perfectly spot on, LOL! Love the channel, new subscriber. A tip when ordering rotary burr knife blades: For 3D printed parts, be sure to order blades designed to use on aluminum and soft metals, NOT the ones for hard steel. They have different cutting angles, and the one for steel will chatter as you pull it along a part edge, leaving a worse edge than you started with. Also be aware that the blades made for soft materials are ground at different angles on each side and are designed to cut in one direction. If you cut along an edge, and then cut backwards going the opposite direction, it will chatter and make a saw-blade-like edge on the part. These can be found in right and left direction. The blades made for hard steel have the cutting edge ground equally on both sides of the blade and work in both directions. Generally, a right handed blade is designed to draw inward (right to left direction)or toward yourself with your right hand, which gives the most stable control and smoothest cut. Vice-versa for a left hand blade in your left hand. These tools work incredibly well for de-burring or breaking the sharp edge of holes. With a right handed blade, whip it around the hole edge in a clockwise direction, and vice-versa for a left hand blade. In the machinist world, we call this tool a burr whip, and used correctly and with some practice can create a very fine, precise edge bevel or hole chamfer that looks as clean as if it were machined that way.
New to your RUclips channel. Great content and Info. I like the shorter videos, maybe 10-15 minuets. With the links in the comments as needed. Dave Vail Fredericksburg Va. (USA)
Nice list! Adding the wrench to my kit. The others I was already using. 2 tips I've come across related to these tools. Tip 1: Instead of the cigar lighter look up butane soldering irons. They usually have small heat gun attachment that can very precisely heat or clear strings. Along with the torch and metal tips you can use for shaping or cutting prints. Berkling BSG-568 is a quality unit, but there are other cheaper ones. Tip 2: There are other blades for your deburring tool! Noga is a high quality brand that has so many attachments it will make your head spin. One I want to feature is the S150 blade that will drop into your current tool. It is designed for plastics and has a much finer point that the typical S10 style, which is great for getting into tight spaces on your 3d prints. Nice job explaining the uses of each item featured!
People make 3d printing more expensive and troublesome that it needs to be. You're the second video I watched tonight exclaiming the usefulness of isopropyl and microfiber rags. I have two Ender3s. I use the cheap kindergarten glue sticks from Amazon. When the build up gets crappy, I run the build plates under warm tap water and use a sponge to remove the glue. Then I put down a new layer of glue and go. If it doesn't stick, I probably need to relevel my bed. As to hygrometers. I keep a one-room dehumidifier next to my print station and run it year around with a setting of 50%. I've never had a filament, no matter how old, to give any problems. And by the way, they sit out unwrapped. But-- Is there an unusually high humidity in Israel?
I see the 3D pens are basically mini mig-welders. Had my main printers PSU's explode while I was making custom ductwork for a clients PC build on a tight timeline - redesigned the parts to fit on a smaller unit (chopping each piece into sections with lips / pins and chamfers all around...) super glue to locate parts, 3D pen to fill the chamfers, sand flat. Seamless perfection with not a whole lot of extra work. Given that the seams are also "100% infill", yay stronk, you can use a higher temp than normal printing without worrying about stringing. That and dragging the hot tip across the printed surface while depositing new stuff allows the new material to both fully fuse, and key in with the base material.
Re: paper towels 3:19 By definition paper is a "green" (laughable term) resource. It is easily biodegradable and extremely renewable - the plastic microfiber towel is the one that is NOT "environmentally friendly". 🙄
The reason 70% isopropyl alcohol exists is to sanitize. The higher-level alcohols evaporate too quickly to be able to have the time to kill anything so you need some water in them to slow down the evaporation. Obviously we're not dealing with food so the higher-alcohol variants are fine. But if you already have 70%, it works just fine (and your bed will now be sanitized!).
Great video! I don't know if you were joking or not but just in case you weren't... Deburring tools are indeed designed to remove burrs. A burr is something that machinists like me encounter a lot. Whenever you cut a piece of metal, whether it's with a milling cutter or on a lathe or with a saw, it always leaves a raised rough edge called a burr. Burrs are problematic, because not only do they constitute a scratching or cutting hazard for your poor fingers, the fact that they are raised means that they can cause parts that have tight tolerances not to fit together properly. We use deburring tools in the shop a lot remove these birds so that parts fit properly and don't cut anyone. Also, two straight cuts meeting at a 90° angle can leave a very sharp corner. Even though it may not be a burr as such, we used to bring tools to break these hard edges. I hope that was informative! I get the impression and forgive me if I'm wrong, that before you got into 3D printing you didn't do much other making except probably wood working. Coming from an automotive and metal working place to watch making and then to 3D printing as part of a general Maker's journey, I find it interesting what tools people do and do not know are out there. I also find that the most interesting things come from people who have two intersecting maker specialties that may not necessarily always be combined. I am looking at getting into 3D printing in this video is extremely helpful please keep up the good work and keep making great content.
When you started talking about alcohol and you made that comment about using it on your bed. I had temporarily forgotten that this video was about 3D printers... I was really really confused.
I've never really been a fan of those 'one size fits all' wrenches like you mentioned when talking about the thin wrench you use. Instead having worked as a mechanic for many years and having seen how those wrenches can eventually round off a nut or bolt head I often opt for a set of what were in the past referred to as 'ignition wrenches' (because they were pretty essential when working on points style ignition systems on older vehicles before electronic ignition systems became common), you can pick up a relatively decent yet inexpensive set for less than $20US on sites like amazon or even probably aliexpress or bangood or (and I hesitate to say this because I have heard many horror stories about the items purchased from them) maybe even temu. They may not offer as long of a reach as those wrenches like you mentioned do but the dedicated geometry of the ends certainly goes a long way towards keeping your nuts and bolts from being rounded off leaving you with having to invest in an extractor set or resort to using things like 'vise grip pliers' or 'channel locks' or even pipe wrenches to remove the nut or bolt so it can be completely replaced (unless it happens to be some kind of one-off specially machined fastener, in which case you might just be 'screwed', no pun intended, well only a little, lol).
Excellent tips on tools to get. Not sure if you mentioned it on the Microfiber cloth part, but they're pretty fairly cheap at most hardware stores (Harbor Freight takes the W on this one.) Something that I'm looking for, as I'm in a basement apartment with pretty bad sound insulation, is a 3D printer case, shelf, box, display, Something to let me put it in, close the door, and still be able to monitor it without worrying if there's enough room in there, or vibrations causing the ripple effect on the print. It can also potentially help with the smell of PETG that, while "safe", isn't pleasant to have your apartment smell like. I can see you've got one in the background, but you haven't yet gone over how well it works and how you made it/got it.
70% ipa is better for cleaning. It doesn't evaporate as quickly giving you more working time before you need to rewet your rag. Overall you'll clean your mess faster and with less ipa.
How has nobody mentioned you rubbing the white printing from the factory off your build plate with the 99% isopropyl at @ 4:28 😄 (it probably shouldn't come off so easily)
I found the bags for vacuum storage of filament were not that sturdy and ended up with holes in them from pushing them into places they were not meant to go. In the end, I bought a food vacuum sealing machine and use rolls of heavy-duty vacuum bags. They cut to size and are so cheap they are disposable. As the bags are made for cooking in boiling water, they are really strong. The only problem I have found is my wife nicking the machine to seal food in and leaving me out of rolls of bag plastic.😖😖😖
I printed a mechanical demo object wich only held together at one cornor. but the blue gear was mounted in another corner by 2 round elements with a hole in it, I decidet to put some fillamen strings in this hole and used my 3D Pen to fix them on the model, so the object is less floppy and more stable.
Use Bambu build plate glue stick. It creates a thin barrier between the part and build plate. It makes the part stick and also the part comes off the plate easily. It cleans off with water. Bambu printers come with it.
paper towels not enviromentaly friendly? they are biodegradable, you throw them into compost and in 3 days they are gone and are nutrients for your compost. wtf
The deburring tool is sold complete in the home depot plumbing department.... It's been sold as a plumbing tool for most of my life... nothing you need to go to china to get.
@5:00 isopropyl will dissolve the alcohol but it isn’t necessarily all picked up by your rag. a lot of it remains on the plate, requiring dish soap and water to remove. this is well documented.
Isopropyl alcohol _is_ the alcohol itself. It's just a different chemical structure than the alcohol so many people think of that can be drunk. ;) When a bottle of IPA says it's 70% or 90%, that's the concentration of the alcohol in the solution. The remaining percentage is typically deionized water (which is actually not good for you to drink all on its own!)
I just store my filament in a big box with a big silica gel container inside. When it saturates i just put it in microwave in a galss bowl to refresh it. Works for my PETG in Netanya.
I wasted 1/2 a roll of asa trying to get to stick. Hairspray and gluestick. my bed looks god awful. but it sticks now also bumped my E step to 425.2 mm with a BMG knock off. After that I was able to print my Glock 19 mini in asa.
The whole vacuum bag and air tight storage container thing is overkill, unless you're planning on storing your filament longterm. Dehydrate the roll, put it in a large zip-loc with a container of silica beads, suck the air out from an open corner and then zip it shut. As long as the silica beads go in dry, it doesn't matter if there's vacuum - there's so little air flow that the beads will keep the roll dry until your next use. Much easier and less costly.
I have a glass print bed. I use cheap hair spray for adhesion. Wipe it down with alcohol one a week. Once a month it gets wiped with acetone. granted, I pretty much only print in PLA, so take it with a grain of salt. I also bought a cheap food dehydrator, modified the trays so I can fit two spools plus one regular try to put silica packs (even the non-reusable ones) and put it on low for 9 hours. everything gets dried and I can reuse the packs as well.
Good call splitting videos. Most people probably don't want to or don't have time to watch a 30 minute video and you have to appease the algorithm gods haha.
'its not stupid if it works' sage advice that gets you put on the do not recommend list because stupid is stupid period and making it seem like stupid solutions are worth pursuing makes you look bad. congrats i wasnt looking for a reason to block you but you provided one free of charge
You might or might not know it but you are a "natural" presenter. HOWEVER video's that are longer than 10 minutes and pushing 15 minutes just becomes TEDIOUS. IF a presentation is properly planned one can impart a lot of information in less than 10 minutes. The saying goes "how do you eat an elephant 🐘?" The CORRECT answer is "bite by bite". 😃 About print bed cleaning 😌. I avoid touching the print bed as much as possible. For occasional cleaning I use medical alcohol that comes as small patches. Getting anything from outside our country is virtually impossible as it has taken on average 4 months and was not then stolen in customs. Nowadays the only way is by international courier at about 1000% ripoff.
BTW it seems as if 3D printing will bring America out of the Dark Ages 🤔 of imperial measurements as Americans are now forced to use millimeters, kilograms and °C.
@@thenextlayer well corner warped. Saw the tip to use super glue to past the corner back on the big print.... Sadly super glue binds to textured pei.. Alcohol acetone and even flame torch didnt help. Pei comes of with super glue
כי לצערי גם בקושי יש קהל. גם ככה הסירטונים שלי באנגלית אולים מלאה להפיק וזה לא ממש ממש רווחי…ֶביברית עוד יוצר נראה לי. אולי אני יכול לדובב אותם, אבל אין סיכוי שאני אשלם לעוד עורך סירטונים בישראל (שלי לא דובר עברית)
As a new member of the 3D printing community (Ender 3 S1 Pro + Halot One Pro), you have my gratitude. I've been constantly searching for new ideas, tips, tricks, and everything in between; your videos have been the most helpful by a longshot.
I've had great success using vinegar instead of isopropyl alcohol for degreasing the buildplate. Even better than alcohol in fact. This was recommended to me by my 3D printing friend.
@@thenextlayer IPA isn't exactly pleasant too 😆 If someone doesn't care for the smell or just in a pinch - it's worth a try. I mostly use spirit vinegar but even rice vinegar works, it's fancier and less aromatic ;)
I just started the video and you have already provided me a great tool I would never have thought of. Curling prints- I never would have thought to use a lighter to heat and then flatten the area before the situation becomes a horrible outcome. Thank you!! Now, back to the video.
THANK YOU so much for watching! Let me know what you think in the comments - I read every single one :)
Maybe look into garolite/fr4 as an option for ASA. :)
No sir thank YOU, some of these tools are things I wouldn't have put much thought into.
For bed adhesion plus a few other tips have a look at this one it might help ;P
ruclips.net/video/zqidSM-TxZU/видео.html
The reason IPA stops working on your bed is you need different solvents for polar and non-polar contaminants. Alcohol will not remove sugars and some plastics, like PLA, when heated will degrade to sugars.
With your cigar lighter torch..another useful tool that I use is a METAL chopstick. With both ends being rounded and one side a bit larger than the other, you can smooth out whatever part you heated up to fix (better than a butter knife) plus you can heat up either end to help weld parts together. Just an idea.
Us price for Voxel pla is $16.99/kg. In Canada, at Amazon, Voxel pla sells for $25.99/kg. So at 15% exchange rate on the Canadian dollar it should be $19.54/kg... not $25.99. As soon as something comes across the border into Canada, companies seem to think that they have been given freedom to gouge rights!
The 15-20 minute length is a sweet spot for me when the material is presented in a clean and cohesive fashion. I am subject to interruptions when I spend too long watching videos (wife, kids, cat, household emergencies, etc.) so being able to cherry pick videos based on length is a habit I have fallen into post-covid. Not to say I don't watch longer videos (Critical Role, anyone?) but I get to watch them in sections.
He speaks clearly enough that the video is very easy to watch at 2x playback speed :) lets see some 30-40 minute videos!
Most pharmacies (at least in the US) carry 90%/91% alcohol, it should work just fine for bed cleaning. The 99% and 100% alcohols will evaporate so quickly that it becomes a challenge to accomplish the CLEANING. Even 91% evaporates pretty quick.
For the ball end Allen Keys, I strongly suggest these 4 brands: Allen, Bondhus, Wera, PB Swiss.
A burr is an unwanted bump left over from the manufacturing process.
I've never tried Voxel PLA, I need to correct that! I laughed at the manual pump option. I only did that about twice before I went to the electric pump! Love the tool list, so many great ones and I need that low profile wrench, that thing is fabulous!
Thanks Courtney! Honored as always that you're watching. I hope you'll join our Discord, I'm setting up a mastermind with myself, Stefan from CNC Kitchen, Uncle Jessie, Albert from 247, etc... you are of course welcome to join :)
A 3D pen is definitely useful. I was printing a planet carrier for a planetary gearbox, the planet carrier would require a lot of support to print it as is, so I split it up into the main body of the carrier and the pins. I printed the pins with a hexagon pin on the end and the carrier with a hexagonal hole. These fit together well and then I used a 3D printing pen to melt them together, making the join almost as strong if not as strong as the rest of the print.
Another cool application I just thought of is to use on wear surfaces on your prints, when it wears down you could just use the pen to add another layer of material on top, sand it to the required shape and then use it again, without having to reprint the entire piece. Similarly you could just use it for repairing 3D prints.
If you can't find 99% buy the 70% alcohol and then add salt to it and all the water will drift to the bottom and give you almost pure alcohol on top.
Lol
91% isopropyl is generally the same thing as 99% its a semantic thing because of how alcohol purity is measured.
Good to know thanks!!
It is good to see a channel is growing solidly 👍Keep on good work man
Thanks! Hoping and hoping to get to 100K!
The deburring tool may have a rounded point, but you can still cut yourself pretty badly if you aren’t careful. Just FYI 👍
Filament in the oven? Hard pass. A food dehydrator works great and has less risk of melting the whole roll. My oven only goes as low as 170°F but with how the temperature controls work, it's all but guaranteed the temperature will go higher as the heating element is on.
So, there are people who think paper towels are adding to the massive amount of trash in garbage dumps? Paper towels? The things that dissolve in water?
99% isn’t necessarily better than 70% iso.
It depends on the situation, but having some water in the mix improves a fair amount of processes
RUclips definitely rewards frequency over video length however watch hours are also important. It’s RUclips so you don’t have to have a super polished video with tons of editing and multiple takes to get it right. Don’t be afraid to go raw so to speak.
I’m too much of a perfectionist!
this was definitely a very useful video. I’m a newbie to 3d printing and am interested in learning more about 3d printing. I love videos that talk about all the tools you need and where to get them. Thanks for adding links and also thanks for sharing other youtube channels that you follow. I definitely prefer shorter videos so that they are more frequent and not have to wait a long time for the next one. Thanks for sharing 😊
You got it and thanks for the feedback
I store my in-use filaments in an IKEA SAMLA container with weather sealing added to the lip. It's filled with 4L of reusable silica in fine mesh bags. I use some printed PETG SAMLA clips to keep it sealed tight. Easily holds 8 spools, and could stuff another 4 or more if I really wanted to pack it full. The reusable silica can be dried out again in the oven.
I think I saw the first iteration of this idea from CNC Kitchen.
Funny talking about the environment and recommending microfiber clothes. They release so much micro plastics in our water supplies when washed.
I had no idea…!
I send my glass plates through my dishwasher and they work great. I still use glue stick on them because otherwise I can’t get anything to release lol.
I didn’t know you could do that!!! Thanks, I’ll try it next time
I actually disagree with your findings on the IPA. I buy 99% and dilute it down to ~75% with distilled water. I find plain old 99% evaporates too quickly and its much more likely to cause skin irritation especially after repeated exposure. Same for the fumes as well.
Rest of the video is excellent though. Just some food for thought on the IPA. 🙂
Oh that's interesting...
4:30 Looks like the 99% alcohol was also taking off the white markings on your print bed, too :)
That was acetone, OOPS
When you cut or drill metal you are left with a little material around the edge of the cut or hole, this material is a very thin layer of very sharp metal, that is what a burr is. The deburring tool runs along these cut or drilled edges and removes the unwanted metal, it helps with the finish of the part and it removes the razor sharp burrs, making it safer to handle. So it is a tool for removing unwanted material from edges, which is why it is also very good for 3D prints and cleaning up edges.
Nice. Thanks for the education!
Those ball head allen keys are great until you try to use the ball end to finish tightening bolts then you start stripping metal. If you do end up using ball end wrenches do not tighten all the way with the ball end, ball end should do 90% of work getting bolt in with final torque coming from flat end to make sure you dont strip bolts. I ran a bicycle shop and hate ball end allen wrenches with a passion because my techs never cared how to use them
Great advice, thanks for sharing!
I wipe down my head bed with isopropyl alcohol with a fresh paper towel before every print and about every two weeks I wash the build plate with good dish soap. These steps really help the curling off the build plate. Thanks for the vids
I’ve been washing mine after every print. I’m NEW to this.
I think shorter videos more often will also help with viewer retention as well. +1 vote for shorter more frequent videos
Awesome, thanks. I'll do that, then
יש לי המון לילמוד בתחום ואני אצפה בסירטונים קצרים או ארוכים , העיקר שיהיה מעניין ומעשיר את הבנתי בתחום :)
תודה עבור השיתוף :)
(: THANK YOU FROM ISRAEL
Many build plates have a PEI surface now. The proper cleaning for that surface is dish soap, as you indicated, but for cleaning between prints, the recommended concentration of isopropyl alcohol is 80-90%. 99% will deteriorate the surface quicker and reduce its effectiveness. For vacuum sealing filament bags, some kitchen vacuum sealers have an external adapter. This allows you to use the resealable bag the filament shipped with and vacuum the air out. The 3D pen can also be used to build up a thin wall before sanding it smooth. Fixes the problem spot and sanding smooth hides the crude fix marks. Look for the hacks where you can use them.
SUBSCRIBED! Thx for the awesome content with various uncommon topics. God bless you!
"I dont even know what a burr is." ...Then proceeds do define it perfectly spot on, LOL! Love the channel, new subscriber. A tip when ordering rotary burr knife blades: For 3D printed parts, be sure to order blades designed to use on aluminum and soft metals, NOT the ones for hard steel. They have different cutting angles, and the one for steel will chatter as you pull it along a part edge, leaving a worse edge than you started with. Also be aware that the blades made for soft materials are ground at different angles on each side and are designed to cut in one direction. If you cut along an edge, and then cut backwards going the opposite direction, it will chatter and make a saw-blade-like edge on the part. These can be found in right and left direction. The blades made for hard steel have the cutting edge ground equally on both sides of the blade and work in both directions. Generally, a right handed blade is designed to draw inward (right to left direction)or toward yourself with your right hand, which gives the most stable control and smoothest cut. Vice-versa for a left hand blade in your left hand.
These tools work incredibly well for de-burring or breaking the sharp edge of holes. With a right handed blade, whip it around the hole edge in a clockwise direction, and vice-versa for a left hand blade. In the machinist world, we call this tool a burr whip, and used correctly and with some practice can create a very fine, precise edge bevel or hole chamfer that looks as clean as if it were machined that way.
New to your RUclips channel. Great content and Info. I like the shorter videos, maybe 10-15 minuets. With the links in the comments as needed.
Dave Vail
Fredericksburg Va. (USA)
Nice list! Adding the wrench to my kit. The others I was already using. 2 tips I've come across related to these tools.
Tip 1: Instead of the cigar lighter look up butane soldering irons. They usually have small heat gun attachment that can very precisely heat or clear strings. Along with the torch and metal tips you can use for shaping or cutting prints. Berkling BSG-568 is a quality unit, but there are other cheaper ones.
Tip 2: There are other blades for your deburring tool! Noga is a high quality brand that has so many attachments it will make your head spin. One I want to feature is the S150 blade that will drop into your current tool. It is designed for plastics and has a much finer point that the typical S10 style, which is great for getting into tight spaces on your 3d prints.
Nice job explaining the uses of each item featured!
Wow great tips (no pun intended) THANK YOU
People make 3d printing more expensive and troublesome that it needs to be. You're the second video I watched tonight exclaiming the usefulness of isopropyl and microfiber rags. I have two Ender3s. I use the cheap kindergarten glue sticks from Amazon. When the build up gets crappy, I run the build plates under warm tap water and use a sponge to remove the glue. Then I put down a new layer of glue and go. If it doesn't stick, I probably need to relevel my bed. As to hygrometers. I keep a one-room dehumidifier next to my print station and run it year around with a setting of 50%. I've never had a filament, no matter how old, to give any problems. And by the way, they sit out unwrapped. But-- Is there an unusually high humidity in Israel?
I see the 3D pens are basically mini mig-welders. Had my main printers PSU's explode while I was making custom ductwork for a clients PC build on a tight timeline - redesigned the parts to fit on a smaller unit (chopping each piece into sections with lips / pins and chamfers all around...) super glue to locate parts, 3D pen to fill the chamfers, sand flat. Seamless perfection with not a whole lot of extra work. Given that the seams are also "100% infill", yay stronk, you can use a higher temp than normal printing without worrying about stringing. That and dragging the hot tip across the printed surface while depositing new stuff allows the new material to both fully fuse, and key in with the base material.
Re: paper towels
3:19 By definition paper is a "green" (laughable term) resource. It is easily biodegradable and extremely renewable - the plastic microfiber towel is the one that is NOT "environmentally friendly". 🙄
The reason 70% isopropyl alcohol exists is to sanitize. The higher-level alcohols evaporate too quickly to be able to have the time to kill anything so you need some water in them to slow down the evaporation.
Obviously we're not dealing with food so the higher-alcohol variants are fine. But if you already have 70%, it works just fine (and your bed will now be sanitized!).
Great video!
I don't know if you were joking or not but just in case you weren't... Deburring tools are indeed designed to remove burrs. A burr is something that machinists like me encounter a lot.
Whenever you cut a piece of metal, whether it's with a milling cutter or on a lathe or with a saw, it always leaves a raised rough edge called a burr.
Burrs are problematic, because not only do they constitute a scratching or cutting hazard for your poor fingers, the fact that they are raised means that they can cause parts that have tight tolerances not to fit together properly. We use deburring tools in the shop a lot remove these birds so that parts fit properly and don't cut anyone. Also, two straight cuts meeting at a 90° angle can leave a very sharp corner. Even though it may not be a burr as such, we used to bring tools to break these hard edges.
I hope that was informative!
I get the impression and forgive me if I'm wrong, that before you got into 3D printing you didn't do much other making except probably wood working. Coming from an automotive and metal working place to watch making and then to 3D printing as part of a general Maker's journey, I find it interesting what tools people do and do not know are out there. I also find that the most interesting things come from people who have two intersecting maker specialties that may not necessarily always be combined.
I am looking at getting into 3D printing in this video is extremely helpful please keep up the good work and keep making great content.
i Have had success printing Nylon and NinjaTek materials with Prusa MK4 or 3S+ with satin plate and their default settings
When you started talking about alcohol and you made that comment about using it on your bed. I had temporarily forgotten that this video was about 3D printers...
I was really really confused.
I've never really been a fan of those 'one size fits all' wrenches like you mentioned when talking about the thin wrench you use. Instead having worked as a mechanic for many years and having seen how those wrenches can eventually round off a nut or bolt head I often opt for a set of what were in the past referred to as 'ignition wrenches' (because they were pretty essential when working on points style ignition systems on older vehicles before electronic ignition systems became common), you can pick up a relatively decent yet inexpensive set for less than $20US on sites like amazon or even probably aliexpress or bangood or (and I hesitate to say this because I have heard many horror stories about the items purchased from them) maybe even temu. They may not offer as long of a reach as those wrenches like you mentioned do but the dedicated geometry of the ends certainly goes a long way towards keeping your nuts and bolts from being rounded off leaving you with having to invest in an extractor set or resort to using things like 'vise grip pliers' or 'channel locks' or even pipe wrenches to remove the nut or bolt so it can be completely replaced (unless it happens to be some kind of one-off specially machined fastener, in which case you might just be 'screwed', no pun intended, well only a little, lol).
Excellent tips on tools to get. Not sure if you mentioned it on the Microfiber cloth part, but they're pretty fairly cheap at most hardware stores (Harbor Freight takes the W on this one.)
Something that I'm looking for, as I'm in a basement apartment with pretty bad sound insulation, is a 3D printer case, shelf, box, display, Something to let me put it in, close the door, and still be able to monitor it without worrying if there's enough room in there, or vibrations causing the ripple effect on the print. It can also potentially help with the smell of PETG that, while "safe", isn't pleasant to have your apartment smell like.
I can see you've got one in the background, but you haven't yet gone over how well it works and how you made it/got it.
I have a video coming about this, probably at the end of the month or early January, stay tuned you’re gonna love it and make sure you’re subscribed
70% ipa is better for cleaning. It doesn't evaporate as quickly giving you more working time before you need to rewet your rag. Overall you'll clean your mess faster and with less ipa.
How has nobody mentioned you rubbing the white printing from the factory off your build plate with the 99% isopropyl at @ 4:28 😄 (it probably shouldn't come off so easily)
I found the bags for vacuum storage of filament were not that sturdy and ended up with holes in them from pushing them into places they were not meant to go. In the end, I bought a food vacuum sealing machine and use rolls of heavy-duty vacuum bags. They cut to size and are so cheap they are disposable. As the bags are made for cooking in boiling water, they are really strong. The only problem I have found is my wife nicking the machine to seal food in and leaving me out of rolls of bag plastic.😖😖😖
good tips
I use simple green to clean things. Its environmentally friendly smells better and much cheaper . $10 per gallon vs $40 for 99% ipa
I printed a mechanical demo object wich only held together at one cornor. but the blue gear was mounted in another corner by 2 round elements with a hole in it, I decidet to put some fillamen strings in this hole and used my 3D Pen to fix them on the model, so the object is less floppy and more stable.
The amount of torching my gridfinity caliper holder has also been subjected to...
Some pharmacies and even Publix grocery stores sell a 91% isopropyl alcohol in the USA.
No lie, that cigar torch hack to fix curling/lifting is incredible. That one is gonna save a lot of grief.
So glad, I was worried people would give me a hard time for it lol
Paper towels are literally biodegradable and come from renewable sources (trees). +1 on microfiber towels though.
I can't understand that people still use those crappy allen keys. There are screwdriver-shaped hex keys. Much better to use! ;)
Use Bambu build plate glue stick. It creates a thin barrier between the part and build plate. It makes the part stick and also the part comes off the plate easily. It cleans off with water. Bambu printers come with it.
What's the print file for your pegboard on your wall? :P
I definitely prefer the longer videos. Thank you and keep up the good work
I don’t like and subscribe until I’ve watched at least 3 videos. But after this I’m pretty sure it’s going to take one more 😂
paper towels not enviromentaly friendly? they are biodegradable, you throw them into compost and in 3 days they are gone and are nutrients for your compost. wtf
The deburring tool is sold complete in the home depot plumbing department.... It's been sold as a plumbing tool for most of my life... nothing you need to go to china to get.
With the dish soap bit, it’s all sodium lauryl sulfate. But don’t use anything with glycerol in it.
Leave it to the mother in law to fix your 3D printing. LOL... Awesome
Tel Avivian Humidity ?? אתה משלנו ? 😳
A food dehydrator is a good way to dry your filament and generally a lot more useful and cheaper than buying an actual filament dryer.
4:09 - Another thing is to maybe wipe the bed when it's cool, so some of the alcohol doesn't evaporate through the high heat.
@5:00 isopropyl will dissolve the alcohol but it isn’t necessarily all picked up by your rag. a lot of it remains on the plate, requiring dish soap and water to remove. this is well documented.
Isopropyl alcohol _is_ the alcohol itself. It's just a different chemical structure than the alcohol so many people think of that can be drunk. ;) When a bottle of IPA says it's 70% or 90%, that's the concentration of the alcohol in the solution. The remaining percentage is typically deionized water (which is actually not good for you to drink all on its own!)
Hey brother, I tried to reach out to you here and on X but didn’t hear back. Need your help on something
I just store my filament in a big box with a big silica gel container inside. When it saturates i just put it in microwave in a galss bowl to refresh it. Works for my PETG in Netanya.
Yeah, space is tough for me here, but I need to find a better solution for sure
I wasted 1/2 a roll of asa trying to get to stick. Hairspray and gluestick. my bed looks god awful. but it sticks now also bumped my E step to 425.2 mm with a BMG knock off. After that I was able to print my Glock 19 mini in asa.
Yikes! That hurts at $30+ a roll
Forget cleqning with alcohol, use soap. Alcohol is not used in kithcen
great video!
Thanks!
Was really confused why he was cleaning his bedsheets with alcohol
I just use the wife’s cordless vacuum with the tube revolved.
a lot of things I order come with silica packs, so I just keep them. if they work they work, if they don't, ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
They’re almost certainly saturated by now, but you have no way to know
For not knowing what a "burr" is you sure defined it really well 😂
The whole vacuum bag and air tight storage container thing is overkill, unless you're planning on storing your filament longterm. Dehydrate the roll, put it in a large zip-loc with a container of silica beads, suck the air out from an open corner and then zip it shut. As long as the silica beads go in dry, it doesn't matter if there's vacuum - there's so little air flow that the beads will keep the roll dry until your next use. Much easier and less costly.
Good point
I have a glass print bed. I use cheap hair spray for adhesion. Wipe it down with alcohol one a week. Once a month it gets wiped with acetone. granted, I pretty much only print in PLA, so take it with a grain of salt. I also bought a cheap food dehydrator, modified the trays so I can fit two spools plus one regular try to put silica packs (even the non-reusable ones) and put it on low for 9 hours. everything gets dried and I can reuse the packs as well.
PLA will stick to anything. Try using ASA lol.
you can also use the cigar ligther to remove cobwebs or webbing
Yes please try polycarbonate and nylon that kinda materials
Try surgical rags as an alternative to microfiber. Lint free
Is your pegboard 3d printed too? Where I find it? hahahah
Awesome Video! I wish I had this video when we started our print farm.
Thanks! And thank you so much for making this video possible!
I like the way you think. Cigar lighters are a great option for applying focused heat. :)
Yes they are!
Good call splitting videos. Most people probably don't want to or don't have time to watch a 30 minute video and you have to appease the algorithm gods haha.
Thanks!
'its not stupid if it works' sage advice that gets you put on the do not recommend list because stupid is stupid period and making it seem like stupid solutions are worth pursuing makes you look bad. congrats i wasnt looking for a reason to block you but you provided one free of charge
If one sentence is enough for you to “block” me…. We don’t need you around here baiii! This community is for friendly people only.
Free Shipping in the USA for orders with 3 spools or more!
A "scrap" soldering iron for setting inserts, smoothing 3D pen repairs and reworking holes etc. really comes in clutch.
Nice idea!
You might or might not know it but you are a "natural" presenter. HOWEVER video's that are longer than 10 minutes and pushing 15 minutes just becomes TEDIOUS. IF a presentation is properly planned one can impart a lot of information in less than 10 minutes. The saying goes "how do you eat an elephant 🐘?" The CORRECT answer is "bite by bite". 😃
About print bed cleaning 😌. I avoid touching the print bed as much as possible.
For occasional cleaning I use medical alcohol that comes as small patches.
Getting anything from outside our country is virtually impossible as it has taken on average 4 months and was not then stolen in customs. Nowadays the only way is by international courier at about 1000% ripoff.
BTW it seems as if 3D printing will bring America out of the Dark Ages 🤔 of imperial measurements as Americans are now forced to use millimeters, kilograms and °C.
Thanks for the kind words! I’ve put in a ton of work to come off as a “Natural” hehehe
I wish you told me about the lighter trick before i ruined my PEI bed 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
Ouch :( How'd you do that?
@@thenextlayer well corner warped. Saw the tip to use super glue to past the corner back on the big print.... Sadly super glue binds to textured pei.. Alcohol acetone and even flame torch didnt help.
Pei comes of with super glue
micro fibre leaves a lot of micro plastic. Bad idea
"as I mentioned in my 3d printed videos tool" 😂13:09
great video I just thought that was funny
Good catch!
ממש אוהב את הסרטונים שלך!
למה אתה לא עושה סרטונים בעברית?
אין יוצרי תוכן בנושא הזה בעברית בכלל...
כי לצערי גם בקושי יש קהל. גם ככה הסירטונים שלי באנגלית אולים מלאה להפיק וזה לא ממש ממש רווחי…ֶביברית עוד יוצר נראה לי. אולי אני יכול לדובב אותם, אבל אין סיכוי שאני אשלם לעוד עורך סירטונים בישראל (שלי לא דובר עברית)
I would love to see hou try Nylon or ASA. I bought 2 rolls myself, bit haven’t tryed it.
I print a ton of ASA
As a new member of the 3D printing community (Ender 3 S1 Pro + Halot One Pro), you have my gratitude. I've been constantly searching for new ideas, tips, tricks, and everything in between; your videos have been the most helpful by a longshot.
Thanks! Glad you like!
A bur is usually a sliver of metal around the edge
i ever use querosene plus toilette papel to clean my bed.
I've had great success using vinegar instead of isopropyl alcohol for degreasing the buildplate. Even better than alcohol in fact. This was recommended to me by my 3D printing friend.
Oh wow that's surprising. But...the smell!
@@thenextlayer IPA isn't exactly pleasant too 😆 If someone doesn't care for the smell or just in a pinch - it's worth a try. I mostly use spirit vinegar but even rice vinegar works, it's fancier and less aromatic ;)
I just started the video and you have already provided me a great tool I would never have thought of. Curling prints- I never would have thought to use a lighter to heat and then flatten the area before the situation becomes a horrible outcome. Thank you!! Now, back to the video.
Glad to be of service. Subscribe, more coming soon
1:43 please just pause the print, its way easier
Did you just start RUclips with some good cameras and lights? I'll give you this it feel like I'm watching ltt in terms of production value.
Nah he's got 3 other channels on random stuff like bitcoin
Thanks, I've been in content production for a long time, and have the budget to invest in good equipment :)
Would prefer the shorter videos variant. Better split the content in several parts than leaving it in a 40 minutes piece.
Awesome, glad to hear, because that's what works well for my team and I
In most places in the States you can't buy 90% isopropyl alcohol.
You can get 91% anywhere - Walmart, the grocery store, etc
You can use a dehydrator as a cheap heater for your filament. It actually works/
True, true