Mine did a half cat anyway. The build plates on these are about as flat as a bowling ball. Just skip trying to print on the stock plate/buildtak like surface and put glass on it. I honestly wish they left the build tak off and kept $1 profit more, because it is a pain to remove it if you want to take it off.
Build plate can't be calibrated because in most cases from what I heard on fb group and in my case because it's not flat. So you will need extra glass bed. USB printing does not work well, it will keep making pauses in the middle of printing. Same goes when I tried to print via WiFi, so only with SD Card will work without these extra stops. Cancel option does not work well, it's very random.
Tips for PERFECT prints with this printer: First let me say that there are big differences between V1 and V2 of this printer. The V2 has a more reliable power supply, does not have the haphazard wiring to the bed heater, reliable fans, etc. I found that using Cura is the best option for slicing. IMPORTANT - Start by first leveling your bed after unboxing. The extruder tip has a cutoff switch, telling the printer when the hot nozzle is in contact with the bed. I've seen first users melting into their black bed adhesion surface with an unleveled bed. I have printed dozens of objects and not once have I melted the adhesion surface. I level by raising the Z azis by one minimal turn of the rotary knob. Use a sheet of paper, folded such that it JUST makes contact with the (slightly) raised nozzle. Adjust according on all corners and in the center so that the same amount of paper-to-nozzle distance is equal.
Why would you raise the nozzle first? Out of the box you should lower the bed then hit "Home" home sets the nozzle at the print Z height and you simply raise the bed till you reach the appropriate gap to the nozzle. The stock Bed is thin aluminum and is uneven in the gaps between screws. So printing and adding a Z-Extension to the tower and adding Etched Glass for the new bed will give you the best print surface and extra height to make taller prints.
In the 6 weeks I’ve had it: 1 - The extruder broke and had to be replaced (upgrade) - £11, 2 - The bearing in the cooling is staring to fail, 3 - Print bed has warped - need a “glass bed upgrade” - still trying to find suitable glass to use. 4 - The build plate temperature sensor has died (as a result of the warping) - new thermistor needed.
This will prevent object/raft warping and prevent the nozzle from making melting contact with the bed. As for SETTING - Print the cat.gcode provided on SDCARD. If it comes out nicely, simply go into Cura and you can LOAD your profile settings from an existing gcode file. I loaded the initial settings from the cat.gcode model as a base line. From there you can make slight adjustments depending on what you are printing. Also - To get the most area out of your MP mini V2, set the machine XYZ settings to 122x122x122 in order to get the FULL 4.7 inch build area. This also helps when using skirsts/rafts/brims as they require extra build area.
Why did you guys change the Bowden connector to a cheap plastic one? It shifts the cost to the customer as soon as it shatters, as I now have to buy a replacement extruder.
To anyone with this printer, I'd appreciate if you answer this for me: Is the hotend an exact replica of the e3d v6? If I got an e3d v6, would it fit into the printer's stock mount with no issues? Or would I have to print a new x carriage? Thanks in advance.
I highly recommend printing a bunch of nickle testers or right angle testers instead of the included cat (and using 10% fill). Also i don't recommend using kapton tape unless you have a 120 mm wide roll (or sheet). The overlaps of the strips of tape look pretty awful on the finish
THAT!!! was my only problem using this awesome little printer the technique for levelling the bed ... was not good and that is why one of my first mods was to customise the bed so that you can adjust it using ...like you say knobs ;) ive now done the same to my two other mpsm and also to my two i3 printers
Spool Storage Orientation: Is there any deformation issue when storing filament horizontally (like in the background shelves) vs. vertically (like as a roll of toilet paper would hang) when not in use?
Shouldn't be. I have another 3D printer and the filament is both stored and actually fed into the printer in the horizontal orientation and I haven't had any problems
Temperature IS important. I've so far only used PLA and use a nozzle temp of 205 and bed temp of 55. Minimum nozzle resolution I use 0.2mm, unless it is a very small and detailed part in which I then use a setting of 0.1mm. Avoid using rafts if the object has an overall flat first layer AND is not "top heavy". I always use a skirt or brim simply to prime the extruder. This ensures accurate, even layers when the actual object begins to print. More questions, feel free to email (relic1974@gmail.com) and I'm considering constructing a fan website dedicated to THIS printer !!!
I got this as my first printer a couple weeks ago. I bought it on amazon. I would give it a 10/10 experience for the price. The print quality is pretty awesome Slicer software is free, and so is cad software. Get this with a few spools of pla and for under 300 bucks you can get into 3d printing.
Iamnobodyimportant Yes this is a good first printer as it comes with a cat so no need software to test and it comes all assembled and very easy to learn and good price
If you're thinking of getting a 3D printer then you need to ask yourself 1 VERY important question ... is it to be a tool or a toy. The distinction: As a toy: you're going to be happy tinkering with it - replacing bits / improving bits ... like with custom cars. You know, just as happy working IN/ON the engine as driving the thing. As a tool: you’re expecting to just make your designs and throw them at the printer. My experience of the Monoprice Mini Select: Its a toy, a £229 toy, but still a toy. In the 6 weeks I’ve had it: 1 - The extruder broke and had to be replaced (upgrade) - £11, 2 - The bearing in the cooling is staring to fail, 3 - Print bed has warped - need a “glass bed upgrade” - still trying to find suitable glass to use. 4 - The build plate temperature sensor has died (as a result of the warping) - new thermistor needed.
Martyn Hutchby I bought this around the time you commented. As a toy and to see if i can handle 3d printing (I have no patients) This is certainly a great starter and to my untrained eye near perfect on fine layer height. I have managed to eat through 1 PLA spool and I'm half way through an ABS. Now I'm looking into getting a proper printer. What would you recommend need 300 x 200 bed?
The Creality Cr-10 Mini would be a good option. It has a build volume of 300x220x300, glass heated bed, filament run-out sensor, and pretty good quality for the price. I currently have an Anycubic i3 Mega and it seems to be working really well, especially for the price.
I really need some help with my monoprice select mini v2. I am having a hard time getting it to print anything. It will print the cat.gcode model just fine. I've downloaded a bunch of stl models from thingiverse. I've only gotten 2 models to print so far . One is an adapter for a 40mm gas mask. I opened the stl file in cura then loaded the gcode profile from the cat model. It printed fine. I've tried this same technique with my other models and when I go to print, the printer does nothing. The progress bar on the front of the printer begins moving like it's printing but the printer does nothing. What am I doing wrong? I'm getting very frustrated.
AnyGamesEver well duh, I'm using cura. Anyway I figured it out. My files and sd card became corrupted from all the copying and from not ejecting the card properly. After reformatting the card everything works fine now
Seriously...will following your tutorial to the t really help the mp select mini and all its problematic issues and one other thing - this printer is far from cheap after you experience all the issues, AND YOU WILL, retarded upgrades, hairspray, lipstick, mud masks, ky jelly and everything else this perfect printer requires just to get it to print and good luck if it does. Bye😃
The instructions with mine says to use the Cura version on the included SD card. Every time I use it, (Cura), it offers me an updated version. Should I be using the old one or the new one? Thanks, Rocky
when i go to extrude, the filament comes out fine, but when I start a print, the filament won't come out, and it just goes in the motion of the program and does nothing
Sounds like your slicer settings are messed up (example: the origin '0,0,0' coordinate is wrong and the printer is starting in the wrong place) or you are slicing for a different printer and this one interprets the Gcode wrong
Plz help. I got one of these printers from you guys and it arived with a non working lcd screen. Noone has gotten back to me nor refunded me. I cant print if i cant see ehat im doing. I cannot afford a new piece and its obsurd it arived in such a state. 1 star until youre client support decides to actually respond
I bought this thing and I wish I had returned it when I had the chance. It never sticks to the plate, I've tried different temperature variations with painters tape, glue, etc. it still won't stick with fist layer :/
Version2 has it's own grip and it sticks very well. Almost too good. So either you have version 1 or you have the extruder nozzle too high off the bed. You can also try building a raft support. Are you using cura or pronterface to slice and print?
@@ericperkins3078 I appreciate your feedback, but this is incorrect. I did temperature variations from 190-230 varying by 5. I use another printer with a build plate of 960mm^3 that works great, but it's also not a $160 printer
@@SBinKMedia add a small glass top to the bed and use some clips to hold in place then lightly spray some hairspray on the glass and it WILL stick ;) obviously you also have to alter your z height when you home as to compensate the thickness of the glass ;)
Proper sound treatment should be compressed fiberglass or, better yet, rock wool. The foam is very limited in the frequency ranges it absorbs. (Professional studio engineer here.)
No, it cannot. For you to print PETG or any other flexible filament, you would need to have a direct drive printer, meaning that the motor that pushes the filament needs to be mounted right next to the extruder. If you try printing PETG on a printer that does not have direct drive, the filament would bunch up and get clogged in the PTFE guide tube.
@@Edzilla007 you are WRONG!!! yes you can print with flexi filament NIKS DAYA Dont listen to this guy i have three of these and even use one set up for wood filaments only prob it have to keep replacing the nozzel .. ;)
NoLuckJustSkill | KurryKiller™ And there’s a buildtak type surface. There’s also a fan on the back for the control board and as cell said the color and the hotend
i think its because yours is the newest one just like m,y printer i got couple days ago. do you have a menu which is much more colorful and pretty then their? if yes your just like me i guess
Audio was recorded with a traffic cone.
lol
...and half the time isn’t looking at the viewer (us, aka the camera.)
Who gives an Sh*t the video serves its purpose and is decent quality. At least it isn't some random guy recording.
This video will give birth to so many glorious half cats.
neokokido actually it has enough sample filament to do the whole cat
Mine did a half cat anyway. The build plates on these are about as flat as a bowling ball.
Just skip trying to print on the stock plate/buildtak like surface and put glass on it. I honestly wish they left the build tak off and kept $1 profit more, because it is a pain to remove it if you want to take it off.
I am thinking of buying this v2. Are there more problems besides the build plate that you found?
The motors are loud as a result of cheap bearings.
Build plate can't be calibrated because in most cases from what I heard on fb group and in my case because it's not flat. So you will need extra glass bed.
USB printing does not work well, it will keep making pauses in the middle of printing. Same goes when I tried to print via WiFi, so only with SD Card will work without these extra stops.
Cancel option does not work well, it's very random.
Simple video, introducing a simple printer, with perfect amount of information, and explanations! NICE JOB
Tips for PERFECT prints with this printer: First let me say that there are big differences between V1 and V2 of this printer. The V2 has a more reliable power supply, does not have the haphazard wiring to the bed heater, reliable fans, etc.
I found that using Cura is the best option for slicing. IMPORTANT - Start by first leveling your bed after unboxing. The extruder tip has a cutoff switch, telling the printer when the hot nozzle is in contact with the bed. I've seen first users melting into their black bed adhesion surface with an unleveled bed. I have printed dozens of objects and not once have I melted the adhesion surface.
I level by raising the Z azis by one minimal turn of the rotary knob. Use a sheet of paper, folded such that it JUST makes contact with the (slightly) raised nozzle. Adjust according on all corners and in the center so that the same amount of paper-to-nozzle distance is equal.
Why would you raise the nozzle first?
Out of the box you should lower the bed then hit "Home" home sets the nozzle at the print Z height and you simply raise the bed till you reach the appropriate gap to the nozzle. The stock Bed is thin aluminum and is uneven in the gaps between screws. So printing and adding a Z-Extension to the tower and adding Etched Glass for the new bed will give you the best print surface and extra height to make taller prints.
how many cats have you printed 🤔
Just got this as my first printer and this video is exactly what I needed. Thanks for making it!
Great video, answered many of my questions. Just got the printer today and I'm printing my first 3D object now!
In the 6 weeks I’ve had it:
1 - The extruder broke and had to be replaced
(upgrade) - £11,
2 - The bearing in the cooling is staring to fail,
3 - Print bed has warped - need a “glass bed upgrade” -
still trying to find suitable glass to use.
4 - The build plate temperature sensor has died (as a result
of the warping) - new thermistor needed.
I have some of the same problems. This thing is a pos. We should start a class action lawsuit. The bed has bowed in the middle upwards.
@@robh1908 What are you? Half Jew? Just send in a complain And they might help you out. Or Try to replace some parts.
@@drwhite7285
I have tried ffs. They don't care. Customer service is nonexistent.
@@drwhite7285 wtf half jew. that as some racist shit
@@jamesv4463 , well, his name IS Dr. White. 😀
I love that you guys put in the blooper reel. Just got one today. Can't wait !
This will prevent object/raft warping and prevent the nozzle from making melting contact with the bed.
As for SETTING - Print the cat.gcode provided on SDCARD. If it comes out nicely, simply go into Cura and you can LOAD your profile settings from an existing gcode file. I loaded the initial settings from the cat.gcode model as a base line. From there you can make slight adjustments depending on what you are printing.
Also - To get the most area out of your MP mini V2, set the machine XYZ settings to 122x122x122 in order to get the FULL 4.7 inch build area. This also helps when using skirsts/rafts/brims as they require extra build area.
Thanks for making this. Waiting for delivery of my Mini V2 and this is a great intro.
can you guys post the cura settings and octopi config for this unit?
Thank you :) The video was very informative and straight to the point. Well done! I am on my way to printing now!!!
Thanks for the affordable and decent quality printer, have enjoyed these for 2+ years now.
Just the video I needed. Thanks kindly.
The hot end keeps getting clogged. I ordered a E3D Lite6 to replace the stock hot end. I am sure it will work nicely after I install it.
Great tutorial
Why did you guys change the Bowden connector to a cheap plastic one? It shifts the cost to the customer as soon as it shatters, as I now have to buy a replacement extruder.
When you cancel a print, can you continue later on? Or do you have to completely restart the print?
I have basically the same printer and my sd card no longer works, and just states “no files” help?
To anyone with this printer, I'd appreciate if you answer this for me: Is the hotend an exact replica of the e3d v6? If I got an e3d v6, would it fit into the printer's stock mount with no issues? Or would I have to print a new x carriage? Thanks in advance.
The video was great and informative but by god you seem like the nicest dude ever!
What is the best size for the filament? What is the best filament in your opinion? Any chance for wood or copper filaments on this machine?
can I use any spool holder???
I highly recommend printing a bunch of nickle testers or right angle testers instead of the included cat (and using 10% fill). Also i don't recommend using kapton tape unless you have a 120 mm wide roll (or sheet). The overlaps of the strips of tape look pretty awful on the finish
This video helped a lot with learning how to use my printer
Jeez guys with the make select mini selling like hot cakes you'd think you would at least get a blue yeti mic
What type of filament do you use
I use a mac, what slicer and machine settings do i need to use. Cura isn't working.
whats the power supply and the barrel size for it!
Where do you get spare parts ?
How do you reset the home axis? After cancelling a print it got stuck
Use manual shut-down and turn it on back again, and then use go to home axis. That's the only option that works for me.
the software on my printer only offers 3 options...
Wow, calibrating the bed with that hex key looks like a pain in the neck, why didn't they include thumb knobs instead?
THAT!!! was my only problem using this awesome little printer the technique for levelling the bed ... was not good and that is why one of my first mods was to customise the bed so that you can adjust it using ...like you say knobs ;) ive now done the same to my two other mpsm and also to my two i3 printers
Is there a way to wifi connect on apc
Spool Storage Orientation: Is there any deformation issue when storing filament horizontally (like in the background shelves) vs. vertically (like as a roll of toilet paper would hang) when not in use?
Shouldn't be. I have another 3D printer and the filament is both stored and actually fed into the printer in the horizontal orientation and I haven't had any problems
Mine keeps giving exclamation marks while loading. What does this mean?
Temperature IS important. I've so far only used PLA and use a nozzle temp of 205 and bed temp of 55. Minimum nozzle resolution I use 0.2mm, unless it is a very small and detailed part in which I then use a setting of 0.1mm. Avoid using rafts if the object has an overall flat first layer AND is not "top heavy". I always use a skirt or brim simply to prime the extruder. This ensures accurate, even layers when the actual object begins to print.
More questions, feel free to email (relic1974@gmail.com) and I'm considering constructing a fan website dedicated to THIS printer !!!
TSN Research
Nice one. .
Hey, did you start a fan website? Inquiring minds want to know. Thanks for the great tips!
Is there a V3 or later?
Last second of the Video was the Best :D
You guys are awesome !!!
that printer looks so cute,
so is the printer supposed to be loud? second question is I notice it'll shut off when it tries to move when I click home anyone got any advice?
Thank you this was such a helpful video for me
monoprice, if i were to get an open box deal from you, how likely would it have everything it needs?
What temp is sample?
😂😂😂😂the end thanks brother
How to you download the files on the sd card
Can someone tell me why my phone won't connect through wifi? You don't update the v2 do you?
how does anyone get those clips to stay? I cant get the fan to stay on.
Would someone please post as a reply, the exact URL for the v2 Firmware update. Sadly I searched the MP site and can’t find it. TIA.
How do I put my prints on the sad card or into the printer
Great job
Would anyone recommend this as a first printer for beginner? Looks straight forward enough...Anyone using this for 3d hubs?
I got this as my first printer a couple weeks ago. I bought it on amazon. I would give it a 10/10 experience for the price. The print quality is pretty awesome Slicer software is free, and so is cad software. Get this with a few spools of pla and for under 300 bucks you can get into 3d printing.
Iamnobodyimportant Yes this is a good first printer as it comes with a cat so no need software to test and it comes all assembled and very easy to learn and good price
If you're thinking of getting a 3D printer then you need to ask yourself 1 VERY important question ... is it to be a tool or a toy.
The distinction:
As a toy: you're going to be happy tinkering with it - replacing bits / improving bits ... like with custom cars. You know, just as happy working IN/ON the engine as driving the thing.
As a tool: you’re expecting to just make your designs and throw them at the printer.
My experience of the Monoprice Mini Select:
Its a toy, a £229 toy, but still a toy. In the 6 weeks I’ve had it:
1 - The extruder broke and had to be replaced
(upgrade) - £11,
2 - The bearing in the cooling is staring to fail,
3 - Print bed has warped - need a “glass bed upgrade” -
still trying to find suitable glass to use.
4 - The build plate temperature sensor has died (as a result
of the warping) - new thermistor needed.
Martyn Hutchby I bought this around the time you commented. As a toy and to see if i can handle 3d printing (I have no patients)
This is certainly a great starter and to my untrained eye near perfect on fine layer height. I have managed to eat through 1 PLA spool and I'm half way through an ABS.
Now I'm looking into getting a proper printer. What would you recommend need 300 x 200 bed?
The Creality Cr-10 Mini would be a good option. It has a build volume of 300x220x300, glass heated bed, filament run-out sensor, and pretty good quality for the price. I currently have an Anycubic i3 Mega and it seems to be working really well, especially for the price.
I really need some help with my monoprice select mini v2. I am having a hard time getting it to print anything. It will print the cat.gcode model just fine. I've downloaded a bunch of stl models from thingiverse. I've only gotten 2 models to print so far . One is an adapter for a 40mm gas mask. I opened the stl file in cura then loaded the gcode profile from the cat model. It printed fine. I've tried this same technique with my other models and when I go to print, the printer does nothing. The progress bar on the front of the printer begins moving like it's printing but the printer does nothing. What am I doing wrong? I'm getting very frustrated.
you have to slice it first
AnyGamesEver well duh, I'm using cura. Anyway I figured it out. My files and sd card became corrupted from all the copying and from not ejecting the card properly. After reformatting the card everything works fine now
Seriously...will following your tutorial to the t really help the mp select mini and all its problematic issues and one other thing - this printer is far from cheap after you experience all the issues, AND YOU WILL, retarded upgrades, hairspray, lipstick, mud masks, ky jelly and everything else this perfect printer requires just to get it to print and good luck if it does. Bye😃
How many mm is the bed?
why does my new select mini cant read my 4gb micro sd card? nor 32
The instructions with mine says to use the Cura version on the included SD card. Every time I use it, (Cura), it offers me an updated version. Should I be using the old one or the new one? Thanks, Rocky
the new one as the old one is outdated
does this unit do TPU?
Cuando inserto la tarjeta me dice "no files" he cambiado tarjetas con files dcode y stl pero no los muetra ,alguna recomendacion?
REPLY
Los files son Gcode, no Dcode.
I’m looking forward to buying one of these on amazon but does the v2 come in only the black color or white? Is there a difference?
Yeah the difference is color
Any mini ball screw inquiry?
helped a lot
when i go to extrude, the filament comes out fine, but when I start a print, the filament won't come out, and it just goes in the motion of the program and does nothing
Sounds like a .gcode issue. The printer isn't being told to feed the filament. Have you tried to print a different model ?
@@WhiteRaven___ no it is fixed bow, my problem was it wasn't leveled, so the table was to high, but all is well now, thanks for trying to help
My Printer is always printing in the corner. what should i do? i've tried multiple changes, but nothing works!
Sounds like your slicer settings are messed up (example: the origin '0,0,0' coordinate is wrong and the printer is starting in the wrong place) or you are slicing for a different printer and this one interprets the Gcode wrong
how to connect to wifi?
the firmware on my v2 is nothing like this. It is way more basic and doesn't seem to have wifi.
theres a free firmware update on their website
Plz help. I got one of these printers from you guys and it arived with a non working lcd screen. Noone has gotten back to me nor refunded me. I cant print if i cant see ehat im doing. I cannot afford a new piece and its obsurd it arived in such a state. 1 star until youre client support decides to actually respond
9:01 that's me when I do videos
Please help me: my printer to not recognize the files from the micro SD and it's a new SanDisk 32 g
have you mount the sd card on the printer ?
I keep getting strings under the Cat left paw. Suggestions?
Cats can never be made wrong there always cute
I bought this thing and I wish I had returned it when I had the chance. It never sticks to the plate, I've tried different temperature variations with painters tape, glue, etc. it still won't stick with fist layer :/
Version2 has it's own grip and it sticks very well. Almost too good. So either you have version 1 or you have the extruder nozzle too high off the bed. You can also try building a raft support. Are you using cura or pronterface to slice and print?
@@lliaolsen728 using cura. It's definitely v2 and if it goes any closer, the extruder drags the print foundation.
@@SBinKMedia Then your hot end temp isn't high enough. 200-220 for pla, 220-240 for abs
@@ericperkins3078 I appreciate your feedback, but this is incorrect. I did temperature variations from 190-230 varying by 5. I use another printer with a build plate of 960mm^3 that works great, but it's also not a $160 printer
@@SBinKMedia add a small glass top to the bed and use some clips to hold in place then lightly spray some hairspray on the glass and it WILL stick ;) obviously you also have to alter your z height when you home as to compensate the thickness of the glass ;)
Why doesn't this video show something printing/printed?
Can this printer be used in the uk due to the higher voltage here, do i need an adapter if so what is it i need? thanks
We use the version 1 of the printer in the UK due to this.
it comes with a laptop type power supply, so just get one with a UK plug on the Figure 8 cable (or put a UK plug on it).
My printer has a different software
mine too
@@corychung3198 go here and it has the whole original stock software ;) drive.google.com/drive/folders/0BxyFI3iDaicLUHlNclBUNGZDRXc
First im using my moms account. I want to buy a Maker Select V2. Please make a Maker Select V2 how to please. Thanks.
ummmm thats what this is :/ a vid on the v2 it actually comes up at the beginning lol
Can you print without a Micro SD card
yes. wirelessly or with a cable.
I almost have enough for the printer and filament
hi i wonder if you can help, i havent yet been able to print anything due to the pregheating not working could you pleasae contact me :)
DOES THE PRINTER COME WITH FILEMENT
does it matter? Buy your own, if you dont have money for the filament don't buy the printer
I bought some pla for 20 bucks it comes with a small amount
ah Gilbert, you did fine. ;)
boi, I can't imagine how it'd feel to have that much sound proofing foam and STILL have horrible reverb!
Proper sound treatment should be compressed fiberglass or, better yet, rock wool. The foam is very limited in the frequency ranges it absorbs. (Professional studio engineer here.)
hi can this printer print with flexible filament
No, it cannot. For you to print PETG or any other flexible filament, you would need to have a direct drive printer, meaning that the motor that pushes the filament needs to be mounted right next to the extruder. If you try printing PETG on a printer that does not have direct drive, the filament would bunch up and get clogged in the PTFE guide tube.
Actually it can but it requires a 3D printed modification
@@Edzilla007 you are WRONG!!! yes you can print with flexi filament NIKS DAYA Dont listen to this guy i have three of these and even use one set up for wood filaments only prob it have to keep replacing the nozzel .. ;)
What's the difference between this and the V1?
its black
and it has an all metal extruder
NoLuckJustSkill | KurryKiller™ And there’s a buildtak type surface. There’s also a fan on the back for the control board and as cell said the color and the hotend
Chase Hanson thx for the extra info
My V2 is white
How do u create things to print?
Use software such as Blender to model your own prints, or go to websites such as Thingiverse which have 1000s of pre made models
Sketchup. Design your own stuff, export it as a 3d model (.obj file) then slice in Cura. Voila, you have created.
Where can you buy one
On amazon
GG
A plane requires only three points...
I don't need it... I don't need it 💸💸
this dude chinease bruh🤔
fosake
Thanks for ruining my Christmas.
Recorded on a potato
The sound was terrible.
the horrible product never ever buy
Why does my firmware look nothing like this?
i think its because yours is the newest one just like m,y printer i got couple days ago. do you have a menu which is much more colorful and pretty then their? if yes your just like me i guess