Ford commanded around 11.6:1 AFR in the A9L calibration at WOT. Your car is not running rich. It's dead on the money. The MAF does not know or care what mods you have. It's simply measuring the air passing through it.
My buddy and I both have full HCI done (he has trick flow top end kit stage 1) and we both still have 19# injectors. I’m not saying don’t upgrade to the 24s but both of our 5.0’s run pretty damn good with stock injectors still. Just putting that out there for anyone who wants to upgrade but might not have the money for injectors and MAF.
It’s very simple even though you may or may not have a tune , You’re pumping efficiency is changing your engines theoretical and literal airflow requirements with a different camshaft he will go up higher on your mass airflow flow scale which will impart A little more enriching. Also I’m sure you know this depending on your engine coolant temperature and your air charge temperature that will have an effect on it as well just because you set Base fuel to whatever value, That does not necessarily mean you will reach that literally just a look up table . Pretty sure you knew this already but I hope it helps and I enjoy the moment and as always I enjoy the content
When i upgraded my injectors i kept 19s just went to a ev6 style injector that has a better coil saturation rate and a fogger style head instead of pintle design.
That's some great info 👍 On a side note. I appreciate what you do on your channel. It's helped motivate me to take on the not so fun jobs on the mustang. Currently I have my 01 cobra on Jack stands. I had to replace TOB. Found out my shift fork, and pivot ball where in bad shape too. Anyways I got the trans back in and just have to reinstall driveshaft and exhaust and add fluid. Thanks for inspiring us to take on a bigger not so fun jobs. I saved a lot of $ doing it this way. It's taken a few weekends.... but I just go out to the garage and turn wrenches for a couple hours here and there when I have time. I'm excited to have my car all prepared for next spring. When it comes to the overwhelming stuff you said it best "it's all just nuts and bolts"
Running Gt40 3 bars stage 2 port job Upper and lower intake stage 2 ported 75mm throttle with ported egr and throttle spacer ported to match 1.6 rockers Trickflow stage 2 cam Ported shorted mac headers 3.73 gears Walbro 255lph 36lb injectors Recalibrated maf Should i try 19s back in mine and see what happens
Im getting my 95 gt dyno tuned in Shelbyville KY on October 2nd. I want to make sure i have everything in line for the tuner. Can you elaborate more on some things that should be double checked before making that trip? Also, would you drive the vehicle to the tuner or haul it, to give the tuner the option of having a cold start condition? Thanks Brew2L
Maybe this is why my cars running like crap when I first start it then it goes into closed loop? Cause after it's to temp it smooths out and stays that way. I have a wide ban but idk how to hook it up yet. Lol
My thoughts on the gauges... get it tuned drive it for a bit... take them out... it's not your gunna be like mid pull and shut it down because it went lean.. by then it's to late.. lol it's either gunna stay together or it's not
I’m gonna say the reason it’s still rich is because of the stock HO intake they flow like crap. And even though you got a decent head and cam and headers the engine isn’t flowing much more air than a bone stocker. Because of that restrictive intake manifold. The engine is only gonna flow wjat it’s most restrictive part will allow it to flow. HO intake flows around 150ish CFM . Your heads may flow 250cfm but they can only move as much air as the intake will allow that’s why it’s still rich. Sorry for the rant please don’t mistake my comment for being smart ass that’s not my intention.
I appreciate your comment. It reassured me of my problem limiting airflow in my 95 gt convertible. 210 cc speed master heads, 70mm tb on stock ported upper /lower intakes. E303 Ford Racing cam. 40 series Flows with H pipe. If I get a better flowing set of intakes would it mean I'd definitely need a stall torque converter? Did I mention my car is auto? I used the stock ported intake as sort of a limit to keep from having to install a higher stall torque converter.
I run e85 and a carb and I use one..when you build a over 500hp car you are gonna need one..air fuel is critical .. you don't wanna spend tons of money only to run it lean and crack a piston.. cause I've seen it haopen..
Thank You For Talking About Them Running Lean I Feel Like Mine Does It Some Times And I Start Getting Nervous Do You Have Any Other Videos On The Wide Band I Don't Know Much About It
Great video, I know Neo has a good video on Before dyno trips, but i would enjoy seeing it from another perspective. I got lucky when i took mine to the dyno, I dotted all my "i"s and crossed my "t"s and i didnt have any issues.
Great vid, love the channel. Quick question, i have a fairly stock 90 5spd with 30lbs injectors and a calibrated 75mm maf running at 42psi fuel pressure. Cobra intake, 70mm tb, and full exhaust. I also have a 70mm ford maf and 4hole 19lbs injectors sitting on the shelf. Would it be worthwhile to swap in the 19lbs injectors and maf? Car runs good but somewhat rich.
I installed a wideband ony 95 gt. Which I understand is a little different. But I really had to crank the pressure up to get 13.0-12.8 at wot. And it finally threw a cel for a rich condition. But it sure runs better.
Great video , Bro I have question. What size of valve is safe in a 302 stock block stock pistons avoid the piston hit the valve , n at the same time increpase the HP , 1.90, 1.95 , 2.00 185 ? Thanks
2.05" intake and 1.6" exhaust is what my speed master 210cc heads are on my 95 gt convertible. I have 75mm tb on stock ported upper. Have a BBK power plus 70mm I just took off and I'm thinking about going back to it.
Hello. It you had a nice fox body that was being fitting for a big block but not finished engine is stitting in it with a v6 auto trans. Would you take it out and put a small block back in it? I have been cking out a lot of your videos and I am impressed with what you guys are doing with the small blocks. My last fox I pickup from a guy that raced the car a lot so it had a lot of performance upgrades but they had blown the engine pickup a new short block put a 303 cam in it not sure the heads but he ran out of cash ( got cut off ) so put the stock intake on it just to get it to run. Car also had bbk shortly headers a TKO 5 speed 373 gear. The car would run but like crap. 1st thing I put on it was a cobra intake had a little port work but make the car awesome on the street I was even able to put the ac back in it and the car still ran better then my brothers 427 69 chevy. The only thing the clutch was very hard and I tried a couple different brands but no help. So your thinking on my car. The car does look stock but has full cage fitted very nice has performance suspension parts and 373 rear. I would love big block but would rather have a 5 speed have a TKO on the shelf. Sorry so long of a message. Thanks for your videos guys
@@beyondEOD I posted soon as I saw a/f numbers. After watching the rest of the vid, i was wrong. But it was lean when it should have been rich and vice versa made me think that. The air filter and mods played a funny game.
I just recently bought a one owner 93’ gt. I’m coming from a c6z and I’m curious about what’s everyone using to tune/have tuned in these cars? Do you open source tune/handheld/piggyback/hptuners? Appreciate everyone’s time.
There is no way to tune these ECU without an aftermarket chip! Most people change the ECU to an aftermarket Holley Terminator X or the Mega Squirt2! The factory ecu can handle upto a #30lb injector/#30 mass air swap and still run good which will be fine if your staying NA!!
The a9l computer is tuned with a craig moates QUARTER HORSE. theres two softwares you can use. Binary editor and tuner studio. As far as injector size and mass airflow. You can run over 100mm blow thru meter if you can afford it. And injector size doesnt matter. It comes down to impedance. You dont want tp get the wrong impedance due to current draw or sink limitations. But if you stick with ford motorsport injectors you will be fine. If you change brands just make sure they are the same either low or high impedance. Also finding throttle bodies or intakes larger than 80mm seems to be custom intake territory so no need to have a larger mass air meter than that opening. If im wrong let me know as all my mustangs just collect dust now. And i have taken to the sky. Less cops to give speeding tickets in the clouds...
Hi 11's low 12's really it depends on how safe the guy tuning likes to be. Boost definitely requires a bit richer air fuel mixture. It helps prevent pre-ignition or knock.
@@LeechMotorsports Advanced tuning starts implementing AFRs that are on a different scale when using E-85 mixtures. Boost loves ethanol ethanol doesn't love fuel systems not designed for it though. Really it isn't even kind to those that are designed for it. Either way Ethanol acts like methanol in ways to cool the intake air mixture in turn preventing pre-ignition knock much better than gasoline does.
@@jeremypike9153 sure that’s why most tuners work in lambda, not AFR. Stoich AFR is fuel specific. But we know this car is on pump gas, so that’s the basis for those numbers.
@@LeechMotorsports for sure you're right that is exactly what I was trying to say. Old school methanol injection on a street car really isn't required with the right tune and today's ethanol blends. To do that on an obd 1 system though would be a task essentially you would be tuning a system using old school O2 sensors by watching a separate lambda sensor and correcting the tune every step of the way. Unless you know of a better way to do it? It'd be like tuning an open loop system that ignores its own readings.
It’s weird watching this video. My car did the complete opposite. SBE 302, GT40 3 bars, explorer intake. Professional Products throttle body, 19# injectors, E303 Cam. I had an AEM wideband in it because of suspicion that it was going way lean. Cruising at 14.1-15.1 most of the time, but you laid into it 1st-2nd-3rd gears and it was showing 17.8 to - - - (so lean it can’t read). I wonder what caused my problems.
@@hotrodray6802 I know fuel pressure was fine, volume should have been good with a Walboro 155lph pump. It was probably the tune because it was a stock A9L
BREW2Ls intake was still stock so that was choking everything down enough that the 19s wouldn’t have a problem keeping up. In your case you had the heads and cam and an intake. It’s possible at that point despite the entry level combo that you were running lean as a result. Old or dirty injectors can also struggle to maintain the flow rates they did when new/clean…
@@nexgencarguyscraig331 you need the 255lph pump cleaning your injectors maybe I’m in the process of getting new injectors mine are I believe still factory and it might have some grit in a few injectors seems like mine leans out on the big end I have a basic lean/ideal/rich wide band seems to go on the lower side of ideal in the upper rpm once I get out there
"Now I'm not gonna slam any gears..." And then proceeds to slam the hell out of those gears 🤣
5.0 tussin has a video one of his cars with Explorer #19 4 nozzle injectors
Dynoed his car at almost 320 horse at the wheels with no tunning
grab some injectors from a 03 expo witch are 19s but are a ev14 style for better flow and spray pattern
Ford commanded around 11.6:1 AFR in the A9L calibration at WOT. Your car is not running rich. It's dead on the money. The MAF does not know or care what mods you have. It's simply measuring the air passing through it.
Isnt WOT open loop on A9L ?
@@hotrodray6802 yes sir
Ford left room in the factory tune on purpose because they knew the cars would be tinkered with.
I think that aspect of these cars goes unsaid too often. That's what truly set them up to be so successful.
Well said! As tuners its hard to judge what combo you have going and if your stuff is working. Good job! 19s will take you well into 300's !
How high would you say you could go on 24s?
21% more fuel = ....360
I just put the those yellow 19# on my all original 1986 Fox conv. They work awsome.
Working man’s hot setup. Thank you. 👍
If your not pulling a DATA LOG on that pull and stock computer I would not TRUST it , I learned from experience trust me
Long live the b cam and 19lbs.....
My buddy and I both have full HCI done (he has trick flow top end kit stage 1) and we both still have 19# injectors. I’m not saying don’t upgrade to the 24s but both of our 5.0’s run pretty damn good with stock injectors still. Just putting that out there for anyone who wants to upgrade but might not have the money for injectors and MAF.
Stock ECU and all?
@@TheJMan1K yessir. I still have my car today and she stills runs great
It’s very simple even though you may or may not have a tune , You’re pumping efficiency is changing your engines theoretical and literal airflow requirements with a different camshaft he will go up higher on your mass airflow flow scale which will impart A little more enriching. Also I’m sure you know this depending on your engine coolant temperature and your air charge temperature that will have an effect on it as well just because you set Base fuel to whatever value, That does not necessarily mean you will reach that literally just a look up table . Pretty sure you knew this already but I hope it helps and I enjoy the moment and as always I enjoy the content
When i upgraded my injectors i kept 19s just went to a ev6 style injector that has a better coil saturation rate and a fogger style head instead of pintle design.
did upgrade to 19 ev6 once and could feel the difference
JME
Love this channel u know why ? The knowledge , Foxbodys and Family . What more can u ask for
🔔 Whats the fuel pressure at WOT?
38, 43 ? Guessing not allowed.
How big is the fuel pump?🤔
Mine starts instantly. Like 1/2 second.🤔🤔
When the emergency brake light is on it adds extra fuel for extra power lol….. hope y’all have a great thanksgiving be safe
That's some great info 👍
On a side note. I appreciate what you do on your channel. It's helped motivate me to take on the not so fun jobs on the mustang.
Currently I have my 01 cobra on Jack stands. I had to replace TOB. Found out my shift fork, and pivot ball where in bad shape too. Anyways I got the trans back in and just have to reinstall driveshaft and exhaust and add fluid. Thanks for inspiring us to take on a bigger not so fun jobs. I saved a lot of $ doing it this way. It's taken a few weekends.... but I just go out to the garage and turn wrenches for a couple hours here and there when I have time. I'm excited to have my car all prepared for next spring. When it comes to the overwhelming stuff you said it best "it's all just nuts and bolts"
I wish I would've put a wideband on my car years ago! It would've saved me a ton headaches
That's great BREW2L the RetroFox sounds like she is ripping good, the gears are making a big difference, glad
you figured what was holding her back.
Running
Gt40 3 bars stage 2 port job
Upper and lower intake stage 2 ported
75mm throttle with ported egr and throttle spacer ported to match
1.6 rockers
Trickflow stage 2 cam
Ported shorted mac headers
3.73 gears
Walbro 255lph
36lb injectors
Recalibrated maf
Should i try 19s back in mine and see what happens
If I was Andrew, and I was preparing to go get the Arctic Fox tuned... I’d replace the headlights.
Im getting my 95 gt dyno tuned in Shelbyville KY on October 2nd. I want to make sure i have everything in line for the tuner. Can you elaborate more on some things that should be double checked before making that trip? Also, would you drive the vehicle to the tuner or haul it, to give the tuner the option of having a cold start condition? Thanks Brew2L
Very valuable information! Thank you for making these videos.
Well done sir! Retro fox is rolling!
Thanks for the context , I look forward to them always.
For other folks, maybe it’s common knowledge but, this was huge info for me. Thanks! Super test episode in my opinion!
You need to call it the REDDtro FOXX! Like the comedian. Plus it’s red.
Maybe this is why my cars running like crap when I first start it then it goes into closed loop? Cause after it's to temp it smooths out and stays that way. I have a wide ban but idk how to hook it up yet. Lol
ECT and ACT. Lol you knew I was going to recommend that
Your absolutely right!
Ever dealt with an X3Z (cobra) ecu? I just recently picked up a mass air harness and eco for my 88 and this is the ecu it came with.
Sure. It won’t run well it all with stock 19 lb injectors and mass air meter without custom tuning,
Think that unit is programmed for #24's!!
Thanks for the video they are always interesting..
Another great video brother I may have an extra pro 50 shifter you can have
My thoughts on the gauges... get it tuned drive it for a bit... take them out... it's not your gunna be like mid pull and shut it down because it went lean.. by then it's to late.. lol it's either gunna stay together or it's not
I’m gonna say the reason it’s still rich is because of the stock HO intake they flow like crap. And even though you got a decent head and cam and headers the engine isn’t flowing much more air than a bone stocker. Because of that restrictive intake manifold. The engine is only gonna flow wjat it’s most restrictive part will allow it to flow. HO intake flows around 150ish CFM . Your heads may flow 250cfm but they can only move as much air as the intake will allow that’s why it’s still rich. Sorry for the rant please don’t mistake my comment for being smart ass that’s not my intention.
I appreciate your comment. It reassured me of my problem limiting airflow in my 95 gt convertible. 210 cc speed master heads, 70mm tb on stock ported upper /lower intakes. E303 Ford Racing cam. 40 series Flows with H pipe. If I get a better flowing set of intakes would it mean I'd definitely need a stall torque converter? Did I mention my car is auto? I used the stock ported intake as sort of a limit to keep from having to install a higher stall torque converter.
I run e85 and a carb and I use one..when you build a over 500hp car you are gonna need one..air fuel is critical .. you don't wanna spend tons of money only to run it lean and crack a piston.. cause I've seen it haopen..
Thank You For Talking About Them Running Lean I Feel Like Mine Does It Some Times And I Start Getting Nervous Do You Have Any Other Videos On The Wide Band I Don't Know Much About It
What is the duty cycle of the 19s you’re running at WOT? Those 19s won’t live long if they’re above 85-90%.
Great video, I know Neo has a good video on Before dyno trips, but i would enjoy seeing it from another perspective. I got lucky when i took mine to the dyno, I dotted all my "i"s and crossed my "t"s and i didnt have any issues.
I see a Chevy in the background!!!!!😎
Microsquit is telling me that I need to run impedance feulinjector.
Love the Retro Fox. Favorite car bar none!
Some more certified test data gathered at the proving grounds.
Can you in one of your videos show where you placed your wideband 02 sensor in the pipe?
Great vid, love the channel. Quick question, i have a fairly stock 90 5spd with 30lbs injectors and a calibrated 75mm maf running at 42psi fuel pressure. Cobra intake, 70mm tb, and full exhaust. I also have a 70mm ford maf and 4hole 19lbs injectors sitting on the shelf. Would it be worthwhile to swap in the 19lbs injectors and maf? Car runs good but somewhat rich.
If it runs good like it is I wouldn’t worry about it much. But it definitely wouldn’t hurt to go back to the 19s
Great video man
Great info bro. Do u have long tube headers as well. Beautiful ride...👍
You want low 11 at full throttle for NA cars.
I installed a wideband ony 95 gt. Which I understand is a little different. But I really had to crank the pressure up to get 13.0-12.8 at wot. And it finally threw a cel for a rich condition. But it sure runs better.
Great video , Bro I have question. What size of valve is safe in a 302 stock block stock pistons avoid the piston hit the valve , n at the same time increpase the HP , 1.90, 1.95 , 2.00 185 ? Thanks
2.05" intake and 1.6" exhaust is what my speed master 210cc heads are on my 95 gt convertible. I have 75mm tb on stock ported upper. Have a BBK power plus 70mm I just took off and I'm thinking about going back to it.
Hello. It you had a nice fox body that was being fitting for a big block but not finished engine is stitting in it with a v6 auto trans. Would you take it out and put a small block back in it? I have been cking out a lot of your videos and I am impressed with what you guys are doing with the small blocks. My last fox I pickup from a guy that raced the car a lot so it had a lot of performance upgrades but they had blown the engine pickup a new short block put a 303 cam in it not sure the heads but he ran out of cash ( got cut off ) so put the stock intake on it just to get it to run. Car also had bbk shortly headers a TKO 5 speed 373 gear. The car would run but like crap. 1st thing I put on it was a cobra intake had a little port work but make the car awesome on the street I was even able to put the ac back in it and the car still ran better then my brothers 427 69 chevy. The only thing the clutch was very hard and I tried a couple different brands but no help. So your thinking on my car. The car does look stock but has full cage fitted very nice has performance suspension parts and 373 rear. I would love big block but would rather have a 5 speed have a TKO on the shelf. Sorry so long of a message. Thanks for your videos guys
Stock intake is choking it down.
You buried that tach in first guess you wanted to get the most out her 😂😂
Great video. You seemed a little gun shy about banging gears in this video after breaking that trans in your dads fox. Lol I know how it feels lol.
Just curious, what fuel pump is in that car?
Great Video Man!!
I think I heard the stock fuel rail will hold up to like 700 hp I could be wrong
So can you adjust fuel pressure to lean it out a little at WOT??
So right off the bat, isnt it supposed to run rich, open loop? Lean open loop is a problem. Its completely without emissions.
I think the a/f gauge is wired backwards, maybe not, but something needs to be checked before going boost, imo.
@@feellnfroggy wired backwards? How so?
@@beyondEOD I posted soon as I saw a/f numbers. After watching the rest of the vid, i was wrong. But it was lean when it should have been rich and vice versa made me think that. The air filter and mods played a funny game.
What shifter are you going with? Any pointers on whats good? Im thinking about the steeda triax
Pro5.0 for 27 years 👍👍👍
I have a tri-ax shifter and i will never use anything else again since installing
I have a pro 5.0 it’s a great shifter but I swear by a steeds tri ax very tight and it’s impossible to miss 3rd. I’d say tri ax
I just recently bought a one owner 93’ gt. I’m coming from a c6z and I’m curious about what’s everyone using to tune/have tuned in these cars? Do you open source tune/handheld/piggyback/hptuners? Appreciate everyone’s time.
There is no way to tune these ECU without an aftermarket chip! Most people change the ECU to an aftermarket Holley Terminator X or the Mega Squirt2! The factory ecu can handle upto a #30lb injector/#30 mass air swap and still run good which will be fine if your staying NA!!
@@mikesherrill8671 exactly what I needed to know. I really appreciate it 👍🏻
The a9l computer is tuned with a craig moates QUARTER HORSE. theres two softwares you can use. Binary editor and tuner studio. As far as injector size and mass airflow. You can run over 100mm blow thru meter if you can afford it. And injector size doesnt matter. It comes down to impedance. You dont want tp get the wrong impedance due to current draw or sink limitations. But if you stick with ford motorsport injectors you will be fine. If you change brands just make sure they are the same either low or high impedance. Also finding throttle bodies or intakes larger than 80mm seems to be custom intake territory so no need to have a larger mass air meter than that opening. If im wrong let me know as all my mustangs just collect dust now. And i have taken to the sky. Less cops to give speeding tickets in the clouds...
I spy with my little eye a whale tail 🤣
Sorry, what unit are you talking about ? Link??? Y Unit???
Are you running the stock Ford MAF meter with the 19s? 58mm or something bigger?
I believe he is as he says the 19's are good for someone that doesn't want to spend money on a MAF and injectors.
God I miss my ‘93 5.0!
Hey what do you think would cause my car to misfire after it hits rev limiter
I'm running 60lb injectors on my 331 with a p1sc procharger at 8lbs of boost. What should my AFR be at WOT?
Hi 11's low 12's really it depends on how safe the guy tuning likes to be. Boost definitely requires a bit richer air fuel mixture. It helps prevent pre-ignition or knock.
I’d start at mid 11 target until I know actual afr is what I’m commanding, then probably lean it out to high 11s.
@@LeechMotorsports Advanced tuning starts implementing AFRs that are on a different scale when using E-85 mixtures. Boost loves ethanol ethanol doesn't love fuel systems not designed for it though. Really it isn't even kind to those that are designed for it. Either way Ethanol acts like methanol in ways to cool the intake air mixture in turn preventing pre-ignition knock much better than gasoline does.
@@jeremypike9153 sure that’s why most tuners work in lambda, not AFR. Stoich AFR is fuel specific. But we know this car is on pump gas, so that’s the basis for those numbers.
@@LeechMotorsports for sure you're right that is exactly what I was trying to say. Old school methanol injection on a street car really isn't required with the right tune and today's ethanol blends. To do that on an obd 1 system though would be a task essentially you would be tuning a system using old school O2 sensors by watching a separate lambda sensor and correcting the tune every step of the way. Unless you know of a better way to do it? It'd be like tuning an open loop system that ignores its own readings.
It’s weird watching this video. My car did the complete opposite. SBE 302, GT40 3 bars, explorer intake. Professional Products throttle body, 19# injectors, E303 Cam. I had an AEM wideband in it because of suspicion that it was going way lean. Cruising at 14.1-15.1 most of the time, but you laid into it 1st-2nd-3rd gears and it was showing 17.8 to - - - (so lean it can’t read). I wonder what caused my problems.
fuel pressue
fuel volume
tune
@@hotrodray6802 I know fuel pressure was fine, volume should have been good with a Walboro 155lph pump. It was probably the tune because it was a stock A9L
BREW2Ls intake was still stock so that was choking everything down enough that the 19s wouldn’t have a problem keeping up.
In your case you had the heads and cam and an intake. It’s possible at that point despite the entry level combo that you were running lean as a result. Old or dirty injectors can also struggle to maintain the flow rates they did when new/clean…
@@skipgumphrey9579 that makes sense. I know the injectors weren’t factory ford. They were replacements from jegs
@@nexgencarguyscraig331 you need the 255lph pump cleaning your injectors maybe I’m in the process of getting new injectors mine are I believe still factory and it might have some grit in a few injectors seems like mine leans out on the big end I have a basic lean/ideal/rich wide band seems to go on the lower side of ideal in the upper rpm once I get out there
Clogged air filter=rich condition.
Could the afr at wot be because of the load difference from the gear swap?
it has mass air
❤
I love this broken Ford Mustang Channel
👍🇨🇦