It is SO refreshing to listen to someone who really understands Systems and Process. Great videos. You deliver the how AND the why. Excellent Job. Thanks.
good info, wish more mechanics would test the system thoroughly before throwing parts at a problem .the way we inexperienced wannabe mechanics do. sucks to pay big bucks and have the codes keep popping back up!
Hi there. Mahalo for this cool tutorial! I hope you're checking comments and will answer back. I have a '96 Explorer. I tested the DPFE for voltage. First I used my multimeter and tested the connector. Disconnecting from the DPFE, I had about 5V (4.9) from the signal wire (middle) and I got that reading from either side of the signal wire when touching them with the other multimeter test lead when the ignition was energized. I then tested for resistance on the DPFE terminals from the ground (where the blk/w wire connects to) and the signal wire and got resistance. No reading, as expected from the middle and power lead on the other side. I plugged the power connector back onto the DPFE, placed in some wire pins on the two out wires and alligator clipped that to the multimeter. I disconnected the vacuum hose on the DPFE closest to the front of the vehicle and connected my vacuum pump to the DPFE. I turned on the ignition and got a reading of almost 5v again. But you say it should be about .5 to 1v. I turned on the engine and there was about 4v reading. When I applied vacuum, the voltage went down to around .8 to 1.2v. The voltage should have gone up to around 5v as you said, yes? So, can I assume that if the DPFE fails just one of the electrical test, it has failed? I also did the test you showed here and the engine did just as in the video. I had the multi meter connected to the two outer leads reading 4v, still. Placing my finger on the bleed hole on the EGR solenoid, the engine was almost stalling, just like your video. I couldn't see the RPM's when I opened the throttle valve from the engine bay to increase the RPM's but, the voltage dropped down to .3v with my finger still on the bleed hole of the EGR solenoid. So I believe I have been able to verify that the DPFE has indeed gone bad. Yes? Funny thing, all was fine until I tried to bypass the EGR system about 2 weeks ago! I disconnected and plugged the vacuum hoses and unplugged the connector to the DPFE and vacuum solenoid to see what would happen. Within about 3 miles driving, the check engine light came on. So I reconnected everything and cleared the code. It came back on after about 30 miles of driving. I thought it was a glitch and cleared it again. I was able to drive about 290 miles before the check engine light came on again! I cleared it again but this time by touching the positive an negative battery cables together. Since the engine has been idling smooth and my gas mileage has been good, I thought it was just a PCM glitch. But then the check engine light came on again after about 100 miles of driving. So that's when I decided it was time to start diagnosis. I could tell the EGR valve had vacuum and all the lines were fine and tested them with the vacuum pump. I didn't think I had any carbon deposits clogging anything as of yet. I'm glad that I could start the electrical test at the DPFE. So, here in Washington, we no longer have emission testing so I'd love to do an EGR delete. However, I realize that I'll need to take the car to a tuner to reprogram the PCM. Do you have a video on how to do that? I miss the old days when you could just delete the EGR and cat without any computer interference and all the sensors. A much simpler and easier time. Mahalo again for your videos and replies.
Great tutorial on both your DPFE diagnostic videos. After the check engine light came on, I did get a P1405 code on my 96 Explorer saying the upper hose was off. I did find it that it had come loose. Placing it back on, warming up the engine, the check engine light did not go off. Upon testing, almost seemed to spec. I did the EGR vacuum regulator test with my finger on the air intake and the engine would almost die. Engine off, the signal wire was at 1.0v. Ground at 0.0v and reference wire at 5.0v. Unplugging the connector, the signal wire was at 5.0v. But still the check engine light stayed on. With engine on, I plugged the EGR vacuum regulator again and voltage would go up but only to 3.6v and not the 4.0v or close to, as you described while the engine sputtered. I couldn't tell what my RPM's were since I didn't have an assistant but throttling up at the throttle body, I could only get the mulitmeter to read 4.6v and not 5.0v. Check engine light still on. I'm guessing that even with the increase in voltages, it wasn't enough so I'll order a new DPFE and I expect it to do make the check engine light go off. The other issue, at the same time is the IACV howl. I think that should be fixed now. Electrical specs upon testing were fine as well. I cleaned it and for awhile there it worked fine. This is with cool weather, ie mid 60's. But finally got it to howl again so the new IACV is on. Big mahalo nui loa for your video.
These numbers sound good. Before replacing that DPFE sensor. 1. We need to confirm the ECM control of your EVR solenoid and that the solenoid functions electrically. 2. We also want to make sure your catalytic converter is not plugged. I've seen this cause the dpfe hoses to blow off. You can check exhaust back pressure right at the dpfe hose (the lower one on the egr tube)
@@ScannerDanner Mahalo for the reply! Solved! I forgot to unhook the battery and de-energize the system. Once I replaced the IACV, all went back to normal and check engine light went off/stayed off. The only code being thrown out is the P1000 so I'll need to drive a bit and re-train the computer. I did have a P0402 _ to much EGR gas temporarily and then that went away. I had tested all electrical connections including the EVR. All works. You'd like my engine bay of my '96 Explorer as it's super duper clean so it's nice to work in. Now I'm back working on my '87 VW Scirocco, 16V.
This video really helped me out with my 1997 Ford Escort! I already replaced the EGR Valve and cleaned the port that gets clogged on the head, so I knew it had to be a sensor or something. Thanks again Scanner Danner!
So I just did the vac test no change few weeks back I did a complete pull-down of egr egr tube and was clean so my guess was carbon in the egr port so today I poked it out with a shop vac drawing out clumps redid vac test and motor shutters now thanks hope it keeps the check light out good knowing
Nice simple test prcedure, Paul. I find many times that the hose fittings on the DPFE sensor corrode and block the holes and can't sense back pressure any longer. I guess that's why they are made out of plastic now.
We did a vacuum test on the EGR. If the idle didn't change then there was carbon blocking the passage. If the idle got rough then we changed the DPFE sensor. Worked every time.
I now find myself with a possible DPFE sensor problem. The car pings even under light throttle or at cruise speeds. Just went on the ranger station website and it stated something about how just when a DPFE is about to go, that sometimes it wont set a P code. I'm about ready to swap the part out I guess. The motor has no knock sensor that I can find anywhere on the net about. The spark ping just came out nowhere one day.
LOL!!!! Funny this should get put up today cause I had one in the shop today with this exact code and the old school metal DPFE sensor just like this one. Only difference was mine was a 5.0 that had it bolted to the back of the motor which made it a royal pain to swap out.
Hello, I'm having PO401 on my 2001 F150 5.4L. Before watching your videos and using a guide I replaced the DPFE sensor with a brand new one from motorcraft. The code will come back as soon I drive. The EGR valve is working properly and has no leaks. The only test that is not normal is the DPFE flow signal test. Using my voltmeter( DPFE plug still attached to DPFE) I connect the red lead to the top wire of the DPFE plug. The voltage at idle is 1.02v when i apply vacuum the engine starts to idle real rough and the highest voltage I read is 1.27v which is not normal it should be 3v-5v. With the engine off key on if I unplug the DPFE wring plug and i use the voltmeter I have 5v on the top wire, the middle wire is ground( confirmed by connecting one lead to 12v at battery) and the bottom wire I get 5v(ref). To me it does sound I have a wiring issue with the top wire or maybe a PCM issue. Do you agree? Any suggestions on how to test to see if I have a bad or fault connection on that wire? I don't have a wring schematic to trace the colors. Thank you.
that dpfe on my car has the hoses off, lost em.. car still runs , now I have idle issues to a stall at times. could this be why ? or is it a pcv valve or hose collapse ? just got a hose and valve please help
Before you replace it. With it plugged in, check your sensor ground circuit and make sure it doesn't read 5v too. You should see 5, 5, and 0 on the three wires with the key on engine off, plugged in and backprobing the connector with a pin. Do not measure these unplugged as the ground test I want you to do will be invalid
Hi Mr danner the dpfe hoses that goes down to the exhaust pipe, keep popping out of the pipe?, and the car start run rough, I connect it back ,and do it again, can you please tell me what's wrong? Thank you , cheers from ontario ca.
I'm glad that you took the time to post this. I have been working with a 97 Ford F250 with the 460 in it and we are having to prob the DPFE with a Voltmeter. Would a scanner like yours be able to show the Voltage on this type of vehicle? Or only newer models. Also what scanner do you own, It looks almost like a SnapOn but I can't tell for sure. Thank you again.
Yes and it is a Snap on. Check out the description of this video. I posted other Ford EGR Flow problem case studies I've done. It will help. In at least one of them I show how to test the DPFE with a voltmeter
If this truck for renter 3.0 engine has a DPFE sensor bad and only dumping two volts that are for 5 it means that when is real freezing cold weather outside will not crank would not start
Ford Ranger 96: What does it mean if the DPFE top wire or signal wire (brown green) remains about 5V with key on engine running? Ref wire also 5 v. Thanks for any help
@@ScannerDanner Thanks for such a fast reply! My ground was about 9.65 Volts. I ran my battery down recently. By the way, I got that 5V reading on the signal wire with the harness disconnected and key on. After I wrote to you, reattached the wire harness to the DPFE, but this time slid the pointed end of my multimeter probe in the rear access of the harness, to contact that signal wire and got 0.6V, engine idling.
@@Madasin_Paine Did you fix this? So sorry, hard to keep up. Your ground pin was reading 9.65 volts on the DPFE sensor? What did the other two wires show you PLUGGED IN and backprobing?
I have a 2006 Ford Explorer i shooting two code 403 443 i replace both parts n still have the check engine light with the same codes can you help me out thank you
hello sir .. may dpfe sensor giving me a 0.61 V while the engine is idle . when i do the same method in the video the dpfe sensor volt was 0.32 V .. and the idle is getting rough until die .. can you give me any advice about that ? thank you
1 Question .. can i get a 401 code cause my dpfe hoses are not on the egr valve ect ? yes right ? my dpfe blew up basically as my cat is clogged I assume and you told me before I think.. with it like that the car still ran fine, now has a rough idle and stalls at times so made me think it is something new like the egr valve itself, could this be or blame it on the missing/blown up/melted dpfe sensor ?? So bad it melted some of the rubber on my intake tube when it blew up , plastic tubes that the hoses go to blew and all melted , haha crazy shit.. Anyway should I clean my egr OR blame it on the dpfe not being there, well it's plugged in still but no hoses and melted away , just about.
have I have a 2003 Mercury Sable 3.0 and it seems like whenever it's cold EGR is making a noise I'm hearing like exhaust gas back there and then after it warms up I'm getting a pulsing back to the air cleaner I was wondering if I'm suspecting EGR but not sure. when vacuum is applied to the EGR it does get the idle gets very rough when you back off it so it seems everything's fine again and but there doesn't seem to be very much vacuum at the where the vacuum goes into the top of the EGR what is it supposed to be.
+Scott Kelleher most likely it is a bad sensor. Check your ground before replacing it. It should read less than 100mv on your voltmeter, with the voltmeter com lead connected to battery negative. (you will be performing a ground to ground voltage drop test)-sensor plugged in, backprobing, with the key on
I have a 03 lincoln navigator, and the dpfe voltage stays at .93 when not running and at idle. when pressing gas it goes to .95 but never over 1 volt. when egr engages with your finger test idles drop, engine rums rough, and volts drop to. 03 at the lowest. so I'm confused if sensor is bad or not. The unplug test also leaves voltage at .93. thanks
so I'm an idiot. I got so excited with my new toys that I didn't realize I u plugged the egr solenoid and not the dpfe sensor. after unplugging the right part, voltage went from .93 to 5. dpfe needs replacing. Thanks for your video
Hi, thank you for share this info. Will you please to tell me how can I perform same analisis as you did but for a EGR module in a 2006 ford freestar please? Thks. regards!!!
@@ScannerDanner yes they allí together, there Is a 6 pin conector in there... The test on this one is the same you show in your videos For every separaste parte?
@@angellizarraga4170 6 pin 🤔 3 of the wires would be the DPFE sensor (5v ref, signal and ground) 2 of the wires would be the solenoid (power and ground with one of those two being switched by the PCM) not sure what the 6th wire would be without a diagram
@@angellizarraga4170 the 6th wire is a map sensor signal. Pin 1 BRN/PNK is the EVR (-) and pin 4 RED is EVR (+) The EVR (egr valve regulator/solenoid) is ground side switched, so the EVR (-) I the circuit that gets switched by the engine computer
1990 f250 5.0, what if when I put my finger over that bleeder the engine doesn't get rough, and what if it does? Does it mean its good if the engine starts to run rough?????
Did I hear you correctly when you said that when the connector is pulled loose from the DPFE sensor the signal voltage should rise to 5 volts? Great video by the way....
+ScannerDanner Premium - Thanks for the quick reply, I am getting 5 volts on the signal wire if the connector is plugged in or not and it never changes regardless of pressure. I am thinking it is time to try a new DPFE. I appreciate your comments, I was thinking bad PCM!!!!
+Robin Alexander Not at all my friend. This is definitely a design feature. Just make sure you have a good sensor ground before replacing the DPFE. With the key on and connector plugged in, backprobe the ground wire and make sure it is not also reading 5v. This would indicate an open ground and could cause your issue. A good ground will read under 100mv
I'm getting the same p0401 code in my 3.0 2001 Ranger. Previously had p1400 which was low voltage to dpfe sensor. Replaced the sensor and then got code p0401. I have replaced the egr solenoid and the egr valve and I am still getting p0401. Just went out and covered the bleed hole on the solenoid and there was no change to engine idle. Was thinking maybe a vacuum leak? Anyone have any idea what this could be?
You most likely have plugged egr passages. I'm pretty sure they run right behind the throttle body on the 3.0L? It's been a long time. But I'm certain I have at least one or two videos with an insufficient EGR flow where I'm showing cleaning those passages. But if your set up is like I think, you need to remove the throttle body
I'm using a Snap-on Verus (professional scan tool and not cheap) but there are others that will provide you with this type of information for much less than the Verus.
Ok, I very recently cleaned all of my egr and throttle body holes VERY thuroughly multiple times and just did this test. When I plugged the solenoide hole the idle did not change, what do you think? Also, I do have a BOSCH scan tool but it doesnt show dpfe voltage.
So your EGR and passages are clean. Let's focus on the EVR solenoid next. You should have a vacuum supply on one hose (red) and then the integrity of the other hose needs to be checked (green). This one goes from EVR to EGR.
@@ScannerDanner actually, I just pulled off the hose thats suppose to apply vacuum to the solenoide and there doesnt seem to be any vauum in it, is it suppose to always have some pull? Or is it periodicallt suppose to have vacuum??
hello I was doing the test on mine but on my evr there's a very very little flow, I put my finger on the bleed and there's no change in idle, and no vacuum at all on the bleed hole
my throttle body and manifold is one piece, but I inserted a wire to brake the carbon and flushed with carb cleaner and it came a lot,but still the vacuum is not that strong like yours
Paul can you tell me with an electric throttle, should the throttle plate open and shut when you put you foot on an off the throttle, if you take the air hose off and just look at it...with ignition on, or does it have to be running, and i assume some other sensors might effect it...Fred in England..
Hi danner,,,, I have a 07 ranger 4.0 that had a new used engine installed , got it back and immediately got stuck rich 02 sesnors upstream banks 1 and 2 .... the mechanic cant figure it out either . that's with 4 new bosch 02s he has tried which I know is the symptom bot the cause ,,,,,,, but today I pulled the hose of the egr and electrical connection of the dpfe sensor with no effects while truck was running and at operating temperature , THE TRUCK ONLY THOWD OF THE 196 AND 198 CODES I BELEIEVE and nothing else , I wish I had live stream data , but money and knowledge are limited ,,,,,,,, I would think though that those things unhooked would have to have some effect but maybe not at ,,, at idle ,,,,,,,,,,, the truck has no power and sputters when giving gas .
I don't believe neither are flex fuel ,,,,,, does the egr vacuum control have control over the other 2 sensors and then is that controlled by the computer . to achieve fuel trim
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It is SO refreshing to listen to someone who really understands Systems and Process. Great videos. You deliver the how AND the why. Excellent Job. Thanks.
good info, wish more mechanics would test the system thoroughly before throwing parts at a problem .the way we inexperienced wannabe mechanics do. sucks to pay big bucks and have the codes keep popping back up!
Hi there. Mahalo for this cool tutorial! I hope you're checking comments and will answer back. I have a '96 Explorer. I tested the DPFE for voltage. First I used my multimeter and tested the connector. Disconnecting from the DPFE, I had about 5V (4.9) from the signal wire (middle) and I got that reading from either side of the signal wire when touching them with the other multimeter test lead when the ignition was energized. I then tested for resistance on the DPFE terminals from the ground (where the blk/w wire connects to) and the signal wire and got resistance. No reading, as expected from the middle and power lead on the other side.
I plugged the power connector back onto the DPFE, placed in some wire pins on the two out wires and alligator clipped that to the multimeter. I disconnected the vacuum hose on the DPFE closest to the front of the vehicle and connected my vacuum pump to the DPFE. I turned on the ignition and got a reading of almost 5v again. But you say it should be about .5 to 1v. I turned on the engine and there was about 4v reading. When I applied vacuum, the voltage went down to around .8 to 1.2v. The voltage should have gone up to around 5v as you said, yes?
So, can I assume that if the DPFE fails just one of the electrical test, it has failed?
I also did the test you showed here and the engine did just as in the video. I had the multi meter connected to the two outer leads reading 4v, still. Placing my finger on the bleed hole on the EGR solenoid, the engine was almost stalling, just like your video. I couldn't see the RPM's when I opened the throttle valve from the engine bay to increase the RPM's but, the voltage dropped down to .3v with my finger still on the bleed hole of the EGR solenoid.
So I believe I have been able to verify that the DPFE has indeed gone bad. Yes?
Funny thing, all was fine until I tried to bypass the EGR system about 2 weeks ago! I disconnected and plugged the vacuum hoses and unplugged the connector to the DPFE and vacuum solenoid to see what would happen. Within about 3 miles driving, the check engine light came on. So I reconnected everything and cleared the code. It came back on after about 30 miles of driving. I thought it was a glitch and cleared it again. I was able to drive about 290 miles before the check engine light came on again! I cleared it again but this time by touching the positive an negative battery cables together. Since the engine has been idling smooth and my gas mileage has been good, I thought it was just a PCM glitch. But then the check engine light came on again after about 100 miles of driving. So that's when I decided it was time to start diagnosis.
I could tell the EGR valve had vacuum and all the lines were fine and tested them with the vacuum pump. I didn't think I had any carbon deposits clogging anything as of yet. I'm glad that I could start the electrical test at the DPFE. So, here in Washington, we no longer have emission testing so I'd love to do an EGR delete. However, I realize that I'll need to take the car to a tuner to reprogram the PCM.
Do you have a video on how to do that?
I miss the old days when you could just delete the EGR and cat without any computer interference and all the sensors. A much simpler and easier time.
Mahalo again for your videos and replies.
You're awesome. You're the first person on yt to teach me how to diagnose the Ford EGR system. I definitely have a faulty DPFE. Thanks!
This whole system sucks but I’m trying to get a check engine light cleared from my 99 f150 super duty.
Great tutorial on both your DPFE diagnostic videos. After the check engine light came on, I did get a P1405 code on my 96 Explorer saying the upper hose was off. I did find it that it had come loose. Placing it back on, warming up the engine, the check engine light did not go off. Upon testing, almost seemed to spec. I did the EGR vacuum regulator test with my finger on the air intake and the engine would almost die. Engine off, the signal wire was at 1.0v. Ground at 0.0v and reference wire at 5.0v. Unplugging the connector, the signal wire was at 5.0v. But still the check engine light stayed on.
With engine on, I plugged the EGR vacuum regulator again and voltage would go up but only to 3.6v and not the 4.0v or close to, as you described while the engine sputtered. I couldn't tell what my RPM's were since I didn't have an assistant but throttling up at the throttle body, I could only get the mulitmeter to read 4.6v and not 5.0v. Check engine light still on. I'm guessing that even with the increase in voltages, it wasn't enough so I'll order a new DPFE and I expect it to do make the check engine light go off.
The other issue, at the same time is the IACV howl. I think that should be fixed now. Electrical specs upon testing were fine as well. I cleaned it and for awhile there it worked fine. This is with cool weather, ie mid 60's. But finally got it to howl again so the new IACV is on.
Big mahalo nui loa for your video.
These numbers sound good. Before replacing that DPFE sensor.
1. We need to confirm the ECM control of your EVR solenoid and that the solenoid functions electrically.
2. We also want to make sure your catalytic converter is not plugged. I've seen this cause the dpfe hoses to blow off. You can check exhaust back pressure right at the dpfe hose (the lower one on the egr tube)
@@ScannerDanner Mahalo for the reply! Solved! I forgot to unhook the battery and de-energize the system. Once I replaced the IACV, all went back to normal and check engine light went off/stayed off. The only code being thrown out is the P1000 so I'll need to drive a bit and re-train the computer. I did have a P0402 _ to much EGR gas temporarily and then that went away. I had tested all electrical connections including the EVR. All works. You'd like my engine bay of my '96 Explorer as it's super duper clean so it's nice to work in. Now I'm back working on my '87 VW Scirocco, 16V.
This video really helped me out with my 1997 Ford Escort! I already replaced the EGR Valve and cleaned the port that gets clogged on the head, so I knew it had to be a sensor or something. Thanks again Scanner Danner!
Thank you Mr danner, for your quick responds,
So I just did the vac test no change few weeks back I did a complete pull-down of egr egr tube and was clean so my guess was carbon in the egr port so today I poked it out with a shop vac drawing out clumps redid vac test and motor shutters now thanks hope it keeps the check light out good knowing
Nice simple test prcedure, Paul. I find many times that the hose fittings on the DPFE sensor corrode and block the holes and can't sense back pressure any longer. I guess that's why they are made out of plastic now.
Great video, which is a super rare thing when dealing with mechanics!
Great job straight ro the point easy to understand.. thanks
Thanks for the information I have a 99 Ford windstar 3.8L with a very rough idle I changed the spark plugs, wires, coil pack, and the intake manifold
what are your fuel trim numbers? engine vacuum at idle? have you checked compression on the engine?
ScannerDanner no I haven’t check the fuel trim I’ll do that on Thursday
Thanks for putting these up, I learn something very useful every week!
+Rod Newcomb thanks Rod
We did a vacuum test on the EGR. If the idle didn't change then there was carbon blocking the passage. If the idle got rough then we changed the DPFE sensor. Worked every time.
I know this was a few months ago that you posted but it stands for Differential (or Delta) Pressure Feedback EGR Sensor
Ah, thanks alot for clarifying that for me.
I now find myself with a possible DPFE sensor problem. The car pings even under light throttle or at cruise speeds. Just went on the ranger station website and it stated something about how just when a DPFE is about to go, that sometimes it wont set a P code. I'm about ready to swap the part out I guess. The motor has no knock sensor that I can find anywhere on the net about. The spark ping just came out nowhere one day.
How rough does the idle get when you force the EGR valve to open? It should stall or just about stall.
The motor stalls right out.
LOL!!!! Funny this should get put up today cause I had one in the shop today with this exact code and the old school metal DPFE sensor just like this one. Only difference was mine was a 5.0 that had it bolted to the back of the motor which made it a royal pain to swap out.
Amazing explain thanks from Guatemala
great video Paul. had that same problem with an 01 explorer. thanks for the videos man. God bless bro.
thanks Paul Danner very cool you are great teacher thanks
If I put my finger over the hole and my truck dies what’s that mean?
Thank you , great information
great test worked on my ranger perfectly
Excellent 👍 information sir! Had to click sub!
Good information. Thanks for sharing and posting it.
Great information as always Paul.
short and sweet, great info
Hello, I'm having PO401 on my 2001 F150 5.4L. Before watching your videos and using a guide I replaced the DPFE sensor with a brand new one from motorcraft. The code will come back as soon I drive. The EGR valve is working properly and has no leaks. The only test that is not normal is the DPFE flow signal test. Using my voltmeter( DPFE plug still attached to DPFE) I connect the red lead to the top wire of the DPFE plug. The voltage at idle is 1.02v when i apply vacuum the engine starts to idle real rough and the highest voltage I read is 1.27v which is not normal it should be 3v-5v. With the engine off key on if I unplug the DPFE wring plug and i use the voltmeter I have 5v on the top wire, the middle wire is ground( confirmed by connecting one lead to 12v at battery) and the bottom wire I get 5v(ref). To me it does sound I have a wiring issue with the top wire or maybe a PCM issue. Do you agree? Any suggestions on how to test to see if I have a bad or fault connection on that wire? I don't have a wring schematic to trace the colors. Thank you.
Wonderful ❤❤❤
that dpfe on my car has the hoses off, lost em.. car still runs , now I have idle issues to a stall at times. could this be why ? or is it a pcv valve or hose collapse ? just got a hose and valve
please help
Thanks again Mr Danner!
Awesome info dude,👍
Good video
Hey awesome video. I have a question. My sensor is always reading 5 volts at all times that the car is running. What should I do?
Before you replace it. With it plugged in, check your sensor ground circuit and make sure it doesn't read 5v too.
You should see 5, 5, and 0 on the three wires with the key on engine off, plugged in and backprobing the connector with a pin. Do not measure these unplugged as the ground test I want you to do will be invalid
I agree that is true but in this case it is quiet in seconds while exhaust manifold is still cool to the touch.
Had P1405 code ended up being the EGR solenoid filter was actually burnt which clogged my solenoid.
SUBSTANTIAL Sir ScannerDanner
Tutorial great thank you
Take care and have a great day
Sir ScannerDanner
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Super!!
👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👌🏼💪🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼 Thank you Buddy…👍🏼😎
Nice Danner
Hi Mr danner the dpfe hoses that goes down to the exhaust pipe, keep popping out of the pipe?, and the car start run rough, I connect it back ,and do it again, can you please tell me what's wrong? Thank you , cheers from ontario ca.
Your catalytic converter is plugged and you have excessive exhaust back pressure blowing those hoses off
I'm glad that you took the time to post this. I have been working with a 97 Ford F250 with the 460 in it and we are having to prob the DPFE with a Voltmeter. Would a scanner like yours be able to show the Voltage on this type of vehicle? Or only newer models. Also what scanner do you own, It looks almost like a SnapOn but I can't tell for sure. Thank you again.
Yes and it is a Snap on. Check out the description of this video. I posted other Ford EGR Flow problem case studies I've done. It will help. In at least one of them I show how to test the DPFE with a voltmeter
Yeah I found it by watching another one of your Videos. We tested it via a Fluke and it is preforming as intended.
If this truck for renter 3.0 engine has a DPFE sensor bad and only dumping two volts that are for 5 it means that when is real freezing cold weather outside will not crank would not start
Ford Ranger 96: What does it mean if the DPFE top wire or signal wire (brown green) remains about 5V with key on engine running? Ref wire also 5 v.
Thanks for any help
What is ground voltage? Third wire. Is it plugged in for these tests?
@@ScannerDanner
Thanks for such a fast reply!
My ground was about 9.65 Volts. I ran my battery down recently.
By the way, I got that 5V reading on the signal wire with the harness disconnected and key on. After I wrote to you, reattached the wire harness to the DPFE, but this time slid the pointed end of my multimeter probe in the rear access of the harness, to contact that signal wire and got 0.6V, engine idling.
@@Madasin_Paine Did you fix this? So sorry, hard to keep up. Your ground pin was reading 9.65 volts on the DPFE sensor? What did the other two wires show you PLUGGED IN and backprobing?
A P1000 can mean that the battery was disconnected for an extended time long enough to erase codes. Run the engine to restore codes.
I have a 2006 Ford Explorer i shooting two code 403 443 i replace both parts n still have the check engine light with the same codes can you help me out thank you
hello sir .. may dpfe sensor giving me a 0.61 V while the engine is idle . when i do the same method in the video the dpfe sensor volt was 0.32 V .. and the idle is getting rough until die .. can you give me any advice about that ? thank you
when i put my finger over the bleed hole my truck turns off does that mean the egr sensor is bad?
What does the DPFE Sensor voltage do? Most likely a bad sensor
hi Mr danner can we check the dpfe sensor for voltage rise when egr opens?
Yes you can
Im sorry Mr Danner I forgot to mentioned, to check with a voltmeter,
1 Question ..
can i get a 401 code cause my dpfe hoses are not on the egr valve ect ? yes right ? my dpfe blew up basically as my cat is clogged I assume and you told me before I think.. with it like that the car still ran fine, now has a rough idle and stalls at times so made me think it is something new like the egr valve itself, could this be or blame it on the missing/blown up/melted dpfe sensor ?? So bad it melted some of the rubber on my intake tube when it blew up , plastic tubes that the hoses go to blew and all melted , haha crazy shit..
Anyway should I clean my egr OR blame it on the dpfe not being there, well it's plugged in still but no hoses and melted away , just about.
have I have a 2003 Mercury Sable 3.0 and it seems like whenever it's cold EGR is making a noise I'm hearing like exhaust gas back there and then after it warms up I'm getting a pulsing back to the air cleaner I was wondering if I'm suspecting EGR but not sure. when vacuum is applied to the EGR it does get the idle gets very rough when you back off it so it seems everything's fine again and but there doesn't seem to be very much vacuum at the where the vacuum goes into the top of the EGR what is it supposed to be.
probably a crack in the exhaust manifold
so my ford rangerxlt has a problem with the acceleration it hesitates to move while we accelerate or push the gas pedal
My engine is rough until I plug the weep hole... what does that mean? I just replaced my DPFE and I'm still getting issues.
you need to be more specific than that
good information. with a quick question. 99ranger 2.5l dpfe reading is koeo 2.14v plugged in 4.79 unplugged that 2.14?
+Scott Kelleher most likely it is a bad sensor. Check your ground before replacing it. It should read less than 100mv on your voltmeter, with the voltmeter com lead connected to battery negative. (you will be performing a ground to ground voltage drop test)-sensor plugged in, backprobing, with the key on
Hey Paul great video as always, any chance we can get ScannerDanner Premium in Puerto Rico?
+Samuel Gonzalez If you use a VPN you'll be able to access it. Thanks!
I HAVE A MERCURY GRAND MARQUIS AND I HAVE LITTLE PROBLEM, WITH THE SAME CODE , THANKS
I have a 03 lincoln navigator, and the dpfe voltage stays at .93 when not running and at idle. when pressing gas it goes to .95 but never over 1 volt. when egr engages with your finger test idles drop, engine rums rough, and volts drop to. 03 at the lowest. so I'm confused if sensor is bad or not. The unplug test also leaves voltage at .93. thanks
so I'm an idiot. I got so excited with my new toys that I didn't realize I u plugged the egr solenoid and not the dpfe sensor. after unplugging the right part, voltage went from .93 to 5. dpfe needs replacing. Thanks for your video
So this test would validate open egr passages and hose integrity?
That is correct
Hi, thank you for share this info. Will you please to tell me how can I perform same analisis as you did but for a EGR module in a 2006 ford freestar please? Thks. regards!!!
06 I believe they combined the egr, the solenoid and dpfe sensor in one unit on this?
@@ScannerDanner yes they allí together, there Is a 6 pin conector in there... The test on this one is the same you show in your videos For every separaste parte?
@@angellizarraga4170 6 pin 🤔
3 of the wires would be the DPFE sensor (5v ref, signal and ground) 2 of the wires would be the solenoid (power and ground with one of those two being switched by the PCM) not sure what the 6th wire would be without a diagram
@@ScannerDanner how can I send you a diagram of the conector in order to get how to test the EGR module?
@@angellizarraga4170 the 6th wire is a map sensor signal.
Pin 1 BRN/PNK is the EVR (-) and pin 4 RED is EVR (+)
The EVR (egr valve regulator/solenoid) is ground side switched, so the EVR (-) I the circuit that gets switched by the engine computer
is the test being done at idle or is someone pressing the throttle?
1990 f250 5.0, what if when I put my finger over that bleeder the engine doesn't get rough, and what if it does? Does it mean its good if the engine starts to run rough?????
You have restricted EGR passages. Remove the throttle body to clean them
Did I hear you correctly when you said that when the connector is pulled loose from the DPFE sensor the signal voltage should rise to 5 volts? Great video by the way....
+Robin Alexander yes you did. this is a design feature within the signal circuit, used by the ECM to determine wiring integrity
+ScannerDanner Premium - Thanks for the quick reply, I am getting 5 volts on the signal wire if the connector is plugged in or not and it never changes regardless of pressure. I am thinking it is time to try a new DPFE. I appreciate your comments, I was thinking bad PCM!!!!
+Robin Alexander Not at all my friend. This is definitely a design feature. Just make sure you have a good sensor ground before replacing the DPFE.
With the key on and connector plugged in, backprobe the ground wire and make sure it is not also reading 5v. This would indicate an open ground and could cause your issue. A good ground will read under 100mv
What should I look for if I am only getting 3 volts to the Signal wire?
3v during the opening of the EGR valve test? Do it again at 1500 rpm
I did change the dpfe out the reading dropped to 1 volt and the 32.1 on 200m vac
I'm getting the same p0401 code in my 3.0 2001 Ranger. Previously had p1400 which was low voltage to dpfe sensor. Replaced the sensor and then got code p0401. I have replaced the egr solenoid and the egr valve and I am still getting p0401. Just went out and covered the bleed hole on the solenoid and there was no change to engine idle. Was thinking maybe a vacuum leak? Anyone have any idea what this could be?
You most likely have plugged egr passages. I'm pretty sure they run right behind the throttle body on the 3.0L? It's been a long time. But I'm certain I have at least one or two videos with an insufficient EGR flow where I'm showing cleaning those passages. But if your set up is like I think, you need to remove the throttle body
@@ScannerDanner Thanks for the reply. I'll check your videos and then give a try.
What software are you running in this video?
I'm using a Snap-on Verus (professional scan tool and not cheap) but there are others that will provide you with this type of information for much less than the Verus.
Ok, I very recently cleaned all of my egr and throttle body holes VERY thuroughly multiple times and just did this test. When I plugged the solenoide hole the idle did not change, what do you think? Also, I do have a BOSCH scan tool but it doesnt show dpfe voltage.
Use a voltmeter for the dpfe testing. I have other videos on this.
Does the idle get rough if you manually open the egr valve?
@@ScannerDanner I am testing it as we speak, yes the idle does get rough and almost stalls if you apply vacuum directly to to the egr valbe
So your EGR and passages are clean. Let's focus on the EVR solenoid next. You should have a vacuum supply on one hose (red) and then the integrity of the other hose needs to be checked (green). This one goes from EVR to EGR.
@@ScannerDanner Ok, I will check to see if the solenoid is working next. Would a 9 volt hurt the solenoid at all?
@@ScannerDanner actually, I just pulled off the hose thats suppose to apply vacuum to the solenoide and there doesnt seem to be any vauum in it, is it suppose to always have some pull? Or is it periodicallt suppose to have vacuum??
I really need to get a scanner
I unplugged the dpfe sensor and didn’t get any change in the idle
Unplugging the DPFE wouldn't change anything on how it idles, even if it was bad.
Thanks, Are You Tech. professional
yes I am, 25 year ASE Master and 18 years teaching at a technical college
If that bleed is constantly venting vacuum (until energized by the PCM)... isn't that a vacuum leak? Nice quick test otherwise!
+Thomas EXOVCDS yes it is my friend, but it is so small that it is insignificant
what does EGR stand for
Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve :)
hello I was doing the test on mine but on my evr there's a very very little flow, I put my finger on the bleed and there's no change in idle, and no vacuum at all on the bleed hole
Plugged up intake passage. What kind of car?
97 ranger and thanx for you respond
Pull the throttle body off, you will see the plugged up intake passage for the EGR
my throttle body and manifold is one piece, but I inserted a wire to brake the carbon and flushed with carb cleaner and it came a lot,but still the vacuum is not that strong like yours
can't find any cracks in exhaust manifold I'd think if there's a crack the noise wouldn't go away.
very common for a crack in an exhaust manifold to seal up when it is hot. I wouldn't have suggested otherwise
My EGR Valve Pressure Sensor
Is in a different position than yours I also have a 2001 Ford ranger
with the meter on 200m vac I am reading 32.1
If all those tests pass, then what? Remove air intake throttle body ?
Did the RPM get rough and almost stall? Did the DPFE voltage change as I showed in this video? What exact tests did you do?
Paul can you tell me with an electric throttle, should the throttle plate open and shut when you put you foot on an off the throttle, if you take the air hose off and just look at it...with ignition on, or does it have to be running, and i assume some other sensors might effect it...Fred in England..
+Tom Smith you can put the car in gear (engine off), then the throttle plate will open when you push on the pedal
+ScannerDanner Ok Thanks.....
My dpfe voltage is 1.29v at idle
EGR Valve could be leaking slightly
I bought one of these every year for 3 years on my explorer. Don't get one from Napa
Try a Wells DPFE next time, and it will be the last one you replace. You can find them at AutoZone under the Duralast brand name.
rusco321 Eric O turned me on to wells Ford COP coils. Are they at auto zone too?
+Joe Shearer Most, if not all Duralast engine management components are manufactured by Wells.
Can't beat that. Thanks
I need to change the egr sensor dtfe but its all the way in the back of the engine block
and?
ScannerDanner it hard to do it myself
I can't get the f'in cap off
Hi danner,,,, I have a 07 ranger 4.0 that had a new used engine installed , got it back and immediately got stuck rich 02 sesnors upstream banks 1 and 2 .... the mechanic cant figure it out either . that's with 4 new bosch 02s he has tried which I know is the symptom bot the cause ,,,,,,, but today I pulled the hose of the egr and electrical connection of the dpfe sensor with no effects while truck was running and at operating temperature , THE TRUCK ONLY THOWD OF THE 196 AND 198 CODES I BELEIEVE and nothing else , I wish I had live stream data , but money and knowledge are limited ,,,,,,,, I would think though that those things unhooked would have to have some effect but maybe not at ,,, at idle ,,,,,,,,,,, the truck has no power and sputters when giving gas .
Is the truck a flex fuel vehicle or was the engine that was installed a flex fuel? They use completely different injectors
I don't believe neither are flex fuel ,,,,,, does the egr vacuum control have control over the other 2 sensors and then is that controlled by the computer . to achieve fuel trim