That is a good tip thanks. Apparently the 5v ref circuit is being pulled to ground through the DPFE and affecting the rest of the shared circuits. I'll have to film that on the next one I see. I agree with your statement on why these fail and I would add moisture to the cause too.
Thanks for the video. I had a 2003 3.0 Ford Escape giving me fits with a PO403 code. Tried everything, then used your servo test and found a broken wire. It was the smaller wire right at the plug (not the white&red wire). wired in a plug from the salvage yard and it runs like new. The cost of repair was $5.00.
Thanks man, I really appreciate that. You like my next upload then. It has a bad DPFE and I show more detailed wiring tests on that one. I'll get it up next week.
only on some cars. It depends on the EGR system design. Most systems there is a main intake passage for the EGR, on these types a single cylinder misfire will NOT result in a plugged passage. On the type with individual EGR passages, yes a plugged passage on all but one cylinder=misfire
I recently seen a car that had a ecm danaged by someone welding on the vehicle. Is there a sure fire way to prevent this from happening, I have heard removing the batt cables but I was wondering what the proper way is. Thanks
For sure. DPFE sensor failures are common. I have a few other videos on Ford EGR systems that may help you too. There is at least one or two with bad DPFE sensors that I show the exact procedure used to test them.
Thanks I discovered some fuses that were missing, and for this reason I was not getting 12v at the connector side of the egr modulator. Thanks again. Oh and your ebook is very informative.
Only if you stuffed a dome light bulb into your test light:-). My test light only draws 200 ma which is completely fine for this circuit. In my book I have a warning on this and it just involves knowing what your test light current draw is before doing this kind of test.
Good stuff !! Question: On the test light connection to computer signal wire is there any concerns that the test light could draw too much currant. I do not know the capacity of the drivers.
I know this was done quite a while ago, but was wondering who's scanner you are running there? Was looking for a video to explain to my buddy how the DPFEs work and how to diagnose without a lengthy write up and your video did the trick.
I was using a Uni-spotter to weld studs for body work. Luckily I had the negative cable disconnected already, but my cousin who does bodywork says that it would have damaged the ecu if it was connected. Next time i'll just take the battery complety out. I think it sends positive through negative endangering some systems.
Chronic P1405 code. 1997 Ford I've tested dpfe and vac solenoid per this video. All rubber hoses have clamps and are no plugged or cracked. Motor runs perfect. Except for luck at smog checks, the P1405 error has been on solid for at least 6. Years. The only thing I can't do is test the driver. Any ideas? What condition tells the computer to post the error? Dpfe signal is 1 golf and 4+ volts pumped down with mighty vac.
i know this a focus, but i have a 2001 v6 ford escape the p1409 code came on i change the EVR control circut and the check engine light still turns on last one was fried up and was throwing low ohms but i need help the p1409 still comes on the scanner!
P1409 indicates a solenoid wiring or computer problem. With the key on engine off both wires on the EVR solenoid should read battery voltage. Give me the result of this test and then we will go from there.
@scannerdanner 99 Lexus ls 400 keys locked in the trunk.. Truck release switch is locked out, no key to it.. My plan is to take it out and bypass whit power probe to activate trunk solinoid.. What do you think?
is it possible that a 2000 ford focus does not have the egr system witht the evr and all that? mine does not have that.. my car runs like crap, i'm afraid someone might have taken it off the car
Thanks...great video. One question. I have a 2002 Taurus 3.0 DOHC. Engine light came on and codes P1409, P0303, P0316, P0161, P0155, P0141,P0135 showed up on my scanner. Ford dealer says all 02 sensors are good and all wiring ok so they said it must be the PCM so it has to be replaced. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks!
Well just found out it was the PCM. The ignition coil had 2 small cracks in the bottom and that probably shorted out the PCM. After finding a used PCM at Flagship One Inc. I had it changed out, flashed along with new plugs, new coil and new wires. $1155.00 later and all is well. All codes are gone and have not returned and engine light has not come on since.
Great video Scannerdanner! i'm having trouble with my 99 Ford Ranger 2.5. i have the same code P1409 but i see 12v on both sides of the solenoid. then i checked vacuum from the motor on one of the lines and had vacuum. i than disconnected the egr and opened it with the car running and it seems to be working fine. also the line going to the egr is fine. what should my next step be? i also have a P0455 but that shouldn't effect it right?
ScannerDanner Thanks for the reply! and the P1409 comes up as "Electronic Vacuum regulator control circuit" and i thought the DPFE would've gave me P1401 or something along those lines
hey .... I had a egr code and went to check and the plastic on the dpfe broke so I had to glue it back on and add a new hose ...anyway code is gone all is well but the ebrake flickers at times now why ? also neg term on battery bolt broke but I fixed it and its tight but still flickers... any ideas ????
Hello! I have the p1409 code. I have changed out the EGR Solenoid and reset the code but it has come back. I have tested the voltage on the EGR solenoid and it shows 12v on each wire. I applied vacuum onto the EGR valve and the engine bogged down. Does this mean that the DPFE sensor is likely the issue? I don't have a fancy scan tool to test for a short or open circuits. I would greatly appreciate a response, I have emissions in a few weeks and I will not pass at the moment!
Here is one for you..... what is you get a 2000 focus that acts like it misfires, looses power, spputters.... and you get no engine codes, none, never, nada.... the check engine light does come on if you run the engine with the MAF unplugged. its the ZTEC DOHC. All of the following have been replaced. computer, DPFE, MAF, TPS, Cam and Crank position sensores, Fuel pump and 2 injectors, timing belt, pulley, tensioner, DPFE hoses, plugs, plug wires, coil pack .... Ihave taken the car back from the shop and I am inspecting this issue myself..... when I changed the DPFE and hoses, I found the HI hose to be clogged with a bluish grey substance. Just as a check I disconnected the vaccuum line on the EGR and plugged it with a screw.... it made no difference.. After watching your video, I checked the voltages on the EGR solenoid valve. when plugged in I have volage on one of the two pins only.... when looking at the firewall from the front of the car, 12v only appears at the pin on the right. I checked using a test light from battery + to the pin and it did not light..... so its not shorted to ground..... I am now wondering if I have a broken wire.... but I am having trouble tracing the wire.... any thoughts on others to check before I start pulling cable harnesses apart? I could really use some help. KD0JWD@gmail.com
This one gets stranger yet.... and is why the shop has not been able to find the problem. I rechecked the voltages on the EGRVR and I have 12v on the driver side pin and 7v on the passenger side pin of the connector. even when the voltages are there, the driving problem still exists...... I had someone else ride with me and they told me it acted more like the Catalytic converter was clogging up. However, if I downshift when the car is acting like its loosing power, I can push thru it when I pump the gas pedal and then hold it down..... during the loss of power (time period) the car violently bucks back and forth.....as soon as it pushes thru it, it smoothes out...... driving me crazy..... HELP !!! still no engine codes.....
Helpful video. 99 Ford Mustang - I had no power to the solenoid wire with the key on. Fuse #8 was blown under dash. Was throwing 02 sensor codes and Vapor Canister solenoid code also. New fuse...no more engine light. Hope this helps somebody.
Im also having the issue of the hoses popping off the dpfe sensor. i have made sure that the hoses themselves didnt have a blockage from carbon build up. i also did the voltage test on the solenoid. I have a reading of 12.2v the same as the battery voltage with the key on. I also checked the solenoid and had an ohm reading somewhere in the mid to high 30's. I then checked the 3 pin harness to the dpfe and on the main hot wire i did get the normal reading in the 4v range. I also did a quick vacuum check on the egr and the car stuttered and stalled. so i would think it is functioning properly. Would you say i need to look at my catalytic converter. The car does seem sluggish especially once up to operating temp or warmer. The car runs noticeably better when the dpfe hoses blow off. Other than the added exhaust fumes and horrid hiss from the egr tube blowing the exhaust out of the 1/2 inch diameter mini exhaust. You have the most informative video on here about this specific item. I have the egr insufficient flow/ no flow detected code as well as a lean code. I have done a smoke test to check for vacuum leak and did not find any. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
absolutely you have an exhaust restriction! (melted cat but remember pieces of the cat can get lodged downstream in the exhaust (muffler)). When you removed the cat (after proving it is restricted), look at the back side of it and make sure the "honeycomb" is intact. If it is you don't need to worry about the rest of the exhaust. If there are chunks missing, you may have to replace the muffler as well. This should help you. Oh and thanks for watching!! ruclips.net/video/JIU8j4YBZxw/видео.html ruclips.net/video/Lafv2c4szZY/видео.html The reason those hoses keep burning/popping off is from excessive exhaust back pressure. This also explains the loud hissing you hear AND why it runs better with the hoses removed. You are giving the exhaust somewhere else to go. Make sense?
ScannerDanner absolutely. Thanks for your video and help. Due to being in ohio alot of the exhaust had rotted out so i now has a straight pipe all the way back from the cat. I will have to get another cat before emissions tests in April. Again thanks for the videos it allowed me to eliminate alot of possible electronic sensors and gadgets ect. Lol. I can work with exhaust its hard to diagnose bad sensors and such without a nice obd scanner/ computer.
Mr. Danner, hi. well my question is where do i need to go from here to get up to speed on your videos like from day 1? I see that you keep referring to a class room setting.
Start with my week 1 playlist on SD Premium. It is week one of my class at Rosedale Technical College and I have a class full of newbies, follow it in order. Also watch the scan tool and scope series I have in that same week. Even if you do not own the scope or scan tool I am using, you need to watch these. I taught so many fundamentals that apply to all of them. It also wouldn't be a bad idea to watch the older recordings of this same week when your finished. I never teach the class the same. There will be things you'll pick up even though most of it is a repeat. Then move on to week 2. and so on. There is a 14 day free trial for that channel to you'll have plenty of time to look around. And of course my playlists on this channel accompany everything as well. I have the playlists on this channel coordinated with my book. The same book I use in my class at RTC and use for all of my classroom lectures recorded on SD Premium.
hi Mr danner I like all yours videos, one question, can you test the defense sensor with a voltmeter? for guys like me that don't have that expensive scanner
I have some other videos on this showing the DPFE checks with a voltmeter. Just type in DPFE in the search box of my channel. Another tip on Fords, they usually use a green tracer on their signal wires for their sensors.
If the ground circuit is pulse width modulated, would there be any possibilities of damaging the module is u hold you're test light to the ground side of the circuit to activate the solenoid
No, you will never hurt a ground side switched driver (low side driver) by supplying a ground on the control wire. The only concern with PWM solenoids would be overloading the solenoid with too much current and burning up the windings of the solenoid. Another reason I use the test light instead of a jumper wire when I can.
I've heard its a bad idea cause current can flow through the test light... Never had a problem tho and I do it all the time. Still I always have that fear in back off my mind... LoL. I've fried 2 ecms in my 9 years. Oops
I'm trying to find my control wire on the solenoid connector to energize it. Both say 12dcv when the key is on. But when I disconnect the connector from the solenoid and then test the probes inside the connector one will say 12dcv and the other keeps climbing past 12dcv. I let it climb past 80dcv. Is that normal? I'm trying to figure this p1409 code. Solenoid was replaced and dpfe was replaced. Light still on.
I have a 99 f250 v10 but I put in the 03 engine (basically thw same thing) and it is giving me that 1409 code as well as the dpfe code 1401 code dpfe high imput circuit, and pointers?
You're the best like always the best hey Paul I have a question my smog piss keep resetting every time I turn off the engine what can coze something like this?
Plugged intake passage. I have other EGR videos that may help. You need to do the tests I show in this video and others and see if the engine gets rough when you open the EGR valve.
ScannerDanner Premium Its funny you say that I just took the EGR off and the carbon buildup was unreal. Ive cleaned all of that out of every opening on that thing. Ill see what happens.
swilson7674 Depending on the model Ford you are working on you will have to remove the throttle body to get to where the real blockage is. Removing the EGR is almost never enough.
ScannerDanner Right on. I put the EGR back on and I still get same code plus a new one to add to the list, a P0171. So, taking the throttle body off will perhaps reveal the main issue?
2000 Ford Expedition 5.4. Just redid the intake manifold got it all hooked up and now I have eight codes all has to do with sensors failure. P0743 p0443 p0135 p1409 p0755
Common power feed to all of those circuits I believe. Check for a blown fuse and make sure you didn't pinch the O2 sensor wires in between the intake manifold when you bolted it back up (shorting the heater circuit and blowing the fuse)
+Sean Perkins bcoz frist wire its 12 v,, is show up grown side switch,if both show 0v then u have power side swtich, put test light + battery test both wire one of test light will on,u now its feed anther wire not light come on its control side from pcm,, im right paul
Hello I was trying to check my egr modulator on my 2000 expedition, and when checking for voltage going to the plug i'm only getting 10.5 mv when plugged in on both sides and when unplugged i'm getting 10.5 mv on the right side and 12.5 mv on the left please advise. I think i may ahve a bad pcm.
Bo This circuit is ground side controlled so that means this solenoid should have a voltage supply all the time with the key on. You have a supply side problem, not a PCM problem. Check all your fuses first. I see you just purchased my eBook, Thank You! Go to Section 3 for more information about how these circuits work. Also check out Section 3 lecture videos on ScannerDanner Premium. It is free for 14 days.
first off the p0171 code is caused by the tube that goes to the pcv valve and is split and collapsed. it is not where the little filter is, it is where your hand is when you are pointing to the dpfe and related circuitry.
+ScannerDanner my bad, I should have paid closer attention. I don't like "cold air" intakes either, people put them on and then drive their car to my garage wondering why the MIL is on...
Hey, can you tell me, I am getting an insufficient flow to EGR code (can't remember exact code #). It looks brand new. I saw a few other videos of people with the same problem, and the problem was solved when they replaced the DPFE sensor. Could this be the only problem?
@@ScannerDanner oof. I did have a intake plenum gasket leak which caused misfire on cyl 1. Changing all the sensors for peace of mind. Will further test to confirm complete functionality. Thank you for sharing!
@@ScannerDanner Awesome! Just got done and all systems are a go! ST-Fuel trims are bouncing around 0.0%. My original metal DPFE seemed dead with the DMM test and the other solenoids seemed electronically fine, Will keep them as spares. Sadly, I ended up breaking my EGR tube when trying to install the new DPFE sensor. Too far rusted. I own a 96 Ford E150 conversion van with a 5.8l V8, 351W I think. Its not easy with the tight spaces to work on that thing. I am hoping this will be the last time I take that dog house out. One last question if I may. My last issue, is tackling the ABS system. Just purchased a Innova 5610 scanner and tried to get ABS scan/readout but it was not able to communicate with that system. Might end up returning it and getting a different scanner maybe. Changed all three wheel sensors and from time to time, I do hear the abs motor kick on briefly when I KOE-Off. I wish to accomplish two things. Verify speed sensors and test motor/break-bleed. Do I need specific tools for that?
Pablo, unfortunately I do not speak Spanish. I see you commenting a lot and without using Google translate I have no idea what you are saying. Sorry my friend
There are two types: 1. The crowd looking for a 3 minute silver bullet fix video, that all they want is to fix their car without doing any testing (parts changers) 2. Those in my field who hate that I am educating the public. They feel I'm taking jobs away from them.
Hey good mornin, first I wanna tell you thank you, your videos have helped me so much. If yo see this comment, can you please help me? This is the situation: In my Ford Escape 3.0, The control wire from the PCM, the One that has to ground and get 0 voltaje, after I start the Truck, it keeps the voltage and even it rises to 13.6 o 13.7 Volts, what can be happening? Thank you so much y hope you see this comment Greetings from Mexico
HI I HAVE 2001 MAZDA TRIBUTE I HAVE PO1409 I HAVE CLEAR IT COMES BACK I REPLACE EVS SELONOID AND DPFF AND ECU I STILL HAVE CODE ALSO ICANN IT HAVE INCONPLED EGR AND CATALIC CONVETER PLEASE HELP THIS STARTED SINCE I LEFT CAR SIT FOR 6 MONTHS I DROVE 4TO 6 TIME DROVE IT ERAISE IT CODES AND SAME PROBLEM PLEASE HELP DAN
A scan tool to read voltages would help a lot. You may have a bad connection those can be a mother to find. Have u even checked the valve and passages? 1409 is insufficient flow? I don't recall.
That is a good tip thanks. Apparently the 5v ref circuit is being pulled to ground through the DPFE and affecting the rest of the shared circuits. I'll have to film that on the next one I see.
I agree with your statement on why these fail and I would add moisture to the cause too.
Thanks for the video. I had a 2003 3.0 Ford Escape giving me fits with a PO403 code. Tried everything, then used your servo test and found a broken wire. It was the smaller wire right at the plug (not the white&red wire). wired in a plug from the salvage yard and it runs like new. The cost of repair was $5.00.
03 Sable is a fix plugged Pcv valve.. Things runs very smooth now.. Thanks Paul for ur insight..
Thanks man, I really appreciate that. You like my next upload then. It has a bad DPFE and I show more detailed wiring tests on that one. I'll get it up next week.
only on some cars. It depends on the EGR system design. Most systems there is a main intake passage for the EGR, on these types a single cylinder misfire will NOT result in a plugged passage. On the type with individual EGR passages, yes a plugged passage on all but one cylinder=misfire
Thank you and hello to you from Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania!
mr paul`s lectures are so great and complete so his students are lucky.
I recently seen a car that had a ecm danaged by someone welding on the vehicle. Is there a sure fire way to prevent this from happening, I have heard removing the batt cables but I was wondering what the proper way is. Thanks
For sure. DPFE sensor failures are common. I have a few other videos on Ford EGR systems that may help you too. There is at least one or two with bad DPFE sensors that I show the exact procedure used to test them.
Absolutely great video my man.
We greatly appreciate it.
Keep up the good vids!
This is the best video out there on DPFE diagnoses.
Thanks again!
Thanks I discovered some fuses that were missing, and for this reason I was not getting 12v at the connector side of the egr modulator. Thanks again. Oh and your ebook is very informative.
Only if you stuffed a dome light bulb into your test light:-). My test light only draws 200 ma which is completely fine for this circuit. In my book I have a warning on this and it just involves knowing what your test light current draw is before doing this kind of test.
good timing paul, learning for lunchtime
Good stuff !! Question: On the test light connection to computer signal wire is there any concerns that the test light could draw too much currant. I do not know the capacity of the drivers.
I can't be a Parts Changer, proud of you Danner
No problem, glad you fixed it
I know this was done quite a while ago, but was wondering who's scanner you are running there? Was looking for a video to explain to my buddy how the DPFEs work and how to diagnose without a lengthy write up and your video did the trick.
Ihave learned lots of tips from you keep up whith those videos
I think so, but I wasn't holding the light. Most likely he wasn't making good contact with the pin initially.
I commented on your channel page. Do the test light test next
I was using a Uni-spotter to weld studs for body work. Luckily I had the negative cable disconnected already, but my cousin who does bodywork says that it would have damaged the ecu if it was connected. Next time i'll just take the battery complety out. I think it sends positive through negative endangering some systems.
Chronic P1405 code. 1997 Ford I've tested dpfe and vac solenoid per this video. All rubber hoses have clamps and are no plugged or cracked. Motor runs perfect. Except for luck at smog checks, the P1405 error has been on solid for at least 6. Years. The only thing I can't do is test the driver. Any ideas? What condition tells the computer to post the error? Dpfe signal is 1 golf and 4+ volts pumped down with mighty vac.
i know this a focus, but i have a 2001 v6 ford escape the p1409 code came on i change the EVR control circut and the check engine light still turns on last one was fried up and was throwing low ohms but i need help the p1409 still comes on the scanner!
Do you know that clogged EGR line Could cause single cylinder misfires.
P1409 indicates a solenoid wiring or computer problem. With the key on engine off both wires on the EVR solenoid should read battery voltage. Give me the result of this test and then we will go from there.
your vdeos are so awsome paul hi from GUADALAJARA MEXICO
@scannerdanner 99 Lexus ls 400 keys locked in the trunk.. Truck release switch is locked out, no key to it.. My plan is to take it out and bypass whit power probe to activate trunk solinoid.. What do you think?
I take that back. It does monitor air flow into the crankcase. So it could set a code.
is it possible that a 2000 ford focus does not have the egr system witht the evr and all that? mine does not have that.. my car runs like crap, i'm afraid someone might have taken it off the car
SUBSTANTIAL Sir ScannerDanner
Tutorial great thank you very much helpful video
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
So at 9:19 when the test light didn't light, that was just because the test light wasn't making a good connection to the harness, right?
Thanks...great video. One question. I have a 2002 Taurus 3.0 DOHC. Engine light came on and codes P1409, P0303, P0316, P0161, P0155, P0141,P0135 showed up on my scanner. Ford dealer says all 02 sensors are good and all wiring ok so they said it must be the PCM so it has to be replaced. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks!
Well just found out it was the PCM. The ignition coil had 2 small cracks in the bottom and that probably shorted out the PCM. After finding a used PCM at Flagship One Inc. I had it changed out, flashed along with new plugs, new coil and new wires. $1155.00 later and all is well. All codes are gone and have not returned and engine light has not come on since.
YOU ARE THE MAN
Great video Scannerdanner! i'm having trouble with my 99 Ford Ranger 2.5. i have the same code P1409 but i see 12v on both sides of the solenoid. then i checked vacuum from the motor on one of the lines and had vacuum. i than disconnected the egr and opened it with the car running and it seems to be working fine. also the line going to the egr is fine. what should my next step be? i also have a P0455 but that shouldn't effect it right?
What is the definition of the P1409 code again?
I believe you need to focus on your DPFE sensor
ScannerDanner Thanks for the reply! and the P1409 comes up as "Electronic Vacuum regulator control circuit" and i thought the DPFE would've gave me P1401 or something along those lines
if your focus has variable valve timing then there will be NO EGR valve.
lol, lunch time. Its midnight here. I'm going to bed :-)
hey .... I had a egr code and went to check and the plastic on the dpfe broke so I had to glue it back on and add a new hose ...anyway code is gone all is well but the ebrake flickers at times now why ? also neg term on battery bolt broke but I fixed it and its tight but still flickers... any ideas ????
gracias, con tu video pude encontrar la falla de un ford escape 04 3.0 . . . .bendiciones
Hello! I have the p1409 code. I have changed out the EGR Solenoid and reset the code but it has come back. I have tested the voltage on the EGR solenoid and it shows 12v on each wire. I applied vacuum onto the EGR valve and the engine bogged down. Does this mean that the DPFE sensor is likely the issue? I don't have a fancy scan tool to test for a short or open circuits. I would greatly appreciate a response, I have emissions in a few weeks and I will not pass at the moment!
Good video! I looked very good. What do you think of Jimmy Hendrix? If you like my guitar and harmonica you will be happy.
Here is one for you..... what is you get a 2000 focus that acts like it misfires, looses power, spputters.... and you get no engine codes, none, never, nada.... the check engine light does come on if you run the engine with the MAF unplugged. its the ZTEC DOHC. All of the following have been replaced. computer, DPFE, MAF, TPS, Cam and Crank position sensores, Fuel pump and 2 injectors, timing belt, pulley, tensioner, DPFE hoses, plugs, plug wires, coil pack .... Ihave taken the car back from the shop and I am inspecting this issue myself..... when I changed the DPFE and hoses, I found the HI hose to be clogged with a bluish grey substance. Just as a check I disconnected the vaccuum line on the EGR and plugged it with a screw.... it made no difference.. After watching your video, I checked the voltages on the EGR solenoid valve. when plugged in I have volage on one of the two pins only.... when looking at the firewall from the front of the car, 12v only appears at the pin on the right. I checked using a test light from battery + to the pin and it did not light..... so its not shorted to ground..... I am now wondering if I have a broken wire.... but I am having trouble tracing the wire.... any thoughts on others to check before I start pulling cable harnesses apart? I could really use some help. KD0JWD@gmail.com
This one gets stranger yet.... and is why the shop has not been able to find the problem. I rechecked the voltages on the EGRVR and I have 12v on the driver side pin and 7v on the passenger side pin of the connector. even when the voltages are there, the driving problem still exists...... I had someone else ride with me and they told me it acted more like the Catalytic converter was clogging up. However, if I downshift when the car is acting like its loosing power, I can push thru it when I pump the gas pedal and then hold it down..... during the loss of power (time period) the car violently bucks back and forth.....as soon as it pushes thru it, it smoothes out...... driving me crazy..... HELP !!! still no engine codes.....
Helpful video. 99 Ford Mustang - I had no power to the solenoid wire with the key on. Fuse #8 was blown under dash. Was throwing 02 sensor codes and Vapor Canister solenoid code also. New fuse...no more engine light. Hope this helps somebody.
Im also having the issue of the hoses popping off the dpfe sensor. i have made sure that the hoses themselves didnt have a blockage from carbon build up. i also did the voltage test on the solenoid. I have a reading of 12.2v the same as the battery voltage with the key on. I also checked the solenoid and had an ohm reading somewhere in the mid to high 30's. I then checked the 3 pin harness to the dpfe and on the main hot wire i did get the normal reading in the 4v range. I also did a quick vacuum check on the egr and the car stuttered and stalled. so i would think it is functioning properly. Would you say i need to look at my catalytic converter. The car does seem sluggish especially once up to operating temp or warmer. The car runs noticeably better when the dpfe hoses blow off. Other than the added exhaust fumes and horrid hiss from the egr tube blowing the exhaust out of the 1/2 inch diameter mini exhaust. You have the most informative video on here about this specific item. I have the egr insufficient flow/ no flow detected code as well as a lean code. I have done a smoke test to check for vacuum leak and did not find any. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
absolutely you have an exhaust restriction! (melted cat but remember pieces of the cat can get lodged downstream in the exhaust (muffler)). When you removed the cat (after proving it is restricted), look at the back side of it and make sure the "honeycomb" is intact. If it is you don't need to worry about the rest of the exhaust. If there are chunks missing, you may have to replace the muffler as well.
This should help you. Oh and thanks for watching!!
ruclips.net/video/JIU8j4YBZxw/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/Lafv2c4szZY/видео.html
The reason those hoses keep burning/popping off is from excessive exhaust back pressure. This also explains the loud hissing you hear AND why it runs better with the hoses removed. You are giving the exhaust somewhere else to go. Make sense?
ScannerDanner absolutely. Thanks for your video and help. Due to being in ohio alot of the exhaust had rotted out so i now has a straight pipe all the way back from the cat. I will have to get another cat before emissions tests in April. Again thanks for the videos it allowed me to eliminate alot of possible electronic sensors and gadgets ect. Lol. I can work with exhaust its hard to diagnose bad sensors and such without a nice obd scanner/ computer.
"Green Cruddies"? (I couldn't resist). Is that a technical term? Excellent review of voltage drop test.
Mr. Danner, hi. well my question is where do i need to go from here to get up to speed on your videos like from day 1? I see that you keep referring to a class room setting.
Start with my week 1 playlist on SD Premium. It is week one of my class at Rosedale Technical College and I have a class full of newbies, follow it in order. Also watch the scan tool and scope series I have in that same week. Even if you do not own the scope or scan tool I am using, you need to watch these. I taught so many fundamentals that apply to all of them. It also wouldn't be a bad idea to watch the older recordings of this same week when your finished. I never teach the class the same. There will be things you'll pick up even though most of it is a repeat.
Then move on to week 2. and so on.
There is a 14 day free trial for that channel to you'll have plenty of time to look around.
And of course my playlists on this channel accompany everything as well. I have the playlists on this channel coordinated with my book. The same book I use in my class at RTC and use for all of my classroom lectures recorded on SD Premium.
hi Mr danner I like all yours videos, one question, can you test the defense sensor with a voltmeter? for guys like me that don't have that expensive scanner
Absolutely!
Thank you for your quick response, you are great, to which of the wires of the dpfe connector you connect the voltmeter? Cheers from ontario ca,
I have some other videos on this showing the DPFE checks with a voltmeter. Just type in DPFE in the search box of my channel.
Another tip on Fords, they usually use a green tracer on their signal wires for their sensors.
If the ground circuit is pulse width modulated, would there be any possibilities of damaging the module is u hold you're test light to the ground side of the circuit to activate the solenoid
No, you will never hurt a ground side switched driver (low side driver) by supplying a ground on the control wire. The only concern with PWM solenoids would be overloading the solenoid with too much current and burning up the windings of the solenoid. Another reason I use the test light instead of a jumper wire when I can.
I've heard its a bad idea cause current can flow through the test light... Never had a problem tho and I do it all the time. Still I always have that fear in back off my mind... LoL. I've fried 2 ecms in my 9 years. Oops
Wiring ficm relay wrong broke ficm. Jumped a turn signal smoked bcm. :(
I'm trying to find my control wire on the solenoid connector to energize it. Both say 12dcv when the key is on. But when I disconnect the connector from the solenoid and then test the probes inside the connector one will say 12dcv and the other keeps climbing past 12dcv. I let it climb past 80dcv. Is that normal? I'm trying to figure this p1409 code. Solenoid was replaced and dpfe was replaced. Light still on.
The one that keeps climbing is probably a millivolt number and you are using an auto ranging meter. Switch the auto range off and retest.
I have a 99 f250 v10 but I put in the 03 engine (basically thw same thing) and it is giving me that 1409 code as well as the dpfe code 1401 code dpfe high imput circuit, and pointers?
What would make the egr stick open on a 2003 Ford explorer Eddie Bauer 4.6? Any information would be appreciated thank you.
Does it have an EVR solenoid like in this video? If it does, that would be the first thing to check
Good information thank.
You're the best like always the best hey Paul I have a question my smog piss keep resetting every time I turn off the engine what can coze something like this?
That's weird. Force a trouble code to set. Does it also clear on every start up?
@@ScannerDanner yes on every start up it cleared the trouble code
I replaced the EVR and DPFE and im still getting a P1409 trouble code. What is the likely cause?
Plugged intake passage. I have other EGR videos that may help.
You need to do the tests I show in this video and others and see if the engine gets rough when you open the EGR valve.
ScannerDanner Premium Its funny you say that I just took the EGR off and the carbon buildup was unreal. Ive cleaned all of that out of every opening on that thing. Ill see what happens.
swilson7674
Depending on the model Ford you are working on you will have to remove the throttle body to get to where the real blockage is. Removing the EGR is almost never enough.
ScannerDanner Right on. I put the EGR back on and I still get same code plus a new one to add to the list, a P0171. So, taking the throttle body off will perhaps reveal the main issue?
swilson7674 I have a 2000 Lincoln LS 3.9 V8; ....if that helps any?
this has to be a milli volt reading. There is no way you are reading that high of voltage. you have a bad solenoid
2000 Ford Expedition 5.4. Just redid the intake manifold got it all hooked up and now I have eight codes all has to do with sensors failure. P0743 p0443 p0135 p1409 p0755
Common power feed to all of those circuits I believe. Check for a blown fuse and make sure you didn't pinch the O2 sensor wires in between the intake manifold when you bolted it back up (shorting the heater circuit and blowing the fuse)
Truthfully I don't do any welding, so I don't think I would be the one to offer the correct advise on this. Sorry
How did you know that it was the control wire and not the feed that had 0 v? Thanks for the excellent video!
+Sean Perkins this should help ruclips.net/video/kQz3g4HIWgs/видео.html
+Sean Perkins bcoz frist wire its 12 v,, is show up grown side switch,if both show 0v then u have power side swtich, put test light + battery test both wire one of test light will on,u now its feed anther wire not light come on its control side from pcm,, im right paul
Hello I was trying to check my egr modulator on my 2000 expedition, and when checking for voltage going to the plug i'm only getting 10.5 mv when plugged in on both sides and when unplugged i'm getting 10.5 mv on the right side and 12.5 mv on the left please advise. I think i may ahve a bad pcm.
Bo
This circuit is ground side controlled so that means this solenoid should have a voltage supply all the time with the key on. You have a supply side problem, not a PCM problem. Check all your fuses first.
I see you just purchased my eBook, Thank You! Go to Section 3 for more information about how these circuits work. Also check out Section 3 lecture videos on ScannerDanner Premium. It is free for 14 days.
Thanks I will check out these sections in the book and see what I come up with.
first off the p0171 code is caused by the tube that goes to the pcv valve and is split and collapsed. it is not where the little filter is, it is where your hand is when you are pointing to the dpfe and related circuitry.
+Brian Weiberg this video was primarily about the evr control fault not the lean exhaust code
+ScannerDanner my bad, I should have paid closer attention. I don't like "cold air" intakes either, people put them on and then drive their car to my garage wondering why the MIL is on...
+Brian Weiberg no problem! And I agree 100% about the cold air intakes
do you have a web page like ERICK THE CAR GUY?
Hey, can you tell me, I am getting an insufficient flow to EGR code (can't remember exact code #). It looks brand new. I saw a few other videos of people with the same problem, and the problem was solved when they replaced the DPFE sensor. Could this be the only problem?
Would a huge vacuum leak also cause this code?
not this code
@@ScannerDanner oof. I did have a intake plenum gasket leak which caused misfire on cyl 1. Changing all the sensors for peace of mind. Will further test to confirm complete functionality. Thank you for sharing!
@@gmax341 no problem. Do the tests I've shown in this video. I'll help further if you need it.
@@ScannerDanner Awesome! Just got done and all systems are a go! ST-Fuel trims are bouncing around 0.0%. My original metal DPFE seemed dead with the DMM test and the other solenoids seemed electronically fine, Will keep them as spares. Sadly, I ended up breaking my EGR tube when trying to install the new DPFE sensor. Too far rusted. I own a 96 Ford E150 conversion van with a 5.8l V8, 351W I think. Its not easy with the tight spaces to work on that thing. I am hoping this will be the last time I take that dog house out.
One last question if I may. My last issue, is tackling the ABS system. Just purchased a Innova 5610 scanner and tried to get ABS scan/readout but it was not able to communicate with that system. Might end up returning it and getting a different scanner maybe. Changed all three wheel sensors and from time to time, I do hear the abs motor kick on briefly when I KOE-Off. I wish to accomplish two things. Verify speed sensors and test motor/break-bleed. Do I need specific tools for that?
both hoses blew off my dpfe ! Why ? and it melted like crazy as If it blew up . still drives tho
restricted cat
No, just my site where I sell my eBook. I am not as computer savvy as my friend Eric is :-(
thats one heck of a hotrod! LOL
Que lindo Scanner.
Pablo, unfortunately I do not speak Spanish. I see you commenting a lot and without using Google translate I have no idea what you are saying. Sorry my friend
Who are the idiots that thumbed down this video... Straight gold.
There are two types:
1. The crowd looking for a 3 minute silver bullet fix video, that all they want is to fix their car without doing any testing (parts changers)
2. Those in my field who hate that I am educating the public. They feel I'm taking jobs away from them.
Yes, those groups would make sense. Can't make everyone happy in this world. These videos are amazing. Thanks for making them.
Hey good mornin, first I wanna tell you thank you, your videos have helped me so much. If yo see this comment, can you please help me? This is the situation:
In my Ford Escape 3.0, The control wire from the PCM, the One that has to ground and get 0 voltaje, after I start the Truck, it keeps the voltage and even it rises to 13.6 o 13.7 Volts, what can be happening? Thank you so much y hope you see this comment
Greetings from Mexico
nope, no vvt for my focus.. :(
Yup
when i back probe the dpfe i get 4.8v key on engine off.
2000 ford taurus
***** bad dpfe. im guessing there is a video about the supply voltage going right thru with no drop in voltage.
I cannot post the exact link here but search ScannerDanner d o t c o m
:-)
That's the fresh air inlet buddy. It won't set a lean code.
Incorrect, you should read up on it a bit, and how the PCV system works. I'm not bashing.
HI I HAVE 2001 MAZDA TRIBUTE I HAVE PO1409 I HAVE CLEAR IT COMES BACK I REPLACE EVS SELONOID AND DPFF AND ECU I STILL HAVE CODE ALSO ICANN IT HAVE INCONPLED EGR AND CATALIC CONVETER PLEASE HELP THIS STARTED SINCE I LEFT CAR SIT FOR 6 MONTHS I DROVE 4TO 6 TIME DROVE IT ERAISE IT CODES AND SAME PROBLEM PLEASE HELP DAN
A scan tool to read voltages would help a lot. You may have a bad connection those can be a mother to find. Have u even checked the valve and passages? 1409 is insufficient flow? I don't recall.
P1405
Terrible motor, have fun spending all that money just to drop a valve seat. should've got the zetec
Spanishbizarro please
I heard the fart